AXIAL RYFT BINDING ACCESS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- AXIAL RYFT BINDING ACCESS for those of us that don't want to take the cage and shocks off there is an 11 screw method I discovered. This is the video of that method. Please Like and Subscribe!
A couple notes - make sure you have good batteries in your controller and a fully charged Lipo. Also, don't touch the dang car after binding it for 5 seconds after you power it on. Just like a gyroscope on a drone Spectrum's Smart Telemetry and AVC Traction control and Smart ESC are super sensitive. So during that time it's calculating the space time continuum.
Battery plugged in. Car on. Hold down mode button for factory reset for 5 seconds and watch the ESC blink. Then push the little bind button, should blink fast orange, hold down bind button on controller and power button and then follow the instructions. Throttle pull. Release. Reverse push. Release. Controller wheel right, release. Left, release. Power off. Then power off your controller for good measure. Turn on controller. Turn on car. WAIT 5 SECONDS. Should be good to go.
Set your trim knobs at a neutral (center) position for bind.
Really hope this speeds up binding for you. can be done pretty quick even in the field.
Thanks for watching!
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Tapped a hole in the top lid of the case over the bind button. Put short servo lead extensions on all the channels and ran them out of the box. Can bind update or replace servos or anything and don't have to take all of them screws out anymore.
Absolutely! When I got this first one, have 2, I couldn't believe it took 9 screws to get to the receiver to bind. And I saw a lot of guys tearing the whole car from the top down instead of doing it this way and it looked like a hundred screws laying around, shocks off, just ridiculous. I wound up drilling a whole after I found this tiny little piece of rubber in the misc bin at home depot to plug it and keep it waterproof. Lowes and other hardware stores have things too of course. But I never thought of doing any lead extensions. Nice touch!
Love the Ryft videos , keep them coming. I eliminated the receiver box from the front lower chassis and placed my receiver in the fuel cell located in the rear of the vehicle, much easier to access
Doing something like that myself! Finally just got the 2 speed for one and going straight crawler but the other I'm still working on beefing it up to take full advantage of that 4s! (And later 6.) Thank you for subscribing!!!
@@redvikinghobbies the 4ws will be sick
@@norcalrc oh I'm just putting in the low and high gear. Now I gotta do 4 wheel steer? Lol Done! I'll get on it! Just got like 3 more builds to finish but I'll start finding the parts!
Awesome rig. I really like the cage. It looks beefy.
Just a friendly warning after having this thing so long... it's got too much power for that cage. If you invest in one of these grab an anti-sway bar, different tires, and think about Vitavon axle housings. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the walkthrough, and your are correct. This RC is not for beginner/novice but it did light up my 11 year olds eyes. She asked if it could go faster?
Yikes! You got a little speed demon on your hands. Maybe go get her a Felony!
I say.. 61km/h on 3s ( Skyrc GSM015 GPS checked) is not fast enough for her? Better get her an XO-1 then...
Your the man! Thanks so much bro I was so lost
I give up on the Spektrum setup, I'm going with something different on my Ryft!! Great video though!!
Since I put the one in my DX5 I haven't had problems. I'm waiting on my reef's micro to put in the 2 speed but I just cut out the top of the battery tray with a dremel for 4 top screw access. On my black one I'm snapping the cap off over the bind button and drilling a single hole. It's never gone get wet enough to matter so I'll put a piece of gorilla tape over it and if for some reason I do take a plunge I'll drop it to dry it out. I'm using it for hill shots and steep runs mostly.
@@redvikinghobbies yeah I literally am doing the same thing on the kit Ryft I just ordered. These are badass machines once they get the bugs worked out. Thanks for the reply, I subscribed to your channel
Awesome video. Subscribed
Thank you! It's greatly appreciated!
Thank you Bro!
Your refrigerator is doing that because there is a magnet in between the doors that let the board know that the door is closed it has lost polarity or slipped out of position
Try and use an external magnet and slide it on the inside edge of the door (try both) to see if the light goes out
Thanks. I'll try anything. They've been out 7 times during the warranty to fix it. They've replaced doors, harnesses, gaskets. Also, the doors have some kind of insulation in them that failed and they sink in and you get this gap (on the ice maker side) and it doesn't seat right. They replaced them and it happened again. The beeping eventually stops but you lose your lights. So you gotta unplug it and plug it back in. RC guys are loving the fridge talk lol! But then you get lights and the beeping is back. I got a service call in. But I'll try your method.
@@redvikinghobbies if they replaced the doors and it still does it then I’d say it’s a board issue
Still thinking about getting one of these.
I'd say now it's safe. If you're willing to spend some time in the forums or online and get the right parts and use the advice that some die hard RYFT fanatics put out there you're fine. As of now I'd confidently say the Vitavon sway bar and running first on 3s 50c would be the way to start and from there decide do you wanna cut for the bind button or drill a hole? Want to change axle housings? Do a 2 speed? Work on the diffs...etc. but a sway bar and 3s 50c you'll be good. And actually there are a lot of these for sale or trade right now from guys not as interested that truly wanted more stable like a Bomber selling and trading with little use so you could go that route too. It was frustrating at first because I got it like the week it came out. There wasn't much support. But the forums are loaded with great builds now.
9 screws. You can leave that brace on. Thank you to JJ's HOBBY POWER!
😊 You are welcome brother! We are all in this hobby to help each others out. 😉👍🏼
@@jjshobbypower9091 Agreed. As soon as I saw some folks taking the cage and shocks off I said there HAS to be an easier way. And I did originally try to bind it upside-down but that Spectrum system works like a gyroscope and didn't like that at all. Cheers!
@@redvikinghobbies Yes, I know what you mean. I bound mine with the DX5 Rugged when the Ryft is upside down, which works fine, until I played around with all the settings on the transmitter's screen I then realised the G-force values are wrong, so now I need to bind it again having the receiver completely horizontal, I will do it in the weekend and record another video for it. So much fun taking things apart all the time. Haha...
I would send you a picture but can't figure out how
@@ernestcoker6665 what do you mean?
Nice explanation there. You actually only need to unscrew the 2 screws on battery tray then the 3 screws on the underside and the receiver box will come off. Next is another 4 screws on the receiver box cover and that's it, in total 9 screws. I have binded the Ryft with my DX5 Rugged and so far it is still binded. I wonder if it is the compatibility of the receiver and DX3 transmitter. 🤔👍🏼
Son of a gun you're right. The ones for the protective brace can stay on. Hope people read your comment and pass it on!
Johnny sent me here to sub
Thanks Dylan!
Sent by Johnny too 👍 best be paying him 2 dollars
@@lyndonscott5312 Bahahaha! I'm done shelling out Vbucks for free 😆🤣
Hello what shocks you use? Thank you for answer
Been through a bunch. The set up now is a set of big bore prolines because I went aluminum with the axle housing and some other pieces so it's much heavier. My recommendation to anyone buying or upgrading their RYFT would be to add weight to it. The torque to weight ratio in that car is mismatched. I think a sway bar is absolutely necessary and so are changing out the tires. The hex hubs strip out ridiculously fast. It's not Axial's best offering. It's definitely one ya gotta toy with to see what works. But that's what I love about RC. I did run Desert Lizards, 2 sets upside-down in the rear for awhile but it was too stiff and it was still prone to roll. Best of luck to you and thanks for the question!
@@redvikinghobbies Thanks for the answer, I'm not really looking forward to all the modifications because in Europe all the parts are twice as expensive as in the USA 😭😭😭 and therefore I will only do the necessary modifications, but I was very interested in the shock absorbers
@@misokovalcik7621 Well I would definitely recommend the antisway bar then and to only run it on 3s. Take a look at the price on the shocks on the Losi Hammer Rey over there. Those may be a good fit and something I've considered. I have two RYFTs and one, the black one is stock with a sway bar and running these and has done great for straight shots and hill climbs. Still doesn't turn terrificly but much better than stock. 4pcs RC 2.2 Mud Slingers Tires Super Grip Crawler Tyres Height 124mm/4.88inch & Aluminium Alloy 2.2 Beadlock Wheels Rims Hex 12mm Black & Green Color a.co/d/dojAg5U
@@redvikinghobbies Well, you killed those wheels, they are real bombs, thank you for any advice, I want to ask, do you have the original engine or will you give something else for any advice, thank you, I have an absima sherpa, which is in the USA, rc rebellion, it's a great car, but what doesn't climb, he shoots it rift
@@misokovalcik7621 stock motors. Those 2200s with the 130 amp are beasts. A lot of people don't know how to change the punch setting on a Spektrum ESC but all the way up on a 10,000 mah 120c lipo the thing is ridiculous. Heck. Kevin Talbot broke his before he even took it outside because the RYFT is so light weight. I'm actually a fan of the stock offerings from Spektrum in an RTR. And their AVC works well depending on the user. The issue I have with spektrum hasn't been motors or ESC. It's batteries. Have some. Not a fan. Ridiculously expensive. When I burn out a motor on a 4s basher and up I go Castle. If it's 3s or below it's Hobbywing. If it's a crawler I use Holmes except for the SCX6. I use 3brc. And my drag motors and kit cars are mixed. Bunch or surpass and hobbyking and Rockstar and tamiya. But the RYFTs are at about 10 packs on the stock one and maybe 30 on the vitavon one and it's still stock. But I did increase the tooth count on the heavier aluminum one on both the pinion and spur to reduce the stress on the motor and make the vehicle more controllable. And it can run 4s. I don't because links break everytime but it'll stay planted. Originally it would just flip and spin.
Do I need to bind before my first run
No. Mine was bound out if the box. On the off chance you do, which I should've mentioned, there's a little binding plug that puts the esc/receiver in the bag that comes with the car. In case yours came unbound you'd just put that in the esc/receiver and it would recognize it's in bind mode and the transmitter/controller would be looking to bind. I'd have to check to see if there's a bind button on the controller but on most of these if they're not bound they'll blink. Let me look at the SLT2...(I should have this memorized by now) yeah, no bind button. So if for any reason it comes unbound just pull up the SLT2 calibration and go though those steps. Too many to list here but it's not difficult. Just need that little bind plug. But if my memory is correct if it's not bound it will be looking. But it should come bound. Here's the link if you have any issues...just a sec...
device.report/manual/1724040
@@redvikinghobbies thanks my was ready to go out the box but re did just to get familiar with it just in case in the future
There's a easier way that's the hard way
What is it?
Whats the easier way
@@johnnycharron2107 raise your hood remove the battery ok there is 2 screws take your utility knife and trim the bottom edge off all the way around to reveal the back 2 screws and there you go
@@johnnycharron2107 send me a message on messenger i send pics