Certain plastics can degrade over a few weeks after exposure to brake cleaner. Please report on if the plastic on the motherboards begin to show cracks and degradation or not after a month or so! I'd like to know if it is safe to use.
Immortal I’m with you man, being around these chemicals frequently calls for some PPE, brake cleaner is rather corrosive, it’ll eat the shit out of your lungs over time. Not to mention the amount of filth you can get out of a part too, that shit gets into your system and you can get really sick, really fast.
First off, love the content! Iv'e been trying to build new/used gaming pcs and here in Texas the market is terrible for used parts, even on ebay its brutal. but I have been doing hardware repair for well over a decade and here are my tips. 1.)Flux is cheap and helps the solder move into place better when even using the heat gun method. 2.)I've never used your cleaning methods but if you ever want to make an investment get a large wave-oscillating ultrasonic cleaner, Its amazing the amount of hardware you can repair with this alone! also on the cheap you can use a dishwasher. but the ultrasonic cleaner is the best method 3: next step from a heat gun is a re-flow gun, I have a 2n1 re-flow and solder (SMD rework station) bought of amazon and it works fine. also love using an oven or a toaster oven. this not only ensures even heating but allows you the space to do multiple parts at the same time. keep it going!
@18:20 -ish .. that chip looks like it's not seated properly. and i hope you use memtest to test the memory For video cards, esp. RX series cards, you can use SRB Polaris to edit the bios and force the ram frequencies to higher values and also increase memory timings, if the memory is unstable. Seriously man, buy some LIQUID FLUX and pour it/spread it around the edges of chips before you use the heat gun ... the flux is a mild acid which will go under the chip and attack oxides and crap that may be on the solder and will help the solder flow better (melt and reconnect better to metal pads on chip and circuit board) The way you do it now, it's just dumb luck, and temporary ... flux will not make it a definitive fix, but should increase your success rate. if you decide to use flux, start with lower temperature to give the flux time to attack the oxides, you don't want to burn/evaporate the flux in the first few seconds. Then gradually increase temp to your current setting.
@@bestbattle For the most part you can wash with small batteries like that connected as well, inadvisable, but you can, the main problem is if a 12V rail connects to a smaller one, like 5V, the 5V traces and components cant handle that kind of power, what TYC should be more clear at is to make sure all capacitors are discharged before trying it, as they can hold a charge for hours after.
I've done this many times and allowed them to dry for at least a week before reusing to make sure it's completely dry. I told my friends the same thing and they think I'm lying and ridiculous, lol.
PC part resurrection is so satisfying!!! uhmm, about the RAM resurrection, can you run some test like Memtest86 to really conclude those rams are working 100% same as GPU testing being done. Great video again! more videos like this! 🍻
Great content as always, I've managed to resurrect a few Intel motherboards and even got a free i7 3770 + Acer motherboard with 4 dimm slots working perfectly fine solely by giving it a good clean; with a GTX 1060 6gb and 4x4 DDR3 it plays Metro Exodus like a champ. :D
@18:15-18:20 the BIOS Chip seems like it needs to be pushed into the DIP - socket a little bit, might be the reason for no boot! (Asus B150). PIN 1 and 8 are lifted up the most, I don't really know if PIN 1 aka Chipselect is needed for normal BIOS operation, but I know for sure it's needed for BIOS Reprogramming. However PIN 8 is VCC and is crucial, since it is the main Supply Voltage for the Rom, without it connected properly, malfunction is guaranteed. The precise Timeframe of 15 Seconds from power on to auto power off, seems to be the period in which the Board tries to autodetect BIOS Flash Rom, RAM is not even initialized at this point, it turns off because of Bios detection timeout! Since u got the board second hand, it might also be the case, that someone exposed the board to an excessive physical shock, during which the BIOS chip might have popped out and someone plugged it in back the wrong way, so make sure to check the orientation as a last resort. Both the chip and the socket have an etched in mark, which is to be alligned. Sorry for the weird wording! Enjoying your Content a lot, Tech Yes City Gang! TYCG
Heatgun "fix" is usually only temporary. The cards will break again after a few weeks/months and everytime you heat it again this time gets shorter. At least that's what happened to a few of 9800GTX's that I tried it on.
@@gabrielecarbone8235 namely G92 and G80 based card didnt have 2d/3d switching, for desktop and had terrible idle power consumption of around 30W (lowest 8800-9800GT) to 40-45W (most of them), to 55W for 8800GTX. The only exception was 9800GT/9600GT green edition, they had around 20W in idle, those were one of the last G92 based cards in 2009. They have voltage lowered to 1 (from 1.10-1.15 original) So you cannot undervolt 9800GTX through software, you need do BIOS mod. If you set it so low, that card won't boot, you screwed, as it don't have 2d/3d modes, you need to change only one voltage for 3D. It's risky as hell. Would not risk it. You can underclocked it through software, I have it set to 350/500 for 2d use. (from 700/1000). It saves 5w in idle, because cannot undervolt it, which is sad. Would drop by 20W, if also voltage could be lowered to 0.90v.
@@warrax111 mh i usually test this way, I start with very low voltage and clocked bios and then proceed to overclock back with software to find a stable clock / voltage usually a bit lower than original but at 1v.
The re-soldering by heat gun works way better if you flux the components (or the entire PCB) that you are trying to re-flow. Invest in a bottle/can of flux.
The old 9800's were failure prone because the chip ran too hot for the new "lead free" solder that was introduced, it was a massive problem for a LOT of systems and GPU's, on laptops. The nVidia Go 7900 was another bitch to keep running.
Do you get them from carousell or directly from the miners? Seen a few of these mining cards but mostly from either guys who buy up the cards in bulk and list them or miners that want to sell the whole system.
@@poside Yeah, I buy from one of those. I am not sure whether this is common but make sure the seller re-flash it back to gaming VBIOS. My RX480 comes with a mining VBIOS and Brian trick to re-flash the VBIOS didn't work for me as I cannot find the correct VBIOS. I have to use a registry edit hack to fix it. Also, maybe this is just me who push my card too far but keep the VRAM to stock. Pretty sure that is how I kill my RX480. Especially with mining card which tuned to have lower core clock but higher memory clock than stock.
No freaking way! I was about to throw away a GTX 1050 because it would give no signal. Tried the oven and then the heat gun method and still would not work until I watched the video and decided to try and use the DVI output, and it lives!! Thanks Brian, keep them great videos coming.
I really enjoyed this video. Thanks for putting it together. Seeing those components come back to life is always a good time. Hearing you read the fan letters was also great to hear. Makes me proud to be a loyal viewer of the channel. You too have inspired me to get into the pc re-selling business. Take care, Sincerely, Richard from the U.S.
@@Krisztian5HUN Couldn't agree more... Heatgunning is for re-balling a ps3 chip or something, not capacitors that die 3 weeks later after heat treatment....
The man's on a roll! Keep cranking the awesome content. Let me once again thank you for the inspiration - I know you do not work with laptops as much(this is the first video I am watching you work with laptops) but watching your videos - especially ones like these and the parts hunt - inspired me to work on an old Thinkpad W510 with i7-720qm and Nvidia GPU that kept overheating (almost 100C in HWInfo without any programs running) and shutting down. Opened it up completely, cleaned up the dust and old crappy thermal paste, re-applied some good old TX-4 and my daughter has a great working laptop now that rarely goes over 70C and flies through all the stress tests (Prime95, Intel XTU, etc.) without breaking a sweat!! 😎Keep spreading the Tech Yes Love!! 👍👍
So that hot blow gun method is referred to a rework (basically your remelting the soldering points) also on a side note solder melting points range from 90c to 450c. Always learn something new when I watch your content!!! Cheers from So Cal USA!!!
6:10 The one with the blown HDMI port, have you tried the DP outputs on it? DP uses an almost completely different circuit on the GPU output side, so there is a good chance that if VGA works DP should as well.
@Serial Thrilla DVI and HDMI are electrically compatible, so both are probably coming from the same silicon block, but DP uses different electrical signaling, so it might go to a different set of output transistors on the GPU.
You are a smart guy, must have tried too, but is Very common to the hdmi die... i bought a 960 for cheap because the hdmi was dead, but the display port was ok (and I'm using it with an adapter now)
Fellow Aussie here (N.S.W), got a few questions to ask. 1) Why Brake Clean specifically? Price? Availability? Larger capacity than most cans of electronics cleaner? 2) Are you flipping the AM3 970 board? I'm looking for one to drop a loose FX 6300 in I have laying around and finding good mobo's for a decent price that suit FX processors is really difficult now.
I worked in electronics and the heat gun on to the chips is the best way to make the solder underneath connect. Sometimes there can be voids where bubbles of air in the solder paste make a weak connection. We used to xray a final product and if there was a void heat gun then check and it would be perfect.
"This is a big reason why I'm not big on laptops personally, and that is we've got GPU CPU RAM all on the same motherboard" Totally 100% agree, I have 3 PC, and only 1 Laptops.
Yeah cause my RAM GPU and storage are all in different parts of my room, my pc still runs fine! Totally not all on the same motherboard inside my case.
@@Psyrecx And excessive price tag. I love Clevo, but find them too plastic, and the fans are whiny. My old M670SRU had such a whiny CPU fan it was like a BANSHEE.
This is awesome showing how to resurrect some cards. If you ever want to upgrade in the future with the tools. Check out the Hakko bottom heaters and PCB vises. At work, these things really speed up the time without burning up the parts and PCBs. The new stuff is kind of expensive but if you can find it second hand you could save some cash. The bottom heater really helps with layered boards with large ground plaining or large BGA's. At work we use ether Weller or Hakko and this stuff works 3 shifts a day 6 days a week. We put these tools threw hell and they just keep working, though the solder tips if miss used will only last a week but if you know how to use them they will last a few months. I've gotten a medium size Hakko 936 solder tip to last 4 months.
I hope you won't sell these cards! As an electrical engineer I can say that without applying BGA flux, they most likely wont last very long. reflowing BGA Chips is not that easy. A small oven works better, but only if you apply flux. For private use, heat gunning (or baking) them without flux is totally fine, but just don't expect them to work over time. It really is a gamble. I've done this (like you, without flux) to an R9 280X, worked great for over a year, but then it failed again. For some graphics chips it also won't work, because the die itself is degraded. A good example are Radeon HD6xxx and GeForce 8xxx cards. They have a VERY high rate at coming back to life, but they will fail again after a bit of thermal cycling. This method is great for extracting an extra 6-24 months of the GPU, for example to wait for the next generation, or for fun, but NOT for selling those. If you want to sell them, use flux, so the fix will last. Also, it is a good idea to check vcore with a multimeter before trying this. if Vcore is not even present, this won't fix it, or it will only work for a few days (because heating capacitors can revive them for a few days)
I have a dead AMD R9 270X (MSI, Twin Frozr) that gives signal as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter" but when I try to install the video driver, I'm stuck with a permanent black screen (tryed a lot of version + bios reflash and still nope). Gotta try the heat method directly on the PCB and hope it will work. Thank you for your videos man👍 really helpful
for laptops, try putting them in the oven 200 degrees C for 10 min, if there are plastic parts cover them with aluminum foil. Worked for a laptop where the GPU got loose. Got it for free 30 min work :) Just make sure you let it cool down be4 you move it.
21:00 - I'll do it for you. Not a problem, even flash it for you. Have the tools and parts, just send it! Also, don't be afraid to keep the heat going on those parts, just don't burn them.... Happy to fix ya laptops too, no need to replace whole board, unless CPU dead or dying. Cheers Bry, luv ya content.
Greetings from Romania, Bryan! I can attest the DVI thingy on the HD7950 as well - I have a older card (7870 OC, the Gigabyte kind) that does the same thing - it will cut out on standard HDMI, but work absolutely fine on a DVI to HDMI adapter. P55 machine by the way, the kind that you loved - GB P55A-UD3 + i7 860.
keep going what you're doing man. You inspire me into building my first PC up to making money from it. I make more with PC and laptop repair as more people are looking into getting the hardware fix during this pandemic as they work more at home. Thanks for the vid man.
Is there any particular kind of brake fluid I should avoid? loving this segment of channel it's helped me tweak my method of brining back a few dead cards including a unique slomo bluescreening Nvidia Titan X GPU. Keep up the good work stay safe.
aside from the heat gun.. issues.. i wouldn't put carb cleaner on electronics mainly because it's unnecessary. i use the good old dishwasher along with the dishes and ->THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT
Being someone who deals with refurbing laptops any of your business oriented laptops like Lenovo ThinkPads and Dell latitudes are super easy to work on and repair even the screens. Also some times unplugging the cmos and built in battery for a couple days have saved some of the ThinkPads I've had that boot loop. Also the market for parts from those type of laptops from the screen to keyboad have a pretty good resale on ebay and the like.
whoahhh!! I have so many dead laptops here. I hope the contact cleaner and heat gun helps me to fix all or maybe some. very interesting! Thanks to this video.
You didn’t ask me but I won’t let that stop me from replying. The idea is that either through manufacturing defect or thermal stress during usage the solder balls that attach the physical chip to the board become disconnected. Sometimes the chip ‘floats’ off the solder ball entirely and sometimes it’s just sorta on and off so you can get intermittent failures. The heat gun partially melts the solder balls and allows thE chip to sorta ‘float’ back into place, reconnecting them. If you want to know more, look up “reflowing”
its not a permanend fix though. more often than not he solder balls will fracture again. Honestly I love TechYesCity but i would not recommend this as a "fix" method unless you plan to keep the hardware for the rest of its days. During the xbox 360 days many sellers pulled scams by heat gunning xbox 360s
Loving your clear, concise content Brian!. So much so that "and with that aside" has now crept into my regular vocab. Not sure about today's "pew pew pew" though 😂 Heat gun & oven bake methods have ressurected plenty for me also. Thanks for your generosity ... "peace out for now" ✌
Thanks Buddy. I´m one passionated PC-Builder for decades now. But never dissambled Graphics cards till yet. Now I´ve got the bite to do it´s. Got here´s one damaged AMD Radeon VII Card, with faulty RAM-DAC. No signal-black screen. BIOS Warning sounds =1x long peep and 3x Short ones! Should I´ll RISK my warranty, trying to fix her by cleaning!? Cuz still remains 5 months till it´s ENDS Or do you mind If I´ll should intead send back to RMA=? We all know it´s reference Design card. The Manufacterer was MSI. So the damage just occuered on the last days. I´ve still using 2 others Rigs. That´s card isn´t affects me so bad. But I´ve really loved her. Even wrote VII in red letters on the side and painted the fans inner circle in red too!!
Bryan you really open my eyes on second hand PC parts. I used to think that new parts must be really good due to its price. But watching your video, hey you can play a video game in 1080p with second hand parts, and the hunting for it, is an experience. Keep up your great job mate, my best wishes for you and family!
Well new parts are still worth (usually) what they cost, I mean you dont have to spend ANY time tech yes lovin' a new motherboard or RAM lol. Buying new is also it's own experience, because then YOU are also still the one to choose how it looks and all.
Great video as always, keep the good work. I have been having issues fixing a family member's laptop, it's an old Samsung. For some reason the desktop icons keep flashing, and if i press the right mouse button they apear, if i press the left button they disapear. It even started pasting the days date on a document for no reason. It reduces the sound when playing videos to 0 and keps refreshing the webpages. Initially I thought it could be the keyboard so I unplugged it and used an external one, problem persisted. Then I thought it could be software so I intalled win10, Win8, Win7 and even linux, but the problems persist. Then I started thinking it could be a problem with the graphics chip (the pc was overheating before I got my hands on it, so it might be shorting) but that would cost way to much to fix it, it it really is that. Do you happen to have any idea what could be? Also the problems seem to be worse when the temperatures are higher.
USE MAF CLEANER NOT BREAK CLEANER!! ALSO WHEN YOU HEAT UP ELECTRONICS YOU WANT TO HAVE THEM AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE. THAT WAY THE COMPONENTS DON'T SHIFT AS THE SOLDER MELTS...
Had a gtx 770 from msi. I had the faulty driver error from windows. Gpu application shut off when the gpu loaded up. I opened up the gpu and cleaned it up. Now it works perfectly. I don't no for how long.
You're the only guy I know who'd put a motherboard on the wall rather than a picture frame or certificate. Guess someone can give you a moose head, yeah but I'd imagine that would be too big. Motherboard fits you. Please don't staple it on your shirt with LEDs. You're a great tech to watch!
ASKED for GOOD TIPS, try puting some soldering flux smeared on the soldering pins and legs of cpu dram etc before applying the Heat gun resulting in low heat remelt and connection of DRY Joints and connections,Works a treat Brother !
19:36 my friend got the same situation and my solution was bring it to istc vietnam( they working on rma and repairing msi products in vn), they just need to replace a capacitor on the vrm and everything was good to go
Lead free solder has a lot to answer for, also have you tried putting liberal amounts of gel flux on the boards before you heat gun them. imho this is the best way
Hey man since you have nothing to lose try the oven method on the cards that didn't come back. Preheat a oven to 205°C~210°C put the card in and set a timer for 10mins. Turn off the oven and let it naturally cool inside the oven. Would be a cool video :D I brought a Wifi card back to life using this method. Be careful with plastic. Many plastics start melting at this temperature but PCB manufactures usually use plastics with a higher melting temperature so they can solder the components that have plastic without melting them. @Instead of aluminium foil you can use MB spacers to raise the cards out of the ground.
The dead cards are good for HDMI ports for other cards. All cards have different profile ports. EVGA are proprietary. Does take a serious iron to get them off though. 7 layer board? If you can get them off in perfect shape they sell for $15 each on Ebay
In all likelihood you're actually just forcing the die to realign with the substrate in most cases. I don't think you're reaching temperatures that would melt the lead-free solder under the chip, if you would then you'd see the chip hover over the pcb (if flat) or just misaligned completely when angled like you showed in the video. This type of fix is great if you get hosed with a gpu (so you can resell it the the next unlucky sod) but i wouldn't use it in a build especially if you offer any kind of warranty. I've had cases where the gpu would die again after just a few hours but also had situations where the gpu worked fine for at least a year. I'm curious about the feedback you get with those, would love an update on that. Love your content, been a long time viewer :)
I suspect the hdmi issues can be 1 of 2 things.. someone has either fucked around in window or bio and set vga/dvi as primary.. second issue is the port has failed requiring replacement or it has been zapped and anything that sits behind the port is gone.. i would advise convertors on a cable as to run them on the ports (whilst can be done) can introduce excess on the pcb.. I also suspect the lack of use of a strain relief cable most likely caused damages the hdmi port..
Some of the cheaper Gigabyte boards have the silkscreen, traces and pads for dual BIOS but only come with one chip. The dual BIOS boards are supposed to be able to work even with one chip removed. You might have to desolder, format, flash and resolder this one or order a blank or preflashed chip to fix it. You can also use a programmer with a test clip (so no desoldering) but I find those extremely unreliable and frustrating. Based on what I've seen I'm confident that you can learn to do hot air soldering in no time. Don't even think of using an iron even though it's possible to do so. Feel free to ask for equipment recommendations.
I love this kind of fixing content. You can try to do the same heatgun method to the laptop motherboard, I mean you got nothing to lose. It'll be cool if it works
I love the channel. Just one note. You should try to shield caps on the graphics card. They don't like heat at all. Since inside is electrolyte and you are cooking it with heat gun. Maybe wrap them with aluminium foil somehow. Keep up the great job you are doing. Also great video editing.
you could always keep some surface mount paste on hand for soldering you just gotta lay the stuff on the contacts insert the chip and heat it up and it should bond right to it.
You can probably fix the card with the memory issue if it is a cold solder joint. Get out the solder melting point and use no clean flux in the oven at that temperature. Build something to suspend the boards in the air in the oven.
Sometimes the Graphics Card's BIOS can corrupt and it may either just not display an output or behave weirdly in windows like not being able to run 3d work loads. No amount of heat gun and cleaning can fix this, however it is very easy to reprogram the bios from windows using a tool like NVflash (for nvidia cards) and ATIFlash (For amd). You just need to have the card in the PC and working video output via integrated graphics or another card. As long as device manager detects it, it might detect it as a Microsoft basic display adaptor or as the actual model, but it will likely say "windows has stopped this device code 43". If it shows up in device manager, it should be visible to NV/ATI flash, and it should be able to reprogram the bios. If you can't get it detected in NV/ATI flash it might be possible to use a hardware re-programmer, they are cheap £10 and work for basically every card ever, these use a peg like clip to attach to the bios chip (provided you can find it). A hardware re-programmer should always work and if it doesn't the bios chip is ruined or the reprogramming software doesn't know how to talk to it, in the former case it might be possible to buy a new SPI flash chip, to bring the card back, very simple SMD Soldiering. It is also I would say more likely that the vrm or other power delivery/supporting voltage rail has failed on the card rather than the core just dying. These fails can vary wildly from super easy to fix if you know what you're looking for to, you now have some sand instead of a GPU. Any VRM that directly powers something in the core, can kill the the core if it fails, depending on how it fails and depending on the GPU core. Also in this sort of failure scenario the heat gun won't do anything, except maybe kill the core if it survived the vrm failing. Yes the Heat Gun Method works, obviously it did 3 times in this video, but its not regarded as a good first response. It can fix the card for maybe forever or maybe only a few hours of power on time. What it does is potentially reestablish FCBGA connections between the Silicon GPU Die and the GPU Substrate, the green package the die is attached to. The substrate is then attached to the graphics card's PCB. It is extremely unlikely the substrate BGA disconnects the Substrate from the PCB, and in this case it must be heated to lead free soldier reflow temperatures which are between 240-250c, I'm pretty sure you're not using the heat gun at that temperature because in 8 minutes of blasting the cards, components would have fallen off the back at that temperature. In comparison FCBGA will reflow at 180c, it is luck that any broken connections are re established, although no matter the temperature they are likely to be poor connections that will fail again. FCBGA breaks down due to the gpu core going from 40c idle to 70-80c load very quickly, the change in temperature causes expansion and contraction in the FCBGA connections, which can lead to them breaking eventually. My troubleshooting recommendation: 1. - If you don't know how it died, use a multi-meter to check for short circuits between the 12 volt rails (pcie slot and 6/8 pin connectors) and ground, also check for short circuits between 12 volts and the GPU's Vcore output this is easy to check by probing an inductor which is part of the Vcore VRM. Checking for short circuits between Vcore and Ground is very difficult because, when a GPU core is turned off it has a very low resistance less than 1 ohms, or even less than 0.5 ohms. This step is only done to prevent fire or unnecessary damage to the GPU core. 2. - If its clear of short circuits, try booting it. If you get no image, try with another card and see if it shows up in device manager, if it does and it says "windows stopped this device (code 43)" or something to that effect, try a bios flash, if flashing the BIOS doesnt work proceed with steps 3 and 4. 3. - If the card is a no show in device manager, using the multi meter check if the two major power rails are present for the card to operate, Vcore & Vmem. This can be checked by probing the an inductor (the non switching side of them) which is part of the Vcore or Vmem VRM. If you have no voltage on either or both of these then that's why the card doesn't work. Finding out why they aren't present beyond that is more complicated, but generally if both are present then every other voltage rail is present. 4. - If the two major rails are present and it doesn't show up in task manager OR bios flash didn't work, try the heat gun, you have nothing to lose now. I just thought I'd share my experiences repairing graphics cards with you, I've only attempted repairing 4 cards but had 100% success rate; Sapphire RX 480 Nitro+ number 1: had a corrupted BIOS. Sapphire RX 480 Nitro+ number 2: had burnt out a transistor that controlled the fans, this was shorting out 12 volts to ground, causing the power supply to trip over current protection, removing the transistor got the card to work, just not without fan power anymore. Plait GTX 1070: Had blown a fuse between the Vcore VRM and PCIE 12 volts, this was due to a failed power stage short circuiting 12 volts to the core and to ground. Removing the dead power stage removed the short circuit. Jumping the fuse with a wire allowed the card to work, however now as a 7 phase instead of an 8. the 1070 also had an unrelated issue of a voltage signal which told the Vmem and Vcore vrms to start, was intermittent. This was fixed by removing the chip that sent the signal and hard wiring it to always turn the vrm's on. Gigabyte GTX 1080 ti OC: Had completely exploded its Vcore vrm, the 1070 had just failed and blown the fuse, the 1080 ti didn't have fuses which allowed the vrm to set on fire burning the pcb. Because the PCB was burnt, many layers were now shorted together, and repairing the Vcore vrm is impossible. The burnt pcb material was cut out using a dremel machining bit, until there were no short circuits. The Vcore vrm I replaced by an E power or zombie modification, by which you replace the Vcore VRM with an external vrm which is soldiered to the output of the original Vcore vrm. This modification requires the Vcore vrm's voltage control be removed, so it doesn't shut down the card when it says there is an error with the vrm. It also requires that the card is power modded, by which the INA 3221 power monitoring chip thinks its pulling more power that its actually reading, the Vcore vrm is gone, so its not reading a power draw high enough, this puts the card into safe mod, which locks the core clock to 300 mhz, same as if you use too much liquid metal or short out the shut resistors to increase the power limit, this 1080 ti now thinks its pulling 18% of TDP all the time no matter the load condition. Just a disclaimer, I would not feel comfortable reselling the 1070 or 1080 ti (not that I plan to), I also do not think anyone would buy the 1080 ti in particular, due to it now occupying 5 PCIE slots and requiring 4 power connectors, both Nvidia cards had at some point received 12 volts directly to the gpu core, this is terrible for the core, and would outright kill it in a majority of cases, I got very lucky here. As such the life time of these cards has probably been greatly reduced. Also the modifications to both are some what questionable from an electrical safety standpoint. The RX 480 with the burnt out fan power circuit, I was be comfortable reselling, as 1. I did, and 2. the circuit damaged was disconnected from any power, so is not electrically questionable, it just required its fans be power externally.
Great video, great work with the GPUs. Can WD40 be used as well for cleaning? And if I have a heat gun with temperature what should it be set to if you know? Keep up the good work. Love you Yes man! :)
Should invest in a board preheater and hot air station for permanent repair. It's not really that expensive and both things are quite useful for a lot of things. Plenty of chinese preheaters available, anything that can get a stable 150c+ and has enough room (they are usually less than $120, some are more fancy that have their own K sensor probes). Hot air station is a very nice thing to have and is quite the investment, I like the Quick 861DW but there is also the cheaper version Atten ST-862D. Obviously you'll need stencils of different pitches, solder balls, and a decent iron as well (and obviously good flux that likes to run). I'd like to see some genuine repairs, that'd be a good change of pace compared to a lot of other tech channels. And genuine repairs aren't even that difficult to accomplish, so there isn't much of an excuse!
There is a very common but also very obscure issue on some lenovo models... Is a bug that wears down the bios flash chip with the constant writing of system logs. If you have the tools, try replacing the bios chip. You will need to pull out the current bios from the chip and burn it to a new chip. There are flash programmers that are dirt cheap that you can use to do this (the one based in the ch341 works perfect). You can buy both the programmer and the flash chip on aliexpress. Alternatively, you can recycle a flash chip from other motherboard and get the programmer though amazon or ebay.
i have a thing for white PCB videocards. they are looking amazing! So my favorite pc part refurb was HOF GTX 780TI!!! oh, Brian! What was the second spray after brake cleaner...? Looking forward to get 980Ti asus Strix to get into working order - currently it has an issue with resolution higher than 1024x768 - it starts to show artefacts.
Brian, I think buying a 10 or 20 litee can of brake cleaner and a refillable spray pump is way more economical for you. Those little aerosol cans are empty in no time.
You can always use a 'DVI to HDMI' cable when the HDMI port on the video card is not working. That gives you a better output and also transmits audio (if you are connecting it to a TV for example). These cables are also cheap.
If janky methods don't work, they get put in the YES TAIWAN box for Computex 2021!
is r7 370 still usable in late 2020
Certain plastics can degrade over a few weeks after exposure to brake cleaner. Please report on if the plastic on the motherboards begin to show cracks and degradation or not after a month or so! I'd like to know if it is safe to use.
@@1NIGHTMAREGAMER no
Yeah man hopefully that one will be going ahead
Immortal I’m with you man, being around these chemicals frequently calls for some PPE, brake cleaner is rather corrosive, it’ll eat the shit out of your lungs over time.
Not to mention the amount of filth you can get out of a part too, that shit gets into your system and you can get really sick, really fast.
First off, love the content! Iv'e been trying to build new/used gaming pcs and here in Texas the market is terrible for used parts, even on ebay its brutal. but I have been doing hardware repair for well over a decade and here are my tips.
1.)Flux is cheap and helps the solder move into place better when even using the heat gun method.
2.)I've never used your cleaning methods but if you ever want to make an investment get a large wave-oscillating ultrasonic cleaner, Its amazing the amount of hardware you can repair with this alone! also on the cheap you can use a dishwasher. but the ultrasonic cleaner is the best method
3: next step from a heat gun is a re-flow gun, I have a 2n1 re-flow and solder (SMD rework station) bought of amazon and it works fine. also love using an oven or a toaster oven. this not only ensures even heating but allows you the space to do multiple parts at the same time.
keep it going!
yah he needs to invest on those equipments u just mentioned. well i guess hes a vlogger, not a Board Level Technician
Great points thanks.
Good timing, I just bought ddr3 ram today and it wouldn't boot into windows.
Both sticks work now
@18:20 -ish .. that chip looks like it's not seated properly. and i hope you use memtest to test the memory
For video cards, esp. RX series cards, you can use SRB Polaris to edit the bios and force the ram frequencies to higher values and also increase memory timings, if the memory is unstable.
Seriously man, buy some LIQUID FLUX and pour it/spread it around the edges of chips before you use the heat gun ... the flux is a mild acid which will go under the chip and attack oxides and crap that may be on the solder and will help the solder flow better (melt and reconnect better to metal pads on chip and circuit board)
The way you do it now, it's just dumb luck, and temporary ... flux will not make it a definitive fix, but should increase your success rate.
if you decide to use flux, start with lower temperature to give the flux time to attack the oxides, you don't want to burn/evaporate the flux in the first few seconds. Then gradually increase temp to your current setting.
them: you can't wash electronics with water and soap!
tech yes city: haha RAM go squeak squeak
You can wash any electronic device. You just need it not have any voltage through it (like BIOS battery) and to dry it.
Washes part with water all the time on this channel.
th-cam.com/users/BudgetBuildsOfficial
@@bestbattle For the most part you can wash with small batteries like that connected as well, inadvisable, but you can, the main problem is if a 12V rail connects to a smaller one, like 5V, the 5V traces and components cant handle that kind of power, what TYC should be more clear at is to make sure all capacitors are discharged before trying it, as they can hold a charge for hours after.
I've done this many times and allowed them to dry for at least a week before reusing to make sure it's completely dry. I told my friends the same thing and they think I'm lying and ridiculous, lol.
Pft my old PC was submerged in flood water for two days. Cleaned it up with some rubbing alcohol and wd-40. Worked no problem for another 12 years.
TYC: Repairing laptops?
Electronics repair school: Let me introduce to you...
Louis Rossman can come too.
PC part resurrection is so satisfying!!!
uhmm, about the RAM resurrection, can you run some test like Memtest86 to really conclude those rams are working 100% same as GPU testing being done.
Great video again! more videos like this! 🍻
Great content as always, I've managed to resurrect a few Intel motherboards and even got a free i7 3770 + Acer motherboard with 4 dimm slots working perfectly fine solely by giving it a good clean; with a GTX 1060 6gb and 4x4 DDR3 it plays Metro Exodus like a champ. :D
Bryan the builder... ♪ Can YES Fix it? ♪ Bryan the builder... ♪ YES he can! ♪♪
Petition to make this the Aussie theme song for " Bryan the builder"
Pretty much any Bryan with a "y" is a straight G . Just saying ;D
Just make sure you dont see Ralph “Wreck It” on what Brian builds and fixes!🤪
@18:15-18:20 the BIOS Chip seems like it needs to be pushed into the DIP - socket a little bit, might be the reason for no boot! (Asus B150). PIN 1 and 8 are lifted up the most, I don't really know if PIN 1 aka Chipselect is needed for normal BIOS operation, but I know for sure it's needed for BIOS Reprogramming. However PIN 8 is VCC and is crucial, since it is the main Supply Voltage for the Rom, without it connected properly, malfunction is guaranteed.
The precise Timeframe of 15 Seconds from power on to auto power off, seems to be the period in which the Board tries to autodetect BIOS Flash Rom, RAM is not even initialized at this point, it turns off because of Bios detection timeout!
Since u got the board second hand, it might also be the case, that someone exposed the board to an excessive physical shock, during which the BIOS chip might have popped out and someone plugged it in back the wrong way, so make sure to check the orientation as a last resort. Both the chip and the socket have an etched in mark, which is to be alligned. Sorry for the weird wording!
Enjoying your Content a lot, Tech Yes City Gang! TYCG
Noticed that too
It should be possible to pull that bios chip out with pliers and put it back in
@@MarshallSambell you could also desolder it and put it in the first slot really easily, you don't even need hot air : )
Can YES FIX IT
YES
WRITTEN AND DIRECTED BY GEORGE LUCAS
YES!!!!!!
that was so funny hhahahhahah!
That break clean will eat your hands super quick. I recommend wearing gloves.
Heatgun "fix" is usually only temporary. The cards will break again after a few weeks/months and everytime you heat it again this time gets shorter.
At least that's what happened to a few of 9800GTX's that I tried it on.
If you undervolt and underclock you can usually save them for desktop use
@@gabrielecarbone8235 namely G92 and G80 based card didnt have 2d/3d switching, for desktop and had terrible idle power consumption of around 30W (lowest 8800-9800GT) to 40-45W (most of them), to 55W for 8800GTX. The only exception was 9800GT/9600GT green edition, they had around 20W in idle, those were one of the last G92 based cards in 2009. They have voltage lowered to 1 (from 1.10-1.15 original)
So you cannot undervolt 9800GTX through software, you need do BIOS mod. If you set it so low, that card won't boot, you screwed, as it don't have 2d/3d modes, you need to change only one voltage for 3D. It's risky as hell. Would not risk it. You can underclocked it through software, I have it set to 350/500 for 2d use. (from 700/1000). It saves 5w in idle, because cannot undervolt it, which is sad. Would drop by 20W, if also voltage could be lowered to 0.90v.
@@warrax111 mh i usually test this way, I start with very low voltage and clocked bios and then proceed to overclock back with software to find a stable clock / voltage usually a bit lower than original but at 1v.
The re-soldering by heat gun works way better if you flux the components (or the entire PCB) that you are trying to re-flow. Invest in a bottle/can of flux.
The old 9800's were failure prone because the chip ran too hot for the new "lead free" solder that was introduced, it was a massive problem for a LOT of systems and GPU's, on laptops. The nVidia Go 7900 was another bitch to keep running.
Dang, I was about to go to sleep and I see a new Tech Yes City video posted lol.
Subscriber for 4 years. This channel has gotten me through tough times. Tech Yes City forever!
I did some parts hunt in Singapore (I live here). A lot of ex mining Polaris card and GTX 1070 at good value.
where i can get it? did they sell them online?
Do you get them from carousell or directly from the miners?
Seen a few of these mining cards but mostly from either guys who buy up the cards in bulk and list them or miners that want to sell the whole system.
@@poside Yeah, I buy from one of those. I am not sure whether this is common but make sure the seller re-flash it back to gaming VBIOS. My RX480 comes with a mining VBIOS and Brian trick to re-flash the VBIOS didn't work for me as I cannot find the correct VBIOS. I have to use a registry edit hack to fix it. Also, maybe this is just me who push my card too far but keep the VRAM to stock. Pretty sure that is how I kill my RX480. Especially with mining card which tuned to have lower core clock but higher memory clock than stock.
@@kaitoharrison872 just find a techpowerup vbios that fits the description of your card
No freaking way! I was about to throw away a GTX 1050 because it would give no signal. Tried the oven and then the heat gun method and still would not work until I watched the video and decided to try and use the DVI output, and it lives!! Thanks Brian, keep them great videos coming.
I really enjoyed this video. Thanks for putting it together. Seeing those components come back to life is always a good time. Hearing you read the fan letters was also great to hear. Makes me proud to be a loyal viewer of the channel. You too have inspired me to get into the pc re-selling business. Take care, Sincerely, Richard from the U.S.
Geez! "Heat-gunning" everything. *Cries in Louis Rossmann*
@Martin M yes this is not a fix only a temp. solution. Selling zombie cards is a huge no no!
@@Krisztian5HUN Couldn't agree more... Heatgunning is for re-balling a ps3 chip or something, not capacitors that die 3 weeks later after heat treatment....
The man's on a roll! Keep cranking the awesome content. Let me once again thank you for the inspiration - I know you do not work with laptops as much(this is the first video I am watching you work with laptops) but watching your videos - especially ones like these and the parts hunt - inspired me to work on an old Thinkpad W510 with i7-720qm and Nvidia GPU that kept overheating (almost 100C in HWInfo without any programs running) and shutting down. Opened it up completely, cleaned up the dust and old crappy thermal paste, re-applied some good old TX-4 and my daughter has a great working laptop now that rarely goes over 70C and flies through all the stress tests (Prime95, Intel XTU, etc.) without breaking a sweat!! 😎Keep spreading the Tech Yes Love!! 👍👍
So that hot blow gun method is referred to a rework (basically your remelting the soldering points) also on a side note solder melting points range from 90c to 450c. Always learn something new when I watch your content!!! Cheers from So Cal USA!!!
Dear Ben,
“Spellcheck.”
Love,
The Internet
Techy ass loving xD
This.
20:09 - the view from your balcony is amazing
I'm so glad the HOF card came back to life! As you were saying at the end of the video as well. What an awesome save!
Love the work man!!! Stay safe and keep on tech yes loving! We love youuuuuu
6:10 The one with the blown HDMI port, have you tried the DP outputs on it? DP uses an almost completely different circuit on the GPU output side, so there is a good chance that if VGA works DP should as well.
@Serial Thrilla DVI and HDMI are electrically compatible, so both are probably coming from the same silicon block, but DP uses different electrical signaling, so it might go to a different set of output transistors on the GPU.
Would love to see flux before the heat gun to give any dry solder more chance. Also a ultrasonic cleaner. But great content.
What do you mean with flux? Spray flux all over the card, then heatgun it, or??
You are a smart guy, must have tried too, but is Very common to the hdmi die... i bought a 960 for cheap because the hdmi was dead, but the display port was ok (and I'm using it with an adapter now)
Fellow Aussie here (N.S.W), got a few questions to ask.
1) Why Brake Clean specifically? Price? Availability? Larger capacity than most cans of electronics cleaner?
2) Are you flipping the AM3 970 board? I'm looking for one to drop a loose FX 6300 in I have laying around and finding good mobo's for a decent price that suit FX processors is really difficult now.
I worked in electronics and the heat gun on to the chips is the best way to make the solder underneath connect. Sometimes there can be voids where bubbles of air in the solder paste make a weak connection. We used to xray a final product and if there was a void heat gun then check and it would be perfect.
"This is a big reason why I'm not big on laptops personally, and that is we've got GPU CPU RAM all on the same motherboard"
Totally 100% agree, I have 3 PC, and only 1 Laptops.
Yeah cause my RAM GPU and storage are all in different parts of my room, my pc still runs fine! Totally not all on the same motherboard inside my case.
Some decent laptops still have socketed RAM and CPUs
@@sachatrin2981
Clevo's are the best bet for one of those. They also have excessive cooling.
@@sachatrin2981 Only the REALLY high end flashy ones, sadly. And this is the industry's answer to REVERSING landfill???
@@Psyrecx And excessive price tag. I love Clevo, but find them too plastic, and the fans are whiny. My old M670SRU had such a whiny CPU fan it was like a BANSHEE.
Awesome job,Bryan!Favourite part:washing the ram in the dishwasher! :)
This is awesome showing how to resurrect some cards. If you ever want to upgrade in the future with the tools. Check out the Hakko bottom heaters and PCB vises. At work, these things really speed up the time without burning up the parts and PCBs. The new stuff is kind of expensive but if you can find it second hand you could save some cash. The bottom heater really helps with layered boards with large ground plaining or large BGA's. At work we use ether Weller or Hakko and this stuff works 3 shifts a day 6 days a week. We put these tools threw hell and they just keep working, though the solder tips if miss used will only last a week but if you know how to use them they will last a few months. I've gotten a medium size Hakko 936 solder tip to last 4 months.
I hope you won't sell these cards!
As an electrical engineer I can say that without applying BGA flux, they most likely wont last very long. reflowing BGA Chips is not that easy. A small oven works better, but only if you apply flux.
For private use, heat gunning (or baking) them without flux is totally fine, but just don't expect them to work over time. It really is a gamble. I've done this (like you, without flux) to an R9 280X, worked great for over a year, but then it failed again.
For some graphics chips it also won't work, because the die itself is degraded. A good example are Radeon HD6xxx and GeForce 8xxx cards. They have a VERY high rate at coming back to life, but they will fail again after a bit of thermal cycling.
This method is great for extracting an extra 6-24 months of the GPU, for example to wait for the next generation, or for fun, but NOT for selling those.
If you want to sell them, use flux, so the fix will last.
Also, it is a good idea to check vcore with a multimeter before trying this. if Vcore is not even present, this won't fix it, or it will only work for a few days (because heating capacitors can revive them for a few days)
for some reason i am only entertained by your videos now out of every tech channel
I have a dead AMD R9 270X (MSI, Twin Frozr) that gives signal as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter" but when I try to install the video driver, I'm stuck with a permanent black screen (tryed a lot of version + bios reflash and still nope). Gotta try the heat method directly on the PCB and hope it will work. Thank you for your videos man👍 really helpful
Contact cleaner all over 1st...Try that before the heat gun method.
for laptops, try putting them in the oven 200 degrees C for 10 min, if there are plastic parts cover them with aluminum foil. Worked for a laptop where the GPU got loose. Got it for free 30 min work :) Just make sure you let it cool down be4 you move it.
21:00 - I'll do it for you. Not a problem, even flash it for you. Have the tools and parts, just send it!
Also, don't be afraid to keep the heat going on those parts, just don't burn them.... Happy to fix ya laptops too, no need to replace whole board, unless CPU dead or dying.
Cheers Bry, luv ya content.
I love this vaporware/ synthetic wave music you use.
Greetings from Romania, Bryan! I can attest the DVI thingy on the HD7950 as well - I have a older card (7870 OC, the Gigabyte kind) that does the same thing - it will cut out on standard HDMI, but work absolutely fine on a DVI to HDMI adapter. P55 machine by the way, the kind that you loved - GB P55A-UD3 + i7 860.
keep going what you're doing man. You inspire me into building my first PC up to making money from it. I make more with PC and laptop repair as more people are looking into getting the hardware fix during this pandemic as they work more at home. Thanks for the vid man.
Is there any particular kind of brake fluid I should avoid?
loving this segment of channel it's helped me tweak my method of brining back a few dead cards including a unique slomo bluescreening Nvidia Titan X GPU.
Keep up the good work stay safe.
aside from the heat gun.. issues.. i wouldn't put carb cleaner on electronics mainly because it's unnecessary.
i use the good old dishwasher along with the dishes and ->THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT
Love your channel Bryan. Keep it going.
Being someone who deals with refurbing laptops any of your business oriented laptops like Lenovo ThinkPads and Dell latitudes are super easy to work on and repair even the screens. Also some times unplugging the cmos and built in battery for a couple days have saved some of the ThinkPads I've had that boot loop. Also the market for parts from those type of laptops from the screen to keyboad have a pretty good resale on ebay and the like.
whoahhh!! I have so many dead laptops here. I hope the contact cleaner and heat gun helps me to fix all or maybe some. very interesting! Thanks to this video.
I loved this video thanks dude! I actually learnt a couple of useful things here :)
Nice video ♥♥! As a current TH-camr, I am contantly searching for new ideas! Good Job!
Bryan: I always wondered why applying heat to the GPU would sometimes fix a problem. Also, how permanent is that “fix”? Thanks for all you do.
You didn’t ask me but I won’t let that stop me from replying. The idea is that either through manufacturing defect or thermal stress during usage the solder balls that attach the physical chip to the board become disconnected. Sometimes the chip ‘floats’ off the solder ball entirely and sometimes it’s just sorta on and off so you can get intermittent failures. The heat gun partially melts the solder balls and allows thE chip to sorta ‘float’ back into place, reconnecting them. If you want to know more, look up “reflowing”
its not a permanend fix though. more often than not he solder balls will fracture again. Honestly I love TechYesCity but i would not recommend this as a "fix" method unless you plan to keep the hardware for the rest of its days. During the xbox 360 days many sellers pulled scams by heat gunning xbox 360s
Thank you Tech Yes for giving me extra methods to revived dead gpu's :DDD. This one of the reason i love your channel!
Loving your clear, concise content Brian!. So much so that "and with that aside" has now crept into my regular vocab. Not sure about today's "pew pew pew" though 😂
Heat gun & oven bake methods have ressurected plenty for me also. Thanks for your generosity ... "peace out for now" ✌
Thanks Buddy. I´m one passionated PC-Builder for decades now. But never dissambled Graphics cards till yet. Now I´ve got the bite to do it´s.
Got here´s one damaged AMD Radeon VII Card, with faulty RAM-DAC. No signal-black screen. BIOS Warning sounds =1x long peep and 3x Short ones!
Should I´ll RISK my warranty, trying to fix her by cleaning!?
Cuz still remains 5 months till it´s ENDS
Or do you mind If I´ll should intead send back to RMA=?
We all know it´s reference Design card. The Manufacterer was MSI.
So the damage just occuered on the last days. I´ve still using 2 others Rigs.
That´s card isn´t affects me so bad.
But I´ve really loved her. Even wrote VII in red letters on the side and painted the fans inner circle in red too!!
Good show... cheers mate. Very cool to watch
Love for you Brian, great channel and most of all great help.
Much respect and love from South Africa.
Bryan you really open my eyes on second hand PC parts. I used to think that new parts must be really good due to its price. But watching your video, hey you can play a video game in 1080p with second hand parts, and the hunting for it, is an experience.
Keep up your great job mate, my best wishes for you and family!
Well new parts are still worth (usually) what they cost, I mean you dont have to spend ANY time tech yes lovin' a new motherboard or RAM lol. Buying new is also it's own experience, because then YOU are also still the one to choose how it looks and all.
Man, I need to try some of that Kenndington RAM
deditated kenndinggton'; RAMm
Great video as always, keep the good work.
I have been having issues fixing a family member's laptop, it's an old Samsung.
For some reason the desktop icons keep flashing, and if i press the right mouse button they apear, if i press the left button they disapear. It even started pasting the days date on a document for no reason. It reduces the sound when playing videos to 0 and keps refreshing the webpages. Initially I thought it could be the keyboard so I unplugged it and used an external one, problem persisted.
Then I thought it could be software so I intalled win10, Win8, Win7 and even linux, but the problems persist. Then I started thinking it could be a problem with the graphics chip (the pc was overheating before I got my hands on it, so it might be shorting) but that would cost way to much to fix it, it it really is that.
Do you happen to have any idea what could be? Also the problems seem to be worse when the temperatures are higher.
for your laptop bootloop issue: google NEC TOKIN , replacing that IC solves most of that problem
One of my favorite series aside from deals hunt keep it up brian
That white pcb graphics card is awesome! Fingers crossed here that you get it working while I watch this.
USE MAF CLEANER NOT BREAK CLEANER!! ALSO WHEN YOU HEAT UP ELECTRONICS YOU WANT TO HAVE THEM AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE. THAT WAY THE COMPONENTS DON'T SHIFT AS THE SOLDER MELTS...
Had a gtx 770 from msi. I had the faulty driver error from windows. Gpu application shut off when the gpu loaded up. I opened up the gpu and cleaned it up. Now it works perfectly. I don't no for how long.
Wanted to fix my DDR3s. Saw your video title. Clicked into it. Saw you washing the rams. I hesitated. 🤣
You're the only guy I know who'd put a motherboard on the wall rather than a picture frame or certificate. Guess someone can give you a moose head, yeah but I'd imagine that would be too big. Motherboard fits you. Please don't staple it on your shirt with LEDs. You're a great tech to watch!
Awesome work. I really hope especially the 780 Ti ressurection holds up.
ASKED for GOOD TIPS, try puting some soldering flux smeared on the soldering pins and legs of cpu dram etc before applying the Heat gun resulting in low heat remelt and connection of DRY Joints and connections,Works a treat Brother !
Well done. Good content. Well delivered
19:36 my friend got the same situation and my solution was bring it to istc vietnam( they working on rma and repairing msi products in vn), they just need to replace a capacitor on the vrm and everything was good to go
Lead free solder has a lot to answer for, also have you tried putting liberal amounts of gel flux on the boards before you heat gun them. imho this is the best way
I see Louis Rossman crying over that heatgun.
Yes, it boots but is it reliable? If it is too cheap to diagnose a problem properly - why not try it the junky way?
Louis would be horrified about no flux policy. Another point is you can't wash it without proper inspection, you are erasing all clues.
@@gabrielcamacho6247 Louis is the flux man
Hey man since you have nothing to lose try the oven method on the cards that didn't come back.
Preheat a oven to 205°C~210°C put the card in and set a timer for 10mins. Turn off the oven and let it naturally cool inside the oven.
Would be a cool video :D
I brought a Wifi card back to life using this method.
Be careful with plastic. Many plastics start melting at this temperature but PCB manufactures usually use plastics with a higher melting temperature so they can solder the components that have plastic without melting them.
@Instead of aluminium foil you can use MB spacers to raise the cards out of the ground.
The dead cards are good for HDMI ports for other cards. All cards have different profile ports. EVGA are proprietary. Does take a serious iron to get them off though. 7 layer board? If you can get them off in perfect shape they sell for $15 each on Ebay
In all likelihood you're actually just forcing the die to realign with the substrate in most cases. I don't think you're reaching temperatures that would melt the lead-free solder under the chip, if you would then you'd see the chip hover over the pcb (if flat) or just misaligned completely when angled like you showed in the video. This type of fix is great if you get hosed with a gpu (so you can resell it the the next unlucky sod) but i wouldn't use it in a build especially if you offer any kind of warranty. I've had cases where the gpu would die again after just a few hours but also had situations where the gpu worked fine for at least a year. I'm curious about the feedback you get with those, would love an update on that.
Love your content, been a long time viewer :)
You had me at Tech Yes Lovin!
I suspect the hdmi issues can be 1 of 2 things..
someone has either fucked around in window or bio and set vga/dvi as primary..
second issue is the port has failed requiring replacement or it has been zapped and anything that sits behind the port is gone..
i would advise convertors on a cable as to run them on the ports (whilst can be done) can introduce excess on the pcb..
I also suspect the lack of use of a strain relief cable most likely caused damages the hdmi port..
Love these episodes, have given up on my crashing 980ti so it might get sent in too
Some of the cheaper Gigabyte boards have the silkscreen, traces and pads for dual BIOS but only come with one chip. The dual BIOS boards are supposed to be able to work even with one chip removed. You might have to desolder, format, flash and resolder this one or order a blank or preflashed chip to fix it. You can also use a programmer with a test clip (so no desoldering) but I find those extremely unreliable and frustrating. Based on what I've seen I'm confident that you can learn to do hot air soldering in no time. Don't even think of using an iron even though it's possible to do so. Feel free to ask for equipment recommendations.
Good content. Always enjoy these videos.
I love this kind of fixing content. You can try to do the same heatgun method to the laptop motherboard, I mean you got nothing to lose. It'll be cool if it works
I guess the hot air is better the old oven trick to reheat a bad solder ball or loose joint so tks for the flick.
Tech Yes City is simply the best tech tuber, hands down.
I love the channel. Just one note. You should try to shield caps on the graphics card. They don't like heat at all. Since inside is electrolyte and you are cooking it with heat gun. Maybe wrap them with aluminium foil somehow. Keep up the great job you are doing. Also great video editing.
When you own board is being featured and he is cleaning it to flip it... ok upgrade time. Also city view in the background of a video is cool as hell.
Amazing, informative and just plain stellar content....
you could always keep some surface mount paste on hand for soldering you just gotta lay the stuff on the contacts insert the chip and heat it up and it should bond right to it.
You can probably fix the card with the memory issue if it is a cold solder joint. Get out the solder melting point and use no clean flux in the oven at that temperature.
Build something to suspend the boards in the air in the oven.
Great video as always! Love these video!
Sometimes the Graphics Card's BIOS can corrupt and it may either just not display an output or behave weirdly in windows like not being able to run 3d work loads.
No amount of heat gun and cleaning can fix this, however it is very easy to reprogram the bios from windows using a tool like NVflash (for nvidia cards) and ATIFlash (For amd).
You just need to have the card in the PC and working video output via integrated graphics or another card. As long as device manager detects it, it might detect it as a Microsoft basic display adaptor or as the actual model, but it will likely say "windows has stopped this device code 43".
If it shows up in device manager, it should be visible to NV/ATI flash, and it should be able to reprogram the bios.
If you can't get it detected in NV/ATI flash it might be possible to use a hardware re-programmer, they are cheap £10 and work for basically every card ever, these use a peg like clip to attach to the bios chip (provided you can find it).
A hardware re-programmer should always work and if it doesn't the bios chip is ruined or the reprogramming software doesn't know how to talk to it, in the former case it might be possible to buy a new SPI flash chip, to bring the card back, very simple SMD Soldiering.
It is also I would say more likely that the vrm or other power delivery/supporting voltage rail has failed on the card rather than the core just dying.
These fails can vary wildly from super easy to fix if you know what you're looking for to, you now have some sand instead of a GPU. Any VRM that directly powers something in the core, can kill the the core if it fails, depending on how it fails and depending on the GPU core.
Also in this sort of failure scenario the heat gun won't do anything, except maybe kill the core if it survived the vrm failing.
Yes the Heat Gun Method works, obviously it did 3 times in this video, but its not regarded as a good first response.
It can fix the card for maybe forever or maybe only a few hours of power on time.
What it does is potentially reestablish FCBGA connections between the Silicon GPU Die and the GPU Substrate, the green package the die is attached to.
The substrate is then attached to the graphics card's PCB.
It is extremely unlikely the substrate BGA disconnects the Substrate from the PCB, and in this case it must be heated to lead free soldier reflow temperatures which are between 240-250c, I'm pretty sure you're not using the heat gun at that temperature because in 8 minutes of blasting the cards, components would have fallen off the back at that temperature.
In comparison FCBGA will reflow at 180c, it is luck that any broken connections are re established, although no matter the temperature they are likely to be poor connections that will fail again.
FCBGA breaks down due to the gpu core going from 40c idle to 70-80c load very quickly, the change in temperature causes expansion and contraction in the FCBGA connections, which can lead to them breaking eventually.
My troubleshooting recommendation:
1. - If you don't know how it died, use a multi-meter to check for short circuits between the 12 volt rails (pcie slot and 6/8 pin connectors) and ground, also check for short circuits between 12 volts and the GPU's Vcore output this is easy to check by probing an inductor which is part of the Vcore VRM. Checking for short circuits between Vcore and Ground is very difficult because, when a GPU core is turned off it has a very low resistance less than 1 ohms, or even less than 0.5 ohms. This step is only done to prevent fire or unnecessary damage to the GPU core.
2. - If its clear of short circuits, try booting it. If you get no image, try with another card and see if it shows up in device manager, if it does and it says "windows stopped this device (code 43)" or something to that effect, try a bios flash, if flashing the BIOS doesnt work proceed with steps 3 and 4.
3. - If the card is a no show in device manager, using the multi meter check if the two major power rails are present for the card to operate, Vcore & Vmem. This can be checked by probing the an inductor (the non switching side of them) which is part of the Vcore or Vmem VRM. If you have no voltage on either or both of these then that's why the card doesn't work. Finding out why they aren't present beyond that is more complicated, but generally if both are present then every other voltage rail is present.
4. - If the two major rails are present and it doesn't show up in task manager OR bios flash didn't work, try the heat gun, you have nothing to lose now.
I just thought I'd share my experiences repairing graphics cards with you, I've only attempted repairing 4 cards but had 100% success rate;
Sapphire RX 480 Nitro+ number 1: had a corrupted BIOS.
Sapphire RX 480 Nitro+ number 2: had burnt out a transistor that controlled the fans, this was shorting out 12 volts to ground, causing the power supply to trip over current protection, removing the transistor got the card to work, just not without fan power anymore.
Plait GTX 1070: Had blown a fuse between the Vcore VRM and PCIE 12 volts, this was due to a failed power stage short circuiting 12 volts to the core and to ground. Removing the dead power stage removed the short circuit. Jumping the fuse with a wire allowed the card to work, however now as a 7 phase instead of an 8.
the 1070 also had an unrelated issue of a voltage signal which told the Vmem and Vcore vrms to start, was intermittent. This was fixed by removing the chip that sent the signal and hard wiring it to always turn the vrm's on.
Gigabyte GTX 1080 ti OC: Had completely exploded its Vcore vrm, the 1070 had just failed and blown the fuse, the 1080 ti didn't have fuses which allowed the vrm to set on fire burning the pcb.
Because the PCB was burnt, many layers were now shorted together, and repairing the Vcore vrm is impossible.
The burnt pcb material was cut out using a dremel machining bit, until there were no short circuits.
The Vcore vrm I replaced by an E power or zombie modification, by which you replace the Vcore VRM with an external vrm which is soldiered to the output of the original Vcore vrm.
This modification requires the Vcore vrm's voltage control be removed, so it doesn't shut down the card when it says there is an error with the vrm.
It also requires that the card is power modded, by which the INA 3221 power monitoring chip thinks its pulling more power that its actually reading, the Vcore vrm is gone, so its not reading a power draw high enough, this puts the card into safe mod, which locks the core clock to 300 mhz, same as if you use too much liquid metal or short out the shut resistors to increase the power limit, this 1080 ti now thinks its pulling 18% of TDP all the time no matter the load condition.
Just a disclaimer, I would not feel comfortable reselling the 1070 or 1080 ti (not that I plan to), I also do not think anyone would buy the 1080 ti in particular, due to it now occupying 5 PCIE slots and requiring 4 power connectors, both Nvidia cards had at some point received 12 volts directly to the gpu core, this is terrible for the core, and would outright kill it in a majority of cases, I got very lucky here. As such the life time of these cards has probably been greatly reduced. Also the modifications to both are some what questionable from an electrical safety standpoint.
The RX 480 with the burnt out fan power circuit, I was be comfortable reselling, as 1. I did, and 2. the circuit damaged was disconnected from any power, so is not electrically questionable, it just required its fans be power externally.
That HOF Geforce looks awesome dude, good job!
Great video, great work with the GPUs. Can WD40 be used as well for cleaning? And if I have a heat gun with temperature what should it be set to if you know? Keep up the good work. Love you Yes man! :)
Should invest in a board preheater and hot air station for permanent repair. It's not really that expensive and both things are quite useful for a lot of things. Plenty of chinese preheaters available, anything that can get a stable 150c+ and has enough room (they are usually less than $120, some are more fancy that have their own K sensor probes). Hot air station is a very nice thing to have and is quite the investment, I like the Quick 861DW but there is also the cheaper version Atten ST-862D. Obviously you'll need stencils of different pitches, solder balls, and a decent iron as well (and obviously good flux that likes to run).
I'd like to see some genuine repairs, that'd be a good change of pace compared to a lot of other tech channels. And genuine repairs aren't even that difficult to accomplish, so there isn't much of an excuse!
One of the GREATEST youtube heroes 😍😍
Brian and His Gun....give you some Tech City Love....oh YES.
There is a very common but also very obscure issue on some lenovo models... Is a bug that wears down the bios flash chip with the constant writing of system logs. If you have the tools, try replacing the bios chip. You will need to pull out the current bios from the chip and burn it to a new chip. There are flash programmers that are dirt cheap that you can use to do this (the one based in the ch341 works perfect).
You can buy both the programmer and the flash chip on aliexpress. Alternatively, you can recycle a flash chip from other motherboard and get the programmer though amazon or ebay.
i have a thing for white PCB videocards. they are looking amazing! So my favorite pc part refurb was HOF GTX 780TI!!! oh, Brian! What was the second spray after brake cleaner...?
Looking forward to get 980Ti asus Strix to get into working order - currently it has an issue with resolution higher than 1024x768 - it starts to show artefacts.
Brian, I think buying a 10 or 20 litee can of brake cleaner and a refillable spray pump is way more economical for you. Those little aerosol cans are empty in no time.
your videos are amazing, i was only meant to watch a few then game, but 2 hours later here I am enjoying the tech yes fun!
You can always use a 'DVI to HDMI' cable when the HDMI port on the video card is not working. That gives you a better output and also transmits audio (if you are connecting it to a TV for example). These cables are also cheap.