I’m using 10w-30 Truck & SUV in the old Ford 300 6 . Everyone says add a bottle of ZDDP due to flat tappet cam. Sticking with the oil only. Also use in the GM 8.1L and Jeep 3.6. Excellent review. Would be good to have an hour review video on all the various references and how they interact. Zinc Mag calcium. All the letters referenced. A layman’s class on oil.
After 487,000 miles I measured the cylinder compression on my 1992 Toyota pickup engine that had run Mobil 1 10W-30 or 10W-40 all of its life. 190 PSI on all cylinders - just like a new engine + 20 extra psi due to normal carbon buildup.. Next I examined the most wear prone parts of the valve train - the tips of the valve adjustment screws that contact the top of each valve stem. Normally those tips develop wear indentations over time, but my Mobil 1 screws remained unworn. Next I looked at camshaft lobes and rocker arm pads - no scratches, ridges or other indications of wear. Lastly, the engine still passed Calif smog testing by a huge margin still running its factory original catalytic converter. I changed the Mobil 1 every 4,000 miles.
I believe everything u stated, especially since u changed oil at 4 thou, one thing u should learn is compression is one thing, but cylinder leakdown is a better measurement as a before and after. As long as valves and gaskets r not leaking. But valves and gaskets r trie about a compression check too. JS
To the response on leak down is better, a running compression test is quicker and provides better real life readings as volumetric efficiency decreases. It takes time and extra equipment to do a leak down test, I still own one from SnapOn but not everybody is racing or going to drop $300-$400 on a new leakage tester. Unless you are doing two-stroke boat engines. Don’t forget the power adders from turbo, super chargers that typically have the largest ring end gap if built for this application. Those won’t do anything on a leak down test unless you have a build sheet with before and after numbers. Just a thought.
@deankay4434 i hear u. But I have a oldd chevy v8. It's compression is around 210 psi, but leakdown is at least 40 % on all cylinders. I don't need a. Before like new reading to see how much wear is involved with rings and cylinders. Only trying to get people to understand that just cause your compression is up there doesn't mean u don't have excessive wear. And that's how much better a leakdown tester is to a serious mechanic. THANKS SMOKEY
I have had excellent UOAs on a few 5W-30 spec cars running Mobil 1 0W-40. While I have found oils my european cars prefer, I have owned a half dozen cars that saw nothing but Mobil 1 0W-40 with excellent results.
Every 4K miles? That's a LOT of $$ over almost 500K! Never took the engine apart but my Mitsubishi 4-banger got oil changes 1-2 times a year from 1993-2018 and ran as good at the end as it did at the start. Looking into the opening in the valve cover where you pour in the oil was always like looking into a brand new engine.
As a long time user and early adopter of Mobil One, I can attest to the long term performance and benefit of using this product. I have owned a 2006 Honda Odyssey since new and switched to Mobil One after the break in oil was changed (at about 500 miles as I recall). It just passed the 355,000 mile mark and is running perfectly. Along the way I have of course replaced all the various component seals and gaskets, and I had reason to pull the oil pan and valve covers at the 300K mileage super service. I was astounded as there was zero sludge in both and short of some yellowing which I assume must be related to a light varnishing, everything was amazingly clean and tight. Remarkably the valve lash was still in spec! I have changed the oil and filter at the factory oil reminder intervals and only three times do I recall using another brand of synthetic as I could not obtain mobil one. Even though the seals are all replaced, I still use the high mileage variant. BTW, I have used Fram "cheapo" filters primarily but have also tried just about very other brand of filter. While I can't say one has performed better than the others, I have never experienced any sort of failure with even the low end fram filter. I expect this engine to make it to 500,000 miles, maybe even longer. I attribute that to diligent maintenance and the superior performance of Mobil One oil.
I have a 2006 Honda Element that just turned 400,000 miles. Have used Pennzoil synthetic 5W-20 in it since new. Still does not consume oil nor does it leak any. I have always had it serviced at the dealer I bought it from at the intervals Honda recommends. That little 2.4L engine is one of the best Honda has ever made. Bullet proof.
I think that's more of a tribute to Honda's engineering that the oil. Every time I've lost an engine; it had Mobile 1 in it. Now these were racing situations, and it was always a bearing.
Did you check valve lash yourself. I have a 3.5 L , just wondering how complex it may be. I’m not as proficient as a lot of others that dig this deep into their own maintenance.
I was a mechanic on the Alaska pipeline in 1988 when Mobil 1 was awarded the lubrication contract. Part of that deal was we doubled oil change intervals with a guarantee of extended service life of the equipment. Servicing that equipment made a believer of me. I already knew how well my personal two strokes responded, had been on Bel Ray since the mid 70’s. I have used and recommended synthetics. They never let me down.
@@conmanumber1 It’s interesting the government of New Zealand got involved but my question would be how did they arrive at this conclusion? Did they use lab testing or stick their finger in it for a look see? Generally, it’s going to be the manufacturer of the engine as most government officials can’t tie shoes. Thank god for Velcro!
My dad has been running Mobil 1 since the mid-70s, and I've been running it since 1991. It's worked awesome for both of us with excellent results, and it's easy to find and not overly expensive. There might be better stuff out there, but I'm pretty loyal customer after 33 years.
Awesome content. I have been using Mobil 1 for many, many years. This also proves to me that Mobil does what they say they are doing or what the product is formulated for. I recently started using Mobil Delvac 1 full synthetic in my new tractor for a year now. It really made a difference. What I would love to see on your channel sometime is a comparison of conventional Diesel engine oils and a comparison of full synthetic Diesel engine oils. Thanks again Lake for a great educational video.
Thanks for the great data as usual. The original ads for Mobil 1 got me hooked on M-1. Couldn’t afford it back then in college. But switched to it exclusively when I built my first SB in 1982. I’ll switch over to 5w-20 Truck and SUV in my 22 year old Ford 4.6. Keep the great content coming!
This is good information, Lake. Is it possible to perform these same tests on Valvoline and Pennzoil motor oils? Would love to see those. Thanks for doing this! Always interesting and educational.
Been using M1 oils for 47 years with outstanding results in various engines, mostly Fords. 91 Ford Ranger 3.0 with 354 k, to my presant 2007 Ford Fusion 2.3 with 356 k. All at 10K OCIs.
I enjoy learning about the differences in motor oils. Still don’t understand where sooner of these synthetics come from, but it still cool learning about it. Your editing skills are getting pretty sharp to I must say.
my neighbor moved to a seniors home and asked if i wanted all the oils and fluids he had in the garage because he wasn't going to be able to use them. gave me a few dozen sealed tin cans of modil, golf and a esso motor and trans oils. obviously never going to use them but still super cool so i built a display shelf in the lobby of my shop to show them off
Great add to the oil video catalog! I've leered at the potpurri of Mobil 1 oils on the shelf and pondered possible differences. Glad to hear there IS a difference, yet sad at the same time. In principle, I COMPLETELY agree application dictates chemistry. And, it follows that choice should be backed by testing. However, I can neither perform chemical analysis or afford a test program to independently verify and choose an oil. So these videos are an exclusive resource. I'll likely be switching to the RV/Truck blend in my tow vehicle- thanks. I was a bit let down that one of the oils specified for one of my rides, Advanced Fuel Economy, was not included in the group. I get it, 2 arms, 2 legs, 24 hours in a day, there's a limit to how much can get done. Keep up the good videos!
Really enjoy the honest science you crank out with your channel, Lake! Thank you for what you do. I’m currently going down the rabbit hole of increasing oil capacity via a larger pan or larger and/or dual filters in a daily. I’d be interested in seeing a video on the pros/cons!
When I was a kid my father had a few Texaco gas stations. I remember using and selling havoline , then I switched myself to mobil-1. Thanks for the video!
Started my Mobile 1 journey with a new '86 Vette. Used it in all my gas engines ever since. Had over 300k miles in my S430 and was still running strong when I sold it.
As a private pilot and piston-aircraft owner in the late 1990s, everything in those days was AV-1, the aircraft version of Mobil-1. Best thing since sliced bread - until it wasn't. Engines, especially the big-bore Continentals, started blowing up. Not a fun thing to happen while you're flying! Since aircraft engines are pricey, Mobil faces a flurry of lawsuits, finally agreeing to replace thousands of customer's engines that met their criteria. The problem, as I recall, was that piston aircraft gas was very high lead content. Something in the oil made the lead precipitate out of the fuel and collect in every valley of the engine castings. Taking off the valve covers, obvious grey puddles of sludge could be seen in all the low spots. I don't believe AV-1 even exists any longer.
AV1 could not suspend the lead that collected in the sumps from ring blow by. It was much worse in Continentals than Lycomings. I used mineral based Philips 66 for this reason in my plane.
First used Mobil 1 in the metal can approx. 1978 or 1979. Had a Ford Gran Torino sport with a 351 Cleveland engine Immediatly got 10% better mpg and noticably more power. Wasn't available locally so had to get when we visited the mother-in-law. Think it was $10 per quart when regular oil was bout a dollar a quart. Well worth it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!!. I actually reached out to Mobil 1 a couple of years ago regarding their various offerings of a specific viscosity and the respective differences. The official answer I got from Mobil 1 was they didn't know/ weren't sure....now I/we know!!! Glad to see they are different formulations and not just a ploy to have a higher shelf space presence with the same thing labelled 5 different ways. Two more video requests 1)Maybe a head to head comparison on 'performance' brands with diehard fanbases e.g. Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs etc. along with more common off the shelf stuff like Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennszoil and see the differences. 2)More on the history of oil. I love the great content and look forward to future installments.
This is a fantastic test format. You should do this for each major manufactures oil lines. it would probably change their marketing and even formulations. Lake lifting the veil!
When you get the time can you do an engine block heater video discussing reducing engine strain. This could be a theoretical discussion or a real life test. Anyways keep up the great work 🎉
All of today’s modern synthetic oils are so much better than the oils available 40 years ago. Pick any brand you want. Use the proper viscosity and change in in reasonable time and you’ll never have an engine failure due to oil.
i was a fuel tanker driver for 11 years exxon mobile always makes sure the testing and quality are better than the standaard they set. they always do it better than required . also Exxon Mobile is very safe and employes tens of thousands very well paid Americans..
Lake, we are picking up a new 2025 Honda Pilot after we lost out CRV due to an inattentive driver. I intend to follow your recommendation and change the oil in the first 1,000 miles. I'm planning on using a factory oil filter and Honda oil on the first change. Any recommendations on other oils ? This is the first direct injection engine I've owned, my Toyota truck is both direct and port injection. We plan on keeping this vehicle a long time and and I'll change the oil every 5K miles as I do on my truck. I really enjoy watching your channel and gaining knowledge. I'm an old kart racer myself and we ran enduro karts all through the late 70's all the way through the 80's. I remember your dad winning the World Championship and what a huge deal it was for an American driver to win against the Europeans, made us American kart racers proud.
Sorry to hear about the accident. Hopefully everyone is ok. In regards to the 2025 Honda Pilot, here is the proper framework for making decisions regarding oil. Step 1 - Utilize the OEM recommended oil and do two early oil changes during the break-in process (500 to 1,000 miles and again between 3,000 and 4,000 miles). If the engine is already broken-in, skip to step 3. Step 2 - Take used oil samples at each oil change to establish the trend analysis. Step 3 - Go 5,000 miles on the third oil change and take a used oil sample. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. If the wear rate is between 5 ppm and 10 ppm per 1,000 miles, go another 5,000 miles on the OEM recommended oil and resample. If the wear rate is still greater than 5 ppm per 1,000 miles, then move to step 4. Step 4 - Review the used oil analysis data to see if the OEM recommended oil is falling short in any aspect (low viscosity, additive depletion, higher wear rate). If it is falling short, try a different oil of the same viscosity that meets the OEM spec. Go 3,000 to 4,000 miles on that oil and then refill with that same oil and go another 5,000 miles before taking another sample. See if the change in brand drops the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm. If it does, you are good. If it does not, then move to Step 5. Step 5 - Since the change in brand did not get the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm, use next higher viscosity grade of whichever oil had the lowest wear rate per 1,000 miles. If it was the non-OEM brand, resample at 5,000 miles to check the wear rate per 1,000 miles. If it was the OEM brand, you will need to use it for 3,000 to 4,000 miles to flush the non-OEM oil out of the system before going 5,000 miles on the higher viscosity OEM oil to take another sample. If either higher viscosity oil brings the wear rate down, then stay with that viscosity grade. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is still above 5 ppm, go back to Step 4 and repeat. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. You can then use the oil analysis results to fine tune the oil change interval.
I didn't try Mobil 1 until I bought my '97 4 Runner back in '97. But the first synthetic oil I used was Klotz Techniplate synthetic for my first motorcycle. Right away I could tell a difference. There was less mechanical noises coming from the engine. BTW I still have my 4 Runner. It has over 431k miles. Doesn't lose any oil between 5k mile oil interval changes.
Hey Lake, thanks for another great, informative, and entertaining video. I appreciate you and the content you put out. Stay blessed! Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your loved ones!
This was really informative. It seems a timing chain engine with hydraulic roller followers needs a more shear-stable oil than a simpler timing belt engine with mechanical followers. And the truck/SUV blend is good for any gas engine that really scorches its engine oil.
Use that C40 GT in the Porsche 992 GT3 Cups and GT4 RS Clubsport I race. Fun fact, Porsche recommends a 5,000 oil change interval ON TRACK. Basically, its the factory fill for 5k miles and then a single change, run again, replace engine. I kid you not. Now I'm not an expert but we're changing the oil every weekend as leaving all that wear metal in there regardless of oil quality and viscosity just seems much smarter when replacement engine are north of $70,000.
Man I love your stuff! But I’m begging you! PLEASE do an oil analysis video with Pennzoils new platinum 15,000 mile formula vs the old one. I’m curious to see how they’re making that claim and if they ruined the OLD platinum formula by dumping a bunch of unnecessary detergents just to make the 15,000 claim
I took over a Mobil franchise in 1982. I was required by Mobil to buy 50 24quart cases of Mobil one it came in metal cans we had big leaking problems. The oil would even leak out of the cans before we opened it that’s why I think they went to metal cans mobil one has come a long way today. we used to refer to the cans silver bullets
Been using Mobil 1 for 30 years from air-cooled Porsche race motors to water-cooled race motors to my everyday drivers. Great oil, never an issuie and i have the oil analysis to back it up.
WOW, thank you so much for this video. Very interesting as always ! Glad to have seen the differences between the Mobil 1 Supercar and the new Mobil 1 C40 GT.
Mobil 1 was the first synthetic motor oil introduced into the UK in the mid-70's. I was a professional chemist working in the polymer industry so I adopted Mobil 1 for my cars and bikes as I understood the chemistry, even though Mobil 1 was 5x the cost of equivalent mineral oil. At the launch of Mobil 1, each can came with a leaflet which explained the basic chemistry and stated that you could extend your manufacturer recommended oil change intervals by a factor of at least 2 or 3 providing the filter was changed according to manufacturer spec. After all these years, I can't remember the exact wording but I certainly went to 2 and 3 times, depending upon the type of engine, for all my cars and bikes. Of course, in those days, manufacturer oil change recommendations were all based on mineral oil and were typically 3k to 6k miles. Modern cars oil change recommendations are usually based on synthetic oil and, for my cars and bikes, range from 10k to 25k miles so I guess that, all other things being equal, the Mobil 1 recommendation to 2x or 3x extended mileage has stood the test of time.
3:40 I remember the ‘seal compatibility issues’… I called them ‘leaks’. A manager of a tire and lube shop floated the theory that the oil was so slippery, that it was ‘slipping’ past the seals …😢
I've heard similar things, I've read that a lot of this started after WW2 as they had pushed development hard during the war so old cars had issues when they started using these new chemistries that cleaned better. There was also the issue Lake talked about with seals that 'didn't agree'. But I have experienced the opposite, a switch to synthetic (and thinner) made it leak less. 😄
back in 1987/9 fresh out of the Marines, i took my savings and bought a mustang 5.0 LX, i used only mobil 1 for its entire, illegal street racing life..LOVE MOBIL ONE
im so curious for you to do an Amsoil video, im wanting to change to it and see if its worth the extra cost..thanks for your knowledge of oil, its fascinating..
Yep, for some reason it was branded Mobil SHC in the UK when I first started using it in 1984. You literally had to order it through a Mobil garage…. that’s how difficult it was to get hold of. Always remember it smelt like ping pong balls 😳
Started using Mobil 1, in 1978on our 2door Subaru. We took it to Yellowstone from Michigan. Didn’t use a drop! The biggest difference in this car was when I changed the transmission fluid to synthetic AMSOIL. Wow, the mileage jumped from 22mpg to 35 mpg in a Michigan winter.
Would love to see a shoot out with the various performance grade 0w-40 oils for the forced induction V8 group. So many theories on PUP vs M1 or other brands based on OEM suggested oils.
I am a big fan of Motul full synthetic motor oils for 10+ years, specifically their 8100 ECO-LITE 5W-30 Motor Oil since it has extra additives for LSPI for my 1.6T GDi Gamma motor. Motul also carries a series of synthetic oils just like M1 called the 8100 series, which they claim as "The Swiss Army Knife of motor oils". Would love to see a similar comparison with any of Motul’s synth oils.
Hi Lake. Thanks for the great video and all the hard work to find important details. I need to ask if u know... On the supercar 5w50...do u know if it's also pao/Ester? Because I wanted to use it on a particular engine w 3000 mile oil changes. The 0w40 is a really good base formula and additives but it's thinner than I need. When I look at the msds on the 5/50 supercar it appears to have some gtl maybe? But list no pao. But the 0w40 suoercar does list pao. I would really like to know for sure on the 5w50 and thought I'd ask if u knew for sure. Thanks so much!
I have used Mobil 1 since 1977. I used Amsoil before Mobil 1. Because of the prices, I started long change intervals a few months later. No problems to now. I am completely satisfied.
Used Mobile 1 in my VAG cars for years. When Penzoil Platinum came out, on sale, I tried it. Much better gas mileage so I’ve staid with the Platinum or Ultra. The Ultra is a harder to find in the viscosity wanted. ✌️
BMW Europe opts for Shell Helix Ultra 0W-30 as the factory fill, and Belgian dealers rely on Shell as well. Helix Ultra, by the way, is branded as Pennzoil in other markets. I pay roughly $40 for a 5-liter can (around 5 quarts). For air-cooled engines like Honda's GXV160, the options are more limited. I source Amsoil SS Diesel 10W-30 from Germany because it maintains optimal engine temperature, unlike Redline 10W-30, which tends to overheat these engines. In Europe, Mobil Super 2000 X1 10W-40 is also widely available and performs well. Oil isn't just oil, every formulation matters. The MOG offers us all the information needed, as a civil engineer I like his approach and in depth knowledge. Anyway. Happy holidays & Christmas ⛄.
That Lari is beautiful, love the black package with Oxford white.I have a 19 Lari with 502a package, truck drives amazing and 3.5 been awesome 128,000kms
Yeah, I started out working as a tech in 1988 and remember for several years Mobil was the only in store on the shelf synthetic oil available. Most of the Euro vehicles labeled their oil caps for it too. I still use it sometimes since it's often on sale cheap at Walmart. Or the Walmart brand.
I took alot of heat adding alkylated napthaline to my engine oil every oil change which is basically "Moterkote " Glad to see this additive being used in modern engine oils ! It should tho be added to the oil analysis list !
Motorkote contains chlorine based antiwear. When confronted they lie and state no chlorinated anything. Bs. It’s an insane antiwear additive with a big downside. It will eat the engine by form of corrosion.
Great comparison in these Mobil 1 oils and applications It would be good so have a comparison of Amsoil produces as they just like this oil would appreciate it. Have a Merry Christmas to you and your family 🎄
Turbine engine oil has a shelf life limit. Long ago I spoke with a remote operator and he explained how he extended shelf life by refrigeration of his turbine oil. Hey another video idea! Take turbine oil, same container, three samples. One kept at -15 degC. One in lawn shed going up and down in temperature, one artificially aged at say 120 degC. All sealed containers. Wait one year. Test for oxidation.
Great video Lake,...please do the same comparison with Castrol Edge black bottle 20,000 mile oil,gold bottle 25,000 mile oil ,and full synthetic GTX...thanks.
Great stuff! It may be also interesting for us mere mortals to see some analysis of few high milleage oils and comparision with non-high millage equivalents in the same SAE grade. I saw you already done one for Penzil. Here is nice comparision on Mobil 1 even if it is slightly different SAE grade. I'm still on the fence with one of our cars. It have 90k miles now and so far I was using full synthetic 0W40 but considering if I should continue with non high-millage full sythetics or switch to High Millage ones. No leaks or oil burning so far. It's great to see guys like you with real passion share such a goodies! Thanks!
I like this, especially gmas, someone who mostly uses mobil 1. I favor the extended performance with the idea that I am giving the engine that extra protection( I'd hope it is offering that). I still change my oil every 5-7 k miles
hello Lake, I always learn something new from your videos, I am a mechanic and did take chemistry at Vanderbilt U, so I can understand about half of it, since I found your channel I have nothing but yellow jugs of Pennsoil ultra platinum in my garage for the daily drivers and VR1 for my old hotrod camaro going to go with that unless you tell me something else
@@mandytuningnot just heat break down. Turbo chargers also require higher shear as well. Ever seen what oil looks like coming out of a turbo charger’s drain? It’s frothed up like cappuccino. I have owned A LOT of turbo charged cars since the 80s. The main thing to know is you can’t change your oil too often. The number one turbo killer is dirty oil.
@stevemccauley5734 i have built turbo cars since there was no fuel injected turbos, running amsoil for decades and they never failed. But yea,lazy customers with high oil drian intervals or cheap oils cooked and bake very badly
i remember back in the 80's living in the Yukon and we would get -50 celcius in the winter. We ran Mobile 1 because all the other oils available would be like tar in the cold weather leading to damaged bearings. Another problem was the Diffs oil was so thick you almost needed 4x4 to get the vehicle moving so it was a game changer when synthetic gear oil came out. I must say i was totally confused when they started labelling it with 5w30 ,10w30,ets. I had yet to find someone that can explain to me why they did this and for that reason what was the original mobil 1. it was originally marked to us in the north as not changing its pourability in the cold temps so you would have instant oil pressure which was proven by the freezer tests. a lot of racers used to use it in their automatic trans for the same reason of not breaking down and changing thickness when hot. this putting numbers the same as conventional oil still baffles me.Lakespeed jr. I would like to thank for all your great work and info you bring to the automotive industry and its a great contribution. Thanks
In the late 70's I bought a 54' Pontiac Straight Flathead 8 from the original owner (my neighbor) and it didn't burn a drop of oil. No knocking or ticking. I ran cheap oil back then. I've been using Rotella T6 (since it came out) in everything I own 2 Diesels ⛽️ Samurai, plus every small engine. Use whatever oil makes you happy but change it on a regular basis. Thanks Lake, I really enjoy your channel
I enjoy your videos and appreciate the opportunity to expand my knowledge. If possible, could you do a segment on VW-specific oils? I’m particularly interested in VW 508/509, which is only available in 0W-20. From my understanding, according to the internet, it was developed primarily for fuel efficiency. I’m currently out of warranty on my 2019 Tiguan 2.0 turbo and would like to know how reliable the 508/509 oil is in terms of engine longevity. Also, if changing the oil weight to something other than what the engineers specified, would it help prolong the engine’s lifespan?
Thanks Lake, interesting video! How about a vid showing how Kendall GT-1 changed when doing from titanium to Liquitek formulation? Merry Christmas to you!
I never saw Mobil 1 that was not available in multiple viscosities. I have used it in every vehicle from my 74 Hornet, to my 91 Cadilac to my current 2018 Jeep Cherokee. My Hornet used single 20 or 30 viscosity. My later vehicles, starting with a 76 CJ-7 usually had 10w 30, My current Jeep uses 5w20. At 300,000 miles we tore down my 76 Jeep's engine to do a valve job and replace the original timing chain and gears. While at it we decided to completely tear it down to check wear and do an upgrade. Very little wear on the main or connecting rod bearings, still within spec. No measurable wear on the cam lobes. The original cross hatching was still on the cylinder walls. We replaced all the bearings, rings and upgraded to a Cliffor research cam, to match the Clifford Research 4 barrel intake manifold with 350 cfm Holley carburetor. What was strange was that we not only got a power boost from the change, but my MPG went from a combined average of 18 mpg to 20 mpg. I was expecting a drop in fuel economy with the larger 4 barrel carb.
Another great video, really interesting. I have been told that I should switch from my VR1 20W50 to Havoline Pro S (now Fuchs Titan Race Pro S) 15w50. I can't find a test from you on this oil? My application is a medium-high lift flat tappet Rover V8 in a street performance car, oil changes every 4k miles.
Hey Lake! Would love to see a video about aviation oils for your common horizontally opposed air cooled 4 and 6 cylinder engines and how they differ from automotive oils!
They are large, some over 500 cu inches, air cooled, slow running, but at a continuous 2,000 to 2,500 or so rpm, leaded fuel burning engines. The lead from the fuel doesn't like to stay suspended in synthetic oil. So Av oils are primarily conventional.
First used it in a VW Rabbit back in mid 80s. Have never had an engine issue related to lubrication, either using Mobil 1 or any other of the probably dozen oils I've used over the years.
Don't think this is necessarily your field of expertise, but I'm interested in seeing a unbiased third party comparison or diesel fuel additives. I am specifically interested in Lucus upper cylinder lubricant, hot shots EDT, EDT with anti-gel, Amsoil injector clean, and all in one
I had a 1977 air cooled VW bus, which, although in excellent condition, VW, in the owner manual, stated that oil consumption could be as high as 600 miles/qt, under highway conditions with hot weather. Sure enough, using either std straight 30 or 10-30 (worse than 30) a mid summer trip south, including climbing Skyline Drive with 6 adults, it did use oil at that rate. I tried M1 15-50, and the consumption dropped to ~1200 miles/qt- very impressive. And, I noticed much less deposits on the inside of the rocker covers during valve adjustments. I now use M1-15-50 in all air-cooled lawn eqt, and in my flat-tappet hot rod engine, with no valve clearance anomalies noted in 40k miles of high-revving (due to high ratio rear gear), and pulls to at least 5.5 grand an estimated 1000+ times. Of course, I do not know if anything even better is out there (that can be easily purchased- I get this stuff locally- and is reasonably affordable); maybe this guy has that info somewhere. - PM
Love motul, they make some wicked good stuff! Even before you get into their ester based offerings or the 300V race oils, their 5w40 8100 X-cess is used by so many people in their tuned turbo cars that get driven pretty hard
My dad worked for Mobil at their field research lab in Dallas. I still have an unopened can of the original Mobil 1.
That's awesome!
I’d buy that for a dollar!
I'd love to have a can of old-school Mobil 1 on the shelf in my garage, but it's probably going to be $50 on eBay ;-(
I’m using 10w-30 Truck & SUV in the old Ford 300 6 .
Everyone says add a bottle of ZDDP due to flat tappet cam. Sticking with the oil only.
Also use in the GM 8.1L and Jeep 3.6.
Excellent review.
Would be good to have an hour review video on all the various references and how they interact. Zinc Mag calcium. All the letters referenced. A layman’s class on oil.
You should make a video of all your vehicles and feature them on your channel @billthrasher3437 @billbrasher3437
Whenever I watch one of your videos I learn something new. Thanks for doing what you do, Lake!
Thanks!
After 487,000 miles I measured the cylinder compression on my 1992 Toyota pickup engine that had run Mobil 1 10W-30 or 10W-40 all of its life. 190 PSI on all cylinders - just like a new engine + 20 extra psi due to normal carbon buildup.. Next I examined the most wear prone parts of the valve train - the tips of the valve adjustment screws that contact the top of each valve stem. Normally those tips develop wear indentations over time, but my Mobil 1 screws remained unworn. Next I looked at camshaft lobes and rocker arm pads - no scratches, ridges or other indications of wear. Lastly, the engine still passed Calif smog testing by a huge margin still running its factory original catalytic converter. I changed the Mobil 1 every 4,000 miles.
I believe everything u stated, especially since u changed oil at 4 thou, one thing u should learn is compression is one thing, but cylinder leakdown is a better measurement as a before and after. As long as valves and gaskets r not leaking. But valves and gaskets r trie about a compression check too. JS
To the response on leak down is better, a running compression test is quicker and provides better real life readings as volumetric efficiency decreases. It takes time and extra equipment to do a leak down test, I still own one from SnapOn but not everybody is racing or going to drop $300-$400 on a new leakage tester. Unless you are doing two-stroke boat engines. Don’t forget the power adders from turbo, super chargers that typically have the largest ring end gap if built for this application. Those won’t do anything on a leak down test unless you have a build sheet with before and after numbers. Just a thought.
@deankay4434 i hear u. But I have a oldd chevy v8. It's compression is around 210 psi, but leakdown is at least 40 % on all cylinders. I don't need a. Before like new reading to see how much wear is involved with rings and cylinders. Only trying to get people to understand that just cause your compression is up there doesn't mean u don't have excessive wear. And that's how much better a leakdown tester is to a serious mechanic. THANKS SMOKEY
I have had excellent UOAs on a few 5W-30 spec cars running Mobil 1 0W-40. While I have found oils my european cars prefer, I have owned a half dozen cars that saw nothing but Mobil 1 0W-40 with excellent results.
Every 4K miles? That's a LOT of $$ over almost 500K! Never took the engine apart but my Mitsubishi 4-banger got oil changes 1-2 times a year from 1993-2018 and ran as good at the end as it did at the start. Looking into the opening in the valve cover where you pour in the oil was always like looking into a brand new engine.
Ooooo, brand in-depth testing, this is awesome 👍
Thanks!
This is a very cool video. My dad started using Mobil 1 when it first came out and I have continued the tradition.
Thanks!
As a long time user and early adopter of Mobil One, I can attest to the long term performance and benefit of using this product. I have owned a 2006 Honda Odyssey since new and switched to Mobil One after the break in oil was changed (at about 500 miles as I recall). It just passed the 355,000 mile mark and is running perfectly. Along the way I have of course replaced all the various component seals and gaskets, and I had reason to pull the oil pan and valve covers at the 300K mileage super service. I was astounded as there was zero sludge in both and short of some yellowing which I assume must be related to a light varnishing, everything was amazingly clean and tight. Remarkably the valve lash was still in spec! I have changed the oil and filter at the factory oil reminder intervals and only three times do I recall using another brand of synthetic as I could not obtain mobil one. Even though the seals are all replaced, I still use the high mileage variant. BTW, I have used Fram "cheapo" filters primarily but have also tried just about very other brand of filter. While I can't say one has performed better than the others, I have never experienced any sort of failure with even the low end fram filter. I expect this engine to make it to 500,000 miles, maybe even longer. I attribute that to diligent maintenance and the superior performance of Mobil One oil.
I have a 2006 Honda Element that just turned 400,000 miles. Have used Pennzoil synthetic 5W-20 in it since new. Still does not consume oil nor does it leak any. I have always had it serviced at the dealer I bought it from at the intervals Honda recommends. That little 2.4L engine is one of the best Honda has ever made. Bullet proof.
I think that's more of a tribute to Honda's engineering that the oil. Every time I've lost an engine; it had Mobile 1 in it. Now these were racing situations, and it was always a bearing.
Did you check valve lash yourself. I have a 3.5 L , just wondering how complex it may be. I’m not as proficient as a lot of others that dig this deep into their own maintenance.
I got 575,000 out of my Volvo 940 with Mobil 1.....changing every 10,000 miles.
Thanks for sharing!
best oil information on the internet, thanks!!!
Thank you!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Lake.
Merry Christmas to you and yours as well!
I was a mechanic on the Alaska pipeline in 1988 when Mobil 1 was awarded the lubrication contract. Part of that deal was we doubled oil change intervals with a guarantee of extended service life of the equipment. Servicing that equipment made a believer of me. I already knew how well my personal two strokes responded, had been on Bel Ray since the mid 70’s. I have used and recommended synthetics. They never let me down.
Here in New Zealand they cut off the extended drain intervals to vehicle manufacturers change interval.
Only Amsoil can handle long drain.
@@conmanumber1 It’s interesting the government of New Zealand got involved but my question would be how did they arrive at this conclusion? Did they use lab testing or stick their finger in it for a look see? Generally, it’s going to be the manufacturer of the engine as most government officials can’t tie shoes. Thank god for Velcro!
This is the only channel I look forward to making a new video. Keep it up, Lake!
Wow, thanks!
My dad has been running Mobil 1 since the mid-70s, and I've been running it since 1991. It's worked awesome for both of us with excellent results, and it's easy to find and not overly expensive. There might be better stuff out there, but I'm pretty loyal customer after 33 years.
Your videos are always very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to make them for us.
Glad you like them!
Awesome content. I have been using Mobil 1 for many, many years. This also proves to me that Mobil does what they say they are doing or what the product is formulated for. I recently started using Mobil Delvac 1 full synthetic in my new tractor for a year now. It really made a difference. What I would love to see on your channel sometime is a comparison of conventional Diesel engine oils and a comparison of full synthetic Diesel engine oils. Thanks again Lake for a great educational video.
Thanks for the great data as usual. The original ads for Mobil 1 got me hooked on M-1. Couldn’t afford it back then in college. But switched to it exclusively when I built my first SB in 1982. I’ll switch over to 5w-20 Truck and SUV in my 22 year old Ford 4.6. Keep the great content coming!
I chose the wrong career path, I should be doing what Lake does. Fascinating
Thanks!
Talk about added value, taking out deception and arming consumer, thank you for sharing
Lake, I can’t express the gratitude I have for you giving us this top-tier channel. Thank you.
Thanks! More to come this year!
This is good information, Lake. Is it possible to perform these same tests on Valvoline and Pennzoil motor oils? Would love to see those. Thanks for doing this! Always interesting and educational.
Be surprised if Pennzoil isn’t as goodor better
Yes and also Castrol Edge black bottle.
Been using M1 oils for 47 years with outstanding results in various engines, mostly Fords. 91 Ford Ranger 3.0 with 354 k, to my presant 2007 Ford Fusion 2.3 with 356 k. All at 10K OCIs.
Thank you for your channel. I’ve been in the industry for 20 years and learn something new every time I watch your videos.
Thank you so much. I’m glad it is helpful.
I enjoy learning about the differences in motor oils. Still don’t understand where sooner of these synthetics come from, but it still cool learning about it. Your editing skills are getting pretty sharp to I must say.
You are a great educator and entertainer 👍🏻
I appreciate that!
my neighbor moved to a seniors home and asked if i wanted all the oils and fluids he had in the garage because he wasn't going to be able to use them. gave me a few dozen sealed tin cans of modil, golf and a esso motor and trans oils. obviously never going to use them but still super cool so i built a display shelf in the lobby of my shop to show them off
Things like that are cool to see!
That’s cool
Great add to the oil video catalog! I've leered at the potpurri of Mobil 1 oils on the shelf and pondered possible differences. Glad to hear there IS a difference, yet sad at the same time. In principle, I COMPLETELY agree application dictates chemistry. And, it follows that choice should be backed by testing. However, I can neither perform chemical analysis or afford a test program to independently verify and choose an oil. So these videos are an exclusive resource. I'll likely be switching to the RV/Truck blend in my tow vehicle- thanks. I was a bit let down that one of the oils specified for one of my rides, Advanced Fuel Economy, was not included in the group. I get it, 2 arms, 2 legs, 24 hours in a day, there's a limit to how much can get done. Keep up the good videos!
Thank you so much!
Really enjoy the honest science you crank out with your channel, Lake! Thank you for what you do.
I’m currently going down the rabbit hole of increasing oil capacity via a larger pan or larger and/or dual filters in a daily. I’d be interested in seeing a video on the pros/cons!
Thanks for watching and for the suggestion!
Thanks for the great information! Mobile 1 Truck & SUV for the Win!
Excellent video! Thank you, Gilbert/Lewis!
Thanks for watching!
When I was a kid my father had a few Texaco gas stations. I remember using and selling havoline , then I switched myself to mobil-1. Thanks for the video!
Great information Lake, love the science, as a motorcycle rider I would like to see some motorcycle oil comparisons, keep up the good work
Started my Mobile 1 journey with a new '86 Vette. Used it in all my gas engines ever since. Had over 300k miles in my S430 and was still running strong when I sold it.
Thanks!
Thank you!
I trust what you say because of your dad and your history and because you are a cool dude telling things like it is.
Thanks!
As a private pilot and piston-aircraft owner in the late 1990s, everything in those days was AV-1, the aircraft version of Mobil-1. Best thing since sliced bread - until it wasn't. Engines, especially the big-bore Continentals, started blowing up. Not a fun thing to happen while you're flying! Since aircraft engines are pricey, Mobil faces a flurry of lawsuits, finally agreeing to replace thousands of customer's engines that met their criteria.
The problem, as I recall, was that piston aircraft gas was very high lead content. Something in the oil made the lead precipitate out of the fuel and collect in every valley of the engine castings. Taking off the valve covers, obvious grey puddles of sludge could be seen in all the low spots.
I don't believe AV-1 even exists any longer.
AV1 could not suspend the lead that collected in the sumps from ring blow by. It was much worse in Continentals than Lycomings. I used mineral based Philips 66 for this reason in my plane.
Good stuff Lake,love your videos,best in the industry on facts
First used Mobil 1 in the metal can approx. 1978 or 1979. Had a Ford Gran Torino sport with a 351 Cleveland engine Immediatly got 10% better mpg and noticably more power. Wasn't available locally so had to get when we visited the mother-in-law. Think it was $10 per quart when regular oil was bout a dollar a quart. Well worth it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!!. I actually reached out to Mobil 1 a couple of years ago regarding their various offerings of a specific viscosity and the respective differences. The official answer I got from Mobil 1 was they didn't know/ weren't sure....now I/we know!!! Glad to see they are different formulations and not just a ploy to have a higher shelf space presence with the same thing labelled 5 different ways. Two more video requests 1)Maybe a head to head comparison on 'performance' brands with diehard fanbases e.g. Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs etc. along with more common off the shelf stuff like Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennszoil and see the differences. 2)More on the history of oil. I love the great content and look forward to future installments.
Thanks! Those suggestions are noted.
This is a fantastic test format. You should do this for each major manufactures oil lines. it would probably change their marketing and even formulations. Lake lifting the veil!
Thanks!
Lake - It was great seeing you and your Dad at VIR this fall! Thx for the video/learnings.
Thanks!
I personally have been using mobil-1 for 30 years and never had any oil issues.
Another awesome bit of information, Lake.
Watching Lake spit facts with nothing but brute force empiricism is a very rare and special gift for TH-cam.
Thank you!
When you get the time can you do an engine block heater video discussing reducing engine strain. This could be a theoretical discussion or a real life test. Anyways keep up the great work 🎉
I'd like to see that as well.
All of today’s modern synthetic oils are so much better than the oils available 40 years ago. Pick any brand you want. Use the proper viscosity and change in in reasonable time and you’ll never have an engine failure due to oil.
🔥
i was a fuel tanker driver for 11 years exxon mobile always makes sure the testing and quality are better than the standaard they set.
they always do it better than required . also Exxon Mobile is very safe and employes tens of thousands very well paid Americans..
Lake, we are picking up a new 2025 Honda Pilot after we lost out CRV due to an inattentive driver.
I intend to follow your recommendation and change the oil in the first 1,000 miles.
I'm planning on using a factory oil filter and Honda oil on the first change.
Any recommendations on other oils ?
This is the first direct injection engine I've owned, my Toyota truck is both direct and port injection.
We plan on keeping this vehicle a long time and and I'll change the oil every 5K miles as I do on my truck.
I really enjoy watching your channel and gaining knowledge.
I'm an old kart racer myself and we ran enduro karts all through the late 70's all the way through the 80's.
I remember your dad winning the World Championship and what a huge deal it was for an American driver to win against the Europeans, made us American kart racers proud.
Sorry to hear about the accident. Hopefully everyone is ok.
In regards to the 2025 Honda Pilot, here is the proper framework for making decisions regarding oil.
Step 1 - Utilize the OEM recommended oil and do two early oil changes during the break-in process (500 to 1,000 miles and again between 3,000 and 4,000 miles). If the engine is already broken-in, skip to step 3.
Step 2 - Take used oil samples at each oil change to establish the trend analysis.
Step 3 - Go 5,000 miles on the third oil change and take a used oil sample. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. If the wear rate is between 5 ppm and 10 ppm per 1,000 miles, go another 5,000 miles on the OEM recommended oil and resample. If the wear rate is still greater than 5 ppm per 1,000 miles, then move to step 4.
Step 4 - Review the used oil analysis data to see if the OEM recommended oil is falling short in any aspect (low viscosity, additive depletion, higher wear rate). If it is falling short, try a different oil of the same viscosity that meets the OEM spec. Go 3,000 to 4,000 miles on that oil and then refill with that same oil and go another 5,000 miles before taking another sample. See if the change in brand drops the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm. If it does, you are good. If it does not, then move to Step 5.
Step 5 - Since the change in brand did not get the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm, use next higher viscosity grade of whichever oil had the lowest wear rate per 1,000 miles. If it was the non-OEM brand, resample at 5,000 miles to check the wear rate per 1,000 miles. If it was the OEM brand, you will need to use it for 3,000 to 4,000 miles to flush the non-OEM oil out of the system before going 5,000 miles on the higher viscosity OEM oil to take another sample. If either higher viscosity oil brings the wear rate down, then stay with that viscosity grade. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is still above 5 ppm, go back to Step 4 and repeat. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. You can then use the oil analysis results to fine tune the oil change interval.
@@themotoroilgeek, thank you, we just picked it up today and I'll follow up your recommendations.
That was superb. Outstanding presentation. I always thought that different label were just marketing hype. I am now properly informed!
I didn't try Mobil 1 until I bought my '97 4 Runner back in '97. But the first synthetic oil I used was Klotz Techniplate synthetic for my first motorcycle. Right away I could tell a difference. There was less mechanical noises coming from the engine. BTW I still have my 4 Runner. It has over 431k miles. Doesn't lose any oil between 5k mile oil interval changes.
Hey Lake, thanks for another great, informative, and entertaining video. I appreciate you and the content you put out. Stay blessed! Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your loved ones!
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.
Used it for years in my own cars, toyota vvtli, Mercedes, 3.5 v6, volvo d5 and jaguar xfr 5.0 v8 sc, audi 1.4tfsi. Never had any issues.
Love it! been using it over 30 Years!
This was really informative. It seems a timing chain engine with hydraulic roller followers needs a more shear-stable oil than a simpler timing belt engine with mechanical followers. And the truck/SUV blend is good for any gas engine that really scorches its engine oil.
Use that C40 GT in the Porsche 992 GT3 Cups and GT4 RS Clubsport I race.
Fun fact, Porsche recommends a 5,000 oil change interval ON TRACK. Basically, its the factory fill for 5k miles and then a single change, run again, replace engine. I kid you not. Now I'm not an expert but we're changing the oil every weekend as leaving all that wear metal in there regardless of oil quality and viscosity just seems much smarter when replacement engine are north of $70,000.
Man I love your stuff! But I’m begging you! PLEASE do an oil analysis video with Pennzoils new platinum 15,000 mile formula vs the old one. I’m curious to see how they’re making that claim and if they ruined the OLD platinum formula by dumping a bunch of unnecessary detergents just to make the 15,000 claim
I took over a Mobil franchise in 1982. I was required by Mobil to buy 50 24quart cases of Mobil one it came in metal cans we had big leaking problems. The oil would even leak out of the cans before we opened it that’s why I think they went to metal cans mobil one has come a long way today. we used to refer to the cans silver bullets
Been using Mobil 1 for 30 years from air-cooled Porsche race motors to water-cooled race motors to my everyday drivers. Great oil, never an issuie and i have the oil analysis to back it up.
WOW, thank you so much for this video. Very interesting as always ! Glad to have seen the differences between the Mobil 1 Supercar and the new Mobil 1 C40 GT.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Lake. We even watch you in New Zealand
In Australia too.
India, I’m sure there are viewers all over the world with the quality of content he’s got.
Awesome! New Zealand is a beautiful country with great people!
Also on Mexico!
Mobil 1 was the first synthetic motor oil introduced into the UK in the mid-70's. I was a professional chemist working in the polymer industry so I adopted Mobil 1 for my cars and bikes as I understood the chemistry, even though Mobil 1 was 5x the cost of equivalent mineral oil.
At the launch of Mobil 1, each can came with a leaflet which explained the basic chemistry and stated that you could extend your manufacturer recommended oil change intervals by a factor of at least 2 or 3 providing the filter was changed according to manufacturer spec. After all these years, I can't remember the exact wording but I certainly went to 2 and 3 times, depending upon the type of engine, for all my cars and bikes.
Of course, in those days, manufacturer oil change recommendations were all based on mineral oil and were typically 3k to 6k miles. Modern cars oil change recommendations are usually based on synthetic oil and, for my cars and bikes, range from 10k to 25k miles so I guess that, all other things being equal, the Mobil 1 recommendation to 2x or 3x extended mileage has stood the test of time.
Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 Mr. Lake. Oil on, sir!!
Merry Christmas!
3:40 I remember the ‘seal compatibility issues’… I called them ‘leaks’. A manager of a tire and lube shop floated the theory that the oil was so slippery, that it was ‘slipping’ past the seals …😢
😆😆😆😆😆
I've heard similar things, I've read that a lot of this started after WW2 as they had pushed development hard during the war so old cars had issues when they started using these new chemistries that cleaned better. There was also the issue Lake talked about with seals that 'didn't agree'.
But I have experienced the opposite, a switch to synthetic (and thinner) made it leak less. 😄
Early synthetic base oils and cork gaskets. Pure leakage.
“Slipping past the seals” I remember that too.
@@EvzenKovar-i5p well, I'm glad they fessed up to it, (this is the first I heard) thanks to Lake for dissecting all the technical stuff
back in 1987/9 fresh out of the Marines, i took my savings and bought a mustang 5.0 LX, i used only mobil 1 for its entire, illegal street racing life..LOVE MOBIL ONE
I used the same in my 92 LX 5.0. Mine is not currently running but that is not due to the motor.
im so curious for you to do an Amsoil video, im wanting to change to it and see if its worth the extra cost..thanks for your knowledge of oil, its fascinating..
Incredible just incredible! Science = Knowledge, Knowledge = Winning 🏁 Thanks bud keep it up!
My first Mobil 1 change was that tri synthetic 10w30 , 1996. Still changed it every 5k miles
Yes....I remember buying M1 in the silver metal cans.....
Yep, for some reason it was branded Mobil SHC in the UK when I first started using it in 1984.
You literally had to order it through a Mobil garage…. that’s how difficult it was to get hold of.
Always remember it smelt like ping pong balls 😳
I remember it well too...remember using can openers.... then along came the plunge n pierce spouts. Aaah, that was progress 👏
Started using Mobil 1, in 1978on our 2door Subaru. We took it to Yellowstone from Michigan. Didn’t use a drop! The biggest difference in this car was when I changed the transmission fluid to synthetic AMSOIL. Wow, the mileage jumped from 22mpg to 35 mpg in a Michigan winter.
The FTIR spectrophotometer is also my favorite device. The video is cool as always.
Always great info, thank-you!
Would love to see a shoot out with the various performance grade 0w-40 oils for the forced induction V8 group. So many theories on PUP vs M1 or other brands based on OEM suggested oils.
Great suggestion!
I am a big fan of Motul full synthetic motor oils for 10+ years, specifically their 8100 ECO-LITE 5W-30 Motor Oil since it has extra additives for LSPI for my 1.6T GDi Gamma motor. Motul also carries a series of synthetic oils just like M1 called the 8100 series, which they claim as "The Swiss Army Knife of motor oils". Would love to see a similar comparison with any of Motul’s synth oils.
We see great results from Motul products.
Motul 8100 eco-lite це повністю гідрокрекінг VHVI, з додаваням малого віцотку PAO, в ньому немає складних ефірів
Hi Lake. Thanks for the great video and all the hard work to find important details. I need to ask if u know... On the supercar 5w50...do u know if it's also pao/Ester? Because I wanted to use it on a particular engine w 3000 mile oil changes. The 0w40 is a really good base formula and additives but it's thinner than I need. When I look at the msds on the 5/50 supercar it appears to have some gtl maybe? But list no pao. But the 0w40 suoercar does list pao. I would really like to know for sure on the 5w50 and thought I'd ask if u knew for sure. Thanks so much!
The 5W-50 does not appear to be a typical PAO/Ester blend.
Thank u...
I have used Mobil 1 since 1977. I used Amsoil before Mobil 1. Because of the prices, I started long change intervals a few months later. No problems to now. I am completely satisfied.
Used Mobile 1 in my VAG cars for years. When Penzoil Platinum came out, on sale, I tried it. Much better gas mileage so I’ve staid with the Platinum or Ultra. The Ultra is a harder to find in the viscosity wanted. ✌️
BMW Europe opts for Shell Helix Ultra 0W-30 as the factory fill, and Belgian dealers rely on Shell as well. Helix Ultra, by the way, is branded as Pennzoil in other markets.
I pay roughly $40 for a 5-liter can (around 5 quarts).
For air-cooled engines like Honda's GXV160, the options are more limited. I source Amsoil SS Diesel 10W-30 from Germany because it maintains optimal engine temperature, unlike Redline 10W-30, which tends to overheat these engines.
In Europe, Mobil Super 2000 X1 10W-40 is also widely available and performs well.
Oil isn't just oil, every formulation matters.
The MOG offers us all the information needed, as a civil engineer I like his approach and in depth knowledge.
Anyway. Happy holidays & Christmas ⛄.
I would love to see a test like this with Motul and Liqui Moly, as they have many different types of oils as well
That Lari is beautiful, love the black package with Oxford white.I have a 19 Lari with 502a package, truck drives amazing and 3.5 been awesome 128,000kms
Yeah, I started out working as a tech in 1988 and remember for several years Mobil was the only in store on the shelf synthetic oil available. Most of the Euro vehicles labeled their oil caps for it too. I still use it sometimes since it's often on sale cheap at Walmart. Or the Walmart brand.
The Super Tech is Mobil I
@@willg.5168 Actually, Warren makes Supertech.
I took alot of heat adding alkylated napthaline to my engine oil every oil change which is basically "Moterkote " Glad to see this additive being used in modern engine oils ! It should tho be added to the oil analysis list !
You should just use a better oil that doesn't need additives. Adding stuff to your oil dilutes the balance.
Motorkote contains chlorine based antiwear. When confronted they lie and state no chlorinated anything. Bs. It’s an insane antiwear additive with a big downside. It will eat the engine by form of corrosion.
Great comparison in these Mobil 1 oils and applications
It would be good so have a comparison of Amsoil produces as they just like this oil would appreciate it.
Have a Merry Christmas to you and your family 🎄
Ya hooked me. Great channel and content. Keep it up
Awesome! Thank you!
For not being a fan of oil marketing, your videos sure do make me want to go out and buy oil! 😅
Thanks for imparting so much knowledge!
I wish that Lakes teaching would have been included in my high school science classes.
It really makes me wish I’d have studied more in science.
Thanks!
Turbine engine oil has a shelf life limit. Long ago I spoke with a remote operator and he explained how he extended shelf life by refrigeration of his turbine oil. Hey another video idea! Take turbine oil, same container, three samples. One kept at -15 degC. One in lawn shed going up and down in temperature, one artificially aged at say 120 degC. All sealed containers. Wait one year.
Test for oxidation.
Great video Lake,...please do the same comparison with Castrol Edge black bottle 20,000 mile oil,gold bottle 25,000 mile oil ,and full synthetic GTX...thanks.
Great stuff!
It may be also interesting for us mere mortals to see some analysis of few high milleage oils and comparision with non-high millage equivalents in the same SAE grade. I saw you already done one for Penzil. Here is nice comparision on Mobil 1 even if it is slightly different SAE grade.
I'm still on the fence with one of our cars. It have 90k miles now and so far I was using full synthetic 0W40 but considering if I should continue with non high-millage full sythetics or switch to High Millage ones. No leaks or oil burning so far.
It's great to see guys like you with real passion share such a goodies! Thanks!
You probably don't need the high mileage.
I like this, especially gmas, someone who mostly uses mobil 1. I favor the extended performance with the idea that I am giving the engine that extra protection( I'd hope it is offering that). I still change my oil every 5-7 k miles
hello Lake, I always learn something new from your videos, I am a mechanic and did take chemistry at Vanderbilt U, so I can understand about half of it, since I found your channel I have nothing but yellow jugs of Pennsoil ultra platinum in my garage for the daily drivers and VR1 for my old hotrod camaro going to go with that unless you tell me something else
Thanks for sharing
I use the FTIR almost every day at work. I would love to be able to breakdown samples more like you can by looking at the scans.
Another great video. I do wish he would do a specific video on oil for turbocharged vehicles and the effects the turbo has on oil.
Its only heat beeakdown. Same test for oxidation.
@@mandytuningnot just heat break down. Turbo chargers also require higher shear as well. Ever seen what oil looks like coming out of a turbo charger’s drain? It’s frothed up like cappuccino. I have owned A LOT of turbo charged cars since the 80s. The main thing to know is you can’t change your oil too often. The number one turbo killer is dirty oil.
@stevemccauley5734 i have built turbo cars since there was no fuel injected turbos, running amsoil for decades and they never failed. But yea,lazy customers with high oil drian intervals or cheap oils cooked and bake very badly
Thanks for the video. Can you recommend a good machine shop in Los Angeles or in Southern California? Thanks again for the video
i remember back in the 80's living in the Yukon and we would get -50 celcius in the winter. We ran Mobile 1 because all the other oils available would be like tar in the cold weather leading to damaged bearings. Another problem was the Diffs oil was so thick you almost needed 4x4 to get the vehicle moving so it was a game changer when synthetic gear oil came out. I must say i was totally confused when they started labelling it with 5w30 ,10w30,ets. I had yet to find someone that can explain to me why they did this and for that reason what was the original mobil 1. it was originally marked to us in the north as not changing its pourability in the cold temps so you would have instant oil pressure which was proven by the freezer tests. a lot of racers used to use it in their automatic trans for the same reason of not breaking down and changing thickness when hot. this putting numbers the same as conventional oil still baffles me.Lakespeed jr. I would like to thank for all your great work and info you bring to the automotive industry and its a great contribution. Thanks
In the late 70's I bought a 54' Pontiac Straight Flathead 8 from the original owner (my neighbor) and it didn't burn a drop of oil. No knocking or ticking. I ran cheap oil back then. I've been using Rotella T6 (since it came out) in everything I own 2 Diesels ⛽️ Samurai, plus every small engine. Use whatever oil makes you happy but change it on a regular basis. Thanks Lake, I really enjoy your channel
I enjoy your videos and appreciate the opportunity to expand my knowledge. If possible, could you do a segment on VW-specific oils? I’m particularly interested in VW 508/509, which is only available in 0W-20. From my understanding, according to the internet, it was developed primarily for fuel efficiency.
I’m currently out of warranty on my 2019 Tiguan 2.0 turbo and would like to know how reliable the 508/509 oil is in terms of engine longevity. Also, if changing the oil weight to something other than what the engineers specified, would it help prolong the engine’s lifespan?
Thanks Lake, interesting video! How about a vid showing how Kendall GT-1 changed when doing from titanium to Liquitek formulation? Merry Christmas to you!
I never saw Mobil 1 that was not available in multiple viscosities. I have used it in every vehicle from my 74 Hornet, to my 91 Cadilac to my current 2018 Jeep Cherokee. My Hornet used single 20 or 30 viscosity. My later vehicles, starting with a 76 CJ-7 usually had 10w 30, My current Jeep uses 5w20. At 300,000 miles we tore down my 76 Jeep's engine to do a valve job and replace the original timing chain and gears. While at it we decided to completely tear it down to check wear and do an upgrade. Very little wear on the main or connecting rod bearings, still within spec. No measurable wear on the cam lobes. The original cross hatching was still on the cylinder walls. We replaced all the bearings, rings and upgraded to a Cliffor research cam, to match the Clifford Research 4 barrel intake manifold with 350 cfm Holley carburetor. What was strange was that we not only got a power boost from the change, but my MPG went from a combined average of 18 mpg to 20 mpg. I was expecting a drop in fuel economy with the larger 4 barrel carb.
Another great video, really interesting. I have been told that I should switch from my VR1 20W50 to Havoline Pro S (now Fuchs Titan Race Pro S) 15w50. I can't find a test from you on this oil? My application is a medium-high lift flat tappet Rover V8 in a street performance car, oil changes every 4k miles.
Hey Lake! Would love to see a video about aviation oils for your common horizontally opposed air cooled 4 and 6 cylinder engines and how they differ from automotive oils!
They are large, some over 500 cu inches, air cooled, slow running, but at a continuous 2,000 to 2,500 or so rpm, leaded fuel burning engines. The lead from the fuel doesn't like to stay suspended in synthetic oil. So Av oils are primarily conventional.
First used it in a VW Rabbit back in mid 80s. Have never had an engine issue related to lubrication, either using Mobil 1 or any other of the probably dozen oils I've used over the years.
Don't think this is necessarily your field of expertise, but I'm interested in seeing a unbiased third party comparison or diesel fuel additives. I am specifically interested in Lucus upper cylinder lubricant, hot shots EDT, EDT with anti-gel, Amsoil injector clean, and all in one
I had a 1977 air cooled VW bus, which, although in excellent condition, VW, in the owner manual, stated that oil consumption could be as high as 600 miles/qt, under highway conditions with hot weather. Sure enough, using either std straight 30 or 10-30 (worse than 30) a mid summer trip south, including climbing Skyline Drive with 6 adults, it did use oil at that rate. I tried M1 15-50, and the consumption dropped to ~1200 miles/qt- very impressive. And, I noticed much less deposits on the inside of the rocker covers during valve adjustments. I now use M1-15-50 in all air-cooled lawn eqt, and in my flat-tappet hot rod engine, with no valve clearance anomalies noted in 40k miles of high-revving (due to high ratio rear gear), and pulls to at least 5.5 grand an estimated 1000+ times. Of course, I do not know if anything even better is out there (that can be easily purchased- I get this stuff locally- and is reasonably affordable); maybe this guy has that info somewhere. - PM
You gotta test out Motul next just like how you tested Mobil One
Love motul, they make some wicked good stuff! Even before you get into their ester based offerings or the 300V race oils, their 5w40 8100 X-cess is used by so many people in their tuned turbo cars that get driven pretty hard