I'm don't think the QR lever could ever get caught in the brake disk if the wheel lever was appropriately tightened. I believe it was user error/carelessness on the part of the user.
I literally went to check my 2019 Rad City to see which way the quick release handle was on, and it's not even on the side with the disc brake, and I've taken it on and off DOZENS of times. Personally I think this might get chalked up to 'User Error'.
I think you're right about user error. Your QR is mounted the wrong way. They are customarily installed on the left side of the bike, which is the side with discs. I don't think it's an issue but it's done the other way because, in the rear the lever could get tangled in the derailleur.
@@michaelsprinzeles4022 Honestly it's entirely possible that when I first got the bike (or after some other moment), I installed it on the side with the disc and thought "This seems like a dumb idea" and changed sides. I also tend to dismount my bike on the right side, so that may have been my subconscious thought as well.
Just like everybody else commented that is the user's fault and his or her responsibility to tighten the screw axle properly. According to the manufacture specifications you must tighten with the palm of your hand leaves a red mark on your hand. if you leave it half loose it is on you and not the manufacturer.
I don't see how the quick release lever could get caught in the brake disc while the bike is moving forward. I think he grabbed the front brake way too hard thereby causing the wheel to lock up and causing the rider and bike to go head over heels! Operator error.
I did exactly this when I was younger, hit the brake hard, to avoid a person in front of me (we were on a group ride on a Gulf Island BC coast). Went over the handlebars, broke my wrist.
that happened to me when I was test driving a bike from the pawn shop! I made a perfect head-over-heels rollover the front wheel, and arose with no injuries! It was like a TikTok or a stunt shot!
Sadly most people do not know the correct way to secure the front wheel on a quick release type system. ....and this includes some retailers . Simple solution is to install the skewer handle opposite the disc side and adjust the finger nut side so that the handle engages half way to full lock. Wheels with quick release levers work on a cam/sqeeze type system for engagement not a spin the lever like a screw manner that some folks employ.
@@raczyk Basic "rule of thumb" is that the QR handle should leave a mark on your hand when you push it into the Closed position. If not, then the nut is not tight enough. Something that bicyclists either learn from experience, never do at all, or do wrong (Such as using the QR lever like a wrench to tighten the axle).
@@davebrown9725 I assume it's better to over tighten then to under tighted the QR lever? What's the drawback of over tightining the QR lever to tighten the axle?
It is almost impossible to overtighten a QR axle, the lever is only 3" or less, so there is only so much hand force possible. Generally friction and lever force will stop an overly tight lever from fully closing, that is how you know when to back off the nut slightly and try again. If you were to severely overtighten, stripping the axle nut or breaking an axle might occur when riding hard or otherwise causing extra (now excessive) force on the wheel, that otherwise would never occur.
The first time I bought a bike with disc brakes and a quick release lever, the salesman showed me how to align the lever with the fork so that it would never accidentally open or contact the disc brake. At some point, consumers have to be smart enough to follow common sense advice, or everything will cease to be manufactured just because one person had no common sense and got hurt and got a lawyer.
We are three friends (ages 60-80) that travel together that own 3 different models of Rad ebikes. We tow them all over the country to ride trails. We ride locally also. We've never had any issues (even after riding on semi rough - non paved trails). This sounds like user error.
The wheel coming off is user error, you must tighten the nut to the appropriate level so when you fold the lever you make it tight, and you must make sure that you adjust to the location where the lever folds so that it does not make itself a hazard for object to snag on it and undo it.
If you have common sense which this guy obviously is lacking you check that quick release lever and make sure its tight and not going to get caught on anything . Sick of this litigation obsessed country .
What BS! QR skewers have been around a long time. I'm riding on a pair of skewers that was over a decade old when I converted my bike to e-. Perhaps there is a minor issue but a properly tightened skewer won't release randomly. It kills me that people with no knowledge of bike mechanics can have a bike drop shipped direct to their doors and then the road. Caveat emptor! If you don't know about bikes and can't take the time to learn take your bike to professional mechanic.
The majority of people that ride bicycles don’t know how to work on them. I think a company should make bulletproof designs since most people are not mechanically inclined.
@@eastwood111 I can't disagree but think the bikes resemble bullet proof already, IF assembled properly. They are, after all, vehicles. If you can't maintain your own vehicle there are professionals happy to do it for you (for a price). IMO it's worth some investment, of effort or money, not to fly over your handlebars.
The RAD assembly instructions specify that the quick release goes on the RIGHT side away from the disk brake! How can you enforce correct procedures when TLDR is a common expression? (Too long, didn't read.)
I have been riding RADs since 2017. The biggest myth about e-bikes is that they are just underpowered motorcycles. Truth is, they are a lot less than motorcycles in several ways. They don't have a history of continued improvement since the 1960s. E-bikes aren't even as manueverable as standard bicycles because they are three times heavier, or more. They are a class of their own and I have a history of riding desert racing motorcycles since the 1970s. An e-bike is ridden just like it is a standard bicycle in places where people ride standard bicycles (not MTBs), and at the same speeds as a standard bicycle. If you crash and burn, expect the injuries will be more severe than crashing a standard bicycle.
Unfortunately, with newer e-bikes showing speeds up to 40 mph, it could be the death of all the privileges we have known and appreciate with class 1 and 2 e-bikes. Sharing a hiking trail with such a fast e-bike is just plain insane. If the newer speed abilities force all e-bikes to be licensed and insured, then I'll dump my e-bike.
I Love my 2020 Radrover ST1 . I Have 18,000 off road trail miles on it problem free . And Yes it has a quick release lever front wheel but if it's installed correctly its as solid as a rock 🙂Note ? I said installed correctly !
I never liked quick release, I think they are inadequate for the job. I had one on a standard bike as a teenager and the thin rod that holds everything together snapped in two, because with an overabundance of caution I was over tightening it. If you under tighten you run the risk of it becoming loose. If it snags on something it could loosen. They have multiple parts and washers that need to be assembled specifically. I think there's a case for them on foldable compact for transportation bikes but in my opinion they are far to common on bikes that don't need them. It's just a pointless selling point for a use that nobody uses. Yeah yeah yeah, you might get a flat. So how often is that? Once in a hundred miles? A thousand? Use a wrench. But that's my opinion, and this is not to say I think Rad or anyone else should get sued for using them. Because in the end it's the ignorant consumer who wants them and producers are giving them what they want. My final opinion is that this guy is responsible for understanding how to assemble, maintain, and use his own equipment. After all there are millions QR being used on bikes everywhere. If anyone should get sued I would think the driver who turned in front of him, but was there even a collision ?!?
I recently (Oct. 2024) bought a RadRover 6+. The front wheel on my bike is a bolt-on hub, not quick release. This actually caused me an issue in assembly because all the written and video assembly instructions were to use the quick release skewer to install the front wheel - and there was a quick release skewer holding the front fork onto a plastic plate for shipping, and I could not find the needed bolt to complete the front wheel install. It turns out, the needed bolt was deeply embedded in the plastic disc rotor protector, and I just had trouble finding the bolt. Anyway, the point is that Rad Power changed the design for the Rover 6+ from a quick release skewer to a bolt. This is a good change as the front wheel is now slightly harder to steal; and apparently less likely to fall off???!! That change would also exclude me from being a member of the class in a class action law suit.
Checked my RC5+ and it's physically impossible for the release lever to get anywhere near the brake disk; mind you I didn't bother to get into an idiot mindset and try to MAKE that happen.
Someone wants money, thats it. The rest is bs. If this happens to someone, the person should stay the rest of his life on a chair, because he or her is probably also to dumb to walk.
This is why many newer mountain bike uses the Thru Axle design. Area 13 "Bolton" BlackBird ebike uses this design. I have a regular front hub motor with disc brake and the the nut gets loose over 200-300 miles of ride. With heavier load and hard riding, routine check is a good idea.
I had front wheel shimmying on my rad runner 2. I tried tightening the head stock but it still shimmied when braking. I retightened the quick release and then gave it an extra quarter turn with the lever fully depressed. I was surprised how easily it turned. By adding the extra tension it got rid of the shimmy.
I have always been taught that QR skewer should be tightened with the tightened by the nut itself then the lever is pushed down leaving an indent in hand and the lever end needs to be pointed straight up inline with fork on the front so it doesn’t come in to contact anything an open, tightened the same way in the back lever end pointed backwards so it doesn’t interfere with riders heel 😅
Nah. It's a fantastic plus to have. Let's not continue to dumb-down consumer products to the lowest common denominator just to protect everyone from the dummies out there; not saying this plaintiff is that, but rather, speaking in more general terms.
I bought a Radrunner 2 last year and assembled it myself. The front wheel is a quick release and I put the lever on the right side because I wasn't comfortable with it on the disc side. I.was shocked that Rad didn't use safety dropouts so I changed to a locking qr. I'm still not comfortable with the setup. I recently bought a new bike (not Rad) that has safety dropouts AND a bolt on axle.
Frivolous and unfounded lawsuit. I can't remember the time I did NOT have that same lever/combo. Naturally, as a sensible rider (motorcycle, bicycle, and e-bike), I make sure they're safe to ride before each outing. Properly tightened wheels, good tire pressure (a huge one for me), and brakes in good working order are at the top of my priorities.
As a Rad rover 6 owner i have to say that the weight of the front tire does put a lot of pressure on the axle locks which will eventually come loose. It is our responsibility to check out our bikes before each and every ride. If that is too much, don't ride or take off the quick release and put a nut on.
Interesting, but most bike mechanics know to put the QR on the drive side. Guess it pays to go to the professionals, and buy your bike from a qualified bike store. Certified techs matter. Our bike industry cannot expect Joe public to be bike mechanics! Support your local E Bike shop!
While that may be true for a Front QR, the rear QR levers are universally put on the non-driveside (& Most bicyclists keep both QR levers on the non-driveside).
Ive been a victim of self inflicted loose skewer accidents, 99% of the time i noticed before i made it 10 feet and just tightend it. Skewer always goes on the other side of the brake disk lol
The quick release works itself loose every now and then. If you have a quick release front tire,if you notice a more than usual wobble when you start to ride,just stop,open then quick release lever and tighten the nut in the other side. I don't know about Rad vut Hitway sent me both, the quick release and a standard axil for my front tire and keft it up to me to decide which I would prefer to use
The US is with lawsuits money grabs and I think this is just the ebike version of that. Ignorance is not an excuse for improper usage because the negligence is on the user not the OEM. That would mean putting the seat post in between the spoke and having an accident would also be legitimate. Like the McDonald hot coffee lady ruining mornings for many people, this daft lawyer is bound to ruin it for ebike users/manufacturers/etc.
Well if a person locks the quick release lever on the same side as the caliper and rotor then perhaps they should stick with a standard bicycle. Whether it's a bolt holding your tires on or a quick release always check for tightness...."Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid"...John Wayne (1907-1979) Can't protect a customer from himself. Removing warning stickers is a bad sign. If you don't check the head set then you can lose control at the handlebars...right ? With five broken ribs with every breath, sneeze, cough, and laugh he will remember to check next time.
It's almost certainly user error. While ebikes are a bit heavier there was no structural failure of the fork or skewer. I know over the years I've had a couple instances where I noticed my front wheel was loose and fortunately I got off and tightened the skewer. It is a bit tricky to get the skewer lever to generate the best preload but not hard. We are talking about a two wheeled vehicle and they will remain somewhat dangerous. Automobiles accidents kill 10s of 1000s in the US every year but they will still want everyone thinking ebikes are more dangerous so people never consider an ebike a viable commuting solution.
I think lawyers will find anything to sue over if they are allowed to where it comes to a pedal bike electric or normal I expect the users to know the risks and have the sense to take a basic familiarity course if they have zero clue... I am personally tired of this everything needs bubble wrap ... Use at your own risk! ... ride on
The only problems i have with my rad bikes is wired disc brakes and weak axles. A reinforced front and rear wheel axle should be standard on cargo ebikes. And I've had wires snap from the pressure put on them. Rad has upgraded to hydraulic brakes on newer bikes but it should have been standard on all cargo bikes. And i hate quick release wheels on all bikes. They are garbage and give thieves easy access to parts from your bike.
The real problem with mechanical (cable pull) disc brakes is when the cable end is too long, so it can get into the brake rotor spokes and jam the wheel. While I agree that heavier bikes need heavier axles, I have not had any QR issues over 30 years of MTB or 25 yrs of year-round bike commuting. My eMTB have had through axles (12mm R & 20mm F) so never any issues over 6 yrs.
Is it just me or aren’t you responsible for making certain the skewer is locked down. In order to protect a small stupid minority we will lose the convenience of quick releases. No problem you’ll hardly even notice the wrench in your pocket after a couple of miles. Hey, thanks class action ambulance chasers
I think the dynamic illustrated with the locking lever hitting the disc is not at all the issue. The real dynamic is the caliper clamping down on the disc, This then becomes a pivot point as the upward motion of the disc driven by the momentum of the wheel and the bike then becomes a sudden downward force on the hub. The skewer and nut assembly would have to be fastened tightly enough to prevent the wheel axle from dropping out of the forks. This is the REAL issue, and riders ought to maintain sufficient tightness on the front wheel hub to prevent this from happening. This dynamic would be eliminated if manufacturers put the caliper in front of the axle rather than behind. If this was done, the braking force would serve to lift the axle up into to fork notches. The eBikes we own don't use the quick-disconnect skewers designed for lightweight road bikes, instead utilizing nuts and lock washers, so are much less susceptible to this problem.
All bicycle forks are required to have the "lawyer lugs", so the axle cannot be forced out of the dropouts (unless severe user error). Braking forces, even with 8"/203mm downhill racing brake discs are not enough to move the axle, especially since braking causes an increased weight to the front of the bike. Again, unless severe user error. P.S. look at motorcycles, the calipers are always behind the fork legs.
@@BlueMonkeyBicyclesABS would not help, because the situation OP describes is impossible. With the increased weighting of the front end of the bike due to braking forces, the front axle is forced more strongly into the dropout, no way for the brakes to force the axle out of the dropout (unless severe user error).
@@davebrown9725 Thanks for the additional information. I'm not clear on the scale of the forces from the moment of rotation, and I hadn't considered downforce, although it's not impossible for the wheel to leave the ground on rough terrain. I'd have to do the math, but it might be possible that the forward force rotating the wheel, multiplied by the moment of the angular distance from the brake caliper to the axle center might be sufficient to lift the forks the one or two inches necessary to get the axle out of the slot, even with half the weight of the rider and the braking downforce. I've seen bikes with a specialized oblong washer with a bent end that hooks into a hole in the forks above the slot, bikes that have the washer but no hole in the forks, bikes with forks that have a semi-circle of slightly thicker steel that surrounds the nut and washer at the bottom of the forks, as well as bikes with none of these. I suspect the best advice is to make sure your axles are securely tightened. I think I'll do some math to see what the real physics are. (I won't be too surprised if I find you're right...). 😊
Yes, the bent oblong washer you mention was another axle retention method. You are also correct that wheels can come off the ground when braking in the rough, but once off the ground the wheel has only its own mass and rotational force acting on the brake, not the weight of the rider generating the rotational force. A QR axle also has gripper knurling on the surfaces that contact the dropouts, so when properly tight it cannot be forced out of old dropouts without the "lawyer's lugs" at the tips of the dropouts. It is only when the QR is not correctly installed that there is any possibility of the wheel coming off (failures or breakage of parts would be the only failure mode possible). User Error and the resulting injuries are why bike forks have "lawyer's lugs" or other wheel retention to keep folks from suing.
I think if not checked, you will wreck. Just a matter of time. Mr Five Broken ribs needs a reminder to do maintenance in the future all he needs to do is remember the pain of breathing, coughing, sneezing, laughing and moving next time he feels...lazy.
Sometimes I sit and think of how hard it is to move things. How much energy, innovations and infrastructure have all snowballed, until we now take it for granted
so i have riden bikes my whole life that is why i dont do quick releases. i have had this happen to me it sucks and hurts. i stopped ride for about 7 years now and was getting back into it looking for ebikes and i saw the quick releases on some ebike and ya im not doing it. i can use a wrench on my wheels. i dont turst it but that doesnt mean it doesnt work
my ride one up has a wobbley ride, and i have always guessed it's those quick release axles, but, don't know, and don't care, as long as I don't get hurt.
This nebulous video casts significant dispersion on RadPower which seems in direct competition with Blue Monkey. I am unsure if this was even a newsworthy subject for a video. What the heck happening here?
Pick up the new Bicycling magazine. There is an article in it (Molly’s Last Ride) that details this fault with Rad Ebikes. Who or whom is to be held accountable for this dangerous manufacturing safety issue? Keep up the great videos, I truly enjoy the content!
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I'm don't think the QR lever could ever get caught in the brake disk if the wheel lever was appropriately tightened. I believe it was user error/carelessness on the part of the user.
I literally went to check my 2019 Rad City to see which way the quick release handle was on, and it's not even on the side with the disc brake, and I've taken it on and off DOZENS of times.
Personally I think this might get chalked up to 'User Error'.
I think you're right about user error.
Your QR is mounted the wrong way. They are customarily installed on the left side of the bike, which is the side with discs. I don't think it's an issue but it's done the other way because, in the rear the lever could get tangled in the derailleur.
@@michaelsprinzeles4022 Honestly it's entirely possible that when I first got the bike (or after some other moment), I installed it on the side with the disc and thought "This seems like a dumb idea" and changed sides. I also tend to dismount my bike on the right side, so that may have been my subconscious thought as well.
@@aehink143 If it works it ain't broke so don't fix it. As long as your wheel is secure, who cares how it's secured?
Just like everybody else commented that is the user's fault and his or her responsibility to tighten the screw axle properly. According to the manufacture specifications you must tighten with the palm of your hand leaves a red mark on your hand. if you leave it half loose it is on you and not the manufacturer.
Since assembly wasn't mentioned in the suit, I assume the plaintiff did that himself.
youre responsible to check your bike before each ride. you assume full responsibility. stay safe. watch out for drivers on thier phones. use lights! 🍻
No. I own 5 rad power e-bikes and I need to tighten my quick release multiple times while riding.
I don't see how the quick release lever could get caught in the brake disc while the bike is moving forward. I think he grabbed the front brake way too hard thereby causing the wheel to lock up and causing the rider and bike to go head over heels! Operator error.
fun fact, in Switzerland this guy would have had to pay a fine, for beeing on the road without proper knowledge how to handle a bike
Interesting
I did exactly this when I was younger, hit the brake hard, to avoid a person in front of me (we were on a group ride on a Gulf Island BC coast). Went over the handlebars, broke my wrist.
that happened to me when I was test driving a bike from the pawn shop! I made a perfect head-over-heels rollover the front wheel, and arose with no injuries! It was like a TikTok or a stunt shot!
Sadly most people do not know the correct way to secure the front wheel on a quick release type system. ....and this includes some retailers . Simple solution is to install the skewer handle opposite the disc side and adjust the finger nut side so that the handle engages half way to full lock. Wheels with quick release levers work on a cam/sqeeze type system for engagement not a spin the lever like a screw manner that some folks employ.
Whats the correct way? There a specific toruqe to realease lever should be tightened to?
@@raczyk Basic "rule of thumb" is that the QR handle should leave a mark on your hand when you push it into the Closed position. If not, then the nut is not tight enough. Something that bicyclists either learn from experience, never do at all, or do wrong (Such as using the QR lever like a wrench to tighten the axle).
@@davebrown9725 I assume it's better to over tighten then to under tighted the QR lever? What's the drawback of over tightining the QR lever to tighten the axle?
It is almost impossible to overtighten a QR axle, the lever is only 3" or less, so there is only so much hand force possible. Generally friction and lever force will stop an overly tight lever from fully closing, that is how you know when to back off the nut slightly and try again. If you were to severely overtighten, stripping the axle nut or breaking an axle might occur when riding hard or otherwise causing extra (now excessive) force on the wheel, that otherwise would never occur.
The first time I bought a bike with disc brakes and a quick release lever, the salesman showed me how to align the lever with the fork so that it would never accidentally open or contact the disc brake. At some point, consumers have to be smart enough to follow common sense advice, or everything will cease to be manufactured just because one person had no common sense and got hurt and got a lawyer.
We are three friends (ages 60-80) that travel together that own 3 different models of Rad ebikes. We tow them all over the country to ride trails. We ride locally also. We've never had any issues (even after riding on semi rough - non paved trails). This sounds like user error.
Very well could be
The wheel coming off is user error, you must tighten the nut to the appropriate level so when you fold the lever you make it tight, and you must make sure that you adjust to the location where the lever folds so that it does not make itself a hazard for object to snag on it and undo it.
I would have had the lever on the opposite side of the disc brake
If you have common sense which this guy obviously is lacking you check that quick release lever and make sure its tight and not going to get caught on anything . Sick of this litigation obsessed country .
I forgot to mention that users manuals often warn about this sort of thing. Not sure if Rad includes this issue in their manual.
I’ve been riding bicycles since quick release hubs. Never had any trouble. User error on the consumers part.
I'm inclined to agree
If it’s true that the plaintiff is a class action lawyer, then that says it all.
What BS! QR skewers have been around a long time. I'm riding on a pair of skewers that was over a decade old when I converted my bike to e-. Perhaps there is a minor issue but a properly tightened skewer won't release randomly. It kills me that people with no knowledge of bike mechanics can have a bike drop shipped direct to their doors and then the road.
Caveat emptor! If you don't know about bikes and can't take the time to learn take your bike to professional mechanic.
The majority of people that ride bicycles don’t know how to work on them. I think a company should make bulletproof designs since most people are not mechanically inclined.
@@eastwood111 I can't disagree but think the bikes resemble bullet proof already, IF assembled properly. They are, after all, vehicles. If you can't maintain your own vehicle there are professionals happy to do it for you (for a price). IMO it's worth some investment, of effort or money, not to fly over your handlebars.
The RAD assembly instructions specify that the quick release goes on the RIGHT side away from the disk brake! How can you enforce correct procedures when TLDR is a common expression? (Too long, didn't read.)
I have been riding RADs since 2017. The biggest myth about e-bikes is that they are just underpowered motorcycles. Truth is, they are a lot less than motorcycles in several ways. They don't have a history of continued improvement since the 1960s. E-bikes aren't even as manueverable as standard bicycles because they are three times heavier, or more. They are a class of their own and I have a history of riding desert racing motorcycles since the 1970s. An e-bike is ridden just like it is a standard bicycle in places where people ride standard bicycles (not MTBs), and at the same speeds as a standard bicycle. If you crash and burn, expect the injuries will be more severe than crashing a standard bicycle.
I think we need a few terms. Class 1,2,3 is a start, but I think we need more. (Not more regulation, just more terminology)
Unfortunately, with newer e-bikes showing speeds up to 40 mph, it could be the death of all the privileges we have known and appreciate with class 1 and 2 e-bikes. Sharing a hiking trail with such a fast e-bike is just plain insane.
If the newer speed abilities force all e-bikes to be licensed and insured, then I'll dump my e-bike.
I Love my 2020 Radrover ST1 . I Have 18,000 off road trail miles on it problem free . And Yes it has a quick release lever front wheel but if it's installed correctly its as solid as a rock 🙂Note ? I said installed correctly !
18,000 miles on the odometer? What maintenance have you done along the way?
@@BlueMonkeyBicycles Tires Chains and Brake pads thats all
I never liked quick release, I think they are inadequate for the job. I had one on a standard bike as a teenager and the thin rod that holds everything together snapped in two, because with an overabundance of caution I was over tightening it. If you under tighten you run the risk of it becoming loose. If it snags on something it could loosen. They have multiple parts and washers that need to be assembled specifically. I think there's a case for them on foldable compact for transportation bikes but in my opinion they are far to common on bikes that don't need them. It's just a pointless selling point for a use that nobody uses. Yeah yeah yeah, you might get a flat. So how often is that? Once in a hundred miles? A thousand? Use a wrench.
But that's my opinion, and this is not to say I think Rad or anyone else should get sued for using them. Because in the end it's the ignorant consumer who wants them and producers are giving them what they want.
My final opinion is that this guy is responsible for understanding how to assemble, maintain, and use his own equipment. After all there are millions QR being used on bikes everywhere. If anyone should get sued I would think the driver who turned in front of him, but was there even a collision ?!?
I recently (Oct. 2024) bought a RadRover 6+. The front wheel on my bike is a bolt-on hub, not quick release. This actually caused me an issue in assembly because all the written and video assembly instructions were to use the quick release skewer to install the front wheel - and there was a quick release skewer holding the front fork onto a plastic plate for shipping, and I could not find the needed bolt to complete the front wheel install. It turns out, the needed bolt was deeply embedded in the plastic disc rotor protector, and I just had trouble finding the bolt. Anyway, the point is that Rad Power changed the design for the Rover 6+ from a quick release skewer to a bolt. This is a good change as the front wheel is now slightly harder to steal; and apparently less likely to fall off???!! That change would also exclude me from being a member of the class in a class action law suit.
User error. Sure it sucks to get hurt and it’s embarrassing but people need to take responsibility for their own actions.
RIP Sheldon Brown
Checked my RC5+ and it's physically impossible for the release lever to get anywhere near the brake disk; mind you I didn't bother to get into an idiot mindset and try to MAKE that happen.
If you concentrate, you might be able to pull it off
It's very easy to design a quick release to not rotate more than 180° so as to not be able to reach the disc rotor preventing this from happening!
Yes, exactly!
Someone wants money, thats it. The rest is bs. If this happens to someone, the person should stay the rest of his life on a chair, because he or her is probably also to dumb to walk.
QR wheels have never been a selling point for me. I've got a wrench along. And I'm never sure about those clamps.
I came out of the grocery store and (luckily!) noticed that someone had flipped the quick release on my front wheel! Totally freaked me out!
This is why many newer mountain bike uses the Thru Axle design. Area 13 "Bolton" BlackBird ebike uses this design. I have a regular front hub motor with disc brake and the the nut gets loose over 200-300 miles of ride. With heavier load and hard riding, routine check is a good idea.
I had front wheel shimmying on my rad runner 2. I tried tightening the head stock but it still shimmied when braking. I retightened the quick release and then gave it an extra quarter turn with the lever fully depressed. I was surprised how easily it turned. By adding the extra tension it got rid of the shimmy.
I have always been taught that QR skewer should be tightened with the tightened by the nut itself then the lever is pushed down leaving an indent in hand and the lever end needs to be pointed straight up inline with fork on the front so it doesn’t come in to contact anything an open, tightened the same way in the back lever end pointed backwards so it doesn’t interfere with riders heel 😅
I’ve always thought the front skewer is a dangerous idea. Most of the time it never fails, but that one time it does, not good.
Nah. It's a fantastic plus to have. Let's not continue to dumb-down consumer products to the lowest common denominator just to protect everyone from the dummies out there; not saying this plaintiff is that, but rather, speaking in more general terms.
I bought a Radrunner 2 last year and assembled it myself. The front wheel is a quick release and I put the lever on the right side because I wasn't comfortable with it on the disc side. I.was shocked that Rad didn't use safety dropouts so I changed to a locking qr. I'm still not comfortable with the setup. I recently bought a new bike (not Rad) that has safety dropouts AND a bolt on axle.
Frivolous and unfounded lawsuit.
I can't remember the time I did NOT have that same lever/combo. Naturally, as a sensible rider (motorcycle, bicycle, and e-bike), I make sure they're safe to ride before each outing. Properly tightened wheels, good tire pressure (a huge one for me), and brakes in good working order are at the top of my priorities.
As a Rad rover 6 owner i have to say that the weight of the front tire does put a lot of pressure on the axle locks which will eventually come loose. It is our responsibility to check out our bikes before each and every ride. If that is too much, don't ride or take off the quick release and put a nut on.
Interesting, but most bike mechanics know to put the QR on the drive side. Guess it pays to go to the professionals, and buy your bike from a qualified bike store. Certified techs matter. Our bike industry cannot expect Joe public to be bike mechanics! Support your local E Bike shop!
While that may be true for a Front QR, the rear QR levers are universally put on the non-driveside (& Most bicyclists keep both QR levers on the non-driveside).
Ive been a victim of self inflicted loose skewer accidents, 99% of the time i noticed before i made it 10 feet and just tightend it. Skewer always goes on the other side of the brake disk lol
The quick release works itself loose every now and then. If you have a quick release front tire,if you notice a more than usual wobble when you start to ride,just stop,open then quick release lever and tighten the nut in the other side. I don't know about Rad vut Hitway sent me both, the quick release and a standard axil for my front tire and keft it up to me to decide which I would prefer to use
and yes I noticed that I spelled Squeeze incorrectly }:
Never heard of the quick release issue, but front basket supports can also fail and stop the front wheel.
I woke up in the hospital with exactly those same injuries.....riding my expensive Jamis acoustic street bike! Maybe I should sue Jamis!
Great report.
The US is with lawsuits money grabs and I think this is just the ebike version of that. Ignorance is not an excuse for improper usage because the negligence is on the user not the OEM. That would mean putting the seat post in between the spoke and having an accident would also be legitimate. Like the McDonald hot coffee lady ruining mornings for many people, this daft lawyer is bound to ruin it for ebike users/manufacturers/etc.
Well if a person locks the quick release lever on the same side as the caliper and rotor then perhaps they should stick with a standard bicycle. Whether it's a bolt holding your tires on or a quick release always check for tightness...."Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid"...John Wayne (1907-1979) Can't protect a customer from himself. Removing warning stickers is a bad sign. If you don't check the head set then you can lose control at the handlebars...right ? With five broken ribs with every breath, sneeze, cough, and laugh he will remember to check next time.
It's almost certainly user error. While ebikes are a bit heavier there was no structural failure of the fork or skewer. I know over the years I've had a couple instances where I noticed my front wheel was loose and fortunately I got off and tightened the skewer. It is a bit tricky to get the skewer lever to generate the best preload but not hard.
We are talking about a two wheeled vehicle and they will remain somewhat dangerous. Automobiles accidents kill 10s of 1000s in the US every year but they will still want everyone thinking ebikes are more dangerous so people never consider an ebike a viable commuting solution.
The Rad quick release skewers are junk. Mine kept coming loose, so I replaced them with actual bolt-on axles.
I think lawyers will find anything to sue over if they are allowed to where it comes to a pedal bike electric or normal I expect the users to know the risks and have the sense to take a basic familiarity course if they have zero clue... I am personally tired of this everything needs bubble wrap ... Use at your own risk! ... ride on
How fast where you going? Normal bike go 5 miles
The lever is on backwards. The quick release lever should never be placed on the same side as the brake disc.. This is a no brainer..
I mean, they do call then quick releases for a reason.
Which bikes does this affect?
The suit was about the rad runner, of memory serves me. But this component combo is on a lot of bikes, including other rad bikes.
Mine has been through axle front wheel, most reliable I have had
The only problems i have with my rad bikes is wired disc brakes and weak axles. A reinforced front and rear wheel axle should be standard on cargo ebikes. And I've had wires snap from the pressure put on them. Rad has upgraded to hydraulic brakes on newer bikes but it should have been standard on all cargo bikes. And i hate quick release wheels on all bikes. They are garbage and give thieves easy access to parts from your bike.
The real problem with mechanical (cable pull) disc brakes is when the cable end is too long, so it can get into the brake rotor spokes and jam the wheel. While I agree that heavier bikes need heavier axles, I have not had any QR issues over 30 years of MTB or 25 yrs of year-round bike commuting. My eMTB have had through axles (12mm R & 20mm F) so never any issues over 6 yrs.
If you hit the front brakes , to Hard, on a bicycle you may go over the handle bars
Is it just me or aren’t you responsible for making certain the skewer is locked down. In order to protect a small stupid minority we will lose the convenience of quick releases. No problem you’ll hardly even notice the wrench in your pocket after a couple of miles. Hey, thanks class action ambulance chasers
I think the dynamic illustrated with the locking lever hitting the disc is not at all the issue. The real dynamic is the caliper clamping down on the disc, This then becomes a pivot point as the upward motion of the disc driven by the momentum of the wheel and the bike then becomes a sudden downward force on the hub. The skewer and nut assembly would have to be fastened tightly enough to prevent the wheel axle from dropping out of the forks. This is the REAL issue, and riders ought to maintain sufficient tightness on the front wheel hub to prevent this from happening. This dynamic would be eliminated if manufacturers put the caliper in front of the axle rather than behind. If this was done, the braking force would serve to lift the axle up into to fork notches. The eBikes we own don't use the quick-disconnect skewers designed for lightweight road bikes, instead utilizing nuts and lock washers, so are much less susceptible to this problem.
I wonder if ABS brakes would help
All bicycle forks are required to have the "lawyer lugs", so the axle cannot be forced out of the dropouts (unless severe user error). Braking forces, even with 8"/203mm downhill racing brake discs are not enough to move the axle, especially since braking causes an increased weight to the front of the bike. Again, unless severe user error.
P.S. look at motorcycles, the calipers are always behind the fork legs.
@@BlueMonkeyBicyclesABS would not help, because the situation OP describes is impossible. With the increased weighting of the front end of the bike due to braking forces, the front axle is forced more strongly into the dropout, no way for the brakes to force the axle out of the dropout (unless severe user error).
@@davebrown9725 Thanks for the additional information. I'm not clear on the scale of the forces from the moment of rotation, and I hadn't considered downforce, although it's not impossible for the wheel to leave the ground on rough terrain. I'd have to do the math, but it might be possible that the forward force rotating the wheel, multiplied by the moment of the angular distance from the brake caliper to the axle center might be sufficient to lift the forks the one or two inches necessary to get the axle out of the slot, even with half the weight of the rider and the braking downforce. I've seen bikes with a specialized oblong washer with a bent end that hooks into a hole in the forks above the slot, bikes that have the washer but no hole in the forks, bikes with forks that have a semi-circle of slightly thicker steel that surrounds the nut and washer at the bottom of the forks, as well as bikes with none of these. I suspect the best advice is to make sure your axles are securely tightened.
I think I'll do some math to see what the real physics are. (I won't be too surprised if I find you're right...). 😊
Yes, the bent oblong washer you mention was another axle retention method. You are also correct that wheels can come off the ground when braking in the rough, but once off the ground the wheel has only its own mass and rotational force acting on the brake, not the weight of the rider generating the rotational force. A QR axle also has gripper knurling on the surfaces that contact the dropouts, so when properly tight it cannot be forced out of old dropouts without the "lawyer's lugs" at the tips of the dropouts. It is only when the QR is not correctly installed that there is any possibility of the wheel coming off (failures or breakage of parts would be the only failure mode possible). User Error and the resulting injuries are why bike forks have "lawyer's lugs" or other wheel retention to keep folks from suing.
I think if not checked, you will wreck. Just a matter of time. Mr Five Broken ribs needs a reminder to do maintenance in the future all he needs to do is remember the pain of breathing, coughing, sneezing, laughing and moving next time he feels...lazy.
Sometimes I sit and think of how hard it is to move things. How much energy, innovations and infrastructure have all snowballed, until we now take it for granted
Put the QR lever on the other side...
so i have riden bikes my whole life that is why i dont do quick releases. i have had this happen to me it sucks and hurts. i stopped ride for about 7 years now and was getting back into it looking for ebikes and i saw the quick releases on some ebike and ya im not doing it. i can use a wrench on my wheels. i dont turst it but that doesnt mean it doesnt work
Not wearing appropriate safety gear is on the rider.
my ride one up has a wobbley ride, and i have always guessed it's those quick release axles, but, don't know, and don't care, as long as I don't get hurt.
If the wheel wobbles, it needs to be fixed. Call em up, they got good people over there.
definitely... i am (and always wuz) bit of a ahat customer, and they were great re any complaint@@BlueMonkeyBicycles
Stupid sue happy society. Had my Rad Rover 6 Plus for 3 years and never had an issue.
.....aaaannnd its gone
*they don't sell with the quick release anymore*
this is ridiculous- never had this issue.
Thanks for the update. I know why they removed it, but I still didn't like it.
Skill issue😂
Love rad never had a problem in ever had my bike years user error
I Litcherally never check anything before riding. Put it in Gods hands and ride to pick up your dispensary order 😂
This nebulous video casts significant dispersion on RadPower which seems in direct competition with Blue Monkey. I am unsure if this was even a newsworthy subject for a video. What the heck happening here?
All these videos about why bikes are so expensive. It's because of this …
No, this isn't why. Most stateside eBike companies have put very little thought into legal protections, let alone money.
Pick up the new Bicycling magazine. There is an article in it (Molly’s Last Ride) that details this fault with Rad Ebikes. Who or whom is to be held accountable for this dangerous manufacturing safety issue?
Keep up the great videos, I truly enjoy the content!