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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2024
- In this video I visit a customer who had an old rusty disconnect that wouldn’t kill all the power! #hvacguy #hvaclife #hvac #airconditioner #furnace #hvactechnician #hvactrainingvideos #heatpump #hvacinstall #hvactroubleshooting #hvacengineer #electrical #calefacción @ruud
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Curtis, I have to let you know that while I was having a PM on my furnace my HVAC guy mentioned your TH-cam channel. He follows you as do I. We enjoy your laid back style and no profanity. I really enjoy your channel.
IKR, on some of his videos, I swear a little bit for him.
That is awesome!
Ha! That's funny; my HVAC watches this channel, too. Last year, we were chatting it up, and I told him I saw something on a TH-cam channel. He mentioned he watches a "guy from Georgia," and I mentioned the channel name, and we both had a laugh.
Just never assume because the breaker says off, it may not be.
Riley is the True Star ⭐️ of this Channel. It’s really Nice that Riley allows you to Co-Star on his Channel. 😬👍🙏
Exactly
One solution for the knockouts. Get a step drill, and just drill them out to the size you need. Save's fighting with them for 5 minutes and then still having to stack washers cause the hole ends up too big.
great idea
Should pull some of that wire back out of the house to provide a 'drip loop' like it was when you started, so the water doesn't follow the wire inside.
Kinda low to the ground there, i would have raised the disconnect as much as possible and slipped the romex in some 3/4 flex😎
It is direct burial wire and in Oklahoma only a licensed electrician can change a disconnect
Amazing that the Disconnect didn’t cause some Huge Issues.
Thank God I don't deal with knock outs often in my field of work. Total PITA.
Nice job cleaning up that disconnect. Reily is quite big now, what a nice baby. Thanks for making the video. Be safe with this wild weather.
The grey type of wire is called UF, (underground feeder.)
Yes it’s a pain to work with they use it on wells here.😅
I etch the paint on the knock out hole with a knife before trying to remove it. It helps.
Ive found it earlier to knock out the nickel first then use side snips to cut the right size lip. I cut it at the thickness of the lip then pull the rest out
“Don’t do this at home.” 🤣. Hiya, Riley! 🐾
Knockouts used to work as coins for toll booths.
You need a step drill bit !!
Glad you and Riley didn’t have any tornado activity up here. High winds and a little snow kept our power out for another 8-10 hrs. Hope it will stay on tonight lol
That weather came through for me, before it got to Curtis area. More is coming, but is not suppose to be as bad. Colder air coming after, the pipe bursting kind. Man I hate winter
I've had good luck using my wire snips to clip the pesky knockout bits when they fight too much.
Hi
That cable is seu cable its made for services , back in the day they used it to save money, its aluminum.
They use it because applications that dont need a neutral wire and 2 phase power.
Like ranges,
I have to say i see its used on all your air handlers and condenser installes.
And I thought you were going to use a pipe wrench to remove that disconnect lol great job 👍👍
Not this time
LOL, a ball-peen hammer would do the trick.
Every thing you did looked like a 4 letter word. WORK
Thank you for your videos.
It's nice to enjoy a home repair video in a relaxed presentation and no colorful language.
Thanks again.
You forgot to refill the water 😂😂😂😂
A bit cold. It’s going to be-36 degrees here where I’m at in Montana for the next few days
About those knockouts. I have always hated them as they are a bad design. Sometimes they come out easy and other times they do not. You would think they could come up with something better.
A few different size holes in the bottom with plastic plugs in them.
Thanks for your efforts. Keep up the great work
Thanks, will do!
Thats UF underground wire
Klein has a nice set of offset wrenches for those pesky locknuts. I keep them in my bag and they have saved me a lot of headaches.
Nice work Curtis.
Thanks!
Those boxes are a pain. The manufacturer needs to calibrate the stamping machine more closely. The same thing happens with furnace knockouts. You will have several that they pop out nice, easy and clean then others that you need to beat the hell out of them to get them out. 👍👍🇨🇦
Not calibration, it's worn out stamping dies. Happens a lot lately.
@@mxslick50 Thank you, I think that’s what I was trying to say but the words failed me.
@@danobrien3109 You're welcome. :)
Man you are right about that. I've ruined boxes trying to get those punches out. Someone said a drill, but man, I don't see how that will work. You would need a heck of a bit, lol.
@@jthonn Use a small drill at the punch lines, one or two holes will weaken it enough to punch out.
A manual/hand sheet metal nibbler tool might help you remove only the knock-out size you want.
Nice video man 🙏🏾
Appreciate it
Great install. Only one thing I would have done is put a loop in the wire going into the house so rain won't follow the wire into the wall.
You must be a radio tower man or electrician; it be's a drip loop. 😎
Good tip!
A nice neat job Curtis and it's now safe. Riley is growing nicely 😄 Au
Thanks 👍
Nice work
Thanks
Looks like you could use a unibit that goes up to 1 3/8”
Nice work 😮😊
Thanks 😄
i didnt think the NEC allowed romex to be uncovered that wire from the house to the box is not right it should be in some sealtight shouldnt it?
It isn't allowed. I guess they don't have to follow any electrical code in his area??
11:47 That's underground feeder cable that can be directly burried in the ground. It can be a real PITA to work with, especially #6 or larger cable, it's easy to slip with the knife when splitting the jacket and nick the individual conductor insulation, and if Murphy has his way, the nick is always so far down close the lock nut that you have no choice but to start over and hope enough play extra cable is left at the opposite end. You're working in cold temps too which makes the jacket on it even less pliable and forgiving.
What I, as a foreigner from across the pond, don't get is this:
In the US there are so many things standardized, but obviously not the sizes of the punch outs of junction boxes and disconnects together with the sizes of strain reliefs and cable glands.
The punch outs have one size, let's say 3/4 in, and the outer diameter of the glands is 5/8 in.
The next size down for the punch outs is 1/2 in and the next size up for the glands is 13/16 in.
(Note: I used some arbitrary numbers here to emphasize my point. I don't know the actual sizes you have to work with.)
We here have approx 16.5mm punch outs for 16mm glands, approx 20.5mm for 20mm, approx 25.5mm for 25mm and so on. Lose enough to put the glands in but tight enough to avoid possible jiggling around of it in that hole. On top of that the IP rating is not reduced by that tight spacing, if the right gland is used.
Hey Curtis, Something occurred to Me while looking at your Field piece Meter. at the "9 O-Clock' position of the Dial is the NCV setting. Set Your meter there then the Funky protrusion at the top of the Amp clamp is the sensor. That meter has a non-Contact detector built into it. Have you tried it ???
Mike M.
Wow...water in the conduit. `
That feeder wire looks a little small to be running that
It just had to fight you a little bit, lol. That's the way it goes for me. I used that type of wire before, it is a pain in butt, the home store was out of the one I wanted. It's heavy duty good stuff though, if you can make it work. Nice job. Riley is looking great. Good dog
Knockout nightmare in 3....2....1.....
uh the brand new cover is all gouged up!
I was interested in what brand of disconnect you were using, but the knockouts look like an issue. I currently have a Milbank pull-out style disconnect that has a 20 amp gfci outlet built into the panel. The outlet is convenient, but I don't like the pull-out on the Milbank brand panel.
That’s UV rated wire and it sucks to work with. You need a good beatin screw driver for those knock outs. Good work!
Thanks
Did you ever consider putting some super glue to secure the handle that keeps coming off your one screw driver. Also, did you fill in the old holes on the siding?
did you?
That's UF direct burial cable. The inspector in my town would have a field day with that wire hanging out the house unshielded like that! LOL!
Great content. Miss S Carolina.
Hope you both don’t have any issues
Hi bro from west Alabama
Good evening
@@HVACGUY what up
Curtis, I'm going to say something, please don't take it wrong. From what I see, you have a tendency to try to rush through everything, I guess, trying to make the next call. Stop, take a deep breath, the next call will always be there. Just remember, slow is smooth and smooth is fast, don't worry about the next job until you're on the way to that job!! If I'm wrong, I apologize but you always seem to be in a rush!!
Curtis Iam from Florida and the it’s not safe Romex fitting outside big nooo and next time protect the wire with liquid type
Your sidekick is your partner.
You can not have that UF cable exposed. It must be in conduit or behind the wall. Just because you found it that way doesn’t make it ok.
I can understand low voltage wires getting a bit messy, as thin wires often don't hold their position. But 120/240 Volt cables and wires really should be installed with a neat and clean level of workmanship - if only to set the homeowner or next service person's mind at ease. It wasn't bad in the end, but for a while I thought twists were going to left in place - especially on the external UF cable. And it would be nice to improve the knockout removal outcomes - either by doing more of that work at the truck, or by using a step drill bit. A visibly neat installation can itself have value after the job - it can cause a home inspection to go quicker or a future home buyer to be willing to pay more.
What is your mark up on parts?
the white wire on your breaker needs to be any color but white White wires are neutrals
Whomever ran the feed orginally from the house into the disconnect never did that to code. It should be in watertight conduit or rigid liquid tight flex to protect the exposed section of cable from physical damage per NEC 225.20 and 230.50. 20:04, I was thinking the same thing, that looked way too small to feed that unit, I was shocked to see someone originally ran a #12 feed, to the disconnect, but it looks like #6 in the whip.
Should have added a piece of electrical pvc conduit pipe with a 90deg elbow to clean up the incoming power wires ??
A piece of 1/2" liquid tight would have worked nicely for the line feeding the disconnect box.
What’s an invoice like this go for?
CLC custom leathercraft 1578,is the lightest and easier tool bag to work out of.
Curtis got a new bag and didn’t do a load out video on it everyone 🗣
up to how many degrees celsius the external ambient temperature can the motor of the split and vrf air conditioner withstand, minimum and maximum temperature
You have a complete assortment of tools except for a hammer...
Why did they use direct burial wire inside of flex? And the supply romex is exposed instead of being in conduit. Maybe a DIY job?
Curtis where do you get those safety disconnects with the breaker? What brand are they and can you get different sizes like 30s 40s or 50 amp or 60 amp?
Not sure about the brand. And I buy them at my local electrical supply store
What’s The name of the supply house where you get them
I see you have the new MB4B. How do you like it compared to the Tech-MCT you where using?
Still figuring that out
What is your chest camera system you use? Love your vids!
That nm connector is not listed for outdoor use. Dry condition only
GLOVES!!.... damn bro.. smFh...
Not criticizing but I think the feed should have come from the top.not totally sure but I think so
Where we can get dose disconnect safety switch?
ˆthink you would profit from watching the you tube "proper way to remove a consintric knock out" . The wire used in the sealtite appears to be non metalic UF (under groung fused) wire desigened to be direct buried - not dessary in this case.the "feed wire" apears to be drop cord , a code infraction. the whole instalatiom would not pass in our area. I understand you are in a totalt different area and may not have to have inspections, but code regulations were made for a reason. This being said we all learn from every one of your videos.Your dionogist ability on such a wide variety of eguiptment is uncannie . Thanks for letting me "unload".
UF = Underground Feeder. not (under groung fused)...
The feed Wire is the Same stuff but in a smaller gauge.. If it is stamped UV Rated, Nothing wrong here but it should routed & secured to the Wall better.
UF cable.....for burial .
And that folks is why you always use your meter to check a circuit. That could of been a very bad day for someone.
my maan!!!!
Maybe you should have replaced the whip because of the water that was in it.
Ok i warched a vid of you finding a burnt an broken braker Disconnect an had to have an electrician replace it an in this vid your replacing a pull out one. What was hard about replacing the one with breakers vs this style
👍👍😊😊
In Tennessee your wiring need too be insulated
I see you switched to a different Veto bag. Why the switch? Is this one working out better for you?
How did water get into that flex?
Water in the flexible conduit for their 240 VAC line, not really compliant with NEC is it.... hahahaha
what brand was faulty disconnect? federal pacific?
Praise Jesus. Another great vid.
Thanks again!
You change tool bags?
that is UF wire
That stuffs really tuff!!
Underground feeder is dang near impossible to get a clean strip
Farm electricians, back in the day, only carried UF on the truck, since it could be used in place of NM as well as direct burial. If you use it a lot you get used to it. Probably a Code violation here though.
HVAC guy, yes. Electrician guy, no...
Why didn't you put a conduit for the feed? Disappointed.
Multiple NEC code violations there.
I am wondering why you did not install a box where the main power comes out of the house. And then conduit from there to the box for the disconnect.
Installing an outdoor box on the side of the house would be a good start; electricians can't have exposed NB wire and pass inspection. I guess in his area you don't need to follow any electrical code.
Step bit in your drill will save you so much time vs fighting those knockouts 🤷♂️
That said, this job won’t pass code in most parts of the USA, just saying