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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ค. 2022
- In this video I visit a tenant that complained her ac wasn’t working, and the breaker was shooting fire. I found the compressor shorted, and replaced it.
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First I would like to commend you on your videos, and my comment IS NOT to criticize your hard work, in any way. I went to Community college in 1978 for HVAC and have worked in the industry for the past 43 years, yep I'm an old man now, but I have a lot of experience in the field. Here is a pointer on Stay Brite #8. It's a great product. It has something like a 93% tensile strength of brazing rods, I've used it for many years and can't remember a time when it has failed any of my joints. But, you must remember that when using Stay Brite that it's like soldering a joint, NOT brazing! Use it the same way you would use any solder, for example; soldering a 1/2" copper water line joint, you don't need much heat to get a perfect result. But, I would not use it on a compressor replacement, too much vibration around the compressor. Use it, I guarantee you will love it!
My thoughts the same, seems like he runs his torches way too hot for the tubing sizes....
Electrician here. Few things need to be addressed, first off, breaker should be replaced. When the arc chutes get to the point of ejecting sparks like that, the contacts are toast. They will heat up under normal load now and cause nuisace tripping.
Second, where's the deadfront cover at? That panel is very dangerous like that.
Finally, that breaker wasn't shooting flames. I have seen REAL flames coming from a few breakers and it was a lot worse than the sparks you got. (I ALWAYS wear fireproof volage rated gloves and eye protection when resetting a breaker reported to have some damage or making noises.) Be safe!
I agree I would of changed the compressor then the breaker the breaker could be weak along with the compressor and how old that breaker is and how much longer is it going to last keep up the great work you are very good very very good I enjoy watching your TH-cam channel
I think arcing is more along the line of ionized air, that is superheated from electricity passing trough it, much like lightning rather then fire. What make this type of plasma discharge so dangerous in a dramatic event like an arc flash, is that it's temperature can get to be four or five time hotter then the surface of the sun. As well as expand very quickly.
Explain what a weak breaker is? The dead front needs to be replaced for sure. Either the breaker is not damaged or it is damaged. You will know after installing new compressor. Retired electrician and I’ve never worn any type of gloves etc when working in a circuit breaker panel no matter the voltage.
@@jamesmartello1827 Who said weak breaker? I said it was damaged. Breakers DO wear out after repeated exposure to fault current, environmental exposure, and like anything with mechanical moving parts, physical wear. We have no data on how many times they tried to reset that breaker under that fault or any other faults over its life.
The fact that you never wore any kind of PPE is nothing to be proud of. Available fault currents have risen dramatically over the years. Equipment has been aging. You were either incredibly lucky over your career or just not too smart. I have seen too many people get hurt with that kind of attitude.
Right, and that bus could be fried also now.
1yr later and I am so in debt to you for the knowledge you provide. Thank you a million times over Curtis.
I really wish you were in my area sir as your an honest contractor!! The fact that you actually fix systems instead of just recommending new units is commendable! Your trade desperately needs more people like you!
All that “fix it” sht goes right out the window when the homeowners see the quote for a major component replacement such as the compressor, vs the cost of an entire new system quote. 9/10 homeowners go with new systems themselves instead of the repair. Most of the time, not always, it is in the best interest of the homeowner to replace instead of throw 3-5 grand at a 15-20 year old system and run the risk of more components going faulty later on. Again sometimes repairs are completely fine and you can get couple more years out of the system.
I give you credit for helping the guy with limited funds to get his AC going. Also, it's a valuable video for us to watch so thanks for doing it.
Thank you for fixing the low voltage sealtite. I was bugging me for 33 minutes. I'm better now. :^)
Steve Lav uses Stay Brite with great results, some say it's stronger than Silfous due to not being heated so much, light on the flux and a map torch can be used, more compact, tight fit is preferred.
The Stay Brite will attract to the flux. Make sure you flux before putting the fittings together. Also I think your Oxy-Acetelyne is a bit hot. It does not take much heat. I use a Turbo Torch and have used it on many repairs BUT I have not used it on a discharge line even though they say it is OK. VERY important to clean the excess flux off when you are done otherwise it will corrode the line. I suggest playing with it in the shop before using it on live repairs.
Steve Lav uses it and he uses Propane instead of Oxy-Acetelyne. All his joints come out neat and clean and he does wipe the flux off for that reason.
I really don't understand people like you. He has his own business and does very well for himself. If he didn't know how to do his job he wouldn't have any content to upload.
@@Official_ry_Nirvana I don’t understand people like you. You’re getting offended over another professional giving their input. No one is saying he doesn’t know how to do their job, they’re sharing their experiences, giving advise, maybe constructive criticism.
Seriously, re-read his comment. What bothers you about it? What is offensive?
@@Official_ry_Nirvana Do you actually watch his videos? He asks for comments and criticism. Until the day we die we are constantly learning. If I can offer him a tip that may make his life easier or teach him how to improve his technique, he is free to use the idea or continue doing it the way he wants. He is a hard working guy and I have great respect for that. But sometimes small changes in how we do things can make life easier.
Stay brite is not for Brazing refrigerant lines only for Plumbing lines... Refrigerant opperate at high pressures, plumbing don't.
Curtis, thank you so much for helping the people who are struggling. It is nobel work.
He’s a saint
Nice to see techs helping people out that don't have the money for a new unit especially when the business teaches many to try and upsell at every turn and possibly make commissions off of those who can't afford it especially in these crazy times.
I replaced my first compressor about a week ago, didn't realize how heavy those things are until I pulled one out.
Try stay keen flux instead of stay silv....it works the best with stay brite soft silver solder .... with map gas 👍
I’ve been using Stay brite for some time now and it’s great 👍🏻 no need to flow nitrogen and you’re able to use a small map gas torch with it which is a godsend especially in attics. Don’t recommend using oxy acetylene as it just burns that flux fast.
welcome to the wonderful world of stay bright #8
Your like me have your fan with you. 👍
Started using Staybright in 2002, used it on my own system and when I went to the supply house they never heard of it and some techs at the counter said I was nuts and the joints would blow apart. An old tech that worked on commercial systems tipped me off to the stuff. It's very simalar to soldering a water pipe. Sucks right in with flux, don't need that much heat. just finesse the heat and you'll love the stuff.
I was taught in refrigeration school that stay bright 8 should only be used on the suction side.
Easy to tell these folks only pay attention to their stuff when something goes wrong with it. You had a forest floor in that compressor section. Good job under crappy conditions.👍👍🇨🇦
As someone else said, we don’t see you wash the coil. As dirty as the inside was, and with the high head pressures…we would like to hear your comments on that. Thanks for sharing the video.
Great job sir my favorite part of the video was the bird … lol… we got to do what the customer can afford these days. Bless you and keep making it happen like you aways do, see you on the next video…
Beautiful Job!
Thanks for giving us the "Bird"😁
That was a beautiful job with that flux. I have always used MAPP gas and flux both tube ends after sanding with small grit, but I read that only flux on the male end so I was probably wrong. Everybody does things different. It is easy to be sn armchair critic!
I learn a lot from you.
Thanks again for the video and look forward to the next one!
FYI If you check one terminal and its shorted you dont need to check anymore . Nice Job on the replacement
We all know this smart ass. But we check all three for fun. Don’t come in here acting like you a hvac god. Cause you not
One thing to keep in mind with Staybrite is that it's not supposed to be used on connections on the discharge side of the compressor. The solder joint is quite strong, but solder is a material that can degrade at high temperatures when subject to pressure pulsations. It's not related to pressure itself (even at 1000 psi, the forces involved are about 10x less than the shear strength of the solder), but rather pressure pulsations -- they cause the material to fatigue and develop cracks, and this happens faster at high temps. So it's fine to use on line sets, but the compressor discharge connection should always be brazed.
its amazing how you know what your doing, it looks so complicated 😟👍
You are trying to learn how to do this ?
@@Hvacmania no just amazed me .🤓
@@Explore531 It is amazing
Mounting the compressor on the dead leaves gave me ocd convulsions lol.
I think you had other comments on it but, Stay brite is so must easier to use. Clean your joints inside and out, Put flux on the outside of pipe only then put the joint together. Use map gas with no nitrogen. Joint has to be tight. Can not fill with it. Can cut your time in half.
You might have had too much heat on the sta silv. It doesn't need near as much heat as brazing does. Either way, it came out good in the end. Glad you could help those people out.
Good thing there were no critters in the bottom of the enclosure when you were pulling all the leaves and roots and such out of there. That’s over and above IMHO.
good job getting that old beast running again>!
Started watching today - though I'm sure I had this channel recommended from elsewhere (AvE? BigClive? at least the theme sounds right!) a long time ago. I was sort'a amazed by that comment on doing more-ish than the client can afford - this made me type here! I appreciate the approach and I believe (quite strongly!) it's best for business - "builds brand" (hate marketoid lingo, but there's some reality contact there too)... And on the flip side of it, where I'm from and currently at (Poland, Europe) it's almost impossible to find any decent tradesmen - everyone who actually cared about their trade went westward - not only do they pay proper but they can actually appreciate work done well. Such a rant starter that could well go on wide and deep.
Also thanks for the reminder that as a software guy for money and a maker for fun I never really am anywhere near "this can kill you right here, just like that". Puts stuff in perspective and helps to get a proper grip on reality! Thanks!
The bird it's a drone is watching you!
The flux goes inside the joint. Also heat the opisite side from the solder. The solder should melt in from the pipe heat, not the direct flame.
We've all done it before and some will continue but, I personally never braze anything ever without nitro ! Acids and debris form and cannot be properly flushed once open air brazing has occurred. I assume u know this. So even though tight places sometimes present difficult joints it's still cutting corners. Overall good job way better than most.
I love work. I can watch it all day but especially good work.
A+ on your brazing technique. You preserved the paint on the suction dryer without using any heat sink.
Your awareness that the system being old was prone to having leaks demonstrates competence garnered from experience. You were correct when you stated you didn't think a deep vacuum was possible due to probable leaks.
Kudos to you for installing that suction line dryer.
The high moisture-removing capacity of the SD will greatly decrease the amount of moisture left in the system that you were unable to evacuate due to the leaks, plus it will neutralize the likelihood of acid in the refrigeration system (especially if that old compressor had a burn out).
Had you not taken this extra step with the SD, you would have gotten a call back within a year (most likely) to change out that compressor you installed.
In closing, keep up the good work and thanks for showing up and doing a professional job.
It’s not refrigeration!!! It’s air conditioning and there is a difference
Flux the inside like you would a plumbing fitting and you don’t need that much heat, I use a map gas tank even on 7/8 pipe, love the stuff!! Great compressor change out Curtis! Also you should put your micron gauge on the suction side and vac from the high side cause that’s the end of the system.
I have read that fluxing the pipe is more desirable as it doesn't allow much if any flux to be pushed into the system. That flux is acidic, and we know that's bad.
Came here to say this. I’ve had great luck with Staybrite 8. Takes berry little flux on the inside and not a ton of heat. MAPP gas will do it fine.
Uh oh, the boss 15:01 is comin' to check up on you, Curtis! LoL
L&I stopping by lol
I'm surprised it didn't just grow a new one.
South Florida Sound is right. I use a regular propane torch that produces a nice v shaped blue inner flame. Place the tip of the blue flame on the area to solder for best heat for the solder. Treat it just like solder, not brazing rod like the sil fos 15. Use the flux like SFS described. Remember, this Stay Brite 8 flows like solder so as you finish the sides and bottoms, back the flame off before removing the solder stem away from the joint so it won't run out of the joint, Also, this best works on closely fitted joints, Otherwise the solder could run into the inner tube. I found that out on a freezer.
it went into the capillary tube and plugged it. I have used this on R410a systems at every joint and when properly sweated have never had an issue.
I use SB8 on discharge lines on 5ton systems as well as throughout the system. Use a propane torch and flux a thin film on the male end. And don’t flow Ni which will cause holes in the soldering
when your using staybrite #8 it only requires a little amount of flame. back your torch tip back about 2” off pipe. like your using 95/5 solder or you going to burn the flux and the solder will bead up. used staybrite in the late 1970’s with great success on only suction and liquid lines with R22
Clean so it it looks brand new at least 1/2in past the joint , Flux before putting the joints together so the flux is inside the joint, heat it up then move the heat where it to where you want it to flow. I use Mapp gas, the flame turns a little green and u know it’s hot enough to flo the staybright8 nicely. That’s how I was taught and have been doing since with no issues. I don’t even own a oxy torch, never brazed anything in the field. Always staybright 8 and mapp.
I roll with the Harris silver 45 wire and Harris stay silv flux on compressor and 15 silv on the rest
ok i had to pause to This comment.
" Theres a whole ECO system down here.."
Got a good chuff on that was thinking that exact thing .. then i was astonished he actuily used the term.... thumbs up for that my firend.
Stay-clean flux for low flow temp solders such stay-brite, 50/50, 98/5 and stay-silv flux for high temp such staysilv 5,10,15 and so on.
Never Had a Tool Like What You Use To Lift Compressor Back in the 80's or 90's. Just Used a Channel Lock...
Whenever I did soldering on copper pipe I found if I get the flux in the joint before you connect it it flows better mind you I'm not an air conditioner guy it's a simple observation Lord knows y'all got your hands full
Nice job
You have to put the flux on the pipe and on the inside fitting then push them together. Also works better with a turbo torch setup. And no nitrogen flow needed.
Thanks for the tip
I just like many in comments use mapp and apply into joint not on to better results and that breaker should be replaced when they can your little helper didn't do much another great video it's always nice when able to help another sounded elderly the people thanks for sharing
Nice job on the Compressor Replacement. Great video
Thanks so much for the start to finish video it really is informative and interesting to watch. I love that compressor handle, is that made by the compressor manufacturer or is it aftermarket? it is amazing some of the hard to reach places that you techs have to work in and you did a great job and truly helped someone in need.
Viper Wet Rag works great to protect filter driers, compressors or anything you want to protect like solenoid valves etc.
Stay Brite is a soft solder that melts at a lower temp.when it runs off its because you got it too hot. I use stay clean Flux with it.
My Mitsubishi doesn’t even have power run to it yet, my house is 1953, 100 amp service, I go out and look at it after seeing some of these videos and it’s like looking in the engine room, or a Jeffries tube on the Enterprise…
I'm an audio engineer and I have to solder quite a lot. I hate silver solder. It's like one time use and it is a pain to use. Then, it can break if not done just right. Lead solder we have found to be the best still.
You use the solder like sweating water pipes and you can use a map gas torch
I believe Stay silv is brazing flux used with regular brazing rod (15% etc)..the corrext flux for stay bright 8 is called stay clean and ive seen many people actually use all different brands of soldering flux with stay bright 8
I see a few using compression fittings. Seems to be easier and faster. I wouldn't stick my hand. You might find a snake waiting on you especially if you are in the south.
hey staybrite 8 is awesome use it exclusive no leaks period that silver gets to hot goes everywhere
for the silver solder 8 you need a liquid acid not a paste, and clean the whole fitting. You don't need to get the joint as hot as the silphos joints and the solder won't build up on the joint either. if you use a bunch of solder it will just melt down into the system.
Don't think stay bright 8 is code in my state but I'd like to try it anyway. I've only recently been learning to weld/braze with Oxy/Acetylene. We come behind someone all the time who had previously silver soldered.
It will take a bit of practice as you are used to using Oxy/Acetelyn. The joints will hold well with the Stay bright 8.
Stay Brite 8 has been around for many years. I used it back in the early 1980's. Takes many joints of practice to conquer the technique. I wouldn't recommend it on any hot gas lines, I've seen it come apart in some applications. 15% with a nitrogen purge is more effective on every joint.
I use map gas for stay Brite. 8
That Gray Catbird was very curious what you were doing. Great changeout!
I would never ever use a suction line drier unless it had a removable core. Asking for problems later down the road unless you remove it.
Yes, the next comment is correct. With Silver bright you can just use map gas. The torch you are using is too hot. Be sure and flux both fittings before putting them together. Keep your heat toward the bottom of fitting or joint. You won’t need to use nitrogen if you use the mapp gas.
So many experts commenting---I have been doing this 30 yrs and you do great work. I have never used staybrite for a repair like that. I keep it on the truck- but I use it for patching tiny pin hole leaks (usually). Not to say I would start using it for joints- but interesting if it works out. Also just one question- why don't you use the micron gauge in your sman? I used to use dedicated vacuum hoses- I think 3/4" but I found that it goes just as fast with the SMAN with schraders removed. I mean maybe its 5 minutes faster with the dedicated hoses- but its not worth the hassle (to me). Just curious. Thanks for great content as always and ignore the armchair experts. fyi I only watch your videos---I find that the content is always excellent and there is never anything shady or questionably done. GREAT JOB--as always.
Really enjoy your videos!
If there are leaks in the Evaporator Coil, the owner is a fool to have fixed it in the first place. Or if you are worried about that maybe you should add some stop leak after getting it running and then clean check the Evaporator so you know. I’d also make sure the Low Pressure Control is working on that unit. You don’t want to have the Compressor go bad because of the possible leak.
why would you put a suction dryer on it without smelling gas, more times than not the gas is fine, a quick smell will tell you if its got acid
Cool compressor lift!
Mikey Pipes uses staybright 8 also
I think that was the compost bin
Some of the gas companies have flunkies filling the bottles as it’s not uncommon not to get a full tank upon replacement. And I know the Nitrogen is not being given away. It’s expensive and does add cost to the job. Using it is the right thing to do though.
StaBrite -8 S much lower temp almost like soft soldering. I think you cooked the joints at too high of a temperature. Just a thought...
Looks like they had a small compost pile in that condenser.
You do al a great job..but if you did the job for me..you need a shop@ vac to clean all the debris out of the condenser and around the unit..clean it all up.all part of the price..then job well done
When using Stay Brite 8 use Stay Clean flux. The Stay Sil is more for silver brazing rods.
And you can't use oxyacetylene, it's way too hot and it will burn away the flux almost instantly and oxidize the copper, preventing the solder from sticking. Staybrite needs about as much heat as a plumbing pipe, so propane or MAP gas is the best choice.
Ya need a shop vac for that dude wow, I personally like to use my B tank when unsettling joints then oxy ace to put the braze back….you are a lil to hot, less ace
Watched it again. The reason the stay brite rolled off was you are using the wrong flux. You need to use Stay Clean. The Stay Silver is for brazing with 46 percent silver.
The bird haha
Staybrite 8 is good shit and definitely has its place. I’m think both staybrite and brazing have their place
hey dude you don’t have to cook it staybrite is awesome you don’t even have to heat as much so no flowing nitro just solder like if you doing a plumbing job you should have done some training on it if your that apprehensive about it
Where in gods name is your shop vac???? I cant beleive you are doing this without one. OMG!!!
Like others say, flux should go on to the fittings first, like plumbers glue, so it can draw the solder in to the joint like magic...LOL.
All that leaf litter was an inferno waiting to happen, good thing the breaker could interrupt the load.
It works better using a b tank and you have to clean the copper really good.
I’m not sure there is any other short but direct. It’s either shorting to ground or phase to phase.
Maybe I should’ve said, “direct short to ground.”
You have to clean fittings and copper extremely well, flux copper and fittings
One thing I dont like bout Staybrite, is it won't fill a gap.
When soldering it would be better to have really clean copper mating surfaces and to not burn away the flux with a direct flame.
That breaker panel probably needs replacing too. Someone else goes and resets a breaker, and accidentally touches the bus bar behind it. They may not live to talk about it.
If you accidentally touch the bus bar for any reason in reality is not a good thing.
@@kennylavay8492 Yep. All the more reason why i advise they replace it, with a new one with cover in between the inside of the box and breaker levers.
great video
You have to wait until the flux gets a little crispy- then the silver will flow right. Too much heat makes weird- play with it in the shop
I like your hand piece (torch kit) .. what brand it is .. I use to have a Purox 200 but like always with good tool it is discontinued…
Man, not sure if I'd put a compressor in a 19 year old unit with a leaking coil.....that being said, its up to the customer on what they wanna do.
I understand limited funds, but a comp changeout on a 22 system just seems good money after bad. Also, I didn't see you flush the line set. Aren't you sftraid of residual acid after a burnout like that?
Practice a little with the staybrite and stayclean.
Too much heat. Takes much less.