Clunking noise is usually the sway bar links. I had this problem on my Suzuki Grand Vitara 3d. I also did lift kit and bigger tires on that car, a fun project.
Working theory right now is that the prop shaft has some play hence the clunking. I had the diff mounts changed but it didn't solve much. Also nice to see I'm not the only one with clunking.
Climb under the car, and start turning parts back and forth with your hands while holding other parts. You should be able to find it quickly. I found my clunk by holding the rear CV axle inner joint and turning the shaft in the middle of the CV axle.
Where did you get that exhaust manifold? My 99 came from California I believe, its got the big ugly manifold/cat combo Id like to replace since the car is creeping on 200k miles.
Yes, I think the 2 wire sensor would work. I was concerned the exhaust may not be as hot in the middle of the car and that's why I went with the heated sensor. I drove the car a few times without the downstream sensor and the computer didn't notice, so it might not be important if you don't get the heated sensor.
thank you so much paul for your reply... I have a 97 4door that I'm working on and I have done everything on it that you have done on yours besides the old man emu lift wich will be done in the near future and this exhaust upgrade, I live in Costa Rica so i don't think the exhaust getting up to proper temp will be a problem for me ... but here in my country i have to pass that dreaded emission sniff test, with the sniffer in the tail pipe i don't know if not having the hated 02 sensor will affect this test or not... only one way to find out... again thank you for your videos!!!!
I'm 13 minutes into the video and I love it, Paul! Now you'll make a few more hours pers! Also, a little bird told me that it's the cv axles.. so, my guess is the cv axles is the next video.. 😬😬
My guess for the next video? Differential mounts. My rav4 clunked horribly ( also a manual transmission, 1999) until I changed the rear diff mount (or cushion, as Toyota calls it).
I heard that's a common problem on these cars. When I replaced my suspension, I got a new rear diff mount from Toyota. My clunking is mostly from the inner CV joints in the rear. I bought CV axles from Autozone and they have tons of play. Stock Toyota axles have none.
A lot of people want to see the 3sgte swap. It's an awesome engine. Right now I'm doing videos about the repairs that my RAV4 needs the most. My engine has a new cylinder head and the bottom end is in excellent condition. Replacing the engine is last on my priority list. If I do a swap, I think a 1mz-fe might be more appropriate. That's a 3.0 liter V6 from a Camry with about 200 hp. Here's my reasoning: 3sgte puts out 260hp or more, and my stock e250f 5-speed manual transmission will probably break. If I change my transmission, I don't get the lower first gear and final drive of the RAV4, making it worse off road. My car is already unstable at speed, so I don't need a faster engine and faster gearing. My transmission can handle the 200 hp from the V6. It won't be Japanese, so finding parts and passing emissions will be no problem. I'll have more power and torque than stock, and it's a more appropriate engine for off road use.
Yes! You're exactly right! The inner CV joints in the rear have a ton of play. I thought my differential was blown up until I climbed under the car and started feeling all the parts. The cheap Chinese crap they sell at Autozone is much worse than just an old CV axle from the junkyard.
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Clunking noise is usually the sway bar links.
I had this problem on my Suzuki Grand Vitara 3d. I also did lift kit and bigger tires on that car, a fun project.
My clunking is in the drivetrain. The cheap CV axles I bought from Autozone have a ton of play.
I hate flex pipes as well, thanks for the video!
Working theory right now is that the prop shaft has some play hence the clunking.
I had the diff mounts changed but it didn't solve much. Also nice to see I'm not the only one with clunking.
Climb under the car, and start turning parts back and forth with your hands while holding other parts. You should be able to find it quickly.
I found my clunk by holding the rear CV axle inner joint and turning the shaft in the middle of the CV axle.
Yet another great video, Paul!
How did you get the check engine light to turn off? I have a 1998 rav4 and did the same thing to mine, but the pesky check engine light is still on.
I use the eDiag YA-101 scan tool to check for codes and turn the light off. amzn.to/3JmqqGe
@@LabCoatPaul I’ll order one, thanks for answering.
Where did you get that exhaust manifold? My 99 came from California I believe, its got the big ugly manifold/cat combo Id like to replace since the car is creeping on 200k miles.
I got the exhaust manifold from a 1999 RAV4 at the junkyard, federal emissions version.
what size is the ac cooling fan?
🔔🎉🎅🎁🎄MERRY CHRISTMAS LAB COAT PAUL !!! Love your vid's....
Thanks for watching! The RAV4 is still a clunker so there will be many more repairs.
Please include replacing the driveshaft center support bearing please.! Thank you 😁
I will do this at some point. The driveshaft in my car is very rusty, so I want to clean it and get new U-joints, as well as that center bearing.
would using the regular original 2 wire 02 sensor behind the cat under the car work as well??
Yes, I think the 2 wire sensor would work. I was concerned the exhaust may not be as hot in the middle of the car and that's why I went with the heated sensor.
I drove the car a few times without the downstream sensor and the computer didn't notice, so it might not be important if you don't get the heated sensor.
thank you so much paul for your reply... I have a 97 4door that I'm working on and I have done everything on it that you have done on yours besides the old man emu lift wich will be done in the near future and this exhaust upgrade, I live in Costa Rica so i don't think the exhaust getting up to proper temp will be a problem for me ... but here in my country i have to pass that dreaded emission sniff test, with the sniffer in the tail pipe i don't know if not having the hated 02 sensor will affect this test or not... only one way to find out... again thank you for your videos!!!!
( I should have never sold my green 2 door rav4, been looking for another 4wd manual, almost impossible to find)
The 2 door is pretty rare. You'll find one if you keep looking.
lol, my eyes hurt from that purple lol
I'm 13 minutes into the video and I love it, Paul! Now you'll make a few more hours pers! Also, a little bird told me that it's the cv axles.. so, my guess is the cv axles is the next video.. 😬😬
Sometimes birds are right. Good guess!
Can you do a video about IACV wiring for a 99 rav4 please
Good job
My guess for the next video? Differential mounts. My rav4 clunked horribly ( also a manual transmission, 1999) until I changed the rear diff mount (or cushion, as Toyota calls it).
I heard that's a common problem on these cars. When I replaced my suspension, I got a new rear diff mount from Toyota. My clunking is mostly from the inner CV joints in the rear. I bought CV axles from Autozone and they have tons of play. Stock Toyota axles have none.
@@LabCoatPaul ahh I see. Not just missing a snap ring or something?
I like your video
Paul when you gonna swap your engine with 3s-gte engine ?
Yay new RAV4 Video!
I feel that way too whenever I upload a video because they take forever to make.
❤
Can you do a 4th gen 3sgte swap
A lot of people want to see the 3sgte swap. It's an awesome engine. Right now I'm doing videos about the repairs that my RAV4 needs the most. My engine has a new cylinder head and the bottom end is in excellent condition. Replacing the engine is last on my priority list.
If I do a swap, I think a 1mz-fe might be more appropriate. That's a 3.0 liter V6 from a Camry with about 200 hp. Here's my reasoning:
3sgte puts out 260hp or more, and my stock e250f 5-speed manual transmission will probably break. If I change my transmission, I don't get the lower first gear and final drive of the RAV4, making it worse off road. My car is already unstable at speed, so I don't need a faster engine and faster gearing.
My transmission can handle the 200 hp from the V6. It won't be Japanese, so finding parts and passing emissions will be no problem. I'll have more power and torque than stock, and it's a more appropriate engine for off road use.
Put a metro engine in it! Don't forget the struts.
This one already has a lift kit, but the geo metro was badass. I kind of want another one just for off roading.
It’s the CV axles isn’t it
Yes! You're exactly right! The inner CV joints in the rear have a ton of play. I thought my differential was blown up until I climbed under the car and started feeling all the parts. The cheap Chinese crap they sell at Autozone is much worse than just an old CV axle from the junkyard.
Bad engine mounts are the reason my flex pipe kept breaking
Thanks! Yes, I'll probably replace my engine mounts soon.
CV Joints or Universal joints
You got it right! My Autozone CV axles have a ton of play, especially the rear inner CV joints. They have less than 10K miles.
As to a guess I replace my sway bar end links and the clunking went away
Good guess! I have new sway bar links but the clunk is in the drivetrain, not the suspension. I need CV axles.