Woodturning Q&A wax finishes and chucks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I talk about the Paste wax and Mineral oil finish I use to sand with and way. I also talk about chucks and how to cut a tenon for the chuck.
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Welcome to my channel, I have a new project video every Friday with wood turning tips and projects. Taking you from start to finish with a ruff piece of wood to your sanded and finished project.
Very nice. This will help out a lot of novices and is also good info for everybody. Kusos for investing your time helping the woodturning community.
I am just get back into turning after being away for 50+ years (high school). Got a lathe along with a NOVA G3. I cut a tenon (to wide) and just like you said, IT WOBBLED! I didn't know what I was doing wrong until I saw this video. THANK YOU!!!
The other thing with mineral oil and wax. Several years ago I was working in a horse barn that had sawdust as bedding for the horses. Mucking the stalls I came down with pneumonia from inhaling the dust. I have a dust mask, which I wear religiously in my shop. I don't have an air filtration system (yet), and even with the mask I was still inhaling dust. I think the trick with the wax and mineral oil will take care of that problem. Saying Thank You isn't enough. Hopefully knowing you probably prevented me from contracting pneumonia again will mean something. Anyway THANK YOU!!!
Thanks Carl . . . blessings . . .
I dont know why my post didn't appear before?? But Carl I have uses your wax/ oil blend many times and it works great. However, I have tried something new that also works great. It's your same mixture, but i use "Old English Polish" in Lieu of the mineral oil. The highlights of the wood grain real stands out. It will make the wood a little darker. But it really work well. Enjoy and try it. Thanks Carl. Ted
Thanks Carl. I just bought the same chuck last week. I hope I get 16 years out of mine.
I always wondered this.. I've watched your channel for a real long time now and then took a break for a few years but now i'm getting back into wood turning again and had these questions. Thankfully the comments have answered all of them. I can't wait to test this against capt eddies shine juice and a few of the others I've seen. I've picked up a bunch of stuff from paste wax to shellac to lacquer to poly and CA glue to find out for myself what I will use in what situation, first starting with pens and tool handles, and then eventually bowls and larger items when I finally get a chuck and a larger lathe. This is too exciting!
Yes I don't change it very often.
Tips and Tricks, Thanks Carl, I appreciate your time.
You can put a finish like "Salad Bowl Oil" on after but not a polyurethane over the wax.
Thanks for the quick reply. It's on my shopping list to try. I'll post what the results are.
Thank you,
I think It's a lot easier for me to show someone in a video then to try an explain it in a email a lot of times.
Take care,
Carl
So simple and discovered it via your video . Again thanks Bob
+Robert Helveston Thank you Bob!
Glad to help John,
Yes it is, I'm going to try it too, Great idea Ted,
Hi Don,
I do use Salad Bowl Oil sometimes it gives it a little more gloss and it's food safe.
Carl; just to let you know that as a long time cabinet maker and new wood turner i tried your idea of wax sanding and its a great idea. I also tried the hot glue gun idea to mount stuff and that worked good as well. Thanks for all the good tips
+mbiraside Thank you! Glad to help :)
Thanks Carl great video
Sorry for the late reply Tom. I keep dipping it into the can to clean the sand paper off. I've never had it build up on just one part though.
Thanks Ted, This will help a lot it's hard to find Mineral oil overseas. I will give it a try, Old English Polish is probably easier to find.
Take care,
Carl
That's a great tip on reducing the dust produced and I look forward to seeing more from your new channel. :-)
Thanks for the video Carl. I was always wondering "What was in the can?" and when I googled "the best waxes for wood turning" your video was like the first hit. Thanks again for the Info! BIG help.
-Jason
Thank you Jason, and thank you for sharing the video
Hello Carl,just been discovering your videos and am enjoying them very much.i am just getting back to working on a lathe and looking forward to getting pointers from your videos.keep up the great work.
Just got back from Walgreens. They had the mineral oil on the laxative aisle. I'll try this technique on my next project.
thanks i use walnut oil instead of min oil but am going to try old english cut as in life its the small things
I've suscribed for a long time now and the only thing that i have found problems with is. The video's are never long enough, so in future no video under 3 hours please. This way i have enough time after me evening meal to watch one of your videos before bed.
ATVB
Roger
Great idea Carl hope your new channel is a huge success. It should be your other channel is great
Thank you I'll try and post one a week.
Hi Paul, I think I talked about this in one of the videos. I sand at about 600 rpm.
Thank you Colin,
Overseas!! I thought you lived in Oregon on the West coast? But, the "Old English Polish" works great and you can find it anywhere here in the states! It's nice to have a can of your and a can of the Old English. Let me know how it works for you.
Thank you Bill, I subscribed to your channel great stuff keep up the good work.
Take care,
Carl
Thanks Ron, Save me some popcorn I'll see you in March.
Take care,
Carl
Thanks Mike, I'm working on moving my lathe so I can get a good angle for the camera. I'll do a video as soon as I can on this.
Take care,
Carl
Thanks for creating this channel. Can you do a video on proper bowl gouge technique for face grain turning? Seen plenty of other videos, but none with an explanation on what they are doing with the tool, the feel and why.
Hi Carl, I really enjoy watching your videos. Could you please do a video on what speeds to set your lathe to when turning and sanding?
Hi Rich, The new video will be up Monday and it covers this.
Take care,
Carl
Thank you! I was wondering what was in the can. I got the mineral oil part right, but wasn't sure which wax.
Good info, thx!
I've started you sanding technique and it works great and allows for a terrific, scratch-free finish. Do you ever put any other finish on top of the wax/oil mixture to get a more durable glossy finish????
Hi Carl, I was wondering which jaw set you use on your Nova chuck? I bought a Nova G3 that came with 4 sets of jaws, but none of them look like the ones you use. The set you use looks like it would be better for all around general use. Love the new site!
Thanks,
Tim
First, I used this mixture to sand my latest project and it was amazingly better than simply dry sanding! Way to go. Thank you....but this leads to a question.
After using the paste wax in the sanding step, can it be followed by a friction polish using equal parts of shellac, denatured alcohol and boiled linseed oil? OR will the wax inhibit the friction polish from working properly?
Hi Michael,
I got mine at Woodcraft but I think there all about the same.
Nice tips!
+SP Wood Art Thank you!
Ted, I do live in Oregon but there are a lot of people overseas that can't find the mineral oil.
Hello Carl. A top vid as usual.
I noticed in your reply to Ted Koski that you said mineral oil can be hard to find overseas. Here in Australia, it's more commonly known as paraffin oil and pretty easy to find under that name. (Also unscented baby oil, though scented might be nice too.)
Keep up the great work.
Edit: I assume friction polish, (UBeaut Shellawax), is OK over the wax/oil mix?
wouldn't the thickness of the wax "clog" the 400 so the grits aren't getting to do actual sanding?
Hi if you use the wax to sand with you can't apply a finish like polyurethane after. You need to sand it dry.
Hi Roger, I'll see what I can do LOL!!
What about Deft after the mineral oil/wax mixture. Will it adhere? Thanks and I really appreciate and enjoy your videos.
The wax is Carnauba. The Brazil, (parents where I live) is the only producer in the world.
I've heard good things about Benjamin's Best Tools.
Do you put a finish on after you sand with the oil and wax.
Thanks
Hi Tim,
I'm not sure it came with the chuck. When it's closed I think it's 2 1/4"
Take care,
Carl
Carl how about an update on finishes?
carl I love this finish,,its great,,what can I put over it to get more gloss
jeff oldham You can use a friction polish. Something like Crystal coat.
If you plan to apply a finish to your work do you still use the wax? If so how do you remove it for finishing?
Might be a silly question but does this technique of sanding remove the directional sanding marks common in dry sanding? I have always sanded at roughly 600rpm and then stopped and sanded by hand in the direction of the grain prior to moving on to a finer grit. Great video, btw!
+Anthony Reda Thank you Anthony! No this technique just cuts down on the sanding dust.
Is that the main one you use?
I'm not sure, I've never tried it over the wax and oil.
Hi, Carl. In many of your older videos you used the wax and oil, I've used it on your suggestion and like it. I see you using a lot of the Howard Bee's wax and orange oil now. I have some of that and like it too. I recently did a bowl out of Ash and finished it with the Bee's wax and orange oil. It really soaked it up (about 4 or 5 applications) and I think I need to get more coats on it. I don't get much of a shine out of this product. On some pieces I like the look of the Bee's wax and oil, I think it is a really warm natural look. I recently did a bowl in Ash and I think it looks pretty good. But, I really want to get a shine on this bowl the more I look at it. Is there a way to get something on top of the Bee's wax and oil that will get a shine on it. I thought about trying some paste wax, but think I may need to get some more oil on it first. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks. FYI, it's not on the lathe anymore, it's finished off.
Have you tried a friction polish like Hut Crystal Coat? It might give you a nice shine. I'm not what else what you can put over the top of it at this point.
Okay my friend, I have been trying the paste wax and mineral oil. Works great most of the time but every once in a while I get a waxy build up on my project, not over the whole project, just on a part of it. I end up have to re-sand this part of the bowl. Any ideas? Too fast? Too slow?
Why mix the mineral oil w/ the wax when you say mineral oil first and then coat w/ wax to keep oil from creating a ring. Wouldn't the mix still leave oil uncoated?
Why the mineral oil at all? Does the wax not bring out enough shine ?
The mineral oil really darkens up the wood. You can mix it in with the wax it'll do the same thing.
I have used the Huts over oil, but not the oil and wax yet, so can't say if it worked over the wax yet. But I really like the Huts so far.
My question now is this. Is it food safe if I use the wax over the mineral oil?
It doesn't say on the can that paste wax is food safe.
+Carl Jacobson: Yeah, Carl. that's the thing. I used to see you use the oil and wax a lot. so I thought you may know if it's food safe. I'll probably need to assume it's not and strip the wax with alcohol and go straight oil finish. The oil looked great, I should have left it alone.
So, I tried the paste wax idea, but it keeps fouling the sand paper, how do you get around that?
hey carl, great tips and helpful tips man! i was wondering if you can tell me how better to use my cole jaws for the piece i am building and turning. the piece i am working now is a lidded bowl. the top of the bowl is smaller in diameter than the bottom in diameter and so it is bottomheavy. i put the piece in the cole jaws so i can finish turning the outside bottom. the problem i am having is the bowl keeps coming out of the cole jaws..so not only is it unsafe but i run the risk of damaging the bowl in the process. this has happened twice now. can you advise me on how better to use my cole jaws or even another idea you might have to help me. thanks beau
Hi Beau,
I would use a jam chuck between centers. This is probably the safest and easiest way.
thanks for the advice. after sanding with the way you suggest do I need to polish with anything else?
john pretlove Thank you John, I put a finial coat of bees wax over the top.
so do you use the oil and wax separately as well? you mentioned using the wax after using the oil, and then mixing the two as well to sand with, I wasn't sure about that.
Hi Bill,
Yes use them separately too, but I've switched to Howard Bees Wax. It's not as expensive.
would you recommend a nova chuck on a mini lathe from harbor freight tools?
***** Ya it should work fine as long as the TPI are the same.
Thank you! Love your projects!
Hi Carl, is chopping block oil ok to use for this purpose?
Hi Carl! I am running to an issue with finish products. I applied black tea and a steel wool mixture to a large table hubby made and now achieved a great worn gray brown color I want! All water based polys and spray acrylics I have sampled are turning back to brown, I want it to stay gray tone. Do you suggest a wax for a sealer ? If so would I use plain beeswax or the crystal clear paste wax from staples you use in video? I saw you mentioned Howard's bees wax with orange oil- thought that was a conditioner? Would either of these work for my dinning table to keep the gray not yellow over time nor change the color I achieved?
Hi Charlene, I'm not sure I only apply it to bare wood.
I would never use mineral oil. The problem is, it never dries. Or more accurately, it takes a very long time to dry.
Carl, this may be a dumb question. but this mixture of paste and oil. Is it also used as your sanding sealer? or do you apply sanding sealer after this wax. And then is it compatible with all other finish say CA, Varnish or polyurethane?
+ScottMcNorton I just use Beeswax as a final finish. You want to put any CA glue on first! and... it's not compatible with varnish or polyurethane. I like the satin finish this gives.
Carl, where can I find some quality, inexpensive chisels?
is coconut oil ok or would that go rancid over time?
holographicbreathin I'm not sure, I've never used Coconut oil for a finish. I do know Vegetable oil goes rancid after a while.
Carl Jacobson thank you Carl. I am new to this. I am using ash and wanted to keep its white colour. I put first walnut oil on it then a mix of walnut and bees wax. the wood went dark is there a way round this?
Hi Carl,
Can you recommend a good #2mt drill chuck?
Is the wax and mineral oil food safe? Also, is there any specific woodturning websites that sell used turning tools? (Besides ebay). I ask just bc starting out is becoming expensive, especially if you don't know if or how you're going to like different brands and tools!
Nicolie Cannoli I don't know of any websites that sell used turning tool. I would keep looking on Ebay or Craigslist.
Thanks Carl! Keeping my eyes open always!
+Nicolie Cannoli Staples wax paste is not food safe because it has Stoddard solvent and Gum Turpentine in it as drying agents. But there are plenty of food safe finishes like butcher block finish. Also there are wax pastes that are food safe like beeswax paste and carnauba wax paste. Hope it helps.
is beeswax the only finish you use
+Larry Pierce I started using Howard beeswax and orange oil, it works very well.
Thank you Jeff,
Thank you David,