How-to Frame a Basement(How to layout basement walls) Part 2 of 6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
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In this video we continue learning how to layout our basement walls so that we end up with perfectly straight and plumb walls with perfect 90 degree crisp inside and outside framed corners.
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![Basement Finishing A to Z (Part 1) [Layout to Drywall]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x5NWrVvi1_M/mqdefault.jpg)
I have watched tons of videos on home improvement. But this dude is the best educator ever. I watched his video to finish my basement 3 years ago. Friends and even contractors were mesmerized by the outcome that I started a handyman business. Thanks
That's Awesome! Thanks for watching my brother. Good luck with your business.
I use a laser level now but have my dad’s plumb bob and all of his tools. He was a master carpenter. He passed in 1977 at 45. I was 13. I can appreciate the tried and true methods.
This guy should have a few million subscribers.. one of the best I've found yet
Thanks brother! Much appreciated.
Love how you teach
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! ~Eddie
Best video details and description out there!
This is by far the best DIY framing video (series) on TH-cam. I’ve been searching for years (literally) for a step by step breakdown and have finally found d it here. Thanks so much, Eddie.
Your welcome! Thanks for this awesome feedback.
This is a great video….He is an excellent teacher👍👍
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! ~Eddie
Thank you for making these videos ... my dad passed away before we had a chance to do this level of work together ... glad some guys aren’t scared to teach others ! I’m one “millennial” who truly appreciates the knowledge !!!
Eric I just saw this comment...You're welcome, I wish your dad could be here with you to work on the space...Best is all you do! ~Eddie
Hey Eddie!
Brother, I can't thank you enough for making this video... starting my basement remodel and this info is fantastic.
keep up the great work!!!!!!!!
8:20 "It's WRONG!".. Love the attitude. :)
Love your level of detail. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome series! One of the best explaining basement layout/framing!
Thanks brother...it's not Rocket Science! ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Maybe not rocket science, but wow. All the little details that make life easier and the results better! Thank you!
@@randallsmith7885 Thank you Randall...Good luck with the framing, I'm here if you have questions brother. ~Eddie
Thanks for the detailed information. Great Work.
This is exactly the video i was looking for. Great video and explanation. Keep it up sir!
Thanks for the views and the positive comments John Wick! ~Eddie
Great video and awesome advice...but who was the genius plumber to unnecessarily run a main sewer line in front of a window like that and it doesn’t seem pitched correctly either. I would be really upset if I owned that house...that is another obstacle you will have to account for when framing that window. Just makes your life a bit more challenging, but you will figure it out!
Thanks DiGi! I don't know who the plumber was...that plumbing I'm assuming is all original and was installed by whom ever built the house.
I was thinking the same thing
I would suggest the owner to call the plumber to correct it. It completely wrong. I would not buy the house with that way of plumbing.
Whats wrong with it?
@@jamesfain7380 The pipe is in the way of the window. Check out 6:47 . Idk about you, but I’d like nothing running across my window opening.
the best best video i had ever seen thank you sir
First of all, great videos! They filled all the gaps in what I didn't know what to do and then some! I do have two situations that I would like your input on how to handle.
1. The basement has a load bearing all that exists running north and south in my house. It ends before the stairs coming down(think of them in the middle) and has a door opening. I need to run a wall that will intersect that right at the opening (running east and west). If I measure out the 6 inches from the foundation (It has the insulation blanket), the wall will no longer meet correctly. What is the best way to handle that?
2. I have another wall that I need to build that will be running east and west (exterior), however, there is a rough in for a shower/tub there. I worry if I go in the 6 inches, it will mess with the placement of the rough-in drain. Is that a non-issue and I should just do it?
The best videos with precise explanation. Thank you
I am enjoying eity with this video sequence Eddie.
I am learning a lot buddy! A lot!
Tkx for share your knowledgment with us.
Att. Trindade
You're welcome!
Eddie,, I have a similar situation and your cats solved my problem..
Awesome!
Proper construction screws and an impact driver can substitute for a framing nailer and compressor. A lot less complicated and they're very forgiving if someone makes a mistake.
Hey Eddie, is it required to put a foam seal on the concrete floor under the pressure-treated plate? Do you know if it is code required? Thank you for all you do !
Not needed…not code!
Excellent vid!
Thank You Avalon!
This is so great, thank you 1000 times basement finishing guy!
Thanks for watching! You’re welcome…good luck with your projects! -Eddie
What if there’s not enough room to build the wall and stand it up?
What’s the best way to build the wall??
Ils there a video showing how you framed that window, the large pipe at top as obstacle. I have the same situation.
Thanks.
Hey love your work. I've been wanting to do this for 20 years, finally getting around to it. Those "cats" you talk about, no toenail needed, just the two nails? I don't think I could get my framing nailer in there anyway, not load bearing either, so guess I answered my own question. lol
No the way that they are fitted requires no toenails in the back Craig! Thanks for watching...
How would you wood-block or cut Cats if you have engineered I-joists?
Hi Eddie, great video. Thanks!
So regarding the Cats, should they be nailed to the other end (stud running around/on the basement walls?) If they're not nailed how would the wall frame stay attached firmly?
Amaaaazing !!!
What type 3.25 nails I’d you use…when at HD I see the 3.25 nailer but the nails say 3” none say 3.25”, details needed such as … gauge .120 .131 etc, smooth shank, ring shank. This will be first rodeo, lumber, compressor , etc in basement years but this series has given me push to get the nailer to wrap project
Hey I love these vids . Couple of questions . Is it ok to use a 3d laser level rather than a plumb Bob? Any issues , besides speed, with using a hammer and regular nails?
Finally do you have a video that deals with creative ways to handle duct work with a low ceiling ?
Thanks again!
Yes absolutely! We actually use our Lasers more now than the Plumb bob...
Yes you can certainly hand-nail the framing together. As a matter of fact we used to do all of our framing that way years ago...nothing wrong with a pouch of 16 penny framing nails and a good old fashioned hammer to get things done!
Thank you
You're welcome brother!
Ive been working on a field stone foundation that has plus or minus 2 to inches in places. How do you compensate for that? I split the difference and see how much wonkiness I can live with
Is there it a normal practice to measure 4 1/2 inches from the wall? There will be space in between the concrete wall and the framing studs. Should the new wall be against the concrete? Please advice, I’m flaying solo in this project 😆 thank you for your videos and help.
Stay away 4.5”. You don’t not want to be up against and touching the masonry wall. -Eddie
Even if you used a vapor and moisture barrier? I’m Just trying save as much living space.
Can framing be installed over (potentially) asbestos tiles as opposed to removing down to concrete? I'm sure you'd recommend full professional assessment/removal, but I'm just wondering if it can be done.
Because my menards 2 x 4s are far from perfect, this crowning according to the best practice approach faces up when attaching to bottom plate and top plate, thereby when you slide the top plate into position then the bottom plate, the crown faces the interior of the room? Is this 100% of the case and won't that be visible when the drywall is up? Basic I know, just making sure. Great vids sir!
If I am framing my walls off of the concrete foundation walls do I absolutely have to use wall wrap?
What about the drain clean out plugs? Don't they stick out farther than the pipe hanger?
Thanks for this vid
For the Rams at nails for wall blocking. Do you use the regular 2 1/2 inch or the slow velocity 2 1/2 inch?
We Use regular 2.5" pins and yellow # 4 or red #5 load.
Thank you!!! I was blowing out the 2x4 with the 2” and the 3”wouldn’t go deep enough. I found pre drilling lessened by 2x4 wall blocks splitting.
Also went pressure treated with the one against concrete just incase!
Plumb bob certainly not the only way to get a straight line. Laser levels work too lol. And a lot easier if I may say
We use them too...but the plumb bob gives you the same results...just takes a little longer! here's what we use most of the time>>> th-cam.com/video/TZ0S12In_M4/w-d-xo.html ~Eddie
I have rigid foam against my rim joists. In hindsight, I should have cut out the rigid so I could have my 2x4 blocking go from the joist to the rim. It is glued against the rim so to try to cut out for the 2x now will be a pain. After insulating, I have about 1/2 " of sill plate exposed. Can I rest that end of the blocking on that little lip and toenail a screw into the sill, rather than having my blocking go all the way back to the rim? Thanks!
That should be okay Nicole. ~Eddie
Perhaps beyond the scope of your video series, but I want to finish my basement, and i have piping (electoral) that sits below/attached to the bottom of the joists. I'd like to drill a hole(s) through the joists so I can have a drywall ceiling. What are your thoughts. I should mention there is already holes through the joists for plumbing.
I have not got too far on your videos yet, but I am in the process of designing a basement and want to know about whether I should use a drop ceiling or try and build a soffit around every drop and pipe and wire bundle that is below my joists.
I don't do any drop ceilings so I'm saying soffits in all areas that you need to hide overhead obstacles!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan In my case I have linear obstacles as well as obstacles that traverse diagonally - what are your suggestions for aesthetics.
Quick question. If I plan on blacking out my ceiling do I need the top 2x4?
Hi could you help me to understand How much space we need to give between basement wall and framing please
1”
Is it true that 4’’ inch gap also work ? Between concrete wall and our framing ? Please help
Could you frame on the parallel joist if that is exactly where you want your wall? Or do you need to have a block/cat?
It depends, in my case and I guess in case of this particular project the gap between the immediate available Joist and the concrete wall is bit too big. 14” in case of this video. So in that case you can (should) use cats. Otherwise there will be a gap between the concrete wall and the frame and hence the drywall. I don’t know the technicalities but it’s not advisable plus you will unnecessarily loose a lot of space
Eddie, super helpful content. Best I've seen on TH-cam. I'm considering framing my garage that has concrete walls and already has a finished (sheetrock) ceiling. If cats are needed to be installed for the walls that are parallel to the joists, then I should plan on opening up the ceiling from the wall edge to the closest joist, right? Thanks!
Yes that is correct Geoff! Cut out that portion of drywall just where you think you'll be installing the wood blocking (cats) and install away! Then your solid to build your new wall in those areas where you are parallel with the ceiling joists. Thanks for watching! ~Eddie
If I am going to have a bathroom in basement which already has rough plumbing, what should be the sequence? Framing, Electrical, Drywall, flooring and bathroom last?
I'm surprised that pipe in front of the window passed inspection.
I would've made the builder move it when the house was constructed.
That pipe across the window is just crazy.
My first thought was like WTF was they thinking when the did that.
Wouldn't a lazer lever be easier then using a plumb bob
Can you use a laser level in place of a plumbob or to double check your lines after you snap them?
Absolutely! -Eddie
Couldn't you use a Laser level to get the lines for the top?
Absolutely! It's faster as well...we are now using a laser on most wall layout's. ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Thank you for responding. Do you still use chalk line with Laser level?
@@about2flip Yes absolutely...you always need to chalk a line on the ceiling before you start framing.
Eddie, how did you frame out by that egress window with the pipe in front of it?
can i ask why start 6" from the concrete wall behind the vapor? Is it for airflow? An exact reason wasn't mentioned and I'm just curious. Thank you!
Just maximizing room size really…nothing to do with airflow…
Can you build the wall framing that you are showing in this video with metal framing instead of wood? Thanks in advance
i have a silly question. if you are coming out from the foundation wall 6", why does the 5 1/2 " of the pipe hanger being from the wall matter? wouldn't the framed wall already clear the pipe?
the outside edge of the floor plate would be at 6” so the inside edge of the wall (3.5” closer) would hit the pipe hanger and pipe.
How did you accommodate that short piece of capped sewage pipe sticking straight out?
What if we don’t have the band or rom joist. Just concrete straight up?
Do you need to nail the other side of the cats towards the inside?
No you do not...
@@BasementFinishingMan Thank you
@@BasementFinishingMan I have 2" of rigid foam on my rim joist that is parallel to my floor joists. When I try to install my "cats", I only have about a half inch of sill plate to rest on. Do you think I should dig out the rigid in spots where I am adding cats, taking the 2x to the back of the rim joist...or would it be ok to add a screw at an angle to the sill plate? Thanks!
How do I install cats with hard foam insulation blocking the way to the rim joist? What are my options?
Dig some of the foam out for the blocks… it’s really the best way to do it…it’s what we do Zach.
@@BasementFinishingMan Makes sense. Thank you!
Hey Eddie - From watching all your videos, I know you're a big proponent of straight walls. At what point, meaning how many inches out would you say it's worth building around? For instances, I have a water meter and a piece of duct work on my exterior wall that will force me to frame 13" + 3.5" (16.5")out in order to have a straight wall. Is that too much space to leave between walls? I'm okay with the space I'll have left, but wasn't sure if that will present any future challenges? Thanks again for these videos!
4" or 16" it does not matter as long as you are plumbing your walls and snapping wall lines on the concrete floor and the bottom of the floor joists Rob.
But...I would probably use my "block-nailing" technique and save that extra 12" of room width.
Eddie
Appreciate the responses, Eddie. Is the "block-nailing" technique your wood blocking video? Good video, I guess I along with some of the other commenters were wondering if you did not put the pipes in a closet, would you just soffit around it?
Use a laser.
Can I use a laser level to do the same thing as the plum bob?
Yes you can Shawn and it's a whole lot faster and easier than the plumb bob. ~Eddie
Here's the one we use Shawn... Laser Level Link: amzn.to/38uIyeU
Hi Eddie. I have copper heating pipes that are about 4" from my foundation wall, and in the way of securing the top plate to the joists. The obstacle goes almost the whole length of the room, with the exception of about 3 joists that I can actually nail the top plate to. From this video, it seems that I should build my wall in front of the copper pipes. There is also a window along this length...so it seems like it would create a very wide window sill. I couldn't find a video on this, put how to you frame near the window in this case as there will be a gap? Thanks!
You need to block-nail technique that wall. I do have videos on my TH-cam channel where I show you how it’s done.
Eddie
my basement has bottom plate to staple the wall wrap so how far should be my frame's bottom plate ?
Is a laser level a modern plumb bob?
...in so many words, Yes you could say that's correct.
I have a couple of question: I'll be working on my basement soon and fell lucky my ceiling doesn't require major adjustments. However, I was wondering what could be the best way to cover the water lines that are just about 2.5 inches beneath the joists. I plan to have the same height for the ceiling in one big room. Should I put 2 by 4s all around (16 inches on center) and then install the drywall. When framing, I should start with all the walls and then the ceiling? Thanks!
Sir where can I find the insulation that’s on the concrete wall ??
Eddie what about using a laser?
Thanks for the video. I have a question about the basement floor chalk line location. Is it okay for the wood studs to be installed right up to (touching) the vinyl cover of the blanket insulation? I understand that you shouldn't compress the fiberglass within or it would lose some R value, but what about moisture transfer between vinyl blanket surface and wood stud?
don't compress insulation - you've got that right. wood can touch vinyl directly - it's a vapor barrier (moisture on one side wont get into the wood that's on the other). make sure wood does not touch concrete directly - some not all provinces or states allow pressure treated lumbers in this case if necessary.
My wall wrap from the builder only goes halfway down the wall. Do I need to extend it down to the floor? Do I then put R13 over it between the studs? Thanks in advance
No need to finish it down to the floor...Just add the new "unfaced" R-13 insulation(no paper vapor barrier) to the newly framed exterior walls and your good to go!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Thanks Eddie! so floor to ceiling over the top of the wall wrap with the R13 then?
Instead of a plumb Bob, can we use a laser instead. I think the vibration from kids running upstairs would mess it for me.
Hey Eddie, recently bought a house with an unfinished basement. i want to DIY, but my main concern is MOLD. I live in Maryland so it is similar climate to your stomping grounds. I just havent heard you talk much about it, is there a video i am missing somewhere?
what is your opinion on using metal studs?
Do not like them! They fundamentally change every other mechanical aspect of the basement project...from how you rough-in electric, plumbing to how you install your trim and doors...etc...NOT A FAN!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan are they cheaper then using wood? i prefer wood myself but i am about to do a basement and im trying to convince my co worker why wood is better then metal! i could use any info you have on the matter to make my case! thank you!
Metal studs are for commercial projects, not residential.
Do you use 2x4 ground contact AC2 green pressure treated lumber or the regular ones?
Green all the way!
~Eddie
How did you get the line straight on the floor? I have rock foundation
I have a sump pump drain/trench, would I come out 6inches or 4 1/2 inches? I am in Camp Hill, so close to the house in this video.
why not blue chalk but your videos are amazing
Why not use laser level ?
We do use lasers as well...they awesome and very accurate! Thanks for watching my brother, good luck with your projects. ~Eddie
Can I double scab the ceiling joists. With 2 2x4s every 2 feet instead of 1?
Code wise
I understand coming out on the wall but that pipe is hanging to low over the window and should be raised
You are correct Jamie and it was raised just over the window framing. ~Eddie
Instead of a Plum Bob why don't you use a laser line?
We do...Just didn't make a video on it yest...But we will eventually!
Eddie
I just watch your "talk" on how you build the wall on the ground first. What do you do when you dont think you have enough room to build the wall on the floor first. its a laundry room. I have a 12ft in length and 6ft of that wall I only have 4 ft of space on the floor. Should I build half on the floor?
Mirrors Truth I have this same question! Did you ever get an answer?
a laser level is much faster?
I was thinking the same question. Then i thought using a laser level assumes the floor itself is level if you're placing the level on the floor. If you're placing the laser on a tripod with a leveling system, i think it would be more accurate. My dad would call this tool a "Plum Bomb". I'm not sure if it's a Hawaii thing. But it doesn't hurt to use both if you have access to them. I like using the Plum 'Bomb' myself, but I also use a laser to double check my work.
C M I’m purchasing a Dewalt green lazer that has plumb spots horizontal and vértice. Even if the floor isn’t level the laser level will always be correct because of the gyro technology. Although I too grew up with a bomb.
great stuff. i cringe a little watching the cats get hammered in w/o ear protection. suffering from tinnitus for decades now. although led zeppelin and deep purple are mostly to blame, the onset was when i was doing a demo in a basement.
Do you get the premium or the standard grade studs from Lowe's or Home Depot?
Premium usually...whichever are the straightest really, those are the one's to get.
Premium!
how about you don't have the space to build the wall on the floor then what? beginner here thank you
i would be pissed if that was my house, have my main drain line go right across a window. I know this has nothing to do with you, but seriously, what plumber thought that was ok? Or who thought putting the window there was ok? Thats crazy to me :) Again nothing to do with framers.
Some ppl don't have the space to build on the floor .
a faster way to plumb the walls is to use the level.
Ever hear of a laser?
If he says crow foot one more time🙄
What a crappy pipe! Lol
Pretty much can skip this whole episode
6 minutes to tell me that he snapped the line 9" from the wall because the pipe is in the way.
I feel bad for your wife if you think 6 minutes is long
@@geronimojr7534 I feel bad for your wife’s boyfriend if he has to put up with high school level jokes.
@@aaronacj wow what a comeback lmao 🤣
@@geronimojr7534 did it make him laugh also? Thanks.
Wouldn't a line laser be way faster/more accurate than a plumb bob?. I feel like its an outdated tool, although it does work if used properly. The margin for error with the user incorrectly transfering mark via plumb bob can be removed with a line laser. Line it up on your chalk line thats snapped on the ground, it transfers perfectly to ceiling