Great tutorial series so far, Eddie. I got a kick out of the little rant about framing on pre-placed ceiling and floor 2x4's as my father has been doing just that for basement frames for years and still manages to produce amazingly straight walls. I can just imagine an argument of both sides of the fence in construction doctrine of epic proportions. :,D
I have a 17.5” wall in my basement should I built a 16” wall and a little piece of 1.5” ? Or should I make two walls of 17.5” please any advice. Thanks.
Hey, Eddie l have a 17.5 feet wall in my basement just want to frame but I am not sure if I should do the a 16 feet wall and a little piece for the a 1.5 feet left or do two half walls of the 17.5feet please any recommendations. Thanks
@@diegogoplaypurp4987 I would do a 16' wall and add to it...it's the best way and the strongest & straightest way to frame it. Just make sure you buy straight 16' lumber for your top and bottom plates! ~Eddie
I'm not a professional carpenter...but a self taught one. I built my own cabin....but still watch videos like this and learn a few things here and there. Good videos and easy to follow.
I love the way you teach man....very clear and concise, talking slow enough where you don't have to rewind the video to hear what you said again. Great job, I'm doing my basement now and I'm loving your videos!
Thank you for taking time to video/documenting your work . Is really helps me a lot . many times I watched it whenever I have a questions while doing my wall . Thank you again for sharing your experiences to home owners like me .
Your videos and explanations are fantastic!! Very detailed and thorough. Any questions I had on - you answered. Much thanks to you for giving these instruction segments!!
I sure miss the green treated lumber. Just finished framing a basement and all they sell now at my lumber yard is the brown treated lumber. You can barely see the layout mark's on them. Your tips in your videos are awesome by the way! Thank you Awr construction!
I had to frame a basement today and your tips helped significantly. My only issue was that even though I pulled 4 1/2" off the foundation walls and shot a laser as well as used a plumb bob for my layout the top plate was so close to the foundation that the studs pertruded out 1/4" I made it work, but I learned that I should put a level on those foundation walls.
@@BasementFinishingMan i made it work but it was definitely more time consuming. Once again I thank you for your videos. I have been in the trades for 20 years and no one has ever explained the process of layout and building as well as you did. Much appreciated.
I don’t understand this first mark at 15 1/4. You measured it from the outside of the first stud. That would make on center distance in between the first and second stud 15 1/4. Shouldn’t it be 16 for all of them? Why’s the first one short???
An answer I saw while also trying to find out why: “Center to center of the first two studs will not be 16" but the sheet of drywall will not be going to the center of the first stud, it will be going to the edge of it/start of the wall. So from the start of the wall to the center of stud #2 will be 16". Then it's 16" OC from that point on. “ Hope that makes sense
Eddie, I have learned a great deal from your series and am using it to build my basement, starting with the first video. However, I would like to offer one piece of advice related to your editing. You should eliminate the strong background noise when you write an important message. Many people, me included, have difficulty in reading while listening to that heavy construction noise. Either eliminate the sound or reduce it to a trickle. That said, I have found other TH-cam building shows and some are pretty good, but yours is the best when it comes to detail. We non-professionals need detail. Thanks.
Appreciate your videos and this has given me the guts to try out building a room in my partially finished basement( air and return vents are completed, ceiling is finished and insulation on my walls). How do you install CATS when there a finished ceiling in my basement? My floor joists are running parallel to the framing wall, with the last floor joist about a foot and a half away from my concrete wall. I have a finished ceiling up on top, with nothing to secure the top plate on.. Any ideas on how to secure the top plate where there is no floor joists would be appreciated..
Thanks for all the info, its a great video and makes me really feel prepared. If I am making an interior wall off of the exterior wall, would I use the same principle of an inside corner and put a stud perpendicular in the middle of the frame?
I really appreciate the video. However, I'm not sure if I missed something. Shouldn't the length of the stud be 90 3/8 minus thickness of top/white bar?
Hi Eddie. Thanks so much for these helpful videos. I have watched all 6 framing videos a few times and have a question. You might have a video on this and I just haven’t found it but here is my situation. I am building two adjacent bedrooms and was wondering how I connect the wall that will divide the two rooms. Thanks in advance!
Hi Eddie, you are awesome! I have watched many of your videos in preparation for starting my basement project. We are now at the framing stage and we have an issue, maybe you could shed some light on. We have no choice in our plan but to put the doors for a bedroom and washroom right underneath the ibeam. The overall height is 82” and the beam is 5 3/4” wide. There is ductwork on either side just 1 1/2 higher than the lowest point of the beam. What is the best size door with jams that I should buy ( I also watched the door installing video you did ) and how should I connect the upper part of the jam at the ibeam? Help.... Marie How can I secure my
Hi Eddie, Great stuff here. Question; hanging board at inside corner of wall 1 & 2 seems to me that wall 2 board will be shifted over 1/2" to the left leaving only 1/4" of stud C/L (instead of the needed 3/4" C/L) available for remaining 4' wide boards on wall 2 as the 1st boards on wall 1 ate up 1/2" of the wall 2 available C/L spacing. Or perhaps do the board hangers see this shortage and trim 1/2" off their 1st wall 2 inside corner board to make it fit the stud 47 1/2 available stud layout?
Hi Eddie, these videos are fantastic! Great detail, I am using dricore subfloor then building my walls on top of that but using steel. Can I follow the same procedures you use here with steel? For example can i lay the bottom plate and still do the 3.5” overlap (if that is the size of my steel track) on wall 1 and do the same stud placement as your are demonstrating ? Thanks.
I do have the space to build a wall on the floor but not enough space to stand up . I have a bath tub drain that angles preventing me from pulling the top plate under the joists. I need to place a base plate n then nail a top plate seperatly. Can I still measure the studding by putting the top plate on top of the base plate n measure to the joist? In this case, do I still have to take an eighth off the measurement of the studs or cut each one to whatever they measure to.
Hi, great videos! I am building a wall where the floor is uneven, there is 9/16" difference from shortest to longest measurement for the stud. Should I cut them all to the shortest dimension and then shim at the top to make up the difference? The video said there can be up to 1/4" from top plate to the stud, I would be over this dimension unless I shim.
Hello Chris...Thanks for the views! The same ...16" o.c. You can also install wood blocking between the studs if you know exactly where your TV mount will be located. Eddie
i've watched all the 6 part series 4 times,,very awesome info,, what if i wanted to install a subfloor 1st then build on of the top dricore sublfoor, just the height would change, right?
@@BasementFinishingMan thanks for the response,,, if i use DMX Airflow (another type of subfloor)would you suggest to do the framing 1st then do the subfloor?
@@euci3207I would do all the sub-flooring 1st and then all walls if I had a bunch of interior walls included. Would make the sub-flooring go a lot faster than trying to build a bunch a smaller sub-floors in between the walls!
Greetings. I understand taking the lowest point on a wall and using that minus 1/8. What about the other walls? What if those are lower than the lowest point on the original wall? Are you screwed or do you just take the lowest point of all the walls and use that overall for every height? Thanks
This is my second time through the series...GREAT CONTENT!!! I do have two questions. 1.) I have a new build house (2 1/2 years old) in Ohio with great drainage so the basement is dry. Do I need to waterproof the interior walls or use a vapor barrier before framing? 2.) Wood studs have become way more expensive than metal studs. If i use metal studs, would I use the same Wall 1 stud orientation? Thank you!
My first wall I built I accidentally put the studs on the wrong side of my mark resulting in the first stud only being about 14” from the end stud. So dumb, I know! I continued the pattern (for better or worse) the rest of my way down the wall to have each stud be 16” OC. my question is, should I just leave it as-is or put another stud vertically next to my first one to make all of them be 16 apart?
Leave it go Mike! It will all work-out for you with drywall...you'll just have to cut to adjust your first drywall section out of the corner and then you'll be right back on-track with your 16" layout. Best! Eddie
Hi Eddie. After marking for the end nailer and adjacent 2x4, is it ok for the first stud to be at a different measurement than 15 1/4, in order to line up with the joists? I am planning on running some utilities through the top plate and down the studs, so I want to try to line the studs up with the joist bays as much as I can.
The layout is the layout! But...you can adjust a stud or two where you need special cercumstances for utility sake and it won't hurt a thing if it's just an inch or two in either layout direction. Eddie
Great video but I haven't found anything that will help me solve the problem I have. I need to frame out a wall where a small part of it is below grade so its concrete and it meets with wood framing. Would love to have straight walls but I cant.
Hi Eddie .great videos.I lived in Harrisburg,Pa.i have a unfinished basement with 2 concrete wall and 2 wall like this videos.if I hired a contractor for only walls and electricity.how much it will cost approximately??Thanks .
Hi Eddie! Can I use 2x4x8 instead of 16 footers? I have very long walls in the basement, but I have no way to get 16’ lengths down there. I’m just worried that I will run into issues doing 8’ sections at a time.
I would rather you didn't. You will be making a ton of very short walls and putting them all together...can't you slide those 16' 2" x 4"'s through the window and into the basement? Eddie
Your videos are great, thanks for all the good information. Quick question, you mention building on the floor is your best and only option. What do you recommend if you don’t have the floor space because of an existing pool table?
Hey Eddie, Killer videos ive been watching them all and think im gonna tackle my basement and build the walls " The right way " on the floor and lift up. My question is I just had french drains installed to make sure my moisture issues are a thing of the past. They told me "DO NOT" shoot nails into the floor since it would be in the new concrete and to use constructive adhesive like PL PREMIUM 8x. My question is do you think it would be fine to snap my line on the top and bottom like you do, Glue a pressure treated 2x4 down, Once set then build my wall accounting for the plate I glued down and then just screw it into that essentially just having a double plate at the bottom? Just looking for confirmation I think it will be good to go. Thanks and keep up the great videos for us DIY'rs. Ive never done a basement before but im handy ive built tons of speaker cabinets and basic wood-work over the years.
@@BasementFinishingMan Thank you sir! It probably has something to do with their warranty who knows. I appreciate the confirmation time to start building :).
How do I measured for the sqf of my basement to get frame.. Is it LxWxH of a wall or just the flooring size L XW let's say a room is 14x30 with 7ft walls whats my framing sqf
You might be able to change the file format (not resolution, file format) of your camera, which might fix your audio/video disconnect problem. Its actually youtubes player's fault, but you have to deal with it.
Hey Eddie, when should you build a floating wall? I have a concrete slab in my basement and was planning on floating walls to accommodate any movement. Is this necessary?
With a crow's foot the point at which the 2 lines meet is the unequivocal location of the mark. (With only a single line, which end of the line is the mark (since it won't be perfectly perpendicular?)
Instead of cutting the studs to match the height of the joist, shouldn't you just use the lowest point and then shim under the rest to make it all even?
Yes. That’s what he says to do. If you measured each spot and cut several different heights, you would end up with either a wavy header, or gaps between stud and header.
So, if there is no wall wrap, like on some of your walls, what do you do between concrete wall and stud wall? Would 1/2” XPS foam boards allow use of non-PT studs? Vapor barrier? Just paint with drylock and insulate stud bays with pink?
Kimberly Davis I got advise from county inspector - rules may vary, Either use pressure treated wood if in contact or leave 1” gap. I did dryloc on my walls just in case. Foam boards could be used but in my area, just 2x4 wall insulated with 1” gap was ok.
Eddie, would you still be able to frame the wall out for drywall, if you didn't do the layout part where you drew a line in the middle of the board, & marked x on the top for both plates in corner?.
Is what i'm referring to called a california corner?, & it's purpose is just so wall #2 can have a solid base to butt up to?. Sorry if im asking too many questions, appreciate your response
@@MrTrevorg18 forget about California corners… you do not need them in basements. You’re complicating the framing here… keep it simple and just do it like we frame it and you’ll be famous!
When laying out the bottom plate with the chalk line after measuring off the wall, do you have to do the 3-4-5 method to make sure it's 90? I have an interesting basement layout that has only two exterior cinder block walls that meet. And the shorter exterior wall can't be framed because it has stairs attached to it. The opposite wall that parallels the short wall is cinder block as well but has a pump room behind it. I guess I'm not sure where to start. Hope this makes sense.
Ok so I was asked to frame out a basement with cinder block walls. I duct taped pieces of aluminum foil on each wall to check for moisture and after a four days nothing. They want to insulate as well. Any suggestions on insulation whether it's foam board or the that white plastic insulation in your video. Also do I have to put plastic under the bottom plate in case of moisture. Thanks in advance your videos are awesome!!!
Great tutorial series so far, Eddie. I got a kick out of the little rant about framing on pre-placed ceiling and floor 2x4's as my father has been doing just that for basement frames for years and still manages to produce amazingly straight walls. I can just imagine an argument of both sides of the fence in construction doctrine of epic proportions. :,D
Thanks for watching...tell your dad I said at-a-boy!
You will get straight walls both ways...My way just faster and easier (in my opinion!) Lol!! Thanks for watching brother, tell dad I said hi! ~Eddie
I have a 17.5” wall in my basement should I built a 16” wall and a little piece of 1.5” ?
Or should I make two walls of 17.5” please any advice.
Thanks.
Hey, Eddie l have a 17.5 feet wall in my basement just want to frame but I am not sure if I should do the a 16 feet wall and a little piece for the a 1.5 feet left or do two half walls of the 17.5feet please any recommendations. Thanks
@@diegogoplaypurp4987 I would do a 16' wall and add to it...it's the best way and the strongest & straightest way to frame it. Just make sure you buy straight 16' lumber for your top and bottom plates! ~Eddie
I can't tell you how much I appreciate this series. It's given me the confidence to frame my basement, one section at a time!
Just rewatched again for another walk I’m building. Your videos are making my basement possible! Thank you so much!
I'm not a professional carpenter...but a self taught one. I built my own cabin....but still watch videos like this and learn a few things here and there. Good videos and easy to follow.
Thank you so much for this video series. I just finished framing my basement. I couldn’t have done it without your help. You are awesome!!
Glad the videos helped you Karl!
I love the way you teach man....very clear and concise, talking slow enough where you don't have to rewind the video to hear what you said again. Great job, I'm doing my basement now and I'm loving your videos!
Simply the best video on TH-cam for framing
I feel confident I can frame my basement 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for taking time to video/documenting your work . Is really helps me a lot . many times I watched it whenever I have a questions while doing my wall . Thank you again for sharing your experiences to home owners like me .
Great video. One question, why the first stud at 15 1/4? You mentioned in the video to explain that but there is no explanation. Thank you
Your videos and explanations are fantastic!! Very detailed and thorough. Any questions I had on - you answered. Much thanks to you for giving these instruction segments!!
I’m starting to Fram my basement and I didn’t know there is so much behind the walls. Thanh you for posting this video.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Great video series!! The six step course has helped me so much, thanks again!!!
That's is been very important to me. A great material and better than your material (video) is being your skill to explain Eddie.
Good!
Att. Trindade
Thank you Eddie , simply you are the best .
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
great Tutor, you have the patients of a Saint.
Thank you Jope!
I am learning so much from this series! Thank you SO MUCH for this knowledge! 👊😎
Thanks for watching.
This is the best I learn a lot whith him listen his videos thank so much for your time you are the best
I sure miss the green treated lumber. Just finished framing a basement and all they sell now at my lumber yard is the brown treated lumber. You can barely see the layout mark's on them. Your tips in your videos are awesome by the way! Thank you Awr construction!
I had to go to a lumber yard to get the borate green treated boards. The brown stuff is corrosive to nails.
very informative. I learned a lot ,thanks
I'm now watching your 6th video, I'm hooked. lol.. Great explanation!
Thanks for watching Traves! Good luck with your projects... ~Eddie
Hmmmm, why the first at 15-1/4 ? Seems with a 1/2 of drywall in corner looking for trouble since the 2-by is 1-1/2 wide
Great explanatory video... fun to watch!
Thanks for tuning in! Appreciate the views!
Eddie
Thank you so much for these videos! They are very helpful!
I had to frame a basement today and your tips helped significantly. My only issue was that even though I pulled 4 1/2" off the foundation walls and shot a laser as well as used a plumb bob for my layout the top plate was so close to the foundation that the studs pertruded out 1/4" I made it work, but I learned that I should put a level on those foundation walls.
That means your walls are leaning into the basement at the top 1.25"! Holy cow...that's that's a ton out of plumb brother! ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan i made it work but it was definitely more time consuming. Once again I thank you for your videos. I have been in the trades for 20 years and no one has ever explained the process of layout and building as well as you did. Much appreciated.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 Thank You Brother! Good luck with the rest of the project. ~Eddie
I don’t understand this first mark at 15 1/4. You measured it from the outside of the first stud. That would make on center distance in between the first and second stud 15 1/4. Shouldn’t it be 16 for all of them? Why’s the first one short???
An answer I saw while also trying to find out why:
“Center to center of the first two studs will not be 16" but the sheet of drywall will not be going to the center of the first stud, it will be going to the edge of it/start of the wall.
So from the start of the wall to the center of stud #2 will be 16". Then it's 16" OC from that point on. “
Hope that makes sense
Yes i had the same question. Thanks!
Eddie, I have learned a great deal from your series and am using it to build my basement, starting with the first video. However, I would like to offer one piece of advice related to your editing. You should eliminate the strong background noise when you write an important message. Many people, me included, have difficulty in reading while listening to that heavy construction noise. Either eliminate the sound or reduce it to a trickle. That said, I have found other TH-cam building shows and some are pretty good, but yours is the best when it comes to detail. We non-professionals need detail. Thanks.
Thank you for doing these! Great instructional videos! Hope you're making a little something from the ads.
Awesome videos! Thanks!
Appreciate your videos and this has given me the guts to try out building a room in my partially finished basement( air and return vents are completed, ceiling is finished and insulation on my walls). How do you install CATS when there a finished ceiling in my basement? My floor joists are running parallel to the framing wall, with the last floor joist about a foot and a half away from my concrete wall. I have a finished ceiling up on top, with nothing to secure the top plate on.. Any ideas on how to secure the top plate where there is no floor joists would be appreciated..
Thanks for all the info, its a great video and makes me really feel prepared. If I am making an interior wall off of the exterior wall, would I use the same principle of an inside corner and put a stud perpendicular in the middle of the frame?
I really appreciate the video. However, I'm not sure if I missed something. Shouldn't the length of the stud be 90 3/8 minus thickness of top/white bar?
Great videos!
Hi Eddie. Thanks so much for these helpful videos. I have watched all 6 framing videos a few times and have a question. You might have a video on this and I just haven’t found it but here is my situation. I am building two adjacent bedrooms and was wondering how I connect the wall that will divide the two rooms. Thanks in advance!
Do you fill the gap at the top with a shim prior to nailing? or do you leave the 1/4 in gap and shoot the nail?
Hi Eddie, you are awesome! I have watched many of your videos in preparation for starting my basement project. We are now at the framing stage and we have an issue, maybe you could shed some light on.
We have no choice in our plan but to put the doors for a bedroom and washroom right underneath the ibeam. The overall height is 82” and the beam is 5 3/4” wide.
There is ductwork on either side just 1 1/2 higher than the lowest point of the beam.
What is the best size door with jams that I should buy ( I also watched the door installing video you did ) and how should I connect the upper part of the jam at the ibeam?
Help....
Marie
How can I secure my
now i know why speed squares are 7 in long nice video
Eddie, any advice for a California corner for the inside corner?
I guess it's okay to use smaller plates if you can't get a 16 ft to the basement... Right? I have a tight corner and can only fit a 10 ft...
Slide it in through a window if you have any... ~Eddie
Hi Eddie, Great stuff here. Question; hanging board at inside corner of wall 1 & 2 seems to me that wall 2 board will be shifted over 1/2" to the left leaving only 1/4" of stud C/L (instead of the needed 3/4" C/L) available for remaining 4' wide boards on wall 2 as the 1st boards on wall 1 ate up 1/2" of the wall 2 available C/L spacing. Or perhaps do the board hangers see this shortage and trim 1/2" off their 1st wall 2 inside corner board to make it fit the stud 47 1/2 available stud layout?
Hi Eddie, these videos are fantastic! Great detail, I am using dricore subfloor then building my walls on top of that but using steel. Can I follow the same procedures you use here with steel? For example can i lay the bottom plate and still do the 3.5” overlap (if that is the size of my steel track) on wall 1 and do the same stud placement as your are demonstrating ? Thanks.
I do have the space to build a wall on the floor but not enough space to stand up . I have a bath tub drain that angles preventing me from pulling the top plate under the joists. I need to place a base plate n then nail a top plate seperatly. Can I still measure the studding by putting the top plate on top of the base plate n measure to the joist? In this case, do I still have to take an eighth off the measurement of the studs or cut each one to whatever they measure to.
Hi, great videos! I am building a wall where the floor is uneven, there is 9/16" difference from shortest to longest measurement for the stud. Should I cut them all to the shortest dimension and then shim at the top to make up the difference? The video said there can be up to 1/4" from top plate to the stud, I would be over this dimension unless I shim.
Now, if you know that one one particular wall your going to mount a large TV on the wall, what is the recommended measurement for your studs?
Hello Chris...Thanks for the views! The same ...16" o.c. You can also install wood blocking between the studs if you know exactly where your TV mount will be located.
Eddie
i've watched all the 6 part series 4 times,,very awesome info,, what if i wanted to install a subfloor 1st then build on of the top dricore sublfoor, just the height would change, right?
That's correct Eug. Everything else would pretty much be exactly the same mechanically speaking. Thanks for watching brother!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan thanks for the response,,, if i use DMX Airflow (another type of subfloor)would you suggest to do the framing 1st then do the subfloor?
@@euci3207I would do all the sub-flooring 1st and then all walls if I had a bunch of interior walls included. Would make the sub-flooring go a lot faster than trying to build a bunch a smaller sub-floors in between the walls!
Eddie gave the saw guy the “death stare” @ 28:00. Yikes 😳
Greetings. I understand taking the lowest point on a wall and using that minus 1/8. What about the other walls? What if those are lower than the lowest point on the original wall? Are you screwed or do you just take the lowest point of all the walls and use that overall for every height? Thanks
Each new wall you build will be done the exact same way regardless of of what length the studs were in previous walls. ~Eddie
This is my second time through the series...GREAT CONTENT!!! I do have two questions.
1.) I have a new build house (2 1/2 years old) in Ohio with great drainage so the basement is dry. Do I need to waterproof the interior walls or use a vapor barrier before framing?
2.) Wood studs have become way more expensive than metal studs. If i use metal studs, would I use the same Wall 1 stud orientation?
Thank you!
My first wall I built I accidentally put the studs on the wrong side of my mark resulting in the first stud only being about 14” from the end stud. So dumb, I know! I continued the pattern (for better or worse) the rest of my way down the wall to have each stud be 16” OC. my question is, should I just leave it as-is or put another stud vertically next to my first one to make all of them be 16 apart?
Leave it go Mike! It will all work-out for you with drywall...you'll just have to cut to adjust your first drywall section out of the corner and then you'll be right back on-track with your 16" layout. Best! Eddie
Hi Eddie. After marking for the end nailer and adjacent 2x4, is it ok for the first stud to be at a different measurement than 15 1/4, in order to line up with the joists? I am planning on running some utilities through the top plate and down the studs, so I want to try to line the studs up with the joist bays as much as I can.
The layout is the layout! But...you can adjust a stud or two where you need special cercumstances for utility sake and it won't hurt a thing if it's just an inch or two in either layout direction.
Eddie
Great video but I haven't found anything that will help me solve the problem I have. I need to frame out a wall where a small part of it is below grade so its concrete and it meets with wood framing. Would love to have straight walls but I cant.
I am using foam board.
Do I frame my wall 4.5 inches from the concrete wall or 6 inches or place next to the foam board ?
If you only have one wall with plumbing on it, do you have to have your other three walls the same measurement as the plumbing wall?
Hi Eddie .great videos.I lived in Harrisburg,Pa.i have a unfinished basement with 2 concrete wall and 2 wall like this videos.if I hired a contractor for only walls and electricity.how much it will cost approximately??Thanks .
Hi Eddie!
Can I use 2x4x8 instead of 16 footers? I have very long walls in the basement, but I have no way to get 16’ lengths down there. I’m just worried that I will run into issues doing 8’ sections at a time.
I would rather you didn't. You will be making a ton of very short walls and putting them all together...can't you slide those 16' 2" x 4"'s through the window and into the basement?
Eddie
@6:20 ....are you saying my basement won't have the same length walls?
Now I'm really confused.
;)
Your videos are great, thanks for all the good information. Quick question, you mention building on the floor is your best and only option. What do you recommend if you don’t have the floor space because of an existing pool table?
Excellent video for beginners to learn, how about a pro/productions tips video for the professional to hone their skills?
Do you have to put plastic behind walls if you have them sealed
Hey Eddie, Killer videos ive been watching them all and think im gonna tackle my basement and build the walls " The right way " on the floor and lift up. My question is I just had french drains installed to make sure my moisture issues are a thing of the past. They told me "DO NOT" shoot nails into the floor since it would be in the new concrete and to use constructive adhesive like PL PREMIUM 8x. My question is do you think it would be fine to snap my line on the top and bottom like you do, Glue a pressure treated 2x4 down, Once set then build my wall accounting for the plate I glued down and then just screw it into that essentially just having a double plate at the bottom? Just looking for confirmation I think it will be good to go. Thanks and keep up the great videos for us DIY'rs. Ive never done a basement before but im handy ive built tons of speaker cabinets and basic wood-work over the years.
That should work just fine, but If that concrete is more than 2 weeks old then you can shoot into it with your fasteners...won't hurt a thing!
Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Thank you sir! It probably has something to do with their warranty who knows. I appreciate the confirmation time to start building :).
I thought with old (10+ year) slab, ramset not recommended? Drill and use tapcon (blue) ?
How do I measured for the sqf of my basement to get frame.. Is it LxWxH of a wall or just the flooring size L XW let's say a room is 14x30 with 7ft walls whats my framing sqf
good explanations
Lol, love the captions.
Thanks for watching!
what about fire blocking?
If the base plate isn't exactly level, do you shim or not?
Ty for tuto, just me or sound is off sync
Apologize for the audio delay in the video...but thank you for watching all the same.
Eddie
You might be able to change the file format (not resolution, file format) of your camera, which might fix your audio/video disconnect problem. Its actually youtubes player's fault, but you have to deal with it.
Yeah I know...Sorry about the audio delay in video...Thanks for watching all the same.
Eddie
Hey Eddie, when should you build a floating wall? I have a concrete slab in my basement and was planning on floating walls to accommodate any movement. Is this necessary?
Not unless your city requires floating wall as code Wade. They are not required in PA at all.
What is the advantage of marking with a crows foot instead of just a line or single mark?
With a crow's foot the point at which the 2 lines meet is the unequivocal location of the mark. (With only a single line, which end of the line is the mark (since it won't be perfectly perpendicular?)
Instead of cutting the studs to match the height of the joist, shouldn't you just use the lowest point and then shim under the rest to make it all even?
Yes. That’s what he says to do. If you measured each spot and cut several different heights, you would end up with either a wavy header, or gaps between stud and header.
@@charleswalker6109 really? What I understood from his video was that you should just cut the different length studs. Maybe I need to rewatch.
Can you use 2x3 instead of 2x4?
Bad Idea!
So, if there is no wall wrap, like on some of your walls, what do you do between concrete wall and stud wall? Would 1/2” XPS foam boards allow use of non-PT studs? Vapor barrier? Just paint with drylock and insulate stud bays with pink?
I have the exact same question!
Kimberly Davis I got advise from county inspector - rules may vary, Either use pressure treated wood if in contact or leave 1” gap. I did dryloc on my walls just in case. Foam boards could be used but in my area, just 2x4 wall insulated with 1” gap was ok.
Allen Jensen thanks for the reply!
I am 6:30 in and all I've heard is that we wanna go 3.5" past the lines on both sides. Maybe edit the videos a bit in the future?
Maybe you should start a basement finishing channel and edit your own videos…yeah that’s going to happen…Lol
man love the videos but sink the audio correctly please
Eddie, would you still be able to frame the wall out for drywall, if you didn't do the layout part where you drew a line in the middle of the board, & marked x on the top for both plates in corner?.
Yes you would only need one stud on the end instead of two.
Is what i'm referring to called a california corner?, & it's purpose is just so wall #2 can have a solid base to butt up to?. Sorry if im asking too many questions, appreciate your response
@@MrTrevorg18 forget about California corners… you do not need them in basements. You’re complicating the framing here… keep it simple and just do it like we frame it and you’ll be famous!
@@BasementFinishingMan Sounds good boss!. I'm going to check out your video on designing the basement next.
When laying out the bottom plate with the chalk line after measuring off the wall, do you have to do the 3-4-5 method to make sure it's 90? I have an interesting basement layout that has only two exterior cinder block walls that meet. And the shorter exterior wall can't be framed because it has stairs attached to it. The opposite wall that parallels the short wall is cinder block as well but has a pump room behind it. I guess I'm not sure where to start. Hope this makes sense.
Ok so I was asked to frame out a basement with cinder block walls. I duct taped pieces of aluminum foil on each wall to check for moisture and after a four days nothing. They want to insulate as well. Any suggestions on insulation whether it's foam board or the that white plastic insulation in your video. Also do I have to put plastic under the bottom plate in case of moisture. Thanks in advance your videos are awesome!!!