Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
And your privilege is glaring. Come on not everyone can afford for mtb Deore XT, or even 105, for Road. 10 year old Dura ace is still $1500. In some places you get what’s available second hand. It’s still beautiful, you have your opinion and I have mine. Neither is fact. This guy did a great job with what he could. RS- Magaling ang iyong ginawa
It depends on client requests at the end of the day . That is how I run my repair and projects business . Transposing frames raises questions if the mountain bike was a 26'er .
@@jinnij.caimanThis bike might not be a genuine s-works at the first place, cuz there was never such a factory build at all times. And I don't think anyone will buy a separate superbike frameset and put commuter grouper on it. The most probable situation could be that this super bike was stolen and resold as a commuter bike, and its second "owner" had no idea how much it was worth, then replaced its groupset with a real commuter one.
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency. The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied. Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame. I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
@@ohmingfeng9351 He has a point, even with a rubber mallet bringing the cups out on an angle will flare and distort the ends of the head tube. the proper tool for removal isn’t expensive. All said it is a nice build and lots of good work.
@@carltorres1006 The tool you want is a headset cup extractor. It has one end to hit and the other end is split into tongues that spring outwards. It can pass through the opposing cup and let’s you drive the cup out square
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
Gravel bike? Edit: Actually I gave it a little more thought, without the suspension de BB would lower a bit and make the head tube angle steeper, maybe not a road race bike geometry, but certainly not a MTB either.
@@hsanper If you like it and ride it - it’s a great bike for sure. There’s nothing wrong with building unusual custom setups, it just have a MTB geometry, that was my point.
Great conversion and excellent painting skills utilizing spray cans. Since you had the frame down to bare metal, did you consider smoothing out the welding points?
@@janeblogs324 purely aesthetics, if the welds were done properly it won't comprise the structural of functional integrity of the frame. Just Smoot out the welding overlaps with a file and Dremel.then sand and paint.
@@robertlangland3351 welds are only strong because they are convex and shaped like a sphere in tension. All the specialized with ground welds have cracked, they no longer sell any frames with undercut welds
@@janeblogs324 I completely understand that risk. Especially if the welds are not fused completely. I"ve cleaned up a lot of welds in my many years. It generally is ok to grind down aesthetically.. Generally we used to grind down to find the flaws or make sure we had no pockets or cracks to clean up. My experience has been that if the weld is done well, grinding for appearance did not significantly affect structural strengt; however if you ground the fillet out you weaken the weld. I can't speak to the quality of the welds on the Specialized bikes. I rode and raced Cannondales in the early nineties. My biggest challenge with their aluminum frame was bottom bracket fatigue from oxidation. All my Cannondale frames had the joint welds smoothed out.
@@robertlangland3351 all welds must be convex or they fatigue. Think of the weld as an expanding sphere when hot and it contracts when cooled. Its like hundreds of ropes going from the center to the edge, all pulling back to the center. If you bring away the top half or the top 2/3 like bike manufacturers were then all those ropes are gone. Its OK to grind welds on a table or something, but round tubes that see vibration and load will fatigue. Seriously just google broken bicycle frame welds. Standard welds crack the along the tube 5mm from the weld because the weld is stronger than the tube. Ground welds crack along the middle of the weld
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting. I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays. The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike. I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
You know, the funniest things about these restoration videos is either its not really broken its just hardened mud or those are 2 different bikes because the chain stay is higher than the previous one it turned from External to Internal and no you cant simply drill a hole into a frame and make it into an internal, and how a frame using a 26” suddenly switched to 700c-25”
It's not an m5 s-works, but it is the same frame. Internal works with just holes if you run outer cable all the way through. And 700c will fit in the majority of 26" frames no problem. All that's needed is a brake calliper with a suitable drop. The spray job is pretty tidy for rattle cans. Nice job really. Would I ride it, no. Do I think it was worth the effort, not really. But if he's happy with the end result, then kudos to him.
I dont think you understand nor have you done a restoration because 1. External > Internal isnt as easy as cake you have to insert whats called a routing and it has to be precise these cannot be done by just anybody and takes either the manufacturing themselves or top of the line mechanics because its the same how you cant just turn a rim frame to a post mount disc frame 2.the routing holes are precisely placed and done no signs of it being cut, damaged, nor touched and it wasnt showed it suddenly appeared as the video went on 3. Rust isnt a magical piece of dirt you can remove its decayed metal the one used in the video is WD-40 and WD-40 doesnt take it off like poof it eats the metal and the frame is untouched (rust takes over 37% of the frame in the video and the rust fails to look natural) 4. Damage in the video he does sever changes and vigorous tactics such as hammering it down to remove the headset in the video it looks perfectly fine but in reality it should been dented heavily or cracked seeing that the M5 is an old and thin bicycle 5. Accept reality 97% of restoration videos are cap and thats a fact each and every one of these videos are cap and only a small amount of 3% remains to be real restoring
@Eobard_Thawne. This is exciting, where to start. I understand fairly well, having spent 20 years as a professional cycle mechanic, shop manager, and ultimately training mechanics for a large chain of retailers. As I said previously; internal cable routing can be achieved easily, if not correctly, by simply drilling holes and running outer cable for the full run. Many steel frames in the 80s and 90s achieved internal brake cable routing this way. If the old cable is pulled out without a follower it was a proper pain threading a new one through. What are you wittering on about rust for? The frame shown is an aluminiun alloy frame, with no apparent signs of any corrosion. Aluminium corrodes, steel rusts. His method of removing the headset cups is indeed wildly incorrect, or "sever changes and vigorous" ??? as you put it. But given a modicum of skill or hand eye coordination, there is no reason it should leave the frame "dented and cracked". The M5 tubeset was thin, in places. The headtube was, by necessity, one of the thickest walled tubes on the frame. On a par with the bottom bracket shell at close to 4mm thick. I do not need to accept that 97% of these videos are "cap" (????). Apparently, you know this to be a "fact". Like the old, but very true joke about how, "up to 97% of all statistics are made up on the spot". I am sorry, but you are mostly talking out of your arse about a subject you know little about. "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing"
@@theflow5269 oh boy, how fascinating now i will admit i made a bit of mistakes in my reply but im telling you right now that a frame that thin made of steel probably and it wont go away without a dent from the actions showed in the video and how the chain stay and seat stay got higher with the top tube and bottom bracket having a change and yes im not certain with 97% but it is true that most restorations are staged
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
It wasn't shown how the cables were passed through the frame for the rear gears. The older frame had holders which these were removed for the newer version and some holes at an angle had to be drilled into the frame which aren't straight forward to do, but weren't shown in the video. At 16:36 old version and then 17:32 and 17:38 for the newer version.
@@SimonGrech I don’t know exactly because once he starts to strip the paint off the frame. The cable guides on the top tube aren’t there anymore. Once the paint is fully stripped off that is when you see the holes for the internal cable routing. Unless he did this off camera and forgot to document the process. Then that’s awesome he was able to do that but if he swapped frames then that’s deceiving. As you mentioned being able to drill a hole at angle isn’t an easy task. Also guiding the cable from one end to the other end without installing internal tubing… It’s doable but requires skill and custom fabrication.
The volume of a 26" MTB tire is much bigger than the road ones, so the total diameter of the wheel is not that far from a 700c. Also the chain stay is fairly long on MTBs, sometimes they can acomodate bigger wheel sizes, but it's possible to see in the video that the new back wheel is a little closer to the seat tube. Edit: Went look for some numbers, wheel size is rim+tire. So 700c wheels are (no surprise here) 700 mm or 27,56", so in a 26" bike (660 mm) you only need your frame to clear the extra diameter divided by 2, so 20 mm (0,79").
The only thing you cannot fix is the high BB height. So you have to either get off the saddle or really stretch that foot out when stopped. OK for off roading but still an issue for riding on street which is where most people use all bikes.
![[SUB] JUNK BIKE RESTORATION - Shimano Claris Road Bicycle](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t8XBY7bsQGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably one of the best frame paintign videos on here - well done !
Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Bro the result is stunning, don't listen to the people critics. I really enjoyed watching the video, hope that u will do others like this one
26" to 700 28 wheel. Nice restoration
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
Beautiful transformation on that bicycle 😊
Ang galing, may idea na ako sa gagawin ko sa mtb frame ko
That’s a sick spray can paint job. Looks professional. Great edit and hard work on the restoration paid off nicely
Thanks 👍 glad you enjoyed it
Grande Manolo grande, un verdadero placer poder acompañarte en estas aventuras, gracias
에스웍에 투어니 변속기 생각도 못했다 ㅎㅎ 자전거 색깔은 죽여주네요
I have some Shimano RSX components from 1997 , new old stock made in Japan . These perform very well for the money .
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
Nice modification!
Great job men 👍. Craftmanship. This road bike deserves ultegra configuration.
Yeah but soon if i have an extra money then i will upgrade it, tnx
Man, you're really good at that rattlecan spray-paint job!
This guy deserves more subs 😅😅
Amazing build!
Really cool, congratulations on a wicked restoration!
paint job is tooop notch, you can upgrade components later if you feel like to
It always turns out great with roosters in the background...
It was beautiful… and then you went and put tourney on it.
Some people can't afford the better stuff... So don't judge
@@MyMegaJOKER2it's definitely not a real s works
And your privilege is glaring. Come on not everyone can afford for mtb Deore XT, or even 105, for Road. 10 year old Dura ace is still $1500. In some places you get what’s available second hand. It’s still beautiful, you have your opinion and I have mine. Neither is fact. This guy did a great job with what he could. RS- Magaling ang iyong ginawa
It depends on client requests at the end of the day . That is how I run my repair and projects business . Transposing frames raises questions if the mountain bike was a 26'er .
@@jinnij.caimanThis bike might not be a genuine s-works at the first place, cuz there was never such a factory build at all times. And I don't think anyone will buy a separate superbike frameset and put commuter grouper on it. The most probable situation could be that this super bike was stolen and resold as a commuter bike, and its second "owner" had no idea how much it was worth, then replaced its groupset with a real commuter one.
I have a 2006 m5, you have inspired me.
I like and am grateful to see you cleaning the bicycle v brake adapter, it looks easy and the results are smooth
Die Geometrie wirkt etwas merkwürdig weil es eigentlich ein Mountainbike Rahmen ist, aber schick ist es trotzdem.
To bude radosti pro malého cyklistu 👌, moc pěkná práce.
Skvělý počin.
bro created a new definition for beauty
looks like new, great work!
Congratulations, now it is absolutely amazing again 👏👏👏
Wah suhu ini mah..
Bukan kaleng2 lagi👍👍
It looks like a random frame with S-works stickers not an original S-works.
By the Sun fade on them i doubt
Wrong. Google 90s specialized -Sworks m5 hardtail.
Superb. An amazing refurbishment. I like your taste in colours too. Well done!
This is literally therapeutic
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency.
The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied.
Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
Holy shit you're right! Will be like riding an elastic band 😂
Excelente vídeo parabéns. Qual intervalo de demãos de tinta? E você sabe dizer a medida da rosca da gancheira do câmbio traseiro?
2 different frames. The first one has cables externally, and the other frame has internal cable routing
5:43 Switch of frame?
@rejuan99 it's a different frame. The old one has external cables rputing. "Finished one has internal cable routing.
@@jmoyet that's what I said.
@@jmoyethe drilled those holes himself, he converted it
@@rejuan995:45 if u stop the video , u can see new drilled holes and also the marks on top of the bar where he cut the old cable holders off
wow you swaped the frame to an internal one amazing😮😮
It's called a drill.
Why did you change the hubs? Shimano XT is great.
He painted them 😁 didnt change
He changed the wheels because they are a different rim size
What product was the one you used to get rid of the old paint?
Es removedor de pintura Hermano 🙋🏻
Paint remover👌
Well done, a unique bike no doubt, albeit there's nothing "S-Works" about it 😅
Wrong. Just Google 90s Specialized S-Works M5 hardtail. I have a similar model. Yes it’s real.
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Yeah, really early MTBs would work much better for this!
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
My right index finger started hurting just watching him do all that spray painting. 😂
-Мама, я хочу S-WORKS!
-Но у нас есть дома S-WORKS не хуже
S-WORKS дома:
Nice job, well done!
Thanks for the video this is actually what im founding
Lovely, except for that negative rise stem on top of all those spacers.
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame.
I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
I do small holes for internal cable and i removed the external cable holders, but I didn’t included in the video
Please don’t EVER remove a headset like that… you will bend the head tube or widen it and future headsets won’t fit
Its a rubber mallet
@@ohmingfeng9351 He has a point, even with a rubber mallet bringing the cups out on an angle will flare and distort the ends of the head tube. the proper tool for removal isn’t expensive. All said it is a nice build and lots of good work.
When you little to no access or funds for tools, it'll work.
3rd world problems...
I must have used a rod and then that rubber mallet
@@carltorres1006 The tool you want is a headset cup extractor. It has one end to hit and the other end is split into tongues that spring outwards. It can pass through the opposing cup and let’s you drive the cup out square
Te quedó brutal compa
My favorite part is how you turned grey walls into the grass and trees
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
3:15
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
Bro he Cut and drilled the holes🤦♂️
The guy who had put a spacer under that stem on the initial setup is a criminal
It's Beatiful But the Amount of Hardwork and the Money can get you a better Roadbike
For real... Why using such a good frame with that cheap groupset? Better 9 or 10 Speed sensah or ltwoo would do the job.
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
Yes i convert it into Roadbike, former 26er to 700ctires
good job man
An S-works with Tourney group set? I guess the standards were low back then.
and alloy frame? it's an old specialized MTT cameo with s-works paint or sticker
4:49 specialized don't use vinyl stickers
Perpact~! But... tourney...??
Bike still has the MTB geometry with little BB drop and high trail.
Gravel bike?
Edit: Actually I gave it a little more thought, without the suspension de BB would lower a bit and make the head tube angle steeper, maybe not a road race bike geometry, but certainly not a MTB either.
@@hsanper
If you like it and ride it - it’s a great bike for sure.
There’s nothing wrong with building unusual custom setups, it just have a MTB geometry, that was my point.
@@RomanArzumanyan 100%... it was collecting dust and now is a usable bike.
Great conversion and excellent painting skills utilizing spray cans. Since you had the frame down to bare metal, did you consider smoothing out the welding points?
To weaken it? For what reason?
@@janeblogs324 purely aesthetics, if the welds were done properly it won't comprise the structural of functional integrity of the frame. Just Smoot out the welding overlaps with a file and Dremel.then sand and paint.
@@robertlangland3351 welds are only strong because they are convex and shaped like a sphere in tension. All the specialized with ground welds have cracked, they no longer sell any frames with undercut welds
@@janeblogs324 I completely understand that risk. Especially if the welds are not fused completely. I"ve cleaned up a lot of welds in my many years. It generally is ok to grind down aesthetically.. Generally we used to grind down to find the flaws or make sure we had no pockets or cracks to clean up. My experience has been that if the weld is done well, grinding for appearance did not significantly affect structural strengt; however if you ground the fillet out you weaken the weld. I can't speak to the quality of the welds on the Specialized bikes. I rode and raced Cannondales in the early nineties. My biggest challenge with their aluminum frame was bottom bracket fatigue from oxidation. All my Cannondale frames had the joint welds smoothed out.
@@robertlangland3351 all welds must be convex or they fatigue. Think of the weld as an expanding sphere when hot and it contracts when cooled. Its like hundreds of ropes going from the center to the edge, all pulling back to the center. If you bring away the top half or the top 2/3 like bike manufacturers were then all those ropes are gone.
Its OK to grind welds on a table or something, but round tubes that see vibration and load will fatigue. Seriously just google broken bicycle frame welds. Standard welds crack the along the tube 5mm from the weld because the weld is stronger than the tube. Ground welds crack along the middle of the weld
I suggest you change the stem with the short one.
Nicely done~
Very beautiful result. What a lucky bike!
Many thanks!
Very few videos about the bike after restoration. I would like to see more shots and videos of the updated bike!!!
More to come!
Amazing transformation!
where did you bought the s-works frame sticker?
I bought it into online shopping sir
What did you use to make the paint pop off so easily?
Strip sol
So nice ! Bravo for this ! Just one question, the fork is a 1" or a 1"1/8 ?
fork is 1"1/8
you are an artist! chapeux
You did well, bro! 🎉
Show de bola ⚽️ parabéns Deus te abençoe vc e toda sua família.
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting.
I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays.
The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike.
I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
That is gorgeous!!
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
He used stripsol to remove the paint
@@yuki....Thanks. It's rather difficult I could find & buy that Stripsol in my country, or Amazon could send it free of taxes.
so cool. like a tarmac SL7 color😁
Glad you like it!
эти ваши видео, как медитация. Очень удобно под них засыпать =)
Very impressive
Not a real S Works frame but a well done job .
Amazing work. Well done.
Ano po brand and number ng red spray na gamit mo sir
This is some nice paint job. I wish you could provide me with a paint job like this. :D
Roosters, dogs, bikes 😊
You know, the funniest things about these restoration videos is either its not really broken its just hardened mud or those are 2 different bikes because the chain stay is higher than the previous one it turned from External to Internal and no you cant simply drill a hole into a frame and make it into an internal, and how a frame using a 26” suddenly switched to 700c-25”
It's not an m5 s-works, but it is the same frame. Internal works with just holes if you run outer cable all the way through. And 700c will fit in the majority of 26" frames no problem. All that's needed is a brake calliper with a suitable drop. The spray job is pretty tidy for rattle cans. Nice job really. Would I ride it, no. Do I think it was worth the effort, not really. But if he's happy with the end result, then kudos to him.
I dont think you understand nor have you done a restoration because
1. External > Internal isnt as easy as cake you have to insert whats called a routing and it has to be precise these cannot be done by just anybody and takes either the manufacturing themselves or top of the line mechanics because its the same how you cant just turn a rim frame to a post mount disc frame
2.the routing holes are precisely placed and done no signs of it being cut, damaged, nor touched and it wasnt showed it suddenly appeared as the video went on
3. Rust isnt a magical piece of dirt you can remove its decayed metal the one used in the video is WD-40 and WD-40 doesnt take it off like poof it eats the metal and the frame is untouched (rust takes over 37% of the frame in the video and the rust fails to look natural)
4. Damage in the video he does sever changes and vigorous tactics such as hammering it down to remove the headset in the video it looks perfectly fine but in reality it should been dented heavily or cracked seeing that the M5 is an old and thin bicycle
5. Accept reality 97% of restoration videos are cap and thats a fact each and every one of these videos are cap and only a small amount of 3% remains to be real restoring
@Eobard_Thawne.
This is exciting, where to start.
I understand fairly well, having spent 20 years as a professional cycle mechanic, shop manager, and ultimately training mechanics for a large chain of retailers.
As I said previously; internal cable routing can be achieved easily, if not correctly, by simply drilling holes and running outer cable for the full run. Many steel frames in the 80s and 90s achieved internal brake cable routing this way. If the old cable is pulled out without a follower it was a proper pain threading a new one through.
What are you wittering on about rust for? The frame shown is an aluminiun alloy frame, with no apparent signs of any corrosion. Aluminium corrodes, steel rusts.
His method of removing the headset cups is indeed wildly incorrect, or "sever changes and vigorous" ??? as you put it. But given a modicum of skill or hand eye coordination, there is no reason it should leave the frame "dented and cracked". The M5 tubeset was thin, in places. The headtube was, by necessity, one of the thickest walled tubes on the frame. On a par with the bottom bracket shell at close to 4mm thick.
I do not need to accept that 97% of these videos are "cap" (????). Apparently, you know this to be a "fact". Like the old, but very true joke about how, "up to 97% of all statistics are made up on the spot".
I am sorry, but you are mostly talking out of your arse about a subject you know little about. "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing"
@@theflow5269 I second this
@@theflow5269 oh boy, how fascinating now i will admit i made a bit of mistakes in my reply but im telling you right now that a frame that thin made of steel probably and it wont go away without a dent from the actions showed in the video and how the chain stay and seat stay got higher with the top tube and bottom bracket having a change and yes im not certain with 97% but it is true that most restorations are staged
I've seen some of his mistake 😁 but totally great ideas almost perfect..
Well done. cable routing changed, brake holes disappeared. The
bike became a different one ...
Beautiful work!
Awesome work on convering and restoring the frame!
Thank you very much!
I would have at least kept the XT hubs.
They were a great race hub back in the day.
How much money did you spend on this, i want to try it😊
Buen video. Pero ese no es el marco original
my guess: at least 500 euro in parts and stuff
Where did you buy the stickers?
nice job...except the pedals which are a nightmare
Awesome work!
Living in the city, the sound of a rooster brings back memories
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
It wasn't shown how the cables were passed through the frame for the rear gears. The older frame had holders which these were removed for the newer version and some holes at an angle had to be drilled into the frame which aren't straight forward to do, but weren't shown in the video. At 16:36 old version and then 17:32 and 17:38 for the newer version.
Weren’t shown because it’s not the same frame as the before and after. One has external routing while the other has internal routing.
@@JDP8888 then what conversion was it? Fork, handle, seat, wheels are all different... Add the frame too and it's a totally different bike
@@SimonGrech I don’t know exactly because once he starts to strip the paint off the frame. The cable guides on the top tube aren’t there anymore. Once the paint is fully stripped off that is when you see the holes for the internal cable routing. Unless he did this off camera and forgot to document the process. Then that’s awesome he was able to do that but if he swapped frames then that’s deceiving.
As you mentioned being able to drill a hole at angle isn’t an easy task. Also guiding the cable from one end to the other end without installing internal tubing…
It’s doable but requires skill and custom fabrication.
it was 26" wheels and in the end it was 700c.....how ?
Magic🤣🤣🤣
The volume of a 26" MTB tire is much bigger than the road ones, so the total diameter of the wheel is not that far from a 700c. Also the chain stay is fairly long on MTBs, sometimes they can acomodate bigger wheel sizes, but it's possible to see in the video that the new back wheel is a little closer to the seat tube.
Edit: Went look for some numbers, wheel size is rim+tire. So 700c wheels are (no surprise here) 700 mm or 27,56", so in a 26" bike (660 mm) you only need your frame to clear the extra diameter divided by 2, so 20 mm (0,79").
The 700c rim can fitted into 26er frame
I checked today@@rgsbikelife984
Brilliant work....
Mantap om..
Kreatif bgt
The only thing you cannot fix is the high BB height. So you have to either get off the saddle or really stretch that foot out when stopped. OK for off roading but still an issue for riding on street which is where most people use all bikes.
So satisfying to watch😊
nice prank for that s-works