I really appreciate you taking the time to make this series it's been very helpful! I understand the frustration on explaining how everything works together I go through it daily with transmission and torque converter I love helping people understand how it all works and it can be frustrating at times but I wouldn't have it any other way!
Man I love your teaching skills and humilty. 38:15 to 38:40 was the neeedle in the hay stack I was looking for in the last couple days . Thank you Sir. I have a 2011 2ss Camaro that gets alot of attention at the gas station and any parking lot or sometimes a red light . In saying that I have had family and friends draw me to the track in it for some friendly grudge racing , moslty lol . I spent money on hp and knew in my knower I shoulda started with the foundation [suspension}, but I traded that for the rush of power and a thumbs up here and there. But now my 3k dollar wheels and tires have been some what compomised after installing metal cradle bushings , rear trailing trailing arms ,rear toe rods ....the toe rods mentioned are non adjustable and I think there in lies the problem that ruined the inner rear portion of the rear tires in a very short time . back right tire was from inner to middle and outer width measurement a depth of 1/32 -3/32- 5/32 fronts are still 9/32 across the board being pretty new . up front I have issues as well , broken front sway bar link on the left drivers side , ...sway bar link is bent on the right passengers and a bad left front stut . car pulls to the left on a dig and now I know why . this damage is recent . could a busted motor mount cause the damage up front ? I know the back has to be in the toe for the rear tire damage . sheesh lol ! Bless you and your dad bro!
Adding a front ride height sensor is CRITICAL in analyzing & maximizing 60' performance. It's one of the most important sensors you can put on your car combined with front shock/strut travel sensors. What he said about outbound travel time is key.
Kevin - thanks for the assist on my Monza. I used the "Square Chassis" video information and feel confident that I have the rear squared in the car now. It was out of whack a lot more than I would have thought having used a triangulation method before. People do what Kevin says - and don't go off your front spindles to set the rear.
Thanks for the info, as I thought the qa1's in the front of my pickup are to loose and I need to tighten the a bit. Don't think it's gonna help my V6 when it runs out of power 6 feet out hahaha.
Thanks what about a c3 vette. I was bending the rear spring so I put a 425lb rear spring & I removed 170lbs out of the nose and was just about to extend the shocks 2" for more travel.
Wow thank you your expertise and knowledge is really helping me see the whole picture in building a fast street car. I'm building up a 74 camaro 454 th350 10 boot
David vonAnderseck thanks so much for your comments and supporting this channel! Please consider subscribing here and turn on alerts, give me thumbs up, if you are willing. No charge for following the channel, and it helps my channel show up in searches. Regardless, thank-you for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!! Kevin Wilson KevinWilsonSBC
Oh I'm subscribed. I'm a wrenches and not to bad at it. But trucker at trade. This 74 Camaro I'm building I want to do it right. A good street car. Here are few things in the pot Cars solid Interior is out dash seats and counsel were really good 454 60 over with Steel crank resized rods Pro max dome 10 to 1 pistons and the skinny's rings Comp Big Mother Thumper AFR Enforcers Victor JR Roller rockers Hooker headers TH350 shift kit I still need a stall converter For front suspension. I still need Manuel gear box and no rag joint .... I got QA1 uppers New disk rosters and bearings New sway bar bushings New 90/10 shocks I'll upgrade later Moog 454 springs For brakes New power booster and master cylinder It's got a 10 bolt I plan on getting the JEGS posi and Richmond gears
I'm really fuzzy on rear suspension. I know this car is going to make power and I want to go strength And fast. I'm seriously thinking of keeping it simple with Caltrax leaf spring suspense. Getting rid of those old bushing
I still have to pit to motor together. And I think I'm going in the right direction on this. Oh and keeping the motor high and back to the firewall. Not cutting the firewall.
@@davidvonanderseck8649 I don't think you will be disappointed with the caltrac/leafspring setup at all!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!! KevinWilsonSBC
I agree, I think I’d spend more into shocks that anything. What good is hp if you can’t put it down. One other thing is shock velocity changes with power management as well, I don’t think you mentioned that. I’d like to see your input on this also. Awesome video.
If you understand shock dyno graphs, you will see exactly where velocity comes into play in conjunction with velocity data channels in your data logger.
One thing I try to relay to the owner of the car is to try and get their front end not be at max lift until their ramp of their power adder is all the way in. All movements as smoothe as possible so the vehicle doesnt get upset.
Amazing videos how can i schedule a phone call with you about setting up a 2005 silverado extended cab for no prep racing? hopefully you can sell me the parts also
Good day sir . Very informative videos . I just found you and ill be hangin around if ya don't mind lol Question regarding replacement of stock rag joints . Would you please recommend a brand /system to replace my stock system in my 66 chevelle Malibu? Thanks brother !
I recommend you watch this other video of mine that talks about your car's suspension upgrades for sure!!! Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/NgJqJqgA7oY/w-d-xo.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
"cheapest shocks I can get" I can tell you from personal experience, the single BIGGEST change I ever made was going from a three way adjustable, to a viking double adjustable shock. It was a night and day difference and worth EVERY penny.
Interesting info on the front rise/compression vs the shift. I have a little wheel speed on the shift in every log. I’ll look into adding a few clicks of compression and seeing if that helps. Thankyou so much
I already know the answer…lol, but; would you say that a Strange single all around would be at least workable on a street combo? Clearly a double is going to be better being that you’re not adjusting both “settings” at once, but didn’t know if you’d be pissing in your own face with a set of singles.
@@KevinWilsonSBC l learn alot watching your videos, but this "truck arm suspension" seems like it could hide some traction/ handling secrets. Thanks for sharing your experience 😊. Dave
Great video as always but Try to shorten them up a little bit and don't explain everything three times because we are getting bored. I am fairly sure everyone who is watching is not a rookie to drag racing.
randalljames thanks so much for your comments! The mustangs work for sure when properly setup and chassis brackets secured. Stock torque boxes are a problem for sure. Let's face it, there is a reason everyone runs a mustang... LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC well there are lots of em... $$ usually matters too.. small , lightweight, and chassis rigidity is pretty good.. I just picked up an 85 S10 that is only S10 in the middle.. :) The thing was 4 link's/ coil over racknPinion up front.. I have never run a car with suspension before (we ran AA/FA- AA/FC) but a buddy said I needed to see what I could do with it.. so dropped this thing in my lap to make run... So after 40+ years of racing, I have to learn "drag race" suspension with those shock things.. :) nothing like going 10khp to a 1000hp turbo :) so I have been picking up info from your videos.. nice job..
YES, YES, YES !! TOE IN...= Dangerous as hell. Great to hear someone bring this up!
Not a racer but I'm learning a lot from your vids. Thank u
Thanks so much, Pete!! Appreciate you dropping a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this series it's been very helpful! I understand the frustration on explaining how everything works together I go through it daily with transmission and torque converter I love helping people understand how it all works and it can be frustrating at times but I wouldn't have it any other way!
Another excellent video Kev! Keep up the great content, this series has been the videos that I look forward to. Looking forward to the next one.
The best explanation I’ve ever seen! Thanks a lot!
Great content as usual. Keep the good work and info coming.
Been watching and taking notes for when my mustang is completed.
I'm pretty sure this video has given me the info we need to fix an issue with our no prep fox. Awesome series so far!
Awesome! Thank you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I'll continue to follow Kevin
It makes perfect sense. I know you go for straight line, and so did I ( old bracket R), looking to make an overpowered cornering machine. My last car
Man I love your teaching skills and humilty. 38:15 to 38:40 was the neeedle in the hay stack I was looking for in the last couple days . Thank you Sir.
I have a 2011 2ss Camaro that gets alot of attention at the gas station and any parking lot or sometimes a red light . In saying that I have had family and friends draw me to the track in it for some friendly grudge racing , moslty lol .
I spent money on hp and knew in my knower I shoulda started with the foundation [suspension}, but I traded that for the rush of power and a thumbs up here and there.
But now my 3k dollar wheels and tires have been some what compomised after installing metal cradle bushings , rear trailing trailing arms ,rear toe rods ....the toe rods mentioned are non adjustable and I think there in lies the problem that ruined the inner rear portion of the rear tires in a very short time .
back right tire was from inner to middle and outer width measurement a depth of 1/32 -3/32- 5/32
fronts are still 9/32 across the board being pretty new .
up front I have issues as well , broken front sway bar link on the left drivers side , ...sway bar link is bent on the right passengers and a bad left front stut . car pulls to the left on a dig and now I know why . this damage is recent .
could a busted motor mount cause the damage up front ?
I know the back has to be in the toe for the rear tire damage . sheesh lol !
Bless you and your dad bro!
Thanks Kevin great info as always
Thx Kevin
Thanks for a very easy to watch and understand video!!! Subscribed and will be back to learn more!
Adding a front ride height sensor is CRITICAL in analyzing & maximizing 60' performance. It's one of the most important sensors you can put on your car combined with front shock/strut travel sensors. What he said about outbound travel time is key.
Kevin - thanks for the assist on my Monza. I used the "Square Chassis" video information and feel confident that I have the rear squared in the car now. It was out of whack a lot more than I would have thought having used a triangulation method before. People do what Kevin says - and don't go off your front spindles to set the rear.
Great. Video!!
Thanks Great information
great info thank you
can't wait for the part 3 rear
Great videos Kevin! Keep them coming.
Hi
Nice looking f-body.
thank you mate!
Fucking awesome ! The way this guy conveys this info is invaluable.
Im a follower now !
Thank you so much, for all the knowledge you share. Great content!!!
Thanks for the info, as I thought the qa1's in the front of my pickup are to loose and I need to tighten the a bit. Don't think it's gonna help my V6 when it runs out of power 6 feet out hahaha.
Can you do a video on what works good for rear suspension setup for a no prep 4th gen fbody or torque arm cars
RJ_BoostedZ28 thanks so much for your comments! I will get that added to the list of videos to come. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great great beginnng vid .thanks
Excellent video. Thankyou for doing these videos.
Thanks what about a c3 vette. I was bending the rear spring so I put a 425lb rear spring & I removed 170lbs out of the nose and was just about to extend the shocks 2" for more travel.
Wow thank you your expertise and knowledge is really helping me see the whole picture in building a fast street car. I'm building up a 74 camaro 454 th350 10 boot
David vonAnderseck thanks so much for your comments and supporting this channel! Please consider subscribing here and turn on alerts, give me thumbs up, if you are willing. No charge for following the channel, and it helps my channel show up in searches. Regardless, thank-you for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Kevin Wilson
KevinWilsonSBC
Oh I'm subscribed.
I'm a wrenches and not to bad at it. But trucker at trade. This 74 Camaro I'm building I want to do it right. A good street car. Here are few things in the pot
Cars solid
Interior is out dash seats and counsel were really good
454 60 over with
Steel crank resized rods
Pro max dome 10 to 1 pistons and the skinny's rings
Comp Big Mother Thumper
AFR Enforcers
Victor JR
Roller rockers
Hooker headers
TH350 shift kit
I still need a stall converter
For front suspension.
I still need Manuel gear box and no rag joint ....
I got QA1 uppers
New disk rosters and bearings
New sway bar bushings
New 90/10 shocks I'll upgrade later
Moog 454 springs
For brakes
New power booster and master cylinder
It's got a 10 bolt
I plan on getting the JEGS posi and Richmond gears
I'm really fuzzy on rear suspension. I know this car is going to make power and I want to go strength And fast.
I'm seriously thinking of keeping it simple with Caltrax leaf spring suspense. Getting rid of those old bushing
I still have to pit to motor together. And I think I'm going in the right direction on this.
Oh and keeping the motor high and back to the firewall. Not cutting the firewall.
@@davidvonanderseck8649 I don't think you will be disappointed with the caltrac/leafspring setup at all!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
KevinWilsonSBC
I agree, I think I’d spend more into shocks that anything. What good is hp if you can’t put it down. One other thing is shock velocity changes with power management as well, I don’t think you mentioned that. I’d like to see your input on this also. Awesome video.
If you understand shock dyno graphs, you will see exactly where velocity comes into play in conjunction with velocity data channels in your data logger.
One thing I try to relay to the owner of the car is to try and get their front end not be at max lift until their ramp of their power adder is all the way in. All movements as smoothe as possible so the vehicle doesnt get upset.
WOW WHAT A GREAT VIDEO
HELLO KEVIN.. YOUR VIDEOS EXCELLENT. VERY EDUCATIONAL BUT IT WOULD BE VERY GOOD IF THEY COULD BE TRANSLATED..
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TEACHINGS..
Awesome video keep them coming.👍
Very informative as always. thanks for sharing!
Can you comment or help me to see if I can use Moroso trick springs for my 96 s10 6.0 or spring rate?
Amazing videos how can i schedule a phone call with you about setting up a 2005 silverado extended cab for no prep racing? hopefully you can sell me the parts also
Good day sir . Very informative videos . I just found you and ill be hangin around if ya don't mind lol
Question regarding replacement of stock rag joints .
Would you please recommend a brand /system to replace my stock system in my 66 chevelle Malibu?
Thanks brother !
I recommend you watch this other video of mine that talks about your car's suspension upgrades for sure!!! Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/NgJqJqgA7oY/w-d-xo.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
my 48 ford business coupe still has the factory steering and alxe
Awesome explanation and video!
"cheapest shocks I can get"
I can tell you from personal experience, the single BIGGEST change I ever made was going from a three way adjustable, to a viking double adjustable shock. It was a night and day difference and worth EVERY penny.
Amen!! Amen!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Interesting info on the front rise/compression vs the shift. I have a little wheel speed on the shift in every log. I’ll look into adding a few clicks of compression and seeing if that helps. Thankyou so much
Do you look for the same time from on front end extension on a track?
Rick Sabol thanks so much for your comments! Not sure I follow the question. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Dear oh my I found the 2nd video .
What is weight bioss?
He actually explained it very well and went into details in this video. So I think you need to watch it again.
Jacob Deem thanks so much for your comments! LOL Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I already know the answer…lol, but; would you say that a Strange single all around would be at least workable on a street combo? Clearly a double is going to be better being that you’re not adjusting both “settings” at once, but didn’t know if you’d be pissing in your own face with a set of singles.
apodbielski913 thanks so much for your comments! I will take that over a stock shock for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
You know your stuff, so maybe a little help tuning C10 truck arm suspension
Thanks, Dave! Are you talking about me making a video for how to setup a C10 torque arm suspension for drag racing? Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC l learn alot watching your videos, but this "truck arm suspension" seems like it could hide some traction/ handling secrets. Thanks for sharing your experience 😊. Dave
A video would be great, thanks 😁
Wheelspeed is the devil!!
damnit weight buy ossssss againnnnnn
Great video as always but Try to shorten them up a little bit and don't explain everything three times because we are getting bored. I am fairly sure everyone who is watching is not a rookie to drag racing.
I think he's doing a good job.....! Way to go Kev...!
I could think of a lot of other cars I would use as a good example.. Mustangs have a rather sordid reputation of going sideways...lol
randalljames thanks so much for your comments! The mustangs work for sure when properly setup and chassis brackets secured. Stock torque boxes are a problem for sure. Let's face it, there is a reason everyone runs a mustang... LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC well there are lots of em... $$ usually matters too.. small , lightweight, and chassis rigidity is pretty good..
I just picked up an 85 S10 that is only S10 in the middle.. :) The thing was 4 link's/ coil over racknPinion up front.. I have never run a car with suspension before (we ran AA/FA- AA/FC) but a buddy said I needed to see what I could do with it.. so dropped this thing in my lap to make run... So after 40+ years of racing, I have to learn "drag race" suspension with those shock things.. :) nothing like going 10khp to a 1000hp turbo :) so I have been picking up info from your videos.. nice job..
This is such great information! Thank you so much for sharing!