Omg you saved me! I can sleep now! My pitch was acting like ailerons , everything right stick was ailerons ( Your are one of the only guys that gets into greasy stuff, trouble shooting guides ! Bless you !
Hello, how are you, a big greeting from Colombia, sorry, I'm starting out in the world of fpv wings, but the truth is there are many videos and a lot of information, could you make a video explaining the step by step configuration of a wing, with inav 7.0. 1 more videos from this year please, I am very interested in learning
There is not a lot of difference in the basic setup from my series on INAV 5. The biggest difference is how the mixer page looks. But the default mixer settings will work fine in most cases.
thanks again man....I would have given up on INAV if it wasn't for you. Still upset that I couldn't figure it out myself or figure out what I had wrong. I learned to fly by myself
No problem Tracy. Don’t feel bad. We’ve all been there and pulled our hair out at some point with this stuff. The mixer does catch quite a few people out, especially with elevons. Enjoy the flying 👍🏻
I've had a terrible time with mine, just cannot get the rolls correct, they both go in the same direction and i tried alternating . Tried everything you've said but no go, i'm in the 10% group. Please help if all possible. Really do appreciate all the time and interest you put in your video's.
I honestly never like to recommend PIFF settings. The same model can have different PIFF tuning due to the power system used or weights. I’d always recommend tuning it as it will be a specific tune for your plane. However, this may help with the AR Wing inavfixedwinggroup.com/recommended-setups/long-range-setups/ar-wing-long-range/
I'm glad I seen this. I had mine set up incorrectly. I'm currently going through trying to get everything ready for my maiden iNav maiden! Hopefully on Thanks Giving. It should finally be +10F. (It has been -25ish F the past few weeks). I had my weight set at 100. One quick question. I have #1 Stabilized Pitch (servo 1) and #2 Stabilized Roll (servo 2), #3 Stabilized Pitch (servo 3), #4 Stabilized Roll (servo 4) where as you have roll/pitch/roll/pitch. Does this matter? I had problems getting my controls to act properly and this was the only way I was able to get the mixer to respond correctly. One (non-related) question. I'm getting my modes set up on my TX (with iNav). Is there an order of precedence for the modes if there is a conflict? IE: if I have a stabilized mode activated, will this conflict with servo auto trim, or GPS waypoint, etc.? Thanks!
Hi Corey, I’m glad the video helped. For an elevon setup, you should have 2 inputs to each servo. So for example: Servo 1 | Stabilised Pitch | 50% Servo 1 | Stabilised Roll | 50% Servo 2 | Stabilised Pitch | 50% Servo 2 | Stabilised Roll | -50% It doesn’t matter if the roll or pitch is first in the order, as the values are just added. But you need one of each input on each servo to give both movements. For the most part, the default iNav wing mixer works fine. There is a mode order. For example RTH will take priority over most modes, then manual. The only real way to avoid conflicts is by setting up your switches so that you can’t select more than 1 mode at a time. Autotrim/servo autotune aren’t flight modes, so would be on a separate switch anyway.
So if the the AR Wing pro calls for 12mm up and 12mm down is that just pitch or aileron individually or do you use for example pitch up and full right aileron to set the max throw of the right aileron up.
No, do each axis at a time. So 12mm for the pitch, and 12mm for the roll. On a 50-50 elevon mix, that should always be the case that if pitch is 12mm, roll will be too. The reason each axis is given is because sometimes they are different. The original AR Wing for example asks for 16mm roll and 12mm pitch.
No problem 👍🏻 Yeah, both together would result in a higher value if both controls are in the same direction (-100 and -100 or 100 and 100). If you had full pitch down and roll right (-100 and 100), you would have one surface up and the other flat.
Hi, I am new to hobby and i want to buy good FC. Do you think latest Matek F405 Mini TE FC is versatile and futureproof investment for both wing and quad use cases? (2-6S input, supports 8motors + 3 servo, Dual BEC (10V/5V), 6UARTS, DJI and analog VTX). Also I've seen that ZOHD drift is recommended for beginners, but do you think AR wing PRO is OK for fixed wing beginner too? I took into consideration AR wingPRO/Dolphin/ZOHD drift. PS. I m looking just for long range cruising with LI-IONS (not racing)
Firstly, welcome to the hobby. When it comes to flight controllers, I would treat fixed wing and quads differently. There are specialist flight controllers for each platform, which will give the best results. The Matek F405 MINITE looks interesting. I'm thinking of getting one for my Nano Goblin. But I wouldn't get it for anything where size or weight isn't a problem. For all the planes you've listed, other than the Drift, a "wing" flight controller would be a better choice. Something like an F405-WSE (Wing Second Edition) would be more suited. The ZOHD Drift is supposed to be quite nice, but don't put too much throw on the elevator. It would be easier to launch than a flying wing like the AR Pro. If set up correctly, the AR Pro is supposed to be ok for beginners too. I don't have the Pro, but have the original AR Wing, and it flies very nicely. But, as mentioned before, flying wings are more difficult to launch in the beginning. The Dolphin is also supposed to be a nice plane to fly. It has grips underneath that make launching easier, and it can fly pretty sedately. I'm actually planning a beginners series for iNav, and am looking at using the Dolphin for that. Cruising is fine with all those planes. The Dolphin and AR Pro would be better for long range. However, please don't do any long range as a beginner. I know the attraction to it. But, it is something that you must grow in to. You need to be 200% confident in your abilities, of the plane, and of the flight controller. Fly close for a while and get used to flying and enjoy it. Then when you feel more confident, slowly go further, in stages. Of course, I'm not recommending you break any laws in your country.
@@MrD Thanks a lot for such advices ! But how to connect servos to such "quad" FC, i don't see PWM pinholes there, and they should have external power source? Those planes are all indeed great with their specific benefits and still hard for me too decide LOL.
The FC should have outputs. These will either control motors or servos, depending on the setup. But I would highly advise against it, especially if you are new to the hobby. Just use the appropriate flight controller. You would also have to make up a power loom for the servos. They won't be able to be powered by the flight controller.
@@MrD Sorry for bother By power loom for servos, you mean step-up/down regulators? Also, I am curious what are main use cases between F405-WSE and F765 WSE and H743-WING V2??
@@brezovprut4431 yes, you will need to supply power to the servos. The simplest way would be with a BEC. The F405-WSE has slightly less features than the F765-WSE and H743-WING v2. That order is also how powerful the processors are. The H743 is pretty new for flight controllers, so potentially has the longest life as far as support goes.
@@MrD Oh that's what those are, I knew I didn't need a compass, cool that lowers the complexity a tad. I was looking at GPS modules and noticed that some of them come with the I2c connectors and some don't then I started thinking oh great mine probably doesn't have it. Thank you!
Mr D. great vid! You mention that the STAB PITCH and STAB ROLL values should add up to 100. I am building a ZOHD DART 250g and when you select the INAV 2.6 preset for the DART 250g, it states to set the STAB ROLL to 80, and STAB PITCH to 65. This adds up to 145. I have heard from other INAV experienced pilots that these values should add up to 100, but now I'm confused. Is this note in the INAV preset a mistake, or is there more to understand? Thanks in advance.
That is a special case which has been tested with the PNP 250G. Marc Hoffmann came up with that preset after a lot of testing with his 250G, so it won’t be over saturating the servos. I actually added it in to iNav. However, for me, I always max out the mixer at 100% for each surface. This makes non-50-50 elevon setups (planks and forward swept wings) simpler. If I feel like it needs more throw, I would boost the servo outputs to 120% on the outputs page and test for over-saturation in manual. If it saturates, or there’s still not enough throw, I would change the physical linkage. So my 250G setup would look pretty different to Marc’s. But for this particular model preset, it has been tested.
With the 250G, in theory, it should need less roll than pitch. As planes with forward swept wings are usually roll sensitive. I’ll probably start with 60% pitch and 40% roll on mine, and see how it flies. I had similar settings on my Mini Drak and that flew very nicely.
I have the AR wing pro on INAV 3.01 and all of the servos are moving in the right direction, but the throw distance isn't quite the same. the servo rods appear to be the same length and in the same hole on the servo arms, but servo #3 deflects about 2 to 3mm greater. will autotrim correct this? what are some of the Gotcha's I need to look for? any insight would be appreciated. TIA.
Hi Moe. Before anything else, make sure that you’re doing all this in manual mode. Don’t worry about the rod length. These may be different due to a range of factors. The manual says between 1.5-2mm of reflex. So just adjust the rods to get both control surfaces at this height with the servos centred. Both surfaces should move by the same amount, to get the recommended 12mm of throw. The throw is defined by the linkage geometry; specifically which holes at the servo and control horns the rods are attached to. However, it would be worth checking that when the servos are centred, that both servo horns are in the same position in relation to the flat side of the servo. If one is in a different position to the other, that could effect throw. Autotrim only adjusts the servo mid-points, so doesn’t really have much effect on the throws. I would suggest getting a throw gauge. But nowhere seems to have any in stock at the moment. These are curved plastic rulers, with sprung metal feet, to hold it on the wing. They are great for measuring throw, and more accurate and easier to use that a ruler.
@@MrD Thanks D. Yeah, as far as I can tell, in manual, at a rest, there is about 2mm of up deflection equally on both control surfaces. And as near as I can tell without a gauge there is about 12 mm of deflection over the entire range of motion on both control surfaces. It just appears when I do a roll maneuver on the bench, that one control surface travels farther than the another. I'm hoping that I am just being hypercritical, and the Auto Trim will sort out any difference. I'm away from my bench at the moment, but when I get home I will comb over what you said and look again. With a quick look online, I found a surface indicator gauge locally. It might be worth the $12 investment before Maiden.
Sounds good. Only thing to mention is that the throws should be 12mm each way, not total movement. So total movement would be 24mm. Also measure from the control surface it’s self for the throw, not the wing. You only measure between the wing and control surface for the reflex or to get the surfaces flat to the wing, if no reflex is needed.
@@MrD okay, I think I might have a problem in my setup or settings. I will have another go at it when I get home from work. I have been doing fpv for years, but this is my first wing. I'm still trying to figure out all the simple caveats. As much as I enjoy building and programming, I sometimes wish these things worked right out of the box. Thanks for your input, I will let you know how it goes.
There’s probably not too much to change. Once you’ve done it a couple of times it becomes easier. The learning curve is a bit steep, but I’m sure you’ll get there.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Omg you saved me! I can sleep now! My pitch was acting like ailerons , everything right stick was ailerons ( Your are one of the only guys that gets into greasy stuff, trouble shooting guides ! Bless you !
You’re welcome. Glad I could help.
Very good explanation and you get right to it and make it easy. You are the man, Bro!
Thanks. I’m glad the video made sense 👍🏻
Great Video , fixes my problems! Thank you !!
Awesome! I’m glad the video helped you Andreas.
A informative channel like this should have more subscribers Mr D. Rock on dude 🤘
Thank you Kevin. Hopefully they’ll come in time 😁🤘🏻🤘🏻
Great Video Mr D
Thank you Zvonimir :)
Perfect
awesome video. big up man
Thanks, hope it helped 👍🏻
I
No problem. Glad I could help 👍🏻
Hello, how are you, a big greeting from Colombia, sorry, I'm starting out in the world of fpv wings, but the truth is there are many videos and a lot of information, could you make a video explaining the step by step configuration of a wing, with inav 7.0. 1 more videos from this year please, I am very interested in learning
There is not a lot of difference in the basic setup from my series on INAV 5.
The biggest difference is how the mixer page looks. But the default mixer settings will work fine in most cases.
thanks again man....I would have given up on INAV if it wasn't for you. Still upset that I couldn't figure it out myself or figure out what I had wrong. I learned to fly by myself
No problem Tracy. Don’t feel bad. We’ve all been there and pulled our hair out at some point with this stuff. The mixer does catch quite a few people out, especially with elevons. Enjoy the flying 👍🏻
im follow your build to fine tune mine
Thanks for another great vid. Great for Noobs like me.
I’m glad they help Scott 👍🏻
I've had a terrible time with mine, just cannot get the rolls correct, they both go in the same direction and i tried alternating . Tried everything you've said but no go, i'm in the 10% group. Please help if all possible. Really do appreciate all the time and interest you put in your video's.
Never Mind, went back to your tx setup guide and all works perfectly. Your awesome man. cheers!
Glad it’s working Phillip. Yep, if you have problems with this, the first thing to verify is the transmitter setup on the receiver page.
Thanks for a great vid. Can you recommend some pids for my first inav build on an AR900 pretty please.
I honestly never like to recommend PIFF settings. The same model can have different PIFF tuning due to the power system used or weights. I’d always recommend tuning it as it will be a specific tune for your plane.
However, this may help with the AR Wing inavfixedwinggroup.com/recommended-setups/long-range-setups/ar-wing-long-range/
Thankyou.
i just put a matek wsef411 in my sonice model 600m
I'm glad I seen this. I had mine set up incorrectly. I'm currently going through trying to get everything ready for my maiden iNav maiden! Hopefully on Thanks Giving. It should finally be +10F. (It has been -25ish F the past few weeks).
I had my weight set at 100.
One quick question. I have #1 Stabilized Pitch (servo 1) and #2 Stabilized Roll (servo 2), #3 Stabilized Pitch (servo 3), #4 Stabilized Roll (servo 4) where as you have roll/pitch/roll/pitch. Does this matter? I had problems getting my controls to act properly and this was the only way I was able to get the mixer to respond correctly.
One (non-related) question. I'm getting my modes set up on my TX (with iNav). Is there an order of precedence for the modes if there is a conflict? IE: if I have a stabilized mode activated, will this conflict with servo auto trim, or GPS waypoint, etc.? Thanks!
Hi Corey, I’m glad the video helped.
For an elevon setup, you should have 2 inputs to each servo. So for example:
Servo 1 | Stabilised Pitch | 50%
Servo 1 | Stabilised Roll | 50%
Servo 2 | Stabilised Pitch | 50%
Servo 2 | Stabilised Roll | -50%
It doesn’t matter if the roll or pitch is first in the order, as the values are just added. But you need one of each input on each servo to give both movements. For the most part, the default iNav wing mixer works fine.
There is a mode order. For example RTH will take priority over most modes, then manual. The only real way to avoid conflicts is by setting up your switches so that you can’t select more than 1 mode at a time. Autotrim/servo autotune aren’t flight modes, so would be on a separate switch anyway.
Another great Video Mr D
Thanks Robert. I'm hoping this will help out a lot of new iNav pilots :)
So if the the AR Wing pro calls for 12mm up and 12mm down is that just pitch or aileron individually or do you use for example pitch up and full right aileron to set the max throw of the right aileron up.
No, do each axis at a time. So 12mm for the pitch, and 12mm for the roll. On a 50-50 elevon mix, that should always be the case that if pitch is 12mm, roll will be too.
The reason each axis is given is because sometimes they are different. The original AR Wing for example asks for 16mm roll and 12mm pitch.
@@MrD Thanks mate makes sense. Pitch and roll individually will get 12mm throw up or down and together because of the mix you may get more throw
No problem 👍🏻
Yeah, both together would result in a higher value if both controls are in the same direction (-100 and -100 or 100 and 100). If you had full pitch down and roll right (-100 and 100), you would have one surface up and the other flat.
love yooou
i fucking love you iv been loooking for this video
You're welcome :)
Hi, I am new to hobby and i want to buy good FC. Do you think latest Matek F405 Mini TE FC is versatile and futureproof investment for both wing and quad use cases? (2-6S input, supports 8motors + 3 servo, Dual BEC (10V/5V), 6UARTS, DJI and analog VTX).
Also I've seen that ZOHD drift is recommended for beginners, but do you think AR wing PRO is OK for fixed wing beginner too? I took into consideration AR wingPRO/Dolphin/ZOHD drift.
PS. I m looking just for long range cruising with LI-IONS (not racing)
Firstly, welcome to the hobby.
When it comes to flight controllers, I would treat fixed wing and quads differently. There are specialist flight controllers for each platform, which will give the best results. The Matek F405 MINITE looks interesting. I'm thinking of getting one for my Nano Goblin. But I wouldn't get it for anything where size or weight isn't a problem. For all the planes you've listed, other than the Drift, a "wing" flight controller would be a better choice. Something like an F405-WSE (Wing Second Edition) would be more suited.
The ZOHD Drift is supposed to be quite nice, but don't put too much throw on the elevator. It would be easier to launch than a flying wing like the AR Pro. If set up correctly, the AR Pro is supposed to be ok for beginners too. I don't have the Pro, but have the original AR Wing, and it flies very nicely. But, as mentioned before, flying wings are more difficult to launch in the beginning. The Dolphin is also supposed to be a nice plane to fly. It has grips underneath that make launching easier, and it can fly pretty sedately. I'm actually planning a beginners series for iNav, and am looking at using the Dolphin for that.
Cruising is fine with all those planes. The Dolphin and AR Pro would be better for long range. However, please don't do any long range as a beginner. I know the attraction to it. But, it is something that you must grow in to. You need to be 200% confident in your abilities, of the plane, and of the flight controller. Fly close for a while and get used to flying and enjoy it. Then when you feel more confident, slowly go further, in stages. Of course, I'm not recommending you break any laws in your country.
@@MrD Thanks a lot for such advices ! But how to connect servos to such "quad" FC, i don't see PWM pinholes there, and they should have external power source? Those planes are all indeed great with their specific benefits and still hard for me too decide LOL.
The FC should have outputs. These will either control motors or servos, depending on the setup. But I would highly advise against it, especially if you are new to the hobby. Just use the appropriate flight controller. You would also have to make up a power loom for the servos. They won't be able to be powered by the flight controller.
@@MrD Sorry for bother By power loom for servos, you mean step-up/down regulators? Also, I am curious what are main use cases between F405-WSE and F765 WSE and H743-WING V2??
@@brezovprut4431 yes, you will need to supply power to the servos. The simplest way would be with a BEC.
The F405-WSE has slightly less features than the F765-WSE and H743-WING v2. That order is also how powerful the processors are. The H743 is pretty new for flight controllers, so potentially has the longest life as far as support goes.
Does inav need gps to have sda2 cla2 wired in or just Rx tx g, 5v ?
Don’t worry about the compass (I2C connections). Just use the UART for the GPS.
@@MrD Oh that's what those are, I knew I didn't need a compass, cool that lowers the complexity a tad. I was looking at GPS modules and noticed that some of them come with the I2c connectors and some don't then I started thinking oh great mine probably doesn't have it. Thank you!
Mr D. great vid! You mention that the STAB PITCH and STAB ROLL values should add up to 100. I am building a ZOHD DART 250g and when you select the INAV 2.6 preset for the DART 250g, it states to set the STAB ROLL to 80, and STAB PITCH to 65. This adds up to 145. I have heard from other INAV experienced pilots that these values should add up to 100, but now I'm confused. Is this note in the INAV preset a mistake, or is there more to understand? Thanks in advance.
That is a special case which has been tested with the PNP 250G. Marc Hoffmann came up with that preset after a lot of testing with his 250G, so it won’t be over saturating the servos. I actually added it in to iNav.
However, for me, I always max out the mixer at 100% for each surface. This makes non-50-50 elevon setups (planks and forward swept wings) simpler. If I feel like it needs more throw, I would boost the servo outputs to 120% on the outputs page and test for over-saturation in manual. If it saturates, or there’s still not enough throw, I would change the physical linkage.
So my 250G setup would look pretty different to Marc’s. But for this particular model preset, it has been tested.
@@MrD Thanks Darren. I’ll have a play with your method for understanding.
With the 250G, in theory, it should need less roll than pitch. As planes with forward swept wings are usually roll sensitive. I’ll probably start with 60% pitch and 40% roll on mine, and see how it flies. I had similar settings on my Mini Drak and that flew very nicely.
@@MrD Thanks. Really appreciate the tip.
No problem James. Have fun.
I have the AR wing pro on INAV 3.01 and all of the servos are moving in the right direction, but the throw distance isn't quite the same. the servo rods appear to be the same length and in the same hole on the servo arms, but servo #3 deflects about 2 to 3mm greater. will autotrim correct this? what are some of the Gotcha's I need to look for? any insight would be appreciated. TIA.
Hi Moe. Before anything else, make sure that you’re doing all this in manual mode.
Don’t worry about the rod length. These may be different due to a range of factors. The manual says between 1.5-2mm of reflex. So just adjust the rods to get both control surfaces at this height with the servos centred.
Both surfaces should move by the same amount, to get the recommended 12mm of throw. The throw is defined by the linkage geometry; specifically which holes at the servo and control horns the rods are attached to. However, it would be worth checking that when the servos are centred, that both servo horns are in the same position in relation to the flat side of the servo. If one is in a different position to the other, that could effect throw.
Autotrim only adjusts the servo mid-points, so doesn’t really have much effect on the throws.
I would suggest getting a throw gauge. But nowhere seems to have any in stock at the moment. These are curved plastic rulers, with sprung metal feet, to hold it on the wing. They are great for measuring throw, and more accurate and easier to use that a ruler.
@@MrD Thanks D.
Yeah, as far as I can tell, in manual, at a rest, there is about 2mm of up deflection equally on both control surfaces. And as near as I can tell without a gauge there is about 12 mm of deflection over the entire range of motion on both control surfaces. It just appears when I do a roll maneuver on the bench, that one control surface travels farther than the another. I'm hoping that I am just being hypercritical, and the Auto Trim will sort out any difference. I'm away from my bench at the moment, but when I get home I will comb over what you said and look again.
With a quick look online, I found a surface indicator gauge locally. It might be worth the $12 investment before Maiden.
Sounds good. Only thing to mention is that the throws should be 12mm each way, not total movement. So total movement would be 24mm. Also measure from the control surface it’s self for the throw, not the wing. You only measure between the wing and control surface for the reflex or to get the surfaces flat to the wing, if no reflex is needed.
@@MrD okay, I think I might have a problem in my setup or settings. I will have another go at it when I get home from work. I have been doing fpv for years, but this is my first wing. I'm still trying to figure out all the simple caveats. As much as I enjoy building and programming, I sometimes wish these things worked right out of the box. Thanks for your input, I will let you know how it goes.
There’s probably not too much to change. Once you’ve done it a couple of times it becomes easier. The learning curve is a bit steep, but I’m sure you’ll get there.
i dont know how to get my controller to move my wings the right way