Rick, I’m new to turning and what I really like about this video is the scientific approach to the testing and not just your opinion. So glad I found your channel
I think this was by far the most thoroughly covered test video I have ever watched out of all the test videos I have ever watched. Thank you for taking the time to perform and record the tests for us to watch.
Thanks for taking the time to do this, some really good info here. One other test I'd like to see regarding sanding is if it makes much difference for being super methodical about sanding with the grain (lathe off, obviously), after sanding with the lathe spinning. During the process, it looks to me like sanding with the grain brings out the detail better, but I haven't tested it methodically. I usually sand up to 1500. Also, regarding heat, I thought that the heat made for better penetration and durability, more than shine. So, it's possible that it makes sense to get the first few coats hot and let the last coat be cooler. Also, I add a layer of wax at the end, theoretically, for a bit of water protection, as the shellac soaks up water, in time.
I've seen woodturners who always sand with the grain after each rotational sanding, but it always looked like a waste of time to me, since I get very good results without doing that. I'll bet you're right about the heat, that explanation had not occurred to me. Thanks for the tip! I usually use a wax coat on top of shellac too. Thanks for commenting and watching, Jonathan.
tl;dr: "so uh... you could probably put it on any old way you want to and it'll still look pretty good" All jokes aside I'm impressed at this man's level of commitment and appreciate the video.
I sometimes use a walnut oil finish. I have heard that heat caused by friction in applying the oil will cause the oil to polymerize drying and hardening quicker. You might consider using high speed and pressure causing heat for the early coats and do the last coat at low speed and low pressure.
Very thorough comparisons of application techniques of FP Rick. Nice job! But I wonder... if a high gloss finish is what someone is after, doesn't lacquer give a higher gloss and longer lasting, more durable finish? FP is simple to apply and cheap to make, and I can relate to that, but it really doesn't hold a shine well for anything that is handled. I found this out by comparing the finishes on bottle stoppers after minimal use. But I may be wrong. It seems to me that the short term oooh, ahhh, factor of FP does not a legacy piece make ;-) Like anyone else I am always looking for a fast, easy to apply, finishing solution, but for me FP has not been the answer and even EEE (which is very expensive-for what it actually is) has little durability. How about doing a video comparison of lacquer vs FP? Thank you for this detailed video. It was obviously a lot of work and very well done! Merry Christmas!
+Rick Stonewood Arts Hi, Rick. I've never used a friction polish based on lacquer (except maybe a product called Qualapad, which I'm not sure is even available anymore). You're right about the durability of a shellac-based friction polish - I only use it for things which won't be handled very often. Making a video about a lacquer friction polish is on my list of things to do. Thanks for your comments!
I've found that lacquer, especially spray lacquer, makes a great final coat for shellac-based finishes. I love the look of French Polish, but it is of course a poor choice for hard-use items. I've found that top coating with spray lacquer gives me the color and chatoyancy I love from the French Polish and the durability and moisture/alcohol resistance of lacquer.
I didn't realize you could put lacquer over shellac. I don't use lacquer, because my wife objects to the smell. But I just moved into a new house and I have a detached garage to use as a workshop, so I can try this out. Thanks for the tip!
Hi Rick, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to video this and share.. I have a couple of observations.. if you put the towel against the rotating work, then slowly apply the F.P.onto to the towel you get little or virtually no spatter.. I apply A variable pressure to the towel.. as in when it is starting warm up or getting very warm I back of the pressure a little. however please consider also that the diameter of the work piece also has some relevance .. think about it.. The Spindle RPM is not the same as miles per hour.. and pen blanks or even 2" diameter spindle blanks will be travelling faster past your paper towel then a 10" bowl at its perimeter .. i.e. if you ( put some larger wheels on to your car it will travel slower at a GIVEN or FIXED RPM than with it would with the normal wheels.) therefore less miles per hour at said (given/fixed RPM). Also.. sanding speeds will also vary between different wood types and different work piece sizes.. sometimes if you try to sand to fast... it seems to just burnish the sandpaper rather than smoothing out the work surface .. great videos thank you.... oh.. one or two more thoughts.. in the automotive industry they fine sand between multiple coats of lacquer to achieve the high gloss.... Surely friction polish is just french polishing on the lathe... :-) except that the french polishing is a lot more time consuming.. he he.... is the secret ingredient of Yorkshire grit just ... superfine pumice, a crushed volcanic glass ? take a look at this video.. th-cam.com/video/MxRIPkzgUTM/w-d-xo.html
here we go... Fabian Hentschel french polishing Padouk Bowl with High Gloss Shellac Finish - French Polish - Woodturning th-cam.com/video/GAwjxRX45-U/w-d-xo.html
That pretty much matches my experience - learned from trial and error. I do apply a sanding sealer first. Thanks for running all these tests and sharing the results. Great info.
Three thoughts - one advantage of putting the FP on with the lathe not running is that there is less splatter that has to be cleaned off the bed ways. Of course, you could always lay the other half of that piece of paper towel to catch the splatter. Or another approach is to leave a thick layer of sawdust on the bed ways to catch the splatter. Second, I have one of those rubber pads with velcro on one side that I use to hold hook/loop sanding discs. I am going to try flipping it over to use as a pad to minimum finger burning. Third, one of the things that I read somewhere is that the effect of heat is to melt the shellac. Seems to me that melting the shellac might be more helpful in producing a smooth, polished surface if there is more shellac on the surface (ie, with many more coats of FP). But one of the objectives of FP is to be able to quickly finish a piece, which means achieving the desired result with fewer applications rather than more. So achieving a really high gloss seems to be inconsistent with the objective of using FP to begin with, and it might make more sense to use some other form of finish (eg, sprayed lacquer) if high gloss is the objective. Or saying it differently, FP gives a nice medium gloss with relatively few applications and in a short period of time, but may not be the best choice for situations that call for a truly high gloss finish.
Good point about the splattering, Louie. It's usually not a problem for me, because I don't put much liquid on my applicator, and I never put it on by dripping it onto the spinning workpiece. Thanks for commenting!
I wonder how hitting the piece with bees-wax first (saw on old "wortheffort" video, then using the faster speed along with the friction polish to melt the wax into the wood along with the polish would come out.
I once mixed up (and melted up) a mixture of carnuba wax, beeswax, and shellac. I found it was not as good as friction polish. However, I frequently follow friction polish with carnuba wax, applied while turning then melted on with a cloth. Beeswax in general does not produce a high shine, but carnuba wax. Thanks for watching.
I have had great luck using the orange Super Chamois. It is soft and thick. I reuse the same pad until it starts breaking down. This is usually several applications.
You’re original method looks better to me. I could see the ring around the spindle where you put the tip of the bottle. Great video, thanks for the info!
Well done. Just started turning myself so I learned plenty. What's your polish made of? I heard shellac and oil, but looking for something more specific so I can give it a try.
Hi, WV. Thanks for watching my video. I have an earlier video (th-cam.com/video/fODxyikTrFA/w-d-xo.html) that details how to make the friction polish. Hope it helps!
An actual scientific experiment. Wonderful! Nice to know this stuff is not too picky. If light pressure works so well, maybe a leather pad (a bit of chamois) could be used for a long time (put in a zip lock bag between uses).
Thank you for your time and sharing. Your conclusions are about the same as the ones I've determined from my experiments. I'm glad to have my conclusions validated. If you don't mind me asking, what is the silver backing you have on the wall of your shop? Again, thank you.
Hi, Andrew. I’m glad to have my conclusions validated also! That silver stuff is garage door insulation. It’s an aluminum foil over fiberglass. It comes in several sheets that are about the size of garage door panels. It works pretty good.
Great video, thanks for the testing. I've been wondering these same questions, as in different applicators, speed, etc., but never wanted to take the time to test them out. Question: Is that silver backdrop for dust/sound, or for camera purposes? By the way, I use the same rocker apron. Always like your videos and happy holidays.
Thank you so much Rick for sharing your valuable experiences with us. I love your down to earth approach and your always honest comments. You are a giant among turners brother. Many more happy turns in life. :-)
Thanks again Rick. This comparison of application techniques was very informative and helpful. I recently started using car wax over friction and over CA finishes and really like the finished product. What are your thoughts with this final coat except taking more time?
Have you tried scotch bright pads between each application. It smooths the layers out. After three applications the finish is very smooth and shinny deep
Years ago Russ Fairfield posted many tips on his web site. He has, unfortunately, since passed and is greatly missed and his tips site appears to be gone. However, I still remember many of his words. He said the very best applicator for a friction polish is a small piece of terrycloth towel. I began using that as my applicator and have tried many others. The terrycloth gives me the best result. He also said, if it doesn't get hot, you aren't doing it right. Just food for thought. Billy B.
I've seen Russ Fairfield's web site. I believe he also had at least one video on TH-cam, possibly posted by a club where he spoke. I'll try out the terrycloth idea. Thanks.
I have always been told to never, ever take any type of clothe to the lathe that doesn't rip easily - so really only paper towels. Perhaps for more experienced turners a terry clothe is a good option, but I would not recommend it for people who are relatively new at woodturning. Could be very dangerous.
Rick, have you any idea how abrasive paper towel is? Try what we did in the army - use an old wadded up pantyhose. But wad it up PROPERLY so that there are no loose bits sticking out.
Good looking finish! I usually just burnish with wood shavings and call it good. I'll have to look into this stuff and try it out. good looking results!
Awesome video. Thank you. Maybe you can answer this question. I hand chisel bowls, so don’t own a lathe. I made the 1:1:1 shine juice. I am thinking I can use my handheld small car polisher as it produces heat as it applies it, essentially becoming my “lathe”. My question is what head should I use? It comes with two different sponges (they create the most friction heat) and a big fluffy lambs wool applicator heads all interchangeable on Velcro. Should I use the sponge head? Or fabricate something with a chamois or cloth onto Velcro and use that since I can’t use paper towel. Thank you.
Interesting idea! Seems like a sponge would just tear up because the mixture is a little sticky at first. I think I would tie some t-shirt material around the sponge or wool head, and see if that works. I’d love to hear back from you after you try it.
Thanks for this video and for all the time you spent preparing. I am trying OB shine juice for the first time and am having some trouble. I double checked and I do have the correct ingredients and mixture. I can't get to shine and it dries with streaks. I am coating some spalted maple that was sanded to 600 grit. It always dries with a flat sheen or streaky. Any ideas? Thanks.
Streaks usually means too much polish too quickly. Dulling after application, I've found, is usually due to wood that is still wet or green. Those are the only things that I can think of. I've also had problems when the friction polish gets old, or maybe when the shellac gets old, although I've had comments from turners who say their friction polish last for years (and comments in the opposite direction, as well - that it will only last for three months or so).
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thanks Rick I will check the moisture content. The polish is new I just picked up the ingredients last week. I may have been putting on too much at one time, Ill try again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
Holding the tenon is a Stronghold chuck with 100 mm (about 4”). With the woodworm screw, I used a Record SC4 chuck with 130 mm (about 5”) jaws. Thanks for watching, Gautam.
I have a video comparing various sanding grits. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/gXvNvcIwVCoI/w-d-xo.htmlt doesn't, however, test sanding at different speeds. Sounds like a good idea for a video though!
If the low speed doesn't get as hot, it probably continues to take on more polish for longer before it cures. It is really obvious to me that the low speed side looks better, and I could see it before you said it.
Hi Rick...just watched this video again as I just tried friction polish for the first time on my first lidded box...was finding at low speed I kept getting bad streaks...watched this and tried at high speed after getting the streaks out by using steel wool...high speed here resulted in a great finish on oak...I was using Mylands and will be making Cap'n Eddie's OB juice next...do you think thinning the Mylands a bit with DNA could help?...thanks for all your videos..learning lots!..
Generally, if you're getting streaks with friction polish, it's because you put on too much. Shellawax, a commercial friction polish, says the only mistake you can make is to put it on too heavily. I haven't used Mylands, but I doubt it's any different than any other. Cap'n Eddy's OB juice is the same formula that I use. Cap'n Eddy puts it on at a slow rpm. I like the higher rpm myself. Thanks for watching and commenting, Mike.
Very thorough tests, thank you for taking the time to do this video. I use FP when turning pens when using some darker woods like Padauk or Babinga and it typically looks great, not so much on lighter woods like Tamarind or Maple. This helps, I have been thinking of trying sanding sealer after a 600 grit final sanding and then removing excess with 0000 steel wool and then applying the FP, to see if I can get a higher gloss deeper finish, have you had any experience with this method? Thanks!! Again great video!
I haven't tried that. I usually get a very high gloss with just the friction polish. I'd be interested in hearing your results from that. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks Rick, tried it yesterday on a pen I made from Olive wood and got a very nice shine, not quite as glossy as say a CA finish. Maybe more coats might have helped I don't know, but I did Mylands sanding sealer then the steel wool, then 4 coats of Mylands friction polish, one right after the other then then buffed down with a lint free cloth on a little higher speed. Worked well enough, but would still like to get a deeper looking glossier finish if possible. If we could attach pictures here I would.
I would not recommend friction polish for a tool handle. Friction polish is primarily shellac, which does not hold up well to moisture. I use an oil finish, such as walnut oil, or a wiping varnish, or just no finish at all.
Make sure your proportions of the friction polish are correct - 1 to 1 to 1. Use denatured alcohol, and not rubbing alcohol - I found that rubbing alcohol gave a duller finish. Make sure you’re applying pressure when you polish it - the applicator piece should get hot in your hand. Also, if the wood isn’t dry, I’ve found the friction polish looks good initially, but then dulls a good bit in just a few minutes. Hope that helps!
A pad made from, say, an old pair of jeans, and attached to a piece of wood would be as effective, and less dangerous to ones fingers! This would also have the advantage of no possibility of leaving paper particles on the surface.
Rick great video thanks a bunch. Just two questions someone commented on using a sanding sealer I have heard that before what does it do? also to get a brighter shine I have seen Cap'n Eddie use something like Renaissance wax would that help with a better shine as well as add more protection
A sanding sealer is really not necessary, but it won't hurt. Most sanding sealers are dilute dewaxed shellac. I have never used Renaissance wax. It's a microcrystalline wax, used by museums for preservation of fine wood items. I've bought some microcrystalline wax (not a brand name) to experiment with and make a video of, but haven't gotten to it yet.
Am getting lines in the finish. How can I get the finish without the swirl lines. It looks good and shiny but not a perfect look because of these lines. I've tried using blue shop towels to bounty paper towels. Slow speed Medium speed to High speed. Definitely gets hot. Using Mylands sanding sealer and Mylands Friction polish.Thanks
Lines in the finish usually means you’re putting on too much liquid. I’ve never used the Mylands products, but I imagine it’s exactly the same as the home-brew mix. About the only thing you can do wrong is tp put on too much. Sand it down again and try with less polish. Jere’s a link to a good site on using friction polish. www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish10.shtml
@@RickTurnsWoodturning I normally just take a paper towl and turn container to its side and apply a dab on there. I feel am not over doing it,but I might be. I may also need to store a little of the friction polish in a squeeze bottle to help control how much am applying to towel. Thanks for your help Rick. Any suggestions is much appreciated.
I have been using mylands friction polish but have been having issues with stealing on my finished piece. I’m running the lathe at 1200 and using a good amount of pressure with an old undershirt as an applicator. Any idea where I’m going wrong?
I just finished watching this video which is a very good video!!!! First I would like to say that you may want to rethink your reply to Rick's comment because wearing a glove at the lathe can be a safety hazard like you mentioned at the end of the video about paper towels and cloth towels. My second comment is that I am by no means an expert on friction polish but it is my understanding that basically the only thing the DNA does is thins out the polish and acts as drying agent, so wouldn't mixing up a small bit of polish without DNA give you what you are looking for for your test?
You're absolutely right about the gloves, Kurt. And about the alcohol in the polish. A few days ago, I did try putting on straight shellac, right from the can, 3lb cut, and got a somewhat sketchy finish. However, I didn't video that, and didn't think to repeat it for the video. Thanks for the suggestion!
I buy those bottles off Amazon, usually in boxes of twelve (so I don't have to buy them very often). I might pay $10-$15 for a box. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Hi Rick. Great video. I see in your videos you use carnuba wax + friction polish. I have mixed results. Sometimes I “buff” the wax right off of use a paper towel too long. I also notice even minor handling removes the wax. Any suggestions?
Could you help me out with this. I’ve followed the recipe and application guidelines but within 2 hours of finishing 4 layers, the glossy shine reduces to a dull sheen.
Hi, Randy. I’ve had that happen too, but usually only when the wood was still fresh. I presume the moisture in the wood caused the problem, since shellac is damaged by water. If the wood is already dry, you might try putting on a coat of undiluted shellac, and after it dries, try the friction polish again.
RickTurns Thanks for the reply. On the next piece, I sealed it with a 2lb cut of shellac then sanded to 600. The same thing happened. Comparing the two, the one I sealed is virtually the same as the first one that wasn’t sealed. I’ll do up another piece with extra dry wood to see if moisture is the culprit. I might even try applying the polish to some PVC pipe to see if my recipe is the issue.
FYI...the polish on the PVC pipe turned out great so must be that the wood is too porous and needs to be sealed well. I’ll try a couple more coats of 2 lb shellac or Tung Oil before trying another application of polish.
You certainly could put shellawax over the eee-ultra shine, but that might be overkill. I believe the eee-ultra shine includes a friction polish with the polishing abrasive. Thanks for watching, Pedro.
I have tried the OB shine juice on a couple of bowls and I am real happy with the results. I only problem I am having is at the center of the inside of the bowl where I get rings/ridges. I have tried ramping up the speed (a lot) and I can't seem to get a smooth finish in the center. Any suggestions?
I’ve never had that exact problem, but rings and/or ridges generally mean you’ve got too much finish on. The center is spinning slower than the outer areas (linear speed), so you need to apply less finish in that area. Try sanding the center to remove the built-up finish, then just put a small amt on the cloth and apply that. After it is on, add a little bit more to the cloth and apply it. I hope that works for you, Tom.
@rickturns, Hi Rick, I've just discovered this polish, I have a piece I'd like to use this on but it already has danish oil on it, is it okay to apply this over danish oil finish? thanks
Hi, Barry. I don't think you'd have any problem putting any finish on top of an oil finish. Just make sure the oil finish is dry, which should only take a few days at the most. Friction polish can be made with danish oil or tung oil instead of boiled linseed oil, so there shouldn't be any problems.
Wait I'm curious about this. Are you guys suggesting you can make a friction polish using Danish Oil, Shellac and Denatured alcohol (1 part each)? If that's wrong, how you you mix a friction Danish polish? Thanks!!
Hi, Jeneifer. I only use friction polish on small items. Shellac is not a durable finish at all. On bowls and vases I use either a penetrating oil finish or a varnish finish.
I've never used a stain on one of my turnings, although I have used an aniline dye on bowls. I only use friction polish on small items, such as weed pots and tea light holders. I'm surprised that a stain, which penetrates the wood, would be affected by putting shellac on top.
I love this guy's videos! Even if he was blowing smoke up everybody posterior, he's entertaining. However, Rick's techniques work. My two favorite characteristics? His shirts and the hermetically sealed woodshop...Plus he's a Sci-Fi nut. Beam me up, Rick.
Use button lac in it's solid form, press against the wood and melt in and into the surface......this is the way it was done hundreds of years ago in India foot lathes.!!
I wish I had seen this video years ago! Some thoughts, six years later: Sanding along the axis (with the grain) is really only important with materials that have very fine or no grain, Ebony comes to mind, but acrylic or resin is what I find really benefit from axial sanding, end even then the difference is more how long does it take to get to the gloss. axial and radial sanding seems to be a little faster and more consistent for me, but I hate finishing. If course, I'm not putting friction finish on the man made materials, so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. bottom line is the smoother it is before you start polishing, the better the finish in the end. To that end, if its a coarse to medium grained material I sand up to 320 grit, apply a coat or two of sanding sealer, then work from 320 up to 1500. For some species, oak comes to mind, it helps to give a fine misting of water to raise the grain, let it dry completely, then apply the sanding sealer. I sand down to 1000-1500 before polishing, put on two coats of polish, the first coat goes on with a soft bristled tooth brush scrubbing it in axially, then I buff it in pretty fast, 1700-2000 rpm getting it warm, then slow down for another coat of two. Here is where we differ. after that second coat is good and hard, say 15 or 20 minutes later, I then hit it with 1500-2000 grit paper, or a very fine purple or white Scotch-Brite™ pad, the one or two more coats as 750 (top end of the low speed range on my Rikon 70-220), then polish with either York micro-fine, or more likely these days white automotive polish, then a final buff with a clean cloth. Top it off with two or three coats of hard carnauba wax for depth, and there ya go. I would really love to see you revisit this, and tell us what you've learned since then, what is the difference between friction polish and OB's Shine Juice? Have you tried straight linseed or tung oil? I do use boiled linseed and Tung oil on furniture projects but haven't used it on the lathe. Anyway, great video, thanks for making it!
Wow, you have a really long finishing protocol! I definitely wouldn’t have the patience for all that. Your turned pieces must look great! Frictions polish contains boiled linseed oil, as well as dilute shellac. Capt Billy’s OB Shine Juice is just that - friction polish. Thanks for watching, Wesley.
Thank you for taking the time to test these variables. I appreciate your effort and sharing with the rest of us!
Thanks for watching, Karl.
Rick, I’m new to turning and what I really like about this video is the scientific approach to the testing and not just your opinion. So glad I found your channel
Thank you, Matt.
I think this was by far the most thoroughly covered test video I have ever watched out of all the test videos I have ever watched. Thank you for taking the time to perform and record the tests for us to watch.
Thanks for the compliment, Richard!
Thanks for taking the time to do this, some really good info here. One other test I'd like to see regarding sanding is if it makes much difference for being super methodical about sanding with the grain (lathe off, obviously), after sanding with the lathe spinning. During the process, it looks to me like sanding with the grain brings out the detail better, but I haven't tested it methodically. I usually sand up to 1500. Also, regarding heat, I thought that the heat made for better penetration and durability, more than shine. So, it's possible that it makes sense to get the first few coats hot and let the last coat be cooler. Also, I add a layer of wax at the end, theoretically, for a bit of water protection, as the shellac soaks up water, in time.
I've seen woodturners who always sand with the grain after each rotational sanding, but it always looked like a waste of time to me, since I get very good results without doing that. I'll bet you're right about the heat, that explanation had not occurred to me. Thanks for the tip! I usually use a wax coat on top of shellac too. Thanks for commenting and watching, Jonathan.
You put a lot of work into these. Your videos are often chock full of great research. Thanks for what you do! Subscribed.
Thank you!
Thank you Rick. I’m new to using the OBShine juice. Really didn’t know how to apply and make it “pop”. You covered it all. Awesome.
Glad I could help, Kenneth. Thanks much for watching.
This was a lot of work, and I’ve noticed many things I’ve been doing wrong- based on the results of your trials. THANK YOU, GOOD SIR!
Thanks for watching and commenting, Cathyd.
Your a real asset to the wood turning community. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, John.
Awesome! Thanks for teaching me how to get a great, fast, and inexpensive finish on my projects with "Low friction polishing"!
Thanks for watching, MrJoey.
thank you for spending the time going through all that info, I'm sure it took quite a while
Thanks for commenting!
Thanks Rick for demystifying the polishing process, it was very helpful for me so I will be using your final analyses for my woodturning polishing.
+Allan Wright Thank you, Allan!
tl;dr: "so uh... you could probably put it on any old way you want to and it'll still look pretty good"
All jokes aside I'm impressed at this man's level of commitment and appreciate the video.
Thank you, J.
I sometimes use a walnut oil finish. I have heard that heat caused by friction in applying the oil will cause the oil to polymerize drying and hardening quicker. You might consider using high speed and pressure causing heat for the early coats and do the last coat at low speed and low pressure.
Thanks, John. I'll try that!
Very thorough comparisons of application techniques of FP Rick. Nice job! But I wonder... if a high gloss finish is what someone is after, doesn't lacquer give a higher gloss and longer lasting, more durable finish? FP is simple to apply and cheap to make, and I can relate to that, but it really doesn't hold a shine well for anything that is handled. I found this out by comparing the finishes on bottle stoppers after minimal use. But I may be wrong. It seems to me that the short term oooh, ahhh, factor of FP does not a legacy piece make ;-) Like anyone else I am always looking for a fast, easy to apply, finishing solution, but for me FP has not been the answer and even EEE (which is very expensive-for what it actually is) has little durability. How about doing a video comparison of lacquer vs FP? Thank you for this detailed video. It was obviously a lot of work and very well done! Merry Christmas!
+Rick Stonewood Arts Hi, Rick. I've never used a friction polish based on lacquer (except maybe a product called Qualapad, which I'm not sure is even available anymore). You're right about the durability of a shellac-based friction polish - I only use it for things which won't be handled very often. Making a video about a lacquer friction polish is on my list of things to do. Thanks for your comments!
I've found that lacquer, especially spray lacquer, makes a great final coat for shellac-based finishes. I love the look of French Polish, but it is of course a poor choice for hard-use items. I've found that top coating with spray lacquer gives me the color and chatoyancy I love from the French Polish and the durability and moisture/alcohol resistance of lacquer.
I didn't realize you could put lacquer over shellac. I don't use lacquer, because my wife objects to the smell. But I just moved into a new house and I have a detached garage to use as a workshop, so I can try this out. Thanks for the tip!
Hi Rick, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to video this and share..
I have a couple of observations..
if you put the towel against the rotating work, then slowly apply the F.P.onto to the towel you get little or virtually no spatter..
I apply A variable pressure to the towel.. as in when it is starting warm up or getting very warm I back of the pressure a little. however please consider also that the diameter of the work piece also has some relevance .. think about it.. The Spindle RPM is not the same as miles per hour.. and pen blanks or even 2" diameter spindle blanks will be travelling faster past your paper towel then a 10" bowl at its perimeter .. i.e. if you ( put some larger wheels on to your car it will travel slower at a GIVEN or FIXED RPM than with it would with the normal wheels.) therefore less miles per hour at said (given/fixed RPM).
Also.. sanding speeds will also vary between different wood types and different work piece sizes.. sometimes if you try to sand to fast... it seems to just burnish the sandpaper rather than smoothing out the work surface ..
great videos thank you....
oh.. one or two more thoughts.. in the automotive industry they fine sand between multiple coats of lacquer to achieve the high gloss....
Surely friction polish is just french polishing on the lathe... :-)
except that the french polishing is a lot more time consuming.. he he....
is the secret ingredient of Yorkshire grit just ... superfine pumice, a crushed volcanic glass ?
take a look at this video..
th-cam.com/video/MxRIPkzgUTM/w-d-xo.html
here we go...
Fabian Hentschel french polishing
Padouk Bowl with High Gloss Shellac Finish - French Polish - Woodturning
th-cam.com/video/GAwjxRX45-U/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tips, Richard. I agree about the French polishing. And I'm pretty sure you're right about Yorkshire grit and pumice
ottenstone.
I use the blue shop towels, they are like regular paper towels, but a little thicker and more durable.
Thanks for the tip, Charles!
That pretty much matches my experience - learned from trial and error. I do apply a sanding sealer first. Thanks for running all these tests and sharing the results. Great info.
+Mark Hazlewood Thanks, Mark!
Very instructive. Really do appreciate the methodical approach
Thank you, Paul.
Three thoughts - one advantage of putting the FP on with the lathe not running is that there is less splatter that has to be cleaned off the bed ways. Of course, you could always lay the other half of that piece of paper towel to catch the splatter. Or another approach is to leave a thick layer of sawdust on the bed ways to catch the splatter.
Second, I have one of those rubber pads with velcro on one side that I use to hold hook/loop sanding discs. I am going to try flipping it over to use as a pad to minimum finger burning.
Third, one of the things that I read somewhere is that the effect of heat is to melt the shellac. Seems to me that melting the shellac might be more helpful in producing a smooth, polished surface if there is more shellac on the surface (ie, with many more coats of FP). But one of the objectives of FP is to be able to quickly finish a piece, which means achieving the desired result with fewer applications rather than more. So achieving a really high gloss seems to be inconsistent with the objective of using FP to begin with, and it might make more sense to use some other form of finish (eg, sprayed lacquer) if high gloss is the objective. Or saying it differently, FP gives a nice medium gloss with relatively few applications and in a short period of time, but may not be the best choice for situations that call for a truly high gloss finish.
Good point about the splattering, Louie. It's usually not a problem for me, because I don't put much liquid on my applicator, and I never put it on by dripping it onto the spinning workpiece. Thanks for commenting!
I wonder how hitting the piece with bees-wax first (saw on old "wortheffort" video, then using the faster speed along with the friction polish to melt the wax into the wood along with the polish would come out.
I once mixed up (and melted up) a mixture of carnuba wax, beeswax, and shellac. I found it was not as good as friction polish. However, I frequently follow friction polish with carnuba wax, applied while turning then melted on with a cloth. Beeswax in general does not produce a high shine, but carnuba wax. Thanks for watching.
Ahh, thanks for the info. I'll be sure and try it..
Cheers
I use EEE and follows with Mylands (3 coats, after sanding to 400 grit. 3 coats, looks great!
Thanks for all the GOOD info. You really went all out to do this. Thanks again. Merry Christmas.
Thanks, Tim!
Very interesting results Rick. Thank you for sharing.
+Jack Maravola Thanks, Jack!
I find that if the polish is to thick, I get lines in my finish and the shine is not has good.
Good test.
I should have left my finish open longer to get it thicker, which might have made that particular test more useful. Thanks for commenting.
I have had great luck using the orange Super Chamois. It is soft and thick. I reuse the same pad until it starts breaking down. This is usually several applications.
Thanks for the tip, Randy!
You’re original method looks better to me. I could see the ring around the spindle where you put the tip of the bottle. Great video, thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching, Benjamin.
Well done. Just started turning myself so I learned plenty. What's your polish made of? I heard shellac and oil, but looking for something more specific so I can give it a try.
Hi, WV. Thanks for watching my video. I have an earlier video (th-cam.com/video/fODxyikTrFA/w-d-xo.html) that details how to make the friction polish. Hope it helps!
Thanks for running these tests. Well worth it!
+Wood Frontier Thank you!
An actual scientific experiment. Wonderful!
Nice to know this stuff is not too picky.
If light pressure works so well, maybe a leather pad (a bit of chamois) could be used for a long time (put in a zip lock bag between uses).
Thanks for commenting and watching, J.
Great video Rick! Learned quite a bit by the video. I now know what I have been doing wrong in attempting a good finish. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Ronald.
I did something wrong. It got gummy on me. Maybe not enough friction or too soon for second coat. New to turning, great channel!
Thank you, Garc. F you use too much, it can kind of gum up and leave streaks. Apply it lightly - maybe that will work for you.
Thank you for your time and sharing. Your conclusions are about the same as the ones I've determined from my experiments. I'm glad to have my conclusions validated.
If you don't mind me asking, what is the silver backing you have on the wall of your shop? Again, thank you.
Hi, Andrew. I’m glad to have my conclusions validated also! That silver stuff is garage door insulation. It’s an aluminum foil over fiberglass. It comes in several sheets that are about the size of garage door panels. It works pretty good.
@RickTurns Ah. In the video it appeared to be in sheets, more like a tarp. Thanks.
Great video, thanks for the testing. I've been wondering these same questions, as in different applicators, speed, etc., but never wanted to take the time to test them out. Question: Is that silver backdrop for dust/sound, or for camera purposes? By the way, I use the same rocker apron. Always like your videos and happy holidays.
Thanks! The silver backdrop is actually insulation on the concrete walls of the basement.
+ah, ok, thanks.RickTurns
Thank you so much for putting this together for us. Great editing too.
+Aaron DC mediA Thank you, Aaron!
Thank you so much Rick for sharing your valuable experiences with us. I love your down to earth approach and your always honest comments. You are a giant among turners brother. Many more happy turns in life. :-)
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Sailabear.
Thanks again Rick. This comparison of application techniques was very informative and helpful. I recently started using car wax over friction and over CA finishes and really like the finished product. What are your thoughts with this final coat except taking more time?
I never thought about using car wax as a final top coat. Sounds like it would work well. As I recall, most car waxes contain carnuba wax.
Have you tried scotch bright pads between each application. It smooths the layers out. After three applications the finish is very smooth and shinny deep
Thanks for the tip, Theodore. I’ve never tried that, but it sounds like a good idea.
Interesting results
Thanks
James
Thanks for watching, James.
Years ago Russ Fairfield posted many tips on his web site. He has, unfortunately, since passed and is greatly missed and his tips site appears to be gone. However, I still remember many of his words. He said the very best applicator for a friction polish is a small piece of terrycloth towel. I began using that as my applicator and have tried many others. The terrycloth gives me the best result. He also said, if it doesn't get hot, you aren't doing it right. Just food for thought.
Billy B.
I've seen Russ Fairfield's web site. I believe he also had at least one video on TH-cam, possibly posted by a club where he spoke. I'll try out the terrycloth idea. Thanks.
I have always been told to never, ever take any type of clothe to the lathe that doesn't rip easily - so really only paper towels. Perhaps for more experienced turners a terry clothe is a good option, but I would not recommend it for people who are relatively new at woodturning. Could be very dangerous.
so mush information exactly what I was searching for thx U for Ure work on this experience
Thanks for watching, Denis.
Thanks for sharing all the good info.
Thanks for commenting!
Rick, have you any idea how abrasive paper towel is? Try what we did in the army - use an old wadded up pantyhose. But wad it up PROPERLY so that there are no loose bits sticking out.
I’ll have to try that. Thanks!
Really informative. As a newbie it sure helped me.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Harris.
Good looking finish! I usually just burnish with wood shavings and call it good. I'll have to look into this stuff and try it out. good looking results!
+NosillaWilla Thank you, Nosilla. Friction polish is easy to make and use. I'm sure you'll get good results.
Great detail. I ha e learned alot. Thank you for the quality content!
Thanks for watching, Lukasz.
educatioal, thanks for videoing the experiment.
Thank you, Thomas.
Great video Rick, very informative. Cheers, Jim
Thanks, Jim!
Awesome video. Thank you. Maybe you can answer this question. I hand chisel bowls, so don’t own a lathe. I made the 1:1:1 shine juice. I am thinking I can use my handheld small car polisher as it produces heat as it applies it, essentially becoming my “lathe”. My question is what head should I use? It comes with two different sponges (they create the most friction heat) and a big fluffy lambs wool applicator heads all interchangeable on Velcro. Should I use the sponge head? Or fabricate something with a chamois or cloth onto Velcro and use that since I can’t use paper towel. Thank you.
Interesting idea! Seems like a sponge would just tear up because the mixture is a little sticky at first. I think I would tie some t-shirt material around the sponge or wool head, and see if that works. I’d love to hear back from you after you try it.
RickTurns thank you so much. I’ll let y’all know. Keep up the
great work.
Thanks for this video and for all the time you spent preparing. I am trying OB shine juice for the first time and am having some trouble. I double checked and I do have the correct ingredients and mixture. I can't get to shine and it dries with streaks. I am coating some spalted maple that was sanded to 600 grit. It always dries with a flat sheen or streaky. Any ideas? Thanks.
Streaks usually means too much polish too quickly. Dulling after application, I've found, is usually due to wood that is still wet or green. Those are the only things that I can think of. I've also had problems when the friction polish gets old, or maybe when the shellac gets old, although I've had comments from turners who say their friction polish last for years (and comments in the opposite direction, as well - that it will only last for three months or so).
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thanks Rick I will check the moisture content. The polish is new I just picked up the ingredients last week. I may have been putting on too much at one time, Ill try again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
you can use a piece of leather as a pad between your hand and the paper towel?
That would certainly cut down on the finger-burning problem! Thanks for the suggestion, Walter.
thank you for your testing, from a novice turner... i am learning something new every day... not bad for an old guy...
Thanks for watching, Jack.
@ RickTurns : What kind of a chuck are you using to hold that wood? ... seems to hold quite a narrow tenon.
Holding the tenon is a Stronghold chuck with 100 mm (about 4”). With the woodworm screw, I used a Record SC4 chuck with 130 mm (about 5”) jaws. Thanks for watching, Gautam.
Thanks Rick good test well explained. Have you done a similar one on lathe speed sanding?
I have a video comparing various sanding grits. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/gXvNvcIwVCoI/w-d-xo.htmlt doesn't, however, test sanding at different speeds. Sounds like a good idea for a video though!
obrigado pelo seu trabalho voces sao pessoas diferenciadas Deus te abençoe sempre um abraço carlos.
Thanks for commenting, Carlos.
I've often wondered, Rick, why the paper towel doesn't ignite with all the heat and the inflammability of the alcohol. Have you ever had one light up?
I don’t think they get that hot. I’ve never had one catch fire. I did almost set fire to a bowl once while microwave drying it.
If the low speed doesn't get as hot, it probably continues to take on more polish for longer before it cures. It is really obvious to me that the low speed side looks better, and I could see it before you said it.
+userunavailable3095 Thanks, uh...userunavailable3095! That makes sense. I'm planning to polishing at low speed in the future.
Hi Rick...just watched this video again as I just tried friction polish for the first time on my first lidded box...was finding at low speed I kept getting bad streaks...watched this and tried at high speed after getting the streaks out by using steel wool...high speed here resulted in a great finish on oak...I was using Mylands and will be making Cap'n Eddie's OB juice next...do you think thinning the Mylands a bit with DNA could help?...thanks for all your videos..learning lots!..
Generally, if you're getting streaks with friction polish, it's because you put on too much. Shellawax, a commercial friction polish, says the only mistake you can make is to put it on too heavily. I haven't used Mylands, but I doubt it's any different than any other. Cap'n Eddy's OB juice is the same formula that I use. Cap'n Eddy puts it on at a slow rpm. I like the higher rpm myself. Thanks for watching and commenting, Mike.
Hello, thank you for conducting these tests. This has been very helpful.
Ben
Thanks for commenting, Ben.
Would'nt an aerated pad under the paper do a better job? I'm just wondering, I have no experience. Thanks, Paul
It might. However, there 's not much polish dripped onto the applicator, and it might not soak up into the paper towel enough. I've never tried that.
Very helpful!! Thanks for the knowledge!
Thanks for watching, Justin.
Very thorough tests, thank you for taking the time to do this video. I use FP when turning pens when using some darker woods like Padauk or Babinga and it typically looks great, not so much on lighter woods like Tamarind or Maple. This helps, I have been thinking of trying sanding sealer after a 600 grit final sanding and then removing excess with 0000 steel wool and then applying the FP, to see if I can get a higher gloss deeper finish, have you had any experience with this method? Thanks!! Again great video!
I haven't tried that. I usually get a very high gloss with just the friction polish. I'd be interested in hearing your results from that. Thanks for commenting!
Thanks Rick, tried it yesterday on a pen I made from Olive wood and got a very nice shine, not quite as glossy as say a CA finish. Maybe more coats might have helped I don't know, but I did Mylands sanding sealer then the steel wool, then 4 coats of Mylands friction polish, one right after the other then then buffed down with a lint free cloth on a little higher speed. Worked well enough, but would still like to get a deeper looking glossier finish if possible. If we could attach pictures here I would.
And what is better on Maple? Thanks
helped me a lot .. thank you
Thanks for commenting, Jafa!
Rick, my workshop is cold in the winter. Will I get better results if I warm the friction polish before I apply it?
Yes, definitely. I believe the instructions for using shellac say it should be 60 degrees or more for application. Thanks for watching.
nice job! thank you for the video!
+Afer Etis Thanks, Afer!
How well does friction polish work on tool handles such as lathe tool handle?
I would not recommend friction polish for a tool handle. Friction polish is primarily shellac, which does not hold up well to moisture. I use an oil finish, such as walnut oil, or a wiping varnish, or just no finish at all.
Thanks Rick. Have been learning by watching you. Question: My finish does not appear as shiny as yours. Any suggestions?
Make sure your proportions of the friction polish are correct - 1 to 1 to 1. Use denatured alcohol, and not rubbing alcohol - I found that rubbing alcohol gave a duller finish. Make sure you’re applying pressure when you polish it - the applicator piece should get hot in your hand. Also, if the wood isn’t dry, I’ve found the friction polish looks good initially, but then dulls a good bit in just a few minutes. Hope that helps!
A pad made from, say, an old pair of jeans, and attached to a piece of wood would be as effective, and less dangerous to ones fingers!
This would also have the advantage of no possibility of leaving paper particles on the surface.
Good idea! Thank you.
I just use leather gloves. The glove fingertips get warm to the touch inside, but my fingers are fine.
Rick
great video thanks a bunch. Just two questions someone commented on using a sanding sealer I have heard that before what does it do?
also to get a brighter shine I have seen Cap'n Eddie use something like Renaissance wax would that help with a better shine as well as add more protection
A sanding sealer is really not necessary, but it won't hurt. Most sanding sealers are dilute dewaxed shellac. I have never used Renaissance wax. It's a microcrystalline wax, used by museums for preservation of fine wood items. I've bought some microcrystalline wax (not a brand name) to experiment with and make a video of, but haven't gotten to it yet.
Am getting lines in the finish. How can I get the finish without the swirl lines. It looks good and shiny but not a perfect look because of these lines. I've tried using blue shop towels to bounty paper towels. Slow speed Medium speed to High speed. Definitely gets hot. Using Mylands sanding sealer and Mylands Friction polish.Thanks
Lines in the finish usually means you’re putting on too much liquid. I’ve never used the Mylands products, but I imagine it’s exactly the same as the home-brew mix. About the only thing you can do wrong is tp put on too much. Sand it down again and try with less polish. Jere’s a link to a good site on using friction polish.
www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish10.shtml
@@RickTurnsWoodturning
I normally just take a paper towl and turn container to its side and apply a dab on there. I feel am not over doing it,but I might be. I may also need to store a little of the friction polish in a squeeze bottle to help control how much am applying to towel. Thanks for your help Rick. Any suggestions is much appreciated.
I have been using mylands friction polish but have been having issues with stealing on my finished piece. I’m running the lathe at 1200 and using a good amount of pressure with an old undershirt as an applicator. Any idea where I’m going wrong?
Is it not shining up? The only time I’ve had that problem was when the wood was damp.
GREAT VIDEO LESSON RICK REALY NICE THANK YOU.FROM DOUG
Thanks for watching, Doug.
Rick thank you
I just finished watching this video which is a very good video!!!! First I would like to say that you may want to rethink your reply to Rick's comment because wearing a glove at the lathe can be a safety hazard like you mentioned at the end of the video about paper towels and cloth towels. My second comment is that I am by no means an expert on friction polish but it is my understanding that basically the only thing the DNA does is thins out the polish and acts as drying agent, so wouldn't mixing up a small bit of polish without DNA give you what you are looking for for your test?
You're absolutely right about the gloves, Kurt. And about the alcohol in the polish. A few days ago, I did try putting on straight shellac, right from the can, 3lb cut, and got a somewhat sketchy finish. However, I didn't video that, and didn't think to repeat it for the video. Thanks for the suggestion!
where do u get ur container for the polish i havent been able to find any like it i no container doesnt matter just looks handy
I buy those bottles off Amazon, usually in boxes of twelve (so I don't have to buy them very often). I might pay $10-$15 for a box. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Hi Rick. Great video. I see in your videos you use carnuba wax + friction polish.
I have mixed results. Sometimes I “buff” the wax right off of use a paper towel too long. I also notice even minor handling removes the wax. Any suggestions?
You might want to try microcrystalline wax - it’s more resistant to handling.
Thank you Rick.
Thanks for watching, Scott.
Could you help me out with this. I’ve followed the recipe and application guidelines but within 2 hours of finishing 4 layers, the glossy shine reduces to a dull sheen.
Hi, Randy. I’ve had that happen too, but usually only when the wood was still fresh. I presume the moisture in the wood caused the problem, since shellac is damaged by water. If the wood is already dry, you might try putting on a coat of undiluted shellac, and after it dries, try the friction polish again.
RickTurns Thanks for the reply. On the next piece, I sealed it with a 2lb cut of shellac then sanded to 600. The same thing happened. Comparing the two, the one I sealed is virtually the same as the first one that wasn’t sealed. I’ll do up another piece with extra dry wood to see if moisture is the culprit. I might even try applying the polish to some PVC pipe to see if my recipe is the issue.
FYI...the polish on the PVC pipe turned out great so must be that the wood is too porous and needs to be sealed well. I’ll try a couple more coats of 2 lb shellac or Tung Oil before trying another application of polish.
Would you recommend a sanding sealer? Great video.
By chance, could you do that with shellawax AFTER the EEE-Ultra Shine? Thank you for the video. It was exactly what I was looking for.
You certainly could put shellawax over the eee-ultra shine, but that might be overkill. I believe the eee-ultra shine includes a friction polish with the polishing abrasive. Thanks for watching, Pedro.
I wouldn't use rag to polish for one simple reason - if a tissue catches it tears and falls apart. A rag won't and if you don't/can't let go...
You're right, of course. I'm slowly switching over to paper towels, but I still feel like I get a better shine from cloth.
I have tried the OB shine juice on a couple of bowls and I am real happy with the results. I only problem I am having is at the center of the inside of the bowl where I get rings/ridges. I have tried ramping up the speed (a lot) and I can't seem to get a smooth finish in the center. Any suggestions?
I’ve never had that exact problem, but rings and/or ridges generally mean you’ve got too much finish on. The center is spinning slower than the outer areas (linear speed), so you need to apply less finish in that area. Try sanding the center to remove the built-up finish, then just put a small amt on the cloth and apply that. After it is on, add a little bit more to the cloth and apply it. I hope that works for you, Tom.
@rickturns, Hi Rick, I've just discovered this polish, I have a piece I'd like to use this on but it already has danish oil on it, is it okay to apply this over danish oil finish? thanks
Hi, Barry. I don't think you'd have any problem putting any finish on top of an oil finish. Just make sure the oil finish is dry, which should only take a few days at the most. Friction polish can be made with danish oil or tung oil instead of boiled linseed oil, so there shouldn't be any problems.
Thanks Rick, I'm from Ireland and Shellac isn't east to come by, might have to settle for commercial friction polish.
Wait I'm curious about this. Are you guys suggesting you can make a friction polish using Danish Oil, Shellac and Denatured alcohol (1 part each)? If that's wrong, how you you mix a friction Danish polish? Thanks!!
What applications can you not use friction polish on
Hi, Jeneifer. I only use friction polish on small items. Shellac is not a durable finish at all. On bowls and vases I use either a penetrating oil finish or a varnish finish.
How long does it take for the heat. I just made my first pen. Using Sheila wax and it never really got hot. Warm but not hot
Depends on the speed and the pressure you apply. I turn the lathe speed up to around 2000 rpm for friction polish.
What’s the blue/grey stuff that’s caught in the grain?
That ‘s just sanding dust, I believe. When finish is put on, it effectively disappears. Thanks for watching, Alastair.
i found using a sponge between my hand and the paper (works for sanding too) helps not burn your hand :)
Sound like a good idea! Thank you, Vocu.
Thanks Rick! Great info!!
Thanks for watching!
You could try holding your paper towel with a piece of carpet under padding to help with the heat from friction
Yeah, if I had any sense, I'd wear a glove on that hand! Thanks for commenting.
What do you do with all of those bowls?
Mostly I give them away. I used to try selling them, and I did sell a few (but not enough to quit my day job). Thanks for watching, Pattie.
Nice job Thanks...
Thank you, Robert.
So slow to engrain, fast to smooth it (surface looked a lot smoother), and maybe a slow layer to build depth
Seems like it works well, either slow or fast. I still always do it fast though. Thanks for your comments, Fractal.
rick great tip.
Thanks, Robert!
You never mentioned where not to use the finish. i have a ruined project. the finish dissolved the stain on my project.
I've never used a stain on one of my turnings, although I have used an aniline dye on bowls. I only use friction polish on small items, such as weed pots and tea light holders. I'm surprised that a stain, which penetrates the wood, would be affected by putting shellac on top.
Requirement for friction polish: a good dose of masochism?
That, or asbestos fingers!
I love this guy's videos! Even if he was blowing smoke up everybody posterior, he's entertaining. However, Rick's techniques work. My two favorite characteristics? His shirts and the hermetically sealed woodshop...Plus he's a Sci-Fi nut. Beam me up, Rick.
Thank you, Bradley!
Use button lac in it's solid form, press against the wood and melt in and into the surface......this is the way it was done hundreds of years ago in India foot lathes.!!
That’s cool! I never would have thought of that. Thanks.
I wish I had seen this video years ago! Some thoughts, six years later:
Sanding along the axis (with the grain) is really only important with materials that have very fine or no grain, Ebony comes to mind, but acrylic or resin is what I find really benefit from axial sanding, end even then the difference is more how long does it take to get to the gloss. axial and radial sanding seems to be a little faster and more consistent for me, but I hate finishing. If course, I'm not putting friction finish on the man made materials, so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. bottom line is the smoother it is before you start polishing, the better the finish in the end. To that end, if its a coarse to medium grained material I sand up to 320 grit, apply a coat or two of sanding sealer, then work from 320 up to 1500. For some species, oak comes to mind, it helps to give a fine misting of water to raise the grain, let it dry completely, then apply the sanding sealer.
I sand down to 1000-1500 before polishing, put on two coats of polish, the first coat goes on with a soft bristled tooth brush scrubbing it in axially, then I buff it in pretty fast, 1700-2000 rpm getting it warm, then slow down for another coat of two. Here is where we differ. after that second coat is good and hard, say 15 or 20 minutes later, I then hit it with 1500-2000 grit paper, or a very fine purple or white Scotch-Brite™ pad, the one or two more coats as 750 (top end of the low speed range on my Rikon 70-220), then polish with either York micro-fine, or more likely these days white automotive polish, then a final buff with a clean cloth. Top it off with two or three coats of hard carnauba wax for depth, and there ya go.
I would really love to see you revisit this, and tell us what you've learned since then, what is the difference between friction polish and OB's Shine Juice? Have you tried straight linseed or tung oil? I do use boiled linseed and Tung oil on furniture projects but haven't used it on the lathe. Anyway, great video, thanks for making it!
Wow, you have a really long finishing protocol! I definitely wouldn’t have the patience for all that. Your turned pieces must look great! Frictions polish contains boiled linseed oil, as well as dilute shellac. Capt Billy’s OB Shine Juice is just that - friction polish. Thanks for watching, Wesley.
High speed polishes the rag instead of the wood
Thanks for watching, Joe.
Believe it or not, friction polish is great for bait in mouse traps...No joke.
Okay, I would never have thought that in a million years! Thanks for watching, Cliff.