How To Install Underground Downspout, French Drain, Pop-Up, Roof Drainage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2009
- Shows an underground downspout drainage system to remove roof rain water away from the building foundation into ground through a french drain with a lawn pop-up for overflow.
The underground downspout is buried out of sight. The french drain
prevents the roof drainage water from remaining in the underground downspout to freeze in colder climates. The pop-up releases excess water onto the ground to avoid back-ups. A debris filter prevents clogging of the system
You can order the kit direct from my site -
mrhardware.com/store/#!/Under...
Kit includes the debris filter and the strainer. You can easily get the PVC pipe locally. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I had few sleepless nights, worrying that any water trapped at the end might be frozen and clog the whole pipe. This problem is easily alleviated by attaching a T- sect at the end, as you showed. Thank you so much for sharing.
We lost Bailey 2 years ago, what a great dog.
I would have never thought of using a T at the end. Thanks for the tip.
this is the best way to install these.i did mine last year from your plans and they have been working so good thanks for the help
thanks i used your design and am expecting rain all this week,im excited to see it work.
Thanks for the video. I am going to reinstall my system using your suggestions....at least when it stops raining. Steve in North Carolina.
Wow. T at the and is so simple and smart at the same time. Solved my problem here in freezing Chicago. Thanks
Thanks for the ideas you have shared here.
This is the way I do my drains, no complaints so far it works perfectly, I live on southeast texas mainly sand around this area
just did this today. your video helped a ton! thanks so much.
Nice video. I love the dog bringing his ball to play!
Thanks for making this video, i watch a few with that crappy corrugated pipe. Glad to see someone using PVC. I like the at the termination point and your vertical pea gravel drain. All good stuff.
What's wrong with corrugated pipes??
TH-cam comments are a depressing area to visit. Just my 01:41 into this, I am stopping to thank you for taking time out to record and share this video, despite the 'naysayers' and critiques. I'm not sure what all the video has in it yet but so far I'm impressed. I'm wavering back and forth on doing this project but I'm leaning towards doing it now!
Thanks
I agree. These post are very practical indeed.
have a great day.
Having someone attempt this for me after seeing this. . Thanks for the idea and demonstration :)
Thank you working on doing this to my own house and you have added in my research.
Very helpful system. Thank You!!!
The best part of this video is the dog wanting to play with the ball. Video still informative though.
Funny, here in Michigan we freeze w.the best of them. I have 5 on Harsens Island, (almost all swamp) and thanks to the 'French Drain' they haven't frozen in over 10 years! Plus there are 2 at a home I built in 2008 and they are working fine. 25 miles N of Detroit.
Mr. Hardware
Thanks. Good information. And the dog is a hit as well ;)
I understand how to do it now. Thank you!
LOL love the curious dog stepping all over the equipment!
I've put in about seven or eight of these now, they work great, even in clay.
Great video! Thank you
LOL the doggy :D. awesome vid thanks!
I have 3 on my Island cottage over 15-yrs old and they still work perfectly. Someday I may have to dig up the 4" tee and pea stone once they get saturated w/ silt. Fortunately I did not glue the tee on the pipe.
Love the water tip!!!!
Just installed this system at my parents house....works great...no more water in the basement!!!! Thank you so much Mr Hardware....got any tips for a flow well for standing water?
Blair, I have recommended this to every home owner I meet and I have this system on 10 houses of my own (I just added it to a house in Forestville). The system WORKS. As an engineer and home inspector who loves simple solutions, this design is elegant. My only modification I do is to use a 16" tall inlet to add more pressure to the discharge side. I glue all my joints. My system on the Lexington house is 120' long and runs the south side of my house and collects a total of 6 downspouts. It is beautiful to watch it flow water when it pours...-GV
I thought I was the only knucklehead to go out in the rain to watch these things work. I did multiple inlets on a 160' run so I used 6" pipe to handle all the water. That system was glued all the way but my short 10 to 20' runs I don't glue the tee because more than once I've gone back for one reason or another. I have started using the popup (not strainer) around maple trees so the helicopters can purge out.
Thanks for the video - Where do I purchase the prefilter and the drain cap?
I put in a similar system but do have the elbow with the pop up? I live in Illinois. Do I need to worry about water left in the pipe freezing in the winter? The pipe is not far underground. Thanks.
Hi What kind of PVC pipe you used. I am only able to get SCH 40 4inch 10 ft, that is over kill i think so
The black filter that you mention is a stainer, suppose that fills up with leaves and things. Can it be removed and cleaned out?
Does the pea gravel have to come up to the bottom of the T? I'm about 4 inches from the bottom of the T... should I add more?
I couldn't find the angled debris filter so I used a flat one for now. I guess my problem is obvious as my drain pipe was slightly off so water got everywhere. Pipe filled, overflow worked. Pipe is angled correctly. Pea stone hole only about 1 1/2 feet. Will it be enough to get the angled filter and position downspout correctly. Will the pressure force excess water out of overflow or will I have a pool under the spout. I did notice that water level was at top of elbow, but did go down at times
makes great sence !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice job Man.. I would Do the same thing for a Flooded backyard, like a Hexagon running out to different Drainage rock.(6 Drains 4 Pickups). i like what you did but i would of bought a few More T's and ran a Few(maybe 2-3) More 4in PVC out about 15-20 ft Then Dig down Add rock.. That would be the Ultimate Drainage..
Freezing pipe and cracked cement guy, did you dig a post hole filled w/peastone at the termination of the tee? Did you us a tee or one of those elbows w/the flapper? Those force the installer to keep the system shallow and have poor drainage.
When you dig the trench, have 2 tarps beside the trench one for the sod and the other for the dirt. That way the sod doesn't get buried and also the left over dirt can be removed so it doesn't bury parts of the existing lawn
On my second one, I'll do this
+Corey Lapka
I totally agree, but if I only have 1 tarp I tarp the dirt side, just be gentle flipping the sod over.
yes, we have many sumps using the underground downspouts. We push sending the sump water outside because many people direct their sump into the sanitary drain in the basement. Adding water into the sanitary sewer causes overloading to municipal sewer systems during rainy weather. When you are near a body of water it usually adds to the pollution into the lakes.
When I use an underground downspout to handle my sump I dig a much larger drain pit in the yard. The more often my pump runs, the bigger the pit. Usually 24" x 24" is enough. I consider a post hole a French Drain, and a big pit we call a Dry Well.
This is now a 2pc kit, not a 4pc due to the different schedules of pvc pipe.
When did you cut a piece of PVC to top off the T? Did you cut it off the 10' piece? Is it necessary?
I use this method without a problem. But mr. hardware needs to get some closed toe footwear
I've read a lot of reviews on the debris filter saying it does fine in light rains, but in heavier rains water splashes outside onto the ground - are there any solutions to this?
nothing like flooding your driveway in the winter?
This is a great video! Thank you for showing it. I am doing this same thing via the weekend. However I do have a question. I am going down a slight hill in the back yard. How would I angle the fitting from the gutter and or drain grate. My grade is probaly at least a 20 degree angle going down. Your's is perfect if I was going out flat in the yard but if I did that in this senario all the pipe would be exposed and above the ground.
They make 22 degree elbows, or I have used rubber plumbing connectors to make smaller angles
Thanks for the great video. I loved the dog! I just did one exactly like yours 2 days ago with the following exceptions (only because I overkill everything): I used schedule 35 pipe and dug 32" with post hole digger. It's been wet lately and rained again shortly after completion. One thing that really surprised me Blair; water is standing in the Tee about 4 inches from the top of pipe the day after it rained I guess I expected it to absorb into the ground more quickly. However, I'm assuming using the post hole digger would really compact the soil on the sides and bottom. This concerns me in the cold winter months. Any thoughts?
The post hole with pea stone in it has prevented any of mine, over 10 now, from freezing. I must say I re-did one tee I did years ago (15or more) and extended 6' to prevent water from coming back to my crawl space.
thanks for the video.. do i need to put the over flow or can i just drain into the p gravel . also is 10 ft the min. you can extend the pipe or can i get away with going shorter..
If you want to use only pea stone you'll need enough to hold a rainstorm worth of water... not very possible unless you are on a hill or next to a drainage ditch. My purpose of this is to keep a basement or crawl space dry, so installing the outlet too close to the building will allow the water to travel back to the house. Installed too close, not worth the bother.
I am in the process of doing this same type of system with a a T-fitting like Mr Hardware but instead of a narrow hole with pea gravel I will be digging a big oval trench/hole lined with landscape fabric and filled with drainage gravel.
Perfect, Blair
Are those steel toed flip flops? Nice job!!!!
+Joe Guzman - yeah man - a tidy workplace is a safe workplace - ah crap, I just tripped over the damn dawg !!!!!
+Dave Tonks
bury it and you won't.
LoL!
Hi! Thanks for your video, just installed the drainage system similar to this video, but when it was raining last night & still it is raining very lightly now. So my question is that water is filled half of the T but not coming out & staying still. Maybe flowing slowly down as we have put gravel below the T as you have shown, but should the water stay still in the T or should flow & no water is seen at the end?
What usually happens is that it takes a certain amount of rain to fill the pipe and the stone below the tee. Plus the gravel and the earth below are absorbing water at the same time. Once the soil is saturated from that particular rainfall water will flow out of the strainer and out onto the ground. (which has pitch so water flows away from the house) Then after the rain the water will absorb through the stone and into the ground leaving an empty system until the next rain.
Mr. Hardware, I enjoyed watching this video and I have watched another of your videos as well where you replaced a drain that wasn't working and you installed this system. I noticed that you used PVC pipe for this project and was wondering if corrugated pipe would work just as well. I live in Michigan too, so we would have the same weather conditions.
Smooth pvc pipe is less likely to clog or retain debris than corrugated. It is also easier to keep straight and maintain pitch while installing.
@@MrHardware1 Okay, thanks for your feedback!
i live in the north where it freezes ,so all i do is put a cup of water solftner salt down my drains ,,,,,works every time keeps my under ground drains clear of ice
that will back up water if frozen ,plus i throw salt on my roof so i don't get back up leaks from ice dams works very well .
Been at this for almost two decades. This is the absolute best way. I confess that I skip the leave drain sometimes, if there not a bunch of trees around. I got away from the pop ups the hard way. By replacing about twenty after they froze shut. This way you can lift the drain and clean it. If somehow it breaks, replace it with a $3 grid. The whole industry is unregulated. The job I'm doing tomorrow is where the homebuilder ran two downspout Darin's uphill to a pop up. One of them fills until it floods back to the corner of the home and DRENCGES the crawlspace, also building an encapsulation with a dehumidifier. 12 mil GuardianLiner with felt underlay and AprilAire 1820. Fogging for mold. All for $4210.00
you know what else helps under it all to help settling, gravel.
I liked your video. I live in a manufactured house. The drainage has been going on for a while. Rain water from my house, neighbors house and I'm at the bottom of a hill that has a paved road. So the water stops at my place. I was thinking a 2x3 ft. hole with gravel and perforated pipes. And a 3' hole with gravel 10 ft. from the house. What do you think, will this be the best solutions?
If I owned the property I would build a burm infront of the house to direct the water around the house. Then a drain inside the burm in an arch around the house and finishing down from the house to carry water away.
I have 3 downspouts on one side of the house. With this system, can you connect 3 downsports to a single PVC pipe? Also where can I find the first part that filters out crap that goes right but the downspout?
When there are three downspouts you should make sure there is enough discharge area at the outlet so the water flows away from the house. Another consideration is that there is not too much roof area, hence too much water flow for one 4" pipe. I also make a dry-well instead of just a post hole under the discharge tee. I dig a 2' x 2' x 2' pit, lined with landscape fabric and cover the stone up to the tee. We sell the filters and strainers on mrhardware.com, or you can call the store, 586-776-9532, and we'll ship call in orders for any party you may want.
Can you put a bubbler on top of the T, and have a smaller outlet on the bottom so that the bulk of the water waters the lawn rather than just going underground. I could probably get by without the pea gravel and drywell as I have ver sandy soil. I see the benefit of having The T for drainage in the winter.I also saw another vid on installing a bubbler that just used an elbow was concerned about standing water and freezing. I am also a Michigander.
If your sandy soil can absorb tons of water you don't need the pea stone. As long as the moist sand will not allow the water to flow back to the house there is no need to restrict the bottom of the tee. Plus a smaller opening in the tee will be easier to clog. I prefer the green strainer grate over the 'popup' because of cost. Why use something costing over $10 when a $4 item works as well?
For all the naysayers that feel this is a bad system. I just moved a tee over 5' so I could place a berm over the existing tee and strainer. It was 15 years old, I did clean the maple seeds out of it every 3 years (1 1/2 handfulls each time) and it was still draining dry days after every rainfall.
Mr. Hardware don’t you love all the nahsayers...99.9% of them have never installed a system 😂😂😂
Does the downspout drainage how to video process work if a sidewalk is between the downspout & the anticipated French drain location. Any changes to the process?
No, I use this under several sidewalks myself. Make sure to use solid pipe, not perforated
How often does the drain hole in the PVC get clogged from the debris/goop that flows down it?
I pop the strainer every couple of years and am suprised how little muck is in there.
Curious that i installed 3" corrugated pipe 60' feet long at the end of it sits approx 1' under ground could I use about a 1' pipe verticle upright to let the water discharge or will that be to high for the water to rise to let it drain like how you done though yours is much lower pipe going upright, 1' maybe to high that it may cause the rain water to back flow from where the water enters in?
If the outlet is 1 inch or so lower than the inlet then water, which seeks to be level, will come out of it no matter how deep the trunk line is. A stone drain pit at the end of the run helps disperse accumulated water.
How deep should the trench be in southern wisconsin on a shaded part of the house. The freezing worries me.
For me it has not been the depth of the pipe but the size of the stone french drain keeping it dry after a rain. I'm outside of Detroit, deep frost here and none of my pipes have frozen and broken. Once in a while one will freeze but they have all thawed out without any damage. Once an ice 'bar' came down the downspout and cracked the debris filter. Not bad for havin g over 10 of these on 3 different homes.
Where does the water go to?
@zeroturn03. I see your point and you are so correct. If it were just he, then who would care; but if one as he who is trying to teach and instruct, why could he not teach the basic things first regarding the proper safety work attire?
if the gravel does not come up to the bottom of the trench it may fill with dirt and reduce the life of the 'french drain'.
Hi, great video - will this work with clay rich soil?
Yes, when in doubt make a bigger hole w more stone.
Would this system work with a popup?
Yes, although I don't recommend them because they usually are not over a draining tee. I want the drain-ability of a tee over a posthole filled w/gravel. You could use the popup on a tee, just don't use the elbow w/the small drain hole.
What are your thoughts on doing this in cold weather climates (Wisconsin)? I fear it will fill, freeze, and crack. But I am trying to get the roadside of our home looking better. Traditional gutters look bad IMO. Thanks for the vid!
You need a pea stone (or other open stone) pit deep enough to drain in a half day during the summer. Here outside of Detroit it is clay so we dig 36 to 42" post holes, lined with fabric and filled with a stone up to the bottom of the trench. 8" diameter standard post hole digger, clam shell or auger type.
@@MrHardware1 hmmmm. And no freeze up/cracking during winter? My concern is it getting frozen up the pipe towards foundation and cracking, thus having water run down basement wall...
@@artob I guess that would depend on your climate. We rarely get frost deeper than 8" on a lawn. the roads drive frost deeper but in 20 years or longer none of my, now totaling 8, have frozen or cracked. The only change for me is when I moved one of the originals I now line my holes w/ landscape or geo-fabric before I dump in the stone.
Mr. Hardware g
I have a down spout that comes into our front garden which in turns floods our payment along sidewalk that runs parallel to the garden. So how do I stop it with a correct drainage system
You may need to tunnel under the sidewalk to discharge the water so it drains out past and away from the building.
Is the long 'thin wall' pipe perforated? The pipe you have does not look like it leaks the water out along the way. Does it? Please state the type of pipe. What is thin wall ?
No, the 10' of pipe needs to be solid so water is carried that far from the house and basement. Perforated pipe will leach water next to the basement which is what I want to prevent. Most supply houses sell 4" pvc pipe thick wall (sec 40) and thin wall (sec 30). Unless I'm going under a driveway or running through a 'dangerous' area I use thinwall. Thinwall (sec 30) pipe is the same I.D. as thickwall, only less expensive and lighter.
Please note this: We are now lining the post hole with landscape fabric before filling w/peastone. This is adding life to the peastone by preventing soil from filling in the post hole.
What are your thoughts on doing this in cold weather climates (Wisconsin)? I fear it will fill, freeze, and crack. But I am trying to get the roadside of our home looking better. Traditional gutters look bad IMO. Thanks for the vid!
@@artob I have a similar system to this for a sump pump in Minnesota. No T at then end, instead just a J that goes up and all the water is released to the surface. Traditional gutters place all the water on your surface. I understand the reasoning to use pea stone, but for this area I feel its just another step, that really isn't necessary.
@@brianrossow117 that's wild. Does it not run much in the winter? I would think it would freeze over at the surface over the course of winter. Our sump runs during winter sometimes...
if I want to do this for all my downspouts around the house, is 10ft of pipe long enough for every spout?
The outlet tee must be at a point where when water exits it will drain away from the house. I’ve been able to go shorter when I exited on a hill and I had to go longer when the grade was too level and I wanted to be sure water didn’t come back to my foundation.
Where did you get the cut piece of pvc to top off the tee?
I was actually doing several installs, so I had a spare pipe to cut 4" off of. When I would install a single unit I would cut a foot off the pipe for this purpose. Sorry I didn't include this in the video, we have to keep them short. Blair
:awesome:
Is there a way to do this without the debris filter? The way my downspout is set up, it would be in the way by the main-entrance of the garage?
Most landscapers do not use the debris filter, too $$ and they will not be the ones to clean out dead leaves at the strainer. If you don't have a lot of leaves in the gutter you can direct connect, no problem. We sell the parts at mrhardware.com
Hello Mr. Blair Gilbert do you still sell the underground downspout kit you mentioned on your video, how to install underground downspout kit. Thanks.
The kit, smaller than in the video, is the black filter and the green strainer only. Pipe schedules vary across the nation so the pipe and tees get purchased locally
Contact Gilbert’s, 585-776-9532 or purchase at mrhardware.com
Can drainage gravel be used instead of pea stone?
sure, I've used all kinds of stone for drainage under the tee.
Quick question, why not use a pop up instead of the grate? Wouldn't the pop up be less likely to clog since it closes when not under pressure?
Clog is from the roof. And my popup clogs also… I don’t have a perfect outlet … yet
What did you use to dig the trench?
A standard round point shovel. The one we all have. If I was doing this for a living I would also have a trenching shovel that makes smoothing the bottom of the trench easier.
Anybody ever do this? Does it work well? Thanks in advance for any responses.
Can't I use a popup drain emitter instead of the grate filter at the end? I mean still have the T connector to let water coming from the gutter spout flow down into the pea stone, but using a popup emitter would have certain advantages, like not letting mosquitos come in and breed inside the pipe, and not letting as much debris get in.
I actually use them in a few of my jobs. They self clean small amounts of debris better than the strainer does.
You now say dig the hole deeper and line with weed block fabric correct?
Deeper for clay soil or a large roof area draining to one downspout. The fabric keeps the soil out of my stone bed. Yup.
How much deeper for clay soil? live in the south so we have that orange-red clay.
Would this setup work well for a sump pump drain?
cdonns87 that’s why I’m watching this. To make sure the sump pump I plan on getting installed, will have a place to go. The basement waterproof company said they will dig a pipe underground 10 feet in the back yard and attach the sump pump to it. Does that sound right ??
At the point the water would escape through the strainer at the far end due to high water volume, wouldn't it have already backed up to the elbow by the downspout?
The strainer should be some inches below the bottom of the filter and
it will be full of water at the end of a rain. That is the reason for
the French drain below the tee. In a few days all the water will be
gone. Also why I recommend to dig bigger French drains when the downspout handles large roofs or is in cold harsh climates.
Where would I find a debris filter?
mrhardware.com or call 888-mrhardwa
We'll ship in usa and take all credit cards
Do you cement any of the joints, such as where the pipe meets the T?
Robert bud , I only cement the elbow at the house. Never the t because I may be cleaning or re pea stone-king in the future.
so all that water from that downsput goes in the T then goes in the soil and causes more problems?
They don't cause problems at any of the 8 at my home and cottage. The water disperses into the ground and does not make a sink-hole or any soft spots at the tee. You do need a bag or more of pea-stone gravel or the like to allow the water easy passage into the ground so the system does not hold water and cause the pipes to freeze in the winter.
@@MrHardware1 when that T pipe fills that water goes away from the house
what the middle piece between the grate and the T?
A piece of the 10' pipe, to connect from the tee to grade, the grass.
I am trying to find this system online and I am not finding anything. web link?
Try here, Blair. mrhardware.com/store/#!/Underground-Downspout-Kit/p/15106949/category=0
Is there any reason to use a 6 inch line? A person gave me an estimate and they were using 6inch PVC.
That is a HUGE expense that I have yet to need on any of my 12 current underground systems. I say never to bury less than 4" and use smooth not corrugated pipe.
You need to calculate the amount of water vs the slope of the pipe to ensure 4" is enough capacity.
What about those flip flops? They come with the kit too?!?
Sorry, it is too hard to find steel toed flip flops. ;0)
Mr. Hardware 😂😂😂
I'm not here to say there's anything fundamentally wrong here, just a few suggestions... especially for people who's environment might be different than Mr. Hardware's.
1. The pea-gravel (or any cheap stone you chose) works in the hole by providing space between the aggregate to hold water, and to keep the hole from collapsing. Its only effective if those voids between the stones remain open so I'd suggest you line the post hole with a good weed barrier to keep silt from the surrounding dirt from migrating into the posthole (filling the voids around the stone). There's also a 'sock' made specifically to cover french drains that would probably be really convenient for this applications. Fill the sock with stone to desired length, close top off and cut to length, dump it into the post hole... easy peasy.
2. if you get a lot of rain in your area and/or your soil doesn't drain well, you can use a buried void (not filled with stone) to hold more water than a stone-filled hole, As long as that void is surrounded by porous walls, the water it holds will eventually drain into the ground.
Some home centers sell 'dry wells' for this, which are essentially sump liners with lids so they can be buried. You might have to drill your own drainage holes, and remember to attach an overflow out the top.
You can also use anything that's rigid enough to keep the void from collapsing and resistant to rot & corrosion so it'll last while buried. fiber-reinforced milk crates wrapped in quality woven fiber weed-blocking fabric will work though you'll want to make sure they're well wrapped so the dirt doesn't push the fabric through the spaces in the crates (you might want to add a more rigid screen layer too). One nice thing is they're cheap AND Modular, so you can add as much capacity as you want in fairly small blocks. Me,... I've got a 5-gal keg around that I held too long to get a deposit back on so I'm going to drill some small holes in it.. wrap it.. then bury it under french drain for some extra capacity.
3. The soil quality will have a lot to do with whether or not this will freeze or not. In the video the soil looks pretty sandy and I'm guessing it drains well. Remember, even if the ground is frozen, the water that makes is down there in the winter (likely during a thaw cycle) will make some penetration if the frozen ground isn't also saturated (that is, if it's not already a solid block of ice). It takes time for even cold liquid water to freeze because the change of state (from liquid to solid) requires an additional movement in energy in addition to what's required to simply lower it's temp. You can pour 34-degree water through 20-degree soil and some of the water will drain through before it finally freezes up.
If you're worried about lots of released water in your freeze/thaw cycles, or if your soil's inability to drain during thaw cycles, burying deeper isn't a terrible idea, nor is using a 4" to 6" coupler below grade to lay a larger underground pipe... to give you more in-line capacity.
Schmartist Munky holy crap. This made me dizzy 🤪😂🤪
I like to use catch basins then discharge from there
Are they water-tite? Do they drain by gravity? How close to the house do you put them? Blair
@@MrHardware1 yes sir. I put 12 inch catch basins under each down spout then connect solid 4" PVC pipe sloped all properly, tied together, then discharged by the street via pop-up. I know you don't like popups but my home fortunately sits much higher than the street so I have plenty of fall.
Oh and thanks for the tip about the pea stone. Although I do have a pop-up I took your advice and dig deep under the pop-up and filled it with river rock. The. Drilled two 1/8" holes in the lowest point of the 90 that connects the popup so the water doesn't just sit in there and breed mosquitos. I live in South East Louisiana.
@@LichaelMewis Hey, as long as it works and will do so for years is all that matters. Blair
Where can we get the filter
Go to mrhardware.com and order from there. Blair
I handle standing water no closer than 15 ft. from my building. Once that distance or greater I dig post holes, (prox. 6 to 8" in diameter) as deep as possible, up to 8' deep. (ouch!) Then I fill them to the top w/pea stone. A group of these, about 5 of them, about 5' apart will dry up most back yards. It may not contain the flooded backyard during spring floods but you will be the last of your neighbors to flood, and the first to dry up.
Blair,So in this instance, you are simply digging the holes along the low point in the yard and filling them with pea stone?
Yes, about 5 of them, about 5' apart, as deep as possible. I would stop once I discovered bog or something other than clay.
I use an auger style post hole digger which is built out of 3/4" pipe. All you need is a pipe coupling and a 3' piece of pipe, maybe 2 if you need to get to China.
Hello Mr. Gilbert’s pro Hardware do you still sell your Underground Down spout Kit # SKU000010 I bought this Kit from you September 19, 2015. Thanks!👍
We sure do
Now how could I convert that so I can have water come on top in winter so I don’t freeze the line?
Put a larger French drain with more stone underneath the tee
@@MrHardware1 yes but what happens when it snows and I get two feet of snow on top of pop up?
@@patscar7869 the water should absorb into the stone french drain below. Too much excess and the water could build up around the debris filter but that is very rare.
nazzel!!!
it seems like having the pea stone may cause a sink hole as years go by
+TE S
Actually the pea stone become overcome by soil and don't drain well after 15 years or so. I don't have any sink holes but my first underground pea stone was saturated with soil and didn't drain well. Now I make the post hole deeper when I'm in soft soil or receiving multiple downspouts.
+Blair Gilbert Thanks Blair.
where can this kit be purchased?
+mackendw
the kit is now just the wedge filter and the strainer. The pipe, ell, tee and pea stone you get locally.
Mrhardware.com has a few items in the products tab.
Thx Blair. I did most of the install on the weekend. one of the kits and pipes ran down a side hill from the house. Ended up having to get a 4" PVC connector for the solid pipe to flexible downspout so I could negotiate the hill. A fun job though. Trench digger near killed me. :)
for those looking for connectors, see: www.fernco.ca/plumbing/flexible-couplings they have a great selection of coupling connectors. I used the 1070-44.
We carry most Fernco connectors in stock, however I've yet to use one on this system.
No, just steel woven straps. ;0}