Your are Using The Dwarf II Filter Wrong
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2024
- How to get the best images with the Dwarf II telescope, and not use the Dwarf II filter wrong. How to use the Dwarf II Ir Cut filter and get sharp stars and good astrophotography images. Without using these settings correctly you will end up with blurry images and bloated stars. Learn how to use the Ir Cut filter and Ir Pass settings in the Dwarflab app to get better astrophotography results.
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Thank you so much for this information. The effort of your testing is greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much. Was hard work to make all the tests, but i am glad that i will help the astro comunity get better results
Thank you for the excellent Dwarf 2 vids, really helpful for us newbies
Your welcome! Great you enjoyed watching
Thank you so much for doing this. Great tutorial.
Thanks for the appreciation. If you have time You can share with other friends that are using the Dwarf 2
Brilliant,thank you for your time making this video,just subscribed to your channel
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed the video tutorial
Thanks!
Hello and Welcome! And thank you if you used Super Thanks, it shows me a 10$ label near the comment
Great video!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for the thorough testing! I can’t wait for another clear night to try IR cut with Orion!!
By the way, I noticed an unexpected artifact in many of your images taken with the UHC filter. It’s a small parallelogram lighter patch in the lower half of many of those images. Maybe a reflection from an external light source somewhere like a window it street lamp? Do you know the source of that? Looks like you successfully edit it out for you beautiful final images.
Great work!!
Thank you very much! I think those artifacts with the uhc are from a neighbor light
I am curious but too lazy to attempt to try right now, but I am wondering if there is a chance that by using auto focus AFTER making a change to the filters would make any difference to these results. I have spent a few nights fighting clouds trying to improve my stacks of M31, but I have not been able to beat my own best image, which pales in comparison and quality to yours. Also, I am still relatively new to the Dwarf 2 as well as astrophotography in general so I have been learning as I go. The D2 is a quality piece of kit, but it is still an ongoing project needing future improvements. When things do go right, the Dwarf can really bring out some amazing photos. Thank you for the lesson on how to use these filters correctly. 😊
Hello. Unfortunately i have nt equipment any dilters that night so i am not sure. Whorst case might auto focus again once after you put the filter on and select new target. Glad you enjoy the dwarf 2 and loved the video!
I remembered the IR cut is the same as ordinary camera's and not good at Ha signal, thus I always us IR pass with most nebula. I think I should try IR cut next time.
Normaly the Ir cut for astronomy cameras will allow the ha signal like you sayw in my video, the ha light from the nebulas are very noticeble in the images
Great stuff! Would you consider showing the best way to process stacked images with just the tools on a smartphone? Not all of us want to dive into processing programs. Thanks!
Thank you very much. I do not have many processing apps on my phone. Maybe photoshop express. But the amount of editing is limited however can make the live stacks captured with dwarf 2 look better
Nice work. I'm learning this lesson not with a Dwarf but with a new ASI533MCPRO without an IR cut filter. Massive star bloat. Combining the starless image with the same area taken with a Nikon camera to fix the bad stars.
Glad it helped! You should have an ir cut filter or other fitlers that have ir cut incorporated for ecample the optolong l enhance. for my mono camera i use curently the optolon lk quad enhance for luminance. my zwo 224mc color does not ahve ir cut so there i usualy use an ir cut filter 1.25 inch
Thks for the tuto ! what was your binning setting? 2x2 or 1x1 for your picts?
Thank you! Most of the images were with bining 1x1 and all the images side by side that i used for comparison were 1x1
Thank you fort this great tutorial! Just a question: combining starless and star mask images from different sessions (even if very close in time) won't cause some disalignment? I usually use Siril, I have to try!
You are welcome. If the time periods are different and you.just use two stacks.then you need to manually align in programs like.photoshop. if you use individual files then you need to stack all images and then go in the process folder and copy the images that are already aligned with the sharp stars then you can stack those and make the star mask of the sharp stars. I think it is simple to make a 2 or 3 min stack at the beginning like 10 photos with ir cut for the stars then continue with ir pass for the long plan if you want to combine them and having same alignment without spending extra time to solve alignment issues. But with older images i think that is the workflow that i described at the beginning
@@GalaxyArtMedia I use individual files and align them in Siril. So your advice is to stack all images (those with IR pass and IR cut) together, but I don't understand how to choose from the process folder just those with sharp stars. Do you mean "visually" choose them? Or is there a way to pick them by their numbers (r_pp_light_00xxx)?
Do you recommend to use "IR cut sharp stars" method even when using an external filter (Neodymium, Duo Band or others)? Thank you again!
Merci Beaucoup pour cette vidéo..
My pleasure! Glad it helped !
Hi i watched the video and thank you for the effort. However I am confused. Is the IR pass setting the on and off in the app? It says Infared or cut? The IR cut is the filter on or off on the lens?
Ir cut means the Ir cut filter is on and cuts the infrared light
Thank you for clarification
@@ChuckBigbie your welcome 🤗
Would it be the same result with dual band filters instead of uhc filter? I have been using IR pass with ZWO DB filter on emission nebulae..have not tried using IR Cut but after this video, perhaps I should?
Normally the dualband filter has also ir cut and then you should leave ir pass enabled on the dwarf so there will not be another filter on top of the sensor. Best to check to be sure though
I use IR-pass when using my Optilong l-Enhance dual band filter and it seems to work well for me.
You sold me, will use cut, now just need the damn sky to open up!
First night here with clear sky in weeks
I would like to capture the full eclipse here in the US coming in April using the Dwarf II. How do I handle the changes in brightness as the sun becomes progressively blocked by the moon, then viewing and recording the fully eclipsed sun, followed by the period when the sun becomes unblocked.
I think there two ways to do it, just go with the default settings fro soalr imaging like 1/200 gain 0, or select gain 0 and auto exposure. then start the timelapse
@@GalaxyArtMedia thanks! Do you think that the autoexposure will readjust during the full eclipse portion so that we can see the corona and the craters, etc? Or will it be a yellow sundisk with a black hole in the middle?
Hi. Normaly it will adjsut by itself, but i will ask a friend who plans to capture the eclipse also witht he dwarf II and see how he will do it and get back to you. Glad you joined the channel membership! Will upload more of my latests astrophotography data today or tommorow
@@GalaxyArtMedia I am also interested in the ability to use the Dwarf for the eclipse. Any update would be greatly appreciated. Nice Video!
@@lukes8495 thank you i suggested to dwarflab that they could make an eclipse mode. But currently the way is to set the normal settings for the sun and if you want to capture the corona at the end you can change the settings manually at that point of the video timelapse.
Thats great if you stack the fits, but what about those of us who just use the PNG image and process on phone. Binning 1X1 gives sharper images also
If you process only on phone then you need to decide between ir cut and ir pass
@@GalaxyArtMedia Thats true, interesting, as many DSLR owners get rid if that ir cut filter to allow more detail, so giving opposite advice. Interesting result, With Seestar has a less aggressive IR cut filter and in most cases remains on. But it auto selects when it needs to Duo filter. But assume the D2 has an aggressive IR cut filter, so yes next time will try wth IR cut and my ZWO Duo filter
It mybe possible Dwarflabs set it up like this by auto turning off the IR cut as many will just process on the phone, but would be nice if they gave us the option to not turn off the IR cut, maybe you could send them your findings and an open to leave IR cut on and not auto turn off. Maybe a suggesting to recommend when to use the required filter. Thats the beauty of Seestar, makes the right filter choice automatically. Duo filter either on of off depending in object@@GalaxyArtMedia
@@dennisrogers6786 it seems the seestar50 stopped making the filter choice after the last firmware update.
Can I make a thumbnails for you?
Sorry no monet no to invest
I sent Dwarf lab a note asking them not to call the irpass filter on dwarf 3 “Astro” … I think this will confuse people yet again. They’re calling the ir cut filter “Vis” and that is what you would want to use to image galaxies and reflection nebula…. And then of course use narrowband for emmision nebula. You never want to use infrared pass, so “Astro” is a very bad name to call it
Thanks for the feedback. I suspect nthe ir pass is more like a more flexible ir cut that may perform excellent for all dso objects. I will see after i will be able to test it
@@GalaxyArtMedia thanks.. I would feel a little more confident except I have seen dwarf lab recommend ir pass to people over the past year over at the fb group… which makes me think they really may have a lack of understanding for why infrared and visible light need to stay separated, they are fairly new to the world of astronomy themselves. If “Astro” mode is full pass, they should at least just rename it pro mode or something with the verbiage that it the mode you want to be in when adding your own external filters
@@GalaxyArtMedia I mostly just think they should perhaps take a hard look and make a decision before launch on the 30th… my main goal here is to keep confusion down to a minimum, a name like Astro definitely will make people think they should use that filter when not shooting emmision nebula. In fact if Astro is full pass then users should be using vis instead… so you can see where my concern is
@@mercury7 will not be full pass. My information from dwarflab that this it pass filter should be use all the time for astro and the focus will not be affected like in the dwarf 2 filter but increase the sensitivity
@@GalaxyArtMedia so if that’s true then does than mean dwarf 3 will not have daytime infrared capability like the d2 did? That was actually one of the reasons j bought d2, I would put an infrared filter on it to shoot landscapes, however the panorama function never worked right so I did not do it much. Anyway I guess I will have to see if dwarf lab will provide band pass numbers to fully understand what they are doing… please post back if you hear anything else
You are right the images are better using IR CUT....
Glad you found the tutorial helpful