I really like that your channel doesn't ignore the beginners with a DSLR. So many astrophotography channels focus on high end specialized astro cameras that are out of reach for many people.
I don't understand why would someone dislike this amazing video which is absolutely free , I watched both ads in starting of video till end , I subscribed your channel because you explain each and every part in so detail it helps so much , thank you for sharing Love from India :)
Yay now in 2021 everything is happy no more dislikes on TH-cam videos the world doesn't like negativity so now its taking the first steps to get rid of it!
Nico really deserves more attention. He is always delivering top quality master class type content with glossaries etc... for absolutely free! Massive respect
Another great video Nico, I really appreciate the minimal use of music and that you just get straight into the information. So many channels seem to focus on glitzy productions, arty cut scenes and all sort of other un-necessary garnish, keep up the great work mate. You have another Patreon 👍
IF YOU ARE NEW TO ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY .. SKIP TO 5:57 for Nico's clear advice about filters.. then you can watch rest of the video for information/entertainment purposes... Thanks Nico!!
Great deal of useful information ! I am not anymore a beginner but not yet an advanced astrophotographer, and your explanations have clarified a lot of concepts to me !! Thanks 🙏
Wow, Nico!!! Yours is a monumental introductory exposition of astrophotography and visual filters. Well done. Thanks for the details. I found it useful that you spoke of DSLR and Astro-DSLRs .... (Digital cameras were at their infancies when I studied photography.) Nice job. Thanks for posting!
Many thanks for this and your other videos. I'm a beginner with just enough experience to begin having filter questions. You answered those questions and saved me significant time and money by making those important explanations. I'm already subbed and appreciate you very much for sharing your experiences,
I’ve mentioned some of this on other videos of yours, but I live in a small town with a Dark Skies organization that lobbies our local government, so there’s an outdoor lighting ordinance and the new traffic lights are Dark Skies compliant. We get tourism for agriculture, wine and cider, and our dark skies. A friend’s mom asked us if that blotchiness in the night sky was clouds, this woman in her 50s seeing the true vastness of our Milky Way for the first time! You can likely imagine her shock on hearing what it actually was
I found the information very good even though I don't do much photography. I use the Neodymium Baader Moon and Skyglow for visual in different scopes as it's one of those filters that works and works well for visual and photography. Daytime Moon is awesome with it when the Moon is out. It just makes things stand out more as well as working for DSOs with a camera.
Very informative, Nico. I learned so much. I have started this week with my Canon 6D modded, Rokinon 135mm and Star Adventure 2i tracker. I live in bortle 8 so it’s difficult for sky imaging. I ordered an Svbony 70ED and considering of getting L-enhance filter. I am not sure if long exposure might cause trailing since I won’t be using auto guiding. I just want to keep things simple for now but still want the filter to enhance the contrast.
Thank you for your help. I have a cheap telescope with a lot of CA. I'm using a Canon crop sensor DSLR and a Panasonic Micro 4/3 camera for astrophotography. I'm not sure I'll get a full frame camera, so is there a need for me to get a 2 inch filter? I think a Baader Contrast / Fringe filter will eliminate a lot of the CA. Am I limited to using clip in filters? I prefer to use threaded filters because of wanting to use both my cameras to see which one I prefer for the hobby. I've been looking for, but I haven't found tubes threaded for filters other than eyepieces and Barolws. I do have a set of macro photography extension tubes, but I don't think they're threaded for filters. I also have an adapter for eyepiece projection, but I can't tell if that will hold a filter. Can you point me in the right direction for locations of and the names of the products I need? Thank you very much.
This was great!!!! so much great information! but I wasn't clear is there an adapter for a 2" filter that would go between a crop sensor camera (Nikon) and a dslr lense or would I have to get something like a redact. I'd really rather use my Nikon lenses if I could for the time being. I live in NYC.
Great intro to filters. Looking forward to the roundup. As a long time Pentax shooter just want to point out that Astronomik does make clip-ins for the full frame K-1. Unfortunately my two Astro conversions - full spectrum and H-alpha - are on APS-C bodies so will look into 2” filters.
Again, another informative and entertaining video. I hope you could address, in a future video, the question of what to do in cities where the change to LED is rapid (should we throw away our light pollution filters?) Thank you so much!
Yes you made the filter video. I’ve been waiting . I’ve only used an astronomic cls in a none modded t6i and not sure if it helps. Now I no why not much difference if any . I think the mix of led sodium vapor and mercury is the reason But not to worry just a half hour drive to bortle 2 or 4 and will be getting a dedicated Astro camera like an asi for nebula galaxy and Jupiter moon or Saturn, just not sure which one but a cooled one for sure as summer days are often over 100
Filters don't really work on broadband targets for most people, they can actually hurt the images. On emission nebulae you should see some improvement with a CLS but it may not be that much depending on your LP. www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/comments/glq0u9/waat_the_weekly_ask_anything_thread_week_of_17/frbeag0/?context=3
Buckling up to watch these awesome tutorials. Your video the other week on the Great Conjunction was so helpful that I managed to catch a decent image! I then attempted some deep sky photos for the first time untracked- failed miserably but during my stretching noticed deep yellow casts which totally ruined the photo - so looking forward to clueing up in these whilst I wait for my star tracker 🙌
Hi Nico!! first of all thanks for your patience to explain everything in great detail. if i didnt get wrong i can use a clip in filter both with telescope and lenses right??
I’m really glad I watched this before I bought a filter. I live in a Bortle-8 zone in South Korea and I’m much better served driving to the mountains than I would be spending a lot of money on filters that would ruin any galaxy photos I shot.
Hi Nico! Can’t wait for your next video comparing filters, meantime I am not clear on dedicated cameras, do they have the I/R filters built in as the dslr? I was thinking about modifying my dslr but at the same time eventually I want to buy a dedicated cooled camera but I’m a bit confused! If dedicated camera has same issue maybe I just modify my dslr and don’t switch😩 be well, clear skies!!🤝
Some are full spectrum (need to buy your own uv/ir cut filter) and some have an Astronomical uv/ir cut filter already installed (ha mod). None that I know of have the more extreme ir cutoff of your typical DSLR. So no worries there if you buy a dedicated astro camera. The cooling is also really nice! Hope this clears its up! I'd be happy to answer any questions about specific camera s too!
Nebula Photos thanks Nico, yes so that makes sense, my savings are still not there to buy a dedicated cooled camera yet but I am sure I will ask your opinion I just would like to get one that its easy to use like the dslr that you just focus and shoot sort of, you know what I mean. Stay safe, keep them coming and clear skies Nico! 🤝
Thanks for this video Nico. What I have now realized is that I HAVE TO GET my Nikon D810 or Sony A7RIII modified to use the clip in filters from Astronomik. Since there is a problem in modifying the Sony cameras I have, that only leaves my Nikon D810. Heavy and rear screen focusing sucks on the D810. I've tried shooting the Horsehead Nebula and Rosette Nebula with very little success using my stock cameras. On the Sony side I'm using a 100-400mm lens and on the Nikon side I would be using the 150-600mm Sigma lens. Haven't tried the 4-5 minute exposure thing yet either. Keep the videos coming though.
Thanks for your nice and informative videos. I was thinking that using narrowband filters on the IR side of the spectrum will be a completely waste of money if your camera sensor is not astro-modified (either full-spectrum or without IR-cut filter). Am I right?
I'd say that would make your life very difficult, but I have seen some do it. Eventually I hope to run my own tests, as it's not something I've tried (narrowband filters on stock DSLR)
Another very well explained video, you make it all so understandably thank you !So if I get this right, I am now using a mirrorless canon and so I am better of buying 2 inch filters if later I want to use a filterwheel with dedicated astrocamera like a ZWO 2600 or a B&W camera ?
This is a nice video. Of course I will buy first a star tracker but I must say I have some entry-level filters for "normal" photography (HD, CPL). should I take those off when photographing the night sky?
this is so intrasting i'm soooooooo happy that you went out with so much info as i am unable to find anything worth while online ,thank you !! quick question, ive removed the IR cut filter on my own and didnt replace it with a clear glass how much will that effect the focus and where can i get the Ha filter that you talked about ?? ( Canon 70D )
Hi Shini, I'm not sure. It would definitely be a minor effect, perhaps not noticeable. Have you noticed any issue with focusing since removing the filter? I know that is why the professional services replace with clear glass (so the backfocus stays the same). Since you didn't install a clear glass, you can achieve the same effect with a 1mm shim between the optics and the camera. May be hard with lenses, but easy enough with a telescope. Astronomik is the biggest source of all kinds of clip-in filters for the Canon DSLRs. Here's an ha clip-in that would fit your 70D: www.highpointscientific.com/astronomik-h-alpha-12-nm-eos-clip-filter-ha12-eos
@@NebulaPhotos thanks so much for the info and happy new year, tbh i am not so sure if it is because of that of because of the L enhance filter that i have or if it is because of star trailing as i am using sky guider pro with a sigman 150-600 mil lessen , however if you want i can shear some pf my photos that i took and maybe we can get to the bottom of this ?
@@NebulaPhotos There is a lot of software for processing photos/stacking and do all those kinds of stuff with astrophotos. So the first struggle I faced with is - can I use just one tool like PixInsight? Or will DSS + photoshop could replace PixInsight (probably not, but why?)? I'm really at the beginning right now. I use DSS + photoshop and just want to know what the options are. Some of the programs are pretty expensive and there are a lot of them. So it is good to know what alternatives you have. I hope it all makes sense. Thanks again for all your videos! I've learned a lot!
@@SergeyKravchenya got it thanks! I'd probably need to do two series. One for acquisition software (APT, PHD2, SGP, BYEOS, etc), and one for processing software (like the ones you mentioned). Cheers, Nico
I replaced my ir cutting filter in my canon with a quartz glass lens because it allows a wider range of the light spectrum (from the beginning where ultraviolet begins to where infrared ends) there for the camera can capture more light in less exposure time. On my guiding camera, I was able to see twice as many stars using less exposure than I started with. This is great for polar alignment guiding cameras. My mod is made for infrared photography as well as ultraviolet photography, but I am using it now for astrophotography. Quartz silica glass lenses are made in China for 5 to 10 dollars at that size.
Hi Nico! Thank you so much for your great review! May I ask you, what do you think of Universal Astro light-pollution filter? Looks like the new player in the market with a very reasonable price! Have you had a chance to try this one out yet? thank you!
Loving all the information you provide. I have a canon 6D that has had a full spectrum modification, after putting my Astronomik Ha 12nm CCD EOS XL clip-filter, but really struggling to see through it to focus when attached to my sigma 35mm f1.4 lens. If I prefocus on the stars without the filter, then add the filter afterwards would it still be the same focus point with the filter in the camera?
nice and informative video, guess for now I'm best off w/o a filter :-) reading some of the other comments and you're looking for topics for new videos, here's an idea to think about: why does stacking actually work? So if I take 400 shots at 2 secs why is it the same as a tracked 800sec shot and how big is the difference between let's say 100 stacked, 300 stacked, 1000 stacked (I tried 100 shots at 2 secs with my crappy gear and only got something that looked like the classic windows starfield screensaver [even with stretching] but with loads of noise , but in contrast a non-tracked 20-30sec exposure looks somehow better)
Thank you for the idea! I like this idea a lot and it would be good to test and show results. A lot comes down to post processing, but I don't doubt there are differences as you noticed. Clear skies, Nico
The "informed decision" is very important. I tell my kids to always question everything and everyone, no matter their status, until they clearly understand what they are being told. "You cannot make an informed decision if you don't have the information."
Years ago I made the step to go for a BCF mod on my canon 1100D, I was totally blown away by the difference it made and still use it today. (I remember how my jaw dropped when I saw the first images of the Orion nebula.) I can even use it for daylight photography, I only have to adjust the white balance since everything is more red. Good video Nico!
Yes, modded cameras are really fun. And good point, I should have mentioned that modded cameras can be used for daylight photography, either by setting a custom white balance or buying a OWB (original white balance) filter which are sometimes available.
BTW could you do a dedicated video on making Bias frames, darks and flats so that we can refer to a single video for the info? I haven't got the process committed to muscle memory and can never remember whether flats are at the same focus and settings as the lights, and which ones have to be done at the same temperature etc... Thanks 😁
"Filter Finder Tool" ... Did you ever get around to that ? That would be awesome. I just bought a ASI533 MM MONO and I want to use it on a Ritchey with FL of 1625 mm. Anyone have any suggestions, for DSO's, without breaking the bank ? Also, since you put out so many great videos, can you suggest a video or more, from your library, that i should watch
Hey Nico, great explanation on the filters. As a side note I’d like to ask you where can I get my T3i rebel converted to a full spectrum camera here in the states? I know you’re based in MA and I’m okay with sending my camera to the east coast but would be great if knew of a service on the west coast too, thanks.
I'm still trying to find the answer to my question from 12 hours ago so I kept scouring the Internet. Here's what I think is at least part of the answer. Please correct me if I'm wrong and please confirm if I'm headed in the right directon. To insert a filter I must remove the t adapter from the t ring, screw in the filter as far as it will go, and then reinsert the threaded t adapter. My scope is the Orion ST-80. I don't think the focuser is made for 2" accessories. If I use 2" filters do I need to upgrade to a focuser manufactured for 2" accessories? Is there an adapter that goes from 1.25" up to 2"? If so would using such an adapter still contribute to the famed vignetting I want to avoid? Thank you.
I have a Orion ST-80 and by default as you say it doesn't have a 2" focuser, it's t-threaded. Normal T-threads are 42mm, a 2" filter has 48mm threads. What you would need to use a 2" filter is a 2" filter drawer with 42mm t threads on the outside. I think such a product might exist. Check out Agena and other online stores. Other options might be to get a field flattener that has allows for threaded 2" filters or to change out the focuser. Those would probably both be more expensive than a filter drawer. In terms of threaded filters, 1.25" may work for M4/3 if you can get the filter close to the sensor, but for APS-C and full frame DSLRs, you are going to want to use 2" or clip-in.
I use filters to help reduce light pollution because I have sooo much light pollution from where I live. In order to get something barley visible like star clusters,galaxies and nebulae I have to use a filter or the pictures get way to bright and are unuseable or poor quality. Just looking at Saturn and Jupiter I can't see much detail unless I got far away from the city which I can't go out much.
Hi. Im in Bortle 5. I can not see the milkyway, will a filter help me with that? I have a canon 600D Stock. I just want to see the milky way, so i was thinking that there must me a filter for me to get away from the light in my bortle 5? No led lights here where i Live. Old lights on the country :)
The milky way is a broadband target. Filters don't help bring it out in my experience. Even if you cant see it in a single shot, you should still be able to bring it out with hundreds of stacked photos from Bortle 5.
Nico - could you please explain something for me? Why would the sensor need to have twice the number of green pixels, when we would already detect the correct number of green pixels twice as well. Shouldn't the colour balance of the sensor be the same as it is in the object?
Hmmm, I think I understand your question, but I'm not sure how to answer it directly. The way I've always though about it is a consumer digital camera is trying to reproduce human eyes. Since our eyes are more sensitive to light in the green spectrum they are making the sensor more sensitive to light in green by doubling the number of pixels filtered for green. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_vision#/media/File:Eyesensitivity.svg That said, the Bayer color filter array is just one of many ways to try to capture color information with a digital sensor. There are many other less popular approaches, and some (foveon sensors) don't double the green. Also keep in mind that you seem to be talking about our perception of the final photo, but that photo (non-linear) is in no way raw, it's transformed by an algorithm to mimic the way our brains process color and light. So in my analogy, the physical camera/lens system is like our eyes, and the computer (whether it's in the DSLR or a laptop) is like our brain. It processes the raw information and makes sense of it.
Hey bro, really like your content and how you approach explaining multiple aspects of astrophotography. I have a question for you if you don’t mind: I just got my first CCD camera (ASI 183MC Pro) and I was interested in knowing if I need a UV/IR cut filter? I was looking at a 2” filter with a, filter drawer. Not entirely sure how it fits in the image train, but I was thinking a 2” field flattener, the filter drawer and whatever m42 extenders I need for back focus. So in a nutshell wanted to know do I need a the filter /drawer and if so how would you place it?
Yes, the ASI183MC Pro only has an anti-reflective window, not a full-on IR-cut filter internally, so for best results I suggest getting an astronomy-specific 2" IR-cut filter. Most field flatteners have internal threads for this type of filter (2" filter = 48mm threads). If your field flattener has that feature, you would not need a filter drawer.
One needs a tracker for DSO, right? But for solasystem photography one might need a lightpollution-filter if photographing from city/aglo (independent of tracker)?
No. Solar system objects are fairly immune to the effects of light pollution so no LP filter needed. They are very particular about seeing so you need to look up forecasts and ideally be in a good location for that. Deep sky WITH filters requires tracking. You can get started in deep sky without filters and without tracking. See other videos on my channel for guides on that.
Honestly, I can't find many for Nikon. I only found 1. Ohayo makes LPS filter but for the front of the lens. Just put it on like any other normal filter (I.e. UV). I have a Nikon D5600 and been a pain... feel like astrophotography is really mainly for Canon
The hard thing for the clip-in filter manufacturers is that Nikon kept changing the internal structure of their crop-sensor camera bodies, while Canon was very consistent. The D5600 has a great sensor though, so you should still be able to get some cool shots! Clear skies, Nico
Hi Nico. I'd love to see you test out the Kase light pollution filter at some point to see how it stacks up. It's super cheap but they don't seem to have published any performance data. :)
Thanks for your share, I have got canon 6D stock camera, im about to buy h-alpha 12nm filter to be able to take better milky way pictures to reduce light pollutions, any suggestion? please
I'm not sure if you are going to be happy with the results of using a H-alpha filter on milky way with a stock camera. Do you have any examples of someone doing this that you think looks good?
@@NebulaPhotos After watching your video I have decided not to buy h-alpha filter. I have purchased CLS filter and Moveshootmove star tracker. I think best budget choice for me.
We can make imperfect comparisons by shooting ha emission nebulae with different cameras and comparing the response. A more technical way would be to shoot a white light source through a diffraction grating and study the spectra. I might have more on this in future videos
Can you set your camera to shoot mono and then use red, green, blue filters or do you have to have a camera that shoots specifically in mono? I don't know if I am wording this right. By "set the camera to mono" I am talking about going into the setting on the camera.
No, the mono setting in camera is just a JPEG transformation. If you look at the raw file you will see it is still color because all photos from a color camera have to be in color. Every pixel is physically covered by a tiny colored filter in something called a color filter array. The most famous color filter array is the original, the Bayer Matrix, with two green for every one red and one blue pixel. This best mimics human color vision due to the way the cones in our eyes work.
@@NebulaPhotos oh I get it. I just didn't know if you had to have a monochrome camera or if you can use a setting, but I see what you mean. Thank you. Maybe for a 5 min Friday you could explain the atmospheric conditions like seeing and what is optimal and how to know
Hi Max, I'd probably start experimenting with star trails photography without a filter, yes. If you already have a filter, then try it both ways. One good way to do star trails photography when dealing with light pollution is take many short-ish photos (30 seconds to 2 minutes each depending on LP) with an intervalometer, and then stack them with the free software called StarStax: markus-enzweiler.de/software/starstax/ which is specifically for stacking star trails photos. It has a neat stacking mode, which can fill in the little gaps between taking photos.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the advice! I've only done star trails once (short ones but they turned out cool) but that was at a site with much less light pollution. I tried StarStax and Sequator (which I used for comet Neowise from the same night) and found them about equal for trails. I'm figuring out that nightscapes and star trails are really about the foreground just as much as the sky so I'm looking to experiment more with subjects and longer focal lengths. Your videos are so inspiring to make me want to get out and try nebulas. Have you ever incorporated something like the Pleiades into a "landscape" shot with a 50mm or 85mm lens?
It doesn’t matter for untracked. With untracked we are almost always underexposed so just use the NPF rule, fast aperture, and a high ISO and take as many as possible
To be honest.. there’s not on star in the sky where i live.. but one big question here.. If you just look through the filter.. no camera.. Will you see a difference? Using any filter?
That filter does not look like a good match for astroimaging. It doesn't pass the h-alpha line, but does pass lots of UV and IR. This is the opposite of what we are typically looking for in a deep sky Astronomical filter.
I came here from another video of yours, suggesting that for live sky viewing, a filter is not needed. ...I haven't gotten to that point yet, but will touch on your first explanation, which is that adding a filter isn't going to add to light bands already removed (filtered out) by another filter (in your example, a DSLR). Another newbie in a forum I belong to asked if it's possible to stack filters. ...being a rational thinking mind (IMO), I suggested that blocking more and more of a very dim deep space object might not improve imaging. As for this presentation, I never did get to what I was looking for. ...perhaps I came to the wrong video, since the "Do I need a filter" segment didn't cover live viewing (I'll back browse to verify the reference). Perhaps the human eye isn't sensitive enough to appreciate what a filter does for night viewing. I get that human eye aperture is very small for space exploration. My consideration is based on partial explanations via other videos, without any reply other than "Start with tracking". I don't want astrophotography at this point. I'm new at astronomy. I want the best views I can get with the 8" dobsonian I have. More than one vid showed initial one second photo made by a digital focuser camera being better than human eye viewing. All went on to take many other pix to stack for amazing photographs. One suggested the obvious: that even a short exposure snapshot from medium aperture telescope mirror is more sensitive than the small human eye. My question is: would a few short exposure snapshots taken with a focuser cam then stacked with one of the computer apps bring detail and color to things like Nebula or galaxies for a live viewing session if a laptop was brought into the fold? Any input will be appreciated. ....While a lot of what you discuss in this video is above my head, it's well presented. Thank you.
Let me know if you can find the reference as I don’t remember it. Filters for visual astronomy through an eyepiece are a whole different subject and basically nothing in this video or on my channel applies to that subject. Sorry! Yes, even relatively short exposures (1/2 sec.) with a modern digital camera will show way more detail than our eyes. Our eyes work like video cameras so each exposure is only 1/30 sec. Which is not much time for the dim detail of a deep space object to develop. And yes to your question about a laptop with small focuser camera. That is a whole growing field of amateur astronomy called ‘electronically assisted astronomy’ EAA. The idea is to do ‘live stacking’ where the image develops right in front of your eyes on the laptop. There is free software like sharpcap, DSS live, and others that work well for this method.
@@NebulaPhotos, thank you for the reply. It was indeed EAA videos that had me asking the question. No one else explained much, other than "get tracking", which I perhaps will do in the future. I'm new to the hobby, so visual is where I am at this point... plus, as an old guy, I want to know how to scan the skies myself before punching in known numbers. Anyway, thanks again. and have a happy Holiday Season.
I think it is definitely admirable and a good idea to learn visual astronomy without tracking or 'Go To' first. Most of the youtube videos I've seen (mine included) only focus on photography, maybe because it lends itself to the visual medium better. If you have a local astronomy club, I think you will find many amateurs are interested in visual / EAA and will be happy to help. Have a wonderful holiday Steve and clear skies! Nico
Sooo, when are you planning to release your light pollution filter shootout video? I've been reading about these things for a while now and I'd really love to get my first one but still can't decide.
I'm trying to get it done this month. (been saying that for a few months now- I am new to reviews and so it's been a learning curve for me and taking longer than expected). Feel free to email me with your specific info: gear, sky conditions, goals, and I can advise. nicocarver at gmail dot com
I would think the obvious filter size for a lot of setups (mine, anyway) would be T-mount dimensions (42 mm thread, 0.75 mm pitch). (For those who don't know, normal 42 mm photographic filters have 1 mm thread pitch. Don't ask how I know.) Let me know if I am wrong, good people.
Oh and one last question. Is there a way to find out what "color" light pollution is in your sky, so you can know what filter will be most effective? With a lot of city's going to LED street lights, but they still have the old street lights, it would be great if there is way to know what color light pollution is making up the most of your sky's pollution so you can purchase a filter that will block out the color that makes up the majority of the pollution. I hope I am asking this question properly...it sounds right in my head, lol.
Yes, you are asking it correctly. Easiest way is to take a picture of your towns streetlamp and the light it's producing at night with your DSLR. If the light looks orange/yellow then it's probably still high pressure sodium and the LP filters will be more effective. If it looks like white light (daylight) then it's LED and LP filters will still do something (like in my LP filter shootout) but won't be as effective as they once were
@@NebulaPhotos oh ok...I'll give that a shot once I am at that point. Right now I am focusing on getting a star tracker so I can work with longer exposures and see how they turn out before I go buying filters. My goal is to get a star tracker, get some practice with that, then get one of those redcat 51,61,71...not sure which one but I'm just gonna use my lenses for now. I don't wanna spend a lot of money on things I have no idea how to use, or more importantly WHY I need those things. My girls seem to be very interested in it as well, so it will be a great hobby that can teach my girls about science, astronomy, and give me some important father/daughter time with them. After all, the stars are our future! Thanks for responding and answering my questions. Keep up the great work!
I really like that your channel doesn't ignore the beginners with a DSLR. So many astrophotography channels focus on high end specialized astro cameras that are out of reach for many people.
I don't understand why would someone dislike this amazing video which is absolutely free , I watched both ads in starting of video till end , I subscribed your channel because you explain each and every part in so detail it helps so much , thank you for sharing
Love from India :)
Glad you liked it! Clear skies, Nico
Yay now in 2021 everything is happy no more dislikes on TH-cam videos the world doesn't like negativity so now its taking the first steps to get rid of it!
Nico really deserves more attention. He is always delivering top quality master class type content with glossaries etc... for absolutely free! Massive respect
That was so thorough and organized you could be a librarian. Thanks for the input, much appreciated!
🤓📚 Glad you liked it! Clear skies, Nico
Isn't he already a librarian at the Wolbach Library of the Center for Astrophysics?
I have to say....you are to astrophotography what Bob Ross was to painting. So many owe you thanks!
Another great video Nico, I really appreciate the minimal use of music and that you just get straight into the information. So many channels seem to focus on glitzy productions, arty cut scenes and all sort of other un-necessary garnish, keep up the great work mate. You have another Patreon 👍
Thanks Richard! I appreciate the support!!
Agree 200%
IF YOU ARE NEW TO ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY .. SKIP TO 5:57 for Nico's clear advice about filters.. then you can watch rest of the video for information/entertainment purposes...
Thanks Nico!!
Thanks for cover in depth filters for DSLRs for all of us newbies!
Came for 5:57 stayed for the thorough information! THANK YOU IMMENSELY
Awesome! Clear skies!!
@@NebulaPhotos You as well ! ^-^
Super informative. This one video answered so many of the questions I have had about filters and astronomy cameras in general!
Great deal of useful information ! I am not anymore a beginner but not yet an advanced astrophotographer, and your explanations have clarified a lot of concepts to me !! Thanks 🙏
Great to hear Philippe! Clear skies, Nico
Vau. Full support. Nice and easy about most important questions about filters.
Wow, Nico!!! Yours is a monumental introductory exposition of astrophotography and visual filters. Well done.
Thanks for the details. I found it useful that you spoke of DSLR and Astro-DSLRs .... (Digital cameras were at their infancies when I studied photography.)
Nice job.
Thanks for posting!
One of the best videos so far. The latter half was particularly very useful. A refreshing revisit to some basics.
Excellent educational video. I enjoy your videos Nico. Please keep them coming.
Thanks! I plan to
Thankyou for taking the time to make videos like this to help others.
Thank you sir, being new to this you have alleviated some serious stress for me, not to mention cash.
I've been looking for such a video about filters! Spot-on Nico, thanks!!
Glad I could be helpful
Wow!! Exactly what I've been waiting for!
Awesome, hope it helped
Excellent job on these videos! Very clear teaching and helpful to those of us trying to learn astrophotography. Thanks!!
Many thanks for this and your other videos. I'm a beginner with just enough experience to begin having filter questions. You answered those questions and saved me significant time and money by making those important explanations. I'm already subbed and appreciate you very much for sharing your experiences,
Your content has been very helpful as a new astrophotographer beginning in untracked deep sky :) thank you and keep up the good work
You're very welcome. I'll have more untracked videos this summer
Finally! I've been looking for a video like this ♥
Great!
I’ve mentioned some of this on other videos of yours, but I live in a small town with a Dark Skies organization that lobbies our local government, so there’s an outdoor lighting ordinance and the new traffic lights are Dark Skies compliant. We get tourism for agriculture, wine and cider, and our dark skies. A friend’s mom asked us if that blotchiness in the night sky was clouds, this woman in her 50s seeing the true vastness of our Milky Way for the first time! You can likely imagine her shock on hearing what it actually was
It truly is amazing to see it for the first time. That is great to hear about the success in your town!
Great video once again. Very instructive and clear for everyone I think. Keep it up
Excellent video! Really interesting and so well explained. A big thank you!
Thanks for the great video. It really helped me understand the different filters and how they are used.
Very good approach to this topic and very informative video!
I found the information very good even though I don't do much photography. I use the Neodymium Baader Moon and Skyglow for visual in different scopes as it's one of those filters that works and works well for visual and photography. Daytime Moon is awesome with it when the Moon is out. It just makes things stand out more as well as working for DSOs with a camera.
What a boss, i really like your videos ! The quality of your explanations !!!!
You got one more sub :D
Clear sky
Very informative, Nico. I learned so much. I have started this week with my Canon 6D modded, Rokinon 135mm and Star Adventure 2i tracker. I live in bortle 8 so it’s difficult for sky imaging. I ordered an Svbony 70ED and considering of getting L-enhance filter. I am not sure if long exposure might cause trailing since I won’t be using auto guiding. I just want to keep things simple for now but still want the filter to enhance the contrast.
Thank you for your help. I have a cheap telescope with a lot of CA. I'm using a Canon crop sensor DSLR and a Panasonic Micro 4/3 camera for astrophotography. I'm not sure I'll get a full frame camera, so is there a need for me to get a 2 inch filter?
I think a Baader Contrast / Fringe filter will eliminate a lot of the CA.
Am I limited to using clip in filters? I prefer to use threaded filters because of wanting to use both my cameras to see which one I prefer for the hobby.
I've been looking for, but I haven't found tubes threaded for filters other than eyepieces and Barolws.
I do have a set of macro photography extension tubes, but I don't think they're threaded for filters. I also have an adapter for eyepiece projection, but I can't tell if that will hold a filter.
Can you point me in the right direction for locations of and the names of the products I need?
Thank you very much.
This was great!!!! so much great information! but I wasn't clear is there an adapter for a 2" filter that would go between a crop sensor camera (Nikon) and a dslr lense or would I have to get something like a redact. I'd really rather use my Nikon lenses if I could for the time being. I live in NYC.
Great intro to filters. Looking forward to the roundup. As a long time Pentax shooter just want to point out that Astronomik does make clip-ins for the full frame K-1. Unfortunately my two Astro conversions - full spectrum and H-alpha - are on APS-C bodies so will look into 2” filters.
Again, another informative and entertaining video. I hope you could address, in a future video, the question of what to do in cities where the change to LED is rapid (should we throw away our light pollution filters?) Thank you so much!
Thanks! I'm still working on my light pollution filter reviews and will address this a bit in that video I think.
Yes you made the filter video. I’ve been waiting . I’ve only used an astronomic cls in a none modded t6i and not sure if it helps. Now I no why not much difference if any . I think the mix of led sodium vapor and mercury is the reason But not to worry just a half hour drive to bortle 2 or 4 and will be getting a dedicated Astro camera like an asi for nebula galaxy and Jupiter moon or Saturn, just not sure which one but a cooled one for sure as summer days are often over 100
Filters don't really work on broadband targets for most people, they can actually hurt the images. On emission nebulae you should see some improvement with a CLS but it may not be that much depending on your LP. www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/comments/glq0u9/waat_the_weekly_ask_anything_thread_week_of_17/frbeag0/?context=3
That's great that you are within a half hour of Bortle 2. I'm envious!
Thanks a lot! This was really helpful ♥️
Buckling up to watch these awesome tutorials. Your video the other week on the Great Conjunction was so helpful that I managed to catch a decent image! I then attempted some deep sky photos for the first time untracked- failed miserably but during my stretching noticed deep yellow casts which totally ruined the photo - so looking forward to clueing up in these whilst I wait for my star tracker 🙌
Very useful - thanks Nico.
A LOT of info. Great video!!
Hi Nico!! first of all thanks for your patience to explain everything in great detail. if i didnt get wrong i can use a clip in filter both with telescope and lenses right??
That's right!
I’m really glad I watched this before I bought a filter. I live in a Bortle-8 zone in South Korea and I’m much better served driving to the mountains than I would be spending a lot of money on filters that would ruin any galaxy photos I shot.
Hi Nico! Can’t wait for your next video comparing filters, meantime I am not clear on dedicated cameras, do they have the I/R filters built in as the dslr? I was thinking about modifying my dslr but at the same time eventually I want to buy a dedicated cooled camera but I’m a bit confused! If dedicated camera has same issue maybe I just modify my dslr and don’t switch😩 be well, clear skies!!🤝
Some are full spectrum (need to buy your own uv/ir cut filter) and some have an Astronomical uv/ir cut filter already installed (ha mod). None that I know of have the more extreme ir cutoff of your typical DSLR. So no worries there if you buy a dedicated astro camera. The cooling is also really nice! Hope this clears its up! I'd be happy to answer any questions about specific camera s too!
Nebula Photos thanks Nico, yes so that makes sense, my savings are still not there to buy a dedicated cooled camera yet but I am sure I will ask your opinion I just would like to get one that its easy to use like the dslr that you just focus and shoot sort of, you know what I mean. Stay safe, keep them coming and clear skies Nico! 🤝
Thanks man!!!
Great info, thanks Nico
Thanks for this video Nico. What I have now realized is that I HAVE TO GET my Nikon D810 or Sony A7RIII modified to use the clip in filters from Astronomik. Since there is a problem in modifying the Sony cameras I have, that only leaves my Nikon D810. Heavy and rear screen focusing sucks on the D810. I've tried shooting the Horsehead Nebula and Rosette Nebula with very little success using my stock cameras. On the Sony side I'm using a 100-400mm lens and on the Nikon side I would be using the 150-600mm Sigma lens. Haven't tried the 4-5 minute exposure thing yet either. Keep the videos coming though.
Thanks for making this video Nico it was super helpful!
Thanks Raziq! Clear skies, Nico
Very concise video. Thank you
Great video as always. Keep it up and stay safe.
Thanks!
Thanks for your nice and informative videos. I was thinking that using narrowband filters on the IR side of the spectrum will be a completely waste of money if your camera sensor is not astro-modified (either full-spectrum or without IR-cut filter). Am I right?
I'd say that would make your life very difficult, but I have seen some do it. Eventually I hope to run my own tests, as it's not something I've tried (narrowband filters on stock DSLR)
Another very well explained video, you make it all so understandably thank you !So if I get this right, I am now using a mirrorless canon and so I am better of buying 2 inch filters if later I want to use a filterwheel with dedicated astrocamera like a ZWO 2600 or a B&W camera ?
Correct. 2" filters are the most versatile.
This is a nice video. Of course I will buy first a star tracker but I must say I have some entry-level filters for "normal" photography (HD, CPL). should I take those off when photographing the night sky?
Yes, definitely take them off! Good thing to mention. Clear skies, Nico
Great video! Just like your image processing videos, it is very well explained!
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Good explanations, Nico!
Thanks Dan!
Great work, thank you very much. Very helpful form me.
this is so intrasting i'm soooooooo happy that you went out with so much info as i am unable to find anything worth while online ,thank you !!
quick question, ive removed the IR cut filter on my own and didnt replace it with a clear glass how much will that effect the focus and where can i get the Ha filter that you talked about ?? ( Canon 70D )
Hi Shini, I'm not sure. It would definitely be a minor effect, perhaps not noticeable. Have you noticed any issue with focusing since removing the filter? I know that is why the professional services replace with clear glass (so the backfocus stays the same). Since you didn't install a clear glass, you can achieve the same effect with a 1mm shim between the optics and the camera. May be hard with lenses, but easy enough with a telescope.
Astronomik is the biggest source of all kinds of clip-in filters for the Canon DSLRs. Here's an ha clip-in that would fit your 70D: www.highpointscientific.com/astronomik-h-alpha-12-nm-eos-clip-filter-ha12-eos
@@NebulaPhotos thanks so much for the info and happy new year, tbh i am not so sure if it is because of that of because of the L enhance filter that i have or if it is because of star trailing as i am using sky guider pro with a sigman 150-600 mil lessen , however if you want i can shear some pf my photos that i took and maybe we can get to the bottom of this ?
@@shiniforever sure. Send to nicocarver at Gmail dot com
Thanks for the video! Are you planning to make a similar series of videos about software for astrophotography?
I'm always looking for new video ideas to add to my list. What kinds of things would you like to know about software for astrophotography?
@@NebulaPhotos There is a lot of software for processing photos/stacking and do all those kinds of stuff with astrophotos. So the first struggle I faced with is - can I use just one tool like PixInsight? Or will DSS + photoshop could replace PixInsight (probably not, but why?)? I'm really at the beginning right now. I use DSS + photoshop and just want to know what the options are. Some of the programs are pretty expensive and there are a lot of them. So it is good to know what alternatives you have. I hope it all makes sense. Thanks again for all your videos! I've learned a lot!
@@SergeyKravchenya got it thanks! I'd probably need to do two series. One for acquisition software (APT, PHD2, SGP, BYEOS, etc), and one for processing software (like the ones you mentioned). Cheers, Nico
I replaced my ir cutting filter in my canon with a quartz glass lens because it allows a wider range of the light spectrum (from the beginning where ultraviolet begins to where infrared ends) there for the camera can capture more light in less exposure time. On my guiding camera, I was able to see twice as many stars using less exposure than I started with. This is great for polar alignment guiding cameras.
My mod is made for infrared photography as well as ultraviolet photography, but I am using it now for astrophotography.
Quartz silica glass lenses are made in China for 5 to 10 dollars at that size.
This was a lengthy but very informative and useful video Nico. Thank you!
Have a stock dslr and new to astrophotography?, no filter needed, thanks Nico, I'll come back to this video when I'm more experienced.
Hi Nico! Thank you so much for your great review! May I ask you, what do you think of Universal Astro light-pollution filter? Looks like the new player in the market with a very reasonable price! Have you had a chance to try this one out yet? thank you!
I haven't. Thanks for the heads up
Loving all the information you provide.
I have a canon 6D that has had a full spectrum modification, after putting my Astronomik Ha 12nm CCD EOS XL clip-filter, but really struggling to see through it to focus when attached to my sigma 35mm f1.4 lens.
If I prefocus on the stars without the filter, then add the filter afterwards would it still be the same focus point with the filter in the camera?
thank you so much for this !!
nice and informative video, guess for now I'm best off w/o a filter :-)
reading some of the other comments and you're looking for topics for new videos, here's an idea to think about:
why does stacking actually work? So if I take 400 shots at 2 secs why is it the same as a tracked 800sec shot and how big is the difference between let's say 100 stacked, 300 stacked, 1000 stacked (I tried 100 shots at 2 secs with my crappy gear and only got something that looked like the classic windows starfield screensaver [even with stretching] but with loads of noise , but in contrast a non-tracked 20-30sec exposure looks somehow better)
Thank you for the idea! I like this idea a lot and it would be good to test and show results. A lot comes down to post processing, but I don't doubt there are differences as you noticed. Clear skies, Nico
The "informed decision" is very important. I tell my kids to always question everything and everyone, no matter their status, until they clearly understand what they are being told. "You cannot make an informed decision if you don't have the information."
Years ago I made the step to go for a BCF mod on my canon 1100D, I was totally blown away by the difference it made and still use it today. (I remember how my jaw dropped when I saw the first images of the Orion nebula.) I can even use it for daylight photography, I only have to adjust the white balance since everything is more red. Good video Nico!
Yes, modded cameras are really fun. And good point, I should have mentioned that modded cameras can be used for daylight photography, either by setting a custom white balance or buying a OWB (original white balance) filter which are sometimes available.
BTW could you do a dedicated video on making Bias frames, darks and flats so that we can refer to a single video for the info? I haven't got the process committed to muscle memory and can never remember whether flats are at the same focus and settings as the lights, and which ones have to be done at the same temperature etc... Thanks 😁
It's on my list. I'll try to have it done by September
Wow, thanks. This helps a lot.
"Filter Finder Tool" ... Did you ever get around to that ? That would be awesome. I just bought a ASI533 MM MONO and I want to use it on a Ritchey with FL of 1625 mm. Anyone have any suggestions, for DSO's, without breaking the bank ? Also, since you put out so many great videos, can you suggest a video or more, from your library, that i should watch
Hey Nico, great explanation on the filters. As a side note I’d like to ask you where can I get my T3i rebel converted to a full spectrum camera here in the states? I know you’re based in MA and I’m okay with sending my camera to the east coast but would be great if knew of a service on the west coast too, thanks.
Hi Rohan, I believe lifepixel is on the west coast and can do a full spectrum mod for your T3i.
Nebula Photos oh perfect! I’ll check them out thanks a lot!
I'm still trying to find the answer to my question from 12 hours ago so I kept scouring the Internet. Here's what I think is at least part of the answer. Please correct me if I'm wrong and please confirm if I'm headed in the right directon.
To insert a filter I must remove the t adapter from the t ring, screw in the filter as far as it will go, and then reinsert the threaded t adapter.
My scope is the Orion ST-80. I don't think the focuser is made for 2" accessories. If I use 2" filters do I need to upgrade to a focuser manufactured for 2" accessories?
Is there an adapter that goes from 1.25" up to 2"? If so would using such an adapter still contribute to the famed vignetting I want to avoid?
Thank you.
I have a Orion ST-80 and by default as you say it doesn't have a 2" focuser, it's t-threaded. Normal T-threads are 42mm, a 2" filter has 48mm threads. What you would need to use a 2" filter is a 2" filter drawer with 42mm t threads on the outside. I think such a product might exist. Check out Agena and other online stores. Other options might be to get a field flattener that has allows for threaded 2" filters or to change out the focuser. Those would probably both be more expensive than a filter drawer. In terms of threaded filters, 1.25" may work for M4/3 if you can get the filter close to the sensor, but for APS-C and full frame DSLRs, you are going to want to use 2" or clip-in.
Nico, do UHC clip in filters really help? I have a Canon EOS M10 Camera that I use with my 8 inch Reflector. Thanks
I use filters to help reduce light pollution because I have sooo much light pollution from where I live. In order to get something barley visible like star clusters,galaxies and nebulae I have to use a filter or the pictures get way to bright and are unuseable or poor quality.
Just looking at Saturn and Jupiter I can't see much detail unless I got far away from the city which I can't go out much.
Hi. Im in Bortle 5. I can not see the milkyway, will a filter help me with that? I have a canon 600D Stock. I just want to see the milky way, so i was thinking that there must me a filter for me to get away from the light in my bortle 5? No led lights here where i Live. Old lights on the country :)
The milky way is a broadband target. Filters don't help bring it out in my experience. Even if you cant see it in a single shot, you should still be able to bring it out with hundreds of stacked photos from Bortle 5.
Nico - could you please explain something for me? Why would the sensor need to have twice the number of green pixels, when we would already detect the correct number of green pixels twice as well. Shouldn't the colour balance of the sensor be the same as it is in the object?
Hmmm, I think I understand your question, but I'm not sure how to answer it directly.
The way I've always though about it is a consumer digital camera is trying to reproduce human eyes. Since our eyes are more sensitive to light in the green spectrum they are making the sensor more sensitive to light in green by doubling the number of pixels filtered for green. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_vision#/media/File:Eyesensitivity.svg That said, the Bayer color filter array is just one of many ways to try to capture color information with a digital sensor. There are many other less popular approaches, and some (foveon sensors) don't double the green. Also keep in mind that you seem to be talking about our perception of the final photo, but that photo (non-linear) is in no way raw, it's transformed by an algorithm to mimic the way our brains process color and light. So in my analogy, the physical camera/lens system is like our eyes, and the computer (whether it's in the DSLR or a laptop) is like our brain. It processes the raw information and makes sense of it.
Clip-in filters for Nikon????? Where can I find for apsc?
Hey bro, really like your content and how you approach explaining multiple aspects of astrophotography.
I have a question for you if you don’t mind: I just got my first CCD camera (ASI 183MC Pro) and I was interested in knowing if I need a UV/IR cut filter? I was looking at a 2” filter with a, filter drawer.
Not entirely sure how it fits in the image train, but I was thinking a 2” field flattener, the filter drawer and whatever m42 extenders I need for back focus.
So in a nutshell wanted to know do I need a the filter /drawer and if so how would you place it?
Yes, the ASI183MC Pro only has an anti-reflective window, not a full-on IR-cut filter internally, so for best results I suggest getting an astronomy-specific 2" IR-cut filter. Most field flatteners have internal threads for this type of filter (2" filter = 48mm threads). If your field flattener has that feature, you would not need a filter drawer.
Anyone know how much cost to modify Canon 80D in the USA ?
Around $250-300. Check out Lifepixel, Kolarivision, Spencers, etc
Nebula Photos Thank you.
One needs a tracker for DSO, right? But for solasystem photography one might need a lightpollution-filter if photographing from city/aglo (independent of tracker)?
No. Solar system objects are fairly immune to the effects of light pollution so no LP filter needed. They are very particular about seeing so you need to look up forecasts and ideally be in a good location for that. Deep sky WITH filters requires tracking. You can get started in deep sky without filters and without tracking. See other videos on my channel for guides on that.
Honestly, I can't find many for Nikon. I only found 1. Ohayo makes LPS filter but for the front of the lens. Just put it on like any other normal filter (I.e. UV). I have a Nikon D5600 and been a pain... feel like astrophotography is really mainly for Canon
The hard thing for the clip-in filter manufacturers is that Nikon kept changing the internal structure of their crop-sensor camera bodies, while Canon was very consistent. The D5600 has a great sensor though, so you should still be able to get some cool shots! Clear skies, Nico
Hi Nico. I'd love to see you test out the Kase light pollution filter at some point to see how it stacks up. It's super cheap but they don't seem to have published any performance data. :)
Thanks for your share, I have got canon 6D stock camera, im about to buy h-alpha 12nm filter to be able to take better milky way pictures to reduce light pollutions, any suggestion? please
I'm not sure if you are going to be happy with the results of using a H-alpha filter on milky way with a stock camera. Do you have any examples of someone doing this that you think looks good?
@@NebulaPhotos After watching your video I have decided not to buy h-alpha filter. I have purchased CLS filter and Moveshootmove star tracker. I think best budget choice for me.
How do I know how aggressive the IR cut filter is on my camera?
We can make imperfect comparisons by shooting ha emission nebulae with different cameras and comparing the response. A more technical way would be to shoot a white light source through a diffraction grating and study the spectra. I might have more on this in future videos
Can you set your camera to shoot mono and then use red, green, blue filters or do you have to have a camera that shoots specifically in mono? I don't know if I am wording this right. By "set the camera to mono" I am talking about going into the setting on the camera.
No, the mono setting in camera is just a JPEG transformation. If you look at the raw file you will see it is still color because all photos from a color camera have to be in color. Every pixel is physically covered by a tiny colored filter in something called a color filter array. The most famous color filter array is the original, the Bayer Matrix, with two green for every one red and one blue pixel. This best mimics human color vision due to the way the cones in our eyes work.
@@NebulaPhotos oh I get it. I just didn't know if you had to have a monochrome camera or if you can use a setting, but I see what you mean. Thank you. Maybe for a 5 min Friday you could explain the atmospheric conditions like seeing and what is optimal and how to know
Hi which brand is that cheapest tracker in your video?
As far as trackers go, check out the Omegon MiniTrack LX2 or LX3. I think they cost less than the MSM, and no batteries or power required.
Would you still recommend skipping the filter for a star trails (with hopefully an occasional meteor) in a suburban light-polluted area?
Hi Max, I'd probably start experimenting with star trails photography without a filter, yes. If you already have a filter, then try it both ways. One good way to do star trails photography when dealing with light pollution is take many short-ish photos (30 seconds to 2 minutes each depending on LP) with an intervalometer, and then stack them with the free software called StarStax: markus-enzweiler.de/software/starstax/ which is specifically for stacking star trails photos. It has a neat stacking mode, which can fill in the little gaps between taking photos.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the advice! I've only done star trails once (short ones but they turned out cool) but that was at a site with much less light pollution. I tried StarStax and Sequator (which I used for comet Neowise from the same night) and found them about equal for trails. I'm figuring out that nightscapes and star trails are really about the foreground just as much as the sky so I'm looking to experiment more with subjects and longer focal lengths. Your videos are so inspiring to make me want to get out and try nebulas. Have you ever incorporated something like the Pleiades into a "landscape" shot with a 50mm or 85mm lens?
Great video, as always, but please show us that furry beast crying behind the closed doors in the next video! :)
Hey how am I supposed to know how should the histogram on an image look like for untracked astrophotography.
It doesn’t matter for untracked. With untracked we are almost always underexposed so just use the NPF rule, fast aperture, and a high ISO and take as many as possible
To be honest.. there’s not on star in the sky where i live.. but one big question here..
If you just look through the filter.. no camera..
Will you see a difference? Using any filter?
AliExpress seems to have clip in filters for Fuji and Sony
I have a full spectrum camera with a Schott BG3 filter. (I have the chart). The thing is... Can I use It for astrophoto?
That filter does not look like a good match for astroimaging. It doesn't pass the h-alpha line, but does pass lots of UV and IR. This is the opposite of what we are typically looking for in a deep sky Astronomical filter.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks so much
I came here from another video of yours, suggesting that for live sky viewing, a filter is not needed. ...I haven't gotten to that point yet, but will touch on your first explanation, which is that adding a filter isn't going to add to light bands already removed (filtered out) by another filter (in your example, a DSLR). Another newbie in a forum I belong to asked if it's possible to stack filters. ...being a rational thinking mind (IMO), I suggested that blocking more and more of a very dim deep space object might not improve imaging.
As for this presentation, I never did get to what I was looking for. ...perhaps I came to the wrong video, since the "Do I need a filter" segment didn't cover live viewing (I'll back browse to verify the reference). Perhaps the human eye isn't sensitive enough to appreciate what a filter does for night viewing. I get that human eye aperture is very small for space exploration. My consideration is based on partial explanations via other videos, without any reply other than "Start with tracking". I don't want astrophotography at this point. I'm new at astronomy. I want the best views I can get with the 8" dobsonian I have. More than one vid showed initial one second photo made by a digital focuser camera being better than human eye viewing. All went on to take many other pix to stack for amazing photographs. One suggested the obvious: that even a short exposure snapshot from medium aperture telescope mirror is more sensitive than the small human eye. My question is: would a few short exposure snapshots taken with a focuser cam then stacked with one of the computer apps bring detail and color to things like Nebula or galaxies for a live viewing session if a laptop was brought into the fold? Any input will be appreciated. ....While a lot of what you discuss in this video is above my head, it's well presented. Thank you.
Let me know if you can find the reference as I don’t remember it. Filters for visual astronomy through an eyepiece are a whole different subject and basically nothing in this video or on my channel applies to that subject. Sorry! Yes, even relatively short exposures (1/2 sec.) with a modern digital camera will show way more detail than our eyes. Our eyes work like video cameras so each exposure is only 1/30 sec. Which is not much time for the dim detail of a deep space object to develop. And yes to your question about a laptop with small focuser camera. That is a whole growing field of amateur astronomy called ‘electronically assisted astronomy’ EAA. The idea is to do ‘live stacking’ where the image develops right in front of your eyes on the laptop. There is free software like sharpcap, DSS live, and others that work well for this method.
@@NebulaPhotos, thank you for the reply. It was indeed EAA videos that had me asking the question. No one else explained much, other than "get tracking", which I perhaps will do in the future. I'm new to the hobby, so visual is where I am at this point... plus, as an old guy, I want to know how to scan the skies myself before punching in known numbers. Anyway, thanks again. and have a happy Holiday Season.
I think it is definitely admirable and a good idea to learn visual astronomy without tracking or 'Go To' first. Most of the youtube videos I've seen (mine included) only focus on photography, maybe because it lends itself to the visual medium better. If you have a local astronomy club, I think you will find many amateurs are interested in visual / EAA and will be happy to help. Have a wonderful holiday Steve and clear skies! Nico
Great info .. Subscribed...!
And dude what happened to longs hairs..i liked them better 😂
I cut my hair about once every year or two
Its shame there are no professional to do astro modification for my dslr and i cant risk doing by myself.
I dnt know if there is any way out.
Thanks
I don't remember ever watching a TH-cam video when I have have learned so much personally relevent information.
Sooo, when are you planning to release your light pollution filter shootout video? I've been reading about these things for a while now and I'd really love to get my first one but still can't decide.
I'm trying to get it done this month. (been saying that for a few months now- I am new to reviews and so it's been a learning curve for me and taking longer than expected). Feel free to email me with your specific info: gear, sky conditions, goals, and I can advise. nicocarver at gmail dot com
what is that tracker in "Do I need filter?" section?
Move Shoot Move. Still haven't had a chance to test it, but check out Alyn Wallace's channel as he uses it a lot. Good for wide field tracking
I would think the obvious filter size for a lot of setups (mine, anyway) would be T-mount dimensions (42 mm thread, 0.75 mm pitch). (For those who don't know, normal 42 mm photographic filters have 1 mm thread pitch. Don't ask how I know.) Let me know if I am wrong, good people.
Oh and one last question. Is there a way to find out what "color" light pollution is in your sky, so you can know what filter will be most effective? With a lot of city's going to LED street lights, but they still have the old street lights, it would be great if there is way to know what color light pollution is making up the most of your sky's pollution so you can purchase a filter that will block out the color that makes up the majority of the pollution. I hope I am asking this question properly...it sounds right in my head, lol.
Yes, you are asking it correctly. Easiest way is to take a picture of your towns streetlamp and the light it's producing at night with your DSLR. If the light looks orange/yellow then it's probably still high pressure sodium and the LP filters will be more effective. If it looks like white light (daylight) then it's LED and LP filters will still do something (like in my LP filter shootout) but won't be as effective as they once were
@@NebulaPhotos oh ok...I'll give that a shot once I am at that point. Right now I am focusing on getting a star tracker so I can work with longer exposures and see how they turn out before I go buying filters. My goal is to get a star tracker, get some practice with that, then get one of those redcat 51,61,71...not sure which one but I'm just gonna use my lenses for now. I don't wanna spend a lot of money on things I have no idea how to use, or more importantly WHY I need those things. My girls seem to be very interested in it as well, so it will be a great hobby that can teach my girls about science, astronomy, and give me some important father/daughter time with them. After all, the stars are our future! Thanks for responding and answering my questions. Keep up the great work!
@@kevinashley478 That sounds like a great plan Kevin. I'm happy to answer questions as they come up.