I read up on the classifications. I've compared a lot of oils and the truth is almost all brands has the same ratings and specs. Read up on ratings, not on if it says "racing pro extreme" or not.
ive been running my 01 cr250 and 91 kdx250 50:1 with sthill oil, opti, and sometimes what ever is at the gas station. trails. no more fouling plugs all the time.
i remember some dude on a little fishing boat running an engine like that. He was nearly totally hidden in the smoke cloud as he was trolling around the lake.
This is gold. Just bought a modern two stroke KTM 250sx. The last two stroke I had was in the early nineties, and times have changed. Thanks for the content!
Thanks for the vid! For my street legal CR500 I usually pre-measure out Amsoil Dominator oil at 3.2 fluid oz into 8 oz. plastic bottles (easiest to find locally for me). Carry 4 with me in a ziplock bag inside my backpack. Ratio comes out to 40:1. I only have a 2 gallon tank so this is convenient to separate out by each gallon. I just have to stop about every 30 miles and add a gallon to make sure the next gas station won't be a problem. I have found a few 3.2 oz containers of weed whacker grade 2 stroke oil that I use as well. After I use it up on the whacker, I refill with appropriate oil for my CR. I do the same thing with pre-measured Klotz octane booster too. Most gas stations around me only offer 91, which runs fine, but I feel better giving my bike a little more octane.
Love that you’ve had to make a video justifying your decision to use Sabre, lol. I’ve used Amsoil in my bike at 85:1 for years with zeeeero issues. Cylinders, pistons, bottoms ends having always been mint when I open the engine up. For me.....Sabre is by far the easiest, most cost effective high quality oil you can run. The small 236 ml bottle is perfect for mixing a 20L gas can.
Hey would you change the oil ratio to a 60 or 70:1 . If you were in the bush just cruizing along. Rather then track ridding where you would be okay with a 85:1
Geocentric good read, makes a lot of sense , I think I’m going to stop using yamalube in my yz 125 after reading your piece, where I ride a lot at my place I don’t / can’t stay on the pipe a lot and I’m seeing a bit spooge and plug gets a tad wet but never fouls out, but want to try eliminate spooge, sounds like it’s caused by the oil I’m using at spec ratio 32:1, any thoughts on that ?
@@simonriley9378 you ever take your top end off the next day after you've run klotz? You'll find the entire engine has a coating of red rust on everything kind of a brownish red.... Tell him to the ball bearings in the lower end still crankshaft flyer Wheels you're connecting rod maybe that's why they tell you that drain the whole fuel system flush out the motor every time you turn it off cuz I'll never run that clock s*** again after seeing all that.. the young lady bar never left any deposits of carbon or anything else parts were like shiny metal if you just take him out of the package.... Delray wasn't too bad but it would leave deposits on the piston and a combustion chamber in the cylinder head... I don't want the viscosity is today on the Yamaha.. because it is about like 90 weight gear oil and you're running 50 to 1
I was using Yamalube, and 32:1 and because of your videos I wanted to Try Amsoil SAber.. Well I was cautious about running 80:1 or 100:1 so I mixed the oil 60:1 to start. I tried starting the Bike and Immediately fouled the plug and the bike wouldnt run. So I mixed the gas at 80:1 changed the plug, and the Bike runs Great.. Your Videos on (WHY) the oils are mixed at specific ratios are awesome. I had no Idea before why there were different ratios. Now I know.. Thanks
Hey Kyle, love the channel! FYI, from what I understand, you are correct that a richer fuel oil mix (32:1 vs. 100:1) will result in a leaner fuel air mixture, however, in all practicality it's not because the mix becomes harder to pass through the jets. A richer fuel oil mix contains less gas molecules in a given volume (because oil is occupying or replacing the gas) and as we know, less gas per a given air volume equals a leaner fuel air mix.
You are correct John. Oil doesn't combust the way gasoline does. This in effect leans out the mixture. My accolade - I work for a turbo snowmobile kit company.
From the Motul 710 datasheet: RECOMMENDATIONS Mixing ratio: from 2% to 4% (from 50:1 to 25:1) according to manufacturers' requirements. Adjust according to your own use. take note it says "RECOMMENDATIONS "
Both. Have spent hours on technical single track and have race some HS and desert races in sand and silt where you are on the rev limiter all the time. I just pulled the pipe to do some maintenance and there was about 0.5 mm of carbon buildup on the bottom of the manifold @ 60 hrs. It wiped right off and the rest was clean. It actually looks a little rich but the Saber is made to be used at 100:1 to I expect a little extra carbon and spooge at 80:1.
Kyle, I wanted to take a moment and thank you for thought provoking videos. A while ago I caught your video on 2 stroke oil premix. You and I had an email dialogue. After our dialogue I began doing a ton of research on 2 stroke premix. I would like to say this is what I found. A couple of extra ounces more or a couple of ounces less will have a negligible affect on gasoline viscosity. You claim that the reason you run a higher ratio of gasoline to premix is due to the lubrication properties of the premix. This isn't the major reason you have success running less premix to gasoline. The greatest reason is the RPM's at which the engines spend most of their time. What I learned was that even the new fuel injected KTM's inject almost zero oil premix when idling. Then as the RPM's increase so does the amount of oil that is injected. This is to protect the engine parts at extreme temperatures and force. Now in a dirt bike that requires you to premix the oil and fuel, you don't have the luxury of variable Oil to fuel ratios, so you have use a ratio that best works for your bike/conditions. Since you're doing a great deal of single track riding the engine isn't spending most of its time in the upper RPM range most of the time. The engine isn't screaming nonstop like an MX bike does. Albeit the ratios you run work for you and your bikes, it isn't as much a condition of the grade of premix, but more a condition of the type of riding and RPM range you run at. At higher RPM's you need a thicker film of lubrication on the bearings, rings, etc. When a manufacturer recommends a premix ratio, the engineers select this premix ratio based on max RPM and insuring extending engine life. In short you're able to use less oil with strong results due to the lower RPM's your engines mostly run at and not the type/grade of oil you run. The other thing to consider is how well the rings seal especially at higher RPM's. The premix plays an important role here. The less oil in the fuel the thinner the film of oil on the cylinder walls/rings and that reduces compression especially at higher RPM's. Anyway, I wanted to share what I learned, and I did all of this research due to you getting my brain going. Also AFR is AFR, Running a thinner fuel or a thicker won't change the amount of lubrication. I say this because if the engine begins getting more fuel, or too much fuel, you'll need to lean out the fuel air ratio. If the engine is getting less fuel or too little, then you'll have to fatten up the mixture. At the end of the day the ideal AFR is somewhere between 12:1 to 14.5:1 Air Fuel Ratio. You can't run leaner without melting something down and you can't run richer without affecting performance negatively, You can't run a "thinner" fuel and believe you're getting more lubrication. The volumetric efficiency of the engine is static for arguments sake. That said, you'll need "X" amount of fuel for each revolution of the engine to maintain a specific Air Fuel Ratio. The mass of the fuel is more important than the volume. XX parts per million of air to YY parts per million of fuel. That said the volumetric efficiency of the engine is static, so you'll always need "XX" parts per million of fuel. The only variable is air density. The greater the air density, the more fuel, and vice versa. You'll reduce your engine life in no time running less oil to fuel regardless of the brand of oil premix if you let that engine scream. You're not getting additional fuel in the crankcase with a "thinner" fuel, unless of course you're running a fatter fuel mixture to air. I hope this makes sense and am happy to have further dialogue.
It's important to consider the application motocross racing a 125 is not the same as using a trials bike. For most of the Enduro riding that Kyle does the standard mix ratio recommended by the oil manufacturer works. If you're racing use more oil if your putt putting you can use less. Remember to that spooge is not caused by too much oil it's caused by running too rich.
My statement is not scientific by any means but I can say this for a fact... For many years on my 2000 KTM 300 I've used motorex 50 to 1 ratio, it ran good/ok, then I decided to try Amsoil saber (from a friends request) at 80 to 1 wow, what a difference!! virtually no spuge/smoke and the bike runs crisp clean and hard! Obviously because of this performance, i have been using sabre at 80: 1 for two straight seasons now of hard riding, therefore i will not use any other oil at any other ratio period! But i still have to change my rear tire every 5-6 rides (gladly!) This is my personal experience without breaking down the laws of thermo dynamics as with metal degradation..
I agree with the application! My bike (2003 Cr250 that I run the Honda HP2 at 32:1) and currently how she's jetted doing MX she runs perfect with little sponge. However, when I run the same oil, similar conditions, but trail riding I get a lot more sponge and she gets back up if I don't get a section to clear her out. I do want to try some Moltul @ 50:1 when trail riding and I think this would help for my trail riding plus it would be fun to try it!
I've see a lot of people use baby bottles to put oil in because they have accurate measuring right on them plus they are small so one bottle equals one fill up. That way you can run whatever oil you want in a convient accurate measuring bottle.
I run the manufactures recommended Oil at 60:1 on my 17 TE 300 exactly like the manual said because I have no imagination and figured the manufacturer has their shit together.
I guess you could always just get a bunch of small bottles and pre-measure whatever oil you wanted to use to get the same convenience. Would probably save some money that way being able to buy in larger containers.
Good video Kyle, When I first bought my Beta 300RR I used mogul at 50:1. I saw videos from yourself as well as others racing about Amsoil Saber. I did tons of research before trying it, I was really nervous with the suggested ratios. I started using it with 10 hrs on my bike and now have over 60. I love this stuff, super easy to mix with the little bottles and I keep a couple 1.5 oz foil packs in my pack. Each pack works perfect for 1 gal of fuel in case I need to top off and don't have mixed fuel with me.
In my KTM XCW 200, Motul 710 at 50:1 without issues for years and also use that same ratio with my Echo leaf blower/weed eater 👍🏻👍🏻. Occasionally I’ll throw in some stripper glitter, WD40 and fairy dust 😁
...two more tips that apply: #1) 2 stokes do NOT play well with ethanol so avoid E 85, although methanol does work very well as do nitromethane/alcohol blends. REJET necessary!! #2) If you're not sure if that particular engine is gonna be run for a while, add about 1/4 oz./gallon Sta-Bil to the 'tank', shake it up, fire it up, let it run a few minutes. It'll be good for about 1 1/2 years! I just put Sta-Bil in anyway (most of the time), that way you never get the dreaded "green float bowl", especially on the generators! : )'
As a 10 year Amsoil Dealer and a Saber user myself, I want to that you for explaining this better. My chain saw and weed trimmer run great at 80 to 90 to 1.
This is a good start, just bought my son a Suzuki 85 2018, brand new first time with a two strokes dirt bike. Not my first rodeo. My first son had a Honda 80 4-stroke. But this one is a whole new world. Gas mixture is very different, not only by with the recommendation specs for for oil from of the manufacturer. I want to find something that works overall and this is definitely is a good start. My neighbor who did Motocross with two strokes said have lots of spark plugs 🤣. you have to become a chemist at some point but don't let it over welm you.thank you for your video.
It's funny how these oils are so different. I read a article where Motocross action magazine built a 2017 KTM 350 and could not ever get it jetted without the help of a JD kit. A KTM engineer read their article and gave them a call and asked what oil they were using and it was Maxima K2. He told the to run it at 60:1 and it would purr, so they took the JD kit out and put it back to stock. To there surprise it ran just like the engineer said it would. Maxima K2 only says up to 50:1. I think everyone will have to find what works best for them.
With the newer bikes coming out that have the oil tank with no pre-mixing what oil would you run? I would think the bike would mix at the same ratio regardless of what oil you put in the tank. I wonder what ratio they set the bike up to run! Maybe you could do some research and do a video on this.
KYLE,IN THE 60S I WAS RIDING A GREEVES 250 ,I USED AN OIL CALLED POLY-OXIDE,IT LOOKED JUST LIKE ATF FLUID,I MIXED IT 40 TO 1 AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM OR A FOULED PLUG..IT WAS O GREAT BIKE..HAPPY NEW YEAR KYLE AND FAMILY..GREETINGS FROM THE PHILIPPINES
I found out it also depends on the type of riding.Motul (or Putoline) 50:1 - 40:1 When I take my 300exc to a motocross track and max 60:1 when I'm messing around on rocks and hard/slow stuff. Otherwise the sparkplugs tend to foul up.
Anybody else surprised not seeing castor 927 or golden Spectro? I’ve used golden spectro for years with 0 issues. I’ve had more people tell me about castor then motul or amsoil combined. But besides that thanks for the video👍
Thanks fella, I've been Youtubing for a decade at least and had never noticed the little bell, lol, great vid'. I remember when the 'garage attendant' would fill up for you, and add the correct amount of Castrol.
+1 on the Amsoil - it is good clean running oil. I prefer the Dominator, simply because Amsoil directs you to it. I know a lot of guys who run the Saber though with fine results. Did a top end job on my '13 TE 300 and after 200 plus hours, the engine looked great, the head was actually completely clean. A buddy runs Honda HP2 at 32:1 in his CR250. After a long period of techical stuff, we got out in the open desert. He is a fast rider and started going fast. I noticed a big plume of white smoke coming out of his exhaust and thought his engine had blown up. Turns out the excess oil spooge was burning off, like a diesel regenerating it's DPF - LMAO.
I have been running my 02 rm250 at 50:1, over 12 years, race from time to time. I have been building 2strokes since 72, I am 67. This bike is amazing, hardly smokes at all. Now with over 26 hours on this top end my ring leak down is less than 15 %. I run expert class when I do race. I laugh at these guys trying to tell me I can't race my 250 at 50:1.
Dont have a 2 stroke but this was very informative, thanks :) by the way, you could calculate the cost of the oil needed per gallon and refill those amsoil bottles with the most economical option, just a tip
I run amsoil saber at 100:1 and I have been for over 220 hours and I just switched the rings out and the top end bearings the piston looked amazing still. It's not going to make your bike blow up.
@@ColoRadoSNOWrider I trust no one who pays someone to do a 2 stroke top end. Do you have a pet monkey twist the throttle for you? Sorry but not sorry.
@@cheddarshredder6572 actually the bike runs way cleaner. It does require re jetting but man does it run crisp after. Its usually one size down on pilot and the needle/main can be adjusted from there. My bike ran on the same pistons and rings that I put in there writing that comment 2 years ago. Its been to 13,000 ft elevation for probably 500 miles and seen a lot of time at 700 ft just now can feel the rings starting to wear. All at 100:1 the oil is designed to be run at 100:1 its not like running an oil that is 30:1 at 100:1 that should make you cringe.
Just run what the manufacture recommends at the ratio that they say... guaranteed no problem. In a pinch you can run any 2 stroke oil at 32:1 and I'd be surprised if you seized. I've tried running richer just to be safe and ended up fouling plugs and being stranded on the trail. My point of reference is early 80s YZs in the early 80s.
What a lot of people don’t understand in 2 cycle engines is that the air fuel ratio and lubrication ratio are separate but do effect one another. If you put to much oil in the gas you will actually cause a lean air fuel ratio because the oil takes the place of gasoline. Yes read that again! So yes it is possible to put 10:1 in your 2 cycle cause a lean condition and blow the engine. It would have alot of lubrication but would run hot because of not enough fuel. Again it would be possible to run 10:1 if you jetted properly by adding more fuel. It can be a little difficult to wrap your head around but once you get it..it will make sense.
This is so true. Jet properly for the ratio you want to run. The bike will run great , you won’t foul plugs and no spooge will be coming out of the exhaust .
Excellent explanation of the oil mixtures. I didn't even put two and two together. I open the manual and used the recommended oil ratios. I didn't even think it "really" goes my the oil manufacturer, not the KTM manual. But, I still fell in the correct range for the AMS Oil I have been running! I will be looking into the Saber convenience. Thank you! Go KTM
I've always run Amsoil Dominator in my CR250 at 50:1. Easily putting 100+ hrs on each top end before rebuilding it without issues. I simply run the ratio that the manufacturer recommends. They're the ones who tested the oils and know what ratio they perform best at.
I agree, my rm250, 02 model 50:1 dominator, get out of my way telling me I will blow up my bike at 50:1 , it's ur bike squids that smokes like a freight train, u r the one fouling plugs, sure u get more power at that rich oil mix, on the dyno !!!!
I like 32:1. Working on old chainsaws and such that originally was 16:1 gives it good lube with newer formulas. And have seen many scared up cylinders from those using leaned out 100:1. Plus it lubs things that have been sitting around for years better.
Hey Kyle, can you incorporate more maintenance/ project videos in your list for future videos ? Then maybe like a similarities and differences video for 2-strokes and 4-strokes, for example: Gear oil/ trans fluid for 2-stroke compared to just motor oil in a 4-stroke or engine rebuild differences between 2-stroke & 4-stroke. Things like that. Basically shop talks. Love the channel.
I race A-SSR. On a 2002 ktm 300 , run AMSOIL Interceptor 80:1 for 10 years on the same bike. 1 set of rings so far and my compression is 190. With Factory jets and have never changed the spark plug. 2 strokes are awesome. I never mix it in the tank. If i had to, i would shake it up a lot before opening the petcock. I like the crisp throttle response and less smoke with the lean mixture.
I guess many people loved this video because they know they can save some ounces which they like. What he explained made sense according to the oils, but what about the machines, our 2 strokes, how little oil can they resist, actually???
i'm not a petroleum engineer but i have read a lot of oil breakdown articles since i am a bit of a car nut specifically drag racing. After reading an independent article by a guy who was testing hundreds of oils in oil breakdown under heat and pressure with professional lab equipment i would suggest running the racing specific oils. ESPECIALLY in the summer when the temps are significantly hotter and stress on the engine is greater and the oil plays a much more significant role in engine protection. Oil is not a simple subject and the true contents of the oils are not on the labels. Racing specific oil will perform better even if you don't notice it. With oils as long as you are buying decent quality oils you are playing long ball. A better oil may last longer and offer more protection you just might not know it until a couple hundred hours.
cant find the original article i read but here is a very information intensive article written by a Mechanical Engineer working completely independently. 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ this article is all about 4 stroke engine oils , but i am looking for one for two strokes.
I am preaching this and using oil 100-1 since 1970.Finally somebody else can explane what I am saying for many years.I am just using Optimol oil but its the same idea.
Experience tells me that a lean 65:1 synthetic oil mixture produces better cylinder cooling, higher torque and a noticeable reduction of pre-ignition on my 1980 Yamaha DT175G in comparison of a 40:1 mineral oil mixture. Try it.
Best video on this topic ever. You made it very clear as to what the oil was designed to run but some people just can’t wrap their heads around why the manufacturers made it that way. Thanks
I was running maxima super M at 60:1 and the plug would like wet, oily, and sooty. Went back to Yamaha recommended 30:1 and now I have a perfect brown plug, with not jetting changes. I'm actually running a leaner jet than what's recommended. I can understand why oil manufacturers suggest running at their higher dilution ratios, but for some reason, Yamaha YZ250 likes it between 30:1 and 40:1.
@ min. 1:27-1:49 he states that more oil per gas, has a harder time getting thru. the jets which leans air/fuel ratio. I contend that the leaner Air fuel ratio does happen, but more likely, the Oil does not burn same as gasoline does, which makes the engine run or act lean. OK I am splitting hairs here but this is the actual deal as told to me by 2strk. engine builder. Either way, results are the same. Experts correct me if I am wrong.
I have done 2 top ends in my 08 ktm 300 and have run amsoil saber at 90 to 1 for over 200 hours and never had a problem. However, I'm not revving the bike out a ton.
I run a full synthetic with 20% bean oil in the summer. Maxima Castor927 or Klotz Super TP. I think they are fairly equivalent, but I find better prices on occasion for the Klotz STP. These are not said to have good cold storage or off season corrosion resistance, so in the fall when it gets cooler I switch to the Amsoil Interceptor. Amsoil CS says the Saber is for garden tools, though I don't know why it would make any difference. Maybe it's just the same stuff marketed differently. (I've used the Amsoil 100:1 (@80:1) in all my two stroke implements for many, many years with no problem.) The Dominator is said to be race oriented and does not have the off season corrosion resistance that the Interceptor has. I run a CR500 with no exhaust power valve at 44:1. The Dominator is also said by Amsoil to be more for racing all out, and can lead to more crude build up on the power valve in other applications. I believe they recommend the Interceptor for power valve applications. As for smell you can't beat the 927 or Klotz STP, though the Amsoil injector oil I ran in my TS185 smelled pretty good as well.
Funny you should mention. I use a used two stroke oil bottle over and over to measure my oil because measuring cups are messy and hard to clean that sticky two stroke oil out of.
You ever try dumonde tech oils? Not many people outside of Washington know about them. It's a company based out of Washington state. Their oil is really good! I run their full synthetic in my yz250's at 40:1 with a 50/50 ratio of pump gas and race fuel. My bikes have never ran so good. And it's a damn near smokeles oil. Perfect for my woods bike. I used maxima 927 for years. I never cared for the synthetic stuff until I tried dumonde tech. They make great gear box oil too. They also make a semi synthetic and a bean oil. Try it out, you won't be disappointed.
This absolute madlad is running 100:1 in his dirtbike. On a more serious note. I usually run semi synthetic lucas oil 2 cycle oil in my 02 rm250 at 32:1 with the occasional off brand oil if im in a pinch. However im considering switching to a 40:1 ratio because of how much oil jas been in my exhaust. Just as a small caveat to that is i use my rm for motocross so i assume i spend more time at wot than you probably do.
I ran my kids' KTMs 50s and 65s at 50:1 because that's what the manual said and the convenience in metric system is excellent, a 5 liter canister needs 100cc oil. Now the kids have 85s, the boy has a Yamaha YZ and the girl has a Suzuki RM. Both bikes' user manuals say to run them at 30:1. However both my kids are not revving the bikes enough and at 30:1 there is a mess in the exhaust pipe, it spits oil like no one business, both bikes. I now run them sometimes at 40:1 and sometimes at 50:1 with Motorex oil, the oil spit is now "normal", but I am always scared I am going to damage the bikes, specially the Yamaha we bought new.
I never knew this! Makes sense. Thank you for the info. I ordered the motion pro oil ratio mixer container you recommended in one of your other videos. Really like it, thanks again.
So dirt bike magazine did a test a long time ago of different 2 stroke oils at different ratios on a dyno to see if there was any performance advantage from a leaner gas/oil mix. Almost no added gain in power. The only thing your doing is starving the engine of oil!
Excellent points but we work in metric (Milliliters/Ml) here in the UK 40:1 = 1000 divided by 40 = 25...........so 25ml to every liter 80:1 = 1000 divided by 80 + 12.5.......so 12.5ml to every liter The higher the ratio number....basically the less two stroke oil goes in ( I initially thought it the other way around )
@@leefletcher660 Usually 25ml of Fully Synthetic "Quality MX Purpose" Two Stroke Oil to every Liter of Petrol/Gas. Sometimes the instructions on the bottle advise a unit/amount but if in doubt ask your nearest KTM dealer. I live in the UK (South Wales) and my nearest dealer supplied me with "Motorex Fully Synthetic" Two stroke Oil £15
@@leefletcher660 Snap. Bought my KTM250Exc "2004" a few weeks back and have drained all the old fuel out and put fresh in. Took the tank off, gave it a good shake and was surprised how much gunk was sitting in it. But yea, I'm running mine at 40:1 which is 25ml to every liter. I know there are cheap two stroke oils out there for chainsaws and mowers, and will be avoiding those.
i use the royal purple full synthetic 2 stroke oil at 32:1, one of the engines has run for years without any noticable loss of power or compression, its such a good oil
I've noticed. Running high octane fuel run richer. I try to run as much oil as possible and still get a clean burn. I do this to get the most lubrication possible and get the most hours out of an engine. I'm using maxima 927 32:1. When i use to use honda premix a long time ago, apon rebuild, the crank had a light film of rust on it. That was the last time i used it.
Listen I'm sad too, if you look up the SDS for Dominator racing (Compliant SDS 04/15/2017), it shows it only has 25-40% Synthetic ester and the rest is mineral oil. Same with Interceptor. Hey, listen, I'm running Interceptor right now, I'm getting a buzz off it going through my carb here now. I got some klotz in stock recently :P
Running rich means a higher fuel to air ratio and is determined by your ecu, mix your fuel and oil as per the instructions on the bottle and u won’t foul plugs, every brand of two stroke oil can be a little different. Motorex is 60:1 Racing plugs won’t foul as quick as well, put a good quality plug in it
All those used Amsoil 8oz and 3.5oz bottles you end up with could solve your problem with the other brands - fill them back up with Motul or Motorex or any other brand, relabel them and then you can have the other oils in the volume you need wherever you go.
hey Kyle I was wondering with oil injection how would this work then? can you adjust it on the bike or is it able to adjust itself. honestly have no idea. great video never knew that about 2 stroke oil
Having raced 2 strokes from 1994-2006 when it became almost impossible to win on one, I have seen people use 100:1 at the track. I am not so brave. 32:1 to 50:1 is what I used. It never seems to matter what the ratio is, it all works. You will never regret using Yamalube is my motto. And viscosity of gas/oil is not a factor with the main jet, not even at 16:1
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I run 1:1.
I roll coal in on my yz250
GunsCarsBikeCigars lol
Same lol
Same I usually use 50-1 Stijl oil with shell diesel at 2-1. Low down power
Wym coal in?
Zechariah Stanley watch a diesel truck video
If you are mixing in the tank, close fuel petcock first, so the heavier oil does not run straight into your carb.
thanks
I learned that the hard way 35 years ago.
john bailey I also learned that the hard way
Thanks for the tip.
I ussaly put the gas in 1st so I was thinkin about that whole thing
I read up on the classifications. I've compared a lot of oils and the truth is almost all brands has the same ratings and specs. Read up on ratings, not on if it says "racing pro extreme" or not.
Honestly I’m afraid to run anything in the high ratios after only running 32:1 my whole life ..
same haha
ive been running my 01 cr250 and 91 kdx250 50:1 with sthill oil, opti, and sometimes what ever is at the gas station. trails. no more fouling plugs all the time.
@@daverobins182 yeah i keep fouling plugs I'm going to try 50:1
@@jozefnoch5346 what did u run before
You're used to shit oil
Anyone remember the days of 20:1? My first Suzuki PE175 was at that ratio. I think it kept the mosquitoes of your back😂
And in c.1960 motor oil was recommened
30-40wt
i remember some dude on a little fishing boat running an engine like that. He was nearly totally hidden in the smoke cloud as he was trolling around the lake.
Had a number of friends with the KDX200. Mostly from Jeff Fredette
lol, yes 20:1 and you just reminded me how old I am; thanks
yeah :))) well - that was also what the CR500 s demanded if you used mineral oil !!! good times those were.....
I watched this for my 2 stroke chainsaw! Totally answered the info I was after. Thank you
I run Coconut oil in my machine, just warm the gas up with a blow dryer on cold days
Matt G Organic?
That's stuff gels below 76 F. You telling me gelled coconut oil dissolves in gasoline? I must see this.
This is gold. Just bought a modern two stroke KTM 250sx. The last two stroke I had was in the early nineties, and times have changed. Thanks for the content!
Thanks for the vid! For my street legal CR500 I usually pre-measure out Amsoil Dominator oil at 3.2 fluid oz into 8 oz. plastic bottles (easiest to find locally for me). Carry 4 with me in a ziplock bag inside my backpack. Ratio comes out to 40:1. I only have a 2 gallon tank so this is convenient to separate out by each gallon. I just have to stop about every 30 miles and add a gallon to make sure the next gas station won't be a problem. I have found a few 3.2 oz containers of weed whacker grade 2 stroke oil that I use as well. After I use it up on the whacker, I refill with appropriate oil for my CR. I do the same thing with pre-measured Klotz octane booster too. Most gas stations around me only offer 91, which runs fine, but I feel better giving my bike a little more octane.
Cr500 on the tarmac that would be fun 🤙
Love that you’ve had to make a video justifying your decision to use Sabre, lol. I’ve used Amsoil in my bike at 85:1 for years with zeeeero issues. Cylinders, pistons, bottoms ends having always been mint when I open the engine up. For me.....Sabre is by far the easiest, most cost effective high quality oil you can run. The small 236 ml bottle is perfect for mixing a 20L gas can.
Hey would you change the oil ratio to a 60 or 70:1 . If you were in the bush just cruizing along. Rather then track ridding where you would be okay with a 85:1
Klotz is what I use, I mix at a 32:1 ratio. It smells sweet and runs prime have worked and currently works for me
Run KLOTZ at 50 to 1
Geocentric good read, makes a lot of sense , I think I’m going to stop using yamalube in my yz 125 after reading your piece, where I ride a lot at my place I don’t / can’t stay on the pipe a lot and I’m seeing a bit spooge and plug gets a tad wet but never fouls out, but want to try eliminate spooge, sounds like it’s caused by the oil I’m using at spec ratio 32:1, any thoughts on that ?
@@simonriley9378 spooge is a result of a rich fuel mixture not mix ratio. Lean out the jetting.
@@simonriley9378 you ever take your top end off the next day after you've run klotz? You'll find the entire engine has a coating of red rust on everything kind of a brownish red.... Tell him to the ball bearings in the lower end still crankshaft flyer Wheels you're connecting rod maybe that's why they tell you that drain the whole fuel system flush out the motor every time you turn it off cuz I'll never run that clock s*** again after seeing all that.. the young lady bar never left any deposits of carbon or anything else parts were like shiny metal if you just take him out of the package.... Delray wasn't too bad but it would leave deposits on the piston and a combustion chamber in the cylinder head... I don't want the viscosity is today on the Yamaha.. because it is about like 90 weight gear oil and you're running 50 to 1
I was using Yamalube, and 32:1 and because of your videos I wanted to Try Amsoil SAber.. Well I was cautious about running 80:1 or 100:1 so I mixed the oil 60:1 to start. I tried starting the Bike and Immediately fouled the plug and the bike wouldnt run. So I mixed the gas at 80:1 changed the plug, and the Bike runs Great..
Your Videos on (WHY) the oils are mixed at specific ratios are awesome. I had no Idea before why there were different ratios. Now I know.. Thanks
Hey Kyle, love the channel! FYI, from what I understand, you are correct that a richer fuel oil mix (32:1 vs. 100:1) will result in a leaner fuel air mixture, however, in all practicality it's not because the mix becomes harder to pass through the jets. A richer fuel oil mix contains less gas molecules in a given volume (because oil is occupying or replacing the gas) and as we know, less gas per a given air volume equals a leaner fuel air mix.
John J I was thinking the exact same thing as I was watching the video
You are correct John. Oil doesn't combust the way gasoline does. This in effect leans out the mixture. My accolade - I work for a turbo snowmobile kit company.
I agree JJ
You are correct here was thinking same thing when I heard Kyle say that.
i believe its a combination of the two actually try pouring 1oz of oil through a hole and then try pouring a ounce of gas, more oil creates more drag
From the Motul 710 datasheet:
RECOMMENDATIONS
Mixing ratio: from 2% to 4% (from 50:1 to 25:1) according to manufacturers' requirements.
Adjust according to your own use.
take note it says "RECOMMENDATIONS
"
2017 Husqvarna TX 300 50hrs on Amsoil Saber @ 80:1. Runs perfect. No lubrication issues and no carbon buildup. Great product.
Jeff Scott what type of riding? Do you rev hard for extended amounts of time or chill trail rides?
Both. Have spent hours on technical single track and have race some HS and desert races in sand and silt where you are on the rev limiter all the time. I just pulled the pipe to do some maintenance and there was about 0.5 mm of carbon buildup on the bottom of the manifold @ 60 hrs. It wiped right off and the rest was clean. It actually looks a little rich but the Saber is made to be used at 100:1 to I expect a little extra carbon and spooge at 80:1.
Kyle, I wanted to take a moment and thank you for thought provoking videos. A while ago I caught your video on 2 stroke oil premix. You and I had an email dialogue. After our dialogue I began doing a ton of research on 2 stroke premix. I would like to say this is what I found. A couple of extra ounces more or a couple of ounces less will have a negligible affect on gasoline viscosity. You claim that the reason you run a higher ratio of gasoline to premix is due to the lubrication properties of the premix. This isn't the major reason you have success running less premix to gasoline. The greatest reason is the RPM's at which the engines spend most of their time. What I learned was that even the new fuel injected KTM's inject almost zero oil premix when idling. Then as the RPM's increase so does the amount of oil that is injected. This is to protect the engine parts at extreme temperatures and force. Now in a dirt bike that requires you to premix the oil and fuel, you don't have the luxury of variable Oil to fuel ratios, so you have use a ratio that best works for your bike/conditions. Since you're doing a great deal of single track riding the engine isn't spending most of its time in the upper RPM range most of the time. The engine isn't screaming nonstop like an MX bike does. Albeit the ratios you run work for you and your bikes, it isn't as much a condition of the grade of premix, but more a condition of the type of riding and RPM range you run at. At higher RPM's you need a thicker film of lubrication on the bearings, rings, etc. When a manufacturer recommends a premix ratio, the engineers select this premix ratio based on max RPM and insuring extending engine life. In short you're able to use less oil with strong results due to the lower RPM's your engines mostly run at and not the type/grade of oil you run. The other thing to consider is how well the rings seal especially at higher RPM's. The premix plays an important role here. The less oil in the fuel the thinner the film of oil on the cylinder walls/rings and that reduces compression especially at higher RPM's. Anyway, I wanted to share what I learned, and I did all of this research due to you getting my brain going. Also AFR is AFR, Running a thinner fuel or a thicker won't change the amount of lubrication. I say this because if the engine begins getting more fuel, or too much fuel, you'll need to lean out the fuel air ratio. If the engine is getting less fuel or too little, then you'll have to fatten up the mixture. At the end of the day the ideal AFR is somewhere between 12:1 to 14.5:1 Air Fuel Ratio. You can't run leaner without melting something down and you can't run richer without affecting performance negatively, You can't run a "thinner" fuel and believe you're getting more lubrication. The volumetric efficiency of the engine is static for arguments sake. That said, you'll need "X" amount of fuel for each revolution of the engine to maintain a specific Air Fuel Ratio. The mass of the fuel is more important than the volume. XX parts per million of air to YY parts per million of fuel. That said the volumetric efficiency of the engine is static, so you'll always need "XX" parts per million of fuel. The only variable is air density. The greater the air density, the more fuel, and vice versa. You'll reduce your engine life in no time running less oil to fuel regardless of the brand of oil premix if you let that engine scream. You're not getting additional fuel in the crankcase with a "thinner" fuel, unless of course you're running a fatter fuel mixture to air. I hope this makes sense and am happy to have further dialogue.
It's important to consider the application motocross racing a 125 is not the same as using a trials bike. For most of the Enduro riding that Kyle does the standard mix ratio recommended by the oil manufacturer works. If you're racing use more oil if your putt putting you can use less. Remember to that spooge is not caused by too much oil it's caused by running too rich.
My statement is not scientific by any means but I can say this for a fact... For many years on my 2000 KTM 300 I've used motorex 50 to 1 ratio, it ran good/ok, then I decided to try Amsoil saber (from a friends request) at 80 to 1 wow, what a difference!! virtually no spuge/smoke and the bike runs crisp clean and hard! Obviously because of this performance, i have been using sabre at 80: 1 for two straight seasons now of hard riding, therefore i will not use any other oil at any other ratio period! But i still have to change my rear tire every 5-6 rides (gladly!) This is my personal experience without breaking down the laws of thermo dynamics as with metal degradation..
I agree with the application! My bike (2003 Cr250 that I run the Honda HP2 at 32:1) and currently how she's jetted doing MX she runs perfect with little sponge. However, when I run the same oil, similar conditions, but trail riding I get a lot more sponge and she gets back up if I don't get a section to clear her out.
I do want to try some Moltul @ 50:1 when trail riding and I think this would help for my trail riding plus it would be fun to try it!
I also agree with you need to run what the bottle says. lol. The oil make up is different at a recommended 32:1 vs an oil that recommends 50:1.
spooge can be caused by running too much oil it happens if you use lower rpm a lot as it doesn't make enough heat to burn the oil
I've see a lot of people use baby bottles to put oil in because they have accurate measuring right on them plus they are small so one bottle equals one fill up. That way you can run whatever oil you want in a convient accurate measuring bottle.
Anthony Keller yes, of that oil manufacturer specifications of whatever it is used for..just logic
use med bottle
That's a great idea. Save money buying in bulk, and saves plastic bottles going into landfills I mean "recycling centers".
I run the manufactures recommended Oil at 60:1 on my 17 TE 300 exactly like the manual said because I have no imagination and figured the manufacturer has their shit together.
Please share more on how fuel-types and mix ratios relate. Great video, thanks.
I run mine on spoiled Kombucha and olive oil 100/1 😬
Z Shark mmmm. Bet that smells so good
hi there i notice you siting on a kdx in your profile photo
what oil and ratio do you use besides the extra virgin oliver oil?
thanks
I've been running Amsoil dominator 50/1.. As thats what it recommends. I just bought a gallon of the amsoil saber.. but haven't switched over yet.
I am thinking on switch to saber
Please let me know you experience
Thanks
Pixie 🧚♀️ dust and Stripper Glitter ✨ adds that extra punch 😎
Evvverything I wanted to know about 2-stroke oil (the "fuel" oil, to be clear), you covered here so succinctly. Thank you a TON, Kyle.
I guess you could always just get a bunch of small bottles and pre-measure whatever oil you wanted to use to get the same convenience. Would probably save some money that way being able to buy in larger containers.
you could just save the bottle?
Ktm ppl
There aren't enough dirtbike lovers out there Kyle. You deserve way more subs. Quality content.
Good video Kyle,
When I first bought my Beta 300RR I used mogul at 50:1. I saw videos from yourself as well as others racing about Amsoil Saber.
I did tons of research before trying it, I was really nervous with the suggested ratios.
I started using it with 10 hrs on my bike and now have over 60.
I love this stuff, super easy to mix with the little bottles and I keep a couple 1.5 oz foil packs in my pack. Each pack works perfect for 1 gal of fuel in case I need to top off and don't have mixed fuel with me.
In my KTM XCW 200, Motul 710 at 50:1 without issues for years and also use that same ratio with my Echo leaf blower/weed eater 👍🏻👍🏻. Occasionally I’ll throw in some stripper glitter, WD40 and fairy dust 😁
Where do you buy stripper glitter at, or do you get it direct from the source?
Neumeister Animal Hospital younger days from the source 🤪
...two more tips that apply: #1) 2 stokes do NOT play well with ethanol so avoid E 85, although methanol does work very well as do nitromethane/alcohol blends. REJET necessary!! #2) If you're not sure if that particular engine is gonna be run for a while, add about 1/4 oz./gallon Sta-Bil to the 'tank', shake it up, fire it up, let it run a few minutes. It'll be good for about 1 1/2 years! I just put Sta-Bil in anyway (most of the time), that way you never get the dreaded "green float bowl", especially on the generators! : )'
As a 10 year Amsoil Dealer and a Saber user myself, I want to that you for explaining this better. My chain saw and weed trimmer run great at 80 to 90 to 1.
This is a good start, just bought my son a Suzuki 85 2018, brand new first time with a two strokes dirt bike. Not my first rodeo. My first son had a Honda 80 4-stroke. But this one is a whole new world. Gas mixture is very different, not only by with the recommendation specs for for oil from of the manufacturer. I want to find something that works overall and this is definitely is a good start. My neighbor who did Motocross with two strokes said have lots of spark plugs 🤣. you have to become a chemist at some point but don't let it over welm you.thank you for your video.
Pour what ever oil you run into a small bottle to cary.problem solved.
Yeap exactly, just used and old bottle or like I do since I start riding in the 80. Baby bottle
Klotz! And they make a candle, when your not riding .
77 yamaha rd400 75 rwhp on klotz supertechniplate 80/20
KieranMckean I thought even that 20% was bad for power valves?
What they make a candle too!!! Usually I just have to start my kx250 every 15 mins inside the house
@@bradley1995 what year? Just got a sweet deal on a 92 model myself from a friend.
I run Klotz, in my bike and in my R/C nitro. That Klotz smell with the nitro is heaven.
It's funny how these oils are so different. I read a article where Motocross action magazine built a 2017 KTM 350 and could not ever get it jetted without the help of a JD kit. A KTM engineer read their article and gave them a call and asked what oil they were using and it was Maxima K2. He told the to run it at 60:1 and it would purr, so they took the JD kit out and put it back to stock. To there surprise it ran just like the engineer said it would. Maxima K2 only says up to 50:1. I think everyone will have to find what works best for them.
I saw the same article. But 60:1 still scares me. 09 300 xcw e. Gold spectro oil, 40:1.
The most surprising part about all that is that MXA would admit to having difficulty doing anything.
I can see a lot of oil injection and tpi bikes blowing up due to the injection system not knowing what oil is in the oil tank!
I think they'd just run overly rich. Mixing 32:1 with quality synthetic will just a waste oil and smoke (I think).
With the newer bikes coming out that have the oil tank with no pre-mixing what oil would you run? I would think the bike would mix at the same ratio regardless of what oil you put in the tank. I wonder what ratio they set the bike up to run! Maybe you could do some research and do a video on this.
KYLE,IN THE 60S I WAS RIDING A GREEVES 250 ,I USED AN OIL CALLED POLY-OXIDE,IT LOOKED JUST LIKE ATF FLUID,I MIXED IT 40 TO 1 AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM OR A FOULED PLUG..IT WAS O GREAT BIKE..HAPPY NEW YEAR KYLE AND FAMILY..GREETINGS FROM THE PHILIPPINES
My manual for my yz 125 recommends 32-1 so that's what I'm going to mix it at, listen to your manual.
I found out it also depends on the type of riding.Motul (or Putoline) 50:1 - 40:1 When I take my 300exc to a motocross track and max 60:1 when I'm messing around on rocks and hard/slow stuff. Otherwise the sparkplugs tend to foul up.
Anybody else surprised not seeing castor 927 or golden Spectro? I’ve used golden spectro for years with 0 issues. I’ve had more people tell me about castor then motul or amsoil combined. But besides that thanks for the video👍
I've been using Golden Spectro at 50:1 for over 35 years. Never had a problem with it, so I will never use anything else.
Thanks fella, I've been Youtubing for a decade at least and had never noticed the little bell, lol, great vid'.
I remember when the 'garage attendant' would fill up for you, and add the correct amount of Castrol.
You seized a piston in your CR250 with this oil and this ratio.... Thats just something to keep in mind lol
🙄🙄🙄 it was something else that did that
+1 on the Amsoil - it is good clean running oil. I prefer the Dominator, simply because Amsoil directs you to it. I know a lot of guys who run the Saber though with fine results. Did a top end job on my '13 TE 300 and after 200 plus hours, the engine looked great, the head was actually completely clean.
A buddy runs Honda HP2 at 32:1 in his CR250. After a long period of techical stuff, we got out in the open desert. He is a fast rider and started going fast. I noticed a big plume of white smoke coming out of his exhaust and thought his engine had blown up. Turns out the excess oil spooge was burning off, like a diesel regenerating it's DPF - LMAO.
I have been running my 02 rm250 at 50:1, over 12 years, race from time to time. I have been building 2strokes since 72, I am 67. This bike is amazing, hardly smokes at all. Now with over 26 hours on this top end my ring leak down is less than 15 %. I run expert class when I do race. I laugh at these guys trying to tell me I can't race my 250 at 50:1.
Dont have a 2 stroke but this was very informative, thanks :)
by the way, you could calculate the cost of the oil needed per gallon and refill those amsoil bottles with the most economical option, just a tip
I run amsoil saber at 100:1 and I have been for over 220 hours and I just switched the rings out and the top end bearings the piston looked amazing still. It's not going to make your bike blow up.
@@ColoRadoSNOWrider I trust no one who pays someone to do a 2 stroke top end. Do you have a pet monkey twist the throttle for you? Sorry but not sorry.
100:1 makes me cringe. Poor piston and rings. Not to mention i bet jetting is tricky at that ratio
@@cheddarshredder6572 actually the bike runs way cleaner. It does require re jetting but man does it run crisp after. Its usually one size down on pilot and the needle/main can be adjusted from there. My bike ran on the same pistons and rings that I put in there writing that comment 2 years ago. Its been to 13,000 ft elevation for probably 500 miles and seen a lot of time at 700 ft just now can feel the rings starting to wear. All at 100:1 the oil is designed to be run at 100:1 its not like running an oil that is 30:1 at 100:1 that should make you cringe.
Just run what the manufacture recommends at the ratio that they say... guaranteed no problem. In a pinch you can run any 2 stroke oil at 32:1 and I'd be surprised if you seized. I've tried running richer just to be safe and ended up fouling plugs and being stranded on the trail. My point of reference is early 80s YZs in the early 80s.
@Christopher Villarreal - I don't know what that is.
If your fuel jetting is right you can run 10:1 and still have no carbon deposits and fowl no plugs,
Please dont base your plug fowling on your oil ratio, its fuel that fowls plugs for the most part
What a lot of people don’t understand in 2 cycle engines is that the air fuel ratio and lubrication ratio are separate but do effect one another. If you put to much oil in the gas you will actually cause a lean air fuel ratio because the oil takes the place of gasoline. Yes read that again! So yes it is possible to put 10:1 in your 2 cycle cause a lean condition and blow the engine. It would have alot of lubrication but would run hot because of not enough fuel. Again it would be possible to run 10:1 if you jetted properly by adding more fuel. It can be a little difficult to wrap your head around but once you get it..it will make sense.
This is so true. Jet properly for the ratio you want to run. The bike will run great , you won’t foul plugs and no spooge will be coming out of the exhaust .
Excellent explanation of the oil mixtures. I didn't even put two and two together. I open the manual and used the recommended oil ratios. I didn't even think it "really" goes my the oil manufacturer, not the KTM manual. But, I still fell in the correct range for the AMS Oil I have been running! I will be looking into the Saber convenience. Thank you! Go KTM
Word of the day " Lubricity"
I think he was looking for viscosity.
I've always run Amsoil Dominator in my CR250 at 50:1. Easily putting 100+ hrs on each top end before rebuilding it without issues. I simply run the ratio that the manufacturer recommends. They're the ones who tested the oils and know what ratio they perform best at.
I agree, my rm250, 02 model 50:1 dominator, get out of my way telling me I will blow up my bike at 50:1 , it's ur bike squids that smokes like a freight train, u r the one fouling plugs, sure u get more power at that rich oil mix, on the dyno !!!!
i have had issues and sorry for any trouble/.... your reviews R golden
I like 32:1. Working on old chainsaws and such that originally was 16:1 gives it good lube with newer formulas. And have seen many scared up cylinders from those using leaned out 100:1. Plus it lubs things that have been sitting around for years better.
Maxima K2 40:1 in my 300 and 70:1 in my trials bike. Also 100 octane VP. These mixtures work perfect on both bikes
Yamalube R. Quality, consistent and available just about everywhere. 40 to 1
Hey Kyle, can you incorporate more maintenance/ project videos in your list for future videos ? Then maybe like a similarities and differences video for 2-strokes and 4-strokes, for example: Gear oil/ trans fluid for 2-stroke compared to just motor oil in a 4-stroke or engine rebuild differences between 2-stroke & 4-stroke. Things like that. Basically shop talks. Love the channel.
I race A-SSR. On a 2002 ktm 300 , run AMSOIL Interceptor 80:1 for 10 years on the same bike. 1 set of rings so far and my compression is 190. With Factory jets and have never changed the spark plug. 2 strokes are awesome. I never mix it in the tank. If i had to, i would shake it up a lot before opening the petcock. I like the crisp throttle response and less smoke with the lean mixture.
Hey Kyle, great video. You didn't get into the big big bore. I run a 89 CR500 mostly in the woods, no racing. What do u recommend? Thanks
More oil is better then no oil, I'm just gunna fuckin send it
2016 Husqvarna Tc250 on Opti2 at 100:1. No smoke or fouled plugs, way better power. No engine wear.
I guess many people loved this video because they know they can save some ounces which they like. What he explained made sense according to the oils, but what about the machines, our 2 strokes, how little oil can they resist, actually???
I always run Motul 40:1 on both my 125 and 250. Runs great!
Bobby8451 would that ratio be okay for a yz85
Same oil
Yes.
Nice one dude. Make sense. Just got our first 2-stroke for our girl and was not sure how to run it... Cheers. Braaaap.
i'm not a petroleum engineer but i have read a lot of oil breakdown articles since i am a bit of a car nut specifically drag racing. After reading an independent article by a guy who was testing hundreds of oils in oil breakdown under heat and pressure with professional lab equipment i would suggest running the racing specific oils. ESPECIALLY in the summer when the temps are significantly hotter and stress on the engine is greater and the oil plays a much more significant role in engine protection. Oil is not a simple subject and the true contents of the oils are not on the labels. Racing specific oil will perform better even if you don't notice it. With oils as long as you are buying decent quality oils you are playing long ball. A better oil may last longer and offer more protection you just might not know it until a couple hundred hours.
if i can find the article i will post it. But it is a very lengthy very detailed and information intensive article.
cant find the original article i read but here is a very information intensive article written by a Mechanical Engineer working completely independently. 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
this article is all about 4 stroke engine oils , but i am looking for one for two strokes.
I am preaching this and using oil 100-1 since 1970.Finally somebody else can explane what I am saying for many years.I am just using Optimol oil but its the same idea.
I save the samll pre-measured bottles and then refill them with bulk oil
that saber oil cost 35% more in the little bottles
@@local378 It's like a plastic bottle of Coke. 90% of the cost is the bottle. I'vebeenrefilling these littel Stihl bottles for 12 years.
Thank you for clearing the air on this! You said it super simple and easy to understand
Experience tells me that a lean 65:1 synthetic oil mixture produces better cylinder cooling, higher torque and a noticeable reduction of pre-ignition on my 1980 Yamaha DT175G in comparison of a 40:1 mineral oil mixture. Try it.
Best video on this topic ever. You made it very clear as to what the oil was designed to run but some people just can’t wrap their heads around why the manufacturers made it that way. Thanks
Just noticed your tire shelves; very nice👌
I was running maxima super M at 60:1 and the plug would like wet, oily, and sooty. Went back to Yamaha recommended 30:1 and now I have a perfect brown plug, with not jetting changes. I'm actually running a leaner jet than what's recommended. I can understand why oil manufacturers suggest running at their higher dilution ratios, but for some reason, Yamaha YZ250 likes it between 30:1 and 40:1.
so you run through it more and keep buying it is my assumption but I could be wrong
@ min. 1:27-1:49 he states that more oil per gas, has a harder time getting thru. the jets which leans air/fuel ratio.
I contend that the leaner Air fuel ratio does happen, but more likely, the Oil does not burn same as gasoline does,
which makes the engine run or act lean. OK I am splitting hairs here but this is the actual deal as told to me by 2strk. engine builder. Either way, results are the same.
Experts correct me if I am wrong.
Buy Amsoil Saber, dump oil, keep container. Refill with decent oil. Win
Good Info, thanks Kyle!
I have done 2 top ends in my 08 ktm 300 and have run amsoil saber at 90 to 1 for over 200 hours and never had a problem. However, I'm not revving the bike out a ton.
More oil in gas = Leaner air/fuel mixture
It took me years to understand that.
I run a full synthetic with 20% bean oil in the summer. Maxima Castor927 or Klotz Super TP. I think they are fairly equivalent, but I find better prices on occasion for the Klotz STP. These are not said to have good cold storage or off season corrosion resistance, so in the fall when it gets cooler I switch to the Amsoil Interceptor. Amsoil CS says the Saber is for garden tools, though I don't know why it would make any difference. Maybe it's just the same stuff marketed differently. (I've used the Amsoil 100:1 (@80:1) in all my two stroke implements for many, many years with no problem.) The Dominator is said to be race oriented and does not have the off season corrosion resistance that the Interceptor has. I run a CR500 with no exhaust power valve at 44:1. The Dominator is also said by Amsoil to be more for racing all out, and can lead to more crude build up on the power valve in other applications. I believe they recommend the Interceptor for power valve applications. As for smell you can't beat the 927 or Klotz STP, though the Amsoil injector oil I ran in my TS185 smelled pretty good as well.
I carry a 8oz flask of oil, and the liquid medicine cup (1oz cup) for the long rides. 50:1 = 2 1/2 oz per gallon
So 10 oz for 2gallons?
@@jmtofficial0 no, 5oz per 2gallons
Funny you should mention. I use a used two stroke oil bottle over and over to measure my oil because measuring cups are messy and hard to clean that sticky two stroke oil out of.
You ever try dumonde tech oils? Not many people outside of Washington know about them. It's a company based out of Washington state. Their oil is really good! I run their full synthetic in my yz250's at 40:1 with a 50/50 ratio of pump gas and race fuel. My bikes have never ran so good. And it's a damn near smokeles oil. Perfect for my woods bike. I used maxima 927 for years. I never cared for the synthetic stuff until I tried dumonde tech. They make great gear box oil too. They also make a semi synthetic and a bean oil. Try it out, you won't be disappointed.
This absolute madlad is running 100:1 in his dirtbike. On a more serious note. I usually run semi synthetic lucas oil 2 cycle oil in my 02 rm250 at 32:1 with the occasional off brand oil if im in a pinch. However im considering switching to a 40:1 ratio because of how much oil jas been in my exhaust. Just as a small caveat to that is i use my rm for motocross so i assume i spend more time at wot than you probably do.
I ran my kids' KTMs 50s and 65s at 50:1 because that's what the manual said and the convenience in metric system is excellent, a 5 liter canister needs 100cc oil. Now the kids have 85s, the boy has a Yamaha YZ and the girl has a Suzuki RM. Both bikes' user manuals say to run them at 30:1. However both my kids are not revving the bikes enough and at 30:1 there is a mess in the exhaust pipe, it spits oil like no one business, both bikes. I now run them sometimes at 40:1 and sometimes at 50:1 with Motorex oil, the oil spit is now "normal", but I am always scared I am going to damage the bikes, specially the Yamaha we bought new.
Kyle, what mix do you run in your kids KTM 50SX and 65SX
I used the expensive stuff...then just finally went to Walmart, bought the cheap stuff and ran 20:1. Jetted for altitude and it worked fiiiiiiine.
Have fun cleaning that power valve
@@lenny3394 pretty easy
I never knew this! Makes sense. Thank you for the info. I ordered the motion pro oil ratio mixer container you recommended in one of your other videos. Really like it, thanks again.
Me and my friends are using Motul 710 at 60:1 on ours Beta and Gas Gas-es 300cc 2 Strokes without any problem.We ride enduro,trails,hillclimbs etc...
So dirt bike magazine did a test a long time ago of different 2 stroke oils at different ratios on a dyno to see if there was any performance advantage from a leaner gas/oil mix. Almost no added gain in power. The only thing your doing is starving the engine of oil!
Excellent points but we work in metric (Milliliters/Ml) here in the UK
40:1 = 1000 divided by 40 = 25...........so 25ml to every liter
80:1 = 1000 divided by 80 + 12.5.......so 12.5ml to every liter
The higher the ratio number....basically the less two stroke oil goes in ( I initially thought it the other way around )
Help me out
I have a ktm 250 xc 2015 how much oil shud i be putting in
@@leefletcher660 Usually 25ml of Fully Synthetic "Quality MX Purpose" Two Stroke Oil to every Liter of Petrol/Gas.
Sometimes the instructions on the bottle advise a unit/amount but if in doubt ask your nearest KTM dealer. I live in the UK (South Wales) and my nearest dealer supplied me with "Motorex Fully Synthetic" Two stroke Oil £15
@@trustnuffin9121 thanks alot im in the uk also northeast england newcastle jus bought bike cple of weeks ago
@@leefletcher660 Snap. Bought my KTM250Exc "2004" a few weeks back and have drained all the old fuel out and put fresh in. Took the tank off, gave it a good shake and was surprised how much gunk was sitting in it. But yea, I'm running mine at 40:1 which is 25ml to every liter. I know there are cheap two stroke oils out there for chainsaws and mowers, and will be avoiding those.
I have the motorex not going for cheap stuf mate best avoided
Running Klotz 42:1 and the scent is like heaven
the castor oil?
i use the royal purple full synthetic 2 stroke oil at 32:1, one of the engines has run for years without any noticable loss of power or compression, its such a good oil
My dad’s old Suzuki rl 250 trials bike was 20:1 and man that thing had spooge for days! Times have changed, that’s for sure.
Exactly right. This guys got brains!
I've noticed. Running high octane fuel run richer. I try to run as much oil as possible and still get a clean burn. I do this to get the most lubrication possible and get the most hours out of an engine. I'm using maxima 927 32:1. When i use to use honda premix a long time ago, apon rebuild, the crank had a light film of rust on it. That was the last time i used it.
Listen I'm sad too, if you look up the SDS for Dominator racing (Compliant SDS 04/15/2017), it shows it only has 25-40% Synthetic ester and the rest is mineral oil. Same with Interceptor. Hey, listen, I'm running Interceptor right now, I'm getting a buzz off it going through my carb here now.
I got some klotz in stock recently :P
Running rich means a higher fuel to air ratio and is determined by your ecu, mix your fuel and oil as per the instructions on the bottle and u won’t foul plugs, every brand of two stroke oil can be a little different. Motorex is 60:1
Racing plugs won’t foul as quick as well, put a good quality plug in it
I run 80:1 Amsoil Saber in my 300 XCW and all my lawn equipment. No issues ever.
All those used Amsoil 8oz and 3.5oz bottles you end up with could solve your problem with the other brands - fill them back up with Motul or Motorex or any other brand, relabel them and then you can have the other oils in the volume you need wherever you go.
I’m still entirely confused.
hey Kyle I was wondering with oil injection how would this work then? can you adjust it on the bike or is it able to adjust itself. honestly have no idea. great video never knew that about 2 stroke oil
I put leftover mix in my oilhead GS and it didn't care. The only fuel maintenance was putting injector cleaner in one time it was acting sluggish.
Having raced 2 strokes from 1994-2006 when it became almost impossible to win on one, I have seen people use 100:1 at the track. I am not so brave. 32:1 to 50:1 is what I used. It never seems to matter what the ratio is, it all works. You will never regret using Yamalube is my motto. And viscosity of gas/oil is not a factor with the main jet, not even at 16:1