Hantek Current Clamp CC65 Pro Tip for low current measurements
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Hantek Current clamp pro Tip. I will demonstrate how to use the Hantek AC/DC Current Clamp, and how to measure beyond the current range that it is specified for. This is a low cost current clamp that can be used with either an oscilloscope or DMM. #CC65, #Hantek #Current Clamp
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Thanks for the demonstration. I just received this clamp from AliExpress for about €40 shipped to the Netherlands after watching your previous videos about it. Only played around with it for a couple of minutes on my Micsig TO1104+ and it seemed to work as advertised after I finally realized how to properly degauss it. Doh! The only thing I don’t like about it is the lead, which is a bit too firm/cheap. Do you think it would be wise to replace it with a better coax lead? Could you also do a video about differential probes and when and why to use them? Micsig DP10013 High Voltage Differential Probes are relatively cheap and work as well as the far more expensive ones. Keep making these video’s they are very good for relative beginners like myself! Thumbs up!
Wow, it’s great to reach the Netherlands! I agree that the coax seems a bit cheep, but at this cost it’s hard to complain. I think it would be cool to change it out for a nice flexible one. I’ll look into it - that might make for a nice upgrade video. It’s funny, I was just looking at the Micsig diff probe by accident. I was looking at their current probe when I stumbled on it. Thank you for the support - I really appreciate it!
Hi there from Canada, thank you for taking the time to upload the intructional videos they are being appreciated. I bought this low amp clamp in hopes of measuring a wire guidance loop in the 180ma range. 6.7 khz ac sinusoidal signal without the need for breaking the loop as is being used 24/7 in an industrial wearhouse environment, so far my readings have been way off , I am confused by it , please shedd some light into this matter!!
Thank you a lot for making one more video about the current probe! :-)
I do not feel safe by using my multi meter, couplet directly to measure current, so I think that the current clamp is the best alternative, especially now where I have seen how to measure both low and high current. So thank you a lot!
You bet! I’m glad that it was helpful. Current probes are very safe.
Cool, just bought one. Thanks for the demo!
Thanks for the feedback! Let us know how you like it;) We might live in the same town;)
Great demo.. Thank you..
Debi Hansen I appreciate you!
Good video, Eddie.
Thank you !
Thanks for the great clear videos on this, I just bought one and the manual is useless
tablatronix Thanks! LOL The first thing I needed to do was figure out which direction the current went;) How do you like it so far?
Finally realizing why my CC-65 wouldn't pick up a current trace on either scope using one's SG. No load, no current. Doh! Looking to sync inductive (motor) current to V with a cap bank to improve power factor from .41 without doing the math for precise value in mfd. lol
LOL - thanks for your feedback!!
@@KissAnalog Not to carry on, but I used a 1w 28 ohm resistor and IIRC should have seen ~1/2w show up on either scope, a DVM, or my old VOMs. One bad one in a thou' OOB, lol but I'd recommend the CC-65 for hobby use, PF measurement/phase correction, automotive, etc.
Thank you for your videos. Can we use it on automotive diagnosis and see if 12v current is present in wires? Thanks from France.
alexi57 YW, and thank you for the question! Yes, this probe is good for both AC and dc measurements. I’m glad to hear from France. I’ve only been once, but loved it!
I've got one of those nice blue silicone work mats like you've got under your current measuring gear. Mine has embedded magnets in it to keep screws in the trays. It looks as if yours does too by the way the screws are hanging on on the right side. Wonder if it effected your results?
Thanks for the great current probe series. Looking to buy one for automotive and dc brushless motor controller work, and this has been helpful.
Thanks Scott! Mine has the magnets too. I'm curious to try placing the probes close to them to see the reaction;)
@@KissAnalog My CC-65 came in this morning. I just tried waving it near the mat magnets, and sure enough, it adds a fair amount of DC offset when the probe is held near the magnet pockets. (for 50 bucks, I doubt there's much mu metal shielding)
I like the CC-65 so far, it's impressive for the price, and so far I'm quite happy. It's well behaved and accurate enough. I noticed the degaussing circuit responds much better to quick hits than sustained press (a trick I picked up in the TV trade back in the days when TV techs had a degaussing coil on the bench). I do a fair amount of field and automotive work, and if I had a 2 grand probe go thru a fan or get soaked with hydraulic oil, it would be a bad day. The Hantek suits the job nicely. I'm wondering how well it behaves to high currents like auto starters? I may have to spring for the 650a model.
Thanks for the useful series of videos on the current probes most of us can justify owning.
Thanks for this great feedback!
@@KissAnalog I bought the big Hantek Probe as well, both are rugged, reliable and I use them in automotive work as well as industrial control. The pair (and the Hantek ignition probe) do a super quick and amazingly accurate relative compression test. They're easy enough to hook up that I often use them over the amprobes for routine FLA checks etc. Invested in 9v Lithium ion batteries with onboard chargers, so they are always ready to go, worst case I have to swap the batteries between them if I let one get down. 4 channel Scope is set up with a large home built 18650 pack that has USB outputs and Weller Wtcpn (THE best pencil ever made - the one with the Curie point magnetic control and enough wattage to put most guns to shame) soldering pencil, all with full isolation from the vehicle under test. Still have to watch for common grounds though.
Thanks!
Have you come across anything recently that is a better bang for the buck than this Hantek cc65? I’m wanting to pick one up and haven’t seen anything better in your more recent videos. Thx!
I didn’t give you very much information. I’m just doing low current hobby type stuff. Extreme accuracy and safety not really a concern.
Thanks Jay! I really think it is still the best low cost option.
can you please share the link to buy this adapter (probe to DMM), couldn't find it on Amazon. Thank you
Thanks for asking;) amzn.to/3ASaAyl
so if i messure 10 m volts on the scope do i put the setting for the probe to x10 to get the right reading in voltafe which will bve amps ?
Yes, but if the frequency is low enough, you can try 1x setting to see if it works better for the low voltages.
I have thought vaguely about gadgets that would help to simplify Automobile Servicing. A current clamp on the starter cable, voltage leads to battery, chassis, motor, could detect corrosion/bad contact, low-compression (impending valve/ring failure) in even one cylinder.
Far more comprehensive gadgets are readily available as black-boxes, either shabbily made or exorbitantly priced, or both.
I meant to remedy the situation by myself, for myself, but seeing the video on related matters, I felt it might generate interest and we could share our experiences and proceed faster. Anyone been there ? :-)
Sounds like some great ideas!! I’d be happy to help!
@@KissAnalog The current drawn for cranking is proportional to the engine's resistance to rotate, which is primarily from the compression. If any one cylinder has a poor compression, the cranking current will dip everytime that cylinder is in the compression stroke. A current clamp & DSO will detect it.
The battery voltage drops while cranking. This drop is more in an older battery.
If the motor voltage is less than battery voltage, then resistance of cables or connections is to blame.
With very non-intrusive electronic measurement, we could detect inefficiency in the engine & cranking in an early stage without spending time & labour on conventional compression tests & preventive maintenance.
Actual safe values & thresholds have to be determined by owner, they depend on his reliability requirements & vehicle design.
The tests would be simple enough to perform every month or so, to swiftly determine if any further attention is required.
This sounds very intriguing - I’m thinking about ways to help. I might have to ask more questions. This could be fun!
@@KissAnalog
There's a lot of info on the topic already on TH-cam, but it is from the perspective of the professional auto-workshop guy. They use special purpose Scopes & Probes, without the knowledge or curiosity of what is happening inside.
From the perspective of a car/bike owner (with engineering attitude) that's unhelpful. He would want to use whatever scope he has at hand (including sound-card of PC or phone) and make-shift DIY probes, and understand every bit of what he is doing and why
Drop me an email, nandan92 at gmail.com and we will synchronize in a jiffy
Just curious what the length of the wire lead is on the CC 65 low amp probe
Great question. The cable by itself if 3 feet, and then the connector is an additional 2.5 inches including the strain relief. It is also on sale now: amzn.to/3hqNlVQ
Do ya have enough tek meters hahaha. Theyre going up in value man.
Can a guy actually have enough? ;) Love the Tek multimeters;)
@KissAnalog I love them too man. I want that 1ghz 8gsa model that came out when my tds2002c did. You still see alot of people using it. I shall own it one day and pass on mine to you if you like
Thank you!
Why do you keep concluding that this is off 5:23, it says 7.25mA on the DMM from the 5mA input, and your Hantek shows 0.69v = 6.9mA ?? and you even say if you multiply it by 10x when it says 0.69v it is way too much..not really 6.9mA. ??
Jakob Yes you are right, the numbers were bouncing around a bit, but it was actually within 20%, so actually not too bad. It starts to fall off as there’s just not enough magnetic field to get a good reading. So even just wrapping the wire in two coils gives a more consistent and higher reading, but I should have tried degaussing again maybe instead of going near 20% high it would have been closer. Off camera I got better readings, but then filming there’s so much to consider, lighting, shadows, sound level and then camera and microphone batteries... great eye - thanks for asking;)
@@KissAnalog Sure and yep, It was n fact performing very good at that point. 5:23 and dancing around 0.65mW and 0.69mV though unsure what you take as reference the 5mA PSU or the 7.25mA from the meter, so 6.5mA or 6.9mA was certainly decent as the DMM is likely more on target..
I also just received it CC-65 with box..
picked it up from Aliexpress at around 45USD (incl. ship) so certainly not bad for such a cost, at first was looking to purchase the CC650 as that was only like 5 to 10 bucks more, but the sensitivity seems miles apart CC65 vs CC650, so decided to go for the CC-65 and lower noise-floor.
I had some problems with mine drifting a lot, but I then tested it away from other gears (like my laptop), and it was way more stable.
I used it yesterday with a new el-cheapo spot welder (18us) to see the waveform, but I only got like 18amp and 21 .5 amp readings and it was mainly the ms-length that varied while going up in effect and I would have though it would be the triple digits.
my scope has a current feature so the amp is chosen on the spot, the probe is at 10x (10mV=100mA) and taking load from a 4s LIPO cell from my old collective pith quadcopter (Stingray CL).
and there is certainly a lot of current taking effect as the leads get quite hot, and this current-bouncing effect when your spot-welding, so I really doubt that it is only 21.5amp, though at close to 16v (4s) its around 350watt.
Its this setup imgur.com/a/wo4v4Mz
but still wondering if it is accurate that the amp aint higher as I would reckon it should be a lot higher but Im still new to this..
thx for the vid.
Wow you have some nice equipment to have fun with;) Try putting it in 100x instead of 10x. It could be saturating. I think over 2 Amps it is better to be in 100x, especially if it is changing fast. A transient looks like high frequency.
He keep saying "degauss"...that button does not degauss nothing...maybe he does not know what degauss means; it just zero out the output of the amplifier...he is also talking about a transformer (current) inside the clamp...wrong again, it has two hall effect sensors.
Thanks for the feedback! It was a lot easier to explain the way I did, but yes it would be more accurate to spend more time to explain what hall effect sensors work. But practically - my explanation makes perfect sense in how it works. It acts as a degauser as in a way it is - it goes off zero because of the charges left behind or build up and the button works just like a degauser as it sets the circuit back to zero. Also the current pick up works like a transformer, if you wrap 2 or more turns - the current doubles or scales the same way. Some day I'll do a video on hall effect sensors and show the guts of this Hantek.