Noticed the green jug on floor in your garage. Castrol IS made for 4 cylinders. ONLY oil I've EVER used in ALL my Hondas. Thanks for sharing that leak TIP . Going to do the soap test on my build.
Hehehe, pretty much have same stuff man! I did found some exhaust leaks under the pan and where it connects catback. Seem to work a bit enough to drive it to dyno shop.
Just notice you use the iat sensor on the manifold. My tuner had me put mine 6in away from the throttle blade on the intercooler for more accurate readings. Im sure it won’t make a difference but who knows. Also can’t wait to see what your setup puts down
You know l thought about moving that sensor away from there cause it pretty much reading the temp of the manifold too. You just gave me a idea and l might reconsider weld a bung at the cooler pipe like D16. I'll think of a way that the heat doesn't transfer as much. Thanks man!
Just so you know , Honda isn't a MAF system it's a map system. Blocking hot air from the intake side of the turbo won't matter . Your IAT is after the intercooler air density will be minimal without a cold air sine it will ingest hot air from under the hood . If your IAT is your problem and not dropping your intercooler core effeciency is bad and also air flow is bad . The shielding usually works more toward MAF style intakes where forced air disrupts readings when fans turn on and idle surges
Thanks for the info, just took some more temp info on the intake manifold and it seems that temp of manifold is corrupting the iat sensor temp and sending heat signal base on intake manifold temp not air temp when iengine is fully hot. The fmic is okay, its dropping air temp coz l been monitoring it by touching the cold side after car made a stop. Someone made a comment of relocating the iat sensor 6" away from t/b like D16. I might do that. Thanks again.
If you don't have a thermal isolator gasket on your intake manifold like hondata gasket , heat transfer will always be more. The undergoes ambient temp will always be effected by it . Sometimes the sensor itself can become lazy and slow in response in changes also .
@@yu-cg5dxthe turbo inlet temp is completely surpassed by heat transfer from the EGT that is completely connected through manifold heat and to the exhaust housing of the turbo . Which is also lubricated with engine oil and coolant which would be all dependent those fluids to cool down the chra. Oil would be around 200 degrees and coolant would be 180 degrees completely warmed up engine . As for the turbo inlet temp being lower would not give it longevity
You don't have to worry so much about your sleeves , make sure the tuner is well aware of what you want on this motor. First if possible check the actual turbo map efficiency and make sure you take account the engines displacement . As you look at the map you will see the hypothetical ramp of power and just take a few degrees out where torque seems to spike in the lower rpm . But your rod stroke ratio it's not great but not worst then a b18c . So you shouldn't have so much piston to sidewall pressure
@@RS-bb5tg Told him in the beginning about the engine and no crazy numbers. Turned out that my wastegate placement was not ideal. Boost creeping so bad. You'll see it next once l'm done editting. Thank you for all the info man!
Amigo te esta quedando very good 🎉❤
Thank you very much!
Noticed the green jug on floor in your garage. Castrol IS made for 4 cylinders. ONLY oil I've EVER used in ALL my Hondas. Thanks for sharing that leak TIP . Going to do the soap test on my build.
Hehehe, pretty much have same stuff man! I did found some exhaust leaks under the pan and where it connects catback. Seem to work a bit enough to drive it to dyno shop.
Awesome find
Thanks
Sounds like it started knocking when you were checking for leaks....
It wasn't that loud when it was NA, but after engine is on normal operating temp. It goes away.
Just notice you use the iat sensor on the manifold. My tuner had me put mine 6in away from the throttle blade on the intercooler for more accurate readings. Im sure it won’t make a difference but who knows. Also can’t wait to see what your setup puts down
You know l thought about moving that sensor away from there cause it pretty much reading the temp of the manifold too. You just gave me a idea and l might reconsider weld a bung at the cooler pipe like D16. I'll think of a way that the heat doesn't transfer as much. Thanks man!
Not asking much on this motor coz l didnt have it resleeve. Wish l did have it resleeve but its alright.
Just so you know , Honda isn't a MAF system it's a map system. Blocking hot air from the intake side of the turbo won't matter . Your IAT is after the intercooler air density will be minimal without a cold air sine it will ingest hot air from under the hood . If your IAT is your problem and not dropping your intercooler core effeciency is bad and also air flow is bad . The shielding usually works more toward MAF style intakes where forced air disrupts readings when fans turn on and idle surges
It also just seems a good practice to get the coolest air into the turbo's intake for efficiency and hardware longevity.
Thanks for the info, just took some more temp info on the intake manifold and it seems that temp of manifold is corrupting the iat sensor temp and sending heat signal base on intake manifold temp not air temp when iengine is fully hot. The fmic is okay, its dropping air temp coz l been monitoring it by touching the cold side after car made a stop. Someone made a comment of relocating the iat sensor 6" away from t/b like D16. I might do that. Thanks again.
If you don't have a thermal isolator gasket on your intake manifold like hondata gasket , heat transfer will always be more. The undergoes ambient temp will always be effected by it . Sometimes the sensor itself can become lazy and slow in response in changes also .
@@yu-cg5dxthe turbo inlet temp is completely surpassed by heat transfer from the EGT that is completely connected through manifold heat and to the exhaust housing of the turbo . Which is also lubricated with engine oil and coolant which would be all dependent those fluids to cool down the chra. Oil would be around 200 degrees and coolant would be 180 degrees completely warmed up engine . As for the turbo inlet temp being lower would not give it longevity
@RS-bb5tg I'm using Speedfactory IM thermal gasket, my nephew told me to use e85 so it run a bit cooler.
First🔥
Thanks
Is this the sleeved block?
l wish l did have it sleeve but no, that's why l'm not going for a hi numbers.
You don't have to worry so much about your sleeves , make sure the tuner is well aware of what you want on this motor. First if possible check the actual turbo map efficiency and make sure you take account the engines displacement . As you look at the map you will see the hypothetical ramp of power and just take a few degrees out where torque seems to spike in the lower rpm . But your rod stroke ratio it's not great but not worst then a b18c . So you shouldn't have so much piston to sidewall pressure
@@RS-bb5tg Told him in the beginning about the engine and no crazy numbers. Turned out that my wastegate placement was not ideal. Boost creeping so bad. You'll see it next once l'm done editting. Thank you for all the info man!