Couple things. I'd do a compression/leakdown test just to confirm that that cylinder scaring isn't causing an issue there. It's hard to tell from the video, but it does sound like piston slap to me. Could be a bearing too, but typically that would get louder with rev's. Unfortunately I have seen very few hand-hone'd builds last any real substantial amount of time. This is mainly due to the natural "egging" of the bore's that occurs over time with natural engine wear. Every engine I've built, I'd at a bare minimum get the block to a machine shop to have them hone the cylinder to size relative to each piston that is going to be used. Some cylinders may even need an overbore due to severe egging. Given the F23's short rod/long stroke configuration, it does put more pressure/stress on the cylinder bores as well. Also, If that small ground strap on the valve cover helped with starting issues, that's a tell tale sign that your main ground to the block simply isn't big enough or in good enough shape. Not a lot of people understand the concept around 'star point' grounding and why it's important, but I highly recommend everyone looking at doing custom automotive work to look into it due to it's importance. Haltech and HPA both have some great videos on it. Keep up the great work though!
I'll do a compression check just to be sure and l really want to know what causing that noise. Do you think valve springs and retsiners will make that sound coz that's what my next move is to bring back the old spring setup it has. I'm not revving it pass 7k now that its tuned and l believed that mark on the sleeve are from over revving it. Thank you for your info and l'll make sure it get done.
The cast pistons with looser p2w clearances tend to sound almost like a knock, however it shouldn’t be an issue. If it’s a cast, the expansion would be quite small. There is nothing to worry about, just noisy engine. The boost controller is the ecu activating the solenoid as the map sensor fluctuates, just need to raise the activation psi on hondata
Thanks man! I was reading lots of info on 2618 material and it does makes lot of noise than forged aluminum piston. Sound goes away as soon as it heats up. I always thought it was coming from the head and l did replaced the lma's and no help. Thanks for your input and really appreciate it. Someone recommend to do a compression check to make sure its healthy.
I'll mention it to my tuner about the boost controller coz l'm a alien when it comes to s300, lol!. I started to educate myself on it though, slowly, some small stuff but still scrathing my head like the other day when l set the ignition timing and synch it on s300. Somehow l couldn't open the ignition set window.
Not sure if you watch some previous episode when l put the motor together. Engine had less than 1k + miles (na setup), and decided to boost it. I re-used the rod bearings, installed it on same location where it came off from w/c cylinder. Rods side clearances w/in specs. I learned from building motor from the past that when rod side clearances are w/in specs ( not serviceable specs) rod bearing oil clearnces is also good. Do you think l should have installed a new rod bearing instead rather than keeping the used bearings? Thanks for your input and appreciate everybody comments.
@ajrveedub I have a oil leak from the oil pan, l didn't put enough sealant on the flange. Once l drop the pan l'll check the rods, making sure everything is good. Later man! Did you replace the rod or rebuilt the motor?
What camshafts are in the engine? Are they degreed correctly or timed correctly? Also the boost controller is activating with key on engine off because the activation point is set to 0psi or in vacuum. It needs to be a few psi, not at 0. That way it’s not activating when you’re key on engine off.
I told my tuner about the boost controller that it was ticking and he'll check it out soon. Thanks for the info man. That sound really bothers me. I recently changed the lma's and no help but somehow now its less time till the noise was silent.
@PRZJ91 No, it was running perfect before l removed and replaced it w/ SK2 valve springs and Ti retainers that l got from the junk yard. Together with piston amd forged rods. After that, weird sound appeared.
I never have a noise issue when it was NA setup, soun appeared after the valve springs znd retatiners was changed. Someone also mentioned to do a compression check. I'll check it all out this coming weekend.
@@sagittnet2158 great it could be have a slight leak causing it to sound like a valve lash issue doesnt sound like a rod bearing issue.. sounds like something up with the head.
@@miguelportillo6591 I eliminated the belt tension. Next episode is about lma's and timing belt. It does crossed my mind about the belt. Any suggestion l really appreciate it.
It's a new forged rod with 2618 piston material and 0 time. It started after l got the motor ready for boost. Folks are saying its just a piston slap and l starting to believe that it is, even though l didn't see a scuffing marks on cyl walls. I've seen a oil leak coming from the oil pan. When l pull the pan to reseal it, l make sure to recheck the rods and lower part of thd cylinder. Make sure everything are good. Thanks man!
It does really sound nasty and l also changed the lma's that no help. But somehow after lma's changed, now it only takes less time to quite it down. Do you think stiffer springs will make that sound? I really dont know the rate of the sk2 spring that l got from the junk yard.
I know and really bugging me lately, did some few things that l thought it'll help but no avail. You'll see it soon. Recently changed the oil and no metal flakes or anything and cam lobes loook ok, no abnormal wear. I'm really eyeing the sk2 springs now, maybe its to stiff coz l dont really know the specs on it (got it from the junkyard w/ h22 head). Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 Spring's won't make it tick like that unless it was waaay out of adjustment. I have some crazy stiff springs on my B series CRX and it purr's.
@Hptorque thanks and l'll check it out, my oil pan is keaking a bit. I guessed l didn't put enough sealantvon thd flange and when l decide to pull it out, l 'll check the rods. Thanks
Couple things. I'd do a compression/leakdown test just to confirm that that cylinder scaring isn't causing an issue there. It's hard to tell from the video, but it does sound like piston slap to me. Could be a bearing too, but typically that would get louder with rev's. Unfortunately I have seen very few hand-hone'd builds last any real substantial amount of time. This is mainly due to the natural "egging" of the bore's that occurs over time with natural engine wear. Every engine I've built, I'd at a bare minimum get the block to a machine shop to have them hone the cylinder to size relative to each piston that is going to be used. Some cylinders may even need an overbore due to severe egging. Given the F23's short rod/long stroke configuration, it does put more pressure/stress on the cylinder bores as well. Also, If that small ground strap on the valve cover helped with starting issues, that's a tell tale sign that your main ground to the block simply isn't big enough or in good enough shape. Not a lot of people understand the concept around 'star point' grounding and why it's important, but I highly recommend everyone looking at doing custom automotive work to look into it due to it's importance. Haltech and HPA both have some great videos on it. Keep up the great work though!
I'll do a compression check just to be sure and l really want to know what causing that noise. Do you think valve springs and retsiners will make that sound coz that's what my next move is to bring back the old spring setup it has. I'm not revving it pass 7k now that its tuned and l believed that mark on the sleeve are from over revving it. Thank you for your info and l'll make sure it get done.
Super cool comment!
Any chance it’s a stock lma. They do tick hard
It seems to go away when you rev. Could be lma but it’s pretty loud
@cbdreamer1709 hahaha! Sound like you already know the episode coming up man! Yes, you'll see it soon. Thanks buddy
The cast pistons with looser p2w clearances tend to sound almost like a knock, however it shouldn’t be an issue. If it’s a cast, the expansion would be quite small. There is nothing to worry about, just noisy engine. The boost controller is the ecu activating the solenoid as the map sensor fluctuates, just need to raise the activation psi on hondata
Thanks man! I was reading lots of info on 2618 material and it does makes lot of noise than forged aluminum piston. Sound goes away as soon as it heats up. I always thought it was coming from the head and l did replaced the lma's and no help. Thanks for your input and really appreciate it. Someone recommend to do a compression check to make sure its healthy.
I'll mention it to my tuner about the boost controller coz l'm a alien when it comes to s300, lol!. I started to educate myself on it though, slowly, some small stuff but still scrathing my head like the other day when l set the ignition timing and synch it on s300. Somehow l couldn't open the ignition set window.
I think this sounds similiar to the engine that i built that have a piston slap, but maybe it could on the rod bearing too
Not sure if you watch some previous episode when l put the motor together. Engine had less than 1k + miles (na setup), and decided to boost it. I re-used the rod bearings, installed it on same location where it came off from w/c cylinder. Rods side clearances w/in specs. I learned from building motor from the past that when rod side clearances are w/in specs ( not serviceable specs) rod bearing oil clearnces is also good. Do you think l should have installed a new rod bearing instead rather than keeping the used bearings? Thanks for your input and appreciate everybody comments.
Try to put thicker oil ? To help it lubricate better..?
I'm using 10w40 as of now.
It looks like timing belt is loose in the video it looks like its gotta hump between your cams
I noticed that the belt need adjustment. I removed and installed the blue belt after that video. You'll see it on next. Thanks bruh
Forged pistons? Forged pistons do slap when cold.
It's a centrifugal cast piston and 2618 material. They said that 2618 material makes more noise and expand more than forged aluminum piston.
Bent rod mate. Only slightly and not enough to lose compression but enough to hit the squirter.
I had similar sounds. Check the sump?
@@ajrveedub It's a new forged rods and the sound started after l changed the piston, rods, valve springs and retainers. 0 hrs when noise started.
@sagittnet2158 oh right ok 👍
I had similar noise but that was the piston hitting the oil squirter due a very slight rod bend.
@ajrveedub I have a oil leak from the oil pan, l didn't put enough sealant on the flange. Once l drop the pan l'll check the rods, making sure everything is good. Later man! Did you replace the rod or rebuilt the motor?
@@sagittnet2158 I removed and replaced the rods and the broken oil squirter from under the car.
@ajrveedub dang! Big job man. Later man!
That sounds scary check timing or compression test
It's a concerning moment! I'll check the compression sometime this weekend coming up. Thanks
What camshafts are in the engine? Are they degreed correctly or timed correctly?
Also the boost controller is activating with key on engine off because the activation point is set to 0psi or in vacuum. It needs to be a few psi, not at 0. That way it’s not activating when you’re key on engine off.
It's H23a bluetop camshafts and the valve springs are SK2 but unknown spring rate coz l got it from a H22 cylinder at the junk yard.
I told my tuner about the boost controller that it was ticking and he'll check it out soon. Thanks for the info man. That sound really bothers me. I recently changed the lma's and no help but somehow now its less time till the noise was silent.
@@sagittnet2158 did you have the rocker arm assemblies apart before? No prob my guy!
@PRZJ91 No, it was running perfect before l removed and replaced it w/ SK2 valve springs and Ti retainers that l got from the junk yard. Together with piston amd forged rods. After that, weird sound appeared.
It’s not oil starvation? 🤔
None, oil pressure is good and it oil was verified visually prior to starting the engine
Sounds like a bent valve.. unplug the dizzy wire..? One by one see if you will hear the tone difference.. on each cylinder
Thanks and l'll check it out.
I never have a noise issue when it was NA setup, soun appeared after the valve springs znd retatiners was changed. Someone also mentioned to do a compression check. I'll check it all out this coming weekend.
@@sagittnet2158 great it could be have a slight leak causing it to sound like a valve lash issue doesnt sound like a rod bearing issue.. sounds like something up with the head.
check timing belt tensionors
@@miguelportillo6591 I eliminated the belt tension. Next episode is about lma's and timing belt. It does crossed my mind about the belt. Any suggestion l really appreciate it.
Sounds like a bent rod to me
It's a new forged rod with 2618 piston material and 0 time. It started after l got the motor ready for boost. Folks are saying its just a piston slap and l starting to believe that it is, even though l didn't see a scuffing marks on cyl walls. I've seen a oil leak coming from the oil pan. When l pull the pan to reseal it, l make sure to recheck the rods and lower part of thd cylinder. Make sure everything are good. Thanks man!
@ yeah like someone mentioned before start with a compression test then a leakdown test. Best of luck.
@BulliKid 👌
No offense Sagitt but ever since the first start up it’s sounded bad that slapping. Very audible on the videos
I agree, for sure is piston to wall, my G23 make the same noise way less, but in my opinion better thing to do is new pistons 86.50 mm and bore.
It does really sound nasty and l also changed the lma's that no help. But somehow after lma's changed, now it only takes less time to quite it down. Do you think stiffer springs will make that sound? I really dont know the rate of the sk2 spring that l got from the junk yard.
Yes l might gave it a little too much of p2w clearance. Someone suggested to do a compression check and l'll do that this weekend.
@@sagittnet2158. Sounds like down low piston slap to me. But then again I’m NOT there to hear it in person. Good Luck man.
@@sagittnet2158. Never heard of stiffer valve springs causing that. On video it sounds deeper (the slap) and not top end related neither.
That problem 💯% come from piston. Just rebore it , or found another F , rebore it half mm means 86.50 new pistons and calling the day,
I'm convinced now that it's from the piston. Thanks to all your input, suggestion and I'll still have it retune and we'll see after.
@sagittnet2158 sound good, I'm planning build an H sleeved for my Grinch
@Hptorque kool man! Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 np , let's stay tuned both of us 😆
Damn man, that doesn’t sound good. Try changing the oil and look for metal shavings.
I know and really bugging me lately, did some few things that l thought it'll help but no avail. You'll see it soon. Recently changed the oil and no metal flakes or anything and cam lobes loook ok, no abnormal wear. I'm really eyeing the sk2 springs now, maybe its to stiff coz l dont really know the specs on it (got it from the junkyard w/ h22 head). Thanks
@@sagittnet2158 Spring's won't make it tick like that unless it was waaay out of adjustment. I have some crazy stiff springs on my B series CRX and it purr's.
That isn't valve springs, piston wall, or check the rod bearing, something in that area in my opinion
@Hptorque thanks and l'll check it out, my oil pan is keaking a bit. I guessed l didn't put enough sealantvon thd flange and when l decide to pull it out, l 'll check the rods. Thanks