What is the bias? How to find the bias grain in fabric? Learn Sewing Terminology
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- What is the bias of fabric? How do you find the true bias? In this video, I will explain what the bias of fabric grain is, why it is important and how you can find the bias direction on fabric, to use either for the grain on sewing patterns or maybe to cut bias strips for your sewing projects!!!
Follow this whole series of Sewing Terminology s you can learn to speak dressmaker!
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Hi! I'm Evelyn Wood, and I am a vintage fashion designer, dressmaker and sewing instructor.
I have been making clothes all my life!
My love is vintage fashion!
I help 'dressmakers in the making' ( ie new sewers) to learn how to sew and make their own clothes!
So if you're into sewing and vintage/retro style, this might just be THE place for you!
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*Learn to sew with me at VINTAGE SEWING SCHOOL : www.vintagesewingschool.com
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Let me know how you found the video, and if this finally explains the mystery of bias for you!
Evelyn Wood that makes sense all round... I used bias binding as decorations I know it isn’t for that but I just didn’t know the “actual” purpose of it. Also when I have cut a bias binding strip myself in the past I just cut a straight line. This has been so helpful. Now I see the purpose. It will really help 😊. Thank you ☺️
great!!! Glad we sorted that out!! Now you know why it is called BIAS binding!
I'm Quebecer, (french Canadian) so it help my a lot. I just buy my first machine and i really appreciate your tutorials.
I am making a half-slip from thermal fabric which is warm. I noticed a real stretch to the fabric in one direction and not in the other. I didn't know how to place the pattern. You helped a lot.
Dude. I always wondered why everything I made pulled weird and didn't stretch where it needed to. This is so obvious, I feel downright foolish. Thank you.
i FINALLY understand!! You dont know how long its taken me to wrap my head around this!
Hi, it has been 5 years since you made this bias video but, it was very helpful for me to understand why I would cut a blouse/shirt on the bias in order to get stretch. Thank you for your time and expertise. Much appreciated.
I'm enjoying how each terminology video builds on the last one. It makes me review in my head the previous terms and I'm beginning to feel more comfortable with them. Vintage Sewing School has been a great resource for me! I love these little bonuses on youtube.
Johanna fantastic!!! I'm so glad that the course is really helping you! Having an understanding of all these terms and why things like grainline are important, will make you such a better dressmaker!! I'm so excited about what you will create! x
I started a sewing class 8 weeks ago. I'm at home attempting to make a top, thankfully this is the 1st video I clicked on. You have explained this well thank you kindly :-D
Hi! I do not know why I did not find your videos until now. You are amazing, these basics really help me. I can tell you that I took a community college course, and your terms are clearer that what I learn there. Thanks so much.
This all started with finding your tutorial on the 20's handbag. After I learned (from you) how to actually start sewing (holding the threads) and my machine stopped jamming - well I now own 10 sewing machines! Mostly all, get ready Evelyn... Vintage Singer's! Having a blast! Thanks again for the continued motivation! You are an amazing individual!
To put it simply, thankyou for making all of your videos simple to understand.
Thank you for your clear and short teaching. It was excellent.
I just shared you with my family to add some new viewership. You are a gem.
Thank you for a clear explanation. It helps me to understand what is the bias so well.❤
Just found your great videos after watching a PBS show got brave enough to check out TH-cam for explanation of salvage, grain and bias. Thankful and getting more brave every day 💗️. Encouraging anyone, especially those who have been intimidated, to like and subscribe as I did today💗🎉🎉🎉
I posted this on another of your episodes but I wanted to add it here because I think it is SUCH a Smart Tip for dealing with "Bias Cut" fabric or Making something
"On the Bias" as it were?! :D
I am going to impart a "Sewing Tip" for dealing with "Bias Cut Fabric". Many years ago when I was making my VERY FIRST "Bias Cut Plaide Doublet" for my "Lord Shane O'Neill" costume for the Bristol Ren Faire here in Wisconsin. My FIRST Attempt was DISASTROUS, which ended up with me going BACK to the fabric store
to get MORE Plaide and THANKFULLY they had JUST ENOUGH left of the pattern I wanted to use!
While at the fabric store... I asked the lady at the cutting counter HOW I could avoid my fabric "Puckering" when I'm sewing it!
JUST then, this sweet older lady walked up and said, "I couldn't help overhearing what you were asking her? I've been sewing a LONG TIME and I have a VERY easy solution for you!"
Here is what she told me.... Iron out the fabric FIRST! THEN Using HEAVY DUTY/THICK "Fusible Interfacing" and cut EVERY Piece of the Doublet out ON the Interfacing FIRST!
THEN, Place it onto the fabric on the "WRONG SIDE" and make SURE it is in the EXACT/PROPER PLACE You want/need it to be with the angle of the Pattern,
and PIN IT IN PLACE!
{She also said to do EACH PIECE Separately to make SURE You are working on ONE PART at a time to avoid Confusion!}
THEN making SURE that the Interfacing is on the "WRONG SIDE" of the fabric, Iron it down onto the fabric!
Again doing this for EVERY SEPARATE PIECE!
THEN, "STAY STITCH" the edges of EVERY PIECE! THIS will ENSURE that it won't EVER "SLIP" Or "PUCKER"!
I actually WROTE this all down AS she was telling me and I STILL have that little "Sewing Note Book" to this VERY DAY! :D
So That is MY "TIP" for you all! I hope it helps someone?
Joe
Definitely the most informative video I've seen on bias! Easy to understand and very informative! Thankyou Evelyn :)
I'm so glad to hear it! Thank you! x
I was looking to find out exactly how to find the bias of a fabric., and then I just typed it in and this came up with extreamley good information, glad to eet you Evelyn and hear see your expertise on this subject it has helped me a lot to finish my project. I had a terrible time figuring out a yoke pattern, I thank you so much for this video. i found it on utube. Linda Haylock. Now I need to get a ruler like you showed us.
interesting I've often wondered what the nuances in sewing and your content is perfect for going down this rabbit whole. I like that now I understand what part of the fabric was used in those curved situations . thank you and cool red hat 👒
I needed to make some piping, the first instruction was to cut strips along the bias. I had no idea what the bias was so thank you for a very clear explanation.
Thank you I’m excited to be learning new things.and you are a great teacher.
I never really thought too much about the bias grain line. I've always sewn more children's costumes, home goods etc. Now that I want to sew more if my own clothes this was an ah ha moment video, thanks Evelyn!
I'm so glad this video is here. I watched it a couple months ago, but being a new sewer, I needed it again. Thank you!
You're welcome!! I'm glad you came back to it, when learning I think we need to see things several times before it 'sinks in' !
What I found the most helpful is this entire series! I've been theorically interested in sewing since I was a teenager, but without a ton of extra time or close connection with anyone that sews, getting started has been so hard. Even referencing books and tutorials was discouraging because there were so many basic words I didn't understand that weren't easily explained. This video is a perfect example, to understand the definition of bias, you need to understand several other industry-specific terms. The terminology and lack of basic insights was a huge barrier to starting. In less than 30 minutes of watching your videos, I have a better understanding of the basics than I've acquired in over 15 years of unsuccessfully trying to learn.
I can't wait to keep watching your videos and finally feeling ready to really start trying to sew!
The definition of bias was the most useful!
I found your video by searching for "what is a bias". It was the first to pop up. I am to make a skirt useing authentic African fabric for a friend. I wanted to make sure everything was correct before cutting. I want to get more jobs like this. I am a subscriber. You explain so well.
New to your channel. Thank you I have been sewing since I was six. I am teaching now and glad I saw your video. Yes, I know the difference, but teaching is a little different and I am going to teach little girls from 8 to 12 and wanted to make sure I explain to them the differences professionally. LOL Thank you again:)
LOVE YOUR MINI LESSONS
I was aware of bias but, your explanation of reasons for it and how it can make clothing fit better... such as stretch across the body... makes perfect sense! Thank you! You are beautiful and I enjoy all your tutorials!
Im glad you have a better idea of how it works! Bias is very difficult to work with and requires special pattern made with bias in mind, but it gives a beautiful fit!
@@Evelyn__Wood I never realized that's how they achieved "stretch" before actual stretch fabrics were invented. Doesn't it also create a totally different, softer, drape in a skirt, etc?
Wow.. thanks. I learn something new every day! 🌸
Yesssss finally found a person who does 1920s!!! Thank you!!
Your videos are still a real pleasure for me. I am waiting for the next one as if it were a serial story.
Thank you so very much for your concise explanation and demo. I'd been watching videos on how to cut bias strips and realized I didn't know the true meaning of bias. You've demystified it for me.
I am so grateful you’re running this series. Very new to sewing and am doing great at tote bags but will want to get into custom clothes for my odd shaped self eventually.
Wonderful!!! You'll be into sewing clothes in no time!!
That really makes sense now! I was so confused before 😅 x
I just found you, Evelyn, and I can't wait to see all your videos. Regarding bias cut, how is it better to target measurements on a finished dress on a table, horienting the fabric horizontally or vertically?
I had to go look up and watch those two, grainline and selvedge because I wasn't sure I knew them.
The time to know terms for sure is before you start a project. That way your not bogged down in the middle, or making mistakes on fabric and patterns.
Remember too, that there really aren't so many true mistakes on some fabrics: many things can be made out of scraps. There are many videos on scrap fabric useage.
I do understand the selvage, the bias and the grain line for the first time is was well demonstrated, and i know it now
Great series! I always had trouble knowing and finding what the bias is. Thank you so much for clearing it us for me. I have been sewing and quilting many years and thanks to this series I picked up a few pointers.
I always wanted to learn how to sew...but had no time. With these videos i can actually start to understand ...thank you so much!!!
Thank you so much for making these videos available to everyone that wants to learn to sew. I am a beginner and I wonder if you could suggest what videos of yours I should start with, to get more and more understanding of sewing. I have watched many a video, but a lot of people forget that beginners don't know a lot of the terminology and why one would do this and not that. Thank you very much again !!
I needed to know how to find bias to make tape. I love your style and when you came up first, I was like “ Oh good!”. Your explanation of grains and bias were clear and concise. Thank you!
You are my favourite sewing teacher, so knowledgeable & cayooooot - just like Betty Boop! Thank you! X
Great explanation! I’m learning so much about fabric from your videos!
Thanks! 😊
Wow! So that what bias binding is. Sounds silly of me but I never thought of that. I am just looking at a pattern that says cut the front panel on the bias so this is really interesting. Thank you. PS. I Love your blouse.
Not silly at all! Bias binding, is long strips of fabric that are cut on the bias (so that they are flexible and will mould/ease while sewing) you can use the bias strips for binding (to bind/cover edges of fabric) or as a bias facing (a really neat way to finish an edge like you would with a facing, but its really small!)
Does that explain bias binding?? Perhaps I should make it another term to explain?!
@@Evelyn__Wood sorry for being dumb here but is bias strips the same as bias tape?
Thank you Evelyn, that was the easiest way to explain Bias Grain.
Thank you for explaining clearly and simply for an absolute beginner. I’m making a petticoat first time ever and would love to dare make a 50’s skirt so this video has given me more confidence. Thank you.
Love your videos! I'd like to see you cut a pattern on the bias. I'd also like to see how to measure and sew elastic.
I pretty well knew what bias was but this was a very clear tutorial on what it is and how to find it. Thanks so much.
I found your video on top 5 sewing mistakes for beginners video by starting to look up tailoring basics - I forget the words after "tailoring" I used, but basically I was trying to find more specifics on how to use a sewing machine, what stitches there are, about fabrics, etc. I remember just enough from when I learned to sew from my aunt when I was 12 to look up the vocab so I can relearn it. Then I wandered around the videos on your channel til I found this series!
Everything from beginning to end very useful! Thanx!
So so glad that I found your channel ❤ I need to learn as much about sewing as I can because I was just given my dream job working with a lady that started her own seamstress business from home. She was needing help bad but couldn't find anyone interested in doing it until we met through Facebook marketplace. She was selling the sewing cabinet/table that I had been wanting really really bad since seeing one on Amazon last year. I was definitely blessed that day💕❤💜💕🧡💕
Just great video, congratulations madame!
Thank you. I can't wait to watch your other videos.
all of it is so useful. I didnt' know about the ruler and I thought I had nearly every sewing gadget. Thank You so much. Yay!!!
There's always more gadgets!!
@@Evelyn__Wood Yess... there are. I've seen a few lately I really want. Ahhh but the heart is willing... the Budget is Cranky. :D
Love your look and THANK YOU so much for helping us with terminology. Great channel I'm already a subscriber.
You are delightful! Thank you! 😊 I’ve been teaching myself to sew with various projects (zipper pouches, purses, bags, etc.) and have been making my own “bias tape” for things. It was just normal to me to make my own. Today, with a bit of help from a friend, I started my first pattern (an apron) and I learned why people BUY their bias tape. Lol, the pattern calls for 8+ yards of bias tape! I was prepared to make my own 8 yards but I learned today if I make my own, it’s *supposed* to be cut on the diagonal... the “bias” - duh. Prior to this mine have been small ones on a straight line. Wow. Anyway, so off to youtube I go to get an education on “bias” - your video was very good, very clear. You’ve actually answered several questions I’ve had in just 2-3 videos... all that to say thank you! People like you helping people like me - I’m just very thankful! I’m so happy sewing. I look forward to learning more - youtube is amazing for learning. Thank you again.💕 while I’m here, I have seen those little tools that fold fabric and you pull it through and iron it and it becomes bias tape. Do those work well? Maybe that would help me keep making my own. TY! 😊
Using measuring techniques with the small quilting ruler and explaination of bias strenghtening fabric by crossing grains providing for wrapping around of the fabric.
Wonderful video!!! Very informative and presented clearly. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Great information I was never sure what or how important the bias is!
Fabulous!!! I'm so gaff I could clear that one up!! If you didn't watch the video on grainline yet, watch that one too! As they all link together!
You're a fabulous teacher.
Aww thank you my dear! x
Am watching this 2 1/2 years later Evelyn. I have found everything helpful and useful about it. I am sure you have posted something. similar on your sewing school which I haven't caught up to yet! I'm torn between your school and your channel! 🧡🐾
Thanks for the video. I already knew what the bias was, but I always struggled to actually work out how to find it.
great!! Well as I said there's always more than one way, but this is the easiest I think!! Now you can cut bias strips easy 😀
I first heard about bias when I was a teen and a TV show (maybe What Not To Wear UK) recommended to look for skirts cut on the bias because they hugged the hips instead of pulling. It was very good advice.
Really helpful thank you so much! I kept reading what these terms were an it just wasn’t clicking in my brain, until now!
Really helpful thank you so much! I kept reading what these terms were and it just wasn’t clicking in my brain, until now!
I love this series of videos. Recently I bought my first ever sewing pattern and the vocab is so foreign that after reading the instructions I was almost more confused than before.
RIGHT!!!! There's a lot you need to know! I hope this series help explain some terminology and with it some of the very important rules, like grain line, you need to understand and follow!
Excellent video. We're making MASKS for the medical workers in the local hospital so just wanted to make the most useful and maybe be making our own bias tape if you can't find it! Blessings and keep up the hand washing and the physical distancing. We're all in this together!
Thank you this was an excellent tutorial!~
I am one of those very inexperienced ( I don't know what it means so I skip it) people. Your videos are so helpful!! Thank you❤️
Thank you for refreshing my mind 😁
Very informative for a beginner
Bless your soul, ma'am.
Thank you for this!!!!!
Thank you it's brilliant
This is so helpful! I’ve always just avoided anything that needed to be cut on the bias hahahaha
Fantastic video, thank you. Makes sense to use a ruler, wish I had thought of that years ago. Have always been afraid of bias due to not understanding. Will try to make bias binding. Evelyn, would you consider making a video about facings please? I struggle with my facings staying on the inside of the garment even with top stitching.
I'm so glad this solves the bias mystery! Yes cut your own strips and use one of the bias tape makers to make a nice neat tape!
With you facings, are you clipping the curves underneath?
Thank you!
Hi thx very informative- please can you demonstrate how to cut on the bias with the fabric laid out? Thank you!
Do you have a video on how to actually cut the fabric (tutorial)? And maybe how to make a bias pattern?
Yep thanks a lot
NOW I GOT IT OMG
Great video as always! Evelyn i love it. Now i know why sometimes the pattern piece does not fit. It needed the bias stretch.
Robyn a pattern is either designed on straight grain ( almost all) or bias grain, you cant just switch them! The fit will be entirely different, a darted bodice will NOT work on the bias for example!. If the pattern is straight grain keep it there! And if it is on the bias, keep it there!!!! If you just switch it, you'll get into all sorts of problems!
Evelyn Wood you are so right. Trying to save material is not good if i don't follow the grain line rules. Lesson learned 🙃
haha I had a sneaky suspicion that this was what you meant! Yes it is really important to have all the pieces following the indicated grainline, otherwise, one side could hang differently than the other or fit differently (puckers on one side and not the other for example). Follow all the correct grainline on your next project and see how it turns out! And think of other creative ways to use fabric scraps!
Whos your designer? Love your outfit!!!!🤗✌😁
It actually explains the fit issues!
Oh really!!! Have you been cutting things off grain and didn't know why some where stretching and others weren't??
Evelyn Wood Yep!
Wait ...I do follow the grain line!!
I love the red hat and scarf combo
Thank you! I think it worked well on camera too! x
Fabulous as always 😍
Until now I don't have known that pattern can be cut in the bias. It was very informative. I only have used bias for seams. Can you show a piece of clothing which was cut in the bias direction?
hmm, I don't know, this sounds a bit biased to me ;-) Seriously though - thank you for your SUPER helpful tutorials! I watch and love them all!
Ty I needed this but I have a question if I drape on my form and I need to transfer that to sew I notice it's snug on the form but when I remove to sew it looks baggy
Thank you for explaining this. Can you show where to lay a pattern with the grain line indicated? For example, the first pattern you used had the grain line indicated but your second pattern did not indicate the grain line.
when tearing or cutting material into strips...which direction will fray less on the edges?
I am curious about your standard drafted pattern pieces you keep on hangers. Are they generic pieces or specific patterns done to your measuerments. Where do you keep your pattern/project Ideas.?? Do you have those ideas before you fidn somethig fabulous you have to upgrade.??
Is there a way to see in a store if something is made using a bias cut? or is it just a matter of feeling how strechy it is while making sure no elastine was used? I heard bias cut garments are a very good option for curvy people, so I'd love to find some while shopping
Hey, What is the name of the ruler you use to measure the 90 degree angle for the bias. Thank you 🙏
I'm wondering if you can cut on 22.5 deg bias to save fabric on a long gown and get some bias effect? Is this a thing?
can you do a video on how to cut a pattern on the bias
Would it not save time to use a 45 degree triangle when finding the bias?
PS: Your series is exceptionally well made. I am not a tailor but I like to learn about the properties of materials used in everyday objects.
If you’re using a stretchy polyester or poly blend in a solid color, does it matter whether or not you cut on the bias?
Thanks for letting me know but how do cut a three gore skirt?
Can you please supply the Large 45 degree triangle ruler? You mentioned you would add the link in this video please thankyou.
Thanks Evelyn, I would imagine that material cut on the bias might fray more unevenly. When it comes to material pattern / print selection, that matching the pattern would be more difficult with a straight line or plaid pattern than a floral or artsy image. Am I thinking correctly ? J K
Good questions! fabric cut on the bias actually doesn't fray! Well, it does a little of course, but because all the yarns ( the threads that make up the fabric) are cut diagonally, they cant actually pull out of the fabric, like they do when it is cut on straight grain! Test it to find out and see what I mean!
Yes, pattern matching can be more tricky, or you can use the bias to create diagonal panels and contract diagonal stipe yolks etc! As with any pattern matching of prints, it cannot always be done, you need to carefully look at the pattern pieces you have and the print you're trying to match!
When a right angled ruler like yours is placed along the Grainline, wouldn't the long diagonal side of that ruler be on the true bias? Without any measuring?
Do knits have a bias, or only wovens, given that it's about the structure of the fabric itself?
Technically yes! You still have the straight grain ( warp yarns) and the crosswise grain ( weft threads), and a bias. But in knit fabrics you would never use the bias as you will always be using one of the straight grains to get the correct stretch of the fabric, as it was intended by knitting it!. Bias is really only a 'thing' in woven fabrics. I hope that answers that for you!