What you show is an attempt to change brake discs and pads. the mistakes you make are many but justified by your amateurish way. you need some good tools, learning How to use appropriate tools and materials. In general, if you were graded, with an excellent 10, I would kindly give you,... a 4. .. spanner is only used on children's bikes and in baby toys...
Given the circumstances a 4 is too kind of you 😃 I learned from my mistakes as others mentioned in the comments. There’s a video in pinned comment, where I replace my Volvo’s rear brake pads and rotors IN A BETTER WAY. Thanks for the feedback, if You can, check out that video as well! Cheers
Spray Blaster to the holding screws for 30 min and they will come loose. The two holes on the disk are used to screw in 10mm screws which will press out the disk. No more drilling or hammering the disk.😊
Good job. You might consider some new steps in the future. Clean the hub face with wire brush and add copper paste. Do the same to the screws that hold the disc. Where the pads touch the bracket, clean with wire brush and add a bit of copper paste. Take out the guide pins, clean with clean cloth, check for wear and add silicone paste. Add copper paste to the bracket bolts and caliper bolts. Avoid using a vicegrip to push the brake in. It can damage the rubber boot. That way, no part will ever rust weld or not retract correctly. Keep up the good work!
@@steve75112the dude has a point. If you don’t grease between the clean hub and new disc it’s gonna rust solid and make job 10x harder to get it off next time
Hi, How is that Riken snowtime tyre? I was womdering to get it for the old little swift, but I was unsure. Thanks for the video, I was watching to check where to put the jackstsands. 👌🏻
It was a bit old (as it was the only set of tyres), so I can't tell you how was it as brand new. Due to its size (155/70 R13) it was like a sausage, didn't have a lot of traction. Afterwards I bought a set of Michelin's (195/50 R15) on a used 15" rim, the traction was outstanding.
Smear a little brake or copper grease on threads of retaining screws then they should nt need drilling out.! Also for peace of mind i would locktite the carrier bolts as u need them to stay tight for safety. And really get a half inch drive socket set much easier and tightens properly.
Well, I will list you the mistakes you are making. if you want to get better read, pay attention and apply. mistake 1. we never use a spanner on these kinds of screws. we apply a nut And we work with a ratchet. Error 2. The small disc support screws are removed With a special tool, not as you show, this way is for non-owners. error 3. The Textar It always has the special reset support plates in the package, why didn't you use them?? Error 4. The bearing surface of the disc is cleaned and lubricated with copper paste.Error 5. The wheel bolts are tightened with a torque wrench to a specific torque. Suzuki Gives 8.3 nm.This from someone who is getting old.I suggest you start by buying some serious tools.....
Hey there! I uploaded a new brake replacement video following your suggestions. Check it out!
bit.ly/s40rearbrake
What you show is an attempt to change brake discs and pads. the mistakes you make are many but justified by your amateurish way. you need some good tools, learning How to use appropriate tools and materials. In general, if you were graded, with an excellent 10, I would kindly give you,... a 4. .. spanner is only used on children's bikes and in baby toys...
Given the circumstances a 4 is too kind of you 😃 I learned from my mistakes as others mentioned in the comments. There’s a video in pinned comment, where I replace my Volvo’s rear brake pads and rotors IN A BETTER WAY. Thanks for the feedback, if You can, check out that video as well! Cheers
Bro are suzuki swift rotor and suzuki dzire rotor interchangeable or compatible?
Spray Blaster to the holding screws for 30 min and they will come loose. The two holes on the disk are used to screw in 10mm screws which will press out the disk. No more drilling or hammering the disk.😊
Good job. You might consider some new steps in the future.
Clean the hub face with wire brush and add copper paste. Do the same to the screws that hold the disc.
Where the pads touch the bracket, clean with wire brush and add a bit of copper paste. Take out the guide pins, clean with clean cloth, check for wear and add silicone paste.
Add copper paste to the bracket bolts and caliper bolts. Avoid using a vicegrip to push the brake in. It can damage the rubber boot.
That way, no part will ever rust weld or not retract correctly.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tips! I’ll use these methods on the next maintenance
oh be quiet or make your own video
I just made a new video, If you could check it out, it would be awesome! I followed your helpful advices!
@@steve75112the dude has a point. If you don’t grease between the clean hub and new disc it’s gonna rust solid and make job 10x harder to get it off next time
He’s doing a dodgy brake job mate lol
Excellent video, thank you
What should be the minimum thickness of old rotors to work on ?
On average if you have 2-3mm less than the new rotor thickness it is advisable to change them.
Hi, How is that Riken snowtime tyre? I was womdering to get it for the old little swift, but I was unsure. Thanks for the video, I was watching to check where to put the jackstsands. 👌🏻
It was a bit old (as it was the only set of tyres), so I can't tell you how was it as brand new. Due to its size (155/70 R13) it was like a sausage, didn't have a lot of traction. Afterwards I bought a set of Michelin's (195/50 R15) on a used 15" rim, the traction was outstanding.
Use an impact driver to unscrew that bolts on the rotors easy
Yeah at that time I didn't have any power tools, so was a bit harder and longer to work on cars
A esos tornillos del caliper les falto apriete pues con esas llaves españolas no sirven para un buen apretón eso es con dado y maneral
Socket or ring spanner would stop you from rounding nuts 👍
Thank you! Won't forget the info next time!
Smear a little brake or copper grease on threads of retaining screws then they should nt need drilling out.! Also for peace of mind i would locktite the carrier bolts as u need them to stay tight for safety. And really get a half inch drive socket set much easier and tightens properly.
Price{ disc and pad both}
If I remember correctly, I paid for the Brembo discs and the Textar pads around €70. Only fronts.
gutes video, have a nice day my boy
Price
What’s the part number for the rotors ?
Thanks Bro. Good video.
Græse maby 🤔
GOOD VIDEO
What size are the disc screws? Cheers
If I remember correctly, they were M5x10 or shorter. Sorry that was a long time ago..
Well, I will list you the mistakes you are making. if you want to get better read, pay attention and apply. mistake 1. we never use a spanner on these kinds of screws. we apply a nut And we work with a ratchet. Error 2. The small disc support screws are removed With a special tool, not as you show, this way is for non-owners. error 3. The Textar It always has the special reset support plates in the package, why didn't you use them?? Error 4. The bearing surface of the disc is cleaned and lubricated with copper paste.Error 5. The wheel bolts are tightened with a torque wrench to a specific torque. Suzuki Gives 8.3 nm.This from someone who is getting old.I suggest you start by buying some serious tools.....
Hey man thanks for the feedback. As you can see in the pinned comment I did another brake replacement video, that one was done the right way.
85 Nm not 8,5