Some great tips with clear explanations. Thank you for that. I'm starting an HO layout at 73, a huge gap between when I set a simple 4x8' for my son in 1980. LOL Will be using Piko HO Code 83 with mostly their flex track on a dog bone configuration. Will also be using the Mianne modular pre-cut benchwork so it can easily be disassembled when I hit the final "cutout".
Those clamp blocks are a great idea, I'm gonna try that. I saw a TH-cam vid where a guy was using a jig to bend ME track. He rubbed a sharpie on the rails, set a small scrap of 2x4 on it, and transferred the marks to the block. Then cut shallow grooves on the chop saw. Fit the block on the track and applying some downward pressure, slide the block along, using a slight twisting motion. It makes a real smooth curve very quickly. I used black acrylic paint, seems to work better than a sharpie.
NOTE: TH-cam has done something that seriously degraded the resolution of this video and I don't know how to fix it, although I suspect $$$ is involved. It was fine when I uploaded it, and now it's soft, fuzzy, grainy and sickly looking. I apologize for that.
Hi, there are several rail-to-rail size joiners/adapters available from several sources. Or, make your own, as in my video "How to make rail-to-rail size transitions", which can be found here via a search.
Really liked the video. For the second bend you reversed the track but why just clamp it in place connected to the turnout and so the bend there??? Really like the video...
Hi, an excellent question. It's mainly a matter of access. The track I was working with is close to the sub roadbed edge and could possibly have worked as you suggest, but many switches and track segments in general aren't close to any edge. It's not always possible to reach the track location with a clamp, although there are various woodworking clamps that have a deeper reach than the one-hander clamp I used. So yes, start laying the track if it can be reached via a clamp, otherwise, the trial-and-error is also a good way to go.
Biggest issue i have with flex is not being able to get the rail joiners on, and when then are N scale, they are friggin tiny so not easy to readjust the size,
The track doesn't need to be at the edge of the sub roadbed. That's just how this example happened to work out. You do a bend on the track near the edge of a work surface of some kind (does not need to be the layout sub roadbed. A scrap of plywood extending over the edge of a workbench is fine too, for example) where you can engage the clamps, test fit the track in its appropriate place wherever it goes on the layout, then go back and adjust the bend as needed.
Hi, it's easy to bend and adjust the track at the edge of a workbench or some such, then transfer that track to the desired installation space once it's shaped as desired.
Hi, I don't use cork because I don't need it. I spike my track directly to the Homasote sub roadbed, which takes spikes well and holds them fairly securely. Later the track will be further secured in place with the usual glued-down ballast. We're modeling the Sugar Pine Lumber Company circa September 1927, and like most logging companies, they didn't do a lot of ballast shaping and such as was standard for the larger Class 1 railroads. They pretty much laid their track on the flat graded surface and piled on whatever was handy as "ballast", in this case, it was often the fill material removed while grading the ROW or simple mix of decomposed granite soil and rocks. Thus, we don't need the shaped ballast contour provided by cork roadbed.
I can only speak for how I do this, but I need to clamp the track securely before making any curvature and shape changes. The edge of the subroadbed is where my clamps will fit. I don't have clamps with deep enough jaws to reach all the way into the middle of the subroadbed, so I clamp at the edge, shape, test fit and repeat. It works for me because I'm not in a hurry.
OK....I have bought ME flex track and Atlas flex-track, all Code 83. Atlas bends easily. ME (Shinora) does not...ME has a "tool" available to assist. So, carry on.....
That's one of the great things about this hobby, for any given technical process to pursue, there are usually several viable ways to accomplish the task. That flexibility makes it easy to choose the one that works best for each modeler.
Micro Engineering and Shinohara are two different brands of track. Shinohara is manufactured in Japan by Shinohara, which also manufactures the Walthers lines of track. Micro Engineering is made in St. Louis, Missouri. Shinohara bends somewhat easier than ME, and ME is the real challenge to work with until you get the hang of it. ME can be a PITA but once it's shaped and in place it looks great and works well.
Interesting - and you're wrong. I presume you watched the entire video (and not just the first 10 seconds before passing your judgement) and saw that the system works well for us, has always worked well in the past, and continues to work well, but even with that clear and accurate evidence that the system works, how did you conclude it's the wrong thing to do? Perhaps you can enlighten us about what you see as a proper way to accomplish the same thing and explain why you wrongly see the system I detailed as a bad idea.
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Some great tips with clear explanations. Thank you for that. I'm starting an HO layout at 73, a huge gap between when I set a simple 4x8' for my son in 1980. LOL Will be using Piko HO Code 83 with mostly their flex track on a dog bone configuration. Will also be using the Mianne modular pre-cut benchwork so it can easily be disassembled when I hit the final "cutout".
Those clamp blocks are a great idea, I'm gonna try that. I saw a TH-cam vid where a guy was using a jig to bend ME track. He rubbed a sharpie on the rails, set a small scrap of 2x4 on it, and transferred the marks to the block. Then cut shallow grooves on the chop saw. Fit the block on the track and applying some downward pressure, slide the block along, using a slight twisting motion. It makes a real smooth curve very quickly. I used black acrylic paint, seems to work better than a sharpie.
Sounds good, there is almost always more than one way to do any specific job on a model railroad.
Great info Jeff. Interestingly enough I've watched you for years on Rollinontv. I too am into Model Trains and we own a Jayco Class C. Great minds!
id love to see an update of this layout. great bench work. what a great job.
Thanks for sharing this video and information
Great idea and nice video....Thanks for posting it...
A great idea but why keep turning it around instead of working it where it sits?
The Homasote holds the nails? Do you glue your track as well?
Thank you for the tips
NOTE: TH-cam has done something that seriously degraded the resolution of this video and I don't know how to fix it, although I suspect $$$ is involved. It was fine when I uploaded it, and now it's soft, fuzzy, grainy and sickly looking. I apologize for that.
It seems the resolution selection keeps defaulting back to a lower resolution. Check that on your screen if it looks bad.
you know your stuff !! I am a newbie how do you match code 100 atlas flex with say code 83 for non main line?
Hi, there are several rail-to-rail size joiners/adapters available from several sources. Or, make your own, as in my video "How to make rail-to-rail size transitions", which can be found here via a search.
Awesome - will give that a go :) :)
Any new railroad updates coming in the future? This seems to be the last one posted.
Thank you Jeff I was wondering how to do that without having the rain move
This is great. Have you made a video of how you're transitioning from code 70 to code 55 track yet? I would love to see that.
Yes, search for "How to make rail-to-rail size transitions" and that should bring it up. And thank you for the kind words!
Really liked the video. For the second bend you reversed the track but why just clamp it in place connected to the turnout and so the bend there??? Really like the video...
Hi, an excellent question. It's mainly a matter of access. The track I was working with is close to the sub roadbed edge and could possibly have worked as you suggest, but many switches and track segments in general aren't close to any edge. It's not always possible to reach the track location with a clamp, although there are various woodworking clamps that have a deeper reach than the one-hander clamp I used. So yes, start laying the track if it can be reached via a clamp, otherwise, the trial-and-error is also a good way to go.
Really didn't think of that nut what was in front of me at the time. Still nice video and real nice process. Look forward to seeing more...
Biggest issue i have with flex is not being able to get the rail joiners on, and when then are N scale, they are friggin tiny so not easy to readjust the size,
I like the progressive clamping method. However it doesn't seem to be suitable for track that isn't right at the edge of an open sub roadbed.
The track doesn't need to be at the edge of the sub roadbed. That's just how this example happened to work out. You do a bend on the track near the edge of a work surface of some kind (does not need to be the layout sub roadbed. A scrap of plywood extending over the edge of a workbench is fine too, for example) where you can engage the clamps, test fit the track in its appropriate place wherever it goes on the layout, then go back and adjust the bend as needed.
Hi, it's easy to bend and adjust the track at the edge of a workbench or some such, then transfer that track to the desired installation space once it's shaped as desired.
So I am new to scale modeling. Was wondering why you dont have crok bed laid?
Hi, I don't use cork because I don't need it. I spike my track directly to the Homasote sub roadbed, which takes spikes well and holds them fairly securely. Later the track will be further secured in place with the usual glued-down ballast. We're modeling the Sugar Pine Lumber Company circa September 1927, and like most logging companies, they didn't do a lot of ballast shaping and such as was standard for the larger Class 1 railroads. They pretty much laid their track on the flat graded surface and piled on whatever was handy as "ballast", in this case, it was often the fill material removed while grading the ROW or simple mix of decomposed granite soil and rocks. Thus, we don't need the shaped ballast contour provided by cork roadbed.
Curving the flex track .
So why didn't you just do it in position instead of moving it and flipping it?
I can only speak for how I do this, but I need to clamp the track securely before making any curvature and shape changes. The edge of the subroadbed is where my clamps will fit. I don't have clamps with deep enough jaws to reach all the way into the middle of the subroadbed, so I clamp at the edge, shape, test fit and repeat. It works for me because I'm not in a hurry.
OK....I have bought ME flex track and Atlas flex-track, all Code 83. Atlas bends easily. ME (Shinora) does not...ME has a "tool" available to assist. So, carry on.....
That's one of the great things about this hobby, for any given technical process to pursue, there are usually several viable ways to accomplish the task. That flexibility makes it easy to choose the one that works best for each modeler.
I was wondering if you knew what the "tool" is called? I am looking for one
Contact Micro Engineering to find out, it's their tool product so they can tell you what it is and where to buy it.
Micro Engineering and Shinohara are two different brands of track. Shinohara is manufactured in Japan by Shinohara, which also manufactures the Walthers lines of track. Micro Engineering is made in St. Louis, Missouri. Shinohara bends somewhat easier than ME, and ME is the real challenge to work with until you get the hang of it. ME can be a PITA but once it's shaped and in place it looks great and works well.
@@JeffJohnston thanks Jeff!
Perfect example of how NOT to do it
Interesting - and you're wrong. I presume you watched the entire video (and not just the first 10 seconds before passing your judgement) and saw that the system works well for us, has always worked well in the past, and continues to work well, but even with that clear and accurate evidence that the system works, how did you conclude it's the wrong thing to do? Perhaps you can enlighten us about what you see as a proper way to accomplish the same thing and explain why you wrongly see the system I detailed as a bad idea.