Hey, that’s awesome you did this yourself! How did you clean the hull (the before photo was so dull and after is so much shinier). I’m currently doing up my alloy boat too so would love to know how you cleaned her up. We used stainless steel brushes and carbide burrs... thanks
Carbide Burrs are great, SS Brush is good by hand only if good quality and kept clean and away from contamination. Rotary SS brushes are not my favorite thing, they can leave little bits of themselves (like micro scale) embedded in the aluminum-- point of corrosion. Also whole hairs can fly off and get lost in the bilge or jammed under a stringer to fester. The best thing I have found is clean with soap and hot water first! acetone too if particularly dirty BEFORE using a scotch bright flapper disk on a grinder. Expensive but soooooo worth it. www.google.com/search?q=scotch+brite+flapper+disk+on+a+grinder&safe=strict&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02HE2DaEhwM3us3nEQ3kQUQdYed6Q:1587005536921&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwipo6Oq-OvoAhVJWysKHUGVBMEQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1852&bih=1077#imgrc=Pg_pQs1wavlxxM
When the electric is consumable like MIG i.e. the electrode is melted, you use DC. When the electric is not consumable and you add filler like TIG then Ac is used. Ac has a lot of advantages for control and cleanliness but is more time-consuming and requires more precision by the user. Any old MIG can do electrode positive DC aluminum welding. But it’s finicky to get the Settings just right. Try to Google search spray transfer Aluminum mig , and AC TIG welding and there will be lots of information. So to answer your question I’m doing electrode positive DC MIG welding, With a cheap piece of sh!t Welder.
Thanks for making it. I am in the process of learning aluminium mig weld to build my dinghy and start repairing my boat.
Great video. Thanks for posting this!
Great job !
Many thanks for this video
Hey, that’s awesome you did this yourself! How did you clean the hull (the before photo was so dull and after is so much shinier). I’m currently doing up my alloy boat too so would love to know how you cleaned her up. We used stainless steel brushes and carbide burrs... thanks
Carbide Burrs are great, SS Brush is good by hand only if good quality and kept clean and away from contamination. Rotary SS brushes are not my favorite thing, they can leave little bits of themselves (like micro scale) embedded in the aluminum-- point of corrosion. Also whole hairs can fly off and get lost in the bilge or jammed under a stringer to fester. The best thing I have found is clean with soap and hot water first! acetone too if particularly dirty BEFORE using a scotch bright flapper disk on a grinder. Expensive but soooooo worth it. www.google.com/search?q=scotch+brite+flapper+disk+on+a+grinder&safe=strict&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02HE2DaEhwM3us3nEQ3kQUQdYed6Q:1587005536921&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwipo6Oq-OvoAhVJWysKHUGVBMEQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1852&bih=1077#imgrc=Pg_pQs1wavlxxM
Are you welding with AC or DC? I was under the impression that aluminum welding is only done with AC ....
When the electric is consumable like MIG i.e. the electrode is melted, you use DC. When the electric is not consumable and you add filler like TIG then Ac is used. Ac has a lot of advantages for control and cleanliness but is more time-consuming and requires more precision by the user. Any old MIG can do electrode positive DC aluminum welding. But it’s finicky to get the Settings just right. Try to Google search spray transfer Aluminum mig , and AC TIG welding and there will be lots of information. So to answer your question I’m doing electrode positive DC MIG welding, With a cheap piece of sh!t Welder.
Old motor oil in the bilge of an aluminum boat will stop any corrosion from forming.