everytime i go to add a new mod to my boat i google how to do it and everytime the green machine has already got a vid waiting for me :) pretty cool love ur work
One can build a bracket to mount to the rear of the transom corner brace, with enough setback depth to keep the body of the filter out of harms way ( but serviceable), and avoiding messing with your hull side. Awesome information! Stay safe.
Ha! We just went to take our first boat away for its maiden run and smelled a fuel leak. Mongrel to get at, wasn't sure about thread sealant or bleeding air out of the system, but of course Dangar Stu has me covered! I think every question I've had you've had a video on ... Thanks! Great channel. Cheers PP
So agree with what you say about getting a feel for bolt torque being vital, luckily I got it fairly quickly as a kid and never really thought about it but it was about twenty years before someone pointed out to me that the force you exert is about the same no matter what size the bolt because the spanner lengths are designed to match the size and give you the right leverage to apply the appropriate torque for general use if you have "average" strength.
Absolutely correct. Unfortunately with plastic fitting and tapered fittings I’ve found it more difficult to judge the correct torque, especially when using a sealant which also reduces friction while torquing things down. Fortunately most good quality fittings are generally forgiving, especially when new.
Great video Stu. Where I am located in NJ USA ethanol is in all our fuel at 10%. One of these filters is a must as ethanol attracts water like a magnet. My big boat with the Yamaha 150 has one installed, I will be adding one to my small boat with the evinrude 48 next season. Thanks for the video!
Great job on this - really key to have this on a boat, surprised it didn't already have one. I think I would have put in on the inside of the brace, facing towards the stern. The space under the brace is wasted space and it would have been out of the way. Kind of a pain to install this way, but you only have to do that once.
Again, always the best videos on boat work. Would love to have a cup of coffee with you someday but a couple of thousand miles difference make that hard. Thank you for the best videos on youTube
Another video that was very informative and easy.looks like the only hard part finding a place to put it. thanks for your time and effort. peace from Canada.
Hi mate. Yeah, it can be tricky on some boats. If you really can't find anywhere you might be best to make up an aluminium bracket for it and rivet that on somewhere.
I've mounted & installed several of these, be sure to mount it more out of the way, like to one side or out of sight even. They do not capture very much water if you are ethanol free, but a must do for any and all outboards or any engine for that matter.
i love the details you put in your videos Man , very intelligent and smart working skills you have :) watching your video i can carry all the services on my outboard , before i used to pay $700 for a service lol thanks alot for sharing these videos:)
Lesson learnt, it happened to me the Tank cap with fuel gauge broken and I left outside 3 weeks thought everything is okay when I tested but when on the lake the engine bogged down due to rain water in the tank, luckily I had two tanks and switched and start the engine took long time to start but after it's started the new fresh gas ran okay.
A good clear video once again, well done Dan. For me though, if I had two engines and two tanks, I would have two fuel filters! But tat is just my aircraft/navy training of keeping things separate, and if I could afford two engines, I could afford two filters :-) . As the fuel system up to the engine is not pressurised I don't think there is much chance of a fuel leak at higher flow rates, may be air leaks, but not fuel. Priming the system and then letting it sit for a few days to see if a leak occurs is good idea though.
Hey Ron, very good point about having things completely separate. If you get water in one fuel tank, you don't want to take out both motors! You are right about leaks too. Really you are causing a bit of a vacuum so sucking in air at high revs is more likely, although not quite as dangerous as leaking fuel everywhere. ;) I've certainly seen problems with boats though where it would run well at low speed then struggle at high speed and it turned out to be a split in the fuel hose sucking air with no signs of a leak.
For those who follow and are doing fuel line upgrades , I too have found disappointment in the oem standards regards to the fuel side of engines. Here we have a boating industry that I have seen use clamps and hoses on sub floor tanks that have no flaring for clamps to work under pressure and hoses just slide off over time or clamps that rust away. Some may find some fuel primer devices some what restrictive if they need gravity fed or very low vacuum requirements. Best to test bench these primers before having issues on the water. The hard plastic tanks need upgrading to have high point blow off valves installed for pressure discharge and better low point fuel pick up design to the tanks so no air gets sucked in when your trying to avoid hitting rocks in odd rough whether, you don't need a stalled engine at this point when your on your last tank 1/4. In filters fuel should travel to the base water trap first leaving water behind before traveling up through the filter element. Hope this paragraph/comment saves some lives.
Gday mate i put one of these in my last boat but had it after the bulb fixed to the back of the rear seat i dont know if it makes any difference at all but i didnt have any problems ,used to drain the clear sight bowl at the end of winter ready for the summer season good piece of kit i think dont want no nasties getting through even though thier is a filter on the side of the engine anyway good video.
I think it's pretty 50/50 where you put the primer bulb. The idea with having it afterwards is that you can supply direct pressure to the outboard, but once the bowl is full its going to have the same effect, and it does make it easier to fill the bowl from empty.
You refuse to call it un boxing, Funny. Anyway, I read all posts first, looking for an answer so i wouldn't be one of those that ask a question that's already been answered. Just got a boat, has water-separator, solid, no bowl, or drain, but they have it installed seemingly upside down. Filter on top, inlet and outlet lines on bottom. I can find lots of info about them, but nothing about if the solid ones can be upside down. or not.
Hi mate, no, they definitely need to be installed with the bowl hanging down. Water and debris are both heavier than fuel and need gravity to trap them in the filter.
Thanks for this series of vids on the Green Machine. I'm new to boating and it's nice seeing each component of a boat laid out in a vid. Best of luck on the project mate!
How often do these need to be replaced? What about the ones withOUT the clear bowl at the bottom--replacement time? Thanks for all the great videos you've made! I'm a boat newbie and they are really helpful!
Hello Mr. Dangar I'm currently restoring a pontoon boat which has a 115 HP Johnson 2 stroke and I'm planning on installing a water separator just like yours. My question is "will my motor being a 2 stroke work properly with a water separator since its oil and gas mixed? "
Hi John, installing a water separator like this with a 2 stroke is no problem at all, it won't affect the oil and will definitely help protect you from water.
Thanks for this video, I have a question: I didn't notice you bleed the filter where did all the air go? There must have 1/2 litre of air in the filter. If it's because the engine has carbys and the primer goes hard once air has passed and fuel has filled the bowls to operating level I can understand. I have a 2022 Yamaha 60 which I think would have injectors, I would think the system would need bleeding at the filter once installed. Please share your understanding on the matter
I am a huge fan of your videos! They have helped me so much as a new boat owner. My question is if you have the simpler filter with no clear bowl on the bottom, can you unscrew it and dump it all out? Or should it just be replaced when you remove water? Thanks!
Hey Will. I definitely think these filters are essential too. As for the location I think there are pros and cons to both possible position. You are right in that it can be harder to prime with it after, but one it is done I prefer to have it closer to the outboard itself.
I am installing the same filter but with two fuel tanks. I was thinking of putting a priming bulbs between each tank and the filter, can you see any problems with this? I was using the priming bulbs to stop any back flow between the tanks, does this make sense? You are pitching your videos so a novice like me can under stand what I am doing. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thanks for the video. Trying to knock out various bits of service on the used boat I bought last summer while it's still winter and this is one of them. My kit is missing the barbed connectors and hose clamps so I'm going to have to run back to the shop tomorrow. Since my boat hasn't had a water separator in it for who knows how long should I expect the filter to foul quickly?
I spend way to much time watching your videos. Thank you for them. My question is about the primer bulb. My outboard loses it's prime easily and I've seen some videos recommending placing the bulb in a vertical position as opposed to horizontal. I'm aware that there is a one-way diaphragm in the entry end it which is supposed to not allow the fuel to run back to the tank however would a small amount of siphon pressure overcome the diaphragm and weep off the pressure? or perhaps it's the quality of the bulb itself. Thanks for the great work.
+Linden Dickerson Hi Linden. As coincidence would have it a video on exactly that is uploading now. Hopefully it will answer your question but you should also check all your hose clamps and the hose itself for any splits or cracks.
What are you supposed to do with the fuel tank vents? When should they be opened? When should they be closed? Is it different if they are portable tanks vs built in tanks? Seems like always open is the thing to do with portable so they don't collapse when running and don't swell in the sun. Built ins aren't in the sun so close when not in use?
With the “two in, two out” bracket, can you run one single fuel water separator for twin engines? In other words, for the sake of saving space, could I get away with mounting one “two in, two out” filter for my twin Yamaha F100’s? I have single 90 gallon fuel tank, with two independent fuel lines to each engine. Also, will one 90gph, 10 micron filter suffice for my application? Dangar Marine has the best content for engine repairs/maintenance. Best regards from Sunny San Diego, California!
When I fitted my separator I did tank, bulb, separator , engine am I wrong it works ok the reason I did it was because the volume of air in the separator and line I thought it wouldn't prime cheers jeff
I think you’re correct, because if you put the bulb between the filter and the motor, you’re expecting the rubber bulb to pull suction through the filter. If you put the bulb between the tank and filter, your hand strength squeeze on the bulb pushes the fuel through the filter and the bulb only pulls fuel up from the tank. Make sense? Cheers, Bob
Hi. a few months ago, I added this exact water separating filter to my boat. Previously, I just had a spin on fuel filter. Yesterday, I decided to drain the bowl and I drained a lot of gas into a Jar. My assumption is that the bowl is full of gas, and since water is heavier, it collects at the bottom - thus I only need to drain a small amount from the bowl? Is that a correct assumption? Or is something wrong with my filter? I was expecting to only drain a little water out. I was surprised when I got a large Jar of gas. Many thanks!
If you don't have any water in your fuel, the bowl will contain nothing but pure petrol. The idea is that you will be able to see a thin layer of water in the bottom of the clear bowl if it is there and you just need to drain that off until the bowl is clear again.
Is there a difference between having the primer bulb connected to the input side of the filter? The Eastener which I have just purchased has a replacement cardboard “corrugated” filter. What’s the difference between that and the metal one which you have please?
9.9 Johnson is my outboard i have . When making my new fuel lines should i put an inline filter in there somewhere ? And just where should the primer bulb be placed ? Thanks for the good video .
Does it matter where you have the Primer Bulb? Mine is between Tote Tank & Filter then from Filter is straight hose to Outboard. Shall i put Bulb in between Filter & Outboard like you have yours? Or is it okay how it is. Cheers
I am a huge fan of your videos! They have been so helpful to me as a new boater. I have the filter without the bowl am curious if I can take it off and dump the water out periodically, or if the filter needs to be replaced if I take it off. Additionally, I'm curious if the fittings are universal and I can change out to a filter with a clear bowl next time.
You can tip it out periodically. I would do it into a clear jar so you can see if there is any water in it. Yep, the head of the unit is universal so you can definitely change to a filter with a bowl next time.
Maybe I got a bad brand, but I had one just like that on my old boat and it was hell every year getting that plastic bowl to separate from the filter. Even if I used a vice the inner portion of the filter would spin with the bowl and the gasketed surface wouldn't let go. I would have to hammer a screw driver through the filter, then put it into the vice, then use a pipe wrench on the bowl.
How do I know if the gear change on the base is wrong on Mercury 150 Hp optimax, because there is only forward, no way to adjust on cable. no reverse. How to adjust the exact position on base, before putting it back
Question is, could you have 2 fuel tanks connected to the filter and so it draws fuel from either tanks to 1 outboard ? So 2 in to the filter and 1 out to the outboard?
Yes, and it has been so much better than that grey hose you often see. It is on the water and out in the Australian sun every day and is still perfect.
Write the date installed & engine hours with a permanent marker on the side of the filter so you know when it was installed & how many service hours are on it.
Excellent video, thank you sharing your knowledge. I have one question about the fuel line hose .... I see you use an NBR/CR hose ... are these UV resistant ? I have a 2 stroke 30hp yamaha type: 30DEO ... is a hose with an internal diameter 6mm sufficient ? Thank you in advance.
Hi Dan, another great video so many thanks for posting. Is there anything to be mindful of when selecting the filter in terms of filtration ability? I have seen filters ranging from 2 to 30 microns. Regards and thanks, Peter
Personally I installed this more for protection from water than filtering of particles so I haven't really investigated how fine the filter is. I'll have to look tomorrow though to see where it sits on the spectrum.
Question i have a leaking fuel/water separator at the fitting and hose meeting point. Would that cause air into line and not allow my motor to crank over?
I think everyone that's spun a spanner has done the old "oh s$h1t!, i think I've done that up a bit too tight...., yep, I've split it!" I double hose clamp every fuel hose if possible; thought I read somewhere that double clamping was the "industry standard" In fact, just recently noticed that the triple clamped fill hose on a boat was ever so slightly leaking......... ok they were a tad loose but I'll pull the hose off and use a bit of stag paste before summer. My first boat came with a spin on water separating filter that didn't have a clear bowl. When I changed it, (to one with a clear bowl) it was 99% full of water!
Hi dangar Hope that you are well,charli also I have a mercury m2 jetdrive and would like to flush it using a cleaning liquid and mini pump before putting a new quicksilver hi performance oil. What do you recomend to flush it ? Kerosene,diesel,petrol or maybe dexron 3 atf . Pls advise
What's that bracket made of, metal, or some sort of plastic? Is it because of ethanol in fuel these days (at least here in the US), and separation can easily happen? Or do you have some other issues with fuel and water for boating? RichE
The bracket on this one was aluminium. Good question about the water in fuel, I think there are a few reasons. One is that the fuel tanks are underground near a water way as we buy it from marinas. Another is that the marinas don't have the turn over that a busy petrol station will have so the fuel is older. Outboard tanks have breathers that are exposed to the rain and the bilges often have water in them where the fuel lines run. I think it is a combination of all these things that makes boats particularly bad.
Are there instances where mounting a fuel water separator too high can result in loss of prime with air in the system? I changed over from a sierra 18-7945 to the yamaha filter. The yamaha filter was twice as deep! Now I am having trouble with the primer ball getting empty of fuel and the motor starving itself. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
Where did you get that thread goop from? I looked everywhere for it. Ended up settling for Fuel resistant gasket maker. Got the hardening variety so it's also working as a thread locker. It works but I'm not sure it's ideal.
Excellent and helpful video.Can I ask you,there is already separating fuel filter but I want to give one more outline for the small engine.Can it work by the same inline for the big outboards?(I can't create a new one inport for the small engine)thank you dangar marine💪🏻
You need to make sure the air can escape while priming, so sometimes for the initial priming I will take the end of the fuel line that connects to the outboard until the priming is finished. Either than for use a screwdriver to push the ball bearing in that closes the valve. Filling the filter with fuel first obviously helps too.
Do the plugs have to be added? And if they are not what are the effects? I bought a boat and I've noticed the plugs are not added and I've been having the hardest time figuring why every primer bulb I use loses prime
Thanks for putting all this up. I have the same fuel filter and I would like to connect a second tank to it I also want to empty one tank first before starting on the second one. What would be the best way to set that up? Thanks,Joe.
The easiest way to do that would be to use one of the standard outboard quick connect fittings at the tanks end and just swap the hose over once one tank is getting low. If you want them both connected permanently you are going to need to put shutoff valves on the inlet ports at the fuel filter.
Because of the positions of the tanks I will have to plumb them both in - do you think I be better to go from each tank to one of those 3 port selector valves and then into a port on the filter or each hose through its own valve and into seperate ports on the filter ? Thanks again. Joe
Thanks Stu. Please comment on Merc I/O fuel-water separator filters that don't have the clear bottom and drain valve. They look like an oil filter. Do you have to dump them out periodically to remove the water? I just replace them seasonally. Good enough?
Hey Bruce. Just replacing them seasonally is fine. The only exception would be if you got a load of water in the fuel tank from being left open in the rain or something.
Good question. I would be inclined to change it once a year, but we do quite a few hours each year. I think you could easily get away with every years if you have never had to drain water out of it and the boat is stored somewhere dry.
Ah, just saw you answered this in the comments section - once a year if no water in fuel issues. That being said, if there is water in the fuel, then do you have to change it immediately after draining?
I wouldn't change it immediately, no. You might want to flush it out with some methylated spirits though to makes sure it is clean again. I mostly change them each year because they start to corrode.
Curious: Would it not have been a better mounting to place it inside that corner brace (same holes) thereby protecting it from any strikes and just not being in your way? Regards, good vids.
Dangar Marine has been my goto for everything boating. I’m a ‘newie’ to boating and these vids have been brilliant.
everytime i go to add a new mod to my boat i google how to do it and everytime the green machine has already got a vid waiting for me :) pretty cool love ur work
I'm pretty laid back but the Green Machine has plans for world domination. ;)
hahahahah
Your videos are second to none. I'm a mechanical and electrical power engineer, now enjoying retirement fixing boats 🚢😎
Refuse to call it an "unboxing"..... Now i love your videos even more.... keep up the good work and info. Thanks. Happy new year.
Happy new year!
YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY INSTRUCTIVE AND YOUR EXPLANATIONS ARE VERY GOOD. I HAVE LEARNED A LOT FOR YOUR TIME IN MAKING THESE VIDEOS, THANKS MATE
You're welcome mate. :)
Great video Dangar.
I’m installing a Sierra filter for my 1995 Johnson 130hp. I was shocked to learn my boat never had one.
Thanks to your videos my outboard is running a lot better now
Glad to hear that. :)
One can build a bracket to mount to the rear of the transom corner brace, with enough setback depth to keep the body of the filter out of harms way ( but serviceable), and avoiding messing with your hull side. Awesome information! Stay safe.
Excellent video. As a newbie these videos are great. Getting my first boat this weekend and these videos are a great help.
Thanks mate. Congratulations on your new boat. Enjoy! :)
Great video, will be installing one soon on my new first boat, had no idea about the importance of these filters. Cheers
Danger, thanks from San Francisco. Really like your common sense approach and easy to follow instructions.
You're welcome Alan, glad you liked the vids. :)
Thanks for the video! Really appreciate your practical approach to marine repair & projects w/out all the fluff -
Thanks Jack, glad you liked it. :)
Ha! We just went to take our first boat away for its maiden run and smelled a fuel leak. Mongrel to get at, wasn't sure about thread sealant or bleeding air out of the system, but of course Dangar Stu has me covered! I think every question I've had you've had a video on ... Thanks! Great channel. Cheers PP
Glad the video helped you. :)
The most valuable accessory to any petrol or diesel engine. It will save the pump carb or injection system!
It's a great way to get water out of a built in fuel tank as well. Great vid.
Great video, best I've seen on replacement 😀
So agree with what you say about getting a feel for bolt torque being vital, luckily I got it fairly quickly as a kid and never really thought about it but it was about twenty years before someone pointed out to me that the force you exert is about the same no matter what size the bolt because the spanner lengths are designed to match the size and give you the right leverage to apply the appropriate torque for general use if you have "average" strength.
Yep, there is a reason all those spanners are different sizes, you are dead right. :)
Absolutely correct. Unfortunately with plastic fitting and tapered fittings I’ve found it more difficult to judge the correct torque, especially when using a sealant which also reduces friction while torquing things down. Fortunately most good quality fittings are generally forgiving, especially when new.
Great video Stu. Where I am located in NJ USA ethanol is in all our fuel at 10%. One of these filters is a must as ethanol attracts water like a magnet. My big boat with the Yamaha 150 has one installed, I will be adding one to my small boat with the evinrude 48 next season. Thanks for the video!
Yeah, ethanol really is an issue in boats and for sure these filters are a must. Always good to have a winter project. :)
Great job on this - really key to have this on a boat, surprised it didn't already have one. I think I would have put in on the inside of the brace, facing towards the stern. The space under the brace is wasted space and it would have been out of the way. Kind of a pain to install this way, but you only have to do that once.
Again, always the best videos on boat work. Would love to have a cup of coffee with you someday but a couple of thousand miles difference make that hard. Thank you for the best videos on youTube
Maybe one day!
Another video that was very informative and easy.looks like the only hard part finding a place to put it. thanks for your time and effort. peace from Canada.
Hi mate. Yeah, it can be tricky on some boats. If you really can't find anywhere you might be best to make up an aluminium bracket for it and rivet that on somewhere.
Nice work the green machine in looking great so far 👍🏼
Thanks Andy, it's starting to get there!:)
I've mounted & installed several of these, be sure to mount it more out of the way, like to one side or out of sight even. They do not capture very much water if you are ethanol free, but a must do for any and all outboards or any engine for that matter.
i love the details you put in your videos Man , very intelligent and smart working skills you have :)
watching your video i can carry all the services on my outboard , before i used to pay $700 for a service lol
thanks alot for sharing these videos:)
Thanks mate, great to hear the videos are helping you. :)
Lesson learnt, it happened to me the Tank cap with fuel gauge broken and I left outside 3 weeks thought everything is okay when I tested but when on the lake the engine bogged down due to rain water in the tank, luckily I had two tanks and switched and start the engine took long time to start but after it's started the new fresh gas ran okay.
A good clear video once again, well done Dan. For me though, if I had two engines and two tanks, I would have two fuel filters! But tat is just my aircraft/navy training of keeping things separate, and if I could afford two engines, I could afford two filters :-) . As the fuel system up to the engine is not pressurised I don't think there is much chance of a fuel leak at higher flow rates, may be air leaks, but not fuel. Priming the system and then letting it sit for a few days to see if a leak occurs is good idea though.
Hey Ron, very good point about having things completely separate. If you get water in one fuel tank, you don't want to take out both motors! You are right about leaks too. Really you are causing a bit of a vacuum so sucking in air at high revs is more likely, although not quite as dangerous as leaking fuel everywhere. ;) I've certainly seen problems with boats though where it would run well at low speed then struggle at high speed and it turned out to be a split in the fuel hose sucking air with no signs of a leak.
I have 2 fuel filters (4 if you count the ones in the motors), but only one fuel-water separator
Enjoyed the video. I actually need to put one in my boat.
They are well worth installing.
For those who follow and are doing fuel line upgrades , I too have found disappointment in the oem standards regards to the fuel side of engines. Here we have a boating industry that I have seen use clamps and hoses on sub floor tanks that have no flaring for clamps to work under pressure and hoses just slide off over time or clamps that rust away. Some may find some fuel primer devices some what restrictive if they need gravity fed or very low vacuum requirements. Best to test bench these primers before having issues on the water. The hard plastic tanks need upgrading to have high point blow off valves installed for pressure discharge and better low point fuel pick up design to the tanks so no air gets sucked in when your trying to avoid hitting rocks in odd rough whether, you don't need a stalled engine at this point when your on your last tank 1/4. In filters fuel should travel to the base water trap first leaving water behind before traveling up through the filter element. Hope this paragraph/comment saves some lives.
Gday mate i put one of these in my last boat but had it after the bulb fixed to the back of the rear seat i dont know if it makes any difference at all but i didnt have any problems ,used to drain the clear sight bowl at the end of winter ready for the summer season good piece of kit i think dont want no nasties getting through even though thier is a filter on the side of the engine anyway good video.
I think it's pretty 50/50 where you put the primer bulb. The idea with having it afterwards is that you can supply direct pressure to the outboard, but once the bowl is full its going to have the same effect, and it does make it easier to fill the bowl from empty.
great vid good info ..i really enjoy a binge on your vids ,and now before i do anything on my boat i check if you have a vid on it...keep em coming,,
Thanks Jason, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Nice one, just ordered this after getting my engine back coz it had shit in the carb gonna fit it myself now I know what to do cheers ;)
These filters are a real life saver, I reckon there should be one in every boat. :)
You refuse to call it un boxing, Funny. Anyway, I read all posts first, looking for an answer so i wouldn't be one of those that ask a question that's already been answered. Just got a boat, has water-separator, solid, no bowl, or drain, but they have it installed seemingly upside down. Filter on top, inlet and outlet lines on bottom. I can find lots of info about them, but nothing about if the solid ones can be upside down. or not.
Hi mate, no, they definitely need to be installed with the bowl hanging down. Water and debris are both heavier than fuel and need gravity to trap them in the filter.
Thanks for this series of vids on the Green Machine. I'm new to boating and it's nice seeing each component of a boat laid out in a vid. Best of luck on the project mate!
Thanks mate, it should be back on the water soon. :)
I love the way you say aluminum took me awhile to realize what you were talking about lol.
+Pink da fluff ball is cute I should do American subtitles!
Excellent video as usual.
Thanks Tony. :)
Quick and practical guide thanks
You're welcome. :)
Great Videos. Do tou think is a must to have a Fuel water separator in 4 stroke fuel injected outboards?
Excellent video on how to install a fuel water separator kit. Thanks.
Thanks Tom!
Thumbs up from the other side of the world, I really like your vids can't wait for the next one to pop up..;)
Thanks Kees. I presume you are in the Netherlands which is where my mother was from. :)
That's correct, Katwijk located at the Northsee 30km under Amsterdam..
6:35 thank you mate love your vids
Another super helpful video. Thanks Mate.
great instructional video, thanks for posting
You're welcome. :)
How often do these need to be replaced? What about the ones withOUT the clear bowl at the bottom--replacement time?
Thanks for all the great videos you've made! I'm a boat newbie and they are really helpful!
Great video with lots of good tips.
You are the best brother thanks so much for ur sharing
My pleasure
Hello Mr. Dangar
I'm currently restoring a pontoon boat which has a 115 HP Johnson 2 stroke and I'm planning on installing a water separator just like yours. My question is "will my motor being a 2 stroke work properly with a water separator since its oil and gas mixed? "
Hi John, installing a water separator like this with a 2 stroke is no problem at all, it won't affect the oil and will definitely help protect you from water.
great instruction-thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video, I have a question: I didn't notice you bleed the filter where did all the air go? There must have 1/2 litre of air in the filter. If it's because the engine has carbys and the primer goes hard once air has passed and fuel has filled the bowls to operating level I can understand. I have a 2022 Yamaha 60 which I think would have injectors, I would think the system would need bleeding at the filter once installed. Please share your understanding on the matter
I am a huge fan of your videos! They have helped me so much as a new boat owner. My question is if you have the simpler filter with no clear bowl on the bottom, can you unscrew it and dump it all out? Or should it just be replaced when you remove water? Thanks!
You can tip it out periodically. I would do it into a clear jar so you can see if there is any water in it.
I prefer to have the primer bulb before the filter to make initial filling of the filter easy. All boats should in my opinion have a water separator.
Hey Will. I definitely think these filters are essential too. As for the location I think there are pros and cons to both possible position. You are right in that it can be harder to prime with it after, but one it is done I prefer to have it closer to the outboard itself.
I am installing the same filter but with two fuel tanks. I was thinking of putting a priming bulbs between each tank and the filter, can you see any problems with this? I was using the priming bulbs to stop any back flow between the tanks, does this make sense?
You are pitching your videos so a novice like me can under stand what I am doing. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thanks for the video. Trying to knock out various bits of service on the used boat I bought last summer while it's still winter and this is one of them. My kit is missing the barbed connectors and hose clamps so I'm going to have to run back to the shop tomorrow. Since my boat hasn't had a water separator in it for who knows how long should I expect the filter to foul quickly?
Hi Dan, good video. What's the trick in putting on the fuel line onto the nipple that screws into the housing. Thanks Kieran
I spend way to much time watching your videos. Thank you for them. My question is about the primer bulb. My outboard loses it's prime easily and I've seen some videos recommending placing the bulb in a vertical position as opposed to horizontal. I'm aware that there is a one-way diaphragm in the entry end it which is supposed to not allow the fuel to run back to the tank however would a small amount of siphon pressure overcome the diaphragm and weep off the pressure? or perhaps it's the quality of the bulb itself.
Thanks for the great work.
+Linden Dickerson Hi Linden. As coincidence would have it a video on exactly that is uploading now. Hopefully it will answer your question but you should also check all your hose clamps and the hose itself for any splits or cracks.
Another great video!
Thanks mate. :)
Got the same filter on my boat.
"Clockwise as always" while screwing on Anti-Clockwise. ;-)
It's all a matter of perspective. ;)
I always use the term "Lefty Loosen" to undo things, so it's right to tighten.
You should write a book,
Thanks.
Very good video! That was what I needed! Thank you very much👏🏻👏🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid, purchasing now
What are you supposed to do with the fuel tank vents? When should they be opened? When should they be closed? Is it different if they are portable tanks vs built in tanks? Seems like always open is the thing to do with portable so they don't collapse when running and don't swell in the sun. Built ins aren't in the sun so close when not in use?
Yes, I generally close when not in use and open before starting the engine.
Have you heard about Mallory filters? I cannot find a unit like I saw in a Mallory video. Thanks for all your work.
Can't say I have ever heard of Mallory, sorry.
With the “two in, two out” bracket, can you run one single fuel water separator for twin engines? In other words, for the sake of saving space, could I get away with mounting one “two in, two out” filter for my twin Yamaha F100’s? I have single 90 gallon fuel tank, with two independent fuel lines to each engine. Also, will one 90gph, 10 micron filter suffice for my application? Dangar Marine has the best content for engine repairs/maintenance. Best regards from Sunny San Diego, California!
When I fitted my separator I did tank, bulb, separator , engine am I wrong it works ok the reason I did it was because the volume of air in the separator and line I thought it wouldn't prime cheers jeff
Hi Jeff, that's fine. Either way the fuel will flow through the filter.
I think you’re correct, because if you put the bulb between the filter and the motor, you’re expecting the rubber bulb to pull suction through the filter. If you put the bulb between the tank and filter, your hand strength squeeze on the bulb pushes the fuel through the filter and the bulb only pulls fuel up from the tank. Make sense? Cheers, Bob
Hi. a few months ago, I added this exact water separating filter to my boat. Previously, I just had a spin on fuel filter. Yesterday, I decided to drain the bowl and I drained a lot of gas into a Jar. My assumption is that the bowl is full of gas, and since water is heavier, it collects at the bottom - thus I only need to drain a small amount from the bowl? Is that a correct assumption? Or is something wrong with my filter? I was expecting to only drain a little water out. I was surprised when I got a large Jar of gas. Many thanks!
If you don't have any water in your fuel, the bowl will contain nothing but pure petrol. The idea is that you will be able to see a thin layer of water in the bottom of the clear bowl if it is there and you just need to drain that off until the bowl is clear again.
Many thanks!!! :-)
wow just did this last week. Wish I could have seen this video!
How did it go?
+Dangar Marine it was frustrating at first but eventually I got it and it ran smoothly
Is there a difference between having the primer bulb connected to the input side of the filter? The Eastener which I have just purchased has a replacement cardboard “corrugated” filter. What’s the difference between that and the metal one which you have please?
9.9 Johnson is my outboard i have . When making my new fuel lines should i put an inline filter in there somewhere ? And just where should the primer bulb be placed ? Thanks for the good video .
Does it matter where you have the Primer Bulb? Mine is between Tote Tank & Filter then from Filter is straight hose to Outboard. Shall i put Bulb in between Filter & Outboard like you have yours? Or is it okay how it is. Cheers
I am a huge fan of your videos! They have been so helpful to me as a new boater. I have the filter without the bowl am curious if I can take it off and dump the water out periodically, or if the filter needs to be replaced if I take it off. Additionally, I'm curious if the fittings are universal and I can change out to a filter with a clear bowl next time.
You can tip it out periodically. I would do it into a clear jar so you can see if there is any water in it. Yep, the head of the unit is universal so you can definitely change to a filter with a bowl next time.
Maybe I got a bad brand, but I had one just like that on my old boat and it was hell every year getting that plastic bowl to separate from the filter. Even if I used a vice the inner portion of the filter would spin with the bowl and the gasketed surface wouldn't let go. I would have to hammer a screw driver through the filter, then put it into the vice, then use a pipe wrench on the bowl.
It can help a lot if you put a smear of rubber grease around it before assembling it.
Very usefull..thanks
Welcome 😊
How do I know if the gear change on the base is wrong on Mercury 150 Hp optimax, because there is only forward, no way to adjust on cable. no reverse. How to adjust the exact position on base, before putting it back
Thanks for the vid. You leave the original filter under the cowling in place when using these as an additional filter right?
That is correct
Dan curious do these water filters catch other contaminants also or jus water? Always great videos to get lost in!
Question is, could you have 2 fuel tanks connected to the filter and so it draws fuel from either tanks to 1 outboard ? So 2 in to the filter and 1 out to the outboard?
Did you use automobile grade hose on the fuel bulb?
Yes, and it has been so much better than that grey hose you often see. It is on the water and out in the Australian sun every day and is still perfect.
Write the date installed & engine hours with a permanent marker on the side of the filter so you know when it was installed & how many service hours are on it.
Can you use these on a 2 stroke outboard as well
Excellent video, thank you sharing your knowledge. I have one question about the fuel line hose .... I see you use an NBR/CR hose ... are these UV resistant ? I have a 2 stroke 30hp yamaha type: 30DEO ... is a hose with an internal diameter 6mm sufficient ? Thank you in advance.
Thanks make, Yes, NBR/CR is UV resistant and 6mm is fine for a 30 HP.
Hi Dan, another great video so many thanks for posting.
Is there anything to be mindful of when selecting the filter in terms of filtration ability? I have seen filters ranging from 2 to 30 microns.
Regards and thanks, Peter
Personally I installed this more for protection from water than filtering of particles so I haven't really investigated how fine the filter is. I'll have to look tomorrow though to see where it sits on the spectrum.
You made a nice video
Awesome as usual. Cheers. G
Good job
Thank you
Question i have a leaking fuel/water separator at the fitting and hose meeting point. Would that cause air into line and not allow my motor to crank over?
I think everyone that's spun a spanner has done the old "oh s$h1t!, i think I've done that up a bit too tight...., yep, I've split it!"
I double hose clamp every fuel hose if possible; thought I read somewhere that double clamping was the "industry standard" In fact, just recently noticed that the triple clamped fill hose on a boat was ever so slightly leaking......... ok they were a tad loose but I'll pull the hose off and use a bit of stag paste before summer.
My first boat came with a spin on water separating filter that didn't have a clear bowl. When I changed it, (to one with a clear bowl) it was 99% full of water!
Yes, if the barb is long enough, double clamping is a good way to go. It's amazing how much water the filters can trap, well worth having!
My filter is called QS 802893Q01 STD, it does not have a plastic bottom. Does it fill the same role?
Is it just to screw it off and empty it?
Hi dangar
Hope that you are well,charli also
I have a mercury m2 jetdrive and would like to flush it using a cleaning liquid and mini pump before putting a new quicksilver hi performance oil.
What do you recomend to flush it ?
Kerosene,diesel,petrol or maybe dexron 3 atf .
Pls advise
What's that bracket made of, metal, or some sort of plastic? Is it because of ethanol in fuel these days (at least here in the US), and separation can easily happen? Or do you have some other issues with fuel and water for boating?
RichE
The bracket on this one was aluminium. Good question about the water in fuel, I think there are a few reasons. One is that the fuel tanks are underground near a water way as we buy it from marinas. Another is that the marinas don't have the turn over that a busy petrol station will have so the fuel is older. Outboard tanks have breathers that are exposed to the rain and the bilges often have water in them where the fuel lines run. I think it is a combination of all these things that makes boats particularly bad.
Are there instances where mounting a fuel water separator too high can result in loss of prime with air in the system? I changed over from a sierra 18-7945 to the yamaha filter. The yamaha filter was twice as deep! Now I am having trouble with the primer ball getting empty of fuel and the motor starving itself. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
Where did you get that thread goop from? I looked everywhere for it. Ended up settling for Fuel resistant gasket maker. Got the hardening variety so it's also working as a thread locker. It works but I'm not sure it's ideal.
Hmmm, good question. I think I ordered it from an auto parts store.
Excellent and helpful video.Can I ask you,there is already separating fuel filter but I want to give one more outline for the small engine.Can it work by the same inline for the big outboards?(I can't create a new one inport for the small engine)thank you dangar marine💪🏻
Yep, you can have a single in and two outs from the one filter, particularly if it is just for your back-up motor.
Very good but I have trouble getting it primed!
You need to make sure the air can escape while priming, so sometimes for the initial priming I will take the end of the fuel line that connects to the outboard until the priming is finished. Either than for use a screwdriver to push the ball bearing in that closes the valve. Filling the filter with fuel first obviously helps too.
@@DangarMarine 👍🏼
what kind of connector do you need to run another line to a kicker motor from the same water separating filter?
Do the plugs have to be added? And if they are not what are the effects? I bought a boat and I've noticed the plugs are not added and I've been having the hardest time figuring why every primer bulb I use loses prime
Is this good for a 20hp fuel injection outboard?
Thanks for putting all this up. I have the same fuel filter and I would like to connect a second tank to it I also want to empty one tank first before starting on the second one. What would be the best way to set that up?
Thanks,Joe.
The easiest way to do that would be to use one of the standard outboard quick connect fittings at the tanks end and just swap the hose over once one tank is getting low. If you want them both connected permanently you are going to need to put shutoff valves on the inlet ports at the fuel filter.
Because of the positions of the tanks I will have to plumb them both in - do you think I be better to go from each tank to one of those 3 port selector valves and then into a port on the filter or each hose through its own valve and into seperate ports on the filter ?
Thanks again.
Joe
Thanks Stu. Please comment on Merc I/O fuel-water separator filters that don't have the clear bottom and drain valve. They look like an oil filter. Do you have to dump them out periodically to remove the water? I just replace them seasonally. Good enough?
Hey Bruce. Just replacing them seasonally is fine. The only exception would be if you got a load of water in the fuel tank from being left open in the rain or something.
Thanks for the excellent video. Question how often or when should you change the filter element?
Good question. I would be inclined to change it once a year, but we do quite a few hours each year. I think you could easily get away with every years if you have never had to drain water out of it and the boat is stored somewhere dry.
Check out our new filter separator, "you know when to change it" th-cam.com/channels/QUAFj-0qAhMnQbT1wIgV3g.html
Hi, great instruction video. When/how often do you replace the white filter section?
Ah, just saw you answered this in the comments section - once a year if no water in fuel issues. That being said, if there is water in the fuel, then do you have to change it immediately after draining?
I wouldn't change it immediately, no. You might want to flush it out with some methylated spirits though to makes sure it is clean again. I mostly change them each year because they start to corrode.
Curious:
Would it not have been a better mounting to place it inside that corner brace (same holes) thereby protecting it from any strikes and just not being in your way?
Regards, good vids.
Possibly, but it has never been knocked yet and it is easier to service there.
Thank you :)