Excellent video. I'm in the process of restoring a 1965 Ford 3000 diesel from the ground up and ran across your video while looking for a rebuild kit for my generator. One thing that I would like to mention is that the wire will be MUCH easier to solder to the bolt if you remove the bolt from the generator housing first. That housing is a huge heat sink and makes it much harder to get the bolt hot enough for the solder to flow freely. I would not be surprised if you don't find that wire comes loose at some point, as it looked very much like a cold solder joint, and it's probably just barely stuck. If you had a 150-200 watt soldering iron it would have been possible to make a good solder connection, but with that little pencil iron, I'm betting it is a cold joint. Another thing is to look for copper dust in the grooves between the brush pads on the armature. It most definitely can collect enough in those grooves to create a short between them if you have to remove too much copper to get a smooth surface. A quick blast with compressed air or even a paint brush should remove anything that would cause trouble. As for the loose bearing in the end cap, at some point the old one probably spun out and wore the depression it sits in a little. Some blue thread locker on the outside of the outer race will prevent the new one from doing the same. It needs to be a tighter fit. And finally, when removing the pulley, if you leave the nut threaded on a little when you are pounding on it with a hammer, it will help to protect the threads. Also, is there anything less expensive that glyptol to use for insulation? A quart is the smallest container I can find and it's almost $50 with shipping. I can buy a new generator for $59. Thanks for taking the time to make this very detailed and very well explained video. I've always wondered how to rebuild this one when the brushes wear out.
Excellent video, one suggestion, why not rewind your cloth white tape on a small spool that would fit through the windings . Might make it easier. Again excellent video. Thanks
Not familiar with any VW generators but make sure your voltage regulator is wired and working properly. You can also full field the generator by shorting the field and ground terminals to see if the generator itself it working. Dont do it for very long though as this will output a lot of volts and can damage other components and the generator itself because it makes it hot.
I'm working on an old chrysler generator thats type b. it has a field and an arm stud. are both of those studs supposed to be insulated from the case or is one grounded to the case?
Nice video ! Do u remember what regulator that is ? There are system type A and type B , I’m having that problem right now with one , think someone put the wrong type regulator on it !
I want to say these systems are type B. Seems like some of the earlier ones may have been type A. Also make sure you have the right voltage since they could be either 6v or 12v.
Why does it matter that you make note of which way is “up” on the field coil shoes? Aren’t they symmetrical? I’m currently rebuilding my own generator and I never did that. Hopefully it’s not terribly important!
They should be symmetrical but if they have a slightly different shape they may not set back into the housing properly. I had that issue with the starter and it rubbed on the armature. By keeping the shoes in the original location and direction you can avoid that issue and the headaches of trying to figure out what's wrong.
Excellent work. You are a pro with everything you do!😊
excellent....hopefully better lighting from above eventually...to see everything clear as heck
At Mack Truck we always silver-soldered all the wire terminations in the starters and generators.
Excellent video. I'm in the process of restoring a 1965 Ford 3000 diesel from the ground up and ran across your video while looking for a rebuild kit for my generator.
One thing that I would like to mention is that the wire will be MUCH easier to solder to the bolt if you remove the bolt from the generator housing first. That housing is a huge heat sink and makes it much harder to get the bolt hot enough for the solder to flow freely. I would not be surprised if you don't find that wire comes loose at some point, as it looked very much like a cold solder joint, and it's probably just barely stuck. If you had a 150-200 watt soldering iron it would have been possible to make a good solder connection, but with that little pencil iron, I'm betting it is a cold joint.
Another thing is to look for copper dust in the grooves between the brush pads on the armature. It most definitely can collect enough in those grooves to create a short between them if you have to remove too much copper to get a smooth surface. A quick blast with compressed air or even a paint brush should remove anything that would cause trouble.
As for the loose bearing in the end cap, at some point the old one probably spun out and wore the depression it sits in a little. Some blue thread locker on the outside of the outer race will prevent the new one from doing the same. It needs to be a tighter fit.
And finally, when removing the pulley, if you leave the nut threaded on a little when you are pounding on it with a hammer, it will help to protect the threads. Also, is there anything less expensive that glyptol to use for insulation? A quart is the smallest container I can find and it's almost $50 with shipping. I can buy a new generator for $59.
Thanks for taking the time to make this very detailed and very well explained video. I've always wondered how to rebuild this one when the brushes wear out.
Very informative video! Thanks.
Good job. I'll do it exactly like that. I have an Ford 4000. Thanks from Germany, Bavaria
Great job. That blue looks awesome
Excellent video, one suggestion, why not rewind your cloth white tape on a small spool that would fit through the windings . Might make it easier. Again excellent video. Thanks
Great Video I learned something thanks!!!!!
Those pulley are AllWAYS frozen to shaft and having the correct tools it’s not a problem
I am working on a 6 volt VW generator. It does spin when I polarize it but no matter what I do I can't get current out of it.
Not familiar with any VW generators but make sure your voltage regulator is wired and working properly. You can also full field the generator by shorting the field and ground terminals to see if the generator itself it working. Dont do it for very long though as this will output a lot of volts and can damage other components and the generator itself because it makes it hot.
@@chickenhousemechanic I took it and had it rebuilt. When I put it back on it works.
@@LaughingTerry glad to hear you got it working. Always like rebuilding the old ones vs replacing them.
When I put a test light on my field wire or ground wire I get nothing
@@fredricdolman3004Where have you put the other end of your test light?
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
I need a steering shaft seal kit complete for F901
Do you have a good source?????
I'm working on an old chrysler generator thats type b. it has a field and an arm stud. are both of those studs supposed to be insulated from the case or is one grounded to the case?
They should be both insulated. I believe a type B generator is internally grounded to the case.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thanks man!
Nice video ! Do u remember what regulator that is ? There are system type A and type B , I’m having that problem right now with one , think someone put the wrong type regulator on it !
I want to say these systems are type B. Seems like some of the earlier ones may have been type A. Also make sure you have the right voltage since they could be either 6v or 12v.
possibly the same generator for a 1964 Ford 223 straight 6?
Not sure, but good possibility.
Do you have the link to McMaster Carr for the wrap you used?
@tjtharp2432 this is the item number for the tape. 76525A752
Why does it matter that you make note of which way is “up” on the field coil shoes? Aren’t they symmetrical? I’m currently rebuilding my own generator and I never did that. Hopefully it’s not terribly important!
They should be symmetrical but if they have a slightly different shape they may not set back into the housing properly. I had that issue with the starter and it rubbed on the armature. By keeping the shoes in the original location and direction you can avoid that issue and the headaches of trying to figure out what's wrong.
Get a cheap wheel puller