On this style Toro self propelled mower before replacing the wheels check the wheel bolts are aligned with the drive gears. If not adjust them as shown here.
I replaced the wheels once due to this problem and the cheap plastic teeth wore out again quickly and I had the same problem. Upgraded to the wheels with the metal gear and new sprocket that you mentioned. Works much better but yeah there’s some cost.
I've had the grinding noise getting louder and louder.... today, no grinding noise. Hope it's not past the point of no return and I have to deal with the transmission part. My wheels do bow out so I'm pretty sure it's some sort of a wheel problem. I get to work on this tomorrow. thanks for the video.
This fix worked perfectly for my exact same model. Thanks for the video. Many other videos lead one to believe it’s just the plastic gear in the wheel that is worn out.
This is a terrific fix. I had watched all the videos that suggested using bushings or shims. I worried needlessly that using a crowbar would bend something else out of whack. This repair worked beautifully. I am saddened that this video is not higher up on the viewing list. It is actually hard to find even when you know it exists and are searching for it. Perhaps re-uploading it under a new title like "Toro lawnmower rear wheels won't turn", or something like that?
Had this issue with mine it was a result of worn bushings and bearings. When I would lift the rear wheels off the ground they would hang straight, lay it back down and they would tip in at the top. Bugger of a design!
Exactly. That is what I did. Once I saw the plate was toed in I simply counteracted with a nut. Never failed again. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
That is the way I diagnosed the problem. If it appears that the pinion/wheel gear are only engaging on the tip end of each then this may fix the problem. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
I fixed mine so it would not return. Still have mower with original transmission and axle pinion. Mower is about 15 years old. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
I have the same mower, replaced everything. New wheels with metal gear, new metal gears, new bearings, new transmission, belt and cable. Goes great forward but is hard to pull backwards. I've tested new ones and it's a night and day difference. It feels like my mower is binding somewhere when you try to go backwards. This is so frustrating! Ive replaced everything.....do you think alignment would cause it to bind up only going in reverse???
Is it the exact same model? The older model had a ratchet under the gear on the trans that had to ratchet or it would lock up when going backwards. I don't think that model had that.
Here is the video that shows how to shorten the axle-drive gear distance, when the cogs start to wear out and you don't want to spend any more money on an old lawnmower to buy new wheels and bushings! th-cam.com/video/tOeH5k2aCOs/w-d-xo.html
i dont think thats a design flaw, it got bent, or that back plate was manufactured off alignment. nice simple fix, i picked up a front drive model for $30....and to be honest...I think toro makes nice mowers....better than the mtd-craftsman's.....at least the decks seem nicer. anyways...nice job on that fix......id soak that area with grease or spray oil of your choice.
Of all the Personal Pace mowers I have repaired, I have never seen one with an alignment issue on the wheels. FYI those plates sit on a bushing. If the bushing is worn out, that would account for the misalignment. Using a pry bar doesn't fix the issue at all. If you have a gap issue, it's the bushing is worn out. By prying on it, all you are doing is pulling on the bushing and its just going to go back where it started.
It is a common problem on this model with RWD. The misalignment causes people to replace the wheels and the gear strips right out. This wasn't a problem on older personal pace mowers like maybe the ones your familiar with.
The bushing and bearing wore out because of the horizontal pressure applied to the rear of the mounting plate by the height adjustment lever. If you stabilize the mounting plate like I did then it will work with worn bushings because the axle will be held straight. My mower is about 15 years old and has all original parts except the drive belt and one set of rear wheels. I replaced the wheels one time because of outside tread not inside gear wear. If I had installed my nut spacer when mower was new nothing would have worn. Just my opinion. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
What a crap design, I have a 2010 20332 with plastic spur gears in the wheels too. That gold crap pop metal throughout the rear driveline/tranny & hangers is the flaw in this mower. Once it's bent & you bend it back it will just bend back since it weakens when bent, preplanned obsolescence right here.. Half the people have ruff yards are the ones like me with this constantly being an issue.. **Update, just backing up the wheel axle bolts with a 5/8 nut actually works. You can still adjust wheels & the nut stays between the adjuster plate & wheel mount.. So it sat for about 6 years & it's fine now after less than a dollar worth of nuts! Before it was just stripping out the plastic gears on rear wheels because they were toed in. **
Design was a built-in moneymaker. Keep replacing the wheels, gears and bushings and bearings. Bending plate out works but is not permanent. This is and no parts replaced just added a cheap part in the correct location. Yes a class action lawsuit makes sense. studio.th-cam.com/users/videoRVK_po7BRZs/edit
Worked perfectly. I had bought wheels previously and that didn't cure it. The crowbar fix did the trick
Thank you. Just bought one of these nearly new and the wheel was toed in. Got it for a steal so this fix makes me very happy.
I replaced the wheels once due to this problem and the cheap plastic teeth wore out again quickly and I had the same problem. Upgraded to the wheels with the metal gear and new sprocket that you mentioned. Works much better but yeah there’s some cost.
I've had the grinding noise getting louder and louder.... today, no grinding noise. Hope it's not past the point of no return and I have to deal with the transmission part. My wheels do bow out so I'm pretty sure it's some sort of a wheel problem. I get to work on this tomorrow. thanks for the video.
This fix worked perfectly for my exact same model. Thanks for the video. Many other videos lead one to believe it’s just the plastic gear in the wheel that is worn out.
This is a terrific fix. I had watched all the videos that suggested using bushings or shims. I worried needlessly that using a crowbar would bend something else out of whack. This repair worked beautifully. I am saddened that this video is not higher up on the viewing list. It is actually hard to find even when you know it exists and are searching for it. Perhaps re-uploading it under a new title like "Toro lawnmower rear wheels won't turn", or something like that?
Thanks glad you found it and it helped you. The more subscribers I have the more it moves up the list so please subscribe if you like the channel.
Had this issue with mine it was a result of worn bushings and bearings. When I would lift the rear wheels off the ground they would hang straight, lay it back down and they would tip in at the top. Bugger of a design!
Thank you.
Glad it helped you.
Great video, Do you have the link to the upgraded sprocket for a metal gear wheel. Tks
My toro guy said you can bolt wheel on without inner shield to see how teeth align. Then put shield back in after inspection
Exactly. That is what I did. Once I saw the plate was toed in I simply counteracted with a nut. Never failed again. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
That is the way I diagnosed the problem. If it appears that the pinion/wheel gear are only engaging on the tip end of each then this may fix the problem. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
I will try this yet before I buy a wheel. I think this is my problem. It looks to close to the frame & wont move when I hold it off the ground.
fantastic job of explanation. I have the same problem and will try the crow bar approach. Do not know how to repay you...
@@richardchorey5600 just like and subscribe. Glad it helped you.
The question is, did the fix last? An update would be great.
I sold the mower but it works to align the wheels. You may have to repeat the process if it occurs again over time.
I fixed mine so it would not return. Still have mower with original transmission and axle pinion. Mower is about 15 years old. Hope this helps. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
I have the same mower, replaced everything. New wheels with metal gear, new metal gears, new bearings, new transmission, belt and cable. Goes great forward but is hard to pull backwards.
I've tested new ones and it's a night and day difference. It feels like my mower is binding somewhere when you try to go backwards. This is so frustrating! Ive replaced everything.....do you think alignment would cause it to bind up only going in reverse???
Is it the exact same model? The older model had a ratchet under the gear on the trans that had to ratchet or it would lock up when going backwards. I don't think that model had that.
It's model #20332.
Looks exactly like the model you have....
I don't think it would be an alignment problem. Check the propell cable is not set to tight and it is releasing.
Cable is new and does release fine....
Here is the video that shows how to shorten the axle-drive gear distance, when the cogs start to wear out and you don't want to spend any more money on an old lawnmower to buy new wheels and bushings! th-cam.com/video/tOeH5k2aCOs/w-d-xo.html
i dont think thats a design flaw, it got bent, or that back plate was manufactured off alignment.
nice simple fix, i picked up a front drive model for $30....and to be honest...I think toro makes nice mowers....better than the mtd-craftsman's.....at least the decks seem nicer.
anyways...nice job on that fix......id soak that area with grease or spray oil of your choice.
Of all the Personal Pace mowers I have repaired, I have never seen one with an alignment issue on the wheels. FYI those plates sit on a bushing. If the bushing is worn out, that would account for the misalignment. Using a pry bar doesn't fix the issue at all. If you have a gap issue, it's the bushing is worn out. By prying on it, all you are doing is pulling on the bushing and its just going to go back where it started.
It is a common problem on this model with RWD. The misalignment causes people to replace the wheels and the gear strips right out. This wasn't a problem on older personal pace mowers like maybe the ones your familiar with.
Its not the bushing. It is an alignment issue caused by use and a crappy design.
The bushing and bearing wore out because of the horizontal pressure applied to the rear of the mounting plate by the height adjustment lever. If you stabilize the mounting plate like I did then it will work with worn bushings because the axle will be held straight. My mower is about 15 years old and has all original parts except the drive belt and one set of rear wheels. I replaced the wheels one time because of outside tread not inside gear wear. If I had installed my nut spacer when mower was new nothing would have worn. Just my opinion. th-cam.com/video/RVK_po7BRZs/w-d-xo.html
@@baconsledge Yes it is an alignment issue caused by the height adjustment lever.
What a crap design, I have a 2010 20332 with plastic spur gears in the wheels too. That gold crap pop metal throughout the rear driveline/tranny & hangers is the flaw in this mower. Once it's bent & you bend it back it will just bend back since it weakens when bent, preplanned obsolescence right here.. Half the people have ruff yards are the ones like me with this constantly being an issue..
**Update, just backing up the wheel axle bolts with a 5/8 nut actually works. You can still adjust wheels & the nut stays between the adjuster plate & wheel mount.. So it sat for about 6 years & it's fine now after less than a dollar worth of nuts! Before it was just stripping out the plastic gears on rear wheels because they were toed in. **
There should be a class action lawsuit against Toro’s crap design. Do not buy. Millions of these suffer from same defect.
Design was a built-in moneymaker. Keep replacing the wheels, gears and bushings and bearings. Bending plate out works but is not permanent. This is and no parts replaced just added a cheap part in the correct location. Yes a class action lawsuit makes sense. studio.th-cam.com/users/videoRVK_po7BRZs/edit