Gopi Kurse Enter your model number in our website's free repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting and repair help: www.RepairClinic.com/RepairHelp.
We unfortunately do not have a video for that model. We also do not have repair help for error codes. I would suggest looking online for a reputable blog or forum (there are a lot out there). Chances are other people have had the same problem and will be able to help you out.
well, today's my day to git 'er done. gonna take pictures of the wiring so I can put it back in place correctly... Edit: Success!!! Feels good (after 2 weeks of procrastinating), I must say. A few tips for the next guy: If the plastic secures aren't releasing just cut them off with dykes - new harness comes with new ones. I found the the tube for the pressure sensor switch to be badly pinched - been that way for years! So make sure on the reinstall that it isn't. And part of the old wiring harness went behind the water pump, so I rerouted it. In response to a comment below: you can buy the sensor separately, but my 14-year old machine needed the harness replaced and updated to accept the new connector on the new sensor. Whole job went pretty easy. Buy at a local supply house if you can - wiring harness sensor combo was $50 cheaper than parts direct.
Just as a heads up, I too was getting the dreaded F51 error code on my Cabrio washer. When I tipped the washer over to replace parts I found that the rotor mounting screw was quite loose. I decided to simply tighten it up before replacing all the parts. Worked like a charm. Washer now works good as new!
Thank you for this video! I had the F 51 code pop up, so I searched the internet for that code for my Cabrio washer. First recommendations say to check all the connections, unplug & re-plug a few times to work out any possible corrosion, etc. So I used your video to find the RPS. Not only were a lot of wires loose, the center screw that holds the rotor was completely loose, and I could turn it by hand. So I tightened everything back up, ensured all the connections were tight and wires in place, and Lo! My problem seems to be fixed for now. I also re-leveled the washer - we moved recently into an older house with uneven, sagging floors, and the corner where the washer sits has as much a 1/2" difference level from one side of the washer to the other. I suspect this not level issue is what cause everything to work loose. Anyway, thanks for the video, and if I need any more videos or parts, I will certainly look you up!!!
Thanks for the help video. Replaced the sensor with no problems; however now when it is in spin mode it is very loud and sounds like it spins faster than before.
Hello Repair Clinic, I have a Cabrio wtw6800 washer and UL code keeps coming on I replaced suspension rods but still having same problem, what do I replace next??
Awesome video. Question when put the cover back on tighten all washer won't spin. If I loosen it works fine. How much to tighten ? Looks like it gradually loosens and throws off the sensor. I wonder if my sensor was bad at all. I replaced anyways. It works fine but looks like cover will loosen again eventually. What a bad design.
Take the rotor back off and make sure it is seated properly and also make sure the new rotor sensor is snapped into the rotor correctly. You should be able to tighten the screws all the way.
Thanks for this video, it would have taken me longer to figure out with just the schematic! While it took me much longer than the ~8 minutes you did the repair! First time doing it, allow about 30-45 minutes. Thanks again, huge help for us do it yourself'ers
All you say is put the new shield on the stator! There were no rubber bumpers in my new shield. The old one had four so I put them in the new one after I realized it was real lose and moved around a lot without them. Your video shows that your new shield was installed with just 2 of them.
Before deciding to rpelace the sensor, open the top of the washer and disassemble it to the point where you can see between the tumbler and basin. There was a pair of underwear stuck in mine(the perforated holes are sharp on the outside and will tear clothing up) and it causes enough friction to cause the motor to do a fail safe stop. Doing this only takes about 30 minutes start to finish and is free. Remember to unplug your washer first. Good luck!
This could be a few different things. Your best bet is to head to the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you input your model number there you'll have access to model and part specific repair help. I hope this helps!
So I replaced the rps sensor back in July and it worked until the other day. Replaced it again and I still have the same problem. Control board issue now? How do I know?
The manufacturer has updated the system. It is not the motor that is changed out it is the plastic cover: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rotor-Position-Sensor/W10183157/1394136
We're sorry for the confusion! We do sell just the sensor as a separate part. This video is for people who need to replace the wire harness as well, which is why the video links to the sensor kit and not just the sensor.
I know there are similarities but is there a chance this same RPS replacement tutorial is available for the GWL11? Also, I have ordered the part and factory parts person seemed to imply the harness comes with the sensor...if just placing the sensor solves the problem is it necessary to replace the harness? Also, how do I differentially diagnose if the problem is with the motor controller board rather than the RPS?
I noticed after you removed the stator, there was no actuator or mode adjuster to switch from washing, to spin cycle. How does this model of machine switch cycles from washing to spin? Or does the entire drum move with the wash plate during the wash cycle?
The inner tub has a hub and gear. When the machine fills with water the inner tub raises with the water and disengages the tub. The agitator is then free to turn independently of the tub. When the water is drained from the tub the hub and gear will catch and the tub will turn with the agitator in spin.
Thanks for the response. Appreciate it. So that means the inner tub becomes buoyant when filled with water? Isn't the inner tub stainless steel, and becomes heavier when wet laundry once in use? Wow...that i never thought of. If there is a video or something you can post up to show how that works that would be neat.
J VON J Archie The lower section of the inner tub has a float ring that raises it when the tub is filled. We can’t really get a camera in there to show that in video. We do have an interesting video on how washers work though: How It Works: Top Load Washer
Because that's shat I want to do (sarcasm) thanks for the help. FYI your video was very helpful and easy to follow. Without it I wouldn't have even tried to fix it myself and for the tech to come out would've been a $135 call out. So you at least saved me that. Thanks
Sorry about that. We do not currently have error code help on our site and it's a big job to compile all that information because each model is slightly different. We hope to have error code support available soon though!
After removing the bolt in the center you may have to tap around the edge with a piece of wood and a hammer to get it loose. The magnets in the rotor also are pulling against you. Keep wiggling it from side to side and it should eventually come off.
Great video, thanks. My problem was a bit more specific...one of the wires from the clip which powers the drain pump has pulled out. Replaced pump after an "LD" error, but can't get it power due to the broken wire/clip. Is there any solution to replacing/repairing just the power connector for the drain pump rather than replacing this whole kit? Thanks.
It depends on your model. That sensor doesn't work with this model. On this model (WTW6200SW0) the sensor is only available with this kit. Enter your model number into the search bar on our website and it will display all available parts: www.RepairClinic.com?TLSID=1773
No 'real' error code, however as the machine goes into the rinse/spin cycle (12 mins left on regular wash cycle) it spins makes noise(tub hitting the sides) and then flashes a 'UL'. Then it keeps recycling through this cycle and cannot clear the 'UL' code ever after clothes are adjusted. I have done it manually and by unplugging but cannot get past this "UL' code at this time. I have replaced the shaft and bearings because I knew those were starting to go. Now I am thinking that I need buy this RPS kit and do that. Any thoughts? Paul
Machine stopped running and "f50" code flashed on panel. Looked up code said rps sensor which local repair shop confirmed code. Replaced rps sensor/wire harness. Same code pops up
This could be many different things, including the motor and control board. We recommend using Google to find more specific error code help. Search using your appliance's model name and number and the error code.
Since your goal was to replace the RPS sensor, why did you have to replace entire wire harness when its not needed. I know the RPS sensor could be purchased independently and without the entire kit which included the harness, so I am puzzled why you replaced entire harness. Your response will be appreciated.
Great Video on repair. You folks end us saving some hard earned dollars. Would this fix work for Maytag Washer MVWB750WQ1 (Error Code F51) and please recommend a best place to but the part.
this was a bit of a rip off.... this comes up #2 on Google to watch this video and buy the part, the part was 78 dollars. You don't need the whole wiring harness you just need the sensor which is like 22 dollars... Watch the video but just start at the bottom and replace the sensor. I feel taken by the Repair Clinic! I'll never do this again I'll do more research@
Gopi Kurse Enter your model number in our website's free repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting and repair help: www.RepairClinic.com/RepairHelp.
I would suggest doing a Google search for "Cabrio washer SD error code". Error code troubleshooting is easily accessible on the web.
I found your video to be right on and easy to do thanks. I still have a problem! is there a reset or something else I need to do?
We unfortunately do not have a video for that model. We also do not have repair help for error codes. I would suggest looking online for a reputable blog or forum (there are a lot out there). Chances are other people have had the same problem and will be able to help you out.
well, today's my day to git 'er done. gonna take pictures of the wiring so I can put it back in place correctly...
Edit: Success!!! Feels good (after 2 weeks of procrastinating), I must say. A few tips for the next guy: If the plastic secures aren't releasing just cut them off with dykes - new harness comes with new ones. I found the the tube for the pressure sensor switch to be badly pinched - been that way for years! So make sure on the reinstall that it isn't. And part of the old wiring harness went behind the water pump, so I rerouted it.
In response to a comment below: you can buy the sensor separately, but my 14-year old machine needed the harness replaced and updated to accept the new connector on the new sensor. Whole job went pretty easy. Buy at a local supply house if you can - wiring harness sensor combo was $50 cheaper than parts direct.
Just as a heads up, I too was getting the dreaded F51 error code on my Cabrio washer. When I tipped the washer over to replace parts I found that the rotor mounting screw was quite loose. I decided to simply tighten it up before replacing all the parts. Worked like a charm. Washer now works good as new!
I'm glad it was!
No problem!
Thank you for this video! I had the F 51 code pop up, so I searched the internet for that code for my Cabrio washer. First recommendations say to check all the connections, unplug & re-plug a few times to work out any possible corrosion, etc. So I used your video to find the RPS. Not only were a lot of wires loose, the center screw that holds the rotor was completely loose, and I could turn it by hand. So I tightened everything back up, ensured all the connections were tight and wires in place, and Lo! My problem seems to be fixed for now. I also re-leveled the washer - we moved recently into an older house with uneven, sagging floors, and the corner where the washer sits has as much a 1/2" difference level from one side of the washer to the other. I suspect this not level issue is what cause everything to work loose. Anyway, thanks for the video, and if I need any more videos or parts, I will certainly look you up!!!
That's great! We're happy we could help.
nice and easy!!!
Recirculation pump? What is that for. First time hearing about that.
Great! Glad to help.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for your video, it was most helpfulf
Thanks for the help video. Replaced the sensor with no problems; however now when it is in spin mode it is very loud and sounds like it spins faster than before.
+Joseph Overton Noise issues are likely due to a bad bearing or transmission issue.
Hi repairclinic guys. What i need ro do to fix a (td) error in my samsung frontload washer help me please..
Hello Repair Clinic, I have a Cabrio wtw6800 washer and UL code keeps coming on I replaced suspension rods but still having same problem, what do I replace next??
Is the washer shaking?
I'VE REPLACED MY RODS AND STILL THE UL CODE. WHAT DID YOU EVER DO TO REPAIR THE SAME SYMPTOM?
Awesome video. Question when put the cover back on tighten all washer won't spin. If I loosen it works fine. How much to tighten ? Looks like it gradually loosens and throws off the sensor. I wonder if my sensor was bad at all. I replaced anyways. It works fine but looks like cover will loosen again eventually. What a bad design.
Take the rotor back off and make sure it is seated properly and also make sure the new rotor sensor is snapped into the rotor correctly. You should be able to tighten the screws all the way.
Just watched the video and ordered the part. Can't wait to try my hand at installing it. Thanks for the great video!
THIS is BY Far the BEST repair video I have ever seen! GREAT JOB!
John Michaels Well thanks! We appreciate it.
Thanks for this video, it would have taken me longer to figure out with just the schematic! While it took me much longer than the ~8 minutes you did the repair! First time doing it, allow about 30-45 minutes.
Thanks again, huge help for us do it yourself'ers
Mitch Saba You're welcome!
All you say is put the new shield on the stator! There were no rubber bumpers in my new shield. The old one had four so I put them in the new one after I realized it was real lose and moved around a lot without them. Your video shows that your new shield was installed with just 2 of them.
Before deciding to rpelace the sensor, open the top of the washer and disassemble it to the point where you can see between the tumbler and basin. There was a pair of underwear stuck in mine(the perforated holes are sharp on the outside and will tear clothing up) and it causes enough friction to cause the motor to do a fail safe stop. Doing this only takes about 30 minutes start to finish and is free. Remember to unplug your washer first.
Good luck!
No, you want part #W10178988. If you enter your model number on our site, this is the part that matches up with your washer.
This could be a few different things. Your best bet is to head to the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you input your model number there you'll have access to model and part specific repair help. I hope this helps!
So I replaced the rps sensor back in July and it worked until the other day. Replaced it again and I still have the same problem. Control board issue now? How do I know?
What problem are you experiencing?
Can't get the rotor off
Why would you want to discard the old wiring loom to the motor control, and motor assembly, if you’re just replacing the rotor position sensor????
The manufacturer has updated the system. It is not the motor that is changed out it is the plastic cover: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rotor-Position-Sensor/W10183157/1394136
We're sorry for the confusion! We do sell just the sensor as a separate part. This video is for people who need to replace the wire harness as well, which is why the video links to the sensor kit and not just the sensor.
I know there are similarities but is there a chance this same RPS replacement tutorial is available for the GWL11?
Also, I have ordered the part and factory parts person seemed to imply the harness comes with the sensor...if just placing the sensor solves the problem is it necessary to replace the harness?
Also, how do I differentially diagnose if the problem is with the motor controller board rather than the RPS?
We don't have any tutorials on that model, but someone else may. Try doing a Google search for it.
I noticed after you removed the stator, there was no actuator or mode adjuster to switch from washing, to spin cycle. How does this model of machine switch cycles from washing to spin? Or does the entire drum move with the wash plate during the wash cycle?
The inner tub has a hub and gear. When the machine fills with water the inner tub raises with the water and disengages the tub. The agitator is then free to turn independently of the tub. When the water is drained from the tub the hub and gear will catch and the tub will turn with the agitator in spin.
Thanks for the response. Appreciate it. So that means the inner tub becomes buoyant when filled with water? Isn't the inner tub stainless steel, and becomes heavier when wet laundry once in use? Wow...that i never thought of. If there is a video or something you can post up to show how that works that would be neat.
J VON J Archie The lower section of the inner tub has a float ring that raises it when the tub is filled. We can’t really get a camera in there to show that in video. We do have an interesting video on how washers work though: How It Works: Top Load Washer
thanks for the response, appreciate it.
Because that's shat I want to do (sarcasm) thanks for the help. FYI your video was very helpful and easy to follow. Without it I wouldn't have even tried to fix it myself and for the tech to come out would've been a $135 call out. So you at least saved me that. Thanks
Sorry about that. We do not currently have error code help on our site and it's a big job to compile all that information because each model is slightly different. We hope to have error code support available soon though!
I have a Maytag washer in the fault code is calling for a basket speed sensor is that the same thing as position sensor are they Different
how do you get the rotor off? I couldn't budge it!
After removing the bolt in the center you may have to tap around the edge with a piece of wood and a hammer to get it loose. The magnets in the rotor also are pulling against you. Keep wiggling it from side to side and it should eventually come off.
Great video, thanks. My problem was a bit more specific...one of the wires from the clip which powers the drain pump has pulled out. Replaced pump after an "LD" error, but can't get it power due to the broken wire/clip. Is there any solution to replacing/repairing just the power connector for the drain pump rather than replacing this whole kit? Thanks.
hi do I need the whole Kit? or can I just replace the sensor? Sensor
PART NUMBER: W10137685
Substitution: W10178988
It depends on your model. That sensor doesn't work with this model. On this model (WTW6200SW0) the sensor is only available with this kit. Enter your model number into the search bar on our website and it will display all available parts: www.RepairClinic.com?TLSID=1773
Will replacing the rotor position sensor fix the 'F 51' error on my Cabrio washer?
It definitely could. There could also be a problem with the control board though.
what is the part # for just the sensor and not the whole kit??
No 'real' error code, however as the machine goes into the rinse/spin cycle (12 mins left on regular wash cycle) it spins makes noise(tub hitting the sides) and then flashes a 'UL'. Then it keeps recycling through this cycle and cannot clear the 'UL' code ever after clothes are adjusted. I have done it manually and by unplugging but cannot get past this "UL' code at this time. I have replaced the shaft and bearings because I knew those were starting to go. Now I am thinking that I need buy this RPS kit and do that. Any thoughts? Paul
All I had to do was replace the suspension bearings. It was a kit with the metal rods and plastic bearings which support the drum. It was super easy.
Machine stopped running and "f50" code flashed on panel. Looked up code said rps sensor which local repair shop confirmed code. Replaced rps sensor/wire harness. Same code pops up
This could be many different things, including the motor and control board. We recommend using Google to find more specific error code help. Search using your appliance's model name and number and the error code.
Since your goal was to replace the RPS sensor, why did you have to replace entire wire harness when its not needed. I know the RPS sensor could be purchased independently and without the entire kit which included the harness, so I am puzzled why you replaced entire harness. Your response will be appreciated.
Sam Rafeedie I am wonder the same as well. Why replace the whole harness and wire.
My guess is that it is because they changed the connector on the sensor so the old harness does not connect to the sensor anymore.
I had the F-51 code pop up and after a few days the machine started working again but it is making a very loud noise when fast spinning.
Daray Pringle F51 is typically an RPS (rotor position sensor) issue. If the problem continues we would replace the sensor.
Great Video on repair. You folks end us saving some hard earned dollars. Would this fix work for Maytag Washer MVWB750WQ1 (Error Code F51) and please recommend a best place to but the part.
Upon further research it appears the sensor is only sold with this kit. We're sorry for the confusion!
i have whirlpool cabrio - starts for ~10 ses then stops. is it rotor position sensor?
Unfortunately it appears we spoke incorrectly when we said the sensor is sold separately. The sensor is only sold with this kit.
Please let us know how your repair goes!
I hope it's an easy repair for you! Let us know how it goes.
is there anything I need to do after replacing the rps? I'll be getting the rps soon this week since I ordered from your site. I'm pretty newb at this
It depends on if there is anything else wrong with the washer.
***** hello again, after fixing my washing machine. I had HC code at the end of testing on clothes. Is this normal?
this was a bit of a rip off.... this comes up #2 on Google to watch this video and buy the part, the part was 78 dollars. You don't need the whole wiring harness you just need the sensor which is like 22 dollars... Watch the video but just start at the bottom and replace the sensor. I feel taken by the Repair Clinic! I'll never do this again I'll do more research@
I hate this washing machine. I have never worked on one as much as the cabrio line. Stop making these you are destroying your reputation.
Don't even repair that... it's not worth it and avoid the brands affiliated with them....
Sometimes the Allen head bolt holding the rotor on is just loose. Not a bad sensor at all, actually sensor is saving you.