Just one point. Put the beams on the inside of the props BEFORE you crank them up and start the demolition. You will not be able to weave those beams between those props if you try to do it later. Ask me how I know.
Take it you tried to bend around the props.lol? Two ways we could of one as you say lay it on the ground before you demolish or prop the wall. Which is what we did. Or we have took out the brickwork and slide it in . Both a pain in the arse.lol thx
This is some good stuff but I was wondering when installing the brickwork from the new beam up to the existing brick work, how do you ensure the gap is zero? Is there any slight settlement? Causing cracks in the wall?
Hi Abdul when bricking it back up use pieces of roof slate to wedge in to the mortar joint. Check the slate size first . Then point the mortar in the joint then hammer your slate in. Making sure not tooooo much hammer to disturb the brickwork above. We slate ever 12" then fill the rest with mortar. Leave to dry before removing your props. Hope this helps. Karl
@@woowididit be carful that you never over tighten the across props I have heard of them pinging of the wall. Stand to the side of them when you tighten them up. Also if your on a wooden floor put extra timber across to take the weight. Good luck fella
OK yes. People forget to have the steel below on the ground d before any props are placed in due to not being able to put the steel in position. Unless you have lots of room to slide it in afterwards that's cool. But never the way. So put the steel in position on the floor first then start putting your acro/strongboys in to hold the wall up
For the people doing there own works. DIY please contact a structural engineer to get all the info for doing the job. So many people just do it then plaster over it. Then when they come to sell the house they have big problems showing what has been done. Sometimes asked to take of the plasterworks. Last thing you want to do. Take lots of pictures with tape measure out showing what's been done . Just in case. Also pictures of concrete pad stones. Do not over tighten the acro props as I have heard they can ping off so when tightening then up always stand at the side of them. Good luck. Stand back and think of what's to do. Don't rush it. Karl
Good advice on propping & padstones, but loadbearing steels on Thermalite one side and chopped off bricks on the other, with no attached piers, is not best practice.
@@thespecialist7 - Mmm, you have more faith in BCOs than I do! And a legal case about 20 yrs ago established that liability for failures in design remain with the builder/architect/engineer if anything goes wrong, not with the BCO. Having investigated building defects for many years, I’ve seen the same old ones coming up again & again, which should have been picked up by BCOs but weren’t. And since the advent of approved inspectors, if anything things have got worse. My neighbour had an extension built and the inspector didn’t call once during construction.
Doublethink you do seem to know your stuff. We always take the advice from building inspectors. It amazed me from jobs in the past how things held up . People not putting the right supports in. Yes I agree.
@@thespecialist7 - Well yes, it is amazing how long unsafe structures can stand. I once went to a huge rubble stone barn where both the front & rear walls were leaning forwards, well beyond their centres of gravity, with a v.heavy king post, stone slate roof above & no crosswalls, yet somehow it was still standing. But doesn’t mean to say it won’t suddenly fail, as I told the owner (& to not go anywhere near it!).
Both BCO and designer (if any) will probably have clauses indemnifying them in the event of mishaps or eventual failures of the structure? Who loses in the end?
If you installing a new beam to be hidden within the first floor zone, how do the existing joists get supported because they won't they be too short to reach the beam (if previously on joist hangers)?
I think this was 2 lintels bolted together. Size 8"x 4.5". Remember always get structural calculations to do any works. As this will cause a problem if ever you sell your house. You will have to take the plaster of the walls to show the steel and padstones. Use building regulations to do the job.
Can you keep the remaining old walls flush with the new, extended walls (the breeze block ones), or do you need to build some columns to support the RSJ beam, or is imbedding the steel beam into the existing brickwork (left/right walls) enough? Asking, because I'm wanting to have something similar done, but I want to have the new walls be flush with the outside walls.
Getting ready for a job much larger than this. 4 story building had the columns by the basement door fail and need to replace them. This video I will show them as a general overview of thier upcoming. Thanks good job.
Every task of Masonry alterations is different and should be planned in advance and carried out upon its own merit with a variety of temporary support equipment most suitable. Please read our “2019 masonry wall propping guide” for further information at; www.brickbrace.com
After watching your clip,Im wondering who did the calculations for the steel RSJ ?the reason I ask is that all doesnt look right to me, if this steel is holding up the right angle of the building?apart from that everything looks fine,RAMS all in place I hope.
Done 100s of these knock throughs with structural calculations and this Looks more than adequate. I'm sure this bloke who certainly seems to know what he's doing here isn't cutting any corners.
RAMs all in place I hope...sounds like you're another textbook reading site inspector so something along those lines..pulling the lads on things you havnt got a clue about An stopping them working...do me a favour, go put the kettle on you fucking sausage
I don't think building control was involved with that build,concrete blocks as padstones and no 150mm bearing each side of steel?? Should be 225mm concrete lintel + bearing of 150mm each side or steel spreader plate along with structural engineers cals to make sure the right steels are going in!
Yet another video on TH-cam where Strongboy’s are being misused. A Strongboy was designed to be used from one side of the wall. The props and needles method would of given the correct fitting space without the need to remove the wall below and without the steels being in the final position. A Strongboy is only for temporary support and not for overnight support when the builder is not there to check, further support should be added to reduce the risk of collapse when not worked upon. The task should never of been left half finished like that, shame on you for teaching your viewers bad habits! The main cause of collapse during masonry alterations is overloading due to removing Strongboy’s further from the wall to either avoid internal 1st floor wall damage or where attempting to gain more fitting work space as over extending greatly affects the capacity. - The Maximum Safe Working Loads (S.W.L) - An Acrow prop, 3,400Kg. - An Acrow prop used within the props and needles method, 1,700Kg. - When fitted with a Strongboy or any other similar designed product the Acrow props safe working load is severely reduced by at least 90%, from 3,400kg down to the maximum 340kg and can even reduce down to 0kg of which depends on the size & the working height of the Acrow prop, how plumb, how tightly fitted and how far the Acrow prop is positioned from the centre of the wall. - It’s urban myth that the Strongboy is suitable for every task, with the instructions changed by enforcement of the H.S.E in November 2015 and now read; “Before using a Strongboy you should identify that it is a suitable method to carry out the intended works”. To carry out a task safely, read our “2019 masonry wall propping guide” at; www.brickbrace.com
Sorry groover was having a bad day. Dude I build to arcitect drawings and structual enginnerrs drawings. It was a while ago but I think the ceiling on the other side was alot lower. This extension was a vaulted ceiling. You sound like a sound lad again sorry to be funny. I get a lot of Muppets talking crap on some videos. Peace
mark collins your full of shit. building inspectors are always involved which tell you that your a muppet. go away and anoy someone else you need to do your homework and stop looking at comics
Straight to the point and no waffling ! Subscribed
Great work fellas. Really nice and straightforward explanation. Looks a great job and nice to see a good amount of acros.
Just one point. Put the beams on the inside of the props BEFORE you crank them up and start the demolition. You will not be able to weave those beams between those props if you try to do it later.
Ask me how I know.
Take it you tried to bend around the props.lol?
Two ways we could of one as you say lay it on the ground before you demolish or prop the wall. Which is what we did. Or we have took out the brickwork and slide it in . Both a pain in the arse.lol thx
This is some good stuff but I was wondering when installing the brickwork from the new beam up to the existing brick work, how do you ensure the gap is zero? Is there any slight settlement? Causing cracks in the wall?
Hi Abdul when bricking it back up use pieces of roof slate to wedge in to the mortar joint.
Check the slate size first . Then point the mortar in the joint then hammer your slate in.
Making sure not tooooo much hammer to disturb the brickwork above.
We slate ever 12" then fill the rest with mortar.
Leave to dry before removing your props.
Hope this helps.
Karl
@@thespecialist7 Thanks for the swift reply I will definitely subscribe
@@woowididit be carful that you never over tighten the across props I have heard of them pinging of the wall.
Stand to the side of them when you tighten them up.
Also if your on a wooden floor put extra timber across to take the weight.
Good luck fella
Showing how beam was installed around acros would be insightful for ppl doing diy
OK yes. People forget to have the steel below on the ground d before any props are placed in due to not being able to put the steel in position.
Unless you have lots of room to slide it in afterwards that's cool. But never the way.
So put the steel in position on the floor first then start putting your acro/strongboys in to hold the wall up
For the people doing there own works. DIY please contact a structural engineer to get all the info for doing the job.
So many people just do it then plaster over it.
Then when they come to sell the house they have big problems showing what has been done. Sometimes asked to take of the plasterworks.
Last thing you want to do.
Take lots of pictures with tape measure out showing what's been done . Just in case.
Also pictures of concrete pad stones.
Do not over tighten the acro props as I have heard they can ping off so when tightening then up always stand at the side of them. Good luck.
Stand back and think of what's to do. Don't rush it.
Karl
Classic move the radiator after you take the wall down 🙈
Done this a few times over the years far and wide .
Mild steel strong in compression and strong in tension .
Good job lads looks really pro and well supported, definitely no horses were tied up beside this good job 👍
What do I do if I forget to put the steel in and then take the stongboys out? Please help
Maybe cry. Don't get your question. Are you saying that there is not steel lintels in the opening you have made?
Run!!!
Good advice on propping & padstones, but loadbearing steels on Thermalite one side and chopped off bricks on the other, with no attached piers, is not best practice.
All works gets passed by a building control officer. Think they are the people to say if its right or wrong.
Thanks for your thoughts tho.
@@thespecialist7 - Mmm, you have more faith in BCOs than I do! And a legal case about 20 yrs ago established that liability for failures in design remain with the builder/architect/engineer if anything goes wrong, not with the BCO.
Having investigated building defects for many years, I’ve seen the same old ones coming up again & again, which should have been picked up by BCOs but weren’t. And since the advent of approved inspectors, if anything things have got worse. My neighbour had an extension built and the inspector didn’t call once during construction.
Doublethink you do seem to know your stuff. We always take the advice from building inspectors. It amazed me from jobs in the past how things held up . People not putting the right supports in. Yes I agree.
@@thespecialist7 - Well yes, it is amazing how long unsafe structures can stand. I once went to a huge rubble stone barn where both the front & rear walls were leaning forwards, well beyond their centres of gravity, with a v.heavy king post, stone slate roof above & no crosswalls, yet somehow it was still standing. But doesn’t mean to say it won’t suddenly fail, as I told the owner (& to not go anywhere near it!).
Both BCO and designer (if any) will probably have clauses indemnifying them in the event of mishaps or eventual failures of the structure? Who loses in the end?
Thnks for the info. I have a 2225mm cavity what size do the beams need to be? It looks you used two beams side by side - is that the case? thanks
In U.K. it’s a build regulatory demand that you use a structural engineer calculate the beam loading.
If you installing a new beam to be hidden within the first floor zone, how do the existing joists get supported because they won't they be too short to reach the beam (if previously on joist hangers)?
How much wouod something like this cost?
Serve your time u might find out
roughly how much the total cost for job like that inc building materials?
uik I ::) I ::) Kim juju?
I i i i k k ikeii
Juju Kimi ikki ::kid min
What size of rsj
I think this was 2 lintels bolted together. Size 8"x 4.5".
Remember always get structural calculations to do any works.
As this will cause a problem if ever you sell your house.
You will have to take the plaster of the walls to show the steel and padstones.
Use building regulations to do the job.
might be a good way to do it
Can you keep the remaining old walls flush with the new, extended walls (the breeze block ones), or do you need to build some columns to support the RSJ beam, or is imbedding the steel beam into the existing brickwork (left/right walls) enough?
Asking, because I'm wanting to have something similar done, but I want to have the new walls be flush with the outside walls.
Hi Rhuari. Did you find an answer to this? I’m in a similar boat
How do you move a 670kg steel round the side of my house please ?
Christopher Bingham
mate with a few lads or you can hire a machine lift.
thespecialist7 I have no friends 😢. Might use beer barrels now cheers x
That why they have two channel beams.
Getting ready for a job much larger than this. 4 story building had the columns by the basement door fail and need to replace them. This video I will show them as a general overview of thier upcoming. Thanks good job.
Every task of Masonry alterations is different and should be planned in advance and carried out upon its own merit with a variety of temporary support equipment most suitable.
Please read our “2019 masonry wall propping guide” for further information at; www.brickbrace.com
Hi there, how far apart do you have to bolt the beams together?
where is bracing to satisfy minimum lateral stability rules ?
would this work with a supporting hd box lintel? over a 2700 opening? cheers
After watching your clip,Im wondering who did the calculations for the steel RSJ ?the reason I ask is that all doesnt look right to me, if this steel is holding up the right angle of the building?apart from that everything looks fine,RAMS all in place I hope.
Done 100s of these knock throughs with structural calculations and this Looks more than adequate. I'm sure this bloke who certainly seems to know what he's doing here isn't cutting any corners.
RAMs all in place I hope...sounds like you're another textbook reading site inspector so something along those lines..pulling the lads on things you havnt got a clue about An stopping them working...do me a favour, go put the kettle on you fucking sausage
hii I'm megha I want to solution for my home wall it is breaking from the below side how to solve this problem
Why didn’t you use a cantic? Much easier.
Due to arcitects and structual enginnerrs drawings. We build what they design. Thx tho
@@thespecialist7 understood. Cheers 👍
Nice but i recommend that Rsj's should be painted with red oxide BEFORE installation ,:)
Only if they are subject to getting wet
pad stones concrete blocks wtf? use 9 inch lintels cut to size min 200 mm
I don't think building control was involved with that build,concrete blocks as padstones and no 150mm bearing each side of steel??
Should be 225mm concrete lintel + bearing of 150mm each side or steel spreader plate along with structural engineers cals to make sure the right steels are going in!
Solid concrete padstone (blocks)they look like to me. Just the way he said it.
Also, steels only need to sit on 100mm, not 150.
@@elliottmholt pretty sure it's 150mm minimum.
Nice work, brother
all that weight on thermalite block is not a good idea on the one side
Nice video
Yet another video on TH-cam where Strongboy’s are being misused. A Strongboy was designed to be used from one side of the wall. The props and needles method would of given the correct fitting space without the need to remove the wall below and without the steels being in the final position.
A Strongboy is only for temporary support and not for overnight support when the builder is not there to check, further support should be added to reduce the risk of collapse when not worked upon. The task should never of been left half finished like that, shame on you for teaching your viewers bad habits!
The main cause of collapse during masonry alterations is overloading due to removing Strongboy’s further from the wall to either avoid internal 1st floor wall damage or where attempting to gain more fitting work space as over extending greatly affects the capacity.
-
The Maximum Safe Working Loads
(S.W.L)
-
An Acrow prop, 3,400Kg.
-
An Acrow prop used within the props and needles method, 1,700Kg.
-
When fitted with a Strongboy or any other similar designed product the Acrow props safe working load is severely reduced by at least 90%, from 3,400kg down to the maximum 340kg and can even reduce down to 0kg of which depends on the size & the working height of the Acrow prop, how plumb, how tightly fitted and how far the Acrow prop is positioned from the centre of the wall.
-
It’s urban myth that the Strongboy is suitable for every task, with the instructions changed by enforcement of the H.S.E in November 2015 and now read; “Before using a Strongboy you should identify that it is a suitable method to carry out the intended works”.
To carry out a task safely, read our “2019 masonry wall propping guide” at;
www.brickbrace.com
I agree with this comment.
Nice I’m of to smash my wall down
muy buen video me sirvio mucho, saludos desde colombia.
Steel isn't primed, tut
thanks
I've never seen steel so low in all my life.
Why how old are you 10. Don't get what your saying sunshine.
Oncewasdonka. Hmmmm ok
@@thespecialist7 I wasn't trying to be smart. It just seems very low. Didn't you want to get it higher.
Sorry groover was having a bad day.
Dude I build to arcitect drawings and structual enginnerrs drawings.
It was a while ago but I think the ceiling on the other side was alot lower. This extension was a vaulted ceiling.
You sound like a sound lad again sorry to be funny.
I get a lot of Muppets talking crap on some videos.
Peace
mark collins your full of shit.
building inspectors are always involved which tell you that your a muppet.
go away and anoy someone else
you need to do your homework and stop looking at comics
Strong Gender neurals
You may go to WoodPrix website if you'd like to make it yourself guys.