Bona - Roller Application Method
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2018
- Learn how to apply Bona Finishes and Sealers to a hardwood floor using the roller application method.
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Thank you for providing a clear and concise explanation of your professional methodology.
Hi Patrick - Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making the video!
Hi Rod - You're very welcome - Hope it helped you! The Roller method is vital to know in today's world of multi-directional floors and intricate parquet patterns (where a brush and or a t-bar would probably leave streaks). While other applicators pull through the finish, the roller lays in straight down, letting you apply in any direction across the floor. Please let us know if there's anything else you'd like to see in regard to wood flooring and the proper application of Bona products. Take care!
Looks nice. I'm from Holland. We always work with finish out of the bucket. The rest the same like your demo.
Thanks Gerlof! We'd also like to get some video up on how to use the Roller out of a bucket/box; especially how you do it and not leave any lines where the edges start to set up. Would be very interesting to share!
Just redid my horribly turned burnt orange colored kitchen floors using bins classic seal and Nina traffic HD commercial satin. So easy to use. Looks great! Be sure you do a few dry runs on your exit path to ensure you aren’t going to trap yourself in. If you have a other person help you by doing the cut ins great, or at least hold the pole and pad. Be sure to have some plastic or he’s y cardboard you can use to put the pad down on when your rolling and Vice versa. Be sure to follow the advice of the video. The product can be hard to see so I put tape every 4 ft along my baseboards. This gave me a marker to stop rolling at so I always knew where my next line would be. Floor looks great and no sitting odors like poly. The sealer had some odor but nowhere near what poly is like. It dissipated within a few hours. Downside is now I need to update my cabinets and countertops to keep up with the floor.
Hello What - Sounds like your project went well, and we're happy to see this video helped. You also made some good points as far as additional "watch-outs", tips, etc. - so Thanks for that! And, yes, once you have beautiful hardwood floors once again, it can highlight the need to update your other home decor items. Good luck!
I did classic seal with hd satin. but i don't like how yellow classic seal looks.
good instructor
Thanks 95kroses - We'll pass along your appreciation!
Hi! This is a great video! For a red oak foyer floor and stair treads that have been refinished (sanded down to raw wood, wood conditioned then stained with Varathane Gel Stain), do I need to sand or use a sealer before the Bona Traffic HD Satin? I thought the Bona Traffic HD was all I needed to finish/protect the floors but now I'm thinking that's not the case? Trying to figure the best plan to get everything protected in as few coats as possible so we can walk on it as quickly as possible because we only have one staircase to our 2nd story bedrooms (kiddos will need access). Thanks for your help!
Hi Krista - Too many variables to answer this all in a comment; and potential adhesion compatibility issues with Gel stains. Not sure what Varathane's directions say, nor if their stain is considered a stain/sealer like Bona Drifast Stain is - then all you'd need is the Traffic HD, as you state above. We'd recommend you call Varathane to find out about the compatibility when using on a floor with waterborne finishes; then maybe call our Tech Services team at (800) 872-5515, if you still have questions after speaking with the Stain folks. Might work, or might not, but we don't test their products with ours, so not sure which way to lead you here.
Thankyou very much
Most welcome, Kenny! Glad you found it useful!
Planning on using Bona NordicSeal for the treads on a prefab timberframe staircase- any suggestions for coating multiple sides at once? I want to have as clean a transition as possible between the top face and front edges of the treads, and coating them at the same time seems the best way to achieve this. My main concerns are drips, visible lines on the corners, and having sufficient coverage on the front edge (ie nosing) to match the hue of the top face (ie tread). My plan is to apply using a 6" roller.
Hi Chris - As you mentioned, it's tough to apply low viscosity products to opposing surfaces (one horizontal one vertical) at the same time. Instead of a 6" roller (unless it's 1/8" nap or less), you might want to try a 6" foam brush and apply several really thin coats. With a timberframe set-up and being able to see all sides of the tread, I'd probably do the bottom and back first, then clean up any drips/runs off the top/front (if you still get some forming underneath); and then complete the top and front surfaces last. Doing the bottom/back first will give you some practice on how thin of an application you need, in order to not get runs/drips; and how many coats needed to get the color that you're after. Another option might be to spray the NordicSeal on using an HVLP sprayer set-up, as we do know some cabinetmakers along with some floor craftsmen who use this type of application once in awhile for difficult situations like these stair treads. Hope that helps!
Thanks for all the instruction for using your products! We have sanded our oak flooring our master bedroom with closets. I have purchased your Classic Seal and Mega One. My retailer advised sanding the whole floor after applying the sealer, but after watching several of your training videos I'm a little confused. Do I need to sand between applying the sealer and the Mega One?
Hi @user-ed5nd4in7h - You don't need to abrade for adhesion unless the previous coat has been down for more than 48 hours (then just hit it with a Bona Conditioning Pad, tack and coat); but if you need to abrade for smoothness because of grain raise and or debris, etc. in the coat, then you might use 2-3 Bona Diamonds (180 or 240 grit) on the Conditioning Pad to smooth out the floor prior to applying your finish coats. Good luck!
Thank you so much for this awesome video. Refinishing floors in 3-4 days and am certainly set with Bona Traffic HD - quick question: Is it better to use foam roller of t-bar application method with your water-based poly? It certainly looks like I would be better off using the roller.
Hi Ado - The roller application tends to put down a heavier coat and can be used to apply across the direction of the boards as well; while the t-bar should always be used only in the same direction as the boards run (otherwise, will leave streaks). Both are good methods, but we'd always recommend rolling when possible. Thanks!
I saw you applying the finish with both roller and cut-in pad. Would it make a difference to the finish if I only use a cut-in pad throughout?
Hi Monjoyjoy - Some contractors prefer to use just a cut-in pad to apply the finish throughout the job. Some mount it on a pole and use it almost like a t-bar for the field, while using it flat along the edges like a regular cut-in application; while others use it almost like a brush; bent over and applying in strokes, evenly down the floor - with the benefit being that you're very close to your work and can easily see what's going on; with the negative being it's a bit hard on your back. Learn the t-bar and roller applications (using a cut-in pad with both) and you'll never need to learn another method, as those two will cover you for 99.9% of any job out there. Thanks for your question and hope this helps!
Hello, can I apply a second or third layer of Bona Traffic HD after the first layer has been down for ~6 months? The first layer is in excellent condition - I just want maximum protection on the floors. Do I need to sand the floors before applying the second or third layer?
Thanks!
Hi Dean - In short, yes, more finish can be applied over the existing (recoating). Keys are that the floor needs to first be very clean (don't want to coat over dirt and debris); to Make sure no contaminants are on the floor (polishes; counter, window or other cleaner residues, etc); then Floor must be thoroughly and evenly abraded (Bona Conditioning Pads w/1-2 Bona Diamond discs 180 - 240grit); then Cleaned again to remove all the abrasive dust/debris; and finally coated with new finish.
Also, maximum protection doesn't necessarily mean more coats of finish. Keep in mind that as more coats of finish are applied, that the surface may start to look more plasticky and less natural as the finish layers build up. Standard system would be stain and or sealer, then two coats of finish over the top; maybe recoating every 5-7 years for residential; annually for sport and commercial.
Hope that helps and feel free to reach out to our technical services team at (800) 872-5515 if you have any further questions. Thanks!
I just got all the step by step Bona Products. i am curious, can i apply Grund and Lac with HVLP Gun or Spray painter to the floor?
thank you!
Or the roller is a must?
Hello Delighted - While we do know of a very, very, very small group of professionals who apply Bona products with HVLP sprayers, it's definitely not recommended (because of the dangers of micro-droplets being airborne); plus it can ruin your sprayer equipment if not cleaned out immediately (depending on the product). So, please stick with your Plan B above and go with the Bona Roller. It puts on beautiful coats and is quite easy to use. Thanks and hope this helps.
Hello, we put down unfinished maple flooring in our home. We are planning to use the Bona Pacific Filler in Maple/Ash/Pine, then sanding. We are planning to use the Bona microfiber roller for application, along with the Bona Mega One in Satin. Which sealer would you recommend to get a clear finish that does not amber over time? We are leaving the maple natural and would like it to stay that color. Also, how many coats of sealer and how many coats of the Bona Mega One would you recommend? Does this plan sound good? Thank you in advance!
Hello RonniLG13 - Yep, that sounds like a good plan. To keep your maple as clear and natural as possible, with no yellowing now or over time, use one coat of Bona IntenseSeal, followed by 2-3 coats of Mega One Satin. IntenseSeal has no color and will not amber at all over time, but will pull nice natural highlight colors from the maple itself. Both the Sealer and Finish are also great products to apply with the roller. Best of luck on your project and hope this helps!
I like the look of my floors with the bonaseal alone. Is it resilient enough for that?
Hello Nuno - No, the Sealers are not resilient enough to protect all the aspects of your floor for which a Finish is designed. If you like the look of straight BonaSeal, then you'd probably want to coat it with one of the satin or commercial satin Finish sheens to achieve the same look. Hope that helps!
What product i can use for refinish after cleaning wax removal only no sanding and quick drying if possible thanks.
Hi Sany - That's a tough question. If there's wax, polishes, or any other types of those contaminants on the floor, we'd recommend you use the Guaranteed Bona Recoating System (with one of the Bona Traffic family of finishes) to ensure that you'll have a successful recoat. Here's a webinar that we just had last week in regard to recoating: th-cam.com/video/xmbF-2-U93s/w-d-xo.html
You'll also find several other videos on our Bona Professional channel dealing with our recoating processes. Hope that all helps!
Im doing this for my stair project. I have new unfinished treads. What applicator do you recommend to apply the nordicseal. Especially during the bull nosing of the stairs where it curves.
Hi Tracey - Sounds like a great project! On stair treads, I'd probably use a small painter's pad and or a regular 2" paint brush to apply the sealer and finish (depends on how tight the stairs and detail areas are). A brush would also be a great choice for the rounded areas of the bull-nosings. You'll just need to be careful to not apply too much to any vertical surfaces, as you could have some runs/drips to then deal with between coats (just let them dry really well, then lightly scrape, sand, or cut them off underneath the nosing with utility knife. Slow and careful on these detail areas, maybe applying thinner coats is a better idea than too much on each coat.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project!
@@BonaProfessional do you have any specific recommendations as to what material pad/brush will give the best finish?
Do I need to cut it in if its new construction? I dont have any base moldings in yet
Hi Shane - With no base trim up, you can probably just use the roller on 99% of the floor - including the cutting in along open walls. I usually still carry a small cut-in pad or a chip brush to cut-in the detail areas or areas where the roller can't reach. Take care with this, though, as cut-in pad and brush will tend to put down a thinner application (sometimes that is visible); so hit roller wherever possible and don't pull other tools too thin. Thanks for the question and hope this helps. If not, feel free to reach out to our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515.
Where do you find those pressure end caps for the microfiber roller??? Training wheels... and that is a 3/16-Inch Nap? Can't find them anywhere... What is the roller setup with the end caps is what I'm asking.
Hello Fern - The all white Microfiber Roller Cover (item# AT31002000) comes with the training wheels; while the candy-striped cover does not. Both are a 3/8" nap. Please see the distributor locator on our Professional website at www.Bona.com. Hope this helps!
Well you probably don't hear much but complaining, I even called in before doing my third coat and was told Traffic HD is not for DIY. I'm 56, I've been painting, gelcoating, varnishing, boats and cars etc since I was little. Anyway, I finally got it. Here were the clues and keys. I tend to put too little on, this time I mixed up the whole gallon, after all that sanding, it's cheap. At the end, I used 40% more product than I did the second time and the dimples flowed away. The roller and the pad, my Mom said "slow down", she knows how to paint, also like you said, "don't use pressure on the roller" feather light. Even with those, in the middle of the job I got lost, couldn't see the dry and wet, heck I rolled across, light and slow and wet. NO PROBLEM, it flowed. No fan either. My third problem, the roller, thank god I had some cheap Home Depot rollers, I bought the Red fancy expensive roller from Sherwin Williams, I dipped it in the puddle, the puddle turned RED! grabbed my damp dust towel pulled the puddle into the towel and threw it out the window. Changed out the rollers outside and got on my way. Also, make sure you SHAKE the satin and matte gallons before use or you will get a shiny and flat section. Its beautiful, my friends and neighbors all are impressed and the best news is my barn cat came in to look and peed on the floor, I didn't find it till this morning, it didn't soak in, I am SO happy. Thank you Bona
Hi Johnny - Glad it all worked out for you. Now, about that dang cat...........
Hi, I’m wondering how I should apply this to stair treads that I’m going to install? They have a flat nose instead of the traditional round bull nose. My question is, should I apply prior to installing? Also, what is the best technique to apply to a vertical surface (the nose)?
Also, do I wet the applicator for the first time with the product itself?
Hello Chip - If it's a flat nose, probably best to apply the finish prior to installing the treads (so you can place it in a horizontal plane while applying the finish). Typically on rounded bullnose, we'll use a small foam or paint brush to apply a thin layer of sealer/finish to the nosings, while coating the main tread too. Watch for drips forming and may have to scrape/lightly sand them off the underside right before the very last coat - but that's why you want to go "thin" too. May need to apply a couple extra coats if applying really thin in a vertical application in order to build up the protection a bit better on these very exposed surfaces. Hope that helps!
Hi, I followed this video to a T but the Bona Mega satin left streak marks. The room was a bit hotter than usual. I'm wondering if it was the humidity. What's the best way to remove these without losing the stain?
Hi James - Sorry to hear that you had some issues applying the Mega Satin. Probably too many variables, that may have played a hand in the result, to answer here. Please give your Bona territory manager a call or feel free to dial up our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
Hi, is it possible to spray it with a HVLP gun? it's for a white oak handrail? thanks in advance.
Hello S&S - Although we don't test that application method for flooring, we do hear of contractors (flooring and stairs) successfully using an HVLP sprayer for successful applications. A bit of a trail and error process, but try and keep pieces as horizontal as possible and know that runs can develop on anything vertical. Would also highly recommend wearing an OSHA approved organic vapor cartridge respirator; single component products are going to be easier to use and clean up (i.e. Bona Mega One (clear) or Bona Mega (slight amber)); and immediately clean up your equipment after use. Hope that helps and Thanks for the question!
how do you maintain the floor after application? Can it be moped with water and soap?
Hi ValeriaM - No wet maintenance until the finish has fully cured; so 3-7 days on that (but dry dusting is fine during that time, as well as wet clean-up of spills, sticky messes, etc). After that, just use a Bona Mop and Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner. See our consumer videos on Floor Care at www.bona.com
Thanks!
Will this method work for nordic sealer white wash
Hi timzstr - Yes, you can apply Bona NordicSeal with the roller method, as our EU counterparts only use that tool. We recommend the t-bar for NordicSeal, but you need to take a little extra care with that tool as well. Here's the link to our best practices video for pigmented sealers application (hope this helps):
th-cam.com/video/gV_UJdNy-v4/w-d-xo.html
We are ready to use sealer and MegaOne on a fifty year old red oak floor that has been sanded. We have gaps between boards throughout all the rooms. We are not filling them as the filler will work it self out over the years and looks worse than the gaps. Should we be concerned about pouring the products straight on the floor and gaps?
Hi Ellen - Yes, I'd be concerned about the pouring the finish directly on a floor like you're describing, as it will tend to run down in between the boards - costing you product that should be on top of the boards; and possibly causing some issues in between or underneath the flooring too. Best solution is to dip and roll out of a paint tray or wide bucket to eliminate the puddles of finish on the surface. Hope that helps.
Hi, how many coats do I need to apply and how much time do I need to wait in between? Thanks!
Hi Gianluca - Thanks for the question. Typically, we'll apply 1-2 coats of the chosen Bona waterborne sealer, followed by 2-3 coats of a Bona waterborne finish. It all depends on which sealer you're using (and if floor is stained or natural), and to what kind of living conditions it's going to be subjected. Overall, we want to get at least 3mils of protection on top of the floor - which means 3-4 combined coats of sealer/finish; opting for that additional 4th application if kids, pets, lots of entertaining, more depth, or just peace of mind comes into the picture. Hope that helps.
Hi. Great video! I have used Traffic HD with success on our Kitchen floor about 8 years ago. Much of the floor still looks great, but there are 2 problems I'd like to address.
Several spots the cracks between the boards have opened up to an annoying extent. Not a wide separation but long - up to 30" long in a couple of spots. Also there are a lot of dog scratches in one area. I did the original work myself so I also take credit for the flubs as well as the good spots. My thought was to screen the entire floor, and feather into sanding the dog damaged area a bit more. Then I was going to use a trowelable wood filler to go over the entire are removing 99% as I go. That would take care of the cracks between the boards. My biggest worry is how to blend the dog area with the parts of the floor that are basically perfect? thoughts?
Also... Where can I get some of those snap on 'Training Wheels" show in the video used as roller finish thickness guides. thanks
Hi Bill - Thanks for the questions, but there are too many variables at play that we'd want to clarify before giving you some options for some possible paths forward. When you get a moment, please call our Technical Services crew at (800) 872-5515, and ask for Todd Schutte. I'll look forward to talking to you!
Do you dilute the finish with water before application or is it ready to be applied straight from the bottle? If you dilute, what would the ratio of finish to water be?
Hi Joshua - We definitely do not recommend that the finish is diluted - it's ready-to-use straight away. If you've got really fast drying conditions and you've done everything that you can to control the temperature, relative humidity, airflow, and application rate - then Bona Retarder could also be added to give you more open time. Hope that helps!
Thanks
You're very welcome!
If using 3 coats of mega clear HD you should not abrade btw coats?
Hi Jason - When using Bona's waterborne sealers and finishes, there is no need to abrade between coats for "adhesion" (like with oil-modified poly) but only for smoothness (or if it's been more than 48 hours since the last coat was applied, then lightly abrade with Bona Conditioning Pad, vacuum and tack with water to clean - prior to next coat). If you have a lot of grain raise or debris in the finish, or some other reason why the floor needs to be abraded between coats, you most certainly can - but it's a big advantage if you've kept the air and floor clean, to not have to abrade and apply continuous, sequential coats to increase your build, overall protection, and clarity of the "system".
Hope this answers your question!
this method will leave surface rough so what grit sandpaper can use for in-between coats?
Hi Luba - If the floor is burnished to 120 grit for the final sanding, and then thoroughly cleaned (Tampico Brush on buffer/DCS vac attached; dry tack, etc), we usually don't experience the roughness you're concerned about. If stained, even less. However, if you do get some grain raise or need to abrade for smoothness, we'll typcially use 1-2 16" Conditioning Pads stacked under the buffer (to soften the aggressiveness) and then place two or three 180 grit or 240 grit Bona Diamonds on the Pads. That should turn out a very smooth sealer/finish surface for the final coat. Hope that helps!
I applied the Bona Classic Seal with a roller and found that once I was finished there were dark spots where the roller stopped, even though I tried feathering through. I am really hoping this evens out when it dries, but, if not, is there a way to fix this?
Hi @nrsloan1 - Sorry to hear that you had a product issue with your project. Too many unknown variables to type a helpful reply here, but please contact our Tech Services team at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
I followed the instructions. When I pour I am not able to roll out the pour. It happened with both the bona intense and the traffic hd. Temp was 20 deg C. No air flow.
Hi Richard - If you're having issues rolling and have totally controlled the job site (and product) temperature, relative humidity, and air flow; then not sure exactly what the potential causes are but there are a number of other factors that could be playing into it. Probably best to call our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
Can this product be used on say a engineered flooring ?
Hi Doug - Absolutely! Bona finishing products work great on solid and engineered wood flooring products.
Hola me gustaría saber más de este materias
Hola José - Encontrará más información sobre los productos Bona en otros videos disponibles en nuestro canal de TH-cam Bona Professional; o asistir a una escuela Bona Sand & Finish; y de su gerente de territorio local de Bona. ¿Dónde estáis ubicados? ¡Gracias por el interés!
Aquí es donde puedes inscribirte en una Escuela Bona - www.bona.com/en-us/professional/training/schools/
What about when its 110 F in middle of summer? & Hvac has got it to 88F in the house? You would work a rapid drying edge across the room perpendicular to the direction of the wood? Sometimes deadlines dont allow only coating late night or early am
Hi Bauer - Yep, completely understand when you're faced with difficult job site conditions and unforgiving deadlines. Three variables that you need to try and control - room Temperature (and product temperature too - cool down your finish in the refrigerator for an hour before application to increase your open time); room Humidity levels (higher humidity will increase open/dry times) - but this can be most difficult variable to control; and Air Flow - want zero air flow during application. One other thing you can do is add Bona Retarder to your sealer/finish which will also give you more open time.
The other thing I'll typically change when faced with a difficult job site or layout is to utilize the "roll in sections" method to really control the application and not have to worry about dry edges or overlapping.
Also, always finish in the same direction as the wood runs whenever possible; so, about the only time we'll use the roller cross-grain is if/when needed to work our way out of a room. But, because the roller lays the finish straight down and doesn't pull through it, those who are very practiced with the roller could apply the whole room cross-grain and have it come out beautiful.
Hope this helps and Thanks for your question and scenario!
Is your roller light damp to prevent bubbles and ship sections while rolling water base polyurethane?
Hi again, Clean Shark - We always like to get the roller rinsed out and then dried back to "just damp" to minimize the amount of sealer or finish that is soaked up by the roller during the initial application phase. If you have too much moisture left in the roller, though, you can get shinier streaks or marks in the floor where the water dilutes the sealer/finish too much and affects the sheen level at the start of the application as well. Hope that helps explain what we meant - and why.
@@BonaProfessional thank you !
The floor I'm working on is oak with beveled edges, so an 1/8 to 1/4 reveal between boards. Do you recommend pouring and rolling or just loading in a tray so as not to overfill the reveals?
Hi Gem - Great question. With that type of flooring, it's definitely best to load into a tray or set up a dip box. You're correct in your suspicion of possibly loading up the reveals - which the roller depth may or may not take out - but best not to chance it. Thanks and hope this helps!
Could you please tell me which way the grain goes on the video? Is he rolling against the grain and then feathering with the grain, or is it the other way around?
Hi Melanie - Yes, the way we phrase that in the hardwood flooring industry isn't always clear. Whenever we say "with the grain", we mean in the same direction that the boards run. "Against" or "cross-grain" would be perpendicular to the direction of the boards. Even though the roller spans "across" the boards, the direction that it's being used to apply and feather the product would be considered "with the grain", as he's moving the roller back and forth in the same direction that the boards run. The only time he rolls against the grain is right when he first puts the roller on the floor and is re-rolling where the floor was cut-in. Hope that answers your question. Thx!
I never do this but here I go. I just recently bought a 100-year-old house and found these amazing wood floors that I wanted to restore. I watched many videos on how to do this and also how to mess it up. So I prepped my floors well: sanded and vacuumed in between sanding each grit, used a tack cloth to clean them after. I then bought the Intenseseal and Traffic HD in satin.
Here are a few things I noticed.
My floor drank up the sealer. I soaked the roller in sealer first then started rolling it out by pouring the sealer on the ground and smoothing it out as I went. It took almost 2 bottles for an area that should have been only about 1. You should have some extra on hand so you don't run out in the middle of the project. Luckily I had bought extra.
Next, I was on to the finish. I was so nervous to do the Traffic HD, everything I read and saw said this is where the Pros differ from the DIYers. So I tack clothed the floor and mixed everything. I soaked the roller that I was using (different roller than the sealer one) because from what I read it seemed people were having a lot of problems because their roller wasn't wet enough. At first I was worried. The areas I was pouring the finish on seemed to start to turn a whitish color and I thought I had messed up. I accepted my fate and waited with 3 hours before I tack clothed the floor again and went in for the final layer. (At this point I was too far in and I just accepted I had messed up.) But as I was tacking the floor I noticed all the white I was worried about before was gone. That the floor actually looked amazing! It was a vibrant color and had no signs of streaks or weird white marks. So I poured the final layer (which did not have the same white streaking problem) and left. I came back and those floors still look amazing! I am letting them cure for a week or longer since it is cold here.
I am so glad I took the chance and tried it. I will admit that I only sanded to 120 grit. I used a belt sander for the 32, 60, 80, 100. Then I got the random square sander and I again went over it with 100 then 120. I also did not abraide it between layers of finish. I put the sealer on and waited a little less than 24 hours then I applied the finish with the second coat of finish going on 3 hours from the first.
I don’t know if I did anything right but that’s what worked for me. I guess the ultimate test is how long the floors last and if any problem areas come up.
Hi Christiana - Congrats on the successful project using Bona IntenseSeal and Bona Traffic HD! There are so many variables in doing a wood floor project, that we're not sure what might be the cause of the issues you listed above Best guess on the sealer usage is that you were losing it down the board seams and not necessarily soaking in so fast through the face of the board - might have suggested a dunk-and-roll method, instead of the puddle method. Have seen the white marks appear over stained floors, but looks like you only had IntenseSeal on this floor. Might have been from the "tack rags" which usually contain solvents, etc - whereas professionals only tack with water or use a dry microfiber when using waterborne sealers and finishes. Regardless, glad those marks went away and that you're happy with your floors! Now, make sure you take proper care of them with some Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner and a Bona Microfiber Mop kit. Enjoy!
Thank you for responding! I am on to another area of my house and will use your advice for the room.
I have the same issue with the white lines in places where I poured the finish - Mega One in my case, which supposed to work as a sealer and a finish 2-in-1. Unfortunately the white lines did not disappear in my case even after 8 hours. Bona support suggested to go ahead with the 2nd and 3rd coats and expect the white lines will disappear with time. Fingers crossed.
I had to abrade between coats, as the product raised the wood grain.
@@BonaProfessional all the roller application videos in your library recommend the pouring method and don't underline the fact that in all the videos you apply the demonstrated products on a pre-coated surface.
I suggest you make a video, where you apply your products onto newly sanded floor and provide instructions and techniques suitable for this case.
I followed your guidance with the puddle method for the 1st coat with Mega One, and got the white stripes as another author did. Unfortunately my stripes didn't disappear. Today I would use the cutting tool for the 1st coat or dunk-and-roll.
Just applied first coat, have one small area 5 inches by about 3 feet looking milky...will this dry back normal? Traffic HD satin over 2 coats minwax oil stain that has dried for about 40 hours.
Hi Earl - Has this issue corrected itself? Too many possible variables to fully discuss here, so would suggest you call our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515. Definitely would not recommend Minwax stain, and never 2 coats - regardless of the dry time.
@@BonaProfessional yes, my biggest issue is peelng in a few small areas at doorways, but very minimal and not picking at them. This Bona hd traffic should state not compatible with minwax oil in my opinion. It has extremely low adhesion.
I am having the same issue all over my bedroom floor. Used Bona Drifast graphite, dried for 40 hours as well. Applied traffic hd and immediately white milky spots appeared.
Greetings. Do you ever apply this product over a painted floor?
Hi Mark - Bona waterborne products are applied to painted floors every day (especially on the Sport side of the business). If it's an existing painted floor, or if you're using a non-Bona paint underneath, you'll need to test for compatibility between the paint and Bona finish of your choosing.
For further assistance, please give our Technical Support team a call at (800) 872-5515. Hope that helps answer your question!
Do you use the same method between the sealer and the finish?
Hi Eddie - Yes, the roller method is the same for both Sealer and Finish applications. Some adjustments (or just working a bit faster) might be needed for the very first coat of Sealer, as that is often the most difficult application regardless of method/tool. Hope that helps!
Can you use this method, going against the grain? The doorway is perpendicular to the floorboards and just trying to plan this out as best as possible,
Hi Mike D - Absolutely! One of the big advantages of learning how to apply with a roller is that you can go across the grain, if needed. As a best practice, we would recommend to always go with the grain when possible, but because the roller lays the finish straight down (and isn't pulling through it like with t-bar, cut-in pad, or brush - which tends to leave streaks) - so rolling with the grain or across it should result in the same look. It still takes practice, though, as if there is one watch out, it would be the marks/paths that might be left from the edges of the roller (cross grain) if not applied correctly. Hope that helps!
Thank you for the video. I am using Bona for the first time all this week. I would be dripping sweat all over the floor at 95F
Hello saneauto - Yes, I think we would all be dripping sweat all over the floor at 95F; which, if that is the case, then use an athletic headband, or bandana around your head. Heck, even a terry cloth rag would work; anything to minimize or eliminate dripping sweat onto the floor while you're applying finish.
I have already used Minwax polyurethane oil based finish on my maple hardwood floor but not happy with the finish so now want to use Bona. Can I use over that? What should I do to prep for it do I sand it or use a sealer first?
Hi @myangels1266 - Most likely you can abrade the existing topcoat of Minwax poly with a Conditioning Pad (Scotchbrite); thoroughly clean the surface of the extra fine dust and overcoat with the Bona finish of your choice. But do a small test area first to assure compatibility and the desire results. Hope that helps!
Thank you for the information. Can I ask which type Scotchbrite pad should I use? There are many different kinds when I looked them up. @@BonaProfessional
Hello, I applied one coat of Bona Nordic Seal on a surface of 350 square feet; some product is left over but it's not enough for the second coat. Unfortunately I had to order more product but it will arrive in 5 days (past 48 hours). Do I need to abrade the surface before the second coat or can I go ahead and apply the second coat? Thank you very much .
Yep, that's an unfortunate situation (hate when that happens)! While you might be o.k. to go ahead and just coat it again, the best practice would be to add some fresh abrasion. We'd double stack a couple of Bona Conditioning Pads and just hit it very quickly - and evenly (sides and detail areas by hand); then vac and or tack to remove any residual dust and apply the second coat.
Hello, how soon can I walk on after applying Bona Traffic hd and how long should I wait between first and second coat??
Hi Hugo - Traffic HD can we walked on after 2-4 hours of drying (depending on temp/humidity/air flow); attains an 80% cure in 24-hours; and a full cure in 72-hours. Typically, you'll need to wait 3-4 hours after applying the first coat before applying a second. If longer than 48 hours in between coats, then suggested to lightly abrade with a Conditioning Pad (320grit); then vacuum and damp tack to remove any residual dust prior to applying the next coat. Hope that helps!
@BonaProfessional the container says the mix (with the hardner) expires in 4 hours. What can we do to assure the second coat goes on by then? Any videos on how to properly divide the part A and hardner into smaller portions? It was an expensive buy for us and we unfortunately have to go I'm small sections.
I'm having issues on a dance floor. 2500 sq feet of maple. The T bar is leaving lines. Im using satin finish. My questions are: would matte be a better option if I buff out and roll? And can I tape lines down and do sections? Its 50 foot long.
Hi Austin - Matte might be easier to achieve an even surface; and yes, you can tape down board seams and do it in sections. Big question would be are they applicator streaks or sanding marks still in the harder maple showing through? Feel free to reach out to our Technical Services team if you need further assistance at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
@@BonaProfessional They are definitely not sanding marks. Been sanding my whole life. I finished with a 3ds and trio. Looked amazing. I use bona mega one satin with the retarded today and it looked somewhat better. At my last straw here.
I had a similar issue using bona slightly white sealer and mega one. I went down to Supermat and did my absolute best roll out I could. Looked perfect except for big window sun a little bit of applicator marks. I think we just have to inform our client ahead of time that's going to be the case. When you do maple and you trio them to perfection they are so flat there's no way to hide any roller or pad marks. I never seem to get those with Swedish though but people hate the yellow.
Satin finish is the hardest to apply and not have “lines” . I highly recommend not to try and touch up any sections and to apply the whole thing in one shot. Feathering with the direction of the wood and having the right amount of finish is key. You probably have a lot of experience and try to get the thickest coat possible. I would recommend two thinner coats as to one super thick. I hope this helps you as I have learned this the hard way.
@@REALAJNASTY What width roller are you using? And what nap roller are you using?
We have a brand new construction and are thinking about applying the Bona Natural Seal first and then the Bona Traffic HD in Extra Matte. Would a roller be the best to use on application for both of these? We have all hardwood in the home and it is currently sand in place white oak. No base trim has been added yet. Any tips or suggestions for install would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Ashley - While the Bona Roller can be used to apply both Bona NaturalSeal and Bona Traffic HD; we've found that a t-bar tends to work best with the NaturalSeal. Regardless of which applicator you decide on, two coats of NaturalSeal will definitely tend to come out more even; so that might be more important that which method you use to apply it. Please see out video on Best Practices for Applying Pigmented Waterborne Sealers here:
th-cam.com/video/gV_UJdNy-v4/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps and if you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to our Technical Services team at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
Why does the seal coat look so cloudy on my floors? I lay the coating down as he did season the roller pulling back and unless I'm removing almost all the ceiling it appears cloudy
Hi RG00 - Unless you're talking about NaturalSeal or NordicSeal (which contain white pigment, so they will always looks a bit cloudy/white), then the Sealer coat shouldn't look cloudy. Sometimes, when applied over stain, the Sealers can turn a bit cloudy while wet, but then it clears up as they dry. Any further details might help us provide a better answer. Thanks!
Porque a minha aplicação não fica totalmente lisa
Se aplica seco fica xupado se aplico grosso fica casca de laranja?
Olá CA - (apenas usando o Googe Translate, então espero que chegue até o.k.). Onde você está localizado? Gostaria de o colocar em contacto com o seu representante local da Bona para obter assistência técnica. Obrigado!
Amigon después que voce pasa las dos manos de producto siempre fica cómo casca de laranja?
i have scratches in my timber floor due to moving steel chairs. Any fix for this ?
Hi @senthilmonkey - If the scratches are only in the finish, then a simple abrade and recoat might resolve those close to new. However, if the wood is actually indented, then only a resand can take those all the way out. An alternative to resanding could be to recoat with Traffic HD Extra Matt or Traffic HD RAW, as these very low sheen finishes can help mask the presence of scratches down into the wood as well (especially RAW). If possible, apply some felt floor protectors on the bottoms of the steel chairs to keep this from continuing.
Hope that helps!
Just sanded my floor an the natural wood looks to nice to stain. Always thought oil based was the toughest finish. Doing my research this product in a matte finish is what I’m going to go with.
Hi Lucid - There are a lot of very good finishes on the market, with both OMU and waterborne topping the list in terms of market share. But you've hit the nail on the head with the "matte" choice, as even the toughest finish will show a lot more wear, tear, dirt, debris, scratches, scuffs as you get shinier in sheen level. So, going with matte or extra matte is the best choice for long-term performance and satisfaction in how the floor looks overall.
Can this be used on raw oak kitchen cabinets?
Hi ShellBells - Yes, you can use Bona products on other wood projects, though we only test for flooring applications. If you're going to try this on cabinet doors, we'd simply recommend taking them off and finishing them in a horizontal position as "runs" could definitely be a problem if applied vertically. Good luck with your project!
Is a sealer necessary on a freshly sanded floor? Or is a couple coats of finish enough?
Hello @jankovac8582 - Regardless of waterborne or solvent-based finishing systems, a sealer is usually recommended for a number of reasons. Less cost; penetrates and helps start your build; minimizes side-bonding (the boards getting glued together by stronger finishes); etc. Read the directions on the finish that you plan to use, as they'll typically point you in the right direction for sealer choices. Thanks for the question!
I have a question? and that product cannot be applied with a HVLP machine
Hi Carlos - While applying the waterborne Sealers/Finishes with an HVLP sprayer is not something that we test, we do know of several cabinet makers and floor Craftsmen who successfully use that method with Bona products - mainly trial and error approach to find the right settings. The single component products are less of an issue (Bona Mega ONE), but the 2C product (Bona Traffic HD) have also been successfully applied with a sprayer. Definitely want to wear full PPE and immediately clean out all your equipment (otherwise the 2C product can harden and ruin your sprayer). Hope that helps a bit.
What type of roller did you use? Don’t think the exact details were mentioned or maybe I missed it
Hi Juanita - It's a Bona Microfiber Roller that's available from your local Bona wholesale distributor. If you can't find one, then most good quality 3/8" microfiber rollers available at the Big Box stores would work too. Hope that helps!
I suspect if there were a way to measure the thickness of that coat of finish there would be virtually no variance throughout the entire floor. Just beautiful.
Hi Cubbie Girl! The Bona Roller does tend to put down a very nice, even coat; if the user just remembers "finger-tip pressure" and let the tool do the work (you're just the guide for the tool). Thanks for the nice comment!
same coverage?? t-bar vs roll on?
Hi Fabian - Always a good question. The Roller will apply the sealers/finishes heavier than the t-bar; typically leaving 1.25 to 1.5 mils per application, where the t-bar will be closer to 1.0 mils. Hope that helps!
Olá, sou profissional de pavimentos em madeira. Nos meus últimos trabalhos Traffic HD nao tive muito sucesso com o trabalho, ficaram muitas marcas de paragem e rolo. Tive que refazer o trabalho com imenso custo. Piso em sucupira
Olá Ronaldo - Desculpe saber que você teve um problema ao aplicar o Bona Traffic HD. Você já entrou em contato com o seu distribuidor Bona local para discutir a situação com eles? Muitas variáveis para tentar solucionar seu problema neste fórum, portanto, entre em contato para obter assistência local. Obrigado!
What nap for the roller? 1/4 inch?
Hi @RiderOfBuffalo - Most of the roller covers in our industry for applying waterborne sealers and finishes are 3/8" nap microfiber. Thanks for the question!
Which roller are you using?
Hi @user-pt1rs6tl8c - It's a 3/8" nap Bona Microfiber Roller. If you can't get ahold of one, then any "Best" quality 3/8" microfiber roller at the Big Box stores should give similar results.
If a person tapped 9" paper up the walls to protect the walls and eliminate the potential of contamination from unseen contaminants on the wall. Could you just roll on the finish and eliminate the cut in pad?
Hi @mikeharmon26 - It's tough to just use a roller only or a t-bar only on a floor - even a wide open sport floor. There's always detail areas and such that you just can't get with the main applicator. Also, the contaminants usually don't come off the wall, but from under baseboards and other floor level trim work. Any puddle that gets underneath tends to pull them out, and the use of a cut-in pad or brush around the edges tends to minimize that type of situation. Hope that helps answer your question!
Why would my floors still be sticky a few days later ?
Hi Conor - Too many variables to take a shot at answering here, but please give your local Bona territory manager a call - or dial up our tech services team at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!
Well, can't seem to find that roller.............ANYWHERE. Any assistance ??
Hi @teresa6775 - Try Floormechanics.com or you could also use a "Best" quality 3/8" microfiber roller from the Big Box or paint stores.
@@BonaProfessional Sweet, thank you !!!!
Where can I buy the roller ?
Hi chefelk - Here's a link where you can find your closest Bona Distributor. Lots of our distributors also have online stores, like FloorMechanics.com, where you can also order and buy. Hope this helps!
www.bona.com/en-us/professional/find-a-distributor/
what nap???
Hi Uriah - A 3/8" nap microfiber roller cover works best.
13:05 Is he saying when applying Bona sealer you should T-bar it instead?
Hi Justin - Yes, that's what he said, but that's more personal preference. We know plenty of U.S. craftsmen who apply all their sealers/finishes with a roller; along with almost all the rest of the world. So, if the roller is what you're most confident in using, then just keep on rolling! Thanks!
Lol. Skilled users only . Or practice on a wall , lol. I m doing a staircase and rails with a foam brush . Product is actually great looking when applied correctly . There’s a fine line in coats , anything past two can look 👀 painted on white oak from the 15 samples I ve done . It still looks amazing just a different look . So for me on white oak with a foam brush applicator on treads it’s going to be two even coats to show grain and natural look . There’s no other way on stairs imo for all the thin pieces on the sides . Bona should use my job as a showpiece 👍👍. All custom rails with crazy dowels and puzzle fits . A floor is a piece of cake compared to a staircase . I ll make a cid to lore morning before I start first coat and you guys can check it out
Hi Hungry Bird - Rolling is actually a lot easier to learn than applying with a T-bar. On stairs we'd tend to use the Cut-In Pad and maybe a foam or regular paint brush to hit the detailed areas. And, yes, the more coats you apply, the more you will lose the natural appearance of the grain and get a deeper look. Also affected by the finish "sheen" being applied; where high gloss tends to have a more dramatic, apparent effect of build-up, while lower gloss sheens (commercial satin, extra matte) can take more coats without looking too deep or artificial. Would love to check out your work - where can we see it?
What does HD mean?
Hello Eduardo - HD stands for Heavy Durability.
@@BonaProfessional Thank you!
👍
Thanks for the "thumbs up" approval, Stunning! We're glad it helped!
Not really sure why he says that sealer would not be rolled on? The product is going on and soaking in regardless of what method you use.
Hi Tony - Good catch (as he also said right at the beginning that he'd had a DTS Sealer roller cover stored for 3-4 years and kept re-using without a problem); so I believe he misspoke in that regard. The only "watch-out" that we'd discuss when rolling Sealer coats is to perhaps work in smaller sections and ensure you've really got your temp, humidity, and airflow under control (as that first coat over raw wood tends to set up so much faster). Other than that, rolling Sealers tends to give you an excellent first coat(s) and is not something we would preach against! Cheers!
That looks slower than the t-bar application.
Hi Dee - Applying with a Roller can be a bit slower than a t-bar; but it also puts downs a heavier coat (perhaps eliminating the need for an additional t-bar coat), can be applied with or across the grain (critical for herringbone and other parquet patterns, etc); and, it gives you easier options of 1-man and 2-man applications. Both are good methods that a professional floor guy should have in his application arsenal. Thanks!
I am more interested in the replies than the comments, and I like what I read, only someone with a depth of experience would know some of your observations...
Hi AP - That "depth of experience" spans not only my 30 years at Bona, but also the input of global craftsmen that we've gleaned over the years as well. We never believe that we've done or seen it all, and approach all jobs, Bona Schools, and testing with a fully open mind. Thanks!
Use a 18 inch roller for God sakes
Hi Leah - We find that an 9-inch roller is easier to work with in residential situations; in the same regard that a 12" t-bar tends to be easier than an the 18" t-bar (though that's our preference on a gym floor). To each his own, though, as some prefer to finish their floors with only a 6" China Bristle Brush or a 9" Cut-In Pad. Thanks!
I feel like you are geting shit everywhere. When you straighting the poly out, Why are you flicking the rolller so hard? doesn't that get shit everywhere how are you going to properly finish a floor flinging shit everywhre.
Good question, Brandon! If you don't use the right roller or use the right one incorrectly, that's very possible. The right roller and the right method doesn't flick stuff everywhere; but if you roll too fast and or get way too much product on the roller, then this method might not be for you.