🛒 We Recommend Shopping At: • Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=theso... • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order • Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSol... • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order 🤓 Watch the rest of the videos in this playlist: • Intro to Solar ☀ Get a Free Solar Estimate for Your Home: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-... 0:00 - Intro 1:15 - Series 2:40 - Parallel 4:37 - Real Life Example 5:15 - Series Parallel 6:58 - Summary This video will teach you the difference between wiring your solar panels in series vs parallel, and also how to combine both of these configurations to wire your panels in a series parallel configuration. We also show you step by step how to wire your solar panel array in each configuration, along with the pros and cons. Enjoy! 🔔 Subscribe to our TH-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab ⚡ FOLLOW US: / thesolarlab / thesolarlab 👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab: www.thesolarlab.com We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
A few corrections. On series arrays, solar panels >= 100W have bypass diodes so if a panel is shaded it just goes into bypass. The array can continue producing and (for the most part) only the shaded panel's output drops off. Where paralleling works better in some cases it is really only in situations where there is a lot of random shading happening on many panels. On paralleling arrays, you can't just connect the positives together and the negatives together. You need to use a combiner box that individually fuses each source. Combiner boxes also typically have surge protection and a master breaker for convenient maintenance. Without the fuses, paralleling 3 or more panels introduces significant fire risk. And to be totally honest, its a good idea to us a combiner box even when paralleling just 2. Branch connectors should never be used. They are popular, I know, but its a major failure point because people buy these things off of Amazon and they often do not have enough copper internally to work safely. People also put branch connectors up on the roof without any protection of any sort and they become hazards over time due to the MC4 tabs becoming brittle. Even if you don't think you need a combiner box, get one anyway instead of using a branch connector. It also makes working on arrays easier because you have a convenient disconnect point that does not require disconnecting and reconnecting MC4 connectors (which also tends to result in broken MC4 tabs). Generally speaking, higher voltages at lower currents are a whole lot more efficient than lower voltages at higher currents, so series is almost always the way to go. But paralleling does make sense in a few situations. -Matt
In the bad old days, a shaded panel took down the entire series string. Pretty much all new panels have a bypass diode now that fixes this problem - shaded panels just get skipped and the rest continue producing power.
Good job!!! That was a very coherent and easily discernible explanation! All that was missing was the best way to install 6 panels on top of a C class Winnebago!🤣 In all seriousness , great video!
what’s the difference between using branch components (e.g. mc4 y connector) vs splitters (e.g. xt60 splitter) for running parallel into a portable power station? is one of those safer than the other?
How are you doing solar array, grounding? Are you taking a ground wire back to your main earth ground on the grid? Are you doing a local grounding rod and then also tying that into your main ground at the grid? I’m curious what you’re doing for your set up thank you
So I purchased a Anker f2600 with a 60v max input @ 20 amps. However it says it can accept 1000w of solar. How in the world can I do this? Is this even possible? Or am I just stupid? 😂
How lazy is that, the panels clearly say there 20V x 10A for 200W rated. But you made them 250W cause you used open circuit voltage😮💨. You fuse regardless of array configuration, and you probably only need 1 rated for the final end point of array. The fuse protects your downstream equipment from the panel. If a panel outputs more than its rating, the damage is likely already done to the panel. and no fuse is going to reverse time on that.
🛒 We Recommend Shopping At:
• Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=theso...
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
• Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSol...
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
🤓 Watch the rest of the videos in this playlist: • Intro to Solar
☀ Get a Free Solar Estimate for Your Home: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-...
0:00 - Intro
1:15 - Series
2:40 - Parallel
4:37 - Real Life Example
5:15 - Series Parallel
6:58 - Summary
This video will teach you the difference between wiring your solar panels in series vs parallel, and also how to combine both of these configurations to wire your panels in a series parallel configuration. We also show you step by step how to wire your solar panel array in each configuration, along with the pros and cons. Enjoy!
🔔 Subscribe to our TH-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab
⚡ FOLLOW US:
/ thesolarlab
/ thesolarlab
👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab:
www.thesolarlab.com
We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
This is a very underrated channel.
Best solar panels explanation i've seen!, ...because science.
I like how he says “because science”
When I heard it I laughed! You didn't say it'd hit the funny bone like that. 😂
A few corrections.
On series arrays, solar panels >= 100W have bypass diodes so if a panel is shaded it just goes into bypass. The array can continue producing and (for the most part) only the shaded panel's output drops off. Where paralleling works better in some cases it is really only in situations where there is a lot of random shading happening on many panels.
On paralleling arrays, you can't just connect the positives together and the negatives together. You need to use a combiner box that individually fuses each source. Combiner boxes also typically have surge protection and a master breaker for convenient maintenance. Without the fuses, paralleling 3 or more panels introduces significant fire risk. And to be totally honest, its a good idea to us a combiner box even when paralleling just 2.
Branch connectors should never be used. They are popular, I know, but its a major failure point because people buy these things off of Amazon and they often do not have enough copper internally to work safely. People also put branch connectors up on the roof without any protection of any sort and they become hazards over time due to the MC4 tabs becoming brittle.
Even if you don't think you need a combiner box, get one anyway instead of using a branch connector. It also makes working on arrays easier because you have a convenient disconnect point that does not require disconnecting and reconnecting MC4 connectors (which also tends to result in broken MC4 tabs).
Generally speaking, higher voltages at lower currents are a whole lot more efficient than lower voltages at higher currents, so series is almost always the way to go. But paralleling does make sense in a few situations.
-Matt
I would like to see a video on complete wiring from panels to controller to inverter and home
You had me at “Because Science” that really made me laugh and loved it. 😂❤
Q: Best way to mount solar on large storage shed?
This is the video I needed, explained in a very simple way even for newbies like me, Solar connections for Dummies! Thank You! You earned my Sub!✌
Very Nice! Because OHMS Law
Fantastic video, fellas!
Thank you Man
Very good! Thank you.
best video i have ever seen for explaining thank you!
damn dude.. that was very informative.. better than alot of vids i watched.. thumbs up!
In the bad old days, a shaded panel took down the entire series string. Pretty much all new panels have a bypass diode now that fixes this problem - shaded panels just get skipped and the rest continue producing power.
I think I got it now
Good explanation. Just subscribed. Thanks.
Well done. Thank you. Subscribed.
Because science!!😊
Good job!!!
That was a very coherent and easily discernible explanation! All that was missing was the best way to install 6 panels on top of a C class Winnebago!🤣
In all seriousness , great video!
Good info!
Wow
Because science. 😂 Seriously, thanks for sharing. Great explanation. 👍👍👍
what’s the difference between using branch components (e.g. mc4 y connector) vs splitters (e.g. xt60 splitter) for running parallel into a portable power station? is one of those safer than the other?
Hooking up 2 in series/parallel together would be 30 A? You have three panels per series.
How are you doing solar array, grounding? Are you taking a ground wire back to your main earth ground on the grid? Are you doing a local grounding rod and then also tying that into your main ground at the grid? I’m curious what you’re doing for your set up thank you
Could you do a video wiring solar panels to delta pro 3 to get max watts, without going over the recommended voltage and amps?
💙
What happens if you go over just a bit over the amps spec on the charge controller?
Don’t.
Which mc4 is positive on the back of a panel? Mine doesn't say
So I purchased a Anker f2600 with a 60v max input @ 20 amps. However it says it can accept 1000w of solar. How in the world can I do this? Is this even possible? Or am I just stupid? 😂
Still confused 🤔
How lazy is that, the panels clearly say there 20V x 10A for 200W rated. But you made them 250W cause you used open circuit voltage😮💨.
You fuse regardless of array configuration, and you probably only need 1 rated for the final end point of array. The fuse protects your downstream equipment from the panel. If a panel outputs more than its rating, the damage is likely already done to the panel. and no fuse is going to reverse time on that.
2:01 sure 😂😂😂