Good video. The others pointed the new washers and prop shaft grease. Heres the hack for the oil drain tube. Go buy a piece of tubing that will reach your oil pan. Then use a piece of PVC pipe over that tubing and leaving a few inches of vinyl tubing exposed. Then tape it in place. The pvc pipe will keep the tubing straight. Just set in or just off the oil pan. This hack keeps the tubing straight and adds weight. works like a charm.
Watching from Australia mate and very interested in the 115 Pro XS as I want to upgrade from my Suzuki 90 and have heard nothing but great things about these engines in this Horsepower.
You're missing a few very important steps in the lower unit service... You need to replace the seals on both the lower unit vent plug and the drain plug. They're only intended for one use. You can probably get away with reusing them once or twice, but they are a very common source of getting water in the lower unit because they are over tightened and don't properly reseat. Part No. 830749, the newer yellow ones, not the old-school blue fiber ones. You also need to lube the prop shaft every time you take the prop off with 2-4C teflon lube. Again, you can get away without for a while but if you never do, the prop and thrust washer will eventually seize on the shaft. You already experienced the thrust washer being stuck on because of no lube. Lastly, you also need to check that prop bore sleeve, you see it wiggling around @22:50. It's white plastic with 4 locking tabs that commonly break off. If it comes loose, the exhaust gasses will ventilate around the prop and cause you to lose a lot of performance. If it's loose or broken, needs to be replaced too. Part No. 8M0070256 for the standard 2.07:1 gear case; or 8M0054695 for the Command Thrust 2.38:1 gear case.
Where did you buy these parts? The "newer" yellow washers on Amazon are $22 for 6 (that's 3 changes for me so ok) -- I was sent the blue ones from Quicksilver and that's what I just put on. BUT I cannot find the white plastic piece (not that I need one, but I would like to have on hand. I have Command Thrust). Thanks for help in advance.
@@alanaho4915 Your local mercury dealer should have all those parts in stock. My experience is they are typically cheaper from the dealer than from Amazon, but YMMV.
@@brianpeter7139 thank you for your reply. I went ahead and ordered the yellow washers on Amazon. However the prop bore (white plastic) and a nut washer didn't look the same as to what I have. I may do the dealer contact for those. Appreciate it!
Hey Mike, nice walk through of the motor service.. Seems pretty straight forward. You probably saved quite a bit of money doing it yourself and knowing it's been done correctly is a plus 😉 Maybe some grease on the prop shaft will help with disassembly next time...just a thought 👍 Did you say you had vessel view installed on your motor? A video on how it works would be cool! keep up the great videos! Thanks
I have the exact same boat and outboard. The dealer wants $250 to do what you did for a hundred. I think you can guess what I’ll be doing. Thanks for the video.
@Screamineagle Bass Catcher that's good! I have a similar setup but I'm only getting 42.. I'm running a laser II 20 pitch prop but I need to make a change because I'm only getting up to about 5400 rpms... can you tell me what prop is working for you?
The optional Command Thrust gearcase is silver. A little beefier and allows for larger props. By the way, per Mercury this motor wants 5.5 quarts in the crankcase (label on forward side of motor). Maybe that extra half quart resides in the filter after the oil is cycled through? Great video. Thanks.
If you use a deep well socket on the drain fitting to loosen, then put the hose on, you won't scratch the cowling. No oil comes out until past finger tight. All 4 of oil change vids I have watched, they use a wrench, and you can hear the wrench against the cowling on all of them. Also, I think your oil filter wrench would work much better the other way, I believe you are using it backwards.
Need a standard built socket for the lowers drain plugs, useing a regular screwdriver burrs the slot up on drain plug. This ends up ruining plug to where you eventually cant take it out or tighten it out..👍 I just changed mine out yesterday, & somebody used screwdriver & burd it up bad. I made me a socket to fit just right..
Always good to run it for bout 30 sec. to circulate oil into everything then let it set then check again. Add rest the way to full mark. Be sure an have water muffs goin to motor before running any outboard motor.
Somebody with that nice of shop & boat, need to purchase a real drain pan.😉 Can see by all your toys, pretty sure you can afford it. Get ya scooter stool with work tray under it to hold all your tools n parts easy reach while already down. Oh..thought you useing a turkey tray was goin to be your drain pan..😆
WHAT!!??? You gotta mess with prop to change lowers oil!?🤨😳 What a P.O.S., these companies try their damdest to make it harder every year so you can work on your equipment, want you take it to dealer so they can ripp you off there also!🤬 Im goin back to Yamaha. Had nothing but constant repairs since I bought my Merc. Optimax, never again.
My understanding on that is it forces you to pull the prop once in a while to check the seals, and check for debris wrapped around the prop shaft. Otherwise, how often do you normally pull the prop to check for fouling or bad seals? He proved that by finding some fishing line behind the prop.
Just did my first 100 ho service on my Mercury proxs 115. Thanks for your easy to follow instructions. Felt very confident after watching your video.
Great to hear!
Thanks for the your time and video! It gave me the confidence to do these fluid changes myself!
Great video. Picking up my new Lund with same motor in April. So excited to have a brand new boat!
Good video. The others pointed the new washers and prop shaft grease.
Heres the hack for the oil drain tube. Go buy a piece of tubing that will reach your oil pan. Then use a piece of PVC pipe over that tubing and leaving a few inches of vinyl tubing exposed. Then tape it in place. The pvc pipe will keep the tubing straight. Just set in or just off the oil pan. This hack keeps the tubing straight and adds weight. works like a charm.
Nice to see another video Mike😁you covering it all😁
Excellent tutorial. Thank you very much! Off to doing mine.
thanks for the video!! getting ready to do some yearly maintenance on my merc and you definetly saved me some time thanks again goodluck this season!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the walk through. Nice video.
Thanks, going to do mine soon. As I watched, I think I will do the fuel filter while the oil filter is off. Thank you
Glad it helped
Very nice video. I have the same motor and this helped me a lot. Your garage and motorcycles are bad ass…..
Watching from Australia mate and very interested in the 115 Pro XS as I want to upgrade from my Suzuki 90 and have heard nothing but great things about these engines in this Horsepower.
Good tutorial and awesome shop
Thanks 👍
Thanks!. Seem like a great guy!
Thanks
Great and helpful video. Fish on, brother! 🎣
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks mate👍
Glad it helped!
You're missing a few very important steps in the lower unit service... You need to replace the seals on both the lower unit vent plug and the drain plug. They're only intended for one use. You can probably get away with reusing them once or twice, but they are a very common source of getting water in the lower unit because they are over tightened and don't properly reseat. Part No. 830749, the newer yellow ones, not the old-school blue fiber ones. You also need to lube the prop shaft every time you take the prop off with 2-4C teflon lube. Again, you can get away without for a while but if you never do, the prop and thrust washer will eventually seize on the shaft. You already experienced the thrust washer being stuck on because of no lube. Lastly, you also need to check that prop bore sleeve, you see it wiggling around @22:50. It's white plastic with 4 locking tabs that commonly break off. If it comes loose, the exhaust gasses will ventilate around the prop and cause you to lose a lot of performance. If it's loose or broken, needs to be replaced too. Part No. 8M0070256 for the standard 2.07:1 gear case; or 8M0054695 for the Command Thrust 2.38:1 gear case.
Thank you, I will try to do an update on my video.
Thanks for the additional information. I bought the kit and went ahead and got the plastic prop washer it was 3.00.
Where did you buy these parts? The "newer" yellow washers on Amazon are $22 for 6 (that's 3 changes for me so ok) -- I was sent the blue ones from Quicksilver and that's what I just put on. BUT I cannot find the white plastic piece (not that I need one, but I would like to have on hand. I have Command Thrust). Thanks for help in advance.
@@alanaho4915 Your local mercury dealer should have all those parts in stock. My experience is they are typically cheaper from the dealer than from Amazon, but YMMV.
@@brianpeter7139 thank you for your reply. I went ahead and ordered the yellow washers on Amazon. However the prop bore (white plastic) and a nut washer didn't look the same as to what I have. I may do the dealer contact for those. Appreciate it!
You are a telented human being.
I would recommend putting fresh grease on the shaft before reinstalling the prop… ✅
I have a 2018 115 ProXS Command Thrust.Four Stroke. My lower unit is Black?
That was helpful, thanks
Glad it helped
Hey Mike, nice walk through of the motor service.. Seems pretty straight forward. You probably saved quite a bit of money doing it yourself and knowing it's been done correctly is a plus 😉
Maybe some grease on the prop shaft will help with disassembly next time...just a thought 👍
Did you say you had vessel view installed on your motor? A video on how it works would be cool! keep up the great videos! Thanks
I do not have vessel view, I will service the outboard every year. I have a app that will remind me…lol
Hello. Is the first service at 20 or 100h. They told me I should do it at 20h. Thanks for the response.
Thanks man. Everything I needed to know. I appreciate your video and your time. You just saved me a couple 100.00 Thank you.
I have the exact same boat and outboard. The dealer wants $250 to do what you did for a hundred. I think you can guess what I’ll be doing. Thanks for the video.
Basspro is charging my buddy 400 for this😅
i just bought the same boat what pitch prop are you running
I’m running a 23 pitch prop …
What is the oil kit sku#?
What kind of camera do you use for doing those video ? Thanks, I'll do on my Princecraft 2022 115 Pro XS !
I use a couple of GoPro 9 cameras and my iPhone 13 max.
Thanks for this video. I'm gonna try it myself. I called my dealer and they wanna charge me 300 bucks to do this. Is that too much??
This cost me about $100 to do myself. It is not that difficult to do, and you do not need special tools. For me, it was worth the savings.
No link to the kit ?
Sorry, I didn’t do that.
Hi Mike, Can you share what model prop you are using?
Mercury marine Tempest Plus, 23 pitch
How fast does that motor push your boat?
48 mph. With just me in the boat.
@Screamineagle Bass Catcher that's good! I have a similar setup but I'm only getting 42.. I'm running a laser II 20 pitch prop but I need to make a change because I'm only getting up to about 5400 rpms... can you tell me what prop is working for you?
It’s a 23 pitch Mercury Marine Tempest Plus.
Hello. What is the difference between Mercury 115 PRO XS with a silver bottom and a black bottom?
Hmmm, I don’t know the answer to that question.
I think it’s just the year. I have a 2018 with the black lower unit. I personally like the black with the stainless prop.
The optional Command Thrust gearcase is silver. A little beefier and allows for larger props. By the way, per Mercury this motor wants 5.5 quarts in the crankcase (label on forward side of motor). Maybe that extra half quart resides in the filter after the oil is cycled through? Great video. Thanks.
@@trygveoye2604 Yes. I've seen a couple of other vids stating 6 quarts.
@@screamineaglebasscatcher8311if it’s a Pro XS and the leg is silver; they actually a 150 leg used on the Pro XS range.
Hey Mike, what prop are you running?
23 pitch.
If you use a deep well socket on the drain fitting to loosen, then put the hose on, you won't scratch the cowling. No oil comes out until past finger tight. All 4 of oil change vids I have watched, they use a wrench, and you can hear the wrench against the cowling on all of them. Also, I think your oil filter wrench would work much better the other way, I believe you are using it backwards.
Love this recommendation. I will start using a deep socket
Need a standard built socket for the lowers drain plugs, useing a regular screwdriver burrs the slot up on drain plug. This ends up ruining plug to where you eventually cant take it out or tighten it out..👍 I just changed mine out yesterday, & somebody used screwdriver & burd it up bad. I made me a socket to fit just right..
If you know so much, why you watchin the video bro?!
Yep its a specialty flat head thats a little thicker than standard tool.
Prop nut should be torqued to specs when finishing. Take a chance on damaging prop & shaft.
Always good to run it for bout 30 sec. to circulate oil into everything then let it set then check again. Add rest the way to full mark. Be sure an have water muffs goin to motor before running any outboard motor.
That your motor oil drain 1st?
Id take that Screaming Eagle Anniversary gold stripe bike when you get tired of it..😉😁
Need ya a filter socket for those that set sideways like these.
Great video & how to do . It wouldve cost ya bout $300 if you took to dealership.
Somebody with that nice of shop & boat, need to purchase a real drain pan.😉 Can see by all your toys, pretty sure you can afford it. Get ya scooter stool with work tray under it to hold all your tools n parts easy reach while already down. Oh..thought you useing a turkey tray was goin to be your drain pan..😆
WHAT!!??? You gotta mess with prop to change lowers oil!?🤨😳
What a P.O.S., these companies try their damdest to make it harder every year so you can work on your equipment, want you take it to dealer so they can ripp you off there also!🤬 Im goin back to Yamaha. Had nothing but constant repairs since I bought my Merc. Optimax, never again.
My understanding on that is it forces you to pull the prop once in a while to check the seals, and check for debris wrapped around the prop shaft. Otherwise, how often do you normally pull the prop to check for fouling or bad seals? He proved that by finding some fishing line behind the prop.
z8y10
#vun.fyi