This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things th-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
Great video sir. On the batteries you can get a small tool cart with a couple of shelves for transporting between the trailer and the job site. Then just run a cord to connect the chargers.
Good vid. Some suggestions / idea's. 1) Front area - Maybe remove doors & Build out as u wish. 2) Levels - Could be stored vertically. Maybe in a Pvc Pipe that Rotates 90 degrees on an Aluminum plate or Mounted to a Wood plate With a Big bolt in the Center that plate could rotate on. could also use pipe fittng instead of big bolt. 1" Galv. pipe fittings. etc. Put a rubber pad in bottom of tube so level is cushioned. 3) Battery area - Needs to be ventilated through to outside of trailer. i recommend Ventilated battery 🔋 access door on outside of trailer to access that area. Note: Battery area MUST Be ALL Plastic lined with Frp or similar. all edges sealed with silicone. Battery's Give off sulphuric acid fumes ( Extremely corrosive ) when charging or being used. That's what's going on in there. Metal reacts with the battery acid fumes. Hense floor corrosion etc. battery acid eats any metal, Not plastics. Remove battery & Clean compartment with baiing soda & warm water. scrub. Prime & paint compartment with rust oleum zinc oxide primer if aluminum , red oxide primer for steel. Paint with Black epoxy paint resistant to acids / chemicals. Line compartment with frp or plastic. seal edges with silicone. 4) Cords - i Have a Portable Cord Reel & Really like It. keeps cord very tidy. it has four outlets in center. I like the idea of a cord being able to be Reeled in automatically at the end of the day. 5) Congrats on the 1M Subs !!! 🎉 🎈
Kyle....suggestion for storing the Stabilla rod gear. Cut 3", 4" or 6" (whatever size is needed) Schedule 40 PVC cut to the length needed and attached to the trailer ceiling over the existing side shelves. Add a threaded plumbing clean-out fitting on the access end. Simple slide-out access. Good use of the ceiling space and your view of your sticker collection.
Throw those levels on top of your batter storage area in between the roof and the wood, then drop some spring loaded hinges on a 2 by 4 then but stopping blocks to prevent it from closing. We had the same problem and that was our solution. Works great
Great video, great trailer build out, I like your view points for what you think needs to change and what you think fits you best for your needs. “That miscellaneous storage area up front would be great for a first aid/trauma kit or work something out to have all your camera gear up top & lastly u could shift something’s around and have some sort of emergency wash station” but these are just some ideas do what you believe works best for you thanks for the amazing content.
Kyle, it looks like your trailer is the 8-1/2’ wide. Some ideas. Stabila level storage: Hang them on the ceiling width wise. In a similar fashion to a sunglasses / garage door opener holder in the top center consul of your truck. You could make the bracket as simple or complex as you want. That would keep your sticker wall intact. On the drivers side top part of your trailer, length wise. (The black metal piece.) You plate level could be mounted there. Battery charging station: You might have to run some conduit from the top of the metal work table to the upper cabinets. If you have bomber hinges mount the battery charges directly to the interior of the upper cabinet doors. Two to four charges per door. MC cable the power cords so they don’t get pinched when the doors are closed. A door for DeWalt, a door for Milwaukee, a door for Makita. In the upper cabinet driver’s side, wall mount the rest of your chargers Metabo, Paslode, etc. Depending on you current set up, you might want to add a 30 amp sub panel, two to four breakers, with the 20 amp outlets. Install at least two outlets with USB chargers. I hope this helps. Ps. I’m running electrical in my trailer right now, & invested a lot of hours layout & design.
You know what's fantastic about this? Is that you are having the same struggles I am and you asked this community and we're going to get some of the most phenomenal answers now!! :-)
5 gallon buckets ( you might have to cut down to fit your spot) You wrap cords around outside, and store other items inside. I also have my extension cords on a closet rack bracket inside my garage. I can store multiple cords on it. Some of my cords are also on the round orange cord holders. Those can stack easily and be put up out of the way.
Here what I can see but hard to judge depth and heights from a video. (1) I think there in a void (looks like) behind your custom made cabinets not sure that's a magnetic strip and/or can be removed and put level clips along that wall and in behind the cabinet (2) another void on top of that's same wood top above your drills ect. Maybe fasten all the levels to a board/rack then secure the whole the up there. Very nice how you have things set up,when I was working and set mine up (years ago) I kept changing things the more I tool I got (you definitely have way more of). Setting up the tool trailer is something I really like to do/see and the comments I use to get made it worth it! Just a thought good luck!
I used to help organize a Habitat for Humanity work trailer (tough to keep organized!). What I came up with for hoses and extension cords was to hang them on something like a clothes rod. I made up something special but I think you could use Ball Bungee Cords to loop in both the rod the item to be hung up. Thanks for all you videos, I've been watching since the Diresta shop build.
I used the large hinge rod above the ramp door a d a giant biner fro my heaviest/longest cords and also for my belt which has suspenders. The smaller cords were always in a big tool case so never gettimg snagged and tangled.
I have my levels sitting on the top shelf similar to the shelf on your passenger side. Up off the floor and secure. Just a thought. Thanks for all the content you share!
For battery chargers, I put 3 dewalt 20v on a 3/4” plywood strip and have a French cleat on it to hang on the large cleat walls I have in different areas. One thing I’d do different would be to include a power strip to plug them into on the plywood, that way there is only one cord to plug in where I take it to. For the levels, you could take some small cuts from pvc pipe that the levels fit into, then drill holes though one side of the pipe to get a Timber Lock screws through to attach them to a plywood corners off the back of your side bench wall, that way you don’t cover a lot of stickers permanently, and they are only covered when the levels are not in use. And for the built in area, I’d go ahead and remove it and chalk it up to lesson learned. Then move your bench like you want to, no reason too just deal with something you know isn’t what you like, and it would help improve your work experience. Love the builds.
I like the bench on the side. To have the ability to work with something long is important. You could put a slot mount for a vise on the side for repairing a tool, or working with a job site fixture. Consider building cube/shelf storage between the cabinets up front. You could build in chargers, provide storage for random supplies like electrical, plumbing, etc. Consider hanging your belts up on the wall in front of your festool shelves. I also build a false wall along one side for sheet goods which allows you to build the shelves in front of it. Then above that area, you could set tubes in place for your levels. Looks great. Love your channel. Eric
I put my big levels above my upper cubbies like the ones you have there. works good for me. My trailer probably stays clean for a week after I reorganize it. Awesome set up👍
Great video, always enjoy your tool trailer set up. For mine. Levels in PVC tubes with screw caps Mount all your chargers on a board and then clip the leads to a power pack and only have one lead lose and to plug in. I would have plastic labeled containers in pigeon holes for your overhead cabinet. For the leads and your toolbelt you could use spider tools cable straps and mounts which would be easy to clip more items on and the mounts are quite low profile. Keep up the good work kyle!
For the charger, make a tower of power like vgc construction made. Just mount it to the front. That would hide all the cables and keep them nice and neat.
We have a dewalt charging station that can charge 4 batteries at a time. You can mount it on the wall or just have it on your bench. It helps keep your charging more organized. You have a really nice setup
Great video. I think it’s a great idea to take a nice design and improve it. Regarding the level storage, try storing them in a 6 inch piece of PVC attached to the ceiling. Good luck. Keep the videos coming.
That is exactly what I do on the ceiling of my enclosed trailer I have two. One for levels and one for shovels, rakes, brooms, long handled tools . One thing I’d like to add though is to make sure that make sure that the end of the pvc pipe towards the front of the trailer should be lower then the back side. That way when you go to take off your levels don’t go sliding out of the pipe.
That works well & is similar to what I came to say: things on the ceiling are less likely to get jostled, knocked off, or damaged from bringing in other stuff. If you want open-back tubes, make them the length of the level and line up the open end just inside the back door. When you drive, the levels cannot go out the back (unless you're driving with the door open). I've also made twist lock caps for PVC pipe (could put some of those on the front-side... to pull the levels out from either end). If you do actually spring for legit ceiling clips, then that would look cleaner, and be less likely to be forgotten (will see if the clip is empty). More expensive, but hey, they're Stabilas right? Could put them anywhere: right over the side door, or just the one(s) you use most there... and the rest across from the side door (run front to back). Multiple options... depends on what you want. Hope you figure it out.
if there is no room on ceiling because lights are sideways. Turn lights on ceiling so they are front to back instead of left to right. Maybe Remove those Lights , taking up valuable ceiling storage space. Put Led Strips around perimeter of inside or where ever. Led Ftw. on battery consumption & Very Bright usually.
The way I store my drill/drivers at work is I made a 45 degree shelf and drilled like 3 2 1/2" holes to store the drills and then used the wall mount option on the chargers right next to them. I'm running a mix of Bosch and Milwaukee and it seems to work fine as I have less clutter on the workbenches. For the levels maybe screw together some 4 or 6 inch PVC pipe to the wall behind your drill storage.
First thanks for all the good videos and a quick thought on the level storage it looked like you have room for 6"-8" PVC next to the lights for ceiling tube type storage. Keep up the good work.
Long time watcher and first time commenter. I love the work you guys do and the attention to detail that you do on job sites and even in your trailer. As far as storage for the Stabila levels, have you thought about a swing down mount for them. Create frame and bracket that will hold all the levels and then mount it to the ceiling against the wall. When you arrive on a job site, unlatch the frame and have it swing down against the wall. When you are done for the day, all the levels have a secure place to be put back and can swing up and out of the way. They may block the light during transport and will be secured, but that just depends on how big you make the frame and where you mount it to the ceiling. Then you will not have to move or mess up any of the stickers on the wall. For the hoses and electrical cords, you could use that same method of hanging from the ceiling. Using the idea of a space saver hanger for clothes, but hang the different cords and hoses from it. It would be easy to get and put back hoses and cords, but then it would decrease the amount of room they would take up when not in use.
Great video Kyle. You could hang your levels off the ceiling above the bench close to the wall so you don't hit your head.You could mount a PVC pipe and slide them in from the end or build a Ling box with a door that folds down or up to access them. Your pretty creative, I'm sure you'll think of something.
"Out of sight, out of mind" is always the best! One thing for sure is that you'll end up with double or triple of everything Hahaha! I usually have my laborer and myself clean the trailer up after every job. It gets messy!
Looks good Kyle. Consider a metal grid from floor to ceiling for your hoses and cords. Yeah I could hang things at different levels all the way to the ceiling. For your levels you could make a rack on the ceiling?
Kyle, have you thought about putting solar panels on the roof to charge all your tool batteries? A good trailer is always improving. Nothing’s perfect. Appreciate your honesty. Keep inspiring us!
For storing hoses and cords, I have started using Velcro loops from Amazon. It takes less room on the hooks and it allows for more cords and hoses per hook. These also make is a very neat storage. They are Wrap-It storage straps.
For your chargers I think you can fit a few on the plywood behind the Milwaukee and Makita battery hangers that would be accessible and out of the way. If that area already has plans you could mount chargers up high in those upper cabinets. Maybe sideways so it's easier to get the batteries off from that height. It doesn't seem like you put tall items there so that's unused space that shouldn't get blocked and adding a plug strip in the cabinet would make a clean setup. A board mounted setup with your fastest and most used chargers that is hung in the trailer to be used there and in a job building would be a nice combo with the permanent mounted ones. For the light switch issue I've done a few trailer and box truck builds and the best thing I've done for lights is to add occupancy sensors on 12volt and 120volt lights. Add them after the switches so if you don't want the lights to come on they won't. But if you put them up by side door close to the centerline of the trailer they will pick up the motion when you approach either door if they're open. They come on instantly when you open a door. It's great and way safer/easier when your hands are full and you need the lights or would want to shut them off. You can set on time since the last motion to what you want. I tend to set the 12volt at a shorter time to avoid draining the battery if the trailer isn't hooked to a charging source. The 120volt can be set for longer if you are usually plugged in when you use them. It's really a nice setup and you don't know how you did without it once you have.. Plus it doesn't matter where your switches are anymore and the ceiling mounts never get blocked. Awesome trailer!
Designing shelves with a slope stops parts coming off while driving. Heavy extension cords are best stored on the driving axle of your truck or in the center of the trailer for weight balance.
If you had mounting clips or brackets for the levels you could pop rivet them to the black cove like a display. It's made with 0.30 or 0.40 aluminum sheet.....love the content Keep it up
If you have space. Try putting your levels above everything on the passenger side. That's where I stored all the long stuff in my old companies vans. I also used a lot of the velcro straps with the carabiners for my hoses, ropes, and cords. It seemed to help keep them out of the way
The crew I work with has their levels inside of the work table with the end of each level facing out the back of the trailer. We just put slots on top of the existing work bench so the levels could only fit in one spot and all fit side by side inside the table. This way when you open the trailer door you can choose whaterver size you want and just pull it straight out of the slot. Then we just put another layer of plywood on top for the table. Not sure if it would be worth the effort considering you already have everything built but still maybe someone who hasn't can use the idea.
Good setup. Hang some sewer pipes off the ceiling of the trailer to store your levels in and use the pipes to hang the leads, hoses, belts ect.. off them with stand-off brackets and a hook on the end of it. I would turn the light fitting 90 deg so they follow the length of the trailer and don’t get in the way. Maybe this works for you. Congratulations on the 1,000,000 +. Jim Sydney Australia 🇦🇺.
Hey mate, in regards to the levels, pull the bench out about 6 inches and put in 3 little cubbies that sit against the back wall. This will also give you more bench space and saw movement. The downside is that you'll have to load them with the ramp down, but I don't think that's a bad compromise. Also aren't covering stickers
Just one thing I want to mention as far as fasteners and other heavy stuff. I always try and store the densest stuff (metal usually) at around thigh to waist height cuts down on having to bend over or squat to pick up your heaviest items, save your knees and back. Just gotta make sure your shelves are strong enough.
Yeah for sure just thinking because there's no "high storage" due to the stickers might be able to get away with. Great point though dynamic weight is way different.
Kyle, I'm a fan of ceiling hangers. Just have a 1/2" thick plywood and fasten it to the ceiling and then fix the chargers upside down to it, and for the levels, make some 1/4" self retractable plywood hooks also attached to the plywood board, and for the tool belts too. That way you get to keep the stickers on the wall! As for the existing cabinet I would replace the doors on the base with double drawers or sliding open shelves and on the upper cabinet, replace the side opening doors with top opening doors that stay open with hydraulic studs (use the same doors, just relocate the hinges and the latches. Also, think of replacing the surface mount light fixtures with some flat LED ones. Hope it serve for improvement inspiration.
Hi Kyle! If you turn the lights on the ceiling by 90 degrees, about a third of the width in two rows. You could hang the spirit levels on hooks, in the left third. Then you don’t cover the stickers on the wall.
Kyle, someone have said this BUT at the end of the video go back to the place you where standing and turn around. Look up at the top of where your drills are and the are space between the roof and the cabinet is an empty that looks just the size for the levels. You can put some type of fold down latch to keep them from sliding out that is hinged so you can move them to get the levels out.
As a a carpenter we kept our levels in a gun rack in the back window. The contractors would put levels in pvc pipe either on a headache rack on nose of trailer or on cargo rack.
That trailer looks great. I have a detached oversized 2 car garage with 3 cars thanks to a lift. So things are tight with all the tool cabinets and boxes, jacks and other paraphernalia . After about 5 years I had it was sorted out as good as it could get for the space. Another 6 six years later still doing little tweaks now and then. But when you have to work with those tools as part of your job, the job takes priority. You will get there. But I am certain that doubling the size of your trailer will increase your flexibility. . 😂
I've used rubber buckle straps to secure mine. If I had my trailer back, I'd put a set (or something similar) on the ceiling. One had to hold the level set to the ceiling and 1 hand to work the straps which should be placed at 1/4 of the length of the level from each end. Works like a champ!
Kyle, great video btw, you can use 4 inch s&d pipe mounted on the walls for the levels. For misculanious items, a DeWalt 21 inch tool box makes a nice affordable way to pack stuff too. some shelves could be on sliding tracks as well. The chargers could be permanently mounted on a vertical board on the wall with a switched power tap, just turn on the charger bank, charge em up, then hit the switch to turn off the chargers and it's done. No need to plug/ unplug the chargers every time you need them. I do this on my garage and it works great! Also, plastic pipe hanger straps with the pre-drilled holes has many useful applications for hanging tools or anything you can think of. You can get very creative with it and accomplish much at minimal expense.
Take the battery chargers and mount them upside down underneath the top front “hide all” cabenits. They can be run off a big power strip, stay plugged in with just one cord and be easily accessed and still out of the way Levels- definitely some sort of locking hook system on the roof. It could be Low profile, out the way, and secure but easy to grab.
Have you thought about putting your levels on top of the cabinet/bin storage area on the opposite wall of the trailer? It looks like there would be enough room if an extension was put on the shorter (front) cabinet to match the depth of the rear cabinet. Mike
Time to either start over with a bigger trailer, or add another trailer for the bulky items, cords, etc. Can tell you've outgrown it although it's a great setup.
Maybe take one of those built-in top bays and make a holder for the chargers with space to hide cords behind them. A strip for plugging them in. They would have a permanent place out of the way and easily used when needed. Just an idea. Great video. Keep up the good work. 👍
1-Clear bins for the front cabinets. 2-Levels in same area over stickers. Bummer I know, but it’s about function 3-Hang chargers in the front and run power to them from the cabinet below. Hoses and cords are always a problem. Good luck with that. I always keep my bags in the back seat of my truck so I’m at a loss there also.
Would you miss 4 inches of floor space? Pull your packout shelves (drivers side of trailer) 4 inches from the wall into the floor area and make long horizontal “shelves” suited to each length of level you have in the new void behind the packout shelves, accessible through the back door. Levels would be safe from harm, secure for transit and easily accessible. My dad always stored long leads and hoses on old wheel rims bolted to the wall. Something similar could work for your trailer or make some from plywood. Love the videos. Always excited to see the next Barndominium video. Pete
Looks like there may be room for some of the levels on top of the built ins in the passenger side wall. I’d build split shelving in the upper front cabinets like you had said, probably half the depth of the cabinets.
Who is getting all those fancy tools. Can I say I definitely need some tools I got so many projects to get done with my house and just can’t all ways afford the best tools. Been a loyal follower since 2017 I look forward to you videos every week. Keep it up Boys.
Okay, so the levels should go on the sticker wall at the front of the trailer, above the metal cabinets. You can use some acrylic wall shelves/ledges to support the levels and not cover any of your stickers. 🤙🏼
@RR Buildings Hey Kyle. I use pvc pipe for my levels. I have a few longer pipes with caps for the longer levels and shorter pipes affixed to the floor like an umbrella stand for the shorter levels. The longer pipes are hung off the ceiling.
I noticed some space on top of the curb side shelf, why not store the levels up there with a simple strap too secure them? Keep up the great work and God bless you guys.
For the chargers what about a two or 3 shelf build that has the chargers on it and the cords hidden in the back zip tied nicely with a surge protector so to plug in all the chargers its just one simple plug. You could attach it to the desk top at the front part of the trailer or leave it loose so you can set it in one of the cabinets down below when not in use. For those top cabinets in the front maybe mount hooks on the insides of the doors for small packages of things like AA Batteries, small screws, etc items that when you go to the store are hanging in the display. Then for the inside of those cabinets shallow selves so that way the doors close nicely but you have a better way to display the things that just kind of get thrown up there. It may not be organized but this way you can just open the door and see it all instead of digging around for things. Just some thoughts use if you want. I like the trailer personally but I get wanting to tweak a few things here and there.
What about a hinged rack that hangs down in front of your sticker wall for the stabila levels. Then it swivels up against the ceiling. It doesn’t need to hang down too far and it won’t block much of the lights. It would be against the ceiling for travel or not using and then just drop it down to grab them.
I am also very protective of my Stabila levels when i did my build out i did a small slot to slid them in directly under my bench allong the long wall, the issue with that is the bug door must be opened to get them out. Verticle placement with wall clips is my hope on my next build out. For you my first thought would be to mount pvc to the ceiling and slide them in from the back. Or mount clips with a safety strap on the ceiling. Good luck and congratulations on the 1 mil subs.
Hang levels from ceiling using "L" brackets w/ bungie cord. Mount chargers on 3/4 ply wood, front wall above table top hinged to fold down and show stickers.
Have you thought about mounting your drills and impacts under your existing metal cabinets? You could also mount batteries there and make it into a charging station. Would free up the current area for more packout storage.
I don't know if you have enough room above the shelf on the very back wall the one that you don't like to maybe have a shelf built to store all of your levels in the order that you use them. I love how organized your trailer is it looks a million times better than the ones that I have seen and been in you have everything right where you want it and in the order that you use a certain tool. 👍
For your chargers you can mount them upside down under the front upper cabinet. And use power strips so all the cords are tucked underneath and you only have 1 or 2 power strip cords going down to the outlets in the front
A level storage suggestion. At the end of your video, you had your back to the passenger side of the trailer. You have all that space at the top of your cabinets and the ceiling of your trailer. You might have to lower your cabinets a few inches but you look to have plenty of space
Kyle . If it was me , what if you took the front top cabinet and mount all batteries up underneath and put the chargers on the wall under them . put a 3/4 ply wood on top off the lower cabinet making it your work table / bench. and then the existing table / bench is where I would secure all the levels . and maybe make some more storage for more pack outs / or custom drawers . you trailer is awesome your saying it just needs a little tweaking in my opinion based on your video. ??? Keep up the great work !
Kyle, congrats on 1 Mill, for storage, I would take the bench on the left side, raise it 6”, and run tunnels underneath for the levels. That front catch all area, install your battery charging station, cords, hoses go on the inside of the rear doors on hooks. Problem solved.
I would build a charging shelf under the front upper cabinets! Nice to take them home on the weekend, until that Monday you forget to bring them back! Leave the batteries in the trailer and charging! Put the cords on the back of the upper cabinets in a little soffit with a long power strip to plug them into, cords and power strip would be hidden from sight and the batteries would be on job with tools!
I have an idea for levels. Take tool belt hangers down. Build box on bottom of existing wall where tool belts were. Add 2 inch foam pad in bottom of box. Install clips on wall for levels to lock into. Tool belts are usually 1st thing off of trailer.. Get 2 trays 1 for each belt and stack in corner at base of work bench in nose of trailer or other suitable location on floor
1Mill subs! Sounds like a new trailer wouldn't be out of the realm of possibilities. Not saying get rid of this one. Maybe just let Greg pull this one. 🤔 Your vids are awesome too watch because your at that 2nd or 3rd level that everyone inspires to be at in just about everything you do. Great work, great work ethic, = awesome output. I want one of your buildings and would pay much more for one built by you. I'm going to build a post frame, but I know it's going to be hard because whoever I have build it is not going to be as detailed and efficient as you would be. Most people just don't care or take as much pride in their work like you and Greg.
For your shorter levels. You probably don't have any that are more than 1 1/2" thick. Create a grid on the workbench currently underneath the levels. Give each a framed out home. Use a piece of 3/4" to cover, hinge at the back, maybe use a couple of compression rods to hold it open. That way, you get to keep the work area (minus 2" of height) and all of the short levels are accessible. Easiest fix for the long Stabilas is a section of PVC (4" or 6") mounted at the corner of the roof. Cheers - love the channel ...
For the levels what about mounting long pieces of PVC to the ceiling in the corner.. then just get a twist cap for the end. Can slide them in and out easily
While it may require some work, reaching out and finding replacements for the stickers might help a lot. At least for the ones that would be covered up. Then you can place the new one in a better spot. Those levels could be hung along the ceiling next to the wall above the shelving that does not go all the way up. Perhaps a series of strong magnets to avoid putting holes in the roof. And by hung I mean the holder for the levels, that way they can still have some protection.
I would move the battery/impact guns to the front of the trailer and just extend the shelves up to the ceiling on the right side to store your tool belts, levels, ext cords and such. You could modify the built-ins up front or re-build but i would modify it to fit your needs. That stainless table top in much more useable than a plywood top for it durability.
Big wire extensions go into frame drum cable winders which keeps everything up and out of the dirt and it's faster to wind up. When people manually coil up an extension they are often adding a kink to it and eventually the strands break
Kyle, You should definitely do a 1million subscriber special with a brand new trailer buildout and give the old one away as part of the tool package giveaway! Then you can customize your trailer exactly as you want it.
Hi Kyle I’ve watched your video’s and have always been impressed with your craftsmanship and attention to details. I’ve been accused of being to picky in my building. “ don’t worry about it it doesn’t have to be that close “ you ever thought of auctioning off your trailer on your channel? I’d bet you would get a pretty penny for it just because it was yours. Someone would love to own that trailer just because it was yours 👍🏽Then you could build your dream trailer 😊😊
I love your trailer, but here are my suggestions. The top "factory" cabinets are awkward. Why not turn them into personal storage space since you both work out of the trailer. Put in dividers which wouldn't be all that hard to do. You have one, Greg has one then there is one for shared items like maybe lunch supplies or a coffee maker or small microwave. For the levels, those are worth protecting. I see some open space behind the cabinet at the rear of the trailer. Could possibly utilize that for the levels. Other option would be to build a false wall of sorts on the work bench. Wouldn't take up much of the bench space but would give you secure storage for your levels. Easy access to them from the curb door. The rest of the wall could be used for hanging things, maybe add some pegboard or a rack system. Both the factory bench and the one you built have so much potential. Need to add a vice. Maybe turn one into a charging station and maintenance area for your tools and have the other one set up to work from when you need to build something. One thing I would do though, and it kills me because I love the look of the wood, is to paint all the wood with a roll on bed liner material. it would add durability to the wood and give a tougher finish than paint. I love your set up though and really it's awesome as it is.
This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things th-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
Great video sir. On the batteries you can get a small tool cart with a couple of shelves for transporting between the trailer and the job site. Then just run a cord to connect the chargers.
Hanging drills is my favorite part! Smart... Cover the stickers... it's about the journey!
Good vid. Some suggestions / idea's.
1) Front area - Maybe remove doors & Build out as u wish.
2) Levels - Could be stored vertically. Maybe in a Pvc Pipe that Rotates 90 degrees on an Aluminum plate or Mounted to a Wood plate With a Big bolt in the Center that plate could rotate on. could also use pipe fittng instead of big bolt. 1" Galv. pipe fittings. etc. Put a rubber pad in bottom of tube so level is cushioned.
3) Battery area - Needs to be ventilated through to outside of trailer. i recommend Ventilated battery 🔋 access door on outside of trailer to access that area. Note: Battery area MUST Be ALL Plastic lined with Frp or similar. all edges sealed with silicone. Battery's Give off sulphuric acid fumes ( Extremely corrosive ) when charging or being used. That's what's going on in there. Metal reacts with the battery acid fumes. Hense floor corrosion etc. battery acid eats any metal, Not plastics. Remove battery & Clean compartment with baiing soda & warm water. scrub. Prime & paint compartment with rust oleum zinc oxide primer if aluminum , red oxide primer for steel.
Paint with Black epoxy paint resistant to acids / chemicals.
Line compartment with frp or plastic. seal edges with silicone.
4) Cords - i Have a Portable Cord Reel & Really like It. keeps cord very tidy. it has four outlets in center. I like the idea of a cord being able to be Reeled in automatically at the end of the day.
5) Congrats on the 1M Subs !!! 🎉 🎈
Kyle....suggestion for storing the Stabilla rod gear. Cut 3", 4" or 6" (whatever size is needed) Schedule 40 PVC cut to the length needed and attached to the trailer ceiling over the existing side shelves. Add a threaded plumbing clean-out fitting on the access end. Simple slide-out access. Good use of the ceiling space and your view of your sticker collection.
Throw those levels on top of your batter storage area in between the roof and the wood, then drop some spring loaded hinges on a 2 by 4 then but stopping blocks to prevent it from closing.
We had the same problem and that was our solution. Works great
Great video, great trailer build out, I like your view points for what you think needs to change and what you think fits you best for your needs. “That miscellaneous storage area up front would be great for a first aid/trauma kit or work something out to have all your camera gear up top & lastly u could shift something’s around and have some sort of emergency wash station” but these are just some ideas do what you believe works best for you thanks for the amazing content.
Those older plastic water hose reels with the side handle work amazing for air hoses. We got one in the back of our roofing van holds 5 hoses.
Kyle, it looks like your trailer is the 8-1/2’ wide.
Some ideas.
Stabila level storage:
Hang them on the ceiling width wise. In a similar fashion to a sunglasses / garage door opener holder in the top center consul of your truck. You could make the bracket as simple or complex as you want.
That would keep your sticker wall intact.
On the drivers side top part of your trailer, length wise. (The black metal piece.) You plate level could be mounted there.
Battery charging station:
You might have to run some conduit from the top of the metal work table to the upper cabinets. If you have bomber hinges mount the battery charges directly to the interior of the upper cabinet doors. Two to four charges per door. MC cable the power cords so they don’t get pinched when the doors are closed. A door for DeWalt, a door for Milwaukee, a door for Makita.
In the upper cabinet driver’s side, wall mount the rest of your chargers Metabo, Paslode, etc. Depending on you current set up, you might want to add a 30 amp sub panel, two to four breakers, with the 20 amp outlets. Install at least two outlets with USB chargers.
I hope this helps.
Ps. I’m running electrical in my trailer right now, & invested a lot of hours layout & design.
You know what's fantastic about this? Is that you are having the same struggles I am and you asked this community and we're going to get some of the most phenomenal answers now!! :-)
5 gallon buckets ( you might have to cut down to fit your spot) You wrap cords around outside, and store other items inside. I also have my extension cords on a closet rack bracket inside my garage. I can store multiple cords on it. Some of my cords are also on the round orange cord holders. Those can stack easily and be put up out of the way.
Here what I can see but hard to judge depth and heights from a video.
(1) I think there in a void (looks like) behind your custom made cabinets not sure that's a magnetic strip and/or can be removed and put level clips along that wall and in behind the cabinet
(2) another void on top of that's same wood top above your drills ect. Maybe fasten all the levels to a board/rack then secure the whole the up there.
Very nice how you have things set up,when I was working and set mine up (years ago) I kept changing things the more I tool I got (you definitely have way more of). Setting up the tool trailer is something I really like to do/see and the comments I use to get made it worth it!
Just a thought good luck!
I used to help organize a Habitat for Humanity work trailer (tough to keep organized!). What I came up with for hoses and extension cords was to hang them on something like a clothes rod. I made up something special but I think you could use Ball Bungee Cords to loop in both the rod the item to be hung up. Thanks for all you videos, I've been watching since the Diresta shop build.
I used the large hinge rod above the ramp door a d a giant biner fro my heaviest/longest cords and also for my belt which has suspenders. The smaller cords were always in a big tool case so never gettimg snagged and tangled.
I have my levels sitting on the top shelf similar to the shelf on your passenger side. Up off the floor and secure. Just a thought. Thanks for all the content you share!
For battery chargers, I put 3 dewalt 20v on a 3/4” plywood strip and have a French cleat on it to hang on the large cleat walls I have in different areas. One thing I’d do different would be to include a power strip to plug them into on the plywood, that way there is only one cord to plug in where I take it to.
For the levels, you could take some small cuts from pvc pipe that the levels fit into, then drill holes though one side of the pipe to get a Timber Lock screws through to attach them to a plywood corners off the back of your side bench wall, that way you don’t cover a lot of stickers permanently, and they are only covered when the levels are not in use.
And for the built in area, I’d go ahead and remove it and chalk it up to lesson learned. Then move your bench like you want to, no reason too just deal with something you know isn’t what you like, and it would help improve your work experience.
Love the builds.
I like the bench on the side. To have the ability to work with something long is important. You could put a slot mount for a vise on the side for repairing a tool, or working with a job site fixture. Consider building cube/shelf storage between the cabinets up front. You could build in chargers, provide storage for random supplies like electrical, plumbing, etc. Consider hanging your belts up on the wall in front of your festool shelves. I also build a false wall along one side for sheet goods which allows you to build the shelves in front of it. Then above that area, you could set tubes in place for your levels. Looks great. Love your channel.
Eric
I put my big levels above my upper cubbies like the ones you have there. works good for me. My trailer probably stays clean for a week after I reorganize it. Awesome set up👍
Love these videos. I’ve stored levels in a 6 inch pipe fastened to the ceiling or a 12 inch pipe cut in half and hung from the ceiling
Great video, always enjoy your tool trailer set up.
For mine.
Levels in PVC tubes with screw caps
Mount all your chargers on a board and then clip the leads to a power pack and only have one lead lose and to plug in.
I would have plastic labeled containers in pigeon holes for your overhead cabinet.
For the leads and your toolbelt you could use spider tools cable straps and mounts which would be easy to clip more items on and the mounts are quite low profile.
Keep up the good work kyle!
For the charger, make a tower of power like vgc construction made. Just mount it to the front. That would hide all the cables and keep them nice and neat.
We have a dewalt charging station that can charge 4 batteries at a time. You can mount it on the wall or just have it on your bench. It helps keep your charging more organized. You have a really nice setup
Great video. I think it’s a great idea to take a nice design and improve it. Regarding the level storage, try storing them in a 6 inch piece of PVC attached to the ceiling. Good luck. Keep the videos coming.
That is exactly what I do on the ceiling of my enclosed trailer I have two. One for levels and one for shovels, rakes, brooms, long handled tools . One thing I’d like to add though is to make sure that make sure that the end of the pvc pipe towards the front of the trailer should be lower then the back side. That way when you go to take off your levels don’t go sliding out of the pipe.
Good idea I would put a cap on one end and clean out plug on the other end to keep the levels from sliding out 🙂
I scrolled to the comments to say this. PVC or steel tubes are the way-to-go when storing levels, rakes, shovels, etc.
That works well & is similar to what I came to say: things on the ceiling are less likely to get jostled, knocked off, or damaged from bringing in other stuff.
If you want open-back tubes, make them the length of the level and line up the open end just inside the back door. When you drive, the levels cannot go out the back (unless you're driving with the door open). I've also made twist lock caps for PVC pipe (could put some of those on the front-side... to pull the levels out from either end).
If you do actually spring for legit ceiling clips, then that would look cleaner, and be less likely to be forgotten (will see if the clip is empty). More expensive, but hey, they're Stabilas right? Could put them anywhere: right over the side door, or just the one(s) you use most there... and the rest across from the side door (run front to back). Multiple options... depends on what you want.
Hope you figure it out.
if there is no room on ceiling because lights are sideways. Turn lights on ceiling so they are front to back instead of left to right.
Maybe Remove those Lights , taking up valuable ceiling storage space. Put Led Strips around perimeter of inside or where ever.
Led Ftw. on battery consumption & Very Bright usually.
The way I store my drill/drivers at work is I made a 45 degree shelf and drilled like 3 2 1/2" holes to store the drills and then used the wall mount option on the chargers right next to them. I'm running a mix of Bosch and Milwaukee and it seems to work fine as I have less clutter on the workbenches.
For the levels maybe screw together some 4 or 6 inch PVC pipe to the wall behind your drill storage.
First thanks for all the good videos and a quick thought on the level storage it looked like you have room for 6"-8" PVC next to the lights for ceiling tube type storage. Keep up the good work.
Long time watcher and first time commenter. I love the work you guys do and the attention to detail that you do on job sites and even in your trailer. As far as storage for the Stabila levels, have you thought about a swing down mount for them. Create frame and bracket that will hold all the levels and then mount it to the ceiling against the wall. When you arrive on a job site, unlatch the frame and have it swing down against the wall. When you are done for the day, all the levels have a secure place to be put back and can swing up and out of the way. They may block the light during transport and will be secured, but that just depends on how big you make the frame and where you mount it to the ceiling. Then you will not have to move or mess up any of the stickers on the wall.
For the hoses and electrical cords, you could use that same method of hanging from the ceiling. Using the idea of a space saver hanger for clothes, but hang the different cords and hoses from it. It would be easy to get and put back hoses and cords, but then it would decrease the amount of room they would take up when not in use.
Great video Kyle.
You could hang your levels off the ceiling above the bench close to the wall so you don't hit your head.You could mount a PVC pipe and slide them in from the end or build a Ling box with a door that folds down or up to access them. Your pretty creative, I'm sure you'll think of something.
PVC idea is great, you can also add more stickers to the outside of the PVC.
"Out of sight, out of mind" is always the best! One thing for sure is that you'll end up with double or triple of everything
Hahaha! I usually have my laborer and myself clean the trailer up after every job. It gets messy!
Looks good Kyle. Consider a metal grid from floor to ceiling for your hoses and cords. Yeah I could hang things at different levels all the way to the ceiling. For your levels you could make a rack on the ceiling?
Kyle, have you thought about putting solar panels on the roof to charge all your tool batteries?
A good trailer is always improving. Nothing’s perfect.
Appreciate your honesty.
Keep inspiring us!
I'm here in Wisconsin watching my favorite TH-camr. RR Buildings 1 million plus subscribers.
The best time to clean out and reorganize is on a rainy day. Great job
For storing hoses and cords, I have started using Velcro loops from Amazon. It takes less room on the hooks and it allows for more cords and hoses per hook. These also make is a very neat storage. They are Wrap-It storage straps.
I started doing that too there are some great straps with a carabineer built in available at Home Depot few bucks a piece.
i use double sided vecro off of a roll and cut to the length i want....attach with washer anywhere including the trailer studs/rafters
For your chargers I think you can fit a few on the plywood behind the Milwaukee and Makita battery hangers that would be accessible and out of the way. If that area already has plans you could mount chargers up high in those upper cabinets. Maybe sideways so it's easier to get the batteries off from that height. It doesn't seem like you put tall items there so that's unused space that shouldn't get blocked and adding a plug strip in the cabinet would make a clean setup. A board mounted setup with your fastest and most used chargers that is hung in the trailer to be used there and in a job building would be a nice combo with the permanent mounted ones.
For the light switch issue I've done a few trailer and box truck builds and the best thing I've done for lights is to add occupancy sensors on 12volt and 120volt lights. Add them after the switches so if you don't want the lights to come on they won't. But if you put them up by side door close to the centerline of the trailer they will pick up the motion when you approach either door if they're open. They come on instantly when you open a door. It's great and way safer/easier when your hands are full and you need the lights or would want to shut them off. You can set on time since the last motion to what you want. I tend to set the 12volt at a shorter time to avoid draining the battery if the trailer isn't hooked to a charging source. The 120volt can be set for longer if you are usually plugged in when you use them. It's really a nice setup and you don't know how you did without it once you have.. Plus it doesn't matter where your switches are anymore and the ceiling mounts never get blocked. Awesome trailer!
Designing shelves with a slope stops parts coming off while driving.
Heavy extension cords are best stored on the driving axle of your truck or in the center of the trailer for weight balance.
If you had mounting clips or brackets for the levels you could pop rivet them to the black cove like a display. It's made with 0.30 or 0.40 aluminum sheet.....love the content Keep it up
If you have space. Try putting your levels above everything on the passenger side. That's where I stored all the long stuff in my old companies vans. I also used a lot of the velcro straps with the carabiners for my hoses, ropes, and cords. It seemed to help keep them out of the way
Living with a tool trailer for some months is about the only way to get it just as you want it. Great video.
The crew I work with has their levels inside of the work table with the end of each level facing out the back of the trailer. We just put slots on top of the existing work bench so the levels could only fit in one spot and all fit side by side inside the table. This way when you open the trailer door you can choose whaterver size you want and just pull it straight out of the slot. Then we just put another layer of plywood on top for the table. Not sure if it would be worth the effort considering you already have everything built but still maybe someone who hasn't can use the idea.
Good setup. Hang some sewer pipes off the ceiling of the trailer to store your levels in and use the pipes to hang the leads, hoses, belts ect.. off them with stand-off brackets and a hook on the end of it. I would turn the light fitting 90 deg so they follow the length of the trailer and don’t get in the way. Maybe this works for you. Congratulations on the 1,000,000 +. Jim Sydney Australia 🇦🇺.
Hey mate, in regards to the levels, pull the bench out about 6 inches and put in 3 little cubbies that sit against the back wall. This will also give you more bench space and saw movement. The downside is that you'll have to load them with the ramp down, but I don't think that's a bad compromise. Also aren't covering stickers
Just one thing I want to mention as far as fasteners and other heavy stuff. I always try and store the densest stuff (metal usually) at around thigh to waist height cuts down on having to bend over or squat to pick up your heaviest items, save your knees and back. Just gotta make sure your shelves are strong enough.
I was thinking that too as stuff gets heavier during a long day but in a trailer you do want the heaviest items low for good CG
Yeah for sure just thinking because there's no "high storage" due to the stickers might be able to get away with. Great point though dynamic weight is way different.
Levels over stickers. You’ll still see the stickers and have the levels stored. Either a bracket or long tray for them.
Congrats on 1mil Kyle!
Kyle, I'm a fan of ceiling hangers. Just have a 1/2" thick plywood and fasten it to the ceiling and then fix the chargers upside down to it, and for the levels, make some 1/4" self retractable plywood hooks also attached to the plywood board, and for the tool belts too. That way you get to keep the stickers on the wall! As for the existing cabinet I would replace the doors on the base with double drawers or sliding open shelves and on the upper cabinet, replace the side opening doors with top opening doors that stay open with hydraulic studs (use the same doors, just relocate the hinges and the latches. Also, think of replacing the surface mount light fixtures with some flat LED ones. Hope it serve for improvement inspiration.
Hi Kyle! If you turn the lights on the ceiling by 90 degrees, about a third of the width in two rows. You could hang the spirit levels on hooks, in the left third. Then you don’t cover the stickers on the wall.
Great video, love how you talk from experience, and love how clean your trailer.
Kyle, someone have said this BUT at the end of the video go back to the place you where standing and turn around. Look up at the top of where your drills are and the are space between the roof and the cabinet is an empty that looks just the size for the levels. You can put some type of fold down latch to keep them from sliding out that is hinged so you can move them to get the levels out.
Just an idea but you could build the top of your work surface up high enough to store the levels under the new work surface. great looking trailer!
As a a carpenter we kept our levels in a gun rack in the back window. The contractors would put levels in pvc pipe either on a headache rack on nose of trailer or on cargo rack.
That trailer looks great. I have a detached oversized 2 car garage with 3 cars thanks to a lift. So things are tight with all the tool cabinets and boxes, jacks and other paraphernalia . After about 5 years I had it was sorted out as good as it could get for the space. Another 6 six years later still doing little tweaks now and then. But when you have to work with those tools as part of your job, the job takes priority. You will get there. But I am certain that doubling the size of your trailer will increase your flexibility. . 😂
I've used rubber buckle straps to secure mine. If I had my trailer back, I'd put a set (or something similar) on the ceiling. One had to hold the level set to the ceiling and 1 hand to work the straps which should be placed at 1/4 of the length of the level from each end. Works like a champ!
Kyle, great video btw, you can use 4 inch s&d pipe mounted on the walls for the levels. For misculanious items, a DeWalt 21 inch tool box makes a nice affordable way to pack stuff too. some shelves could be on sliding tracks as well.
The chargers could be permanently mounted on a vertical board on the wall with a switched power tap, just turn on the charger bank, charge em up, then hit the switch to turn off the chargers and it's done. No need to plug/ unplug the chargers every time you need them. I do this on my garage and it works great!
Also, plastic pipe hanger straps with the pre-drilled holes has many useful applications for hanging tools or anything you can think of. You can get very creative with it and accomplish much at minimal expense.
Take the battery chargers and mount them upside down underneath the top front “hide all” cabenits. They can be run off a big power strip, stay plugged in with just one cord and be easily accessed and still out of the way
Levels- definitely some sort of locking hook system on the roof. It could be Low profile, out the way, and secure but easy to grab.
Look at that "1M" (subscribers). BOOM! Congrats.
Have you thought about putting your levels on top of the cabinet/bin storage area on the opposite wall of the trailer? It looks like there would be enough room if an extension was put on the shorter (front) cabinet to match the depth of the rear cabinet.
Mike
Time to either start over with a bigger trailer, or add another trailer for the bulky items, cords, etc. Can tell you've outgrown it although it's a great setup.
Congratulations on 1 million. Trailer looking nice. Protect the levels.
Maybe take one of those built-in top bays and make a holder for the chargers with space to hide cords behind them. A strip for plugging them in. They would have a permanent place out of the way and easily used when needed. Just an idea.
Great video. Keep up the good work. 👍
1-Clear bins for the front cabinets.
2-Levels in same area over stickers.
Bummer I know, but it’s about function
3-Hang chargers in the front and run power to them from the cabinet below.
Hoses and cords are always a problem. Good luck with that.
I always keep my bags in the back seat of my truck so I’m at a loss there also.
Would you miss 4 inches of floor space? Pull your packout shelves (drivers side of trailer) 4 inches from the wall into the floor area and make long horizontal “shelves” suited to each length of level you have in the new void behind the packout shelves, accessible through the back door. Levels would be safe from harm, secure for transit and easily accessible. My dad always stored long leads and hoses on old wheel rims bolted to the wall. Something similar could work for your trailer or make some from plywood.
Love the videos. Always excited to see the next Barndominium video.
Pete
Congratulations 👏 Appreciate your hard work putting these videos together and sharing your experience. Cheers!
Thanks Kyle for the tour. 👍😁
Looks like there may be room for some of the levels on top of the built ins in the passenger side wall. I’d build split shelving in the upper front cabinets like you had said, probably half the depth of the cabinets.
Who is getting all those fancy tools. Can I say I definitely need some tools I got so many projects to get done with my house and just can’t all ways afford the best tools. Been a loyal follower since 2017 I look forward to you videos every week. Keep it up Boys.
Okay, so the levels should go on the sticker wall at the front of the trailer, above the metal cabinets. You can use some acrylic wall shelves/ledges to support the levels and not cover any of your stickers. 🤙🏼
@RR Buildings Hey Kyle. I use pvc pipe for my levels. I have a few longer pipes with caps for the longer levels and shorter pipes affixed to the floor like an umbrella stand for the shorter levels. The longer pipes are hung off the ceiling.
I noticed some space on top of the curb side shelf, why not store the levels up there with a simple strap too secure them?
Keep up the great work and God bless you guys.
For the chargers what about a two or 3 shelf build that has the chargers on it and the cords hidden in the back zip tied nicely with a surge protector so to plug in all the chargers its just one simple plug. You could attach it to the desk top at the front part of the trailer or leave it loose so you can set it in one of the cabinets down below when not in use. For those top cabinets in the front maybe mount hooks on the insides of the doors for small packages of things like AA Batteries, small screws, etc items that when you go to the store are hanging in the display. Then for the inside of those cabinets shallow selves so that way the doors close nicely but you have a better way to display the things that just kind of get thrown up there. It may not be organized but this way you can just open the door and see it all instead of digging around for things. Just some thoughts use if you want. I like the trailer personally but I get wanting to tweak a few things here and there.
What about a hinged rack that hangs down in front of your sticker wall for the stabila levels. Then it swivels up against the ceiling. It doesn’t need to hang down too far and it won’t block much of the lights. It would be against the ceiling for travel or not using and then just drop it down to grab them.
I am also very protective of my Stabila levels when i did my build out i did a small slot to slid them in directly under my bench allong the long wall, the issue with that is the bug door must be opened to get them out. Verticle placement with wall clips is my hope on my next build out. For you my first thought would be to mount pvc to the ceiling and slide them in from the back. Or mount clips with a safety strap on the ceiling. Good luck and congratulations on the 1 mil subs.
Hang levels from ceiling using "L" brackets w/ bungie cord.
Mount chargers on 3/4 ply wood, front wall above table top hinged to fold down and show stickers.
Right behind you on the closing shot - space on top of the wood shelves for long levels!
Have you thought about mounting your drills and impacts under your existing metal cabinets? You could also mount batteries there and make it into a charging station. Would free up the current area for more packout storage.
I don't know if you have enough room above the shelf on the very back wall the one that you don't like to maybe have a shelf built to store all of your levels in the order that you use them. I love how organized your trailer is it looks a million times better than the ones that I have seen and been in you have everything right where you want it and in the order that you use a certain tool. 👍
Who else always looks for their sticker? 😁 thanks the info man.
For your chargers you can mount them upside down under the front upper cabinet. And use power strips so all the cords are tucked underneath and you only have 1 or 2 power strip cords going down to the outlets in the front
A level storage suggestion. At the end of your video, you had your back to the passenger side of the trailer. You have all that space at the top of your cabinets and the ceiling of your trailer. You might have to lower your cabinets a few inches but you look to have plenty of space
Kyle . If it was me , what if you took the front top cabinet and mount all batteries up underneath and put the chargers on the wall under them . put a 3/4 ply wood on top off the lower cabinet making it your work table / bench. and then the existing table / bench is where I would secure all the levels . and maybe make some more storage for more pack outs / or custom drawers . you trailer is awesome your saying it just needs a little tweaking in my opinion based on your video. ??? Keep up the great work !
For every minute spent in organizing, an hour is earned.
Kyle, congrats on 1 Mill, for storage, I would take the bench on the left side, raise it 6”, and run tunnels underneath for the levels. That front catch all area, install your battery charging station, cords, hoses go on the inside of the rear doors on hooks. Problem solved.
I would build a charging shelf under the front upper cabinets! Nice to take them home on the weekend, until that Monday you forget to bring them back! Leave the batteries in the trailer and charging! Put the cords on the back of the upper cabinets in a little soffit with a long power strip to plug them into, cords and power strip would be hidden from sight and the batteries would be on job with tools!
Bring your cupboard forward 2” and put slots behind with stops for length of each level.
Love the trailer builds. Not sure why just cool to see and think of how you want it done. And again, congrats on the 1M subs.
I have an idea for levels. Take tool belt hangers down. Build box on bottom of existing wall where tool belts were. Add 2 inch foam pad in bottom of box. Install clips on wall for levels to lock into. Tool belts are usually 1st thing off of trailer.. Get 2 trays 1 for each belt and stack in corner at base of work bench in nose of trailer or other suitable location on floor
I saw the build. It's interesting to hear how it's worked out. Great sticker wall.
1Mill subs! Sounds like a new trailer wouldn't be out of the realm of possibilities. Not saying get rid of this one. Maybe just let Greg pull this one. 🤔 Your vids are awesome too watch because your at that 2nd or 3rd level that everyone inspires to be at in just about everything you do. Great work, great work ethic, = awesome output. I want one of your buildings and would pay much more for one built by you. I'm going to build a post frame, but I know it's going to be hard because whoever I have build it is not going to be as detailed and efficient as you would be. Most people just don't care or take as much pride in their work like you and Greg.
CONGRATS KYLE ON 1 MILLION
Tool trailer tool trailer. What about this million you hit this week. Wicked awesome 🤩. 🤘🤘🤩
For your shorter levels. You probably don't have any that are more than 1 1/2" thick. Create a grid on the workbench currently underneath the levels. Give each a framed out home. Use a piece of 3/4" to cover, hinge at the back, maybe use a couple of compression rods to hold it open. That way, you get to keep the work area (minus 2" of height) and all of the short levels are accessible. Easiest fix for the long Stabilas is a section of PVC (4" or 6") mounted at the corner of the roof. Cheers - love the channel ...
For the levels what about mounting long pieces of PVC to the ceiling in the corner.. then just get a twist cap for the end. Can slide them in and out easily
Tool belt rests on the bench vice and hang my levels off the ceiling in bungee cords. I will definitely be looking into the 48 tools battery holder.
Congratulations on 1 million!
While it may require some work, reaching out and finding replacements for the stickers might help a lot. At least for the ones that would be covered up. Then you can place the new one in a better spot.
Those levels could be hung along the ceiling next to the wall above the shelving that does not go all the way up. Perhaps a series of strong magnets to avoid putting holes in the roof. And by hung I mean the holder for the levels, that way they can still have some protection.
I would move the battery/impact guns to the front of the trailer and just extend the shelves up to the ceiling on the right side to store your tool belts, levels, ext cords and such. You could modify the built-ins up front or re-build but i would modify it to fit your needs. That stainless table top in much more useable than a plywood top for it durability.
Big wire extensions go into frame drum cable winders which keeps everything up and out of the dirt and it's faster to wind up. When people manually coil up an extension they are often adding a kink to it and eventually the strands break
That's a great point & idea
Kyle,
You should definitely do a 1million subscriber special with a brand new trailer buildout and give the old one away as part of the tool package giveaway! Then you can customize your trailer exactly as you want it.
Hi Kyle I’ve watched your video’s and have always been impressed with your craftsmanship and attention to details. I’ve been accused of being to picky in my building. “ don’t worry about it it doesn’t have to be that close “ you ever thought of auctioning off your trailer on your channel? I’d bet you would get a pretty penny for it just because it was yours. Someone would love to own that trailer just because it was yours 👍🏽Then you could build your dream trailer 😊😊
this trailer is amazing!
I love your trailer, but here are my suggestions. The top "factory" cabinets are awkward. Why not turn them into personal storage space since you both work out of the trailer. Put in dividers which wouldn't be all that hard to do. You have one, Greg has one then there is one for shared items like maybe lunch supplies or a coffee maker or small microwave. For the levels, those are worth protecting. I see some open space behind the cabinet at the rear of the trailer. Could possibly utilize that for the levels. Other option would be to build a false wall of sorts on the work bench. Wouldn't take up much of the bench space but would give you secure storage for your levels. Easy access to them from the curb door. The rest of the wall could be used for hanging things, maybe add some pegboard or a rack system. Both the factory bench and the one you built have so much potential. Need to add a vice. Maybe turn one into a charging station and maintenance area for your tools and have the other one set up to work from when you need to build something. One thing I would do though, and it kills me because I love the look of the wood, is to paint all the wood with a roll on bed liner material. it would add durability to the wood and give a tougher finish than paint. I love your set up though and really it's awesome as it is.