@@HandmadebyLorelei Yea, Kaweco nibs are famous for their inconsistency. But, they are an easy fix. EF/ F nibs seem to be the biggest culprits. I prefer the M and the Stub nibs. The former I've had to adjust the tines in all of them because they are much too close together. Same with the stub nib, I even took an exacto to it to slightly widen the channel for an even wetter flow. Now all are perfect. My Broad nib worked perfectly out of the box.
@@Bazerkly i didn’t say that it was. It’s a good thing to know if you are a fountain pen owner, period. This is a great tip for those of us that like wetter writers across the board. Typically, EF/ F/ M Kaweco pens are drier writers. One thing I’d hate to do is imply that this is a rampant problem. I’ve seen people take a pen that has drier attributes and immediately treat it as a glitch, not the character of that pen. Research that pen and see what to expect and you’d be surprised how much you’d learn about it before you plunk down a dollar. I’ve been collecting fountain pens since 2014 and I can count how many times I’ve had to make adjustments to my pens on both hands.
What I have found that helps sometimes is to press down on where the breather hole is while simultaneously gently lifting up on both shoulders of the nib. When the nib comes back to rest, it will most often open up that tine slit just a bit. The first time I tried that was on a MontBlanc 149 that was fairly ink starved and it writes much better after that slight adjustment.
Exactly what I do. My first 'real' fountain pen was a vac700r and watched a video produced by TWSBI of the nib adjuster people that had special pliers that manipulated the nibs. If you go too far, just bend it back :)
The one problem you can sometimes encounter with that approach is that you can lift the tines off of the tip of the feed and end up with your tines floating slightly above it, which may create its own ink flow issues. Getting them back down and touching the feed can be a bit more difficult than bending them up, because you'll have to take the nib off the feed to do it properly.
Thank you very much for making this video! I have lightly used micromesh and also used mylar paper to smooth nibs because I like them buttery smooth, but I wasn't sure how to open the tines a bit. Your explanation and demonstration are very clear. Thank you!
Nice video. I had to do the same thing that you did with a Twisbi eco F nib. The pen had a really bad ink flow and feedback and drove me nuts. I flossed the tines and widen the tines. Now the pen write nice and wet and smooth as can be expected for a jowo nib.
I was taught that cutting the feed channel is risky, even if you have the right tools. Filing is more exact and safer, but you do need a specially file that is very thin. Three of them, each with a different grit, is even better.
Thank you - This video was really helpful for me. I like wet nibs. I think I'll practice a bit with some Lamy steel ones first. Any more videos on nib adjusting? Thanks.
Hi, I'm new to collecting fountain pens and just received a Kaweco classic through the post. It has a fine nib. The line was a little mean, or dry I guess is the term. I also noticed the nib tines were very slightly curved downwards. So, after watching your video, and seeing that it's probably to do with the tines being too close together, I decided to put the pen to paper and gentle push down on the nib using my finger tip. I don't have any brass sheets. It seems to have done the trick. The tines appear straight now and the line it draws is a little more generous. I do like to draw with fountain pens, which is just as well as my handwriting is beyond atrocious and I can hardly read it myself! Many thanks for your video.
Oh this is really helpful. I need to try something with my TWSBI so thanks.... i will say my Kaweco Perkeo (I bought as cheap a pen as I could to try the brand) is the wettest under $100 pen I've ever owned so I find it interesting that their nibs are traditionally dry writers.
I had a similar problem with two Kaweco i just bought. The tines were completely pushed together at the end. I really like the pens and don't mind doing a bit of nib adjusting, but still, one would think Kaweco would sort this out.
I didn't have or couldn't find a brass sheet, so I used a stainless steel blade from my shaving machine to widen the tynes of a TWSBI ECO that was really dry. I used the same blade to widen the feed channel of my Jinhaos 159 with great success. Next step to smooth all my nibs 5gat are not to my taste with some micro mesh sheets. Thanks for the useful video !
It is funny to me largely because the only pen I have owned that I had to open up was a Koweco. In fact, while I like the utility of the Koweco pocket pen, it was one of the worst writers I had until I did exactly what you just demonstrated. Well, I thought so, but it was a gusher when I finished. In truth, I just do not use the “Koweco Art Sport” anymore. I should sell it, but I view it as unethical to sell it without fully disclosing that the nib likely needs tuning. I always enjoy your channel, and this one was not an exception. I might even dig out the pen, ink it, and see if I have learned enough about more than 2 years of watching various nib tuning sessions to make it a better performing pen.
I bought a set of feeler gages at the local hardware store for a few bucks. You can pull it apart, clean up any oil residue and use these to floss and slightly widen the gap in the tines. It’s been working like a charm.
@@carloswilson977 I just purchased these and now have to clean off the oil before using them. I got the feeler gauges based on a tip from a highly regarded vintage pen restorer. But now I've seen other comments indicating that these can scratch the surfaces of the nib inside the tines, and that only brass should be used. So...I'm confused. I do know they should not be used on gold nibs because gold is softer than steel.
@@marilyngardner4269 Hi Marilyn, I should have added my personal rules when tinkering with my pens. If the pen has a gold nib or is above $100, I usually will not do major adjustements and will leave it to the pros. Maybe straighten out the tines a bit, but thats about it. If the pen has a steel nib or that can be replaced if things go wrong (i.e. TWSBI or Kaweco) and at a reasonable cost (my threshhold is around $30), then its game on... Also note that once the pens are tuned, they usually don't need any work unless they are dropped. Get or make a good pen flush to clean them out regularly, instead of flossing. In my expericnce, I have not had any issues using the feeler guages. You may want to pracitice on some Jinhao pens. A couple of options, (992, X750 or X450). They're really cheap, and are fully dissassembleable, with a #5 or #6 nib and only cost a $5-$10 each, and surprisingly they're actually not bad pens.
@@carloswilson977 Thanks for the clarification. I also make it a rule not to do anything with the gold nibs in my collection. I too leave those to the experts. I have had very good luck with the brass shims but would like to try a feeler gauge on one steel nib I have. The discouraging messages I saw about metal on metal might not make a difference in nib performance anyway. It sounded more like the metal on metal could damage the integrity of the steel. I'll probably try it once I get the oil off the feeler gauges. (I have also seen people use multiple brass shims stacked to get the same effect. Had I known the feeler gauges would be so oily, I would have tried that first.)
Treat her like a Lady! Ahhhh Mon Cher! NO apologies to the wokery!!! This is subtle , this practical, this is penmanship...without the Lady...🤗😄🙏🙏🙏. Great presentation of a tricky little subject. 🍰[ --- oh go on Kerry! You deserve a slice!] 😁
To author: Please go back thru this and listen to the way you say "umm" and "uhh" -- you growl it. Also other sections of lower-spoken words, but the uhh's & umm's better illustrate what I'm talking about. Love your work but, that vocalization is like nails-on-chalkboard to me, & many others. PLEASE work on stopping doing that! It's abhorrent!
Word to the wise: get comfy with doing this if you're a Kaweco collector. I've never NOT had to do this with my Kaweco nibs.
Really?? I have 5 or 6 kaweco sports all with B or BB nibs and they are pretty wet.
@@HandmadebyLorelei Yea, Kaweco nibs are famous for their inconsistency. But, they are an easy fix. EF/ F nibs seem to be the biggest culprits. I prefer the M and the Stub nibs. The former I've had to adjust the tines in all of them because they are much too close together. Same with the stub nib, I even took an exacto to it to slightly widen the channel for an even wetter flow. Now all are perfect. My Broad nib worked perfectly out of the box.
It's not only Kaweco.
@@Bazerkly i didn’t say that it was. It’s a good thing to know if you are a fountain pen owner, period. This is a great tip for those of us that like wetter writers across the board. Typically, EF/ F/ M Kaweco pens are drier writers.
One thing I’d hate to do is imply that this is a rampant problem. I’ve seen people take a pen that has drier attributes and immediately treat it as a glitch, not the character of that pen. Research that pen and see what to expect and you’d be surprised how much you’d learn about it before you plunk down a dollar. I’ve been collecting fountain pens since 2014 and I can count how many times I’ve had to make adjustments to my pens on both hands.
What I have found that helps sometimes is to press down on where the breather hole is while simultaneously gently lifting up on both shoulders of the nib. When the nib comes back to rest, it will most often open up that tine slit just a bit. The first time I tried that was on a MontBlanc 149 that was fairly ink starved and it writes much better after that slight adjustment.
Exactly what I do. My first 'real' fountain pen was a vac700r and watched a video produced by TWSBI of the nib adjuster people that had special pliers that manipulated the nibs. If you go too far, just bend it back :)
The one problem you can sometimes encounter with that approach is that you can lift the tines off of the tip of the feed and end up with your tines floating slightly above it, which may create its own ink flow issues. Getting them back down and touching the feed can be a bit more difficult than bending them up, because you'll have to take the nib off the feed to do it properly.
Thank you very much for making this video! I have lightly used micromesh and also used mylar paper to smooth nibs because I like them buttery smooth, but I wasn't sure how to open the tines a bit. Your explanation and demonstration are very clear. Thank you!
Can’t thank you enough for your FP content. 🎉. Thank you for all you do
Thank you!
Great video! Vanness Pens also sells some White Lightning to make inks write wetter as well.
Terrific and simple to follow. Thank you for the helpful tips.
Nice video.
I had to do the same thing that you did with a Twisbi eco F nib.
The pen had a really bad ink flow and feedback and drove me nuts. I flossed the tines and widen the tines. Now the pen write nice and wet and smooth as can be expected for a jowo nib.
Thanks for this great tip! I will certainly try to use it 😊
Most useful advice.
Great video , I used a gapping tool for a dry lamy lx and now has a good flow wet as I like it
It worked even with a paper cutter
Now its writting little broader thankyou 😂😂
No need to ever apologize for Parker. A brief explanation for the newbies, but no apologies necessary! Sometimes I wish we could see more of him.
Unfortunate name though. I’ve never had a decent Parker pen.
Parker always finds a way to get herself into the videos.
I think Parker's a he.
@@MrPeterpat Well, apologies for misgendering, if I have. I adore Parker and their attention-seeking ways whatever.
I was taught that cutting the feed channel is risky, even if you have the right tools. Filing is more exact and safer, but you do need a specially file that is very thin. Three of them, each with a different grit, is even better.
Thank you - This video was really helpful for me. I like wet nibs. I think I'll practice a bit with some Lamy steel ones first. Any more videos on nib adjusting? Thanks.
A shaving razor can also do creation of a slight gap to increase the wetness
Hi, I'm new to collecting fountain pens and just received a Kaweco classic through the post. It has a fine nib. The line was a little mean, or dry I guess is the term. I also noticed the nib tines were very slightly curved downwards. So, after watching your video, and seeing that it's probably to do with the tines being too close together, I decided to put the pen to paper and gentle push down on the nib using my finger tip. I don't have any brass sheets. It seems to have done the trick. The tines appear straight now and the line it draws is a little more generous. I do like to draw with fountain pens, which is just as well as my handwriting is beyond atrocious and I can hardly read it myself! Many thanks for your video.
thank you, very helpful to me. I hope your week is a great one.
Oh this is really helpful. I need to try something with my TWSBI so thanks.... i will say my Kaweco Perkeo (I bought as cheap a pen as I could to try the brand) is the wettest under $100 pen I've ever owned so I find it interesting that their nibs are traditionally dry writers.
I had a similar problem with two Kaweco i just bought. The tines were completely pushed together at the end.
I really like the pens and don't mind doing a bit of nib adjusting, but still, one would think Kaweco would sort this out.
I didn't have or couldn't find a brass sheet, so I used a stainless steel blade from my shaving machine to widen the tynes of a TWSBI ECO that was really dry. I used the same blade to widen the feed channel of my Jinhaos 159 with great success.
Next step to smooth all my nibs 5gat are not to my taste with some micro mesh sheets.
Thanks for the useful video !
Goulet pens sells the size brass sheets she’s using.. packaged in the same small zip bag :)
@@Winterz54321 thanks 😊 but I live in Europe 🇪🇺 so goulet pens is not an option 😥
Great vid. Thank you.
This is excellent info. Can brass sheets be easily bought in shops?
It is funny to me largely because the only pen I have owned that I had to open up was a Koweco. In fact, while I like the utility of the Koweco pocket pen, it was one of the worst writers I had until I did exactly what you just demonstrated. Well, I thought so, but it was a gusher when I finished. In truth, I just do not use the “Koweco Art Sport” anymore. I should sell it, but I view it as unethical to sell it without fully disclosing that the nib likely needs tuning. I always enjoy your channel, and this one was not an exception. I might even dig out the pen, ink it, and see if I have learned enough about more than 2 years of watching various nib tuning sessions to make it a better performing pen.
I feel like every nib needs tuning as each person writes different and no pen will work the same for everyone
I find that most of my fountain pens require a bit of tweaking right out of the box..
I used gauge shims from instruments store.
I've been looking for these so bad but I can't find them anywhere >.
Please provide link for where to buy the brass sheets and what the thickness of the brass sheets is. This would really help immensely!
Goblet pens has it. You can also use a spark plug gap gauge and use the .005 or .006
I always afraid to do this with my very dry pilot custom 823 m nib pen
THE PROBLEM IS MY INK, HOW CAN I WET IT??
What is the thickness of the brass shim?
These appear to be from Goulet Pens, which are .002"
Great but rusky
The sound is not working
Seems to be working for everyone else? Is it working for you now?
Where can we buy the brass shin sheets?
Goulet Pens sells them.
I bought a set of feeler gages at the local hardware store for a few bucks. You can pull it apart, clean up any oil residue and use these to floss and slightly widen the gap in the tines. It’s been working like a charm.
@@carloswilson977 I just purchased these and now have to clean off the oil before using them. I got the feeler gauges based on a tip from a highly regarded vintage pen restorer. But now I've seen other comments indicating that these can scratch the surfaces of the nib inside the tines, and that only brass should be used. So...I'm confused. I do know they should not be used on gold nibs because gold is softer than steel.
@@marilyngardner4269 Hi Marilyn, I should have added my personal rules when tinkering with my pens. If the pen has a gold nib or is above $100, I usually will not do major adjustements and will leave it to the pros. Maybe straighten out the tines a bit, but thats about it. If the pen has a steel nib or that can be replaced if things go wrong (i.e. TWSBI or Kaweco) and at a reasonable cost (my threshhold is around $30), then its game on... Also note that once the pens are tuned, they usually don't need any work unless they are dropped. Get or make a good pen flush to clean them out regularly, instead of flossing.
In my expericnce, I have not had any issues using the feeler guages.
You may want to pracitice on some Jinhao pens. A couple of options, (992, X750 or X450). They're really cheap, and are fully dissassembleable, with a #5 or #6 nib and only cost a $5-$10 each, and surprisingly they're actually not bad pens.
@@carloswilson977 Thanks for the clarification. I also make it a rule not to do anything with the gold nibs in my collection. I too leave those to the experts. I have had very good luck with the brass shims but would like to try a feeler gauge on one steel nib I have. The discouraging messages I saw about metal on metal might not make a difference in nib performance anyway. It sounded more like the metal on metal could damage the integrity of the steel. I'll probably try it once I get the oil off the feeler gauges. (I have also seen people use multiple brass shims stacked to get the same effect. Had I known the feeler gauges would be so oily, I would have tried that first.)
Did you name your cat Parker after the pen company or just a coincidence?
I didn’t do it on purpose, I just thought of the name and liked it but I’m sure that could be subconsciously how my brain thought of the name lol
Ask my dog, Monteverde. (just kidding)
Treat her like a Lady! Ahhhh Mon Cher! NO apologies to the wokery!!! This is subtle , this practical, this is penmanship...without the Lady...🤗😄🙏🙏🙏. Great presentation of a tricky little subject. 🍰[ --- oh go on Kerry! You deserve a slice!] 😁
To author: Please go back thru this and listen to the way you say "umm" and "uhh" -- you growl it. Also other sections of lower-spoken words, but the uhh's & umm's better illustrate what I'm talking about. Love your work but, that vocalization is like nails-on-chalkboard to me, & many others. PLEASE work on stopping doing that! It's abhorrent!