This was so helpful! I'm new to fountain pens, and just bought a vintage one online on spec. Luckily for me it seems to be in perfect working order - except the gold nib is a little worn and slightly misaligned. So with this info, I've gently realigned the tine with my thumbnail, and it's already smoother. Thank you!
My Conklin Duragraph fine was pretty nasty when I got it. The alignment was okay, but it was grabby and scratchy on lower quality paper, and not very nice on the high grade stuff. Using the mylar on it did nothing, so I ordered the MicroMesh. It took a while, but I've gotten it much better, and it's at least usable. I have a GP #6 extra fine nib I got for a Jinhao and put it on the Conklin instead. I was surprised when that was scratchy too, but nothing like the Duragraph. Once again the mylar had no effect, but a very brief rub on the MicroMesh and it's perfect, with just the right amount of feedback. So far these are the only nibs I've felt the need to rework, although I have run into ones with hard starting or flow issues, but some of that can be ink dependent. Anyway, it pays to have these inexpensive implements at hand, just in case.
+CHRIS LJ Yeah, not everything is going to stay in pristine condition. It's like a car, sometimes it needs a tune-up. So having an understanding of the process behind that can be important, especially with higher end pens. - Colin
Yeah, I have a Charlie from Noodlers that just drops a glob of ink after writing a couple of paragraphs. Still tinkering with it to get it to stop dripping because it writes well when it isn't.
+Felip Moral Have you tried heat-setting the pen? (th-cam.com/video/9rhfXcBoM_Q/w-d-xo.html). Noodler's usually need that because of the ebonite feed. - Colin
Ohh thank you so much 🙏 Question- how do you know what is the cause for hard start/skipping? I’m trying to understand also how exactly it looks like when I look with a loop. (Baby bottom/ tines that are too tight)
I love buying cheaper pens like my Wing Sung 699 and PenBBS 309 and then modifying them so that they outperform much more expensive pens, My 699 is now very wet and has a ludicrously smooth 0.5 stub after modification from being a very poory manufactured nib and feed. And my 609 has a nice bouncy fude nib and now a super smooth non-sticking piston. I have also done a nice broad architect grind on my Opus88 Koloro to use with my Sailor Manyo Haha ink. And I have done several stubs and cursive nibs. From my experience a loupe, a #1000 diamond grinding plate, a razor blade, a micromesh craft kit and a good amount of patience is all you need. Waterman Serenity blue is the universaly agreed test ink too as it has most adverage and reliable ink properties and is easy to clean. Also you should check alignment at pretty much every stage, especially if grinding so that you don't create issues such as baby's bottom.
+Bakubaymon It highlights the new arrivals, products coming soon, sale items, blog posts from that week, and a personal message from Brian and Rachel! - Colin
I’ve got a brand new PC 823 Medium Nib that has been horrible out of the box. It’s too tight. Terrible flow and starting issues. Nothing shy of sending the thing back to the company for adjustments is going to get it to write correctly. So virtually any pen warranty is going to be voided because who’s going to send it back? Very few I’m betting.
you must be lucky to always have pens that work well. Every noodlers pen I have required some modifcation. Even better pens, such as platinum required work. Sure, if you're happy with your pen, then don't modify it, but if it's dripping ink (yes this happened), or if the nib would have too much space between the feed or nib (which causes it not to write at all, and this happened to me too), then modifying it is worth knowing.
+SniperWalrus Some people just like to tinker and refine their writing instruments. I've never touched my pens because I'm happy with how they write, that's why I bought them. It just depends on the person! - Colin
SniperWalrus My Lamy Safari EF was totally usable but since I use it for sketching I needed it to flow easier with a very light touch. I tried to be happy with it but failed. Spreading the tines fixed my problem.
I have several pens, all were great except for my Pilot CM nib on my Prera. The tines were too tight and it was so scratchy it was tearing up even nice paper. So I've had to mod that one. I think I got lucky with my others tho, those were all in perfect condition out of the box with a little nib flushing (only my TWSBI needed the flush tho, my others were find without it).
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
This was so helpful!
I'm new to fountain pens, and just bought a vintage one online on spec. Luckily for me it seems to be in perfect working order - except the gold nib is a little worn and slightly misaligned. So with this info, I've gently realigned the tine with my thumbnail, and it's already smoother. Thank you!
My Conklin Duragraph fine was pretty nasty when I got it. The alignment was okay, but it was grabby and scratchy on lower quality paper, and not very nice on the high grade stuff. Using the mylar on it did nothing, so I ordered the MicroMesh. It took a while, but I've gotten it much better, and it's at least usable.
I have a GP #6 extra fine nib I got for a Jinhao and put it on the Conklin instead. I was surprised when that was scratchy too, but nothing like the Duragraph. Once again the mylar had no effect, but a very brief rub on the MicroMesh and it's perfect, with just the right amount of feedback.
So far these are the only nibs I've felt the need to rework, although I have run into ones with hard starting or flow issues, but some of that can be ink dependent. Anyway, it pays to have these inexpensive implements at hand, just in case.
+CHRIS LJ Yeah, not everything is going to stay in pristine condition. It's like a car, sometimes it needs a tune-up. So having an understanding of the process behind that can be important, especially with higher end pens. - Colin
Yeah, I have a Charlie from Noodlers that just drops a glob of ink after writing a couple of paragraphs. Still tinkering with it to get it to stop dripping because it writes well when it isn't.
+Felip Moral Have you tried heat-setting the pen? (th-cam.com/video/9rhfXcBoM_Q/w-d-xo.html). Noodler's usually need that because of the ebonite feed. - Colin
+The Goulet Pen Company ...thanks Colin, I'll try that. I hadn't seen that video.
Ohh thank you so much 🙏 Question- how do you know what is the cause for hard start/skipping? I’m trying to understand also how exactly it looks like when I look with a loop. (Baby bottom/ tines that are too tight)
I love buying cheaper pens like my Wing Sung 699 and PenBBS 309 and then modifying them so that they outperform much more expensive pens, My 699 is now very wet and has a ludicrously smooth 0.5 stub after modification from being a very poory manufactured nib and feed. And my 609 has a nice bouncy fude nib and now a super smooth non-sticking piston. I have also done a nice broad architect grind on my Opus88 Koloro to use with my Sailor Manyo Haha ink. And I have done several stubs and cursive nibs. From my experience a loupe, a #1000 diamond grinding plate, a razor blade, a micromesh craft kit and a good amount of patience is all you need. Waterman Serenity blue is the universaly agreed test ink too as it has most adverage and reliable ink properties and is easy to clean. Also you should check alignment at pretty much every stage, especially if grinding so that you don't create issues such as baby's bottom.
Great tips. Thank you good sir.
Hey I was wondering what the Goulet Pens weekly email newsletter has in it. Are there things like weekly promotions and sales or is it something else?
+Bakubaymon It highlights the new arrivals, products coming soon, sale items, blog posts from that week, and a personal message from Brian and Rachel! - Colin
Thanks :D
Handsome dude! Makes it hard to focus on the video ☺️
I often have to watch a Goulet video 3x before I comprehend the content.
I’ve got a brand new PC 823 Medium Nib that has been horrible out of the box. It’s too tight. Terrible flow and starting issues. Nothing shy of sending the thing back to the company for adjustments is going to get it to write correctly. So virtually any pen warranty is going to be voided because who’s going to send it back? Very few I’m betting.
Am I the only one who tries to be happy with my pens the way they are? Unless they're totally unusable I leave them as they are. :\
you must be lucky to always have pens that work well. Every noodlers pen I have required some modifcation. Even better pens, such as platinum required work. Sure, if you're happy with your pen, then don't modify it, but if it's dripping ink (yes this happened), or if the nib would have too much space between the feed or nib (which causes it not to write at all, and this happened to me too), then modifying it is worth knowing.
+SniperWalrus Some people just like to tinker and refine their writing instruments. I've never touched my pens because I'm happy with how they write, that's why I bought them. It just depends on the person! - Colin
SniperWalrus My Lamy Safari EF was totally usable but since I use it for sketching I needed it to flow easier with a very light touch. I tried to be happy with it but failed. Spreading the tines fixed my problem.
I have several pens, all were great except for my Pilot CM nib on my Prera. The tines were too tight and it was so scratchy it was tearing up even nice paper. So I've had to mod that one. I think I got lucky with my others tho, those were all in perfect condition out of the box with a little nib flushing (only my TWSBI needed the flush tho, my others were find without it).