After some trial and error, I finally got my Strokers bled. Here's a few tips that should make your life a little easier: 1 - Cut the tube 2 inches for the Haynes bottle, the rest for the "catch" bottle. 2 - 4 inch zip ties will save your sanity. Use them to cinch the tube to the caliper, you likely won't have the bushing in the vid. 3 - I mounted my catch bottle upside down like an IV and pumped up into it; no air will float back into the system. Use a stick, clamp and some duct tape!
This was much better than trying to read how to do this in the manual. Once you've go the right equipment (i.e. Proper fitting spanner and bleed fitting) , it's actually not that difficult to do. Yes you could go and get it repaired professionally but you may have to wait weeks ... Thanks Andy!
For you guys having trouble, you might have a bleeder screw that isn't sealing. You can't get the job done with a leaky bleed screw. Either get a new one or use teflon tape on the threads. I had real trouble bleeding the brakes the second time and the reason was a leaky bleed screw. I put two or three wraps of teflon tape tightly around the bleed screw and the job took no time. Got a rock hard lever with very little effort. Hope this helps somebody out there.
Hey man, not sure if you're still active on YT. But did you use the teflon tape to basically wrap it around the threads of the screw itself? So you took it out, the entire screw, wrapped tape around the threads, and put it back in? If so, did you keep it this way or removed it again once the job was done?
@@breakdown7553 Hello, yes I'm still here. Yes, wrap the teflon tape around the bleeder screw once you have removed it. Wrap it tightly in the right direction. When reinstalled, it will seal the air leaks you are getting when bleeding the brakes. Leave it in place when you are done.
And one more: I used an old saline solution bottle as the catch bottle, the hose mounted nicely onto it. As long as it was vertical above the lever/master cylinder, you won't have to worry about reintroducing air into the system when you squeeze the lever (though you'll get some drips when you pull the hose out of the bleeder screw on the lever).
Any tips where I can purchase the bottles and tubing for the kit? Would prefer a DIY solution as opposed to purchasing a preassembled kit. Thanks for the leads!
OK- I just used a standard 1/4" brass compression bushing from Lowes. I had to dremel it out a bit to fit on the bleed fitting. To really get it locked onto the fitting, use some pliers and twist it on down. The hose would still pop off my syringe and spray brake fluid everywhere. The 6mm box wrench was a real bitch to find- especially if you don't want to buy a whole set, which I wound up having to do.
HOLD THE PHONE!!! I RECOGNIZE HIS VOICE!!! THAT'S THE GUY ON THE PHONE ANSWERING MACHINE WHEN YOU CALL HAYES AND YOU GET THE PROMPTS!!! THAT'S HIS VOICE!!! JUST REALIZED THAT!
does this brand still exist? I have to bleed my hayes brake on the 10year old merida XC bike. :D has never been done before. And those brakes still brake like crazy, really nice aggressive build up. I dont know how they did it, but I can compare it to the shimano saint line and I have pretty much same feel.
Watch out when you pull the lever during bleeding, you can risk reintroducing air into the master cylinder. What he doesn't tell you is that they have a check valve on the hose to their catch bottle, so they can flick it as many times and air can only go out
@13woj13 it might be the lever body need's lubricating on the o-rings. Open the lever pull out the parts wipe them down and lubricate the o-rings , re-bleed.
Hey I have Hayes nine brakes and I am replacing the pads and on the new pads there is a clip you have to get on it, but I can’t get it on there.. can you help?
Since you usually want to replace old "contaminated" fluid, I am surprised that there are no instructions for "draining" out the old fluid before replacing it with new fluid
PLEASE HELP ME!, I Haves hayes So1e ,i did the bleeding process as told to and get it perfect pressure, as fast as i lower the lever to the right postion and press(pump) a few times it losses pressure directly to empty, then i relocate the lever up(to the highest point) ,and press(pump) a few times the pressure comes back, WTF IS GOING ON!!?!?! GOING CRAZY. its full with the correct oil, nothing leaking ,no wet/oily cable or parts , made it bleed many times so dont think its air in the system
You really need to remove the pistons from the caliper, clean and apply some rubber grease or red grease onto the sides of the pistons. You can apply it with them in the calipers if you remove pads and pump them out a little very carefully then apply the grease. Just don't get any grease on the pads. Motorbike shops should have some rubber/red grease.
So in the Hayes bleeder kit instructions, it says to hang the bike with the master cylinder up, opposite of this video. I tried it both ways about 4 times and have yet to be successful (My brakes won't clamp & the brake handle pulls straight to the handlebar). So I still have way too much air in the system, not sure what I did wrong. I flipped the lever & flipped the master cylinder up & down & got all the air I could find out. Ended with a steady flow of DOT4 every time & still not much pressure. Possible equipment problem? My brakes didn't work well before the bleed & didn't change anything after the bleed. Pads are in good shape.
Joel Me too. I found air in the system at the lever/reservoir. A few light raps with the handle of a screw driver released a flurry of bubbles, which the lever flick did not. After that I forced a bit more fluid and shut the bleed port on the caliper. Then removed the catch bottle and put the screw back in the lever/reservoir. I worked on my brakes with the lever at the high point.
@finnrambo1 hey how are your hayes nine brakes working? I'm laughing cause I have the same ones. I've bleed them over 10 times in 2 years. Awesome power for 2 weeks, then bad lever feel for 2 weeks, then lack of power. It's really fun to bleed them, isn't it? I'm getting new ones this week. Hard to pick though. Hope, Avid, Hayes?
i dont know about you but i dont like those breaks, i got em, original pad sucks, i bought swisstop brake pads and it still sucks, it doesnt brake like deore or some other brakes in that group, tell me your opinion about those brakes, tnx
@ 7:11 It does not feel good. I have 2 brand new sets of those, same color too, and they feel like garbage at the lever. I'm not watching this video because they work. After watching this video, I have determined that I have set them up properly, they just feel like crap.
how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me
I have just bled my brakes, so i went to test them, before i got on it, i spun the wheel nd braked, everything was ok, so i got on it and then braked few times but then suddenly the brake pads are braking on the rotors, they didnt let go with the rotor and the lever is now impossible to be pressed, can anyone help? Sorry if it doesnt make sence :D
@rutheg1nger dont man they are pretty shit. get hayes hx9, they are cheaper, more common (spare parts, might be able to get second hand) and better power and modulation!
Holy crap that was simple,my brakes barely work,i have to squeeze like a mad on both brakes. My hydraulic brakes work like my old crappy v-brakes. AAAAAAAnd it does not work very well
Poorly engineered system! Better remove the whole hydraulics system from the bike, to avoid a mess! Hell, next time I will just buy a new system instead of bleeding this one. Cheers!
When the only video on how to bleed your brakes is from 12 years ago but is still useful and helpful.
After some trial and error, I finally got my Strokers bled. Here's a few tips that should make your life a little easier:
1 - Cut the tube 2 inches for the Haynes bottle, the rest for the "catch" bottle.
2 - 4 inch zip ties will save your sanity. Use them to cinch the tube to the caliper, you likely won't have the bushing in the vid.
3 - I mounted my catch bottle upside down like an IV and pumped up into it; no air will float back into the system. Use a stick, clamp and some duct tape!
This was much better than trying to read how to do this in the manual. Once you've go the right equipment (i.e. Proper fitting spanner and bleed fitting) , it's actually not that difficult to do.
Yes you could go and get it repaired professionally but you may have to wait weeks ...
Thanks Andy!
For you guys having trouble, you might have a bleeder screw that isn't sealing. You can't get the job done with a leaky bleed screw. Either get a new one or use teflon tape on the threads. I had real trouble bleeding the brakes the second time and the reason was a leaky bleed screw. I put two or three wraps of teflon tape tightly around the bleed screw and the job took no time. Got a rock hard lever with very little effort.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
Brilliant idea , Bro ! Its WORK !
You have to clue how much trouble my brakes are giving me thank you so much for this tip
Hey man, not sure if you're still active on YT. But did you use the teflon tape to basically wrap it around the threads of the screw itself? So you took it out, the entire screw, wrapped tape around the threads, and put it back in? If so, did you keep it this way or removed it again once the job was done?
@@breakdown7553 Hello, yes I'm still here. Yes, wrap the teflon tape around the bleeder screw once you have removed it. Wrap it tightly in the right direction. When reinstalled, it will seal the air leaks you are getting when bleeding the brakes. Leave it in place when you are done.
Thanks a lot Andy -- now it's totally clear, graphically and finally works.
And one more: I used an old saline solution bottle as the catch bottle, the hose mounted nicely onto it. As long as it was vertical above the lever/master cylinder, you won't have to worry about reintroducing air into the system when you squeeze the lever (though you'll get some drips when you pull the hose out of the bleeder screw on the lever).
Any tips where I can purchase the bottles and tubing for the kit? Would prefer a DIY solution as opposed to purchasing a preassembled kit. Thanks for the leads!
It's so called "olive". It is a standard compression fitting for almost all disc brakes.
Much better than the PDF guide on the website!
Anyone else think Andy sounds like an all round good bloke?
Right on !! Just in time for me to change out brake shoes and re-bleed the brakes. Thanks Hayes !!
OK- I just used a standard 1/4" brass compression bushing from Lowes. I had to dremel it out a bit to fit on the bleed fitting. To really get it locked onto the fitting, use some pliers and twist it on down. The hose would still pop off my syringe and spray brake fluid everywhere.
The 6mm box wrench was a real bitch to find- especially if you don't want to buy a whole set, which I wound up having to do.
HOLD THE PHONE!!! I RECOGNIZE HIS VOICE!!! THAT'S THE GUY ON THE PHONE ANSWERING MACHINE WHEN YOU CALL HAYES AND YOU GET THE PROMPTS!!! THAT'S HIS VOICE!!! JUST REALIZED THAT!
Very clean, useful, professional, fast, clear.... Thanks for the tips Hayes Dude ;-)
does this brand still exist? I have to bleed my hayes brake on the 10year old merida XC bike. :D has never been done before. And those brakes still brake like crazy, really nice aggressive build up. I dont know how they did it, but I can compare it to the shimano saint line and I have pretty much same feel.
thats alot for the video, i now have a idea what i have to do to get mine workin right again
I need your HELP!!! Where can I buy the Mag compression bushing I’ve been looking but Amazon doesn’t seem to have it
this video helps so much! but id rather it showed some closer detail!
Excellent explanation! Thanks!
God bless you good man
Seriously? That's it?! Hella easier than avid!
Can you tell me if its posible to use car brake fluid dot 4 or even motorcicles dot 4 on hayes brakes?
Watch out when you pull the lever during bleeding, you can risk reintroducing air into the master cylinder. What he doesn't tell you is that they have a check valve on the hose to their catch bottle, so they can flick it as many times and air can only go out
You didn't leave enough hose on the bottle. That's why. There's no check valve on it.
the real name for an olive is the cutting ring.and yes its a standard fitting in all hydraulics..
Thank you good man
@13woj13 it might be the lever body need's lubricating on the o-rings. Open the lever pull out the parts wipe them down and lubricate the o-rings , re-bleed.
Great video, thanks to all who made it, awesome guide :D
sorry might of missed something, but didn't you not mention when to re-attach the pads. Good tutorial never the less
Hey I have Hayes nine brakes and I am replacing the pads and on the new pads there is a clip you have to get on it, but I can’t get it on there.. can you help?
thanks Andy!
i will not go to machanical anymore :)
Where do I find that compression fitting to hold the hose on the caliper? That is the most infuriating part of bleeding brakes.
very good and very helpful
Since you usually want to replace old "contaminated" fluid, I am surprised that there are no instructions for "draining" out the old fluid before replacing it with new fluid
Andy passed away in 2010. Likely OSA.
I have yet to see a video or page on how to properly insert the barb/olive peice into the hydraulic hose !!!!
PLEASE HELP ME!, I Haves hayes So1e ,i did the bleeding process as told to and get it perfect pressure, as fast as i lower the lever to the right postion and press(pump) a few times it losses pressure directly to empty, then i relocate the lever up(to the highest point) ,and press(pump) a few times the pressure comes back, WTF IS GOING ON!!?!?! GOING CRAZY.
its full with the correct oil, nothing leaking ,no wet/oily cable or parts , made it bleed many times so dont think its air in the system
You really need to remove the pistons from the caliper, clean and apply some rubber grease or red grease onto the sides of the pistons. You can apply it with them in the calipers if you remove pads and pump them out a little very carefully then apply the grease. Just don't get any grease on the pads. Motorbike shops should have some rubber/red grease.
THANX
No bleed block after removing the pads and pushing the pistons back?
Hayes = awesomeness
@chrisq1w2e3 Sounds like you got air in your line somehow. Any air will kill the brake. You may have to rebleed the system.
buenisimo!!
gracias!!
So in the Hayes bleeder kit instructions, it says to hang the bike with the master cylinder up, opposite of this video. I tried it both ways about 4 times and have yet to be successful (My brakes won't clamp & the brake handle pulls straight to the handlebar). So I still have way too much air in the system, not sure what I did wrong. I flipped the lever & flipped the master cylinder up & down & got all the air I could find out. Ended with a steady flow of DOT4 every time & still not much pressure. Possible equipment problem? My brakes didn't work well before the bleed & didn't change anything after the bleed. Pads are in good shape.
I have the exact same problem. Not sure what is going on.
Joel Me too. I found air in the system at the lever/reservoir. A few light raps with the handle of a screw driver released a flurry of bubbles, which the lever flick did not. After that I forced a bit more fluid and shut the bleed port on the caliper. Then removed the catch bottle and put the screw back in the lever/reservoir. I worked on my brakes with the lever at the high point.
@finnrambo1 hey how are your hayes nine brakes working? I'm laughing cause I have the same ones. I've bleed them over 10 times in 2 years. Awesome power for 2 weeks, then bad lever feel for 2 weeks, then lack of power. It's really fun to bleed them, isn't it? I'm getting new ones this week. Hard to pick though. Hope, Avid, Hayes?
Hi there, I just purchased an '01 Giant NRS w/ Hayes brakes. Is there some household or workshop, item I can use in place of the feeler gauge. Thanks
Your dink.
Спасибо!!
i have this model brakes my problem seems to be the pistons are compressing the rotors BUT NOT FULLY decompressing causing friction whats my solution?
I carried this out but when ive finished i still have poor brakes. Is there something im missing?? Done everything as it says but no joy.
i dont know about you but i dont like those breaks, i got em, original pad sucks, i bought swisstop brake pads and it still sucks, it doesnt brake like deore or some other brakes in that group, tell me your opinion about those brakes, tnx
Love the bike!!!
I have these brakes and my levers dont snap open quickly, they release a little bit slow... What does this mean?
Clean the brake lever with alcohol then bleed your brakes
@ 7:11 It does not feel good.
I have 2 brand new sets of those, same color too, and they feel like garbage at the lever. I'm not watching this video because they work. After watching this video, I have determined that I have set them up properly, they just feel like crap.
People complain but really if you do it correctly you won't have any problems.
So kann man das gut nachmachen! Merci!
So everyone posts comments in English as it's a video done in English and you come along and post your comment I'm German. You're a real genius hey?
one of my brake doesnt work. is cause cuz the system lose oil or cuz have air???
is this demo good for hayes hfx 9 brakes?
how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me
how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me
how i do that with br m525 shimano brake sistem please help me
Hi. My rear Stroker Trail is leaking oil. What can i do?
Buy a new one.
I have just bled my brakes, so i went to test them, before i got on it, i spun the wheel nd braked, everything was ok, so i got on it and then braked few times but then suddenly the brake pads are braking on the rotors, they didnt let go with the rotor and the lever is now impossible to be pressed, can anyone help? Sorry if it doesnt make sence :D
eeee this was sort og useful.
and im bleeding shinamo brakes
lol it was very useful thanks a lot
@rutheg1nger dont man they are pretty shit. get hayes hx9, they are cheaper, more common (spare parts, might be able to get second hand) and better power and modulation!
"it feels good" hahaha
how do i bleed my soles?
wat do u do for the front brake
Uhm....probably the EXACT same thing as the back.
Holy crap that was simple,my brakes barely work,i have to squeeze like a mad on both brakes. My hydraulic brakes work like my old crappy v-brakes.
AAAAAAAnd it does not work very well
Old crappy V brakes? You don't know how to set up V brakes by the sounds of it.
Чёрт, не смогу так-же сделать. У меня руки из жопы..
to co dělá v 4:35, to je přesně to co mi nejde. Prostě to kapalinou "neprofouknu"
muito bom ^^
Poorly engineered system! Better remove the whole hydraulics system from the bike, to avoid a mess! Hell, next time I will just buy a new system instead of bleeding this one. Cheers!
Use a small ziptie.
cable tie
it feels good.............................lol
Nice belly
Usually install plastic block inside the brakes.
I just bough Hayes Bleed Kit Hayes Pro 98-23572 for €35. WHAT A GARBAGE. The bottle with oil jumps off every time.
Hi Andy, do you ride? You don't look like you do. You look like you spend all your time fixing warranty issues.
για το πέοντα
@brendonk01 Hahahahahahahahah!!!!!
This nice guide doesn't work. At all.
And lose some weight. Too many big mac's
Seriously? That's it?! Hella easier than avid!