Simple and easy to follow. Takes the mystery and expense out of bike maintenance. I can do it I can learn a new skill I can save money I can justify buying more tools
Same here, although I’m not sure about having saved money. I spent like $700 worth of tools to save around $50 at my local bike shop. Admittedly, those tools will continue to save me money, but it will be at least 3 years of DIY servicing until I break even 😅
@@onegrapefruitlover you don't need $700 worth of tools, you need the tools you use for your bike/s I have around $100 worth of tools they all fit in a box and I can take apart and service everything on my bike, often, on other people's bikes as well. If you don't have an air fork, you don't need a shock pump, for example.
I counted at least 4 steps that no other brake bleed tutorials I've seen on yt have included (doing the 42 degree angle, flicking the brake line, applying brake pressure and doing the quick open/close thing, burping the brake... etc). I definitely prefer this type of tutorial versus the "good enough" kind.
It’s interesting that no other bike tutorials do this. It’s standard practice on motos, cars, and motorcycles. I’ve always wondered why no one else includes it.
Lots of people (including myself) miss the point where you put a strap on the lever then open and close the bleed port. This is vital for a firm lever! If you miss this point you'll have a brake with no air but not enough fluid and pressure to give a firm feel.
Gotta be honest bro.... this is intimidating. I just got my first downhiller with hydro brakes and have never serviced hyydros.... 30+ years of mountain riding and I’ve always had rimmy’s for brakes .... wayyyyy more easy to maintain but hydro discs are the sh*t !
Found this one first, felt a bit intimidated due to seemingly many steps. Followed the Mountain bike global network one.. straight to the point and into the action. Very easy.
@@oneangryme I agree that most of the time this is more than needed, but I'm really happy to have the extra steps laid out. I do my wrenching at 140 ft above sea level. My local rides max out at a few hundred feet, and I don't use the brakes for more than a few minutes at a time, but sometimes ride at 8- 10,000 ft. Brakes that work fine in the desert sometimes get quite dodgy when I get to Telluride, Durango or Big Bear without the extra attention to detail.
It is true that not all these steps are needed all the time, but they assure a better bleed - especially if you are having trouble with the Shimano wandering bite point problem.
I mean, it’s basically a fairly simple process - first push clean oil from bottom to top, then push clean oil through again from top to bottom while removing all the air.
Best brake bleed video on youtube. I've watched a bunch and this is clear, crisp, to the point, professional, and with some great detail on stuff that other videos skim over. Thank you!!
You guys are absolutely AMAZING, THE BEST. I LOVE YOU. Im kinda newbie and dumb about bikes and such. Especially whole brake system was kinda hard to understand for me, but i wanted to fix myself. I was reading some articles etc, few videos and it didnt help me at all.But every each one of your videos is so well made, nicely and easy explained.. Only thank to your videos, i got it all now. I fixed everything i needed. Simple, easy and compared to some services very cheap. Thanks so much. Amazing job, good luck fellas.
Just followed this process for the rear brake on my Giant Anthem, as it was feeling very spongy, and it worked like a charm! This was very clean compared to other methods I’ve done in the past too!
Yup, me too. Previously, I followed a different video and never got that firm feel. Just did front and back on my Anthem Advanced following this video exactly and my brakes are perfect for once!
Anyone else caught out by "bring the lever away from the grip as far as it will go"? Turns out my lever fully detaches! And it feels very difficult to reattach. Yet to resolve, but hopefully I can work out what to do soon. As with everyone else, otherwise immensely grateful for this and all of your videos!
Happened to me; luckily it was only a couple of mins of finagling to get it screwed back in (had to squeeze the brake a bit and screw it at the same time).
it's a year since this video dropped, and ya'll just save me a $100 visit to the bike shop. Thank you Calvin & Truman for these amazing video how-to's.
bang on i was struggling to get that last bit of air out of the system with my shimanos and just tilting the bike and the resovior helped a lot, thanks
Kit paid for itself after two bikes. I'll be doing this every spring. Got the process down to 15 min. My favorite feature of the kit is the stop plunger. Though make sure to pull it out before pushing fluid up from the caliper, launched the plug across the garage lol
And they always cost a whole lot more than viable off the shelf alternatives. Bike tool companies make Macgyvers out of us cheap wrenchers. My bottom bracket needs a pin spanner and I'm so close to just trying out a fork with some bent tines.
Although a very thorough educational video, this is a tedious process and for someone like me who would be doing this once a year, the probability of meeting an accident is quite high. Therefore, I'd let the mechanic at the bike dealership do it for me who probably bleeds ten brakes in a day and, hence, has good muscle memory for the job. But I will be watching him do it and make him follow the procedures in this video.
Hey dude, just saw your clips on de- airing hydraulic brakes. I got a good laugh. Wasting of time and money. I have been doing major brake service for trucks and cars. I just did my brakes for my Cannondale. Just top up from the top and release from the bleeder below. That's it. Less then 3 minutes. The lines are packed and good to go.
brilliant Kelvin, you are a park tool god m8, i have been thinking about doing this for a couple of weeks now but my mtb is pretty new & not had much riding done on it, also wondered if bleeding would be the same as a car, either way so glad that this video is out there, thanks kelvin,
This is the most ridiculous bleed process. At a point I expected a rain dance or something to be part of it. It did work perfectly. Thanks for the video.
No kidding - having learned to bleed car brakes as a kid, then had Hope Mono Mini's on my last bike of 20 years, imagine my surprise when I switched my Fargo to flat bars, chose BL-M6000 brakes, then found out what a BS system Shimano have come up with, presumably just so they can sell more bits of plastic crap.. Regretting my choice now..
Certain lever set screws / bite point adjustment screws, when set to their maximum extent, close the hydraulic system. Find the max point as described at 2:04, then reverse a turn or two to be safe. Your shop floor will thank you.
Omg you hero! I only wish I had seen this comment earlier. Could have saved me much frustration and mess! I couldn't understand what I was doing wrong having never bled brakes before. This solved my issue completely :)
Honestly while this is a great video, it's over complicated. I could see doing this if you can't get the normal version to work. Lookup the shorter shimano bleed videos, one of Santa Cruz's race mechanics has a famous one. It's way easier than this and almost always works. But for a total technical process, park went through literally everything.
I bleeded my brakes yesterday before watching this, most videos just speak about pushing oil from bottom to top only, which will end up you having spongy and weak brakes, the steps of pushing again from top to bottom, pressing and quickly opening/closing couple of times, adjusting 30 degrees other side to get all bubbles, etc, today's evening I will try to fix my brakes again, wish me luck :D Note: I am also suffering from a case where 1 piston is extending more than the other one, not sure why, I cleaned and lubed them but still there 1 piston that is popping out more than another one
Great video. I have been wondering why not to use syringe attached to the caliper to create little vacuum in the system and get oil from funnel at the lever to the caliper instead of just pushing the lever and opening bleed nipple?
Because you already have the lever on that side as a pump. And because syringes don’t pull a vacuum very well and if they did it would cause bubbles, rather than bleeding them out.
On 1:46 the brake is installed INCORRECTLY! There's a 160mm rotor but a +20mm adaptor for a 180mm rotor. The pads won't touch the rotor braking surface sufficiently if ridden like that!!
So I just picked up a bleed kit at my local shop, but It didnt come with a syringe or tube thingy. Could I (in theory) just put the funnel with the mineral oil into the levers and squeeze them?
You will never get all the air out, especially for the rear brake, where the hose is longer. But truth be told, the brakes will probably still work acceptable, if you manage to make the lever feel firm when you squeeze. Just take care on the first ride, start slow until you're sure you can rely on the brakes.
After doing the bleed I like to put a little positive pressure in the system with the syringe. I can adjust the travel of the lever before engagement this way. The Shimano adjustment at the lever doesn't do squat and I hate a lot of travel before the brakes engage and having to keep the levers so far from the bar.
I don't get it... First you fill up the brake line from the caliper up to lever with clean fluid. After that you let the fresh fluid run from lever to caliper into a disposal bag? Why do you do it 2 ways?
Yeah me aswel.! find it much easier and get better results.! Its nice to flush a couple of seringes of fresh fluid through anyway and seems to get most of the air out doing that..then do the rest from the lever
Great video overall with one minor problem; leaving that bleed screw in the same container with brake pads can contamine them with mineral oil...otherwise super nicely explained
7:06 I cannot reproduce this effect with our MT7120 SLX 4 piston brakes. When I squeeze the lever, a trickle of fluid leaks out into the waste bag and air bleeds back into the system. Any thoughts?
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
Are we supposed to do the bottom to top bleed (step 4) and the top to bottom bleed (step 6), or are those intended for 2 different systems? In other videos I see people doing one type of bleed or the other, then going to the brake burping step. This video seems to suggest that we need to do both... is that correct?
This is good but I really, really wish somepne did a longer version with each step explaining WHY each step is being performed with some explanation of how the brake works so it makes sense. I have to take my brakes back to be bled so often I really need to learn how to do it myself. Need a beginners versus of this.
@@stephenallen4635 1) he's pumping fresh oil from caliper to the funnel. Isn't this enough to bleed the brakes? He's doing another step 2) where he is pumping oil from funnel ...why is that...fresh oil is already there.
@@ninjapyro9969 when you squeeze the level youre pushing the plunger down while the fluid is still trying to enter the pipe, pushing it helps draw the fluid in against the pressure of their air, when you release it sucks the fluid into the plunger space helping prevent bubbles.
@@aaauto as the fluids going up on the first pass there can still be air bubbles caught in pockets near the bottom either in the space near the caliper or in any kinks there might be in the hose, when you draw fluid through the other direction it pushes them out the other end
In order to install the new silver type of compression sleeve that is delivered with the BKM-1.2 kit now, first check if you need to deburr the edges of the sleeve. Then, apply a thin layer of silicon grease to the end of the hose to make it slide into the compression sleeve effortlessly. Kind of a Crisco situation here since the silver sleeve is a very tight fit and without grease the hose appears to be impossible to insert. Make sure you clean all excess grease afterwards in order to not contaminate your brake fluid later on.
Because you need to release the pressure inside the circuit and you do it when you open it to the atmosphere, you can only do that with an open system like the plastic bag, if you use the syringe the circuit continues closed and the oil will not go out
@@mariomata9663 Why is it necessary to use a 2nd syringe for a SRAM brake system? (see park tools other video) th-cam.com/video/bOUbUtaYaOE/w-d-xo.html Is it due to the brake fluid?
Generally, especially for mineral systems, just keep riding. Once every three-four years would not be outrageous. The important thing is that if the system is bleed and the fluid is dirty, be sure then to flush it out.
You are unsure? Did you happen to go to the manufacturer's website and read there version of the process? It is exactly as described here. Step 5 on and everything. He's not complicating it, he's following the manufacturer's directions. We could get away with it without doing a gravity bleed, but when you're a major company like Park tool putting a video up about how to, it's best not to contradict the manufacturer.
Can I use Maxima Mineral Brake Oil on my Shimano brakes? If yes, can it be mixed with Shimano mineral oil or should the existing oil be flushed out first?
People have done that. The manufacturers like their own fluid of course. However, people have been know to use other mineral brands. Flushing is always good.
Hi all, i have LT-Woo system and my rear caller is faulty, i would like a recomendation on what shimano system can i place, need rear hydraulic brake set plug and play for less than R1000. Thanks
Love all the Park Tool Videos! Greetings from Germany where we love precise engineering-Instructions! I do have one question: I have Shimano SLX M7100 brakes. After the whole process, my front brake lever is responding super directly/sharp as I prefer it to do so. My lever for the rear brake is responding slightly softer. I read a few times that this is very often the case, that rear brake lever is always a bit softer when braking. Is that true? Or is it more likely that there is somewhere still some air bubbles hidden. The only "mistake" that i can come up with is, that my bledding nipple was facing to the ground when I did the part with quickly opening and closing the bleed nipple while a strap is pulling the lever. But the syringe was facing upward just like in the video. Might this have been a factor, why the rear lever reacts minimal softer/less sharp After the whole process? Thanks in advance!
How are you supposed to do the last step with a caliper that has a bleed port but no bleed nipple 7:54? Since it takes a threaded fitting and doesn't have the ability to open and close quickly, there's no way to pressurize the hose?
I think that is only in the case when the first bleeding from the caliper to the lever comes out dirty, so you have to bleed it again from the top so as to make sure the system is full bled and clean.
Well, Shimano defined this process in its dealer's manual like so. But I can confirm that doing the bleeding one way (as one would do on a car brake) isn't always sufficient.
Mine have issues with trapped air from day 1. I’m going to have to bleed both ways. To get the air out of mine. From caliper to lever is just not working. Still got air trapped.
Shimano also has a good manual for this procedure, the video looks more complicated (since it covers different brake types) than it actually is. Hydraulic brakes using mineral oil (no Dot4) don't need bleeding really often, Dot 4 mixes with water (from humidity) over time but mineral oil mixes only marginally with water and can be left in the brake for years. Since it's normally a closed system you typically don't get air in as long as you don't disconnect brake hoses. Especially simpler models like the MT200 are also simple to bleed, they adjust the play of the pads by themself and if the pads are worn you just have to push the piston back (for example with a screw driver between the worn pads) and put new pads in.
This is by far the best instructional brake bleed video I have ever seen. Bravo guys!!
Simple and easy to follow. Takes the mystery and expense out of bike maintenance.
I can do it
I can learn a new skill
I can save money
I can justify buying more tools
Same here, although I’m not sure about having saved money. I spent like $700 worth of tools to save around $50 at my local bike shop.
Admittedly, those tools will continue to save me money, but it will be at least 3 years of DIY servicing until I break even 😅
@@onegrapefruitlover you don't need $700 worth of tools, you need the tools you use for your bike/s
I have around $100 worth of tools they all fit in a box and I can take apart and service everything on my bike, often, on other people's bikes as well.
If you don't have an air fork, you don't need a shock pump, for example.
I counted at least 4 steps that no other brake bleed tutorials I've seen on yt have included (doing the 42 degree angle, flicking the brake line, applying brake pressure and doing the quick open/close thing, burping the brake... etc). I definitely prefer this type of tutorial versus the "good enough" kind.
It’s interesting that no other bike tutorials do this. It’s standard practice on motos, cars, and motorcycles. I’ve always wondered why no one else includes it.
The serynge holder is the unsung hero of the bleeding procedure.
Any flashlight holder will do same job
Or zip tie
@@starballs2009 Velcro straps are good for temp situations. Come in handy to keep lever pressed when needed too
@@smallhatshatethetruth7933 yeah velcro is definitely better than a zip tie but both will work fine even for pressing the lever
Toe straps. They’re great for all sorts of things besides strapping your toes.
I swear this channel has the most thorough instructions, everything else is just down to individual technical skill + experience.
You have me convinced to just goto the bike shop
Loool 😆
I bought a kit and now I regret buying the kit.
Just took my bike into a REI and they got it done for just a little more than what the kit was worth. Yeah, I will never bleed my own brakes again.
This is why i still stick to mechanical cuz its easier
I work on cars and this just seems like too much, imagine tilt the car at a 30 degree angle. Remove the caliper to bleed it. lol
I see skilled senior with humble vocabulary and moustache, I susbscribed instantly😎
That senior is Calvin, he is a Park Tools legend, author, mechanic trainer, total expert.
@@wammo12345
Very awesome 🙂
Senior? Calvin is 27 years old!
Respecto boomero
Hi Luke you have to do it for you in your room I have
Lots of people (including myself) miss the point where you put a strap on the lever then open and close the bleed port. This is vital for a firm lever! If you miss this point you'll have a brake with no air but not enough fluid and pressure to give a firm feel.
thank you! I've got no air bubbles left in my system but cant get my brakes to feel firm going to try this.
@@molley17 cool! How do they feel?
Love the in depth. Done it so many times now but watch this instruction everytime again
Please don't be intimidated by there being so many steps in this bleeding process. It's a lot easier than it looks, get those hands dirty.
Gotta be honest bro.... this is intimidating. I just got my first downhiller with hydro brakes and have never serviced hyydros.... 30+ years of mountain riding and I’ve always had rimmy’s for brakes .... wayyyyy more easy to maintain but hydro discs are the sh*t !
Found this one first, felt a bit intimidated due to seemingly many steps. Followed the Mountain bike global network one.. straight to the point and into the action. Very easy.
@@oneangryme I agree that most of the time this is more than needed, but I'm really happy to have the extra steps laid out. I do my wrenching at 140 ft above sea level. My local rides max out at a few hundred feet, and I don't use the brakes for more than a few minutes at a time, but sometimes ride at 8- 10,000 ft. Brakes that work fine in the desert sometimes get quite dodgy when I get to Telluride, Durango or Big Bear without the extra attention to detail.
It is true that not all these steps are needed all the time, but they assure a better bleed - especially if you are having trouble with the Shimano wandering bite point problem.
I mean, it’s basically a fairly simple process - first push clean oil from bottom to top, then push clean oil through again from top to bottom while removing all the air.
OMG. I actually did it and it works great. I couldn't believe it. Best video tutorial ever!
Best brake bleed video on youtube. I've watched a bunch and this is clear, crisp, to the point, professional, and with some great detail on stuff that other videos skim over. Thank you!!
These are the best videos I've found so far
I want this guy to live in my garage!
Sounds like a kidnapping scenario.
Don't forget to ask to bring the tools as well
I'd sleep with Calvin
@@fergusdonaghy3124 Calvin is a Shaolin Monk and swore an oath of celibacy. Sorry to disappoint.
a lot bullshit in this video. compare only what is indicated in the shimano videos
You guys are absolutely AMAZING, THE BEST. I LOVE YOU. Im kinda newbie and dumb about bikes and such. Especially whole brake system was kinda hard to understand for me, but i wanted to fix myself. I was reading some articles etc, few videos and it didnt help me at all.But every each one of your videos is so well made, nicely and easy explained.. Only thank to your videos, i got it all now. I fixed everything i needed. Simple, easy and compared to some services very cheap. Thanks so much. Amazing job, good luck fellas.
Just followed this process for the rear brake on my Giant Anthem, as it was feeling very spongy, and it worked like a charm! This was very clean compared to other methods I’ve done in the past too!
Yup, me too. Previously, I followed a different video and never got that firm feel. Just did front and back on my Anthem Advanced following this video exactly and my brakes are perfect for once!
Anyone else caught out by "bring the lever away from the grip as far as it will go"? Turns out my lever fully detaches! And it feels very difficult to reattach.
Yet to resolve, but hopefully I can work out what to do soon.
As with everyone else, otherwise immensely grateful for this and all of your videos!
Happened to me; luckily it was only a couple of mins of finagling to get it screwed back in (had to squeeze the brake a bit and screw it at the same time).
Yeh this was a awesome explanation and by far the best directional video that is done in a very easy to understand tutorial!
Brilliant, thanks for making this process so so clear for a beginner.
it's a year since this video dropped, and ya'll just save me a $100 visit to the bike shop. Thank you Calvin & Truman for these amazing video how-to's.
Calvin is the Jeff Cavalier of bike mechanics.
Very good and helpful vid. Easy to follow once you get going. Just finished doing a full bleed. Old oil was SO dirty.
Couldn't ask for a more perfect explanation, thanks!
bang on i was struggling to get that last bit of air out of the system with my shimanos and just tilting the bike and the resovior helped a lot, thanks
Can you do just this part first to see if it corrects the issues? Then do a full bleed later if brakes are still unresponsive?
@@danielbromley849 Yes.
Kit paid for itself after two bikes. I'll be doing this every spring. Got the process down to 15 min.
My favorite feature of the kit is the stop plunger. Though make sure to pull it out before pushing fluid up from the caliper, launched the plug across the garage lol
Much more in depth than the GCN guide on this subject.
Bicycle tool companies must have the record for the number of bespoke specialty tools required to do any kind of maintenance.
And they always cost a whole lot more than viable off the shelf alternatives. Bike tool companies make Macgyvers out of us cheap wrenchers. My bottom bracket needs a pin spanner and I'm so close to just trying out a fork with some bent tines.
Y'all are definitely not mechanics 😂
Best tutorial on TH-cam
Minor thing but I'd resist putting the lever bled port in the same pot as the pads. Lessen the chances of contamination.
Although a very thorough educational video, this is a tedious process and for someone like me who would be doing this once a year, the probability of meeting an accident is quite high. Therefore, I'd let the mechanic at the bike dealership do it for me who probably bleeds ten brakes in a day and, hence, has good muscle memory for the job. But I will be watching him do it and make him follow the procedures in this video.
@@reclusepilgrim I highly doubt he would do that like in this video... He will likely just push the fluid from the bottom and that's it.
I came here to say this
Hey dude, just saw your clips on de- airing hydraulic brakes. I got a good laugh. Wasting of time and money. I have been doing major brake service for trucks and cars. I just did my brakes for my Cannondale. Just top up from the top and release from the bleeder below. That's it. Less then 3 minutes. The lines are packed and good to go.
Yes you could essentially start at 6:09 and it would have the same effect.
Big thank you. Mine turned out great. No adjustable bleed nipple because it’s a cheap brand, so I had to skip that step. Still fine.
Good video, very helpful. Got quite lot messier at my first try today 😂
But it worked well.
What i dont get,m why bleeding twice??
brilliant Kelvin, you are a park tool god m8,
i have been thinking about doing this for a couple of weeks now but my mtb is pretty new & not had much riding done on it, also wondered if bleeding would be the same as a car, either way so glad that this video is out there, thanks kelvin,
I thought I had it rough with my road bike calipers. My condolences.
Lots of bleeding, Lever etc... 👍🏾🤠 Great jobs fallaz.
This is the most ridiculous bleed process. At a point I expected a rain dance or something to be part of it. It did work perfectly. Thanks for the video.
No kidding - having learned to bleed car brakes as a kid, then had Hope Mono Mini's on my last bike of 20 years, imagine my surprise when I switched my Fargo to flat bars, chose BL-M6000 brakes, then found out what a BS system Shimano have come up with, presumably just so they can sell more bits of plastic crap.. Regretting my choice now..
Certain lever set screws / bite point adjustment screws, when set to their maximum extent, close the hydraulic system. Find the max point as described at 2:04, then reverse a turn or two to be safe. Your shop floor will thank you.
Omg you hero! I only wish I had seen this comment earlier. Could have saved me much frustration and mess! I couldn't understand what I was doing wrong having never bled brakes before. This solved my issue completely :)
Me too! My god I was wondering why nothing would drain out the caliper, it took hours and mineral oil everywhere until I worked out it!
This right there is why you should take the bike to a local bike shop.
Yes, sir.
This is just a bike, no a car with ABS systems (even there the brake fluid can be changed at home)
Honestly while this is a great video, it's over complicated. I could see doing this if you can't get the normal version to work. Lookup the shorter shimano bleed videos, one of Santa Cruz's race mechanics has a famous one. It's way easier than this and almost always works. But for a total technical process, park went through literally everything.
I bleeded my brakes yesterday before watching this, most videos just speak about pushing oil from bottom to top only, which will end up you having spongy and weak brakes, the steps of pushing again from top to bottom, pressing and quickly opening/closing couple of times, adjusting 30 degrees other side to get all bubbles, etc, today's evening I will try to fix my brakes again, wish me luck :D
Note: I am also suffering from a case where 1 piston is extending more than the other one, not sure why, I cleaned and lubed them but still there 1 piston that is popping out more than another one
To really fix it then remove the pistons check how they look and maybe replace the sealing rings
PRO! I'm bringing all my brakes to Calvin after watching this vid.
Respect for u sir! U are profesional mechanic😎
Nice work,,,with all the tools and gadgets in the world
When the caliper work is done, do you put back the brake pads and the front wheel right away or after finalizing the lever work?
Wow.. this seems like a lot of fun :) I think I’d gladly pay someone to do this for me.
That's why he has 513k subscribers
As always, a fantastic education.
A clear cup! Simple yet genius! 😂
Thanks for your excellent videos they’re all so informative.
Thanks for Bucharest România 😇
Great video. I have been wondering why not to use syringe attached to the caliper to create little vacuum in the system and get oil from funnel at the lever to the caliper instead of just pushing the lever and opening bleed nipple?
Because you already have the lever on that side as a pump. And because syringes don’t pull a vacuum very well and if they did it would cause bubbles, rather than bleeding them out.
On 1:46 the brake is installed INCORRECTLY! There's a 160mm rotor but a +20mm adaptor for a 180mm rotor. The pads won't touch the rotor braking surface sufficiently if ridden like that!!
What is wrong then?
@@xGodfreyy The adapter should be left off. Or alternatively a 180mm rotor should be installed.
Don't diss Calvin
After the bleed was done he left it out when he reinstalled the caliper
I think they did that for demonstration purposes
Greetings from Bucharest România 🇧🇪
Thank you, this video has been extremely helpful in convincing me not to get hydraulic brakes.
Good looking bleed kit Calvin
So I just picked up a bleed kit at my local shop, but It didnt come with a syringe or tube thingy. Could I (in theory) just put the funnel with the mineral oil into the levers and squeeze them?
You will never get all the air out, especially for the rear brake, where the hose is longer. But truth be told, the brakes will probably still work acceptable, if you manage to make the lever feel firm when you squeeze. Just take care on the first ride, start slow until you're sure you can rely on the brakes.
After doing the bleed I like to put a little positive pressure in the system with the syringe. I can adjust the travel of the lever before engagement this way. The Shimano adjustment at the lever doesn't do squat and I hate a lot of travel before the brakes engage and having to keep the levers so far from the bar.
I don't get it... First you fill up the brake line from the caliper up to lever with clean fluid. After that you let the fresh fluid run from lever to caliper into a disposal bag? Why do you do it 2 ways?
Haha thought the same thing. I was like what did i just watch?
Michiel Nooren: because It’s often a bear to get all the air out. It’s an indictment of the design of bicycle brakes.
I only do it caliper to lever. So far so good.
Yeah me aswel.! find it much easier and get better results.! Its nice to flush a couple of seringes of fresh fluid through anyway and seems to get most of the air out doing that..then do the rest from the lever
Maybe you get the bubbles out that you accidentally injected with the syringe? But it does seem like a a double check.
Buen video una consulta es lo mismo para slx??
Thanks! The process is the same for SLX.
Great video,great mechanic and an awesome’stache!
Great video overall with one minor problem; leaving that bleed screw in the same container with brake pads can contamine them with mineral oil...otherwise super nicely explained
7:06 I cannot reproduce this effect with our MT7120 SLX 4 piston brakes. When I squeeze the lever, a trickle of fluid leaks out into the waste bag and air bleeds back into the system.
Any thoughts?
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
Nothing to worry about, but don't use a scissors to push back the pistons - especially if you have ceramic ones.
Are we supposed to do the bottom to top bleed (step 4) and the top to bottom bleed (step 6), or are those intended for 2 different systems? In other videos I see people doing one type of bleed or the other, then going to the brake burping step. This video seems to suggest that we need to do both... is that correct?
This is good but I really, really wish somepne did a longer version with each step explaining WHY each step is being performed with some explanation of how the brake works so it makes sense. I have to take my brakes back to be bled so often I really need to learn how to do it myself. Need a beginners versus of this.
Ask me which parts you're wondering about and ill get you the reasons why they're done.
if you could give the timestamps that would help
@@stephenallen4635 7:03 step i dont see why its there
@@stephenallen4635 1) he's pumping fresh oil from caliper to the funnel. Isn't this enough to bleed the brakes? He's doing another step 2) where he is pumping oil from funnel ...why is that...fresh oil is already there.
@@ninjapyro9969 when you squeeze the level youre pushing the plunger down while the fluid is still trying to enter the pipe, pushing it helps draw the fluid in against the pressure of their air, when you release it sucks the fluid into the plunger space helping prevent bubbles.
@@aaauto as the fluids going up on the first pass there can still be air bubbles caught in pockets near the bottom either in the space near the caliper or in any kinks there might be in the hose, when you draw fluid through the other direction it pushes them out the other end
Perfectly demonstrated...thank you
Do you think you can use normal mineral oil that you can get at the store?
this is so professional
Do a video for Magura brakes!
Coming soon!
In order to install the new silver type of compression sleeve that is delivered with the BKM-1.2 kit now, first check if you need to deburr the edges of the sleeve. Then, apply a thin layer of silicon grease to the end of the hose to make it slide into the compression sleeve effortlessly. Kind of a Crisco situation here since the silver sleeve is a very tight fit and without grease the hose appears to be impossible to insert. Make sure you clean all excess grease afterwards in order to not contaminate your brake fluid later on.
Excelente video, muy buen kit de sangrado como todas las herramientas Park Tool. Greetings from Spain
I've got a question. Watched quite a few vids on this and nobody mentioned bringing the lever outwards. What is the reason for this ? Trapped air ?
What if using the syringe intead of the plastic bag to make the oil flow up and down until no more bubbles exit the system?
That is usually done mostly.
Because you need to release the pressure inside the circuit and you do it when you open it to the atmosphere, you can only do that with an open system like the plastic bag, if you use the syringe the circuit continues closed and the oil will not go out
@@mariomata9663 Why is it necessary to use a 2nd syringe for a SRAM brake system?
(see park tools other video)
th-cam.com/video/bOUbUtaYaOE/w-d-xo.html
Is it due to the brake fluid?
Mario Mata He can do this if the plunger is removed from the syringe.
Great video
I just scored the BKM bleed kit
Thanks
Very good instructions! Thanks for the service and comprehensive video!
Nice work
When exactly i need to change this oil? Pls some one teach me 🙏. How many time in one year?
Generally, especially for mineral systems, just keep riding. Once every three-four years would not be outrageous. The important thing is that if the system is bleed and the fluid is dirty, be sure then to flush it out.
@@parktool Thanks so much my friend🤝
Me after watching this DIY video: Yes hello. When’s your next available appointment?
Not sure why but you complicated the process
You are unsure? Did you happen to go to the manufacturer's website and read there version of the process? It is exactly as described here. Step 5 on and everything. He's not complicating it, he's following the manufacturer's directions. We could get away with it without doing a gravity bleed, but when you're a major company like Park tool putting a video up about how to, it's best not to contradict the manufacturer.
Why do you start with the "reverse" bleed from the caliper to the master cylinder?
New brake hose installed with newish caliper and older lever. I can't get fluid to flow from the funnel to the brake caliper. What did I do wrong?
I have heard you should bring the lever all the way in for the bleed is that false??
Great tutorial, thank you! Question: Why is the funnel adapter purple and not Park Tool Blue?
I think it is because there is multiple funnel adapters as it is a universal bleed kit so they are colour coded
Best tutorial
I'm squeezing the syringe but the liquid is not flowing. Are you sure the bleed screw needs to be turned only 1 half turn?
Can I use Maxima Mineral Brake Oil on my Shimano brakes? If yes, can it be mixed with Shimano mineral oil or should the existing oil be flushed out first?
People have done that. The manufacturers like their own fluid of course. However, people have been know to use other mineral brands. Flushing is always good.
Top quality video. Thanks!
very informative. Thanks. I look forward to bleed my breaks when its a time...
Hi all, i have LT-Woo system and my rear caller is faulty, i would like a recomendation on what shimano system can i place, need rear hydraulic brake set plug and play for less than R1000. Thanks
Love all the Park Tool Videos! Greetings from Germany where we love precise engineering-Instructions!
I do have one question:
I have Shimano SLX M7100 brakes. After the whole process, my front brake lever is responding super directly/sharp as I prefer it to do so.
My lever for the rear brake is responding slightly softer.
I read a few times that this is very often the case, that rear brake lever is always a bit softer when braking.
Is that true? Or is it more likely that there is somewhere still some air bubbles hidden.
The only "mistake" that i can come up with is, that my bledding nipple was facing to the ground when I did the part with quickly opening and closing the bleed nipple while a strap is pulling the lever. But the syringe was facing upward just like in the video.
Might this have been a factor, why the rear lever reacts minimal softer/less sharp After the whole process?
Thanks in advance!
Great video
Great video thank you
Thank you
VERY PROFESSIONAL.
Wow, this is so much more work than my mechanical disks :(. Buying a new bike so going to have to put up with this I guess.
The mineral oil can be left in the system relatively long, it don't get contaminated with water like Dot 4 in cars.
Or just buy a sram brake and save yourself like half the steps. I now have shimano and i just realized ill just let the mechanic bleed the shimanos.
@@florianohl4035 too late lol
How are you supposed to do the last step with a caliper that has a bleed port but no bleed nipple 7:54? Since it takes a threaded fitting and doesn't have the ability to open and close quickly, there's no way to pressurize the hose?
What an amazing video, n here's me thinking I know how to bleed brakes adequately! Fantastic covered everything, so easy to follow
Probably the longest, most pain in the ass bleed procedure ever...
Why do we need to pump the fluid from the bottom up and then again from top down? Wouldn't one or the other be adequate?
I think that is only in the case when the first bleeding from the caliper to the lever comes out dirty, so you have to bleed it again from the top so as to make sure the system is full bled and clean.
Well, Shimano defined this process in its dealer's manual like so.
But I can confirm that doing the bleeding one way (as one would do on a car brake) isn't always sufficient.
Mine have issues with trapped air from day 1. I’m going to have to bleed both ways. To get the air out of mine. From caliper to lever is just not working. Still got air trapped.
May I ask what is the point of the last step: Holding the brake lever with a cable tie and rapidly opening and closing the bleed nipple?
I guess it creates a rapid movement of the fluid inside the caliper that might help knocking out any trapped bubbles.
how often should you go through all this rigamaroll?
It depends on the system and use but every year to every other year.
I ride my bike once a week at most. Just day to day commute. Nothing hardcore. How often should I bleed my brakes?
It can very of course by at least every other year.
That was a rocket science
Shimano also has a good manual for this procedure, the video looks more complicated (since it covers different brake types) than it actually is.
Hydraulic brakes using mineral oil (no Dot4) don't need bleeding really often, Dot 4 mixes with water (from humidity) over time but mineral oil mixes only marginally with water and can be left in the brake for years. Since it's normally a closed system you typically don't get air in as long as you don't disconnect brake hoses.
Especially simpler models like the MT200 are also simple to bleed, they adjust the play of the pads by themself and if the pads are worn you just have to push the piston back (for example with a screw driver between the worn pads) and put new pads in.