Looking good guys we are looking to buy a used trailer to make a camper out of we just take trips right now hope to go full time one day so excited to see what it's going to look like when finished keep at it one day at a time
Nice start! Yes there are many ways to build a CTC. That is joy of doing it yourself. Also I may have to try that saw on the foam board next time. I used my table saw. While fast and accurate it made one heck of a mess in the garage. Looking forward to the next video.
Feel for you guys trying to find materials, prices are outrageous compared to 3 months ago, looking good, can't wait to see the finished product.....ignore the arm chair inspectors LOL!
Lookin good y’all. I did a 7x12 a few years ago and I soooo want to do another one - but maybe a 16’. However, the wife loves the one we have and gets 😡 when I talk about it 😁. Ok another note - I did our entire first floor of our house in the the same tongue & grove boards you are about to use! The ceilings were (sp?) stippled and we just didn’t like it. I gotta tell ya, everyone who visits “loves” the ceiling!!, so I know your camper will look as great as our house. Be safe! Have fun! and move forward!!! Scott - Metro Atalanta.
for my build i used a table saw to rip all of my foam board insulation. it rips quick and will save you a ton of time. and using the rip fence, every piece is perfectly square. i realize you guys are building on the road, but purchase a cheapy table saw from harbor freight and just resell it when the build is complete. i think the investment will pay for itself in time saved cutting. looking forward to additional build videos. i watched all of them from the first build. amazing you have finished one, and already started another. i am still only 30 or 40 percent complete on ours, and i started during the middle of your first one. take care guys.
We used a table saw on the last one and we have access to one here. The only problem with it, it won't rip as wide as we need in some areas and, we're finding the roof bows are not at consistent widths at both ends. So, since I'm a little on the "anal" side, we're basically hand scribing each piece so it fits tight as possible. Guess it's my addiction. 😀
If ya guys are 50-60 miles south of Savannah you can also check out the Lowes in Hinesville. It may be closer for y'all. I work in Savannah so if you need help just let me know. I live a couple miles up I-16.
I'm still looking for our trailer but once the build begins I plan to use a layer of cork underlayment on the ceiling, walls, & floor. It provides a thermal break and has high insulation & sound deadening properties. I'm still debating whether I'll use cork flooring panels or vinyl flooring. The 5/16" underlayment is economically priced & comes in rolls but the floor tiles cost a bit more than vinyl planking does per square foot. A lot of RV'ers are using the cork underlayment as the base layer for their radiant floor heating systems.
I know you guys are on a budget so I will pass along a great Culver’s tip. Adults can order kids combos as well. You can even upgrade the fry to a med or large for just a little more money. Burgers are the same size. They will do the deluxe burger for an additional .20 (what I get). Kids combo comes with a free ice cream and a coupon where you collect 10 and get a free kids combo. I love how you don’t let your fixed income prevent you from enjoying your retirement. The new trailer is looking great. Take care
Hi Bill & Deb! I am revisiting some of your videos for tips and tricks on building out a trailer. I understand that the trailer studs are inconsistent spacing but can you tell me if your wall studs are on 16" and roof bows are 24" on center. I am looking at the video at the 14:07 min mark and what is going on with the wall studs so close together? I really enjoy your videos, the content is very helpful and the way you to work together is great. By the way the trailer turned out wonderful viewing it here in 2023!!
Hey Bill, Deb, I snagged you a pump in your Amazon wish list. Don't fill up on too many ribs. We will have bbq ready for you when you get to Minnesota. We need to work out a campground at some point but it can wait. Enjoying the videos and I would much rather donate to your build as a thank you than pay Disney for the crap they stream. Hope you are both well and tolerating the heat. Takr care of one another and try to squeeze in some fun every once in a while.. See you in a couple months! 74 degree weather! - Paul, Julie, and Ms Lydia.
I think since I paid for it via your wishlist it's up to you to grab it out of your cart and direct it where you want amazon to send it. let me know if I am incorrect. Otherwise enjoy!
I must not be seeing what I'm supposed to. I don't want your money going to waste. Per my info the pump is still in my wish list and not in the cart. Just fyi
That was our intention as well. But, we found the metal studs to be out of plumb. The width of each cavity varied as much as 1/2 inch from top to bottom. That necessitated measuring each cavity at the top and bottom, then marking the foam board accordingly and then hand cutting each one with our multi tool. It took a little extra time, but we ended up with a tight friction fit in each cavity, thereby eliminating the need for glue or tape.
Hello from Yuma, Arizona, Thanks for the videos. I just had a local shop destroy the frame of my 38 ft fifth wheel and I am living my last week in it now before taking it to a dump. It will never get me the 3000 miles i have to eventually go to get home to Ontario. 40 grand down the tubes because of one dishonest, incompetent RV repair shop. So I am now shopping for a 16x7 cargo trailer to convert into a camper. I had no idea a week ago that I would be in this situation, and am now consuming TH-cam videos on how to proceed. Thanks for your help.
Looks like a great start! Georgia will be a killer in that box soon, so stay hydrated and run some fans. Maybe work early, siesta, & then work in late afternoon. Best of luck on this build! And Bill- how's your head healing up? All good?
I have a church family in and around hinesville. if you get in a bind, reach out to us. we will either assist you directly or find you some assistance.
Hi guys, I have a question. I love the way the floor insulation looks. I know you explained how you did it further down in these comments. But for some reason, I still can't get my head around it. Would you be so kind to explain to this old man what is holding the insulation up? When you pulled the 3/4 sheathing up you are looking at a steel floor joist 16 inches on center. The insulation gets cut in between the joist so what's holding it up? Thanks again for all you do. I am really interested. Jack
Hey Guys, Sorry to hear that the Red isn't happening. I have a cargo trailer on order that is a different company thats supposed to be ready in august ? Got a message today that red isn't avail. . So anyway , i was wondering about sources for Graphics for the exterior ? Thanks, Mark
So all of the cross-member portions of your floor are uninsulated (aside from the R-1 or so provided by the wood)? interesting. It probably makes little difference in the South and South-Central parts of the country. My travel trailers have all had mostly uninsulated floor and wall framing. That thermal bridging seemed to suck a lot of energy past the insulation in the cavities, given how much propane or a/c they had to use to hold a comfortable temperature. I have my interior walls bolted or screwed to the floor and roof framing in my cargo trailer, but otherwise float the finish floor on full-coverage insulation, the top layer of which is cork. I am using mine in the north, though. (I even have electric floor heat under portions of the floor that keeps those areas ultra-comfortable on bitter mornings outside if I am plugged in somewhere, or it's sunny and I have plenty of power to spare from the panels.)
Our current trailer has zero floor insulation and we came close to not insulating the floor on this one as well. We have been in temps as low as 9° and although the floor was a little cool, it was never unbearable. "Thermal bridging through the floor is of little concern to us whereas it might be more of a concern to you, with your build. We Travel a lot, so we are striving for and acceptable compromise between adequate floor insulation and structural integrity over the long haul. I was a flooring installer for years and installing plywood directly over foam board insulation with no additional support (crossmembers) just doesn't set with me. I'm confident that if I were to install the floor in that manner, eventually, through traveling, and just plain walking on it every day will cause the foam board insulation to compress. Our finished floor will be a floating luxury vinyl plank. Now, just imagine if we were to install plywood over foam board insulation, and run screws through it to secure it down. Then, we install our beautiful luxury vinyl plank on top of that. Over time the foam board insulation begins to compress. What happens to the screw heads? Well,,,,,they work up into the luxury vinyl plank eventually ruining our flooring. We'll deal with the minimal thermal bridging instead.
@@billanddeb I have gotten and expect I will continue to get some floor compression over time. I have no fasteners in my floor system at all and have never had a problem. With everything from kitchen cabinets to a built-in futon resting on it, it’s got nowhere to go. It does require height-adjustable wall connections for everything resting on it so that they can be lowered to match any compression as needed. The coldest I full-time in is around -25F and that would start to freeze my water tanks and valves, which are all inside and also sitting on the floor, if my floor wasn’t insulated-it’s just a different application. I need to be able to comfortably stay in places like Edmonton as long as I need to in the dead of winter. My ceiling is R-23 mineral wool with a backing of roofing foam (R7 per inch).
I had an insulation business back in the day. Back then Rock wool (granted, not "mineral wool" was rated at 3 "Rs" to the inch. I'm certain that mineral wool no doubt has a higher "r" rating but it can't be a whole lot more than "rock wool" (mineral, rock, could it be, they're the same thing?), so, to achieve a 23 "r" value at 3 "Rs" to the inch (with "rock wool") you'd have to have it at least 7 1/2 inches thick. If you "compress" it down in favor of ceiling height, well, your "R" value goes down right along with it. So, based on what you've stated, you're telling me your insulated ceiling is around 8 1/2 inches thick when you add the additional foam board. I guess my next question would be, how tall is your trailer, and how tall are you?
@@billanddeb Rock wool is synonymous with mineral wool. The only thing controlling the R-value is the density of the blow at the factory. In this case, the R-23 is 5-1/2 inches thick plus the inch of roofing foam against the metal behind it to prevent condensation, so a total of 6-1/2 inches thick. The remaining height to the ceiling, after 1-1/2 inches vertically was also taken up by the floor assembly, averages about 82 inches (arched ceiling design). The trailer box is 7-1/2 ft. tall; I am 6 ft. tall. The only issue is that I would have virtually no headroom left in the shower due to the step-up to a fairly tall pan (for plumbing to stay tucked up inside underneath rather than going through the floor), so I framed a small skylight dome into the ceiling at that location (just to create headroom / no roof penetration), and it is completely foamed in, closed-cell, behind and around it for vapor impermeable insulation there. That gives me an extra 3 inches or so of headroom over the shower.
#1- I don't want to crawl around on my back trying to stick insulation between the 6 inch deep steel crossmembers. #2- We traveled 15,000 miles last year, through a variety of weather conditions. I'm mildly concerned about road grime, mud etc eventually building up on the exposed insulation #3- Although we ran wooden stringers for structural support on the inset, those wooden stringers are not directly over the steel crossmembers below. Foam board insulation is over the steel crossmembers below. Although we will have some thermal bridging with the wooden stringer on top, it will still be far less thermal bridging than with the steel crossmembers below. #4- As a bonus, we've discovered the finished floor is much quieter now with the original 3/4 inch floor, plus 3/4 inch foam board insulation and then the layer of 3/8 plywood on top of that. If you're thinking now about "added weight", keep in mind we re-used the plywood off the walls for the floor (mainly to save money) therefore, we really haven't added any extra weight (except for maybe 20 pounds of foam board) beyond what the trailer weighed when we picked it up.
Thanks, that’s actually really helpful and insightful. I may be in the process of considering to do my own conversion and am loving the depth of information you provide in your videos. Way better than others out there.
@@michaelbarber6215 thanks for your kind reply. It's been a rough week. We had a comment from someone on that video that went way beyond condescending. It's been removed. There'll be a new video soon. Stay tuned.
Watching and taking down notes.
1st what your not done yet lol. Love what you have done so far can’t wait to see more of the progress
Lol
All the best to ya'll. You are an amazing couple!
I like the way you are doing the floor insulation that will be a big plus
Looking good guys we are looking to buy a used trailer to make a camper out of we just take trips right now hope to go full time one day so excited to see what it's going to look like when finished keep at it one day at a time
Nice start! Yes there are many ways to build a CTC. That is joy of doing it yourself. Also I may have to try that saw on the foam board next time. I used my table saw. While fast and accurate it made one heck of a mess in the garage. Looking forward to the next video.
Glad I found this channel. I'm thinking about converting my cargo trailer instead of buying an RV. Keep me inspired!
Feel for you guys trying to find materials, prices are outrageous compared to 3 months ago, looking good, can't wait to see the finished product.....ignore the arm chair inspectors LOL!
Lookin good y’all. I did a 7x12 a few years ago and I soooo want to do another one - but maybe a 16’. However, the wife loves the one we have and gets 😡 when I talk about it 😁. Ok another note - I did our entire first floor of our house in the the same tongue & grove boards you are about to use! The ceilings were (sp?) stippled and we just didn’t like it. I gotta tell ya, everyone who visits “loves” the ceiling!!, so I know your camper will look as great as our house. Be safe! Have fun! and move forward!!! Scott - Metro Atalanta.
for my build i used a table saw to rip all of my foam board insulation. it rips quick and will save you a ton of time. and using the rip fence, every piece is perfectly square. i realize you guys are building on the road, but purchase a cheapy table saw from harbor freight and just resell it when the build is complete. i think the investment will pay for itself in time saved cutting.
looking forward to additional build videos. i watched all of them from the first build. amazing you have finished one, and already started another. i am still only 30 or 40 percent complete on ours, and i started during the middle of your first one.
take care guys.
We used a table saw on the last one and we have access to one here. The only problem with it, it won't rip as wide as we need in some areas and, we're finding the roof bows are not at consistent widths at both ends. So, since I'm a little on the "anal" side, we're basically hand scribing each piece so it fits tight as possible. Guess it's my addiction. 😀
Glad to see it going together for you guys!! Best of luck with the project 👍
Love you Mom and Dad
Love ya back
I can't wait to see how Deb decorates. I know it will be beautiful.
After all the work I've done on our sticks and bricks this weekend (garage door issues...yuck) I'm excited to see your progress.
Great start!! So excited for you guys!
Off to a great start on your new build. Disciplined about staying within budget. Living the dream.
If ya guys are 50-60 miles south of
Savannah you can also check out the Lowes in Hinesville. It may be closer for y'all. I work in Savannah so if you need help just let me know. I live a couple miles up I-16.
I'm still looking for our trailer but once the build begins I plan to use a layer of cork underlayment on the ceiling, walls, & floor. It provides a thermal break and has high insulation & sound deadening properties. I'm still debating whether I'll use cork flooring panels or vinyl flooring. The 5/16" underlayment is economically priced & comes in rolls but the floor tiles cost a bit more than vinyl planking does per square foot. A lot of RV'ers are using the cork underlayment as the base layer for their radiant floor heating systems.
You guys are the best!
I know you guys are on a budget so I will pass along a great Culver’s tip. Adults can order kids combos as well. You can even upgrade the fry to a med or large for just a little more money. Burgers are the same size. They will do the deluxe burger for an additional .20 (what I get). Kids combo comes with a free ice cream and a coupon where you collect 10 and get a free kids combo. I love how you don’t let your fixed income prevent you from enjoying your retirement. The new trailer is looking great. Take care
Great job on the floor insulation
Ha! We go to Pooler Lowe’s & Home Depot too a lot of the time so we can go to Culvers! We love frozen custard once we had it at Rita’s in St Augustine
Your doing a outstanding job so far !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Robert from Ohio !!!!!
Lookin 👍 you guys rock
Hi Bill & Deb! I am revisiting some of your videos for tips and tricks on building out a trailer. I understand that the trailer studs are inconsistent spacing but can you tell me if your wall studs are on 16" and roof bows are 24" on center. I am looking at the video at the 14:07 min mark and what is going on with the wall studs so close together? I really enjoy your videos, the content is very helpful and the way you to work together is great. By the way the trailer turned out wonderful viewing it here in 2023!!
Yes. The wall studs are on 16" center. The roof bows are on 24" center.
I’m finding most of what I need is available on Amazon
Our entire trailer is mostly Amazon
Hey Bill, Deb, I snagged you a pump in your Amazon wish list. Don't fill up on too many ribs. We will have bbq ready for you when you get to Minnesota. We need to work out a campground at some point but it can wait. Enjoying the videos and I would much rather donate to your build as a thank you than pay Disney for the crap they stream. Hope you are both well and tolerating the heat. Takr care of one another and try to squeeze in some fun every once in a while.. See you in a couple months! 74 degree weather! - Paul, Julie, and Ms Lydia.
Awesome, thanks email us for the shipping address iridetinyhouse@gmail.com
I think since I paid for it via your wishlist it's up to you to grab it out of your cart and direct it where you want amazon to send it. let me know if I am incorrect. Otherwise enjoy!
I must not be seeing what I'm supposed to. I don't want your money going to waste. Per my info the pump is still in my wish list and not in the cart. Just fyi
check again! lol
I think we should test it with my Amazon account as well 😝
Two thumbs up! 👍👍
Looking good!
Great progress Guys
I run my insulation through a table saw cuts so smooth
That was our intention as well. But, we found the metal studs to be out of plumb. The width of each cavity varied as much as 1/2 inch from top to bottom. That necessitated measuring each cavity at the top and bottom, then marking the foam board accordingly and then hand cutting each one with our multi tool. It took a little extra time, but we ended up with a tight friction fit in each cavity, thereby eliminating the need for glue or tape.
Don’t work to hard! But it’s coming along!
Awesome !! Great job
Hello from Yuma, Arizona,
Thanks for the videos. I just had a local shop destroy the frame of my 38 ft fifth wheel and I am living my last week in it now before taking it to a dump. It will never get me the 3000 miles i have to eventually go to get home to Ontario. 40 grand down the tubes because of one dishonest, incompetent RV repair shop.
So I am now shopping for a 16x7 cargo trailer to convert into a camper. I had no idea a week ago that I would be in this situation, and am now consuming TH-cam videos on how to proceed. Thanks for your help.
So sorry to hear about your troubles. Hope everything works out.
Wow, what happened? Good luck with the next one.
Thanks for the update!
Looks like a great start!
Georgia will be a killer in that box soon, so stay hydrated and run some fans. Maybe work early, siesta, & then work in late afternoon.
Best of luck on this build!
And Bill- how's your head healing up? All good?
Bills head is almost healed, thanks. Yes we have a fan and plenty of water.
I think I am looking at the same trailer company in south east georgia hahaha
We like our rock solid trailer
Good job guys. I am moving right along on ours as well. I am going to send you some photos in an email. Ron and Cindy from Va
Love to see the pictures
What Rock Solid dealer did y’all order your trailer from? Great build!
We went thru Renoun, but Southern Trailer Depot sells Rock Solid as well
Nice
Thanks for watching
I'm headed your way at the end of the month.
Culver’s? I love the cheese balls and butter Burger
Never had the cheese balls...hmmmm
@@billanddeb yes cheese curds they call'em but delicious. yumm
I have a church family in and around hinesville. if you get in a bind, reach out to us. we will either assist you directly or find you some assistance.
Keep chugging along!
Culver’s❤️
Hi guys, I have a question. I love the way the floor insulation looks. I know you explained how you did it further down in these comments. But for some reason, I still can't get my head around it. Would you be so kind to explain to this old man what is holding the insulation up? When you pulled the 3/4 sheathing up you are looking at a steel floor joist 16 inches on center. The insulation gets cut in between the joist so what's holding it up? Thanks again for all you do. I am really interested.
Jack
No floor pulled up, insulation on top of existing floor.
come down to Jacksonville lol - plywood degasses correct? that is why you don't want to use it? Also sell it lol
This plywood does not smell like other cargo trailer plywood. So not worried about off gas
Did you go with 16" on center for the wall studs and 24" on center for the roof bows?
Yes.
It's gonna be spectacuar!
Hey Guys, Sorry to hear that the Red isn't happening. I have a cargo trailer on order that is a different company thats supposed to be ready in august ? Got a message today that red isn't avail. . So anyway , i was wondering about sources for Graphics for the exterior ? Thanks, Mark
I found some at Amazon that I kinda like.
So all of the cross-member portions of your floor are uninsulated (aside from the R-1 or so provided by the wood)? interesting. It probably makes little difference in the South and South-Central parts of the country. My travel trailers have all had mostly uninsulated floor and wall framing. That thermal bridging seemed to suck a lot of energy past the insulation in the cavities, given how much propane or a/c they had to use to hold a comfortable temperature. I have my interior walls bolted or screwed to the floor and roof framing in my cargo trailer, but otherwise float the finish floor on full-coverage insulation, the top layer of which is cork. I am using mine in the north, though. (I even have electric floor heat under portions of the floor that keeps those areas ultra-comfortable on bitter mornings outside if I am plugged in somewhere, or it's sunny and I have plenty of power to spare from the panels.)
Our current trailer has zero floor insulation and we came close to not insulating the floor on this one as well. We have been in temps as low as 9° and although the floor was a little cool, it was never unbearable. "Thermal bridging through the floor is of little concern to us whereas it might be more of a concern to you, with your build. We Travel a lot, so we are striving for and acceptable compromise between adequate floor insulation and structural integrity over the long haul. I was a flooring installer for years and installing plywood directly over foam board insulation with no additional support (crossmembers) just doesn't set with me. I'm confident that if I were to install the floor in that manner, eventually, through traveling, and just plain walking on it every day will cause the foam board insulation to compress. Our finished floor will be a floating luxury vinyl plank. Now, just imagine if we were to install plywood over foam board insulation, and run screws through it to secure it down. Then, we install our beautiful luxury vinyl plank on top of that. Over time the foam board insulation begins to compress. What happens to the screw heads? Well,,,,,they work up into the luxury vinyl plank eventually ruining our flooring. We'll deal with the minimal thermal bridging instead.
@@billanddeb I have gotten and expect I will continue to get some floor compression over time. I have no fasteners in my floor system at all and have never had a problem. With everything from kitchen cabinets to a built-in futon resting on it, it’s got nowhere to go. It does require height-adjustable wall connections for everything resting on it so that they can be lowered to match any compression as needed. The coldest I full-time in is around -25F and that would start to freeze my water tanks and valves, which are all inside and also sitting on the floor, if my floor wasn’t insulated-it’s just a different application. I need to be able to comfortably stay in places like Edmonton as long as I need to in the dead of winter. My ceiling is R-23 mineral wool with a backing of roofing foam (R7 per inch).
I had an insulation business back in the day. Back then Rock wool (granted, not "mineral wool" was rated at 3 "Rs" to the inch. I'm certain that mineral wool no doubt has a higher "r" rating but it can't be a whole lot more than "rock wool" (mineral, rock, could it be, they're the same thing?), so, to achieve a 23 "r" value at 3 "Rs" to the inch (with "rock wool") you'd have to have it at least 7 1/2 inches thick. If you "compress" it down in favor of ceiling height, well, your "R" value goes down right along with it. So, based on what you've stated, you're telling me your insulated ceiling is around 8 1/2 inches thick when you add the additional foam board. I guess my next question would be, how tall is your trailer, and how tall are you?
I just looked up the "r" value of mineral wool. 3.7 to 4.2 per inch. That still works out to almost 7 inches when coupled with the 1 inch foam board.
@@billanddeb Rock wool is synonymous with mineral wool. The only thing controlling the R-value is the density of the blow at the factory. In this case, the R-23 is 5-1/2 inches thick plus the inch of roofing foam against the metal behind it to prevent condensation, so a total of 6-1/2 inches thick. The remaining height to the ceiling, after 1-1/2 inches vertically was also taken up by the floor assembly, averages about 82 inches (arched ceiling design). The trailer box is 7-1/2 ft. tall; I am 6 ft. tall. The only issue is that I would have virtually no headroom left in the shower due to the step-up to a fairly tall pan (for plumbing to stay tucked up inside underneath rather than going through the floor), so I framed a small skylight dome into the ceiling at that location (just to create headroom / no roof penetration), and it is completely foamed in, closed-cell, behind and around it for vapor impermeable insulation there. That gives me an extra 3 inches or so of headroom over the shower.
What’s the thought process on insulating the floor from inside the box instead of insulating it from underneath in and among the frame rails?
#1- I don't want to crawl around on my back trying to stick insulation between the 6 inch deep steel crossmembers.
#2- We traveled 15,000 miles last year, through a variety of weather conditions. I'm mildly concerned about road grime, mud etc eventually building up on the exposed insulation
#3- Although we ran wooden stringers for structural support on the inset, those wooden stringers are not directly over the steel crossmembers below. Foam board insulation is over the steel crossmembers below. Although we will have some thermal bridging with the wooden stringer on top, it will still be far less thermal bridging than with the steel crossmembers below.
#4- As a bonus, we've discovered the finished floor is much quieter now with the original 3/4 inch floor, plus 3/4 inch foam board insulation and then the layer of 3/8 plywood on top of that. If you're thinking now about "added weight", keep in mind we re-used the plywood off the walls for the floor (mainly to save money) therefore, we really haven't added any extra weight (except for maybe 20 pounds of foam board) beyond what the trailer weighed when we picked it up.
Thanks, that’s actually really helpful and insightful. I may be in the process of considering to do my own conversion and am loving the depth of information you provide in your videos. Way better than others out there.
@@michaelbarber6215 thanks for your kind reply. It's been a rough week. We had a comment from someone on that video that went way beyond condescending. It's been removed. There'll be a new video soon. Stay tuned.
Looking good!