I’ll be interested to see how the build progresses. As an option to using spray foam on the rails, cut left over wall board into strips and wedge them in and use metal exhaust fan tape to cover, you can also upgrade the inside std 3/8” plywood to 5/8” plywood. Best of luck
All these negative commenters have apparently never slept in a tent! In any way shape or fashion the way he did it was much better than a tent and still will have insulation properties.
You're dead on, this is literally to get us out of a tent. The insulation I did works great and could absolutely be done better but it is better than a tent any day rain or shine.
I used the same insulation board,1" thick because beams were 1" put the plywood walls back up in exactly the same place same screw holes, covered all seams between insulation board and beams with foil tape then topped it all with panelling,it's perfectly insulated now against direct sunlight
@@preciouscargo1792 Thanks for this video. We’re just starting to insulate our 8.5x20. It’s basically going to be our toy hauler for our sidecar bike as well as the place we will sleep while doing day trips from a KOA campground. I like your style. Similar to me, you just do what you need, not what might be perfect for others. 🤙😎
Good video, also they have red Tuck tape for sealing the insulation seams. You are trying to make a thermal barrier so being airtight will help with humidity.
Metal/Alum is a conductor of heat or cold. So it will transfer it to the next product or material. When I am building homes and we are putting on the roof , framing - sheeting and actual roof material that air space is important. Like the attic area, venting location etc...Do let the heat build up vent out. On the wall area of homes we leave about an inch and a half air space if it is brick or a 1/4 if vinyl or wood.
Right you are, if I had it to do over again I would probably leave that gap in between the metal of the trailer and insulate from there. I wanted to use reflectix to do that however they said I needed more air gap for it to be effective. Good thing is when I cool it off or heat it up it holds temp nicely. I appreciate your comment.
@@preciouscargo1792 Hi from Tenn area / Iam building out a C.T. cargo trailer and Iam just going to get a tarp made to cover over top of the C.T. for that to use as a attic/air space. In the 47 years that Ive been working in Const. I have yet to get a pro or a manufacturing rep to give me true advise with insulation products, Why?
That is a great idea, I thought of doing the same but could not think of a simple way to do it without it being a hassle to put up and take down. I would love to hear how your doing that and I'm also curious what size your C.T. is.
The set up as is performs well enough in Summer and excels in our winter weather. Radiant gaps are effective if you can get enough gap, that is why I did not go with something like Reflectix.
When it gets to freezing and below outside and you're heating the inside, your wheel well boxes will frost on the inside unless you also cover them in foam board.
I have not found this to be the case! If the temperature inside is comfortable it is impossible to the metal on the wheel wells to frost unless maybe you are heating with propane and even then I doubt it. Is this something that you have had trouble with?
You need to tape all the joints with the aluminum tape every cut every beam you gotta tape the shit out of it and make it airtight for it to work right
I have not had that problem however here in the Atlanta area it rarely gets cold enough for that to be a problem. If I had it in a colder climate I would insulate them for sure.
A mini split would be far better, the in room ac is not ideal but was the least invasive option. Keep in mind this one for me is not meant to tour the country it is meant to get me off the ground and out of a tent. That it does and very well!
Agreed, spray foam is some hateful stuff, I used it in a few places where nothing else would fit. I tried the Loctite spray foam along with the usual Great stuff and was not impressed at all with Loctite except that it was a bit more dense once cured.
Sorry but when foam is sprayed professionally you won't regret the performance. Cost $1000 To have my 8.5 x 22 foot trailer sprayed. 1 1\2 in the walls and ceilings. 3" sprayed under the trailer floor. Added strength to the whole trailer plus sealed air tight.
Yes the professional foam is a whole other ball game for sure. Great Stuff is not so great! I like the idea of doing it underneath too, I have yet to insulate underneath.
I’m trying to understand, so run the 1” runners not parallel but like across? And then insulate just the thickens of the runners but not actually have the insulation touching the exterior wall or roof? So there’s an air gap between the insulation and the exterior metal or what ever it is?
I'm sure you have,"lots of good reasons"... for doing things the way you do them,however; they may not ALL be good reasons. I believe fastening your foam board in direct contact with the metal siding is a major mistake. You should have an air space. (I know, everyone does it that way) . I would use rigid insulation with @ leSt one reflecti e side facing out. Then, each and every minor seam created by salvaging those scrap pieces together should be sealed with specialty foil tape. IF you think rigid foam board is expensive, just wait until you price foil tape. N0T insulating the floor first will prove to be a major mistake!
Thank you for the feedback and I would have kept an air gap however with only one inch of space the air gap is not sufficient to use reflectix to any effective degree, and I called the company to confirm minimum air gap needed which was 2 inches. That being said I am not trying to turn this thing into a super insulated space. Currently I can easily heat it and cool it and the insulating I did seems to be sufficient. Of course the floor is a must however that will be done at a later time. I appreciate you providing your expertise in thermal dynamics as I am clearly not one.
Just two more full sheets of insulation - $40 - and you could have done a great job. Using all the scraps just resulted in a leaky mess with air infiltration everywhere. Penny wise and pound foolish. Take your time. Do a great job, and you won’t regret it.
I’ll be interested to see how the build progresses. As an option to using spray foam on the rails, cut left over wall board into strips and wedge them in and use metal exhaust fan tape to cover, you can also upgrade the inside std 3/8” plywood to 5/8” plywood. Best of luck
All these negative commenters have apparently never slept in a tent!
In any way shape or fashion the way he did it was much better than a tent and still will have insulation properties.
You're dead on, this is literally to get us out of a tent. The insulation I did works great and could absolutely be done better but it is better than a tent any day rain or shine.
i love it . sticking to the basics . ,
I used the same insulation board,1" thick because beams were 1" put the plywood walls back up in exactly the same place same screw holes, covered all seams between insulation board and beams with foil tape then topped it all with panelling,it's perfectly insulated now against direct sunlight
That's great we have been very happy with ours also.
@@preciouscargo1792 Thanks for this video. We’re just starting to insulate our 8.5x20. It’s basically going to be our toy hauler for our sidecar bike as well as the place we will sleep while doing day trips from a KOA campground.
I like your style. Similar to me, you just do what you need, not what might be perfect for others. 🤙😎
So glad I found this Video! Subscribed right away. This will definitely help with my future cargo adventures!
Good video, also they have red Tuck tape for sealing the insulation seams. You are trying to make a thermal barrier so being airtight will help with humidity.
"spent countless hours trying to understand" SAME. That's why I'm here 😁
I have definitely learned a few things in this ongoing process. Have you decided yet what insulation to use?
Great job
I’m getting ready to build one myself !!! Here in ga too !!
Best of luck to you, share with us your experiences with it.
Metal/Alum is a conductor of heat or cold. So it will transfer it to the next product or material. When I am building homes and we are putting on the roof , framing - sheeting and actual roof material that air space is important. Like the attic area, venting location etc...Do let the heat build up vent out. On the wall area of homes we leave about an inch and a half air space if it is brick or a 1/4 if vinyl or wood.
Right you are, if I had it to do over again I would probably leave that gap in between the metal of the trailer and insulate from there. I wanted to use reflectix to do that however they said I needed more air gap for it to be effective. Good thing is when I cool it off or heat it up it holds temp nicely. I appreciate your comment.
@@preciouscargo1792 Hi from Tenn area / Iam building out a C.T. cargo trailer and Iam just going to get a tarp made to cover over top of the C.T. for that to use as a attic/air space. In the 47 years that Ive been working in Const. I have yet to get a pro or a manufacturing rep to give me true advise with insulation products, Why?
That is a great idea, I thought of doing the same but could not think of a simple way to do it without it being a hassle to put up and take down. I would love to hear how your doing that and I'm also curious what size your C.T. is.
for high heat areas its best to do an Radiant Air Gap between the outside and inside with foil backer.
The set up as is performs well enough in Summer and excels in our winter weather. Radiant gaps are effective if you can get enough gap, that is why I did not go with something like Reflectix.
Really good tip,thanks much!
You're doing a great job .
Thank you!
When it gets to freezing and below outside and you're heating the inside, your wheel well boxes will frost on the inside unless you also cover them in foam board.
I have not found this to be the case! If the temperature inside is comfortable it is impossible to the metal on the wheel wells to frost unless maybe you are heating with propane and even then I doubt it. Is this something that you have had trouble with?
Mhm... If you are using diesel or electric heat there is no condensation.
That is correct!
Lots of great information I have often wonder how the foam insulation sheets work how efficient are they
I have this trialoe how many panels of HD did it take? What size is yours ? 😊
Mine is 16x8 and honestly I did not count since I did a layer of one inch and a layer of half inch. It was definitely a few $$$.
@@preciouscargo1792
Thanks 😊
You need to tape all the joints with the aluminum tape every cut every beam you gotta tape the shit out of it and make it airtight for it to work right
Curious in the winter when you heat does your fender wells condensate?
I have not had that problem however here in the Atlanta area it rarely gets cold enough for that to be a problem. If I had it in a colder climate I would insulate them for sure.
What about a small mini split AC. I have a regular travel trailer and a mini split would be so much better! Mainly quieter and can be a heat pump!
A mini split would be far better, the in room ac is not ideal but was the least invasive option. Keep in mind this one for me is not meant to tour the country it is meant to get me off the ground and out of a tent. That it does and very well!
@@preciouscargo1792 I am happy to hear it is working out for you and want to wish you happy and safe travels, always!
I hate that spray foam crap, it always make a big mess for me!👍🏼☮️
Agreed, spray foam is some hateful stuff, I used it in a few places where nothing else would fit. I tried the Loctite spray foam along with the usual Great stuff and was not impressed at all with Loctite except that it was a bit more dense once cured.
Sorry but when foam is sprayed professionally you won't regret the performance. Cost $1000 To have my 8.5 x 22 foot trailer sprayed. 1 1\2 in the walls and ceilings. 3" sprayed under the trailer floor. Added strength to the whole trailer plus sealed air tight.
Yes the professional foam is a whole other ball game for sure. Great Stuff is not so great! I like the idea of doing it underneath too, I have yet to insulate underneath.
it is better to just run 1 inch runners across the beams and add 3/4 inch board. it will trap small air gaps between the two and insulate better.
I’m trying to understand, so run the 1” runners not parallel but like across? And then insulate just the thickens of the runners but not actually have the insulation touching the exterior wall or roof? So there’s an air gap between the insulation and the exterior metal or what ever it is?
@@LTZ400Mark I will be adding 3/4 insulation between the runners and yes they will be perpendicular to the ine inch boards
Don’t let anyone see you putting your lips on the trailer, they might get the wrong idea. 😂
Especially since I was putting my lips on a stud! 🤣
@@preciouscargo1792 😂
Use rubber paint like flex seal on your steel/metal, it will save your ass dude.
Interesting idea, too late for this build but if we do another I will take that to account.
What does the rubber paint do? Why put it on the metal?
I'm sure you have,"lots of good reasons"... for doing things the way you do them,however; they may not ALL be good reasons.
I believe fastening your foam board in direct contact with the metal siding is a major mistake. You should have an air space. (I know, everyone does it that way) .
I would use rigid insulation with @ leSt one reflecti e side facing out.
Then, each and every minor seam created by salvaging those scrap pieces together should be sealed with specialty foil tape.
IF you think rigid foam board is expensive, just wait until you price foil tape.
N0T insulating the floor first will prove to be a major mistake!
Thank you for the feedback and I would have kept an air gap however with only one inch of space the air gap is not sufficient to use reflectix to any effective degree, and I called the company to confirm minimum air gap needed which was 2 inches. That being said I am not trying to turn this thing into a super insulated space. Currently I can easily heat it and cool it and the insulating I did seems to be sufficient. Of course the floor is a must however that will be done at a later time. I appreciate you providing your expertise in thermal dynamics as I am clearly not one.
Just two more full sheets of insulation - $40 - and you could have done a great job. Using all the scraps just resulted in a leaky mess with air infiltration everywhere. Penny wise and pound foolish. Take your time. Do a great job, and you won’t regret it.
Be sure to share a link of your video and your insulation. I would love to learn from you!