With all that you’ve figured into the electric, water, black water, is more than I can do by myself, so I have 2 x 10 gauge, 25’ extension cords, several water canisters with a bowl sink and a port-a potty . I can dry camp if needed.🙃
After watching you guys build this tiny house I will never buy another camper. Yeah, it’s a lot of work you’re putting into this but commercially made RV’s are such garbage. I would rather have something I made myself and know all of the ins and outs of. I’m really curious about this mini split air conditioner. I can’t wait for that episode!
I've installed several mini-split a/c units and the inside panel is not very heavy at all. The wall doesn't need to support a lot of weight but needs to be sturdy enough on the face so it doesn't flex when you snap the unit into the mounting bracket. The copper lines, drain hose, and control cords cause a lot of resistance at one end making that side harder to snap in so that's the side where you want the mounting bracket screwed into a stud or very close to one. What you need to plan for is that the #1 problem with these units are the copper fittings leaking and it's critical that the compressor unit be mounted properly to avoid undue vibration. They aren't made to be bouncing around on an RV installation so you should come up with the best anti-vibration mounting system that you can design if you want to get a lot of trouble-free use out of it. I love mini-splits & plan to install one for our build. One last detail to keep in mind for an RV installation is the drain hose placement. Make sure the hose has enough of a slope going through the wall so that if you're ever in a situation where the trailer is sitting on an incline or high at that end that the condensate will still drain easily. I've seen installation instructions that emphasize the importance of that & others that didn't, so depending on which manufacturer makes the unit it's a detail that's easy to overlook.
We might need to exchange emails. I've seen on most installs where they took the refrigeration lines down and then came back up through the floor. I'm hoping I can figure out a type of "pass through" to bring the lines straight through the wall in the nose, then turn up towards the inside unit. I'm thinking of using pvc with an inside diameter close to the outside diameter of each tube with insulation installed and then bring each tube through individually. I saw where one gentleman brought all tubes and wiring through a potty flange but I'm a little concerned about being able to seal that properly. Our email is iridetinyhouse@gmail.com.
@@billanddeb I've only installed them in homes but have seen them installed in RV's in a few different ways. I'll shoot you an email describing how a typical installation is done & how I plan to install one in our trailer. I can offer a few tips & where you run into some challenges and how I deal with them. Overall they're easy-peasy to install & each one you do gets easier because you learn how to manage the one or 2 tricky parts.
It's awesome to see this being built especially after you have already built and lived in one long enough to know what you would want to change or extra features that you want.. I'm really excited to see it completed and maybe your new home will be competition for the other person who you had on who's home on wheels was mind blowing as far as thought out and use of space etc. I'm referring to the husband and wife who he was limited mobility and retired from hospital maintenance and his wife and nephew built it with his design and knowledge.. Marvin and Mary I believe were their names
I enjoy hearing your plans, you both have this worked out exceptionally well. And you also explained it perfectly. I'm here for the long haul to see your plans come to life. Thank you.
Oram Miller says to keep electrical wires about 6 ft. from the human body. Putting electrical wires in metal conduit does shield them. Electrical motors create magnetic energy which is worse than electrical Need to be several feet from electrical motors. Wish you the best.
I am truly grateful for your videos. It shows how much thought and planning goes into a build. I would be inclined to just start building in one end, then stop when I reached the other end. 😲 Good to know I should have a plan. 🤔 I would be tempted to seal every single seam I could find, leaking or not, just to avoid any future issues from twisting and vibration during travel. I would also paint all the metal studs with Rustoleum to prevent any rust and increase longevity, but I am also known for wasting money and being the master of overkill. 🤪 I'm sure you realize you'll need an air vent for your fresh water tank. Without one, it's a nightmare to fill...time wise...and it'll expand like a balloon. I found that out when I tried filling the tank in my motor home and forgot to open the air vent. 😲 Putting a valve somewhere to switch between tank and direct water hookup is a good idea. I could fill my RV tank by either standing outside with a hose pouring water into the filler tube, or just connect the hose to the hose connector outside, flip the valve, and fill the fresh water tank very quickly (remembering to open the air vent). Worked like a charm! 👍 I'd be a bit nervous having the water & electric so close together, but I'm sure you've thought of that. Best of luck, and keep those videos coming! 🎥 I am truly learning from you, and I really enjoy watching someone else work!!! 😂🤣
The RV style water inlet fixture includes a city water inlet, a gravity fill inlet and a provision for a vent tube. It's the same fixture we used on the first build and it was hooked up according. As far as a valve system to switch from city water to in board water is concerned, we utilized a double check valve system in our first build that we designed which makes everything work automatically. No valves to remember to engage or disengage. We will utilize the same design in this one. We are considering using a membrane of sorts where the tanks will be located just in case there are any leaks. There is also plenty of room in the compartment to elevate the electronic components and wiring if a leak were to develop. All of these components (including the tanks) will be easily accessible making regular inspections a breeze which is all part of the plan.
@@billanddeb Good idea on the valve. Just one more reason I watch your videos.....I LEARN!! I saw a video somewhere, where the water tanks were surrounded by wood, and sealed on the inside with either fiberglass, flex-seal, or something like that....and may have had an "emergency" drain hole within the compartment.
@@JohnDoe-dp5vo all of those things are being considered. However, we have a similar setup in our first build which we've lived in over 2 years and traveled 15,000 miles with no leaks. Guess we been lucky 😌.
Finally got to watch the video, it took two days for closed captioning to generate. I would also adhere your wood supports for everything to the studs for stress/weight transfer to the studs. Enjoying seeing your build process.
Our current cargo Conversion has the battery and converter/charger in close proximity to the fresh water tank and pump. After more than 2 years of full-time living and traveling around 15,000 miles we haven't had any leaks, no issues. The electronic devices will be elevated up off the floor, and the tanks and pump will be in a separate, somewhat "walled off" area just in case there is a leak. We never ever indicate that folks should do it the way we do. However, some might pick up something they can use in their build with a few modifications to make them more comfortable. We don't do "how to" videos. Rather, we do "how we did it" videos.
I’m glad you guys still sound excited about what you’re doing, I know how that much work can take a toll mentally and physically. I am excited to see the end result.
I wouldn’t worry about compensating for the offset of the FWT. I’ve drug a lot of trailers for thousands of miles and I always loaded a little heavy to the left because of the pitch of the road. Your doing fine.
I have a question... and I know it is a newbie type of question... sorry... lol why was it so important for you to make sure that the water tank was center of the axle and the trailer? how does that effect the tongue weight and towing etc.... I appreciate your videos so very much !! and I think you guys are absolutely lovely fun people !! Good luck on your build and here's hoping to no problems !!
Well, mainly it's just our preference. When the fresh water tank is full it will weigh over 540 pounds. It's doubtful we will ever travel with it full, but if there was time we had too, we wouldn't have to be concerned with added tongue weight or tail weight (depending on its location) that could adversely affect the handling of the trailer while being towed.
@@billanddeb ohhhh I see !! Gotcha!!! Thank you for replying .... I’m in my planning stages and you both are such an inspiration to me.... as well as as your guests that have built their own cargo conversions Good luck on the rest of your new build!!! I am SO EXCITED to see the finished product!!
LOL thanks guys I thought my mind was made up that I was gonna get a van to covert after I sell my bus but now after seeing your layout in the trailer I'm really seriously second guessing myself LOL. 👍✌💖💪👨🍳🎅🚌🙏
Arlene The second build most men are Einstein’s. See Deb sitting on the supervisors chair? Now Bill is showing what he’s planning. The supervisor is making the big decisions. Men just got to figure how to make it work.
Why are you not using a solar generator like a Bluetti 200P with a gas gen set to charge or charge from shore power since you will usually be hooked up, instead of batteries and inverters?
I seriously doubt any of the solar gens will be able to run our mini split air conditioner or our electric water heater for an appreciable amount of time. Of course we wouldn't run them both at the same time while depending on our battery bank, but we could still do it. Most of the time, we will be "plugged in" to shore power, but for those occasional 2 to 3 night stays "unplugged" we still want to be able to use all of our amenities with little extra effort involved.
It's been a long time since we made that video. If you're referring to the backer boards for the eventual windows, we glued them with Gorilla glue construction adhesive. The bolt through the center served a 2 fold purpose. It held the board tightly against the skin of the trailer until it the glue set up, and it served as a center point to mount the window pattern to cut out the opening for the window.
I’m sure you have thought about it but just in case........Will you ever need a cell booster in the trailer? If maybe...... you might want think about another coax access spot on the outside with an outlet inside.
Lots of Canadians have cargo trailer conversions. You'd probably need to insulate a little more (naturally) for the cold winters, but it's definitely a possibility. We follow one Canadian who full-times in a van with no insulation, but he stays in the Vancouver area. It's our understanding the winters are a little milder there. You might want to check out his channel. Van City Van Life.
@@billanddeb Thankyou for your reply I’m in Quebec Canada I had no idea others were doing this here I will defiantly look into this I. Fell in love with yours thankyou for quick reply God Bless you both
Curious, because I’ve only planned a new kitchen in our house (therefore little idea about trailer building), if you are running wires in the walls, wouldn’t you put that in prior to insulation? Or is it insulation then wires so there is a buffer against the metal sides?
Thanks again for the information
Our pleasure!
With all that you’ve figured into the electric, water, black water, is more than I can do by myself, so I have 2 x 10 gauge, 25’ extension cords, several water canisters with a bowl sink and a port-a potty . I can dry camp if needed.🙃
That's awesome. Like we've always said, it's what works for you that matters. Enjoy.
That's really awesome!!
Thank you for watching
After watching you guys build this tiny house I will never buy another camper. Yeah, it’s a lot of work you’re putting into this but commercially made RV’s are such garbage. I would rather have something I made myself and know all of the ins and outs of. I’m really curious about this mini split air conditioner. I can’t wait for that episode!
Installing the mini split will be a learning experience for both of us.😃
I've installed several mini-split a/c units and the inside panel is not very heavy at all. The wall doesn't need to support a lot of weight but needs to be sturdy enough on the face so it doesn't flex when you snap the unit into the mounting bracket. The copper lines, drain hose, and control cords cause a lot of resistance at one end making that side harder to snap in so that's the side where you want the mounting bracket screwed into a stud or very close to one. What you need to plan for is that the #1 problem with these units are the copper fittings leaking and it's critical that the compressor unit be mounted properly to avoid undue vibration. They aren't made to be bouncing around on an RV installation so you should come up with the best anti-vibration mounting system that you can design if you want to get a lot of trouble-free use out of it. I love mini-splits & plan to install one for our build. One last detail to keep in mind for an RV installation is the drain hose placement. Make sure the hose has enough of a slope going through the wall so that if you're ever in a situation where the trailer is sitting on an incline or high at that end that the condensate will still drain easily. I've seen installation instructions that emphasize the importance of that & others that didn't, so depending on which manufacturer makes the unit it's a detail that's easy to overlook.
We might need to exchange emails. I've seen on most installs where they took the refrigeration lines down and then came back up through the floor. I'm hoping I can figure out a type of "pass through" to bring the lines straight through the wall in the nose, then turn up towards the inside unit. I'm thinking of using pvc with an inside diameter close to the outside diameter of each tube with insulation installed and then bring each tube through individually. I saw where one gentleman brought all tubes and wiring through a potty flange but I'm a little concerned about being able to seal that properly. Our email is iridetinyhouse@gmail.com.
@@billanddeb I've only installed them in homes but have seen them installed in RV's in a few different ways. I'll shoot you an email describing how a typical installation is done & how I plan to install one in our trailer. I can offer a few tips & where you run into some challenges and how I deal with them. Overall they're easy-peasy to install & each one you do gets easier because you learn how to manage the one or 2 tricky parts.
Looking great so far. You'll be back on the road soon.
We are trying to get back to traveling soon.
@@billanddeb All this hard work is worth it in the end. It looks wonderful.
Bill is a lucky man
Consider backing for the awning.... Looking good!
We won't have an awning. We prefer to use our Gazelle Gazebo instead.
@@billanddeb Gotcha, looking good!!
You are very detailed. Love that. Good job. Like watching your progress.
It's awesome to see this being built especially after you have already built and lived in one long enough to know what you would want to change or extra features that you want.. I'm really excited to see it completed and maybe your new home will be competition for the other person who you had on who's home on wheels was mind blowing as far as thought out and use of space etc. I'm referring to the husband and wife who he was limited mobility and retired from hospital maintenance and his wife and nephew built it with his design and knowledge.. Marvin and Mary I believe were their names
Great update Bill & Deb. Very detailed.
I enjoy hearing your plans, you both have this worked out exceptionally well. And you also explained it perfectly. I'm here for the long haul to see your plans come to life. Thank you.
Oram Miller says to keep electrical wires about 6 ft. from the human body. Putting electrical wires in metal conduit does shield them. Electrical motors create magnetic energy which is worse than electrical Need to be several feet from electrical motors.
Wish you the best.
Thanks for the "things to consider " vid. I'm starting a van build soon and these things are better planed out ahead of time ! Thanks .
It coming along nicely. It seems like you are doing a fine job preplanning. Can't wait for the next one.
I'm certain we will miss a thing or 2 here and there. We'll simply adapt and move on when it happens.
I am truly grateful for your videos. It shows how much thought and planning goes into a build. I would be inclined to just start building in one end, then stop when I reached the other end. 😲 Good to know I should have a plan. 🤔
I would be tempted to seal every single seam I could find, leaking or not, just to avoid any future issues from twisting and vibration during travel. I would also paint all the metal studs with Rustoleum to prevent any rust and increase longevity, but I am also known for wasting money and being the master of overkill. 🤪
I'm sure you realize you'll need an air vent for your fresh water tank. Without one, it's a nightmare to fill...time wise...and it'll expand like a balloon. I found that out when I tried filling the tank in my motor home and forgot to open the air vent. 😲 Putting a valve somewhere to switch between tank and direct water hookup is a good idea. I could fill my RV tank by either standing outside with a hose pouring water into the filler tube, or just connect the hose to the hose connector outside, flip the valve, and fill the fresh water tank very quickly (remembering to open the air vent). Worked like a charm! 👍
I'd be a bit nervous having the water & electric so close together, but I'm sure you've thought of that.
Best of luck, and keep those videos coming! 🎥 I am truly learning from you, and I really enjoy watching someone else work!!! 😂🤣
The RV style water inlet fixture includes a city water inlet, a gravity fill inlet and a provision for a vent tube. It's the same fixture we used on the first build and it was hooked up according. As far as a valve system to switch from city water to in board water is concerned, we utilized a double check valve system in our first build that we designed which makes everything work automatically. No valves to remember to engage or disengage. We will utilize the same design in this one. We are considering using a membrane of sorts where the tanks will be located just in case there are any leaks. There is also plenty of room in the compartment to elevate the electronic components and wiring if a leak were to develop. All of these components (including the tanks) will be easily accessible making regular inspections a breeze which is all part of the plan.
@@billanddeb
Good idea on the valve. Just one more reason I watch your videos.....I LEARN!!
I saw a video somewhere, where the water tanks were surrounded by wood, and sealed on the inside with either fiberglass, flex-seal, or something like that....and may have had an "emergency" drain hole within the compartment.
@@JohnDoe-dp5vo all of those things are being considered. However, we have a similar setup in our first build which we've lived in over 2 years and traveled 15,000 miles with no leaks. Guess we been lucky 😌.
Finally got to watch the video, it took two days for closed captioning to generate. I would also adhere your wood supports for everything to the studs for stress/weight transfer to the studs. Enjoying seeing your build process.
Yes we are doing that
Nice to know you have a plan.😎👍
I've learned a lot from you and I'm wondering why you are putting batteries near water supply???
Our current cargo Conversion has the battery and converter/charger in close proximity to the fresh water tank and pump. After more than 2 years of full-time living and traveling around 15,000 miles we haven't had any leaks, no issues. The electronic devices will be elevated up off the floor, and the tanks and pump will be in a separate, somewhat "walled off" area just in case there is a leak. We never ever indicate that folks should do it the way we do. However, some might pick up something they can use in their build with a few modifications to make them more comfortable. We don't do "how to" videos. Rather, we do "how we did it" videos.
I’m glad you guys still sound excited about what you’re doing, I know how that much work can take a toll mentally and physically. I am excited to see the end result.
Our excitement wanes a little towards the end of the day, but comes right back once a particular project is completed.
I wouldn’t worry about compensating for the offset of the FWT. I’ve drug a lot of trailers for thousands of miles and I always loaded a little heavy to the left because of the pitch of the road. Your doing fine.
I kinda have the same opinion, but, the questions have been asked, so I figured I'd address the issue for clarity. 😀
Bill looks like a great plan!.,.. Please don't pint that stick at me. lol, Are you going to be done by August???? FInger crossed.
Fingers crossed
I have a question... and I know it is a newbie type of question... sorry... lol
why was it so important for you to make sure that the water tank was center of the axle and the trailer? how does that effect the tongue weight and towing etc....
I appreciate your videos so very much !! and I think you guys are absolutely lovely fun people !! Good luck on your build and here's hoping to no problems !!
Well, mainly it's just our preference. When the fresh water tank is full it will weigh over 540 pounds. It's doubtful we will ever travel with it full, but if there was time we had too, we wouldn't have to be concerned with added tongue weight or tail weight (depending on its location) that could adversely affect the handling of the trailer while being towed.
@@billanddeb ohhhh I see !! Gotcha!!! Thank you for replying .... I’m in my planning stages and you both are such an inspiration to me.... as well as as your guests that have built their own cargo conversions
Good luck on the rest of your new build!!! I am SO EXCITED to see the finished product!!
It's coming together nice. Looks like you have it well thought out. Can't wait to see the next...and the next...and the next lol.
Next one should be up in a couple of days.
You have really really thought this out. Looks like the weight distribution will be ideal. Looking forward to the next video
Good advance work so much to figure out.
LOL thanks guys I thought my mind was made up that I was gonna get a van to covert after I sell my bus but now after seeing your layout in the trailer I'm really seriously second guessing myself LOL. 👍✌💖💪👨🍳🎅🚌🙏
Sorry about that. Lol
Excited for your build. Thanks for sharing.
Looking good👍💥
Looks pretty nice!! Keep up the good work, it will all come together before you now it !!!! Robert from Ohio !!!
Thanks for the detailed update Bill and Drb!
Holy Taledo....im not smart enough to build my own trailer. So much fore thought involved. Your doing a fine job in my humble estimation.
Lol. We ain't nothin special. Anyone can do this. The only requirements are months of endless sleepless nights.
Arlene The second build most men are Einstein’s. See Deb sitting on the supervisors chair? Now Bill is showing what he’s planning. The supervisor is making the big decisions. Men just got to figure how to make it work.
Was there going to be a “Black Tank”??
No. We'll be using a composting toilet.
@@billanddeb ok I think I remember you telling that now...
@@billanddeb
...or the woods... 😅😂🤣🤣
Why are you not using a solar generator like a Bluetti 200P with a gas gen set to charge or charge from shore power since you will usually be hooked up, instead of batteries and inverters?
I seriously doubt any of the solar gens will be able to run our mini split air conditioner or our electric water heater for an appreciable amount of time. Of course we wouldn't run them both at the same time while depending on our battery bank, but we could still do it. Most of the time, we will be "plugged in" to shore power, but for those occasional 2 to 3 night stays "unplugged" we still want to be able to use all of our amenities with little extra effort involved.
In addition, our system isn't costing much more than the Bluetti and we'll have a bunch more power available.
Do you plan on putting your water tanks in a separate enclosure. God for bid you have a leak it won't destroy all your electronics.
Yes
Good job!
Great update. I’m interested in that hot water heater? Thanks Kc
www.amazon.com/dp/B074P9C2HJ/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_AK7XP04P90SY5GT25APW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Does the fresh water tank have baffles in it?
No. We very rarely travel with water in the fresh water tank as well.
You said you would list costs... Where are they?
We have not posted cost yet, I promise soon.
We will update costs along the way in stages, so there won't be a cost schedule in every video.
My brain would be hurting while planning the layout! I would love to build out a trailer for us.
All the thinking is exhausting....thus I'm awake at 2 a.m.
Are you not using your water tank in the back of the van anymore? Well it looks really nice so far. You've been moving right along! Exciting!
Yes we will still use the water tank in the van to top off if we need it
Oh yes. The water tank in the van is really handy when we're stationary over a week. We will continue to use it.
Are you glueing the support boards to the wall or just sealing it with caulking??
Thank you.
I understand the screw in the middle but if you don't put a screw..
It's been a long time since we made that video. If you're referring to the backer boards for the eventual windows, we glued them with Gorilla glue construction adhesive. The bolt through the center served a 2 fold purpose. It held the board tightly against the skin of the trailer until it the glue set up, and it served as a center point to mount the window pattern to cut out the opening for the window.
Yesssss Thank you so much for this. Your videos have been so much help. I really appreciate you all 😊 🙏🏽🙏🏽
I’m sure you have thought about it but just in case........Will you ever need a cell booster in the trailer? If maybe...... you might want think about another coax access spot on the outside with an outlet inside.
We've been looking at them. I have another entry point in mind if we go that route.
Your brain cells are certainly getting a workout! Keeps you young! haha!
Now i want one but i live in the cold Canada would this be ok ? Have a great day cant wait to see the finishing
Lots of Canadians have cargo trailer conversions. You'd probably need to insulate a little more (naturally) for the cold winters, but it's definitely a possibility. We follow one Canadian who full-times in a van with no insulation, but he stays in the Vancouver area. It's our understanding the winters are a little milder there. You might want to check out his channel. Van City Van Life.
@@billanddeb Thankyou for your reply I’m in Quebec Canada I had no idea others were doing this here I will defiantly look into this I. Fell in love with yours thankyou for quick reply God Bless you both
Curious, because I’ve only planned a new kitchen in our house (therefore little idea about trailer building), if you are running wires in the walls, wouldn’t you put that in prior to insulation? Or is it insulation then wires so there is a buffer against the metal sides?
We do not want any wires buried in the walls, they will all be in chase ways....stay tuned
You're going to be to blame for me wanting to do another build. 🤣🤣🤣
It's addictive