I recently discovered your channel, and I must say - for as long as EU will allow combustion engines - what you, sir, are creating is phenomenal. Cheers from the Netherlands.
Just discovered these old mercedes diesels yesterday and now i cant get enough of this content. Have to get one for myself now. Keep these videos coming!
For the amlunt of torque these things make the main caps look quite spindly...they don't seem to cause any issues but just look on the thin side - especially compared with the size of the little ends which are enormous! Great content!
Thank you for making this very detailed and informative video available for people, for free - very generous of you! You're a great teacher, and it's obvious that you enjoy passing this kind of information on. Excited to see more of these high-performance builds!
Speaking of thrust washers , found mine form my 97 300tdi in the oil pan probably heavy clutch and heavy driving after 360.000km of driving ,, thanks for the video
I’m amazed how calming & comforting all your vid content is. Brilliant stuff! Nice to see a competent engineer actually working on these things they were originally designed/ intended instead of some knuckle scraping wrench gorilla whacking away! Well done indeed.
You should open a storefront/business here in the U.S. once we get back to drilling oil here. You could sell these type parts for enthusiasts here and even bring in surplus European Merc diesel engines since they now are emissions exempt. We love diesels here.
Yes the CNC department unfortunately can’t stop while I make these videos. When I have more money I will buy a dedicated shop just for the TH-cam builds
That was by far the most comforting video Ive seen all year. Great quality stuff. I hope in a few years I'll be lucky enough to be in the position to order one of those things from you
In Australia we have a 308 v8 that came out in holden commodores, and as they’re pretty old now there’s quite a few that actually have the issue of having a heavy duty clutch destroying thrust bearings, never heard of them bending rods but ahah
For all those wondering about the angles Marcedes prescribed for this Don't overthink it. It's Like Spark advancement on a Gasoline engine. Fuel is compressible, and they did their best to Find a sweet spot through the RPM range, so the Fuel gets To the Prechamber at the exact time needed for the best result. Although Much faster, Electricity still needs time to get there and Fuel just needs a bit more time. So they Made the Markings and Found the perfect timing in these numbers.
that is a nice looking engine & we know how well it performs .. just one thing , when Luke was talking about the piston ring gaps he mentioned google grinding rings .... just be careful there .. lol
I´ve always use a mix of motoroil and bearing grease to get a thich startup oil. About 2/3 grease and 1/3 oil. And you can use it in a oilcan. If it doesnt pump it up then it is too thich.Works perfect everywhere in engine for startup. And when there is oilpressure everything is lubed with normal motoroil.
I really like how you treat details. And that your overhauled engine got blasted outside and then painted. Not like most US/Can U-tubers that dont give a s... on rust protection on the body parts of a vintage car also. Pedantism counts sometimes ;-)
I like using lucas oil stabilizer, with about 20-30% 20w50 engibe oil, and i like to fill the oil pump with lucas, it will prime instantly even a year later, the thick and sticky stuff stays on metal forever!, Then a bit of oil, and its slick as ice.
I think that clutch Chinese whisper probably started life as the old tale of worn thrust bearings due to depressing the clutch when starting the engine. The lack of oil pressure on starting up and the extra load from the clutch would wear the thrust bearings over time. I heard this 30+ years ago and it was meant for old British engines.
this has been around for a long time, also for starting old Aircooled VWs. Ultimately, when it is cold out you want to help the starter as much as you can. so you put the transmission in neutral, so that it is not as much of a drag, then depress the clutch while you turn it over. Once it starts, which is usually just a few seconds, you let the clutch out immediately, which will then start moving the oil in your transmission, even in neutral. this will help when you drive off. In short, it doesn't matter if your thrust bearing looks like new, if you can't start the engine in the winter :)
I think they were referring to clutch spring pressure because when you push on the clutch release got nothing to do with the flower excessive clutch spring pressure would destroy the thrust washer and then push the flywheel into the block I would think 16:45
Those stuck rings are defiantly indicative of veg oil use. When I rebuilt my 200TDI three out of four pistons had seized top rings. Compression was low across the board. The issue is that the majority of people think that veg is a pour and go product. It is, to an extent but long term problems such as crankcase oil contamination, stuck rings, blowby and eventually if left long enough, polymerization of engine oil and blocking of oil filter. If you are lucky to have a bypass on the oil filter then oil flow is maintained however jellified oil is circulated throughout the engine blocking oil ways. When running veg on a single tank setup, the cold starts on veg are what kills compression. The veg when injected into the combustion chamber when cold is extremely viscous and difficult to atomize. The anatomized veg hits the cold cylinder walls, condensing. The rising piston will scrape up the oil like a windscreen wiper and fill the tiny clearances between the cold piston rings, grooves and the bore. As the engine comes up to running temp the veg oil burns, and due to its long chain esters solidifies into a hard varnish. My recommendation is not to touch veg, unless its either process into biodiesel to break off the long chain esters or to run a twin tank system with heat exchange.
In the US on drag racing vehicles with automatic transmissions and very high horsepower, when the trans brake is on during a race there is a high amount of hydraulic force that can develop inside the torque convertor or front pump. That force can push the torque convertor forwards off of the input shaft which has a tendency to wipe out thrust bearings in the motors. They developed a spool valve to dump some of the hydraulic pressure on the transmission so that it wouldn't cause this issue in the future. I've never heard of someone bending rods because of excess pedal pressure on the clutch mechanism, I would tend to think it would be extremely unlikely.
I suspect the rod half big bearing shell is a sputter type bearing to take the forces of combustion, the cap half does not need to be and can be made of a cheaper type of bearing, possibly bi-metallic. Sputter bearing shells are very expensive so many OEM’s only use them on the rod half and possibly bottom main bearing shell.
16:30 About that "heavy clutch bending con rods" stuff, I think you misrepresented it. Presumably it isn't your foot pushing on the con rod that's bending it, it'd be misalignment causing additional bending loads in the rod. If the thrust bearing wears and the crankshaft moves forward then the piston and crank are no longer perfectly in line, if only by a few ten thousandths (quarters of a mil). This means during the power stroke the piston is ever so slightly trying to bend the rod, instead of the rod being in pure compression. Granted there's no such thing as pure compression, there's always some bending forces involved, but this would amplify it slightly and worse it'd be in the direction the rod is weakest - front to back rather than side to side. Now I have no idea if a worn thrust bearing misaligning the rod by a few thousandths would be enough to cause significant bending forces, but it would definitely be harder on the rods than if they were straight up and down so it certainly wouldn't help anything. I imagine it's more of a .01%-1% weaker type deal, not a 10% weaker type deal, so I still agree with your conclusion that typically it wouldn't be the issue, but with the caveat that if the rods were already near maximum stress it could be enough to push them over and cause a slight bend. I'd also add that if that force is applied over tens of thousands of miles it could cause some fatigue on the rod that may create that slight bend, even if the force isn't crazy high. Either way, if anyone was thinking it was the force of your foot bending the rods that was a wild misunderstanding I think.
Haha it’s b/s either way, the rod can slide forward backward on the crank more than the thrust or even a worn would allow. Regardless of which way you try to explain it, it’s an echo of a comment that’s come from either a very one off application (certainly not a 606) or from someone telling stories.
Perhaps I missed it, I did not see you check the thrust to know that you installed the correct thickness of thrust bearing. On American V8s I would always check the thrust before the final torque and stretch of the main bearing bolts. The center main had thrust built into the bearing if it was too tight you could sand down the bearing with crocs cloth and a piece of glass, if too much play was found you could add shims to get the correct end play.
I came across these videos, thinking be a cheap power to money. Old diesel motor, cheap yo buy and run. But here in Australia better to go ford Barra motor. Start for around $350AUD, can push 1500 plus HP.
@@OM617a Oz is excellent for four-wheel driving, all year round. We did have a Highway in northern territory with no speed limit, untill 20 years ago. Stuart Highway.
@@OM617a I been looking for good old diesel Mercedes, one-day. I tell u after watching these videos I love put Mercedes motor in my GQ patrol. Turbo 2.8L diesel a bit slow on the road, great off-road.
The rods dosent bend just of a too heavy clutch an broken thrust bearings, the rod touch the crank and gets hot, after this you get a fresh "emmenthaler-block" 😂
Lovely job, but I can't see how the old Landy gearboxes, diffs and driveshafts handle the power? I snapped a couple of halfshafts with a smokey 2.25 petrol back in the daze..
Mr. Dale, serious question, Sir.... Does Diesel Pump UK sell a kit like this for someone like me to put together on my own time? Like a fully disassembled and prepped 606 or 605, laid out like on your bench at the start of your video? I LOVE the billet manifolds! It is still my dream to build a 606 to about 450 HP to replace my 6.2 in my Blazer.
That's a decent replacement consideration for the Detroit. I've always been contemplating what i would use as a replacement for the six2 in my 'Burb - should that fateful day arrive. There aren't many mechanical diesels to chose from unfortunately. Honestly though, i'd LUV to grab an engine from GEP to replace the factory six2, but those suckers ain't cheap, and shipping rates are a bitch, lol!
I don't understand the logic behind Stretch Bolts, we were building engines for a hundred years before they came out and they just seem like an excuse to spend more money when building a stock engine. If I'm doing a build that requires a lot more than stock I have ARP in my favorites bar, and they don't do stretch on studs.
That's no different to asking why do newer cars have all this tech when we've been building them for a 100 years with some having no tech, there's nothing wrong with trying new formulas, it's how things improve, nothing gets better by doing the same thing over and over again for 100+years🤦
Ive never seen a 20v DOHC head for these Mercedes diesel 5cyl engines do I never thought they existed, now for the obvious question, where can I get one?
If you're taking material off the top, are you also taking material off the top of the pistons, or using a thicker head gasket to make up the difference?
I wonder if burning used motor oil gums the rings too? My om602 lost coMpression to the point where it wouldn’t even start. Bout to tear it apart and find out the cause.
Great video! I was wondering where you got all that electroplated hardware 7:09 from and if you could give me a part number if it comes as a set, much appreciated!
Hi Luke, I'm really enjoying this series! :) I do have a question that I was really hoping would be answered in this video... I was wondering what is the recommended orientation for the piston ring gaps? I've looked around all over the place and I can't seem to find any mention of how they are supposed to be oriented/offset from each other.
@@DieselPumpUK You mounted the pump at 11 degrees, the recommended angle is 14. May I know the reason for this? I'm just asking out of curiosity. because I installed the 7.7 elements I bought from you at 14 degrees. I would be glad if you answer. Thank you
I have to say, it is very nice, almost like a satisfying to see someone who knows how to use torque wrench. Respect for that! I'm searious! Almost at every video made by Finnish people, they use torque wrench wrong. It snaps and they still keep tightenin. More and more.. Like no any idea how to use it really.. There is no any point to use torque wrench, if doesnt understand how to use it right! It makes me mad to watch all these stupid people and stupid videos, where people uses these great tools, but doesnt understand how to use right it.
Great build! Question, is there now a risk the cam gear will be out of balance due to the weld? Normal engine I wouldn't think it'd be an issue, although when spun to 6500rpm, could it cause a vibration?
Cams typically spin at 1/2 speed of the crank. So while there will be imbalance at 3250 rpm, it's likely not near as noticeable as it would be at 6500.
Do you measure the main bearing clearance using a dial bore gauge or plastigauge and do you use the Mercedes specs? I haven't rebuilt any forced induction diesel engines but worked for a BMW race engine builder and we always ran looser on forced induction gasoline engines. The guys who trained me always said looser bearing clearances were safer to accommodate crankshaft flexing, main bore and rod bore distortion.
Good day, could you help me with a few rough dimentions of the om606. Id like to fit it to a T2 merceds van. My engine bay is very narrow so im mostly intrested in the width of the engine.
hello, tell me, the parts of the 605 engine are different from the 605 turbo, namely the cylinder head, piston group, crankshaft, camshaft ...? is it possible to install a turbine on 605 atm (replacing the exhaust manifold, pan, fuel pump...)
Any decent advice since there a bit of scottish inn you…? My 2014 sprinter engine was doing my nut in injectors sensors so a put it out it’s misery. A want put somthing in it that wont destroy me soul! Its a campervan a just want go sleep in the thing wayout the worries of limp mode and all the other issues!
Is the OT measurement same for om603? I measured OT on my own engine to the point where the piston stops comin up and now i cant get my camshaft right. Its 4 degrees off
A joy to see, well done young man this is what the UK needs much more of.
I recently discovered your channel, and I must say - for as long as EU will allow combustion engines - what you, sir, are creating is phenomenal.
Cheers from the Netherlands.
Just discovered these old mercedes diesels yesterday and now i cant get enough of this content. Have to get one for myself now. Keep these videos coming!
This guy have the best om606 content! I really recommend this channel
A yr on, how's it going? I laughed because I found this channel yesterday and I'm so keen haha
You are an artist with those diesel pumps .. an the way you methodically put that engine together … I could watch the shit all day .
Top engine builder in the UK !!!! wow that was brilliant to watch Sir.............thank you
For the amlunt of torque these things make the main caps look quite spindly...they don't seem to cause any issues but just look on the thin side - especially compared with the size of the little ends which are enormous! Great content!
Thanks Luke it felt like you made this video for me since I ask to many questions about 605
For real brother. There’s very very little about the 605 on TH-cam other than DPUK vids, hopefully we will see some more from Luke in time
Thank you for making this very detailed and informative video available for people, for free - very generous of you! You're a great teacher, and it's obvious that you enjoy passing this kind of information on. Excited to see more of these high-performance builds!
this video is much better then every netflix movie
This is awesome. The diesel pump on the test rig even sounds like a miniature 5 pot banger!!
Didn't understand most of what you were saying but still loved it 👍 most jealous
thanks to this channel i managed to fix my old vito 2 years ago :P cheers ^^ still diezelling on :P
You working with such care makes me nostalgic. Nicely done and that finished engine looks beautiful.
Speaking of thrust washers , found mine form my 97 300tdi in the oil pan probably heavy clutch and heavy driving after 360.000km of driving ,, thanks for the video
Always pure class from your videos.
A pleasure to watch
Your attention to detail is great even more your detailed explaination of every part .....cheers mate
I’m amazed how calming & comforting all your vid content is. Brilliant stuff!
Nice to see a competent engineer actually working on these things they were originally designed/ intended instead of some knuckle scraping wrench gorilla whacking away!
Well done indeed.
Just built a 605 yesterday, they are a nice engine to assemble,
You should open a storefront/business here in the U.S. once we get back to drilling oil here. You could sell these type parts for enthusiasts here and even bring in surplus European Merc diesel engines since they now are emissions exempt. We love diesels here.
Want a treat mate this is gold TH-cam content 👌
high pitched buzzing sound killed this vid for me
Yes the CNC department unfortunately can’t stop while I make these videos. When I have more money I will buy a dedicated shop just for the TH-cam builds
That was by far the most comforting video Ive seen all year. Great quality stuff. I hope in a few years I'll be lucky enough to be in the position to order one of those things from you
Great to see you guys doing videos again. Cheers thank you
Always a pleasure to watch
In Australia we have a 308 v8 that came out in holden commodores, and as they’re pretty old now there’s quite a few that actually have the issue of having a heavy duty clutch destroying thrust bearings, never heard of them bending rods but ahah
46:49 not only good mechanicians but also good music taste 😎
For all those wondering about the angles Marcedes prescribed for this
Don't overthink it.
It's Like Spark advancement on a Gasoline engine.
Fuel is compressible, and they did their best to Find a sweet spot through the RPM range, so the Fuel gets To the Prechamber at the exact time needed for the best result.
Although Much faster, Electricity still needs time to get there and Fuel just needs a bit more time. So they Made the Markings and Found the perfect timing in these numbers.
That ring tool is mint, nice work as always
that is a nice looking engine & we know how well it performs .. just one thing , when Luke was talking about the piston ring gaps he mentioned google grinding rings .... just be careful there .. lol
I´ve always use a mix of motoroil and bearing grease to get a thich startup oil. About 2/3 grease and 1/3 oil. And you can use it in a oilcan. If it doesnt pump it up then it is too thich.Works perfect everywhere in engine for startup. And when there is oilpressure everything is lubed with normal motoroil.
I really like how you treat details. And that your overhauled engine got blasted outside and then painted. Not like most US/Can U-tubers that dont give a s... on rust protection on the body parts of a vintage car also. Pedantism counts sometimes ;-)
Really informative, I don't suppose I'll ever go this far but thanks for being so gereruse and for sharing this with us all, really great!
I like using lucas oil stabilizer, with about 20-30% 20w50 engibe oil, and i like to fill the oil pump with lucas, it will prime instantly even a year later, the thick and sticky stuff stays on metal forever!, Then a bit of oil, and its slick as ice.
Super high quality content
Nice video! Thank you!
hh2 hho done correctly cleans all engines.
good stuff my man
Great job
I think that clutch Chinese whisper probably started life as the old tale of worn thrust bearings due to depressing the clutch when starting the engine. The lack of oil pressure on starting up and the extra load from the clutch would wear the thrust bearings over time. I heard this 30+ years ago and it was meant for old British engines.
this has been around for a long time, also for starting old Aircooled VWs. Ultimately, when it is cold out you want to help the starter as much as you can. so you put the transmission in neutral, so that it is not as much of a drag, then depress the clutch while you turn it over. Once it starts, which is usually just a few seconds, you let the clutch out immediately, which will then start moving the oil in your transmission, even in neutral. this will help when you drive off. In short, it doesn't matter if your thrust bearing looks like new, if you can't start the engine in the winter :)
Awesome process.
I think they were referring to clutch spring pressure because when you push on the clutch release got nothing to do with the flower excessive clutch spring pressure would destroy the thrust washer and then push the flywheel into the block I would think 16:45
Як чудово та зрозуміло молодчинка
Those stuck rings are defiantly indicative of veg oil use. When I rebuilt my 200TDI three out of four pistons had seized top rings. Compression was low across the board. The issue is that the majority of people think that veg is a pour and go product. It is, to an extent but long term problems such as crankcase oil contamination, stuck rings, blowby and eventually if left long enough, polymerization of engine oil and blocking of oil filter. If you are lucky to have a bypass on the oil filter then oil flow is maintained however jellified oil is circulated throughout the engine blocking oil ways. When running veg on a single tank setup, the cold starts on veg are what kills compression. The veg when injected into the combustion chamber when cold is extremely viscous and difficult to atomize. The anatomized veg hits the cold cylinder walls, condensing. The rising piston will scrape up the oil like a windscreen wiper and fill the tiny clearances between the cold piston rings, grooves and the bore. As the engine comes up to running temp the veg oil burns, and due to its long chain esters solidifies into a hard varnish. My recommendation is not to touch veg, unless its either process into biodiesel to break off the long chain esters or to run a twin tank system with heat exchange.
In the US on drag racing vehicles with automatic transmissions and very high horsepower, when the trans brake is on during a race there is a high amount of hydraulic force that can develop inside the torque convertor or front pump. That force can push the torque convertor forwards off of the input shaft which has a tendency to wipe out thrust bearings in the motors. They developed a spool valve to dump some of the hydraulic pressure on the transmission so that it wouldn't cause this issue in the future. I've never heard of someone bending rods because of excess pedal pressure on the clutch mechanism, I would tend to think it would be extremely unlikely.
I suspect the rod half big bearing shell is a sputter type bearing to take the forces of combustion, the cap half does not need to be and can be made of a cheaper type of bearing, possibly bi-metallic. Sputter bearing shells are very expensive so many OEM’s only use them on the rod half and possibly bottom main bearing shell.
I have same idea and will start soon👍👍💪💪🏎🏎
I would love to see how you would build the 5.9 Cummins or 4BT with mechanical fuel pump
That would be an interesting video. Fully mech Cummins running 1000hp
16:30 About that "heavy clutch bending con rods" stuff, I think you misrepresented it. Presumably it isn't your foot pushing on the con rod that's bending it, it'd be misalignment causing additional bending loads in the rod. If the thrust bearing wears and the crankshaft moves forward then the piston and crank are no longer perfectly in line, if only by a few ten thousandths (quarters of a mil). This means during the power stroke the piston is ever so slightly trying to bend the rod, instead of the rod being in pure compression. Granted there's no such thing as pure compression, there's always some bending forces involved, but this would amplify it slightly and worse it'd be in the direction the rod is weakest - front to back rather than side to side.
Now I have no idea if a worn thrust bearing misaligning the rod by a few thousandths would be enough to cause significant bending forces, but it would definitely be harder on the rods than if they were straight up and down so it certainly wouldn't help anything. I imagine it's more of a .01%-1% weaker type deal, not a 10% weaker type deal, so I still agree with your conclusion that typically it wouldn't be the issue, but with the caveat that if the rods were already near maximum stress it could be enough to push them over and cause a slight bend. I'd also add that if that force is applied over tens of thousands of miles it could cause some fatigue on the rod that may create that slight bend, even if the force isn't crazy high.
Either way, if anyone was thinking it was the force of your foot bending the rods that was a wild misunderstanding I think.
Haha it’s b/s either way, the rod can slide forward backward on the crank more than the thrust or even a worn would allow. Regardless of which way you try to explain it, it’s an echo of a comment that’s come from either a very one off application (certainly not a 606) or from someone telling stories.
Perhaps I missed it, I did not see you check the thrust to know that you installed the correct thickness of thrust bearing. On American V8s I would always check the thrust before the final torque and stretch of the main bearing bolts. The center main had thrust built into the bearing if it was too tight you could sand down the bearing with crocs cloth and a piece of glass, if too much play was found you could add shims to get the correct end play.
I came across these videos, thinking be a cheap power to money. Old diesel motor, cheap yo buy and run. But here in Australia better to go ford Barra motor. Start for around $350AUD, can push 1500 plus HP.
@@OM617a so true mate and do like look of rolling coal.
@@OM617a Oz is excellent for four-wheel driving, all year round. We did have a Highway in northern territory with no speed limit, untill 20 years ago. Stuart Highway.
@@OM617a I been looking for good old diesel Mercedes, one-day. I tell u after watching these videos I love put Mercedes motor in my GQ patrol. Turbo 2.8L diesel a bit slow on the road, great off-road.
606 is like a doomsday engine of choice
Nice work 🤙👍
Good work
That rubber hose thing I did that on a Deutz 913 fell off down in the crankcase anyway man I was pissed
The rods dosent bend just of a too heavy clutch an broken thrust bearings, the rod touch the crank and gets hot, after this you get a fresh "emmenthaler-block" 😂
:)
The only thing i need is a lot of money to be able to build an engine like that ..
What do you think of a Compound Turbo Setup ?
This is gold 🙏
SUPERB
Anyone notice the pump had that same 5 cylinder warble when he spin it to 6k?
Lovely job, but I can't see how the old Landy gearboxes, diffs and driveshafts handle the power? I snapped a couple of halfshafts with a smokey 2.25 petrol back in the daze..
Mr. Dale, serious question, Sir.... Does Diesel Pump UK sell a kit like this for someone like me to put together on my own time? Like a fully disassembled and prepped 606 or 605, laid out like on your bench at the start of your video? I LOVE the billet manifolds! It is still my dream to build a 606 to about 450 HP to replace my 6.2 in my Blazer.
That's a decent replacement consideration for the Detroit. I've always been contemplating what i would use as a replacement for the six2 in my 'Burb - should that fateful day arrive. There aren't many mechanical diesels to chose from unfortunately. Honestly though, i'd LUV to grab an engine from GEP to replace the factory six2, but those suckers ain't cheap, and shipping rates are a bitch, lol!
It is the glycerine in the veg oil, you take it out to make bio diesel
I don't understand the logic behind Stretch Bolts, we were building engines for a hundred years before they came out and they just seem like an excuse to spend more money when building a stock engine. If I'm doing a build that requires a lot more than stock I have ARP in my favorites bar, and they don't do stretch on studs.
Probably something to do with maintaining a more consistent clamping force on the head across a range of temperatures.
That's no different to asking why do newer cars have all this tech when we've been building them for a 100 years with some having no tech, there's nothing wrong with trying new formulas, it's how things improve, nothing gets better by doing the same thing over and over again for 100+years🤦
@@joshthomas2536 the thing is Mercedes’ didn’t improve the old Mercedes Diesel Engines are fantastic the new ones are not.
اسلام عليكم تحياتي لك من المغرب
Can you do a video on mercedes indirect injection injection?
Ive never seen a 20v DOHC head for these Mercedes diesel 5cyl engines do I never thought they existed, now for the obvious question, where can I get one?
If you're taking material off the top, are you also taking material off the top of the pistons, or using a thicker head gasket to make up the difference?
I wonder if burning used motor oil gums the rings too? My om602 lost coMpression to the point where it wouldn’t even start. Bout to tear it apart and find out the cause.
You should do a build off series with Darkside Developments! 🙌 and then go race ☺️
Won't the welding interfere with the balance?
Top video 👍
What rational did you use when deciding witch exhaust ports go to witch turbine scroll port ? its not so obvious as in a 6 cylinder
Sounds like some little kids playing with a hammond organ in the back ground...
Lovely engine. Can you fit a 605 or 606 to a Land Rover Discovery 3? I don't fancy rebuilding a TDV6 ;)
I've seen first hand a heavy clutch kill the thrusts on an rb25 but it didn't bother the rods
could you please make a step by step video how to remove the 606 injectors thx
Great video! I was wondering where you got all that electroplated hardware 7:09 from and if you could give me a part number if it comes as a set, much appreciated!
I note you oiled the main bolt threads but not the bolt shoulders
Great content brother!! Does the same procedure apply to the om605 from the w202?
What kind of tape is that?? Sick build btw
so good
WOW!!!!! did you clear coat the painted green parts as well?
do you zinc plate the pre-combustion chambers?
@DieselPumpUK can you make a video putting a om605 in a 190D ?
Excellent I would like to fit the 5 cylinder to my Landrover Lightweight… is this feasible?
It would be nice if you could explain what else would bend the rods,thanks
Too much boost
Hi Luke, I'm really enjoying this series! :) I do have a question that I was really hoping would be answered in this video...
I was wondering what is the recommended orientation for the piston ring gaps? I've looked around all over the place and I can't seem to find any mention of how they are supposed to be oriented/offset from each other.
Stagger them when you install but don’t worry too much as they will rotate in operation.
@@DieselPumpUK You mounted the pump at 11 degrees, the recommended angle is 14. May I know the reason for this? I'm just asking out of curiosity. because I installed the 7.7 elements I bought from you at 14 degrees. I would be glad if you answer. Thank you
Have you ever Build an om604 Turbo?
I have to say, it is very nice, almost like a satisfying to see someone who knows how to use torque wrench. Respect for that! I'm searious! Almost at every video made by Finnish people, they use torque wrench wrong. It snaps and they still keep tightenin. More and more.. Like no any idea how to use it really.. There is no any point to use torque wrench, if doesnt understand how to use it right! It makes me mad to watch all these stupid people and stupid videos, where people uses these great tools, but doesnt understand how to use right it.
As long as they’re not working on your car there’s no reason to get upset
Great build! Question, is there now a risk the cam gear will be out of balance due to the weld? Normal engine I wouldn't think it'd be an issue, although when spun to 6500rpm, could it cause a vibration?
Cams typically spin at 1/2 speed of the crank. So while there will be imbalance at 3250 rpm, it's likely not near as noticeable as it would be at 6500.
hello, good job, could you give me an injection pump on om 606 and send it to Kazakhstan?
Do you measure the main bearing clearance using a dial bore gauge or plastigauge and do you use the Mercedes specs? I haven't rebuilt any forced induction diesel engines but worked for a BMW race engine builder and we always ran looser on forced induction gasoline engines. The guys who trained me always said looser bearing clearances were safer to accommodate crankshaft flexing, main bore and rod bore distortion.
"Profesionalls" like him do not need to check for all that nonsense 😂.
I wonder what you guys could do with a BMW M21 2.4 diesel, like the one in my '85 524td
Шикарно😊😊😊 сколько стоит такой двигатель?
TRABAJO A CONCIENCIA
Good day, could you help me with a few rough dimentions of the om606. Id like to fit it to a T2 merceds van. My engine bay is very narrow so im mostly intrested in the width of the engine.
hello, tell me, the parts of the 605 engine are different from the 605 turbo, namely the cylinder head, piston group, crankshaft, camshaft ...? is it possible to install a turbine on 605 atm (replacing the exhaust manifold, pan, fuel pump...)
Any decent advice since there a bit of scottish inn you…? My 2014 sprinter engine was doing my nut in injectors sensors so a put it out it’s misery. A want put somthing in it that wont destroy me soul! Its a campervan a just want go sleep in the thing wayout the worries of limp mode and all the other issues!
Is the OT measurement same for om603? I measured OT on my own engine to the point where the piston stops comin up and now i cant get my camshaft right. Its 4 degrees off