Maintenance on a Hakko FR400 Vacuum Desolder Station
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- After 2-1/2 years of use, it's time for some maintenance on one of my favorite bench tools
There's a short demo of how to use the FR400 at the end of the Video
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7:30 - The “little hole” that you point out is the easy one to see. The one where the tubing connects inside the station is the one that had me pulling my hair out! Mine was a clone (Aoyue Int701A++) but the clear tubing inside looked spotless and I had no idea the yellow cake flux was clogging it up until I shoved something through and saw a puff of yellow dust. I had taken it apart and cleaned everything including the pump diaphragms TWICE over months before I found the clog.
Hi Emmitt: Yup - For those of use who use their equipment daily and in long-sessions, maintenance is a real thing. I would like my Hakko ever better if they would plate the insides of the Tips (perhaps chromed) to help prevent the flux from eating away at the surface - which cause the solder to catch on the rough surface - which makes it clog up quicker and quicker as the tip gets used more and more - Chris
The FR-400 is the successor of the Hakko 474 as far as I know. The valve and diaphragm seem to be the same. The valves need to be cleaned on a regular basis and replaced when they start to leak by disintegration of the material. Very easy to do since Hakko machines are very service friendly.
Hi roerdomp16e: So far I haven't any problems with the valve and diaphragm - I'll probably look at them and order replacement parts, so I have them on-hand when I need them - Thanks for the heads-up about this - Chris
Just ordered a Hakko FR410. Your video was super helpful; great detail, audio levels fine. Thanks for making this video.
Hi Dana: Cool - I will be money well spent - Chris
Very well done video . Thank you .
You're welcome - Chris
The “tubes” on the board are known as “plated through holes.” :)
Hi Emmit: I know - the description was for the beginners - not for someone like you with experience - Chris
Isopropanol or ethanol would rinse rosin deposits out of that vacuum hose. Vasoline inside the solder reservoir (except on the filter) would make emptying the solder far easier.
Hi Byron: That all sounds unnecessarily messy. It's easier to replace the worn parts - Chris
Thanks
Hi Richcollins513: You're welcome - Chris
谢谢
Hi dear Jarry: 别客气 - Chris
This thing... it feels like they had a great design in the 410 and forced its limits to create the 400, hence that fan. I bet that the 410 does not get as much dirt inside the box.
Hi David: I'm not at all familiar with the Hakko 410. My Hakko 400 gets lots and lots of use daily and for the most part it has been ultra-reliable. It's perhaps some of the best money I've ever spent on bench equipment - Chris
Nice video , I am looking at this unit for possibly purchase . The vacuum pump seem quite load , I presently have the Hakko FM-204 and its pretty quiet in my opinion . What are your thoughts on how load this unit is ?
Hi Power Sonic: I don't find the noise level to be a problem for me - however noise levels don't really both me much unless they're excessive. I was reminded last week how much I like the FR400 - I did a field service call where I expectantly needed to desolder a few components. i used my old Hakko 808 (the first desoldering tool I owned) to do the work. The weight and vibration was unsettling especially when I factor in that this was my "go to" tool when I used it everyday.
I remember that spending the money for the FR400 seemed like a real expense at that time - but I have never regretted buying it. I would like it if the tips lasted longer and if there were more choice in the styles of tips - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 If you want more styles of tips then consider the FR-410 the improved version that is 190 watts and uses the N61 nozzles that has a lot more styles
@@forthosewhodare7325 The FR400-53 is 300 Watts - Hakko says they have plans on more selections for the N60 nozzels. - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 yes but it is also $600 more.
@@forthosewhodare7325 If it's used daily for many hours each day - the extra cost isn't really a big factor - Chris
Hey am I supposed to be tinning the nozzle tip during and/or after use?? The directions say to as if it was a soldering iron, but I haven’t seen anyone do so.
I have an fr-301
Hi lllblsslll: I have never tinned the nozzle tip - I also don't regularly tin my soldering iron tips - Chris
Northside Service Company oh ok thx for the input, much appreciated
@@lllblisslll always tin your tips when not in use, that is protected against oxidation
@@forthosewhodare7325 thanks & yea def, I’ve been tinning all my soldering/desoldering tools & it’s kept my tips real nice. Glad I did
I tin religiously. I have a roll of comically-thick solder wire for this.
DON'T pry the ICs out of the board! Clip the leads off the package with diagonal cutters and remove them one at a time.
Hi Byron: The IC wasn't pried off the board - it had already been fully desoldered - Cutting the leads off and the desoldering them is unnecessary - the magic of a good desoldering station is, if it's used correctly the components will fall off the board - Chris
@@northsideservicecompany3567 I saw you. The advice is intended for those who don't have a Hakko.
I’m confused. The entire point of a thru-hole desoldering station is to remove it whole/intact without destroying the component by removing the leads one at a time.
@@emmettturner9452 That is indeed the purpose of desoldering equipment. There are physical reasons why this goal is not always achieved. Prying only damages the board and sometimes the chip.
@@byronwatkins2565 Right, but you typically wouldn’t be using a vacuum desoldering station to remove a DIP if cutting leads and removing legs one at a time was a better option. The DIPs I desolder are typically more precious than the board… hence buying a vacuum desoldering station. Indeed, it’s the PCB that’s more easily replaced for me (and, often, others).
The proper solution for a stuck DIP after using the vacuum desoldering tool is to identify which legs are still attached, wiggle them, and try again if they still are still stuck (add solder, flux, desolder).
I use every trick in the book on stubborn ones, holding the board upside-down for gravity-assist (and watching the solder melt on the component side), turning the temperature up, moving the legs while desoldering, pinching the hose while I hold the trigger to reach max suction before I release the hose, etc. Only in the most extreme cases do I resort to hot air or low-temp alloys (Chip Quik), but even that comes before sacrificing a chip to spare the board!
I use your technique on capacitors and the like all the time but if destructive chip removal were always an option then I wouldn’t even own a vacuum desoldering station. ;)
Even the the big station manufacturers don’t expect the chip to fall out since they instruct you to break the sweat joints between the legs and the plated through holes after desoldering. I do this with a metal spudger across the top and bottom… just press each leg in to see if they snap loose and start moving freely. If the chip is free enough to wiggle then you can see which legs are holding it up since they are the only ones that won’t wiggle with the rest of the chip. I make sure to move them to the opposite side while molten before I remove the desolder tip so that they will spring back across the plated through hole while the residual tinning solidifies. It has a measurable effect on my success rate though the chip rarely just falls out.