How To: Valve Adjustment Spacing - KLR650
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Learn how to adjust the valve clearance on you Kawasaki KLR650!
This procedure is fairly similar to most single cylinder bikes on the market.
Disclaimer:
If you are ever unsure, it is recommended that you reference proper user service manuals, or have qualified mechanics carry out this procedure. I am not liable for any damage that may arise from carrying out this procedure incorrectly.
Equipment Used
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Canon 600d
Sony RX100 Mk1
GoPro Hero 3+ Black
Rode VideoMic
Blue Yeti USB
Zoom H1
Edited Using
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Final Cut Pro X
Adobe Premiere CC
Adobe Media Encoder
MPEG Stream Clip
Aussies are the best at instructional videos, all value no fluff.
Thank you. It is not very often that we get a simple, correct, clear video of what to do. Thank you.
Just watched Kenny do a valve clearance check on a kawasaki klr650. His video is organized, clear, concise and full of smart tips to make the task faster and simpler. I think I'll be spending less time and money at my dealership. Thanks, Kennyraceboy. Keep the vids coming!
Great job, friend! You make these daunting tasks doable for the everyday guy, and have saved me tons of money on upgrades and repairs. Thanks for all of your effort!
That's always good to hear, it's pretty much the reason I started doing this kinda stuff. I don't have any training, it's all self taught. If i can, anyone can!
Great video Kenny. After 22,500 miles, a couple of my valves have basically NO clearance. I was feeling lazy and ready to shell out $350 to the dealer for the adjustment, but thanks to your excellent tutorial, I'll be tearing the bike apart this weekend. It's always better to get a little hands-on your bike anyway, and the KLR is a great machine for that. Thanks again!
Excellent video. Feel fairly confident I can do this myself now . Done a lot of jobs myself on my bikes over the years but never this , thanks for a great how to , 7 years later !!
I used your video to check my values and do the exhaust cam advance mod. Thank you for posting these videos and making it look so easy! Very confidence boosting.
Kenny. Another great vid mate. I'm a ways off yet doing this job but instructional stuff like this makes the daunting task seem a lot easier. Cheers
Nice, I'm all for being able to work on your own bike. It's half the fun!
Good step by step video! I just did mine...you can shortcut removing the cams completely to change out shims, makes it much easier.
The torque specs for the 4 valve cover bolts are 72 inch pounds, HOWEVER these bolts are extremely prone to stripping out the threads inside the head, it is highly recommended that you only tighten those 4 bolts to 55 inch pounds to avoid this problem
Thanks for the video how to. This maintenance item is actually on this weekends to do list.
Hope it all goes well man! It's not too hard really :D
You are the best. From Vancouver, Canada.
How-to videos like this are gold! Good onya, Kenny.
Well, I try my hardest to bring you the "good stuff" hahaha
FANTASTIC VIDEO! Super helpful and will be the video I turn to just prior to opening up my own KLR. Thank you!
Nice video. I was nervous about this until I watched your video. Great job!!
Good video for my reference in future. "Practicality" easier for me to understand! Keep it coming! Thanks!
Good to hear man, and I'll be sure to keep em' coming!
Appreciate you taking the time to share this! I plan to do this tomorrow....
Well done! Very good video! How much NMs for the screws of the timing belt cover and the chain tensioner? Greetings from Germany, Bernd
Thats not as bad as i thought it would be. Thank you!
This is way over my head! I'd probably get it apart and then get frustrated and not know how to get it all back together like a jigsaw puzzle. haha
It seems that way mate but it's actually quite easy, especially with a single like the KLR, or any other for that matter. If you do want to do it, allow yourself some time, like a full afternoon so you can walk away if you need a cup of tea and come back to it. Once you can do it say bye bye to mechanics for the most part as this is one of the more complicated (still easy) and expensive parts of a service..
Great Video as always. Thanks for going above and beyond by taking everything apart even when not necessary. Much appreciated.
My KLR is coming up to do this soon . I am just putting it off until after the winter .
Yeah, it's not a thing you wanna do when there is good riding to be done!
great video! are you always better going for the lowest spec on clearance on both valves or should you go for a mid point?
for ex...low is .01 mid .03 or largest .05 ?
Great video! Thanks for posting it. I'll be adjusting my KLR in a couple of weeks. Hey would you mind posting the printed instructions you had?
Brilliant suggestion!
Very well done......going to be doing my 2001 in the spring.
Awesome. Thanks, Kenny! I am about to do mine pretty soon. First to check, so I know what shims to buy.
A suggestion, can you list the tools and replacement parts needed? It's nice to have this in one place.
RaveGSXR As for tools all you really need is the standard collection of socket sets (1/4 inch and 3/8 drive) with extensions, and you will need a feeler gage to check your tolerances. Also a good torque wrench is a must, I use two different torque wrenches, to fit 1/4" for lower torque settings and 3/8" for higher torque applications. For shims, I'd recommend going to your local bike shop and getting the OEM shims, that way you will always know that they are correct and in spec. Thanks for watching!
+kennyraceboy you make it look so easy, your videos are awsome, how can I get a sticker for my new 2014 new edition.
Robert Cates Sure thing mate! Just direct message me your mailing address and I'll make it happen!
+kennyraceboy 651
+kennyraceboy kenny,tell me how to get a direct message to you,I have failed miserable. .
Thanks Kenny! As always another great instructional!
Nicko Steel thanks for watching man!
awesome video and thanks for such clear instruction and video work
Excellent walkthrough, thanks mate!
You installed a shim of 285, and removed a 270. Will that not make the valve spacing smaller. Both your exhaust and intake valves measured at the minimum for spacing. I would think you would want a thinner spacer to increase the gap.
stroln you are right. Now he is .15 mm, out of spec in the wrong direction. The valves loosen over time and constrict the clearance. It is best to be at the largest clearance within each range, 25mm clearance for exhaust and .20mm clearance for inlet. Looks like the authors didn't check the clearance before putting the valve cover back on. Oops. I suggest adding a card overlay to the video explaining this, otherwise a lot of people will be installing the wrong shim sizes. .
If you guys would have looked closely he installed the original 270 spacer because no adjustments had to be done.
@@OOOHYEAAAHH even then he is at minimum spec and as the valve seats wear it's going to get tighter. He should have put it in a 260 bringing that valve to a .25 clearance. You always want to be as close to the max clearance.
@@wingtimeRV7 Exactly. This video gives the wrong calculation as well. Why so many up votes for so much bad information.
Yeah those numbers are wrong - useful to now how to get the head off, but hopefully people do their calculations correctly
At 6:35 I noticed your intake cam marks aren't horizontal. But when you reassembled it they were perfectly so. Was your timing off a tooth? Great video. I'm getting ready to do this job and I've watched it at least 4 times all the way through. Thanks for your efforts and ALL your vids.
I had a little trouble filming that shot so it took a couple of tries, the cams were both in alignment on disassembly and re assembly. It is really quite an easy job to do, so don't be afraid! Thanks for watching!
Sir you are awesome!
Subscribed!
Hello form Chicago Illinois!
Oh my god I am -shocked-.
I just came from watching several videos about how to do this on a BMW G 650 GS... The difference is staggering. So much so that I start to think to get me a KLR as my first adv. Bike and not the 650 GS (sertao) since it seems it is *much* more straight forward to DIY on KLR bikes...
I just drop my thoughts here to see if someone has additional thoughts in that.
Thanks!
And yeah : great video with a easy to go vibe!
I got a KLR650 as my first bike a few months ago. I'm not super mechanical but have found it very easy to work on and understand. It also has a very big and active community that is very helpful with sorting out problems. 10/10 would KLR again.
pro tip: if you've done the doohickey, you can take the factory one and its perfect for the slots on the plugs you remove on the side of the motor
Another nice video by kenny...
How much torque for the 3 screws holding the engine support triangle?
Thank You!! Great video!
Hello Kenny: Excelent video as all yours. My 2008 KLR just achieve 15000 Miles and I want to do a general maintenence. I've changed rear brake pads 500 Miles ago and sprockets&chain 1500 miles ago. Since I bought my KLR with 3800 miles, I don't know if the valve clearance was checked at 500 miles. The engine sound is right so I'm unsure about do it. ¿What do you recommend to me? ¿Any other maintenance activity (coolant replace, for example)? THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Excellent video! Keep up the good work.
Good job, you make it look easy.
Tip: use COIN instead screwdriver, its prevent damage cover caps. TY for vid!
Awesome video thanks alot!
While you have it apart you should hit your cams with a torch and get them up to 300 F and then brush slick50 or duralube on them. It does not bond to metal until 296 degrees and thus unless your engine gets that hot you will drain the stuff out and it will not do anything for it. Makde sure you put a shirt down the chain valley because dropping that inside bolt is not fun, I did it twice.
Great video ,lots of help Thanks Costa
Watched the video as my KLR came up for the valve check...I find this video has 2 critical flaws. #1 it doesn’t mention the fact the gap gets tighter with wear on these bikes, so if you have it opened up and it’s on the tighter end of the spec range, shim it to mid spec or even looser end of the spec..#2 equally important, the math was wrong and if he actually did replace shims according to the math, without double checking, the result would be way too tight .
I just wanted to say thanks. I was wondering when I should do mine it has 2500 miles on it?? hope to hear from you soon. thanks Gabriel.
+Gabriel MacKenzie hi there! Thanks for watching, after 2,500 miles I shouldn't imagine that your bike should need a valve adjustment, I had nearly 25,000 miles on mine when I did it, and mine was perfect still. Probably do it every 12,000 to be safe I reckon.
This will help, I think my 600 may have jumped a tooth when it stopped on me, must delve in...
Hey Kenny, Great video! Thanks heaps.
Great video Kenny
while i was waiting for my shims to come in, my bike got turned a little past top dead center somehow.probably about a quarter inch. should i spin it around back to tdc? thanks for the great video.
Yes, definitely. You will need to spin it around again until it is at top dead centre. Then reinstall with the lobes on the cams facing out.
kennyraceboy thanks kenny i thought so but i wanted to make sure, thanks for your help and the fast reply
nice vid,- my only Q is why you didn't check the tolerances after you changed the spacers to be shore or prove the theory was right..
Yeah that's a good point really, the service manual didn't really say anything about re-measuring, but it would be a good idea.
excelente!!! muy buen aporte, saludos
Better than good video and audio, thanks.
OK I tried I live in yuba city ca,hope you got it.
Great vid kenny!
Thanks mate, glad you liked it!
Good job man!.., looks clean
Team KLR™ .Colombia Thanks, I appreciate the support!
Kenny racingboy I shimmeitd my KFX450 but it still missis at high revs
Very helpful mate! Ride on Brother... Cheers;)
Great tutorial 👍
what is the specified valve clearance? Is it always .10 when computing that equation?
For the most part... The clearances will be in your owners manual or in the Haynes mechanics manual, download a copy or purchase your own.
you are the best
ty for upload
at 0:49 what's that hose for? it's not connected in my KLR. Is it important?
That's a breather. A lot of motorcycles and ATVs have this on the gas cap, but if your gas cap has a lock on it, the chances are high that the breather is somewhere else on the tank!
In order for fuel to flow into the carburetor, the tank must be able to draw air into itself to replace the used fuel, otherwise the fuel will not flow at all. It's a physics thing.
Where do you buy the shims?
you local Kawasaki bike shop should have the shims you need.
kennyraceboy thanks this will be my first valve adjustment. I went over the procedure dozens of times now and feel confident that I can do it. I just need to have the right size shims after measuring. Thanks again!!
Don't forget to burp your coolant line.
No hay audio
You never actually say how to adjust the valve clearing
good vid and i dont even own a klr ha hah ha
Hahaha, thanks mate!
Thanks heaps, great video!