It's an easy trick to draw your valve cover on a piece of card board marking each bolt location take a Pen and poke holes and then locate each bolt as you remove it . Makes reassembly super easy .
How did you not destroy your engine? When I first bought my klr I had a dealership check mine at 10,000 miles and when I ended up with a burnt exhaust valve I realized they hadn’t checked them. After I replaced the valve I have always checked them myself from then on. It’s not that difficult to do.
@@tomvana4270 If it was done once before, it's not likely to need another adjustment anytime soon. Most of the tightening happens when the bike is new. I've read of more than 1 person who has checked them early and gone 40,000km + without needing another adjustment.
What a fabulous presentation. I've just purchased a 2012 KLR and want to do my own servicing, so your site will act as a go-to. One minor point, l wonder if the radiator fan screws aren't Phillips Head, but rather JIS? The clarity of your explanations and video quality are superb. Thank you for putting in so much effort.
Right in the middle of this. I just reviewed the part about removing the motor mount for more room. Clear and specific as always! Thanks so much for your videos!
You are a phenomenal individual. Thank you for the videos you make. You really do break it down to the smallest little detail. You are a natural teacher. I can't give you enough thanks. The way you teach is phenomenal. Thank you 100 times over.
Thanks so much. I'm on my third KLR650. A C3 and two 'E's. I use the maintenance and mods as 'therapy'. It's a hobby. Nice to see it done before I do it.
Thanks for this helpful tutorial, Tim. In case anyone (like me) is wondering, the metal sides of the head cover bolt seals face up, toward the head of the bolt.
Thanks again for a great video. This is something that I need to do to my KLR, bought it used and do not know what the previous owner has done. This is going to be a winter project for me, so perfect timing.
Tim, 1st thank you made me have the confidence to do the job. Including part 2 the adjustment of valves. I am sure you noticed but just in case you didn't when you were doing the thermobob upgrade, I noticed that your " over flow coolant tank" was very low. I'm sure you caught it as you are one of the best "how you did it" video's and detail is your game, so I'm sure you also noticed it as well. But like I said JUST INCASE.
Two types of Sockets Shallow(short) Deep (long) .....Easy to remember. Also 6 point where possible not 12 point 12's like to strip Bolts and Nuts as they can be Sloppy fit.
I also wanted to ask if there is any reason that most of videos I have seen on doing the valve clearance job, why not also remove the spark plug to make it easier yet to get to TDC. I realize the Kacker releases some of the compression but I do feel the Pistons compression and one time it pushed me past TDC ( reason I decided to blow top of spark plug area with compressed air and removed spark plug I found that made it very much easier for me to get to TDC. Just wondering if I'm missing a reason I should not be doing that. I put a rag over area to prevent anything from falling in spark plug hole. So that's why I am asking. Again THANK YOU I HAVE DONE MOST OF THE MODS PLUS OTHERS THAT YOU WEEE KIND ENOUGH to make high quialty detailed video's ...how you did it is how I decided to do mine thanks to your hard work on making and editing time consuming video's.... I still am hoping you will be kind enough to decide to add the EBC 320mm Front brake even though that means even a lighter hand in the dirt, but the stopping power increase especially when you are loaded with gear, and or taking your wife along.
Love your videos....just got the bike...... I see you ride north Carolina....that's awesome .....I'm moving there in June.....now I even know were some cool places are! Thanks....keep making videos man!
How do you do it? Everytime I just push or set this wire/hose to the side...it will always pop back into the work area...over and over again...amazing watching a wizard work....congratulations
Hi Tim I'm wondering would not the clearance get larger as the engine wears .?I don't understand why the clearance become larger than tighter ? Please explain this concept to me thank you Tim . My engine has roughly 12,000 miles on it there is no problem now but later I may need to do this thank you and great vidio man !
No, you don't slide your feeler gauge between the lobe and the shim; you slide it between the heel or base circle of the cam and the shim. If the lobe was in a position to be able to slide a gauge in between it and the shim obviously the valve would be open and there would of course be no clearance. And why do you refer to the AIS tube as a vacuum tube? Doesn't it induct air into the exhaust via a port?
Can you provide or suggest an affordable set of shim guides (tool) in order to measure the valve clearances. I know I don't want to buy so cheapos that would give me inaccurate reading, thx in advance.
Have you done a top end rebuild? My 07 klr has excessive oil consumption and I believe it needs a new piston and rings. I think I can do this job the only thing I may need help with is the cam chain?
John Maciejewski - I have not done a top end. I'm lucky that my 09 doesn't burn much oil. However, I have been considering the Eagle Mike 685 kit as a future project. If I were in your situation I would do one of the upgrade kits like the 685, etc. That would resolve the oil burn and give smoother, better performance at the same time. Don't worry about the cam chain. Just secure it as I did in the video.
Tim2Wheels Yes the cam chain? I got the information I think I need watching your valve video part 2 it has good info. I do have one question about the valve clearance? The shims are marked 270 or 255 for example you check the gap and find you need to make an adjustment of however much and get a shim with the appropriate thickness using the numbers on the shim and feeler gauge that makes up the difference to get proper clearance . But I wonder does the shim that has been on the bike wear and have decreased thickness? For example the 270 in now actually 267 in thickness and have to calculate that To get the proper new shim? I was just wondering? Again thank you for the videos and reply
I apreciate showed the camshafts timing l was looking in others videos and many videos and NEVER showed the timing l have one klr l myself make the maintance excuse me My Bad English l Will suscribe in your Chanel
Tim love your videos. I have an issue. When going back together I cant get the intake cam to align properly. I think it might have been off before disassembly. One tooth back has the arrow aiming up. One tooth forward and its aiming into the head. This is very slight of course. The chain measures within spec. between cams. 127.5 mm 21 pins apart. I'm so stumped. 2001 with 18k. Thanks in advance
Hey Frank, In this case I would use the feeler gauge to find the widest gap in the intake valve cams to set the gears/timing chain alignment. That's what the arrow marks are supposed to do for you anyway. Once you have that set, you can make new marks for future reference. It is possible, although rare, that your factory mark are off. best of luck, I hope this is helpful, thanks for watching.
Additional comment: While doing this, make sure the crank shaft is still at Top Dead Center (TDC). if it is off, that could account for your misalignment.
At TDC for sure. Another online guru suggest setting intake perfect and let exhaust be as close as possible slightly advanced if necessary. Sound sane to you?
Tim need your help, I have a 2014 KLR 650 with 8k miles and it just started blowing blue smoke while riding, I believe it my be the rings, can you tell me why this happens as it has low miles??? Thanks Tony
Hi Tony, That is unusual for such a new/low miles bike. Normally, I would suspect oil getting into the piston during combustion, which is usually bad rings or cracked cylinder/piston. But with only 8k miles on it, I would say that's unlikely unless you've had work done recently. A more likely cause is dirty fuel. Is the fuel clean and fresh? has there been additives, oil, or anything like that in the tank? Does the smoke occur all the time or just while the choke is on? Blue or black smoke typically indicates oil, or an oily substance is getting into the gas or into the combustion chamber. This can be as simple as dirty/old/oily fuel, or additives in the fuel, which will burn off eventually. Bad rings or cracked piston at 8,000 miles would be extremely rare. I have heard of bad valve seats causing smoke, but I don't have much info on that. I would recommend you make sure you have fresh, clean fuel. if that doesn't help, then you or your mechanic would need to check the cylinder & piston. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Hey Guard Dog, on the valve cover if the rubber gasket is in tact (not torn or damaged)then you don't need to add any sealant. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
V Star 1300 Adventures - Yes, on the KLR TDC is the proper crank position for checking the clearances of Intake and Exhaust. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
I'm in Western North Carolina. The final ADVMoto rally was in 2016 and was held in Romney, WV. It's a shame they stopped holding this rally, it was nice. Here's a link to the info page. Its still up for some reason. advmotorally.com/details
Riders should get comfortable with working on your Bike . Good Shops are getting harder to find. A busy shop is not always a Good Shop. Ask yourself how do they deal with so many Bikes ???? By rushing likely . A small shop again the other end of the spectrum why are they not busy ??? Just get to know your Bike . You'll be much happier. In the long run knowing your Bike is the best.
May Jesus Christ bless you. I'm not a sodomite or anything, but I think you look much cooler with the facial hair at the beginning intro. Thanks from Texas!
It's an easy trick to draw your valve cover on a piece of card board marking each bolt location take a Pen and poke holes and then locate each bolt as you remove it .
Makes reassembly super easy .
Alternatively, 3D print a life-size KLR 650 valve cover to put the bolts in
If you can’t remember where a few bolts go you shouldn’t be working on it
Thanks Tim, I have been avoiding this for the last 16 years of KLR'ER ownership and now's it's time I dive in. This was a great video.
How did you not destroy your engine? When I first bought my klr I had a dealership check mine at 10,000 miles and when I ended up with a burnt exhaust valve I realized they hadn’t checked them. After I replaced the valve I have always checked them myself from then on. It’s not that difficult to do.
@@tomvana4270 If it was done once before, it's not likely to need another adjustment anytime soon. Most of the tightening happens when the bike is new. I've read of more than 1 person who has checked them early and gone 40,000km + without needing another adjustment.
What a fabulous presentation. I've just purchased a 2012 KLR and want to do my own servicing, so your site will act as a go-to. One minor point, l wonder if the radiator fan screws aren't Phillips Head, but rather JIS? The clarity of your explanations and video quality are superb. Thank you for putting in so much effort.
Right in the middle of this. I just reviewed the part about removing the motor mount for more room. Clear and specific as always! Thanks so much for your videos!
I'm glad it was helpful Ron. - Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Best video I've seen for KLR650 valves check. Thank you.
You are a phenomenal individual. Thank you for the videos you make. You really do break it down to the smallest little detail. You are a natural teacher. I can't give you enough thanks. The way you teach is phenomenal. Thank you 100 times over.
Don't need the service manual if you have a great video like this!
Been wondering where Tim was! Glad to see he's still at it.
dieseldavedroid - :) Thanks. Just been way too busy with work. I hope to bring more videos soon.
Thanks so much. I'm on my third KLR650. A C3 and two 'E's. I use the maintenance and mods as 'therapy'. It's a hobby. Nice to see it done before I do it.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
You can get even more room by unbolting the radiator from the frame - two 10mm bolts. Gently move the radiator and hoses forward.
Thanks for this helpful tutorial, Tim. In case anyone (like me) is wondering, the metal sides of the head cover bolt seals face up, toward the head of the bolt.
I did this a few years back on my KLR and was curious about your post. Very well explained Tim nice job!
Thanks again for a great video. This is something that I need to do to my KLR, bought it used and do not know what the previous owner has done. This is going to be a winter project for me, so perfect timing.
Craig Eudy - Yep this is one of those things that must be done. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Tim, 1st thank you made me have the confidence to do the job. Including part 2 the adjustment of valves. I am sure you noticed but just in case you didn't when you were doing the thermobob upgrade, I noticed that your " over flow coolant tank" was very low. I'm sure you caught it as you are one of the best "how you did it" video's and detail is your game, so I'm sure you also noticed it as well. But like I said JUST INCASE.
Two types of Sockets Shallow(short)
Deep (long) .....Easy to remember.
Also 6 point where possible not 12 point 12's like to strip Bolts and Nuts as they can be Sloppy fit.
Great video.Thank you so much.Dealers will lose their job because of you:)
So glad I found your channel Tim! These how to: vids are awesome!!!
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
I fully agree, some of the best on YT by far.
I also wanted to ask if there is any reason that most of videos I have seen on doing the valve clearance job, why not also remove the spark plug to make it easier yet to get to TDC. I realize the Kacker releases some of the compression but I do feel the Pistons compression and one time it pushed me past TDC ( reason I decided to blow top of spark plug area with compressed air and removed spark plug I found that made it very much easier for me to get to TDC. Just wondering if I'm missing a reason I should not be doing that. I put a rag over area to prevent anything from falling in spark plug hole. So that's why I am asking. Again THANK YOU I HAVE DONE MOST OF THE MODS PLUS OTHERS THAT YOU WEEE KIND ENOUGH to make high quialty detailed video's ...how you did it is how I decided to do mine thanks to your hard work on making and editing time consuming video's.... I still am hoping you will be kind enough to decide to add the EBC 320mm Front brake even though that means even a lighter hand in the dirt, but the stopping power increase especially when you are loaded with gear, and or taking your wife along.
Excellent. Well-produced, very informative.
Thanks for the video Tim! Just finished, all went well and your instructions were very helpful!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Love your videos....just got the bike...... I see you ride north Carolina....that's awesome .....I'm moving there in June.....now I even know were some cool places are! Thanks....keep making videos man!
Really enjoying this. I'm training up to see what maintenance looks like on the KLR 650 since that is my next ride when my current loan is paid off.
Thanks Tim! Love that granular detail.
No gaskets on valve cover, vacuum line or chain tensioner?
I would think that there would be, was surprised.
Thanks for making this vid.
Perfect explanation - thanks mate
How do you do it? Everytime I just push or set this wire/hose to the side...it will always pop back into the work area...over and over again...amazing watching a wizard work....congratulations
Will there ever be an update to cover the Gen 3 with EFI? I believe it is a more intense undertaking to get access.
Excellent and informative.
What was the marker writing on inside of valve cover about?
Well done !
This helped me a lot. Thank you!
Exceptional video, thank you!
Hi. Do you know what years KLR650 used both /two oil tubes together to lubricate the cam caps on the head?
Great stuff!
Good stuff Tim!
Thanks!
using a chisel for the plastic covers is better or even and cut down putty knife
Hi Tim I'm wondering would not the clearance get larger as the engine wears .?I don't understand why the clearance become larger than tighter ? Please explain this concept to me thank you Tim . My engine has roughly 12,000 miles on it there is no problem now but later I may need to do this thank you and great vidio man !
Awesome job, really well done tutorial!
TimExcellent presentation ..... thank you
kris4362 - Thanks for the comment and for watching.
What does it mean if the camera load isn't touching the shim my intake does not touch the shim
As soon as you remove the two 8mm at the vaccume tube once the tube is removed just put the bolts back in their spots .
Then carry on.
When I start my bike up it has some smoke coming and when I’m changing gears and I torque what would be causing that 05 the bike 650 KLR
No, you don't slide your feeler gauge between the lobe and the shim; you slide it between the heel or base circle of the cam and the shim. If the lobe was in a position to be able to slide a gauge in between it and the shim obviously the valve would be open and there would of course be no clearance. And why do you refer to the AIS tube as a vacuum tube? Doesn't it induct air into the exhaust via a port?
Can you provide or suggest an affordable set of shim guides (tool) in order to measure the valve clearances. I know I don't want to buy so cheapos that would give me inaccurate reading, thx in advance.
Have you done a top end rebuild? My 07 klr has excessive oil consumption and I believe it needs a new piston and rings. I think I can do this job the only thing I may need help with is the cam chain?
John Maciejewski - I have not done a top end. I'm lucky that my 09 doesn't burn much oil. However, I have been considering the Eagle Mike 685 kit as a future project. If I were in your situation I would do one of the upgrade kits like the 685, etc. That would resolve the oil burn and give smoother, better performance at the same time.
Don't worry about the cam chain. Just secure it as I did in the video.
Tim2Wheels Yes the cam chain? I got the information I think I need watching your valve video part 2 it has good info. I do have one question about the valve clearance? The shims are marked 270 or 255 for example you check the gap and find you need to make an adjustment of however much and get a shim with the appropriate thickness using the numbers on the shim and feeler gauge that makes up the difference to get proper clearance . But I wonder does the shim that has been on the bike wear and have decreased thickness? For example the 270 in now actually 267 in thickness and have to calculate that To get the proper new shim? I was just wondering? Again thank you for the videos and reply
I apreciate showed the camshafts timing l was looking in others videos and many videos and NEVER showed the timing l have one klr l myself make the maintance excuse me My Bad English l Will suscribe in your Chanel
Hi Homero,
I'm glad it was helpful. I do try to show the details needed. No problem with the English. I understand.
Thanks for watching.
Tim love your videos. I have an issue. When going back together I cant get the intake cam to align properly. I think it might have been off before disassembly. One tooth back has the arrow aiming up. One tooth forward and its aiming into the head. This is very slight of course. The chain measures within spec. between cams. 127.5 mm 21 pins apart. I'm so stumped. 2001 with 18k. Thanks in advance
Hey Frank,
In this case I would use the feeler gauge to find the widest gap in the intake valve cams to set the gears/timing chain alignment. That's what the arrow marks are supposed to do for you anyway. Once you have that set, you can make new marks for future reference. It is possible, although rare, that your factory mark are off.
best of luck, I hope this is helpful, thanks for watching.
Additional comment: While doing this, make sure the crank shaft is still at Top Dead Center (TDC). if it is off, that could account for your misalignment.
At TDC for sure. Another online guru suggest setting intake perfect and let exhaust be as close as possible slightly advanced if necessary. Sound sane to you?
That is a reasonable approach and it should run fine. Personally, I would set both intake and exhaust to proper settings for best performance.
Four stroke compression cycle: suck, squish, bang, blow.
Jeff Cobb - Heh! I like that better.
Tim need your help,
I have a 2014 KLR 650 with 8k miles and it just started blowing blue smoke while riding, I believe it my be the rings, can you tell me why this happens as it has low miles???
Thanks Tony
Hi Tony,
That is unusual for such a new/low miles bike. Normally, I would suspect oil getting into the piston during combustion, which is usually bad rings or cracked cylinder/piston. But with only 8k miles on it, I would say that's unlikely unless you've had work done recently.
A more likely cause is dirty fuel. Is the fuel clean and fresh? has there been additives, oil, or anything like that in the tank? Does the smoke occur all the time or just while the choke is on?
Blue or black smoke typically indicates oil, or an oily substance is getting into the gas or into the combustion chamber. This can be as simple as dirty/old/oily fuel, or additives in the fuel, which will burn off eventually. Bad rings or cracked piston at 8,000 miles would be extremely rare.
I have heard of bad valve seats causing smoke, but I don't have much info on that.
I would recommend you make sure you have fresh, clean fuel. if that doesn't help, then you or your mechanic would need to check the cylinder & piston.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Nice video, thanks.
t8erzandcheez - Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Hey Tim when you pop the head back on do you always have to put something on to seal it?
Hey Guard Dog, on the valve cover if the rubber gasket is in tact (not torn or damaged)then you don't need to add any sealant.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
What would happen if the 19mm bolt were turned clockwise? You say not to...
You shouldn't hear valve rattle unless they are loose. Yours are too tight. How do you explain that?
You are setting the motor on TDC for the compression stroke to check the intake and exhaust for this model?
V Star 1300 Adventures - Yes, on the KLR TDC is the proper crank position for checking the clearances of Intake and Exhaust.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Despite having to fight a bit to get all the stuff off to get there, at least that one thing is easy.
So a 2013 will also have shims.Disappointing because I would prefer adjusting type.
A metallic noise under load can font be pinging - time to try a higher octane fuel. (?)
Where are you from Tim? I’m in West Virginia and have never head of ADVMotos rally!
I'm in Western North Carolina. The final ADVMoto rally was in 2016 and was held in Romney, WV.
It's a shame they stopped holding this rally, it was nice.
Here's a link to the info page. Its still up for some reason. advmotorally.com/details
Removing the inspection caps a Coin will fit better than a flat screwdriver .....
What about to much clearance?
Riders should get comfortable with working on your Bike .
Good Shops are getting harder to find.
A busy shop is not always a Good Shop.
Ask yourself how do they deal with so many Bikes ???? By rushing likely .
A small shop again the other end of the spectrum why are they not busy ???
Just get to know your Bike .
You'll be much happier. In the long run knowing your Bike is the best.
The spark plug should have been taken out before you rolled the motor over.
Egg cartons are easy organisers ...
If they were that tight, you weren't hearing them on the road.
May Jesus Christ bless you. I'm not a sodomite or anything, but I think you look much cooler with the facial hair at the beginning intro. Thanks from Texas!
I liked the beard too, but my wife didn't, so there you go :)
Thanks for watching.
Quite scandalous that these bikes were banned in Europe so many years ago.