Absolutely brilliant mate. I have watched the 9 videos many times from start to finish....... I have one issue, today I tore my engine apart in line with videos 1 - 9 and now I need you to finish the video series so I can finish my build. 😂😂 Very much looking forward to future videos, more helpful than the manual, that is for sure.
Hi Paul - Great to know it was of help - Snowed under with work at the moment, (wasn't expecting to be ) but I really need to get the build up underway. May be a while tho... Next video will be measuring the crankshaft limits..
My '99 smokes like hell everytime I start it. Thinking I have to change the piston ring. Contemplating boring out to install 685 kit. The bike was down for a large chunk of the summer doing the doohickey so I gotta get cracking with a decision soon while its garaged for the winter.
Doesn't necessarily mean piston rings have had it - could be worn valve seals that are cold on start up therefore leaving a small gap for the oil (that is fed from the sump to the cylinder head via a external and clearly visible oil pipe on the 650 engine ) to get into the combustion chamber - As the valve stems heat up this gap closes somewhat and less oil is burnt - hence more smoke at start up. Good luck with it!!
@@themotorcycleshed380 It does smoke only at starting so valve seals may be the ticket. Now I look into that for diagnostics. I'm new to motorbikes and learning as I go. Thanks for the insight. Hoping that job isn't too involved.
Thanks for the comment - the short answer to locktite on the cylinder head bolts is no. The reason is that the bolts need to be torqued up ( in cross order and in stages ) and then the engine run. Once the engine has properly warmed up and then completely cooled down, the bolts need to re tourqed, due to the expansion and contraction of the metals and the compression of the head gasket in this first run period - If Locktite is used and then set between the first heating and cooling cycle, it may not be possible to finally tighten the head bolts properly. Its better to make sure the threads are clean and the bolts can tighten in the threads of the block properly. For instance the Kawasaki manual actually says use a thin layer of Molybdenum grease on the threads and shanks of the bolts to make sure they seat and fully engage with the threads. I'm sure there may well be differing opinions out there about this, but this is my take on it!
Hi, I'm glad for this video a lot, can you advise me about KLR 's ? i have a tengai that smoke a bit (blue smoke) a but starts and runs well, so what yo think causing it? is the piston worned out either valve stem seal ?
It is a sign that oil is being burned in the combustion chamber, like you say its either valve stem seals or worn piston rings. If you are going to take the head off you might as well take the barrel off too and have a look. You do not have to take the engine out of the frame to get the head and barrel off. Get the CLYMER manual for the KLR. Glad you like the Videos! Good luck
Hi there, I'm looking to completly rebuild my kawasaki klr 250 engine... Would the 250 be the same as the 650? I hope so as I can use your well put together video 🤞
hello everyone! i've recently rebuilt my klr 650 engine using the clymer manual (I suggest everyone should have it, really useful) and still your video is as detailed as a written page, congrats! Unluckily I used a cheap gasket for the head and now after only 500kms I need to change it (with an original Kawasaki new spare). I was wandering if I need to get the engine out of the frame or not.. are the bolts in line with the frame or is it possible? thanks for any advice! keep up with the good videos! cheers
This is a great set of videos thank you for sharing, i am a owner of a KLR650 1987 and thinking of doing this work, its still running well at 85,000 km. Is there more videos to come? i have watched 1to 9
Many thanks for the comment - Yes there is the build set coming up, starting with a look at the crank, but I would say I can't start the build until late Nov.. It will happen....
Unfortunately I've discovered you can't get that kit in the UK, so its probably the Wossner kit which you can get, but it stays the same at '650'. Ill get the case split vid up and then one looking at the transmission probably this week as it looks like its gonna come down stair rods here in the UK for at least 10 days - then theres a break while I get the case looked at and spares ordered some of which are Ex Japan stock.. Glad ur liking the vid - many thanks
Hi Rob - About 25000 miles - As its over 30 years old I think I doubt that - As soon as I get the casing back from the repairers Ill get back to the videos! many thanks.
It might be worn valve guides... In which case the smoking would probably stop once the engine is warmed up as the valve stems and guides expand slightly when hot...
I successfully rebuilt a 98 KLR650 using these videos. Thank you for making them.
Many thanks - glad they were of assistance!
Removing that camshaft caps same as on inline six engine is so good to watch :D
Absolutely brilliant mate.
I have watched the 9 videos many times from start to finish....... I have one issue, today I tore my engine apart in line with videos 1 - 9 and now I need you to finish the video series so I can finish my build. 😂😂
Very much looking forward to future videos, more helpful than the manual, that is for sure.
Hi Paul - Great to know it was of help - Snowed under with work at the moment, (wasn't expecting to be ) but I really need to get the build up underway. May be a while tho... Next video will be measuring the crankshaft limits..
Mine's a 1998. In my opinion the best looking Kawasaki KLR 650 (C)
Una pregunta esa cadenilla no lleva deslizador arriba con la. Gen 2
My '99 smokes like hell everytime I start it. Thinking I have to change the piston ring. Contemplating boring out to install 685 kit. The bike was down for a large chunk of the summer doing the doohickey so I gotta get cracking with a decision soon while its garaged for the winter.
Doesn't necessarily mean piston rings have had it - could be worn valve seals that are cold on start up therefore leaving a small gap for the oil (that is fed from the sump to the cylinder head via a external and clearly visible oil pipe on the 650 engine ) to get into the combustion chamber - As the valve stems heat up this gap closes somewhat and less oil is burnt - hence more smoke at start up. Good luck with it!!
@@themotorcycleshed380 It does smoke only at starting so valve seals may be the ticket. Now I look into that for diagnostics. I'm new to motorbikes and learning as I go. Thanks for the insight. Hoping that job isn't too involved.
The better way to check for top dead center are the arrows on the timing chain gears. The arrow should be pointing towards the front of the bike.
Thats definitely another way of doing this - regards
Do you put locktight on engine cylinder head bolts when reassemble the head . Great work brother .
Thanks for the comment - the short answer to locktite on the cylinder head bolts is no. The reason is that the bolts need to be torqued up ( in cross order and in stages ) and then the engine run. Once the engine has properly warmed up and then completely cooled down, the bolts need to re tourqed, due to the expansion and contraction of the metals and the compression of the head gasket in this first run period - If Locktite is used and then set between the first heating and cooling cycle, it may not be possible to finally tighten the head bolts properly. Its better to make sure the threads are clean and the bolts can tighten in the threads of the block properly. For instance the Kawasaki manual actually says use a thin layer of Molybdenum grease on the threads and shanks of the bolts to make sure they seat and fully engage with the threads. I'm sure there may well be differing opinions out there about this, but this is my take on it!
Hi, I'm glad for this video a lot, can you advise me about KLR 's ? i have a tengai that smoke a bit (blue smoke) a but starts and runs well, so what yo think causing it? is the piston worned out either valve stem seal ?
It is a sign that oil is being burned in the combustion chamber, like you say its either valve stem seals or worn piston rings. If you are going to take the head off you might as well take the barrel off too and have a look. You do not have to take the engine out of the frame to get the head and barrel off. Get the CLYMER manual for the KLR. Glad you like the Videos! Good luck
Do you know roughly how many klms the engine has done.
Hi there, I'm looking to completly rebuild my kawasaki klr 250 engine... Would the 250 be the same as the 650? I hope so as I can use your well put together video 🤞
hello everyone! i've recently rebuilt my klr 650 engine using the clymer manual (I suggest everyone should have it, really useful) and still your video is as detailed as a written page, congrats! Unluckily I used a cheap gasket for the head and now after only 500kms I need to change it (with an original Kawasaki new spare). I was wandering if I need to get the engine out of the frame or not.. are the bolts in line with the frame or is it possible? thanks for any advice! keep up with the good videos! cheers
This is a great set of videos thank you for sharing, i am a owner of a KLR650 1987 and thinking of doing this work, its still running well at 85,000 km. Is there more videos to come? i have watched 1to 9
Many thanks for the comment - Yes there is the build set coming up, starting with a look at the crank, but I would say I can't start the build until late Nov.. It will happen....
ME TOO 😎
1987 A1. Just under 100.000 KM. Some ratteling from the chain now. Going to replace chain and Chainguides this winter.
Anti clockwise? I’m assuming you mean counter clockwise? Maybe your way is saying it is regional, very interesting.
A big job ahead. So you're fitting the 685kit? It will be interesting to see what you think of it once all done.
Unfortunately I've discovered you can't get that kit in the UK, so its probably the Wossner kit which you can get, but it stays the same at '650'. Ill get the case split vid up and then one looking at the transmission probably this week as it looks like its gonna come down stair rods here in the UK for at least 10 days - then theres a break while I get the case looked at and spares ordered some of which are Ex Japan stock.. Glad ur liking the vid - many thanks
Looking forward to this series......much thanks.
What mileage is on the engine?
Hi Rob - About 25000 miles - As its over 30 years old I think I doubt that - As soon as I get the casing back from the repairers Ill get back to the videos! many thanks.
Hola , puedes hacer uno de la Kawasaki 650 C año 1995 ?, gracias , saludos desde España 👍
Thanks for this
Many thanks - Engine casing comes back next week from the repairers so hopefully I can get on with the rebuild!
Is it same on kawasaki klr 600?
Precisely. I’m currently rebuilding my 600 1985
Think I'm about to give this a go myself, think my piston rings are fried, thing is smoking more than my gran.
I'm dreading it.
It might be worn valve guides... In which case the smoking would probably stop once the engine is warmed up as the valve stems and guides expand slightly when hot...
Es igual a la klx 650C
I have
Something about turning the engine the wrong way while finding tdc wouldn't allow me to take any of the rest of the video seriously. Sorry.