Thank you for the table showing suggested engine size and bar/cut width. I’ve never seen that before and helps me understand the likely limits of my set up. All the best.
Fantastic tutorial on how to use the chainsaw mill. Looks like this model is rough on your hands, not just your back. I'm happy to see you actually cutting hardwood and not the soft pine so many of the demonstrators use. You also show how slow the real cut is without speeding up the video for the whole thing. Thanks for that too. I think I'll need more of a stand up system because of the strain on the back. Thanks again for a great tutorial
Chain Tension.....sorry for late reply. There is a certain amount of play in the bar at the bar nuts that needs to be corrected during the chain tensioning process. When tensioning the chain, always make sure to lift up the tip (front ) of the bar as you are tightening the bar nuts. This will ensure the chain is tensioned correctly for the downward or forward motion of the push through the log.
At first when you were showing all the details about safety gear , fuel oil mix ratio etc I thought it was too much detail. But later I loved all the details e.g. I NEVER knew how EXACTLY was the chainsaw (its blade base and its tip ) fastened in the saw bracket, never knew how the thickness of the cut was set until I saw YOUR video. I have seen a bunch of videos and none of them showed it in AN UNDERSTANDABLE way. Thanks
Great video. After 1st cut, 2nd cut you were kindof guessing on level till both beams were on the top flat. Need an extension on front side so 2nd cut is level at the beginning. When you attached ladder to log, I'd use 2 long screws separated widthwise so ladder doesn't lean/wobble with the weight of the chainsaw. May put spacers between wood&ladder, especially on saw side. Thx for the info. Alot of help in me making a decision on which mill to buy. I just want to cut beams for timberframe house or shop.
I didn't read all 150 comments but here's two that might be helpful: safety gear - I noticed you were wearing tennis shoes. Word of caution, consider wearing work boots, perhaps with steel toes. Also, with a bar as big as 36", don't forget to warm up the chain and then re-tighten it before you mill. A chain that long will stretch and get loose, especially if brand new. You don't want it to loosen while cutting. I use a Husky 2100CD with a 36" bar and chain stretch can be important to watch out for.
The reason the chain has become loose after the first pass and the chain became "dull" is mainly because the the saw oil pump is probably not ajusted or maybe can't even oil enough the lenght of this chain properly. You must had an extra oil reserve at the end of the bar ideally, or your chain will overheat, making it strecht like this (specially with Oregon's steel, it will strecht more than Stihl or Husq). If you tight it after every pass, you'll eventually break it. Also, when overheating, the teeth loose their temper (might be a traduction error here), so they wont cut as much. All this because the chain wasn't oiled properly.
Quick note: your stance to the side and bent over is going to be very hard on your lower back. (Take it from me, you don't want lower back issues). If you take a knee and get behind the mill, it will be easier on your back and not as tiring. It's much easier to push/lean on the top cross bar. This vid should help many get started making their own lumber. Very rewarding! Thx and keep it up.
johnsobj also it helps a tremendous amount if he can get the log up off tye ground a few feet. i put mine on cender blocks and it helps a lot. i have back issues and that takes a lot of stress off my back.
I have watched several of these videos and nearly all use the ladder all the time. After watching your video I can tell it would be much easier to get your saw started at the end.
Hi Richard, Kim from Pantherpros Great video, I read some of the comments and saw that you said you didn't receive instructions, I'm sorry about that, they should have been in there, please e-mail me and I will send some to you. I'd like to offer some suggestions on milling and perhaps should do some better video, then my basic ones.. First get the log to a comfortable working height, it will be a much better experience, second you have the mill backwards, turn it around so the push bar raised horizontal grey bar is at the back of the log, this helps put your body in a better position for milling, better for the long haul. also let your saw warm up and cool down when milling don't start it up then shut it right down as you finish the cut let it idle a minute. also the trick with water in an auxiliary water does work, I Use real pine-sol and water 5 parts H2O:1 part pine-sol. I hope this helps, the spacer idea is good as well but if you roll the mill to it's side u can use a tape measure to get your thickness of cuts as well.
Yes, if you could send the instructions I would love to remake the video. Maybe start from putting the mill together to using it to cut a log. I have much better video equipment now and I would make the video more concise and professional. I couldn't find your email on the website, so if you could email me at rcgoodman@me.com. Thanks for the tips and I'm looking forward to making a new video.
Dang! I knew there was something wrong with the operation of the sawmill! That was the most awkward position to operate it. You normally push the mill from the back, not from the side. Sorry to hear you are out of business now.
also if you lift one end of log and go at it at an angle , the weight of saw and the blade will pull it self into log and almost pull it self with out having to push and rock bar back & forth , I have milled a little , and agree rough on back that low every bit of info helps lol nice video
hey richard. That was a very useful video, thank you. I have just purchased my first saw and have a few trees which i would like milled into slabs. this was just what i needed.
i read through many of your comments and maybe this is a repeat but there are at least 2 types of chains available for a saw. one is called a "ripping " chain for milling. I heard you say in the video that your saw is throwing out "fine" sawdust so you need to sharpen it. Hence, I think you are running the wrong chain because a ripping chain actually throws out fine sawdust. look into that. And thanks for the video.
Thanks, excellent presentation. Concise instructions that are meaningful. Not a lot of blather, hearing yourself talk. Some comments below are useful too.
I suppose having a helper on the opposite side of the mill would be nice, however most of our 'friends' would find other things to be doing on milling day. Oh well.. I have a 22" birch log to deal with before it rots.
Great video, but... Theres NO mention of a level. If you dont level the ladder in the first place and it has even the slightest twist all slabs cut from that log after this will have the same twist. The milll itself needs at least one (probably two) more cross supports to sit flat on the top of the log after youve made the first start cut. Also, if you debark the tree / log you are about to cut your chain will stay sharper longer.
I think it was stated below, but you mounted the chainsaw wrong. The chainsaw head should be on the other side of the mill. That way the elevated bar becomes your push bar. Outside of that, great detailed video.
I've done my share of slabs and just realized the secret. water. I attach a bottle with a hose that pours onto tip of bar and my chain is always clean and never hot. and it is the difference of night and day. cuts like a hot knife through butter.
Hi, Great video, very informative! thanks! I have a fewvquestions, I plan on buying the panther mill. when milling a long log, does the ladder sag in the middle? also, coud you please post a link for the ripping chain you use?
The logs I milled up were 8' and 9' long and I didn't have any problems with the ladder flexing or sagging. I just ordered the ripping chain from Amazon. It was the WoodlandPRO ripping chain. I used a 36" bar and chain. Just make sure you get the right chain for your bar (number of drive links, gauge and pitch). Hope that helps and good luck!
After milling your timber/slabs, how and how long do they need to dry/cure before you make something with them? Would hate to go through all this work and make a pretty table only to have it look like it belongs in a house of mirrors a couple months later.
The general rule, if you are going to sticker and air dry the lumber yourself, is about 1 year per inch of thickness. I left them in my garage and they only took about 6 months. I did use a moisture meter to check the moisture content from time to time. I would say if the moisture in the wood is about 8-10 percent you should be safe to start milling it up.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Bravo je n'ai pas tout compris mais c'est un super système. j'aurais mis deux petites pattes perpendiculaires a la première barre pour être certain d être bien a plat (parallèle a la surface du bois) et sur la même hauteur que la deuxième barre qui n'est pas encore rentrer dans le bois en début de coupe. je rajouterai une barre de préhension pour que tu puisses travailler debout et qui te servirai d'appui sur le système entier .
I´m confused because you mention a Husqvarna 872xp and then I can see that you are working with a 372xp. which one r u talking about??? And I would like to know the length of the bar you use to replace the previous one??
I have the 372XP. It has a cylinder displacement of 70cc. The 555 has 60cc. Any chainsaw over 50cc is considered Heavy Duty. So, your 555 should be able to get the job done. Cylinder displacement "refers to the volume of air that is displaced by an engine’s cylinders, which directly correlates with how much power is ultimately produced. Therefore an engine with a larger displacement will be more powerful." Also, the max. recommended bar length is 24" for your saw. Mine is 28", but I have been using a 36" bar in my mill with no problems.
You did extremely beautiful lovely job lman like your way how you made your planning and how' we need to run the tools thanks bud , absolutely I love you works.👍👍👍👍👍😎 Thanks for sharing man appreciate that.😳😳😳😳😳👍
Well ldid learned something from your work done ,for l heave done such a work yet l learnt lots from you.thanks honey ,what if you shares how to built achainshow mill from the beginning till finishes the rack show.
I do the same thing when i cut steel with my grinder back and forth motion I can cut a steel shaft off just perfect but you have to aquire the skill with practice they say practice makes perfect but that's not true it's proper practice that makes perfect good job my Russian friend from canada
I paid about $150.00 a few years ago. Not sure the price today. Here is a link to the website. If you need information about assembly let me know. pantherpros.com/
THANKS. Muchos pasos, todos Importantes. No obstante el corte de la chainsaw es lento ya que el marco limita el corte horizontal, por uno sinuoso, corte adelante la espada, después atrás. Creo qué hay ideas más simples para operar la motosierra.
It's funny how a lot of people wear tennis shoes to cut trees and when they get a serious foot injury they don't understand they shouldn't do that be safe
hello my friend i am from florina western macedonia i liked your patent a lot but it is a bit tedious maybe you have to edit it a bit to make the chainsaw move more easily otherwise it was awesome.👍🇬🇷👌
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the table showing suggested engine size and bar/cut width.
I’ve never seen that before and helps me understand the likely limits of my set up.
All the best.
Hi, sir I Like your wood cutting style. I am Benjamin carpenter from India Assam
Fantastic tutorial on how to use the chainsaw mill. Looks like this model is rough on your hands, not just your back. I'm happy to see you actually cutting hardwood and not the soft pine so many of the demonstrators use. You also show how slow the real cut is without speeding up the video for the whole thing. Thanks for that too. I think I'll need more of a stand up system because of the strain on the back.
Thanks again for a great tutorial
Look up izzy swan chainsaw mill. Heck of a system
Chain Tension.....sorry for late reply. There is a certain amount of play in the bar at the bar nuts that needs to be corrected during the chain tensioning process.
When tensioning the chain, always make sure to lift up the tip (front ) of the bar as you are tightening the bar nuts. This will ensure the chain is tensioned correctly for the downward or forward motion of the push through the log.
Not necessary to lift up bar.
At first when you were showing all the details about safety gear , fuel oil mix ratio etc I thought it was too much detail. But later I loved all the details e.g. I NEVER knew how EXACTLY was the chainsaw (its blade base and its tip ) fastened in the saw bracket, never knew how the thickness of the cut was set until I saw YOUR video. I have seen a bunch of videos and none of them showed it in AN UNDERSTANDABLE way. Thanks
Love your attention to detail and the step by step process. Excellent instructional video!!!
Great video. After 1st cut, 2nd cut you were kindof guessing on level till both beams were on the top flat. Need an extension on front side so 2nd cut is level at the beginning.
When you attached ladder to log, I'd use 2 long screws separated widthwise so ladder doesn't lean/wobble with the weight of the chainsaw. May put spacers between wood&ladder, especially on saw side.
Thx for the info. Alot of help in me making a decision on which mill to buy. I just want to cut beams for timberframe house or shop.
I didn't read all 150 comments but here's two that might be helpful: safety gear - I noticed you were wearing tennis shoes. Word of caution, consider wearing work boots, perhaps with steel toes. Also, with a bar as big as 36", don't forget to warm up the chain and then re-tighten it before you mill. A chain that long will stretch and get loose, especially if brand new. You don't want it to loosen while cutting. I use a Husky 2100CD with a 36" bar and chain stretch can be important to watch out for.
Good points! Totally agree with you. I am definitely investing in a good pair of work boots. Thanks for your advice.
Thanks Richard, I have learned a lot from this video especially safety precaution 💪💪💪
the best explanation and easy to understand.
May be you can show us how to make that nice tool too
This is going to be one of the best instructional videos on chainsaw milling I’ve seen! Thank you so much for putting it together.
Beautiful Cherry Boards, so envious. Like your trick with the Wooden spacer blocks.
Thanks for making a video.
The reason the chain has become loose after the first pass and the chain became "dull" is mainly because the the saw oil pump is probably not ajusted or maybe can't even oil enough the lenght of this chain properly. You must had an extra oil reserve at the end of the bar ideally, or your chain will overheat, making it strecht like this (specially with Oregon's steel, it will strecht more than Stihl or Husq). If you tight it after every pass, you'll eventually break it. Also, when overheating, the teeth loose their temper (might be a traduction error here), so they wont cut as much. All this because the chain wasn't oiled properly.
Quick note: your stance to the side and bent over is going to be very hard on your lower back. (Take it from me, you don't want lower back issues). If you take a knee and get behind the mill, it will be easier on your back and not as tiring. It's much easier to push/lean on the top cross bar.
This vid should help many get started making their own lumber. Very rewarding! Thx and keep it up.
johnsobj also it helps a tremendous amount if he can get the log up off tye ground a few feet. i put mine on cender blocks and it helps a lot. i have back issues and that takes a lot of stress off my back.
Great explanation and detailing of the steps. Appreciated. Thanks!
Very good video. I'm just in the dreaming stage, but still enjoy the thought of being able to use some of the trees on our acreage.
Thanks for the video, it helps me a lot.
permission, bro, just asking for an explanation about what sthil ms 180 can be used on that machine and can it be replaced with a 20 inch bar or ??
I have watched several of these videos and nearly all use the ladder all the time. After watching your video I can tell it would be much easier to get your saw started at the end.
Классная работа! Удачи Вам и здоровья всей вашей семье!
Hi Richard, Kim from Pantherpros Great video, I read some of the comments and saw that you said you didn't receive instructions, I'm sorry about that, they should have been in there, please e-mail me and I will send some to you. I'd like to offer some suggestions on milling and perhaps should do some better video, then my basic ones.. First get the log to a comfortable working height, it will be a much better experience, second you have the mill backwards, turn it around so the push bar raised horizontal grey bar is at the back of the log, this helps put your body in a better position for milling, better for the long haul. also let your saw warm up and cool down when milling don't start it up then shut it right down as you finish the cut let it idle a minute. also the trick with water in an auxiliary water does work, I Use real pine-sol and water 5 parts H2O:1 part pine-sol. I hope this helps, the spacer idea is good as well but if you roll the mill to it's side u can use a tape measure to get your thickness of cuts as well.
Yes, if you could send the instructions I would love to remake the video. Maybe start from putting the mill together to using it to cut a log. I have much better video equipment now and I would make the video more concise and professional. I couldn't find your email on the website, so if you could email me at rcgoodman@me.com. Thanks for the tips and I'm looking forward to making a new video.
Dang! I knew there was something wrong with the operation of the sawmill! That was the most awkward position to operate it. You normally push the mill from the back, not from the side.
Sorry to hear you are out of business now.
P pi I 9th it if u rikllllll
also if you lift one end of log and go at it at an angle , the weight of saw and the blade will pull it self into log and almost pull it self with out having to push and rock bar back & forth , I have milled a little , and agree rough on back that low every bit of info helps lol nice video
Muchas Gracias, sencillamente genial
Ver usefull on how you set up the mill. The mill you are using is identical to my home welded mill.
hey richard. That was a very useful video, thank you. I have just purchased my first saw and have a few trees which i would like milled into slabs. this was just what i needed.
Ñ
Red Erre I free
i read through many of your comments and maybe this is a repeat but there are at least 2 types of chains available for a saw. one is called a "ripping " chain for milling. I heard you say in the video that your saw is throwing out "fine" sawdust so you need to sharpen it. Hence, I think you are running the wrong chain because a ripping chain actually throws out fine sawdust. look into that. And thanks for the video.
Thanks Bro very nice boards
I love forests, hunting experience, English Russian cabins, shacks
Hey you know safety is the first priority do you have boots on or tennis shoes
Thanks, excellent presentation. Concise instructions that are meaningful. Not a lot of blather, hearing yourself talk. Some comments below are useful too.
An excellent very helpful video thanks for the help iam just buying my first mill so thanks. 👏👏👏👏👍
I like the way you added so much detail for good instruction. My only suggestion would be less camera movement in the beginning.
Remember to lift your bar tip when you’re tensioning your chain👍 good video the spacer idea is great
Not necessary.
Excellent video my friend, thanks for sharing, I will check out the panther Pro guys saw mill stuff. thanks again and have a blessed weekend.
Nice video. I like that mill - simple and sturdy. It should last forever. Unfortunately, it looks like Panther went out of business.
The push bar on the mill should be on the other side?
Yes, I just realized that recently. The mill does not come with any instructions when you get it from Panther Mills. Thank you though.
Great...Thank you, your video was very helpful.
I suppose having a helper on the opposite side of the mill would be nice, however most of our 'friends' would find other things to be doing on milling day.
Oh well.. I have a 22" birch log to deal with before it rots.
So true Martino. Good luck with the birch log.
You are chainsaw wood cutting teacher
Great video, but...
Theres NO mention of a level.
If you dont level the ladder in the first place and it has even the slightest twist all slabs cut from that log after this will have the same twist.
The milll itself needs at least one (probably two) more cross supports to sit flat on the top of the log after youve made the first start cut.
Also, if you debark the tree / log you are about to cut your chain will stay sharper longer.
I just bought my chainsaw and mill. Thanks for the great tutorial and tips.
I think it was stated below, but you mounted the chainsaw wrong. The chainsaw head should be on the other side of the mill. That way the elevated bar becomes your push bar. Outside of that, great detailed video.
what size bar are you using on the chain saw please
Thanks Richard I appreciate it is helpful for me.
You’re welcome! I’m glad it was helpful.
hi.
well explain and presented.
I've done my share of slabs and just realized the secret. water. I attach a bottle with a hose that pours onto tip of bar and my chain is always clean and never hot. and it is the difference of night and day. cuts like a hot knife through butter.
Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try. I am hoping to get a bandsaw mill someday to make the milling go much faster.
Great job buddy 👏👏👏
Hi, Great video, very informative! thanks!
I have a fewvquestions, I plan on buying the panther mill. when milling a long log, does the ladder sag in the middle?
also, coud you please post a link for the ripping chain you use?
The logs I milled up were 8' and 9' long and I didn't have any problems with the ladder flexing or sagging. I just ordered the ripping chain from Amazon. It was the WoodlandPRO ripping chain. I used a 36" bar and chain. Just make sure you get the right chain for your bar (number of drive links, gauge and pitch). Hope that helps and good luck!
Thanks!! 😊
Nice video I am from Indonesia like it
After milling your timber/slabs, how and how long do they need to dry/cure before you make something with them? Would hate to go through all this work and make a pretty table only to have it look like it belongs in a house of mirrors a couple months later.
The general rule, if you are going to sticker and air dry the lumber yourself, is about 1 year per inch of thickness. I left them in my garage and they only took about 6 months. I did use a moisture meter to check the moisture content from time to time. I would say if the moisture in the wood is about 8-10 percent you should be safe to start milling it up.
@@Richard_Goodman i have a 272xp , do you think it has the stones to run a mill? Its 5.2 hp if im not mistaken.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Thanks for this, great tutorial
Bravo je n'ai pas tout compris mais c'est un super système. j'aurais mis deux petites pattes perpendiculaires a la première barre pour être certain d être bien a plat (parallèle a la surface du bois) et sur la même hauteur que la deuxième barre qui n'est pas encore rentrer dans le bois en début de coupe. je rajouterai une barre de préhension pour que tu puisses travailler debout et qui te servirai d'appui sur le système entier .
I´m confused because you mention a Husqvarna 872xp and then I can see that you are working with a 372xp. which one r u talking about??? And I would like to know the length of the bar you use to replace the previous one??
Where can i get it from
what length is your mill?
what size or model is your chainsaw. I have a new husky 555, would that be enough power?
I have the 372XP. It has a cylinder displacement of 70cc. The 555 has 60cc. Any chainsaw over 50cc is considered Heavy Duty. So, your 555 should be able to get the job done. Cylinder displacement "refers to the volume of air that is displaced by an engine’s cylinders, which directly correlates with how much power is ultimately produced. Therefore an engine with a larger displacement will be more powerful." Also, the max. recommended bar length is 24" for your saw. Mine is 28", but I have been using a 36" bar in my mill with no problems.
Also, the more cc an engine has the faster it can cut.
You did extremely beautiful lovely job lman like your way how you made your planning and how' we need to run the tools thanks bud , absolutely I love you works.👍👍👍👍👍😎 Thanks for sharing man appreciate that.😳😳😳😳😳👍
What price this item
Great vid the one thing they could improve on is that the chain is toward the edge of the frame so it does not drop off has more support.
or adding a center frame support... been there
vous ne faites pas de plan?
very informative, thanks for the tips
👏👏👏👏 EXCELENTE, saludos desde bs.as Argentina
Well ldid learned something from your work done ,for l heave done such a work yet l learnt lots from you.thanks honey ,what if you shares how to built achainshow mill from the beginning till finishes the rack show.
Love this
Thank you. The mill you used is not in production at the moment.
Richard, muchisimas gracias, abrazo.
RIGHTY TIGHTY!!!!!!!!
sos un genio. muy buen video.
I do the same thing when i cut steel with my grinder back and forth motion I can cut a steel shaft off just perfect but you have to aquire the skill with practice they say practice makes perfect but that's not true it's proper practice that makes perfect good job my Russian friend from canada
Good job
How much prize of this mill??
And how to install pls.
I paid about $150.00 a few years ago. Not sure the price today. Here is a link to the website. If you need information about assembly let me know. pantherpros.com/
Gracias.aprendi mucho.
Disculpa esa barra le trae tu motosierra es 34 pulgadas de larga disculpa y la moto 3.90 verda
Panther has shut down their site and they have no idea if they are going to resume operations
What size is that square tube on there and what size is the rectangle tube? Thanks
All of the steel is 3/32" thick. The square tubes are 1"x1" OD and the rectangles are 1"x2" OD.
Thanks for the answers!
B-Rad Wilson jj
caza
Zgfrust,komentáře
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nice but I have a ? isn't it gets a problem in balancing in starting of the cut
weld a couple of square tubes between the long tubes to help get started streight good vid thanx
Form odisha nice video
THANKS. Muchos pasos, todos Importantes. No obstante el corte de la chainsaw es lento ya que el marco limita el corte horizontal, por uno sinuoso, corte adelante la espada, después atrás. Creo qué hay ideas más simples para operar la motosierra.
Thanks for the tip!
Parabens pelo video,..
Just brilliant thank you
Good job amigo
Interesting. Thanks for the info.
It's funny how a lot of people wear tennis shoes to cut trees and when they get a serious foot injury they don't understand they shouldn't do that be safe
Great explaining! thanks
it Would Be Nice If It Had Pull Pins Already Set To 2,4 Or 6 Inches Pre Set ...
Bueno muy bueno gran idea
how build the structure.......please material.....
dang, sharpen that saw!
Banladesh a ki pawa jaba
Your using a crescent wrench that is to large plus that's a knuckle buster and will round off your bolts other than that good vidio
チエンソー製材機を検討しています。たいへん参考になりました。
And need to get a logger to show you how to put a edge on that chain
hello my friend i am from florina western macedonia i liked your patent a lot but it is a bit tedious maybe you have to edit it a bit to make the chainsaw move more easily otherwise it was awesome.👍🇬🇷👌
Thanks, that was great!
Nice sir I like it
बहुत ही अच्छा है
Valeu amigo,
A good one I think I m get into it but I figured how to get it off the ground