Xbox One S All Digital Randomly SHUTTING DOWN + Faulty CONTROLLER - Can I FIX Them?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ธ.ค. 2021
- Here we have a faulty Xbox One All Digital which randomly shuts down. Also the controller is acting weird. I believe they were purchased faulty from eBay.
Can they both be fixed?
They were sent in by Dean from Puddlt. Puddlt are the creators of the MMV merch which you can check out here :
www.puddlt.com/my-mate-vince
If you would like to support these videos, please click here / mymatevince
If you have an interesting 'non returnable' item for a 'trying to fix' video then my PO box is:
PO Box 2597
WATFORD
WD18 1HT
UK
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. - เกม
“And now look: it’s not turning back on, ¡YES!”
Awesome video Vince. Keep up the content and thanks for many hours of enjoyment.
The enthusiasm in that one got me too!
It's great to see the fault finding and repair attempts, even if something is unrepairable I like the journey you take to find out what is wrong and not just replace non working parts with new parts. Great content imo, I've been a long time watcher and it's great to see how far you have come with these "let's see if we can fix IT" videos. Keep it up buddy :) you keep me very entertained and of course educated with your content.
no doubt totally agree! well put. truly ty
So satisfying to end up with a handful of scrap and a working system! Thanks for the entertainment Vince!
Yep, i would go for caps too, they probably go high on ESR, those 820uF can be replaced by 1000uF it will be even better there but you have to be sure you replace them with 105 deg. Low ESR ones. On Switch Mode Power Supplies - electrolytic caps always fail sooner or later, that is their Achilles spot. A desoldering gun?! Now that is full set and a game changer for desoldering any true hole component ;) I've build my own and i dare you to make video on building your own tools ;)
I dunno. Caps are a lot better these days. Unless they have been abused. They were a problem in the mid 2000s to earley 2010s
@@FennecTECH It is exactly opposite and they abuse them
Vince. Your videos are so pleasant to watch and yet I learn so much. thank you!
What a nice time I had watching your whole video! Very informing and entertaining. Thank you very much.
I'm so happy I found this channel, I have been learning some things with your videos, great content!.
Nice! Loved the bonus dog poo rant! 😁
🐶💩 =🤮
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great content Vince, love the long videos
Very well done work. I love your channel. Heads up and keep going that way you doing
I love your videos
Thank you Vince for cleaning that up for me! I didn't know that shellfish dish had gone wrong.. 37:04 🤣
Oh i really enjoyed this one!
Thank you and Dean!
ive learnt so much from watching these vids so keep fixing and uploading brilliant channel
Hi Vince. Really enjoyed your videos for quite some time now and they have inspired me to trying to fix some things of my own (and bought from Ebay). Keep going with the content as thoroughly enjoy what you do. One question however is what has happened to the My Mate Vince facebook fanclub sponsoring the videos? keep the content coming please and stay safe and well
HI vince watch your vids for a couple of years love the content my favorite vid is when you used an antena on an xbox one x to a verry old tv keep up the work my mum bought some merch for christmas wich is the mug use it every day and im becoming a member happy knew year vince
Thank you so much for watching the vids and buying the mug🙂👍 Happy New year to you and your family too🥳
Great fixes, Vince! Always seems so crazy that not even a handful of components can bring a whole system down. On a side note, I need to get one of those desoldering guns. The cheap desoldering pumps can be a pain, lol.
There’s special tape u can use to suck up solder to
@@howtowithelizabeth7513 If you're referring to desoldering wick, I've known about that for many years (and have some), but would still like to have a desoldering gun vs using the pump or wick.
Super vlog Vince you have come a long way from the Nintendo Switch killer ,🤣 loved this vlog stay safe my friend.
Fantastic timing 👏 Just in time for tea time viewing.
awesome fix video Vince well done for getting all working again :) bloody caps eh :)
Amazing fix Vince …when u said u heard a click I swore it was the hard drive …I don’t think these Xbox would turn on with a faulty hard drive …but it seems u were right. It was the power supply….amazing fix Vince
I agree on the caps. Some people leave things plugged in and powered for a long time. I use usb phone chargers on my cctv cameras, they have back up battery inline but the chargers last about 6 (on 24/7) months before losing capacity to charge and camera alerts power failure
Like ur videos mate keep the good work up mate 👍👍
I have heard that Microsoft pretty much just took the disc drive out with the all digital and did not redesign the motherboard (i have heard the all digital motherboard even has the connectors for a disc drive, but the firmware has been programmed to not look for the disc drive), so i am not surprised that the power supplies are interchangeable between the two systems
It wouldn't have made sense for them to use a different power supply - it's effectively in the same shell and it would probably cost them more if they did use a different model.
I suppose the drive is married to the board as well - so if this married chip on the drive does not have the CPU keys it won’t work … (cfr PS4)
No, the firmware also isn't different. With a disk-based Xbox One the motherboard and the daughterboard (the board in the disk drive) are matching and because there is no matching daughterboard for an all-digital Xbox One motherboard, any disk drive you'll plug in will return a key mismatch and therefore won't get recognized.
@@MyRegardsToTheDodo as I suspected - I don’t see how programming these is impossible - a Nintendo switch’s emmc can he rebuilt
@@cheapasstech It's not impossible, IF you manage to hack into the Xbox One and extract the key from the mainboard, and then find a way to flash the daughterboard on the drive. It was possible on the Xbox 360 with RGH. However, the Xbox One isn't even remotely hacked and probably will never be. The Nintendo Switch's pre-2019 models are fully hacked, that's why you can rebuild the emmc on these consoles, if you manage to get the keys from the old emmc (doesn't work on the Switch Lite or any newer Switch Phat models, and definitely not on the OLED models). If your old emmc is so far gone that you can't extract the keys, you're also screwed. Also, the Switch's emmc is rewriteable memory, while the Xbox's drive key is stored on read-only memory on the drive and the board.
one of your best videos yet.
Hi Vince - Nice video, by the way, the click comes from the small speaker on the motherboard as the power is cutting out
Using your son as a game tester, to make sure you fixes work.
it's basically like a Victorian workhouse or something off Oliver twist 😉
great work as per usual. there something strangely satisfy about your videos. but your kitchen white goods haven't broken recently so I'm sure there one due to fail soon.
have a good Christmas
Excellent as always Vince, thanks for entertaining us with these, and the music... if anyone is familiar with "Chrono CRoss" from the PS1, sounds VERY familiar!!
Nice one Mike 👍👍
Uh Hi Vince
I watch You Vince
I love you Vince
I'm a celebrity
Vince, never EVER EVER replace caps with lower voltage ones. I almost lost an eye when a 12v rail failed on a DVR (which I didn't know, I just assumed that caps were faulty, since they were bulging), and I replaced the bulged out caps. When I turned the DVR on, the new caps I installed immediately blew, and capacitor juice went straight to my face. Good thing it missed my eyes, or that could have ended really badly. Be safe!
I like things to go bang, but that's scary 😳. I always power up out of range, using extension cord.
@@jonathaningram4672 It's a good thing that het clipped the power supply casing back together before testing.
I am a beginner but I have also heard that you can replace caps with same or bigger voltage rating and capacity not lower. Correct me if am wrong
@@renataavgeri1132 Same here, higher capacity not lower otherwise erm goggled people, this could get messy. Tee hee
@@renataavgeri1132 In some cases, yes you can use a higher voltage rating, but not always. Once you start getting into capacitors with a voltage rating higher than 50v, the internal layout of the plates is different to allow for higher voltages to be used. This can increase the ESR of the capacitor to the point where it becomes a problem on circuits designed to operate at lower voltages. Something else that increases ESR is the capacitor size. In electrolytic capacitors, the smaller the capacitor is, the higher the ESR is going to be. So I don't recommend using those cheap generic Chineseium caps you find on ebay that are the size of a grain of rice, they definitely can cause problems.
If you don't want to have a big inventory of capacitors to account for all of the various voltages, you can just stock 25 and 50v caps for all of the smaller ranges under 1000uF, where size generally isn't too critical. For above 1000uF, you'll generally be fine with 16v and 25v rated caps. Unless you're working on specialized power supplies with high voltage rails, you generally don't see large value caps over 25v.
So funny hearing you so excited and happy that it was broken. 🤣
well done buddy!! well repaired !!
Love it well done keep it up .Thanks 😀
i honestly thought that replacing the joystick component... be it the potentiometers or the entire assembly, resulted in the need to calibrate?? another great video Vince :)
Loved how excited you got when you saw it had a issue 😂 top video as always vince 🙂
Another great and entertaining fix
Great video as usual, I do have one question though; What is that little computer you're using? it looks neat, I think I need one! :)
I enjoy your vids, want more of em please
You are so wonderful Vince. Nice fix. My wife and I also rant about dog crap; we always thought that it was an American thing not picking your dogs poop up.
Nice job Mr 👏
This utterly was enjoyable to watch.
Nice fix Vince! Would you mind linking the de-soldering station you used for the carbon tracks? Been struggling with an iron and spring loaded one for too long now!
I would be interested also.
Looks like the Anesty ZD-915.
Hi vince , goog job !
What's the model of your desoldering gun ? Please answer.
Excellent vid 👍
Those Capacitors are from Chin San (Elite?) and of the RP Series. The 820µF/16V are 10x12mm
12mOhm Impedance, 5300mA Ripple. And they are Polymer Types.
And pls don't replace these with high Impedance 85°C General Purpose ones...
Low ESR is what you need for modern stuff. Something like Panasonic FR, FM (replacement for Nippon KZG and other Ultra Low ESR, up to around 1500µF or so)...
Vince what I seen this week is a guy using IPA to remove security stickers, as once the IPA dries then the glue on the label will work again. but also saves from ripping the label.
good one Vince yeah so alps pots and faders are in every pioneer mixer on earth
Great video Vince =D Those caps in the PSU with the purple tops, they are Polymer type! It's always a good idea to fit that type in those PSUs. They have a much longer life vs Aluminium types.
Thank you Chris, I didn't realise they lasted longer. I just ordered them from RS components but had to buy 25 of them 😥 Once they arrive I will swap them out along with the 50V 100uF one. At least I will have enough for 11 power supplies 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Just remember to get low-ESR capacitors, as switching PSUs shouldn't use general purpose caps. You need to look up specific series in caps to find suitable ones.
good job mate.
Very nice fixes :) Just wondering what was the manufacturing date for the console? A bit worrying that caps fail already, even it's pretty new, just few years old.
My Xbox One S 1Tb disc version goes out of warranty tomorrow by the way, hope it continues working for as long as possible :)
I once had an Xbox One X that failed after about 30 minutes, took a few times to restart, and failed again shortly after. I then had to wait for a while and it would work again for about 30 minutes or so, then crash again, rinse and repeat. Never figured out what was wrong with it, I put in a new harddrive, new PSU, even new fans. Might have been caps-related too.
Mine's going strong. It's probably five years old at this point.
The blue capacitor you replaced looks like it may have started venting. It looked like it was slightly bulging.
So it may have been that one which was fine under low load and then failed during higher loads of gaming.
Then you removed the power supply and it had a chance to cool down, then failed under load again.
It's usually caps when there's an intermittent fault I've found!
This is because the psu in these xboxe's stay fully active and never goes to sleep even though the xbox itself is in standby or powered off and that can put alot of strain and wear on the psu.
Actually I did not see this cap was bulging but the capacity decrease its definite sign of wearing out. Yes I know the 20% tolerance but that is usually uppers the low side is much lower. But the biggest argument is this 100 uF cap should be in the feedback line and that can cause really strange issues. The other two big buffer not really problematic in this age of own.
Caps are rated tolerance around up to 20% so 1000MF should be ok and a little extra filtering or capacity wont hurt unless it relates to speed in filling up and discharging and on output you always want to use LOW esr types for fast outputs on switchers but for testing just use regular ones as the low esr relates to time of life and frankly i have use reg one with much higher voltage ratings so they will be hard to break even with the faster pulses so if the old was was 16V, i would put in a 50V or little lower if it could fit, or parallel then together with total of say 800mf so 2 absorb the punishment that one would. In Fact a good design if not costly would be to double the caps to give the wanted MF each time and thus much longer reliability. The caps on the primary side rarely fail for various reasons but mosfets can if they put in small ones and without enough heatsink in a sealed plastic box with no holes!!
I’d be very interested if you got a hand on the newest consoles and tried fixing them for the fun of it, I would definitely watch.
On your road Royce You want to get hold of the Haynes workshop menu you'll find it a lot easier So far I'm enjoying your build and all your other videos or other videos take care and I wouldn't muck around with a pale's supply as they can catch ftry it Stay safe
What desoldering gun do you use Vince & what's the make & model of your soldering station please? I've got to get one of those, they look like they save a lot of frustration etc
Nice vid as alway vince your very inspiring
When your console breaks: "Crap"
When Vince's console breaks: "Yes!!"
Those aluminium caps look like Solid state polymers and were most likely fine, unlike electrolytics they have an extremely long service life and are very low ESR, which in modern switch mode power supplies And more specifically the boards they're supplying is very important. The electrolytic you replaced however was most likely the cause, did look a bit sketchy. As always I enjoyed this one.
Nice vid. I am going to release my first video soon. You inspire me keep up the vids
i love your videos so much!!
Thank you Vince, i've just managed to repair my son's controller which had a dirty pot. Cleaned it with IPA and now good as new again. The laptop you use for the Game Controller Tester. What make is it and if you have the model number that would be great.
Nice fix!
Heheh it's funny how happy you are "please don't work", "yesss!". I totally understand why, and i am here for that reason, but it's just so funny. :D
Great video. TY
10:23 A third of the PCB is just to fit equal length traces to the memory 🙂
The first 2 can caps are solid caps that last 10x longer than electrolytic, ie, you don't see repairers ever changing them, and you can tell because it doesn't have the X on top that allows electros to vent safely. Can caps with X are electros.
I would say its the 100uF 50v cap as I believe it is a boot strap cap used to power up the SMPS offline switcher IC, if the voltage on that is not stable the PSU will either not turn on at all or it will (as in the video) randomly switch off. 23:14
Excellent :)
Different is Vince usually people are not sick on you on purpose, but whoever leaves there dog muck laying around absolutely knows what there doing.
Excelent video.
I had that issue where it would beep and not turn on because the power supply was drawing more amps so it would not turn on if i had it plugged on to a power surge protector.
That wad very interesting... 3 capacitors knocked out the whole console!!! Imagine how many of these will be thrown away for 3 failed caps!!!
Hey vince do you mind giving us a link to the desoldering station you use. Thanks!
Great as ever Vince 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I know what you mean about dog dirt though 🤢 i had a bird s**t on me once, i never went out with her again 😉😁
I've had the same "skipping over multiple things" problem on the xbox one s. I just got the controller replaced, cause I still had warranty.
And a friend had is on the original xbox one.
The white staining on the underside of the pcb is normal, it’s a remainder of the cleaning process after soldering
Hey Vince any chance of a Tea Break video on cleaning dog doo off your kids shoes :)
could be cold solder joint too
"It doesn't bother me... It's just dead skin" - that made me chuckle.
🤣👍
Would it be worse if it was live skin?
@@Jeff121456 I guess it would depend if the controller was made of living flesh :P
nice vid its deffo hdd i had the same problem befor
35:09 -- LOL the captions said "an adhesive clean"
Vince for your info liquid metal is use not thermal paste that's why it looks different
That wasn't liquid metal, liquid metal for one is always a liquid (never drys) secondly it's a shiny silver color not just solid grey.
Please do more gaming console repair.
Desperate times mate... If ever in doubt...maje a fault and fix fault.... 👍👍
Please post the link for the De soldering device 🙏
38:42 Thats why i don`t use ebay potentiometers. When he goes up and down on the right thumbstick, it`s nothing nothing and then all at once. Good luck aiming with that.
I don't mind cleaning gamer gunk out of controllers without gloves. Surex gamer gunk is gross to look at but, like you said, it's just swest residue and skin cells. Nothing unhygenic about it.
Dog poo is gross in all regards, alot becauze it's just unhygenic to handle.
That analog sticks in your bag are not genuine Alps. They break more quckly and potentiometers go almost instatly from 0% to 100% with nothing between. Those not genuie Alps have number "33 18" one them. Love watching your videos
The heat transfer paste usually has bubbles
Multiple fixes. You are spoiling us. Maybe the cap leg was broken already
Isn't that song from Bejeweled?
Your reasoning seems correct. Apparently there is carbon that is worn away. And the system is programmed to initiate from the change. Then it fails because the carbon is missing and the reactant to the left is adding with the question that the normal explanation couldn't resolve. So it notices that way and resolves.
Tbh, if these pieces are swappable..Microsoft is doing a small justice.
Good deal for the kids. When you yell for them they get to play games to test a system. When my dad yelled for me it was to change the TV channel. Yeah I’m old @ 51
A awesome fix.
0:24 - was that a conscious decision to cut the package open in a an X?
Finally you got a desoldering iron. Yeah! ;)
A TH-cam technician should have immaculately clean fingers, and in Vinces case also an immaculately clean front room carpet. We'll done Vince/ Mrs Vince.
I had the same problem with my Xbox series S. I managed to get the power supply working by blowing air using compressed air or a hairdryer.
Could it also be that it is not powering on because there is a yellow light like mine on the power supply that would not let it turn on, but if I change the power cord it will let it work to stay white light.
Is it a good idea to be operating that xbox with the psu and hdd outside the case as they are both air cooled by the apu fan air flow, you may have shortened the life span of both those components.
He didn’t operate then for long, and the heat won’t build as much anyway due to it being open air. He likely didn’t shave any life off the components, or if he did it is negligible.
I heard TronicsFIx Describe the dirt in gamepads as finger cheese, I don't know why but that grossed me out a bit lol
Feel like I might have inadvertently destroyed an Xbox One S after watching this video. It had similar problems except it stopped turning on. Replaced the south bridge and it seemed to have worked for a few minutes then the same issue happened. I reballed the APU then it wouldn't turn on at all. The PSU was showing 12v on the multimeter but didn't have a known working, so I thought it was fine....I guess maybe it wasn't and couldn't handle the current load.