some common issues ive found when working on pal snes, the pico fuse (the little floating component) fails extremely often just from age but typically because of the 7805 voltage transformer failing also. the four rear most smd capacitors should always be replaced, they fail constantly but often leave the snes working in an intermittent state and eventually cause a black screen when they die, when they leak they can wreck the whole power circuit or often the audio. next cartridge ports have a tendency to condensate moisture and wick it down on to the board connector meaning the port can look clean but the board connector itself is corroded, its also good to check the boards underside for cracked solder joints on the connector. next step is the reset switch can often stick causing a reset loop that looks like a black screen, just desoldering it can be a good way to diagnose if its at fault. then finally the hardest to fix is cpu/ppu chip failure, although with flux and hot air they can be exchanged from donor boards the likelyhood is that even working chips will fail when exposed to even a fairly low temperature making it a challenging task.
@18:26 These get yellowed because they contain a certain fireproofing agent, the name escapes me. Sunlight might accelerate the process, but they all turn yellow eventually. @32:20 You should never start these with any of the rf shields missing, they play a huge part in the grounding, that's why the fuse went i'd bet.
Hey Vince. Great video. For the really Yellow ones, would you think it may be worth another try at the de-yellowing technique used by odd tinkering? He seems to have tremendous results and would strengthen the plastic on the most yellow. But even with retro bright they look great. You're definitely a legend. Videos are so open and honest and the work always insightful
I have a Snes which I put together with parts from a completely trashed console and some new case parts. The buttons were more yellow than black and front piece was as bad if not even worse than the yellow in this video and I got it a bit lighter than I wanted. however that was in the middle of the winter and no sun here then so instead of UV i just heated the Hydrogen peroxide and put the parts in it. The retrobright was done in less than 20 minutes and the result is flawless without any shift in color and are not going back to being yellow either
The silver SMD capacitors are known to leak and eat the traces away. I bought several high quality panasonic capacitors and replaced all capacitors on my own SNES before I got any damages. I also replaced all capacitors on a friends SNES, there they already were leaking, I came just in time. Also the reset button was not working on my SNES, some contact cleaner solved the problem. The SNES outputs RGB, I bought a rad2x HDMI cable. It was my first console, I got it from my parents for chistmas and it still is in use today :) Respect how you found the problem of all consoles and brought them back to life! R-E-S-P-E-C-T!
Yellowing can occur due to high heat and humidity, as well. There are lots of competing theories (oxygenation, bromine, etc.) about *why* it happens, but simple aging is the case, and high temperature + moisture will accelerate aging. The corrosion was also likely caused by moisture, as well, and slowly dissolved the trace. Great channel, love the content. Cheers!
Had to rewatch this because unbelievably I have 2 with the exact same symptoms. (Down to the alternate yellowing patterns!) The no power one is the fuse. One thing I read when looking into replacements is that you should use the 125V ones not 250V for better protection. They are also available from RS £0.79 each for 5. Great video as usual and thanks to everyone for the comments with good advice on the cause of the fuse blowing. 🥰
I'm not sure if the voltage actually matters, it's basically the highest voltage the fuse can break safely without exploding. Since we're on 9 V here, either fuse is so far out of its design range I really can't imagine it would matter.
Have many years experience with repair snes, nes and genesis consoles. Important for the next time, please make 2-3 power on/offs without ac adapter connected to unload the capacitors. Sometimes it could happen, that the rest of the capacity unload to ppu/ram and damages the parts. Nice video. Have fun! )
Great job vince. These videos give me great courage to do fixes on vintage electronics. I would not have this courage without you vince, keep up the great content !!
You got the fuse broken because the console keeps some power in the caps. Whenever you need to perform any repairs on an snes, after opening it, turn the console on so empty the capacitors and youll see the Power LED on for a second. When it goes off its safe to use the console. Not doing this can lead to blow the fuse. It happened to me too.
The yellowing when its uniform like that will be because they used to put bromide in the plastic as a fire deterrent. When its uniform yellowing like that that’s just age. The first one you fixed looked like someone had been in there before. There’s a lot of solder on the fuse pads
After a long day of working, your are the right guy to chill with. I like your videos so much. Thank you for that smooth kind of entertaining. Keep on going.
always change c59 on these consoles. they are part of the primary power supply system. they are of very poor quality, under great electrical stress and release liquid that corrodes the circuit underneath it and around it as you see in minute 52:26
Very nice video, calm, systematic, almost like watching a tv-show where you have to guess a bit but get to the great reveal at the end! I also learnt a thing or two, thanks a bunch mate!
I blew that fuse on my SNES because of static. I actually saw it happen. I was wearing football shorts while messing about with it which was a mistake. I actually saw a flash and a long thin spark hit the board. Still it was easy enough to sort.👍
I'm amazed at how easily they do blow. Watching back the video I didn't really manhandle the board. Unless it was static like yours...I was on a wool carpet???? Cheers Chris 👍
@@Mymatevince I have nintendo kiosks there fun the wii u kiosk is hard wired to the game pad as well. It also sends all power from the back of the unit to the gamepad.
Nice fixes as usual Vince, Exhaust heat was a special game for me, my dad bought it from Boots (the chemist) back when they sold games in the early 90s, the first SNES game and video game I ever got
I purchase my mega drive with sonic from boots. brother thought it would be a good idea to sell it and open a bank account with promises of buying more SNES games. I can't remember if he did buy more games, but I dinned out on the fact he sold it for years, once he was on the yts scheme earning 47 pound a week.
This was satisfying to watch! I actually have a similar SNES console, albeit it being a Super Famicom from Japan I got at a convention. I love the nonUS case design very much. I'm glad you got all 3 of these working (aside from the borrowed fuse situation). Also congrats on approaching 800k subs relatively soon! I think I subbed when you had like 200k if not a bit less! You've come such a long way! You rock!
Vince, I love how you can make fun of yourself and have the b***s to show that everyone can make mistakes. Been watching for years and you motivated me to get into repairs and as of late, start making my own videos. My mate vince, a true hero :)
That's great, now if you would be so kind as to post this video to me back in 1995 I may have been able to fix mine back then. Great video. Love your work.
You were so lucky Vince! :) All the ones I had with the black screen of death turned out to be dead CPUs which seems to be one of the most common faults.
I have probably commented it before, but I use solder as a temporary fuse when diagnosing things, just wrap it between the fuse holder sides. If there's a fault the solder melts very quickly :-)
Nice repairs. Small tip: For fixing the screw posts, as the plastic is ABS, make some ABS juice (slurry) or use straight acetone, it will melt the edges & make a really strong bond. I've never had much long term success with supa glue. Alternatively, replace the case completely, there are new aftermarket cases available.
Hey Vince, rule of thumb is never to short out fuses. There's always a possibility to fry something downstream. Ask me how I know! Great video anyways as always. Cheers!
Hey Vince, I remember reading an article a while ago now about the yellowing, it was something like - The discolouration is due to a flame retardant additive being added to the plastic and different parts would be made with different mixtures of the additive in batches, which would possibly explain the colour difference in different parts of the system
Really liked the longer video to be honest gets everything fixed and gives a surprise to next video instead of knowing there are another two very similar videos on the way great work keep it up
Hi Vince. Please put the SNES branding plate of the second SNES onto the first SNES you fixed. So it matches at least. I would like to see you retrobright the consoles and your SNES controller. Nice work as usual.
SNES? Yeah!! Killer Instinct? Yeahhhhh! Your 2nd fix will be very helpful for me, my SNES sometimes work and sometimes it doesn't: only display BSOD. Wasn't aware that you can remove the slot itself, but will have a look this weekend if it might be a broken trace too (or a faulty slot). Thanks Vince 🤝
Great job Vince!!! You really lucked out with those SNES (having genuine faults)! So many have bad CPU or PPU1/2 these days, and have been worked on before =/ BTW - heating those customs, they can often die with little heat! I am relieved you didn't need to swap any of them around! This is also one of the reasons I've not bothered with trying to fix many SNES myself!
I was doing one before Christmas, finally got it going and THEn realised half the video had cut off, so had to scrap it , was annoyed as had repaired some corroded traces, annoying :(
Yeah, the snes I’ve had since childhood recently just developed a bad ppu within the last couple of years, really unfortunate, I thought it was the capacitors at first but no dice.
Very lucky on all 3. Really unusual to find something like that job lot on eBay. All untouched and perfect little fixes... I loved working on them. Thanks Chris 😎
This is good timing. I received my SNES from eBay today that I bid on a few days ago. 2 controllers, 2 top games, an original power supply, and a 1 chip SNES (the best graphically) all for £60
Maybe use schematics from the start when available so you can actually learn where everything goes and what the components are instead of guessing. Every repair will give you a serious amount of knowledge + save time.
I'm glad you swapped the plastics over as I was thinking the same thing! I recall the severe yellowing was to do with the fire retardant chemicals added into the plastic during manufacture. I have first-generation machine (purchased on release) and no yellowing whatsoever! :)
Hi Vince, I've thoroughly enjoyed your channel content and watching you grow in regards to your abilities to repair many things. Very well done my friend. Kind regards. Paul.
Such a great video! I was having issues with not getting any power to my snes and yeah for me it has to be my port. Thank you for showing me how to check for dc/ac!
Hey Vince, an alternative to that specialist solder mask is UV hardened nail polish like they use at salons. Not sure which is cheaper where you are, but nail polish is cheap as chips in the US. It's solute is acetone or mineral spirits so IPA shouldn't attack it. Otherwise ladies' manicures would melt when they put on hand sanitizer.
Vince, if you're going to "retr0brite" the yellow SNES, be sure to either paint the plastic in the creamy peroxide and cover it with the plastic wrap. Or you can submerge it in water, adding liquid peroxide.
I blew out my SNES fuse because I went and used a 3rd party ac adapter that had a changable tip. And the positive and negatives where flopped on the SNES. Compared to the Gamegear AC port. That's one way you can do it. I ran my SNES with just a bare wire for years. I eventually replaced it with a proper fuse.
Thanks for the vid, my Snea went yellow just being in the attic, I replaced the the fuse with a glass one, but now not working, starts up but hangs and you can see a slight image on the screen, but that’s all. Will look more into it after seeing this vid 👍
Nice fixes. If you don't want to retrobrite the 2nd console, just wait until summer and when there are a few really sunny days put it out into the open where it gets a lot of sun. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but I've been told it brightens it up. Of course you won't have perfect results, but it still should make it better.
Great job on the fixes! I would love to watch a video about you refurbishing the consoles. I'm always fascinated in different perspectives on retrobrighting.
Well done great work. I think the unpowered switch cycle is to discharge the DC power circuit electrolytic caps. To prevent the shorted pin issue upon removal of the cartridge. Maybe slackness in the cartridge holder can allow some to come up uneven and short pins.
I’ve just TRIED fixing my snes looked fine but I don’t really know what I’m doing, I cleaned up the board etc and it worked ……. Until 20 mins in playing donkey kong, now it’s back to bits with me scratching my head, I think I need to look at doing continuity tests, I’m not sure if I’m doing it right, on the 2nd one that you fixed mine looks the same on the metal game cartridge maybe that’s my problem Been waiting for this one, thanks Vince
Hi Vince, great video! Back in the day when the SNES was all the rage people would use adapters so they could play American or Japanese games and sometimes the converter would blow the internal fuse.
The yellowed plastic is apparently where the plastic has degraded over time, also it becomes very brittle, I've seen many retrobright videos on the subject and it seems to work well.
A good all around fix & nice to see some more retro consoles getting the vince treatment & bringing them back to life instead of ending up in landfill 👏👏👏
As for the mysterious yellowing inside, I can tell you that uv rays are not the only cause, cigarette smoke can cause it for example, and I will tell you more, in my cellar I have seen many items bought in perfect condition and yellowed by themselves being ALWAYS in the dark and away from the smoke, I came to the conclusion that even some type of mold can produce this effect.
I made a drunken purchase on eBay last year of a faulty Super Famicom for £12. Was thinking about doing a repair video on it, but it ended up that there was nothing wrong with it. It's still working now. How boring! :)
Couldn't wait to watch this. The SNES is my personal favourite console. But at the end, seeing one in such bad condition, broke my heart. I thought for a second, it may be the brother or sister to that PS5 Tronixfix tried to fix, that took a leap of faith down a stairwell. :)
Hey Vince, Really like your channel, just wanted to throw this out to you , when you run into stickey rubber try mixing up some baking soda and water , you want a good creamy paste almost like tooth paste , cover the intire area and let it set for at least 24 to 48 hours , i did this trick on a rechargeable beard trimmer , that was stored under a vanity light in the bath room , the light broke down the rubber some how , dont know the science behind it , but it worked , like brand new now
Hey Vince great video on the third SNES (SNSP-CPU-01) please also change C59 on the board they are tend to leak because it has to be a bipolar cap. Nintendo fix it with the second revision (SNSP-CPU-02) of the board. If you search for it you'll find enough examples where this cap was leaking.
Nice one Vince. Have been watching your vidoes for a long time. Always love watch your videos. I tried to fix an xbox one s. But the motherboard wasn't fixable.
I’ve repaired a number of SNES and that pico fuse has been the issue in maybe 60% of them. If not the fuse, it’s usually the card reader. Currently have two very rusty card readers soaking in vinegar. I’ve never tried that before. Figured they were garbage anyway so why not 😊
On the second one, you might have just blown the fuse by touching some component on the board without discharging the console, when trying to take out the cartridge. That was what happened to me with my console.
Hey Vince! Love your videos. Learn a lot and love to fix stuff myself. One thing you need to learn is to Clean things before you try to spot whats wrong with it ;). Thank you for all the videos! Best Regards /Daniel from Sweden
Bromide is added to the plastics, it makes them flame retardant, it reacts over time turning grey to yellow, the snes is a great console, fantastic video Vince
This is incorrect. Tetrabromobisphenol-A is added to plastics as a fire retardant, however, it does not react or discolour. It is the polymer itself that breaks down over time.
Very well spotted on the corroded track on the second SNES. REALLY well done on the third with the corroded tracks near the PPU pins. To solder wire links on or near a surface mount chip without using extra flux is very difficult to do without causing solder bridges. Also using the wrong tip on your iron, far too big for the job. You could get a job pushing camels through the eye of needles... it pays big BTW. (I do surface mount soldering as part of my job so this isn't idle praise.)
I like how real this is. Having no clue what could be wrong. He makes mistakes. He acknowledges them. And he shows us that he's human. I love it ❤❤
some common issues ive found when working on pal snes, the pico fuse (the little floating component) fails extremely often just from age but typically because of the 7805 voltage transformer failing also. the four rear most smd capacitors should always be replaced, they fail constantly but often leave the snes working in an intermittent state and eventually cause a black screen when they die, when they leak they can wreck the whole power circuit or often the audio. next cartridge ports have a tendency to condensate moisture and wick it down on to the board connector meaning the port can look clean but the board connector itself is corroded, its also good to check the boards underside for cracked solder joints on the connector. next step is the reset switch can often stick causing a reset loop that looks like a black screen, just desoldering it can be a good way to diagnose if its at fault. then finally the hardest to fix is cpu/ppu chip failure, although with flux and hot air they can be exchanged from donor boards the likelyhood is that even working chips will fail when exposed to even a fairly low temperature making it a challenging task.
The old game system repairs are definitely my favorite to watch! would love to see more!
I’m glad when you upload the “boring” fixes. They aren’t boring at all really and often can be the more common problems.
@18:26 These get yellowed because they contain a certain fireproofing agent, the name escapes me. Sunlight might accelerate the process, but they all turn yellow eventually.
@32:20 You should never start these with any of the rf shields missing, they play a huge part in the grounding, that's why the fuse went i'd bet.
Hey Vince. Great video. For the really Yellow ones, would you think it may be worth another try at the de-yellowing technique used by odd tinkering? He seems to have tremendous results and would strengthen the plastic on the most yellow. But even with retro bright they look great. You're definitely a legend. Videos are so open and honest and the work always insightful
I have a Snes which I put together with parts from a completely trashed console and some new case parts. The buttons were more yellow than black and front piece was as bad if not even worse than the yellow in this video and I got it a bit lighter than I wanted. however that was in the middle of the winter and no sun here then so instead of UV i just heated the Hydrogen peroxide and put the parts in it. The retrobright was done in less than 20 minutes and the result is flawless without any shift in color and are not going back to being yellow either
Fixes like these personally make for better viewing. I enjoy watching retro consoles repaired and saved from land fill
An hour went by very quick. I've enjoyed that. Thanks.
The silver SMD capacitors are known to leak and eat the traces away. I bought several high quality panasonic capacitors and replaced all capacitors on my own SNES before I got any damages.
I also replaced all capacitors on a friends SNES, there they already were leaking, I came just in time.
Also the reset button was not working on my SNES, some contact cleaner solved the problem.
The SNES outputs RGB, I bought a rad2x HDMI cable. It was my first console, I got it from my parents for chistmas and it still is in use today :) Respect how you found the problem of all consoles and brought them back to life! R-E-S-P-E-C-T!
Yellowing can occur due to high heat and humidity, as well. There are lots of competing theories (oxygenation, bromine, etc.) about *why* it happens, but simple aging is the case, and high temperature + moisture will accelerate aging. The corrosion was also likely caused by moisture, as well, and slowly dissolved the trace. Great channel, love the content. Cheers!
Had to rewatch this because unbelievably I have 2 with the exact same symptoms. (Down to the alternate yellowing patterns!) The no power one is the fuse. One thing I read when looking into replacements is that you should use the 125V ones not 250V for better protection. They are also available from RS £0.79 each for 5. Great video as usual and thanks to everyone for the comments with good advice on the cause of the fuse blowing. 🥰
I'm not sure if the voltage actually matters, it's basically the highest voltage the fuse can break safely without exploding. Since we're on 9 V here, either fuse is so far out of its design range I really can't imagine it would matter.
Some old plastics do go yellow over time, a trick I use is to put it in direct sunlight for a week or so.
Have many years experience with repair snes, nes and genesis consoles. Important for the next time, please make 2-3 power on/offs without ac adapter connected to unload the capacitors. Sometimes it could happen, that the rest of the capacity unload to ppu/ram and damages the parts. Nice video. Have fun! )
You have a good eye 👁️ I don't think I would've spot it👍
Thanks Paul, I was very lucky with these 3👍👍
Yo dude!, you have a great channel as well!
Great job vince. These videos give me great courage to do fixes on vintage electronics. I would not have this courage without you vince, keep up the great content !!
You got the fuse broken because the console keeps some power in the caps. Whenever you need to perform any repairs on an snes, after opening it, turn the console on so empty the capacitors and youll see the Power LED on for a second. When it goes off its safe to use the console. Not doing this can lead to blow the fuse. It happened to me too.
Vincent I cannot tell you how much I love your work. Thank you very much mate. All the best for you and your family for 2022 from Sydney.
Loved this one, it's great to see these getting back to working order.
The yellowing when its uniform like that will be because they used to put bromide in the plastic as a fire deterrent. When its uniform yellowing like that that’s just age.
The first one you fixed looked like someone had been in there before. There’s a lot of solder on the fuse pads
After a long day of working, your are the right guy to chill with. I like your videos so much. Thank you for that smooth kind of entertaining. Keep on going.
always change c59 on these consoles. they are part of the primary power supply system. they are of very poor quality, under great electrical stress and release liquid that corrodes the circuit underneath it and around it as you see in minute 52:26
Very nice video, calm, systematic, almost like watching a tv-show where you have to guess a bit but get to the great reveal at the end! I also learnt a thing or two, thanks a bunch mate!
I blew that fuse on my SNES because of static. I actually saw it happen. I was wearing football shorts while messing about with it which was a mistake. I actually saw a flash and a long thin spark hit the board. Still it was easy enough to sort.👍
I'm amazed at how easily they do blow. Watching back the video I didn't really manhandle the board. Unless it was static like yours...I was on a wool carpet???? Cheers Chris 👍
@@Mymatevince I have nintendo kiosks there fun the wii u kiosk is hard wired to the game pad as well. It also sends all power from the back of the unit to the gamepad.
Nice fixes as usual Vince, Exhaust heat was a special game for me, my dad bought it from Boots (the chemist) back when they sold games in the early 90s, the first SNES game and video game I ever got
I purchase my mega drive with sonic from boots.
brother thought it would be a good idea to sell it and open a bank account with promises of buying more SNES games.
I can't remember if he did buy more games, but I dinned out on the fact he sold it for years, once he was on the yts scheme earning 47 pound a week.
I think this definitely needs a retro brightening video vince! Get them back to how they should be and a “how to” at the same time! 👍🏻
Hi vince I really enjoyed this video good honest faults with really interesting fault finding from yourself and decent fixes.
I dont know much about electronics but love anything Nintendo and really enjoyed seeing how you fixed these faulty snes's. Great work!
This was satisfying to watch! I actually have a similar SNES console, albeit it being a Super Famicom from Japan I got at a convention. I love the nonUS case design very much. I'm glad you got all 3 of these working (aside from the borrowed fuse situation). Also congrats on approaching 800k subs relatively soon! I think I subbed when you had like 200k if not a bit less! You've come such a long way! You rock!
Nicely nicely. Love these retro repairs Vince. First by the way 😂
Got really lucky on these ones Phil. Congrats on first although I feel it is slightly cheating 🤣👍
@@Mymatevince nah pure skill mate 👌 and haha nah it isn't cheating if I pay for the privilege 🤣
@@TheCod3r 🤣💰🤑
@@TheCod3r pay to win😂
Rely good video, the longer the better.
Dont stress about time as we all enjoy watching the process
so glad there are some genuine people out there not everything on ebay is trash just most of it
Vince, I love how you can make fun of yourself and have the b***s to show that everyone can make mistakes. Been watching for years and you motivated me to get into repairs and as of late, start making my own videos. My mate vince, a true hero :)
I know you say "trying to fix" but you've gotten quite good at fixing as I've watched your videos overtime.
38:20 Congratulations Vince! 🎉🎉 I laughed so much through this part, perfect music too 🤣
Thank you Garth, one of my proudest moments. I actually got every single bit of the reassembly wrong...🤣🤣🤣
That's great, now if you would be so kind as to post this video to me back in 1995 I may have been able to fix mine back then. Great video. Love your work.
You were so lucky Vince! :)
All the ones I had with the black screen of death turned out to be dead CPUs which seems to be one of the most common faults.
I have probably commented it before, but I use solder as a temporary fuse when diagnosing things, just wrap it between the fuse holder sides. If there's a fault the solder melts very quickly :-)
A spent many hours as a kid playing killer instinct and street fighter still have all carts and controller just no console yet!! Love the videos vince
Nice repairs.
Small tip: For fixing the screw posts, as the plastic is ABS, make some ABS juice (slurry) or use straight acetone, it will melt the edges & make a really strong bond. I've never had much long term success with supa glue.
Alternatively, replace the case completely, there are new aftermarket cases available.
Hey Vince, rule of thumb is never to short out fuses. There's always a possibility to fry something downstream. Ask me how I know! Great video anyways as always. Cheers!
I feel you had a nicely fried chip once upon a time 🤣 Cheers M Marv 👍👍
Hey Vince, I remember reading an article a while ago now about the yellowing, it was something like -
The discolouration is due to a flame retardant additive being added to the plastic and different parts would be made with different mixtures of the additive in batches, which would possibly explain the colour difference in different parts of the system
I can’t believe how lucky you got with these 3! Nice repairs!
Really liked the longer video to be honest gets everything fixed and gives a surprise to next video instead of knowing there are another two very similar videos on the way great work keep it up
Hi Vince. Please put the SNES branding plate of the second SNES onto the first SNES you fixed. So it matches at least.
I would like to see you retrobright the consoles and your SNES controller.
Nice work as usual.
SNES? Yeah!!
Killer Instinct? Yeahhhhh!
Your 2nd fix will be very helpful for me, my SNES sometimes work and sometimes it doesn't: only display BSOD.
Wasn't aware that you can remove the slot itself, but will have a look this weekend if it might be a broken trace too (or a faulty slot).
Thanks Vince 🤝
Great job Vince!!! You really lucked out with those SNES (having genuine faults)! So many have bad CPU or PPU1/2 these days, and have been worked on before =/ BTW - heating those customs, they can often die with little heat! I am relieved you didn't need to swap any of them around! This is also one of the reasons I've not bothered with trying to fix many SNES myself!
I was doing one before Christmas, finally got it going and THEn realised half the video had cut off, so had to scrap it , was annoyed as had repaired some corroded traces, annoying :(
Yeah, the snes I’ve had since childhood recently just developed a bad ppu within the last couple of years, really unfortunate, I thought it was the capacitors at first but no dice.
Very lucky on all 3. Really unusual to find something like that job lot on eBay. All untouched and perfect little fixes... I loved working on them.
Thanks Chris 😎
@@1up_Gaming Woah...Mike has been a busy bee on the videos....Well done!!!!
This is good timing. I received my SNES from eBay today that I bid on a few days ago.
2 controllers, 2 top games, an original power supply, and a 1 chip SNES (the best graphically) all for £60
The SNES fuse can blow up if you take out a cart while is on, maybe that happened with the second one when you put the second game.
Very nice work. Considering how so many Super Fami/Ninty consoles are going out, it's so nice to see some rescued from becoming e-waste.
4 years with ipa and your hands give up now :) pleas try the green working hands, hand cream, it works wonders!
Brilliant video! Thank you
Yeah, I think they are not getting the chance to heal properly, and also maybe all the hand sanitising isn't helping when out and about 👍👍
Maybe use schematics from the start when available so you can actually learn where everything goes and what the components are instead of guessing. Every repair will give you a serious amount of knowledge + save time.
I'm glad you swapped the plastics over as I was thinking the same thing! I recall the severe yellowing was to do with the fire retardant chemicals added into the plastic during manufacture. I have first-generation machine (purchased on release) and no yellowing whatsoever! :)
Nice one vince! £50 job lot pretty impressive! u will make a good profit on these if u sell them ! :) the SNES still my fav
3 out of 3, all simple fixes but still needed identifying, great work!
Great video!👍😁 I love working on super Nintendo Consoles, so much fun to be had with great results .
Hi Vince, I've thoroughly enjoyed your channel content and watching you grow in regards to your abilities to repair many things. Very well done my friend. Kind regards. Paul.
Thank you Paul👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince your welcome Vince. Keep up the great work. 👍
Vince you’re a better man than me 👍 congrats on fixing those SNES’s.
Great fixes for all 3, I've been looking forward to you doing a fix video on snes consoles as the faults with these are very common..
Thanks Danny, I loved all 3 of these, just single faults that knock out the whole unit. Hope you are keeping well mate 👍👍
Such a great video! I was having issues with not getting any power to my snes and yeah for me it has to be my port. Thank you for showing me how to check for dc/ac!
Hey Vince, an alternative to that specialist solder mask is UV hardened nail polish like they use at salons. Not sure which is cheaper where you are, but nail polish is cheap as chips in the US.
It's solute is acetone or mineral spirits so IPA shouldn't attack it. Otherwise ladies' manicures would melt when they put on hand sanitizer.
Great to see 3 SNES brought back to life. Nice work Vince
Vince, if you're going to "retr0brite" the yellow SNES, be sure to either paint the plastic in the creamy peroxide and cover it with the plastic wrap. Or you can submerge it in water, adding liquid peroxide.
Great work thanks for bringing these back from the dead. the best console from my childhood
I blew out my SNES fuse because I went and used a 3rd party ac adapter that had a changable tip. And the positive and negatives where flopped on the SNES. Compared to the Gamegear AC port. That's one way you can do it. I ran my SNES with just a bare wire for years. I eventually replaced it with a proper fuse.
Thanks for the vid, my Snea went yellow just being in the attic, I replaced the the fuse with a glass one, but now not working, starts up but hangs and you can see a slight image on the screen, but that’s all. Will look more into it after seeing this vid 👍
Nice fixes. If you don't want to retrobrite the 2nd console, just wait until summer and when there are a few really sunny days put it out into the open where it gets a lot of sun. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but I've been told it brightens it up. Of course you won't have perfect results, but it still should make it better.
Great job on the fixes! I would love to watch a video about you refurbishing the consoles. I'm always fascinated in different perspectives on retrobrighting.
3 for 3, is that a hat trick Vince? Really enjoyed this video. Love all your posts honestly. Cheers from Baltimore, Maryland USA!!!!
Well done great work. I think the unpowered switch cycle is to discharge the DC power circuit electrolytic caps. To prevent the shorted pin issue upon removal of the cartridge. Maybe slackness in the cartridge holder can allow some to come up uneven and short pins.
Got a good chuckle at the "spot the mistakes" bit, congrats on the world record 😄
30:52 I think the board lifts and comes in contact with the leads on the power switch, causing the short when you pulled up on the game.
I’ve just TRIED fixing my snes looked fine but I don’t really know what I’m doing, I cleaned up the board etc and it worked ……. Until 20 mins in playing donkey kong, now it’s back to bits with me scratching my head, I think I need to look at doing continuity tests, I’m not sure if I’m doing it right, on the 2nd one that you fixed mine looks the same on the metal game cartridge maybe that’s my problem
Been waiting for this one, thanks Vince
Hi Vince, great video! Back in the day when the SNES was all the rage people would use adapters so they could play American or Japanese games and sometimes the converter would blow the internal fuse.
You're getting very experienced. What looks to you as a simple problem would have fooled many repairmen.
The yellowed plastic is apparently where the plastic has degraded over time, also it becomes very brittle, I've seen many retrobright videos on the subject and it seems to work well.
Great fix Vince. I keep meaning to buy a snes myself. 1 of the only consoles I never bought.
A good all around fix & nice to see some more retro consoles getting the vince treatment & bringing them back to life instead of ending up in landfill 👏👏👏
Just recently came across your channel, awesome content , love the channel mate. Did enjoy the B&O fixes very entertaining.
3 SNES's saved :)
Love this system so much, and so much great memories on it.
As for the mysterious yellowing inside, I can tell you that uv rays are not the only cause, cigarette smoke can cause it for example, and I will tell you more, in my cellar I have seen many items bought in perfect condition and yellowed by themselves being ALWAYS in the dark and away from the smoke, I came to the conclusion that even some type of mold can produce this effect.
Most likely bromine in the plastic
I made a drunken purchase on eBay last year of a faulty Super Famicom for £12. Was thinking about doing a repair video on it, but it ended up that there was nothing wrong with it. It's still working now. How boring! :)
Couldn't wait to watch this. The SNES is my personal favourite console. But at the end, seeing one in such bad condition, broke my heart. I thought for a second, it may be the brother or sister to that PS5 Tronixfix tried to fix, that took a leap of faith down a stairwell. :)
Hey Vince, Really like your channel, just wanted to throw this out to you , when you run into stickey rubber try mixing up some baking soda and water , you want a good creamy paste almost like tooth paste , cover the intire area and let it set for at least 24 to 48 hours , i did this trick on a rechargeable beard trimmer , that was stored under a vanity light in the bath room , the light broke down the rubber some how , dont know the science behind it , but it worked , like brand new now
3 out of 3. Amazing, Vince 👍
Hey Vince great video on the third SNES (SNSP-CPU-01) please also change C59 on the board they are tend to leak because it has to be a bipolar cap.
Nintendo fix it with the second revision (SNSP-CPU-02) of the board.
If you search for it you'll find enough examples where this cap was leaking.
You need to use a brush and a wooden stick so you don't score the copper traces.
You should consider retrobriting them to get the original colour back.
great job. I guess older tech has something going for it
Nice one Vince. Have been watching your vidoes for a long time. Always love watch your videos. I tried to fix an xbox one s. But the motherboard wasn't fixable.
Didn't know a game cube av lead fits!! That's good to know
AV Fami, SNES, N64, GC all use the same AV port.
I’ve repaired a number of SNES and that pico fuse has been the issue in maybe 60% of them. If not the fuse, it’s usually the card reader. Currently have two very rusty card readers soaking in vinegar. I’ve never tried that before. Figured they were garbage anyway so why not 😊
On the second one, you might have just blown the fuse by touching some component on the board without discharging the console, when trying to take out the cartridge. That was what happened to me with my console.
I miss your Long Play videos. Great fixes on these!
Hey Vince! Love your videos. Learn a lot and love to fix stuff myself. One thing you need to learn is to Clean things before you try to spot whats wrong with it ;). Thank you for all the videos! Best Regards /Daniel from Sweden
Just best console ever, the snes. Nice easy fixes Vince. Looking for a SNES for a while now. Maybe i ll try my luck as well ;)
pretty cool to see all three SNES working in the end :)
Been watching for quite a while now think ur content is good like all ur different things u fix amazing
Nice one Vince. 👏With things the way they are with computer graphics cards, any chance of trying one of those so we can see the diagnostic process?
Bromide is added to the plastics, it makes them flame retardant, it reacts over time turning grey to yellow, the snes is a great console, fantastic video Vince
This is incorrect. Tetrabromobisphenol-A is added to plastics as a fire retardant, however, it does not react or discolour. It is the polymer itself that breaks down over time.
Very well spotted on the corroded track on the second SNES. REALLY well done on the third with the corroded tracks near the PPU pins. To solder wire links on or near a surface mount chip without using extra flux is very difficult to do without causing solder bridges. Also using the wrong tip on your iron, far too big for the job. You could get a job pushing camels through the eye of needles... it pays big BTW. (I do surface mount soldering as part of my job so this isn't idle praise.)