Froth-Pak 200 Spray Foam Sealant Kit Set-Up, Precautions, and Spraying Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- DIY Spray Foam has never been so easy with the Froth-Pak spray foam insulation sealant kit. Learn how to apply spray foam insulation like a pro! Froth-Pak sells the 200 , which is a 200 board feet size spray foam insulation sealant kit and larger size kits, such as the Froth-Pak 640, which can provide a 2" thick insulation on about 40 lineal feet of wall that is 8 feet high, or 320 square feet of wall surface. The Froth-Pak 200 covered 72 square feet with a thickness of 2 inches to 2-1/2 inches.
You'll need to purchase a Froth-Pak 200 Spray Foam sealant kit from Lowe's for $409+ tax or Amazon $$$? Other items you will need is a Everbilt hooded coverall for $15, a pair of latex or Nitrile gloves, and a 3M respirator and a pair of safety glasses, or if you want better protection, you can buy a 3M respirator with a built in face shield like in the video for $197 with tax from a Sherwin-Williams commercial paint center.
The Froth-Pak 200 sealant kit comes with 4 fan tips for spraying between the studs, or joists, and 6 smaller tips for getting into smaller areas.
The Froth-Pak sealant kit is a closed cell spray foam insulation. Froth Pak calls it a sealant kit because of the size of the package, not because it's any different than regular closed cell spray foam. The chemical process creates heat, and you will want to keep the heat down, so do not spray more than 2 inches of closed cell spray foam at a time, otherwise combustion can occur. I used a Klein temperature gun to check the temperatures after each coat, and had a fire extinguisher close by. If you are planning on putting drywall on the walls, you will not want to spray more than will expand past the edge of the stud. Shaving the closed cell spray foam is extremely difficult. One small wine cellar, 7'x10' room took me 2 days to shave the walls flat, so please don't make that mistake. You might consider using duct tape to cover the edges of the studs, and plates, so you can just peel off the tape. Cover all your flooring and furniture too! Generally speaking, closed cell spray foam has 2X the R-value as open cell foam. Check with your energy codes in your geographic location, and check with a local spray foam professional to make sure you are using the Froth-Pak insulation kit in the right area, so you don't have moisture building up in your wall by accident.
You will need to set-up the project, and your job site, with cross ventilation and know that these chemicals can crystalize in your lungs, so you will not want to be in the area without a respirator, and allow the job site to ventilate for 4 hours or longer after you have completed spraying. Keep yourself, the customers, and the pets out of the area, if not wearing protective equipment.
Froth-Pak 200 amzn.to/3UgXPaN #Ad $455 online
or go to Lowe's $409 + tax as of October 2022
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or about $15 at Lowe's
3M Full face Respirator amzn.to/3FzWRlR #Ad
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If you are thinking that you will save money, time, learning or frustration by just using 20 cans of spray foam per stud bay, I can tell you, that doesn't work. The spray foam from the Great Stuff or Hilti spray foam cans will not stay up/ attached in the stud cavities. Those are designed for smaller beads and small holes. Been there, tried that, and what a mess!
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⏰⏰TIMECODES ⏰⏰
0:00 Safety equipment, tools, and supplies
1:12 Coverage of the Froth-Pak 200
07:09 Unboxing the Froth-Pak 200
11:43 Start Spraying foam insulation
15:38 Spray 2nd coat of spray foam
19:48 Sing-along: I'm up all night to spray foam!
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Good job thank you for sharing this video. It has been a great help.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to shoot and post it.
As a Lowe's employee thank you for this video. I recommend it to every customer that I have that asks about the frothpak. And in Montana right now it is 399.00 a box.
I went and purchased 2 boxes of the Froth Pak recently (August 2022) and the price is now $409 +tax in Fort Worth, Texas area. I’m making a video on my new 114 sq. ft. shed, and I’ll be installing Froth Pak in there too. I like helping people figure out how much everything cost in materials and labor hours, so maybe they can either know what the materials will cost, labor to see if it’s worth Doing It Yourself, and if they’re a contractor they can estimate how much labor time things to plan on at a minimum for an estimate.
@@craftsmanconnection I understand. So many people of wealth have moved to this state that contractors are charging sky high prices. So I hype up people every day that they can do this themselves at a major reduced cost in this area.
That is all part of the my video making plan, empowering others to be able to do it for themselves, and/or to learn how to do it, and know what to do (procedures, and codes), and how long it takes, to be able to correctly charge for their time, to help others get work done at their house, and provide a much better living beyond let’s say a fast food employee living. In the beginning, It takes a little bit of courage to be willing to buy some tools, so you can be able to offer a service. Some people are willing to invest in themselves, and work hard to get somewhere further in life.
@@craftsmanconnection keep doing what you're doing brother. I'll keep sending folks your way lol
A tip for the rounded bottom kit is to set them back in the box after mixing. They wont tip over and you can simply slide them along the floor with you. great video!
Yes, normally I think would have left the metal containers in the box, but from a viewers standpoint, I figured they would want to see what exactly is in the box, and from a marketing standpoint have the front of the box facing the camera.Now we know the containers have around bottom, and it would be easier to keep them in the box. I’m sure the thick, soft old carpet I had on my floor didn’t help the situation, but it made a great drop cloth.
For my upcoming shed video, I purchased 2 boxes of Froth Pak. I might have to mention something about leaving the containers in the box after shaking/mixing the containers.
I'm just glad I stuck around for you to sign at the end XD
Captain Garry, you must be referring to the singing. XD?
Nice spraying !
What project are you working on that you want to do spray foam?
Yes, the singing sold me.
I loved it when you started singing!!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. When I find some music that sounds like some other song lyrics we probably all know, I switch up the words to fit the topic. In another upcoming shower tile video, I rewrote the lyrics for a well known song by Alabama, called I’m in a hurry to get things done (rush and rush until life’s no fun).
In another video about a Shed Foundation, I impersonate a helper, who just some happens to look a little bit like me, and has a similar name. Some people have said you should clone yourself. Good help is hard to find. If you’re not having some fun making videos to help and entertain people, why bother.
@@craftsmanconnection it was a symbol of your confidence. I’ve done a few TH-cam videos but I would never think about singing…
You’ve done 30 videos, and got 2.12 subscribers so far. That’s only 2,120 people waiting to see another video from you. If you’re still on your Keto journey, have you done an update video? “Keto,…Is it worth it?” From 300lb to 200lbs from a former Army physical fitness trainer.
Thank you so much that was very informative and very very helpful I was considering having a 16 by 36 building sprayed so it's very helpful in my decision making thank you
What part(s) were the most helpful? I’m planning on making another Froth Pak video for my tool shed to simulate a whole room, and have more information on the product, that people have asked in the comments.
@@craftsmanconnection The directions say to purge the hose every 20 seconds? How do you purge the lines?
@RossMalagarie you purge the lines by essentially spraying the product. The reason why they tell you to do this is so the foam doesn’t harden in the gun nozzle part. The individual hoses with the part A and part B product will not harden and until they are mixed in the gun nozzle.
@@craftsmanconnection thanks I am looking to try this product out under my house because my house is on 4 cinder blocks on a slab so I'll will spray about 1" in between the 2x10 floor joists. My living square footage is 480sqft so one 620 kit should do 1" on all the floors. I will add another 620 kit every year until it fills the 2x10. That should really help my heating and cooling bill.
What year is the house? What part of the world are you in? Climate Zone? Curious about how much heat or cold you experience during the year. According to my spray foam contractor in Texas, a couple inches is enough, and as you go thicker, there is a diminishing return on investment. You’ll be better off focusing your time and money air sealing. This means doing a blower door test, and doing things like hiring a spray foam contractor to install open cell foam (not Froth Pak which is closed cell), to help cool the attic, and the duct work that is up there. Step 2: new duct work, because old duct work, like in my 1965 house, was done with sheet metal ducts that didn’t have duct sealant and better insulation, to help reduce air leakage, and reduce the energy loss, therefore reducing your energy bill. Step 3: make sure doors and windows are as air tight as reasonable possible. Step 4: Seal any holes hidden around outlets, and between the floor and wall framing. Some of this is hard to do in a finished house, because it means removing base boards and door trim work. Look into a FLIR imaging camera attachment for about $300 and can attach to an iPhone or Android.
19:57 Just have to leave a comment for the gold that starts here. Too many fumes and not enough sleep? Love it.
For the win: up all night to spray foam! Best song evar!
I thought it was a pretty funny play on words, similar to that other song “Up all night to get lucky”
OMG the singing at the end is the best!!
Question who is your guy to do spray foam for $1500? Are you in Middle Tennessee perhaps?
I’m in the Fort Worth, Texas area. Have you tried calling somebody in your area?
@@craftsmanconnection Oh. no shit?! I use to live in Keller, TX.
I did, I have a 12x24 shed I need to be up all night to spray foam in. This guy said 3k. Seemed too high!
Are you talking straight to a spray foam contractor? I just answered another question for a guy, about his 22x32 garage = about 788 square feet of walls after removing doors. That cost was around $1,500. I understand some material prices have gone up, but $3,000 seems to high, unless you are talking to a general contractor.
You have 588 square feet of wall plus whatever the ceiling area looks like (flat or vaulted), minus the door(s).
Love the singing
Good video. The last minute was scary. Not the video, the audio!!!! LOL
I’m up all night to spray foam!!! 😅
Nice explanation. I have a 12x16 vaulted screen porch roof ( 4/12 pitch out of 2x6 ) I'm thinking this would be good, as I don't want to vent it or fur out for regular insulation. Do you think this would be good to do a couple of inches and then cover with some beadboard or something? Is it OK to have air gap between the 2" of foam and the sheathing I use inside the room?
Hi PCDubya, I have done basically the same thing to my sunroom patio. I did spray foam on the underside of the flat roof, and then I am covering it up with a wood grain textured 4’x8’ plywood.
The closed cell foam acts as a vapor Closed cell foam will work just fine for your vaulted roofline. I hired my Spray Foam Contractor friend to do Open Cell foam on my flat roof ceiling because they are more notorious for leaking sooner than later.
On the bead board side of your question, as a carpenter, If you are buying 16 foot long lengths of 1x6, or 3/4” x 3-1/2” pine bead board planks, you’ll want to store them inside your air conditioned house for 3 weeks or more so that way the board will shrink a tiny bit as the humidity leaves the wood. Then when you go to install it and 3 weeks later you don’t end up with that 1/16” to 1/4” gap between each board which will not look even between all boards. If you are using a KD or Kiln Dried wood product, just acclimate it to the room for a minimum of 3 days. If you are using a plywood bead board product, you will not have any need to acclimate the product.
@@craftsmanconnection Cool, thanks for the reply. I can handle the wood part, just curious about that spray kit like you used. I think that's the ticket. Appreciate it!
Late but just do 2 inches of spray foam then fill the rest of the cavity with fiberglass great hybrid method
I live south of Houston and at local Home Depot they carry an Owens Corning FOAMULAR 150 in 1” or2”. A single 2” x 4’x8’ sheet with an R-10 value costs $40. For a job link this it would be hard to beat the foam ford for ease of installation and 1/2 the cost.
Vernon, the downside is that you don’t air sealing. What money you save in spray foam insulation cost, you’ll easily waste in energy cost. Google search the word fenestration (air movement). Search code requirements for Air Changes per Hour or ACH. Search Blower Door testing.
What you don’t see yet with the foam board is What do you do with a stud cavity with more complicated plumbing pipes, wiring, and other electrical obstacles. Not everything is a perfectly spaced stud cavity. That only exists on a paper plan. Foam board nsulation only works if you can stop the air movement around the edges, and penetrations.
Spray foam gets sprayed against the framing and exterior wall from the inside creating an air seal. Spray foam can handle sealing around pipes, wires, and every other obstacle easily. Froth Pak is a closed cell spray foam which is similar to a foam cooler material.
Open cell spray foam allows for vapor (moisture) permeability. If your roof is leaking, you will want to know, than have the framing rot out first. Use open cell for insulation between roof rafters.
If you’re looking for cheaper materials, the trade off will be air sealing and cost you forever in energy cost.
Great video! You have done that before. No one sprays like that on their first try.
That was my first time spraying with spray foam, but not my first time spraying with canned paint, painting cabinets, so I do have some talent for spraying some products.
@@craftsmanconnection def not a bad spray since that product is more for sealing rim joist and such like connectors and other joints .. the 210 is the "spray insulation" try that next time if you havnt ..
@Savannahjbo Froth Pak 200 is the spray foam insulation and Sealant (greenish blue box). The Froth Pak 210 is the Class A Fire retardant insulation (red box). Both are insulation, unfortunately Froth Pak packaging isn’t labeled correctly, so many people are confused, but if you go to the website for Froth Pak, it says spray foam insulation and sealant for Froth Pak 200.
Great video. Do I still need to put a vapour barrier after spray foaming the walls? I live in a cold climate where the winters reach -35.
Thanks
Hi Shawn,
😂😅 -35F degrees???! Wow!!! Yes, you need a vapor barrier, I’d say. Keep in mind, all of the components and hidden components of your wall assembly. You don’t need a vapor barrier for the Froth Pak Insulation itself, but the wood studs can transfer vapor / moisture through the wood itself, the holes cut into the wood, and the gaps between 2 studs next to each other. You can also help moisture sealing by caulking the mud sill or bottom wall plate to the subfloor or concrete slab. Have you ever heard of a blower door test? Did you know Flir makes an infrared camera attachment for iPhone, etc. for around $300? You can see cold air and moisture with this device.
You only need a vapor barrier if it's open cell foam and sprayed on less than 2 inches thick at your temp I wouldnt go less than 3 inches thick. Closed cell foam doesn't have any means to allow water vapor to pass through it so no vapor barrier is needed.
Not sure if your mask was sealing correctly. Singing at the end of your video? Did the chemicals get to you?
Application in the proper temperature range is necessary for proper curing of the foam and to prevent unintended smells from improperly cured foam. Don't do it in an attic on a hot sunny day. Try applying the foam at night or on cloudy/rainy days during warmer months.
It’s a good thing I applied it at night time. Did you hear my song “Up all night to spray foam”?
@@craftsmanconnection LOL
The surface it's sprayed onto is not as critical as the temp of the foam its self
You should have used the Froth-Pak 210 for this project. DuPont made that version for exactly for this use case. The 200 version is intended for sealing lots of small voids on larger projects.
Do you know the difference between the Froth Pak 210 and the Froth Pak 200? Froth Pak 210 (Red Box) is a fire rated spray foam insulation. Froth Pak 200 (green box) is not a fire rated product. Don’t look merely at the packaging for the answers. Look at the DuPont website which has more room for the product info.
Do you know when you need fire rated spray foam vs. when you don’t? Have you heard of intumescent paint? When you have an exposed foam situation, you’re supposed to used a fire rated spray foam, or a spray foam coated with intumescent paint.
The 200 vs 210: These numbers are the yield of the product in board feet. So technically one might give you 10 more board feet of product (5%), but in the real world job site application, will it actually be noticeable? Is that 5% more or less qualify it to be called sealant or insulation? Both products are closed cell foam, so technically, both are insulation. See the product in person. Feel it. Use a infrared temperature gun, aka FLIR imaging. Don’t fall for bad product labeling and some game with words.
I wish DuPont did a better job at product labeling, but I have no control over their product marketing team.
The fire rating is the difference, yes. A lot of states require fire rating for foam used in insulating applications. Could you use the 200 product? Absolutely. Will it pass inspection? Depends on the application, your state, and the inspector.
I think it's important for people to be told the distinction when looking at these products. Foam is a major pain to remove if an inspector sees it used improperly.
@@craftsmanconnection
@bbbbb1887 In Texas, a fire rating is required in exposed applications, but not required behind a fire rated material like drywall. 1/2” drywall has a 1/2 hour fire rating. 5/8” drywall has a 1 hour fire rating, and a double layer of 5/8” Type X drywall has a 2 hour fire rating.
Fire rating requirements depends on the occupancy such as single family residential, multi-family residential, schools, theaters, and other public assemblies, and so on. I was a ICBO and ICC certified building inspector.
Did our two car garage in Connecticut about 10 years ago. spendy but it sure made it warmer in the winter. One question, why ya spray with your hood DOWN?!?!?! Hope you didn't get to much overspray in your hair. ;
I had my hood down for a couple reasons. 1. I wasn’t spraying the spray foam product over my head, and 2. I was filming the video, so better to not look like I’m in full hazmat gear. I don’t get any product on me, but I know what you’re saying with how sticking it can be. I have had spray foam on my hands before.
I thought that the froth pak 200 was a closed cell and only used for crawl spaces Etc,So its ok for wall insulation? How about attic roof insulation?
Hi Justin, Froth-Pak is a closed cell spray foam. I called my spray foam contractor again to confirm that it is ok to use closed cell spray foam in exterior walls, roofs, crawl spaces, etc., and he said yes it is OK. There is only 1 issue that one could have is up against a roof line. The issue is, if the roof leaks you will most likely not know about it and the roof sheathing could rot out due to a damaged or not properly installed roof. Other than that, you can use closed cell foam anywhere. The cost is higher for closed cell, but you also get about twice the R-Value, and get the added bonus of an air barrier. The TH-cam Channel Matt Risinger or The Build Show (same guy) talks heavily about the importance of air barriers, air sealing between framing, and quality contractor work around this topic.
Don't forget the "Sealant kit" is not the same as the "insulation kit" and you will need an additional fire barrier over the top of the foam he is spraying per building codes in your area
This Sealant Kit is Spray Foam Insulation. Not in all cases do you need a thermal/fire barrier “intumescent” paint coating. In this video the spray foam sealant kit is being used in a way that will be covered up with a sheet of drywall which has a 30’minute fire rating. 5/8” Type X sheetrock has a 1 hour fire rating, and 2 layers of 5/8” Type X sheetrock has a 2 hour fire rating. Only in some exposed situations may a fire barrier paint product be required to be applied. I’m a former building inspector. Feel free to do some more research.
Is it ok to apply spray foam insulation when the attic is 110 degrees? Will it fully cure? Or will it off gas forever?
The spray foam will fully cure. Froth Pak , closed cell foam, will expand fairly quickly with about a minute, and cure within hours. Open cell foam expands within just a few seconds, like 2 sec-5 sec. You’ll want to spray a small area, like 2-4 square feet first, and test the foam to make sure it’s mixing evenly. If it’s getting too much of one chemical it’ll be very flaky, and if too much of the other, it’ll be drippy. I didn’t have any issues with the froth pak. Just follow the instructions to make sure your spray nozzle doesn’t sit around for more than 30 seconds unused, otherwise you’ll need to change the spray nozzle for a new one. So get your area all prepared and then start spraying.
Is there not a gap between your window header boards that should be filled ?
How about the open wall It's ?
It’s been over a year since filming, but there was probably a gap between the window header and the window frame. The Froth Pak 200 was used to fill the wall cavities, and I later used door and window foam in a spray foam gun for the window area, and any other tiny gaps. Different types of foam apply different amount of expansion pressure, or expansion amounts.
Closed cell foam doesn’t expand as much as open cell foam. Great Stuff Big Gap Filler expands more than their door and window foam, and so on. I have some experience with the various products, but not an expert on spray foam.
This home has the old stile framing. the left corner needs to be filled as well, or you will still have a draft corner.
Later on, I used a small spray foam gun to inject foam into the corner. More controlled approach for such a small gap to spray into.
Great Video, what is difference of the green box and the red box Froth-Pak ?
The red box is closed cell foam with a Class A fire rating. The green box is regular closed cell foam. Both are spray foam insulation. The boxes are not labeled well, but the DOW.com website has them both listed as spray foam and sealant kit.
Awesome. Thanks @@craftsmanconnection
Okay... so years ago when my fiberglass tub was installed, it sat on a few blocks of something like styrofoam... and over these years, I can tell that the tub is not supported as it should be as if those styrofoam blocks have shrunken or have collapsed altogether. Might it be possible to use this closed cell insulation and spary it under my tub from the basement underneath? I'm looking for more support in the tub, as it is now time to use a shower stool or chair and I'm worried that the tub will crack, like it did in my sister's house.
A couple of things:
1. I’m not sure what your access to the underside of the tub is like, but I would be concerned about getting or making sure you created the support you’re hoping for. Since the froth-Pak foam cures in 30 seconds or less, it’s not like it would run over like a cream into hidden spots you couldn’t get to. There is a foam called PIP foam which stands for pour in place, but you would need access from above the bottom of the tub. Since the only person I know to get it from is a spray foam contractor, I might be more interested in using a self leveling cement product, which would be a harder surface and way cheaper for you to buy.
The second thing is, some foams can expand with pressure, so that might lift your tub upward. Door and window foam does not have this kind of expansion pressure, which makes it great for not distorting the jamb or frame of those items.
@@craftsmanconnection Thank you sooooo much for your input. I thought Great Stuff might work, but I've had hit or miss luck with that stuff. I was hoping to find a similar product that would apply/work better. I'll check into the PIP stuff... but I was looking for closed cell because it deflects rather than absorbs water.
Hopefully you don’t have any water under your tub anyways, but if you do ever have water, a cement based product will dry out faster that a spongy foam (open cell) product would.
Most manufacturers either use a dense closed cell foam or plastic tabs to touch the subfloor, but if you read some tub install directions, they talk about using a cement product like self leveling mortar or a mortar base layer to set the tub into and help make it level.
@@craftsmanconnection ... Thanks AGAIN for getting back to me. I have an access hole in the basement for the tub drain clean out... my only access to get a nozel/hose up in there to spray some foam. Just looking for the best product to use... and you've pointed me in the right direction.
Would love to know if I get this in Jamaica?
I have no idea if you can get the Froth Pak in Jamaica. You’ll have to look online to see if it can be shipped to you or if you can purchase locally.
I was gonna try to spray under my house between the floor joist any suggestions
Other than the recommended safety equipment, like the respirator, a spray foam contractor might set up some way of cross ventilating the crawl space diagonally to help bring in fresh air, and help fumes from building up. You’re also trying to keep the fumes out of the house, if possible.
Don’t spray on more than what it recommended, check temperatures occasionally until you at least know you are not doing too much at a time. Take a fire extinguisher with you, just in case. You’ll need a light, and most importantly turn off any sources of open flames like a pilot light to a water heater or central air and heat system, fireplace, etc.
Make sure you are allowing the containers to warm up to about 70 degrees, even if that means storing them inside the night before or a couple days before. That is what I did since I was spraying at a time of year that was colder than 70 degrees outside in January.
The Froth Pak sprays well. Don’t forget to mix the containers well by rocking them vigorously back and forth for about 5 minutes. I did that and everything went well according to the manufacturer. Good luck with your project. How many square feet do you have to do under the house?
I didnt see you demonstrate putting the gell around the gun opening. Should you start off by spraying without the fan tip on the gun to get the proper consistency first then put the fan tip on?
Clear grease applied, just not all that interesting or need for further explanation of someone reads the instructions.
I sprayed the foam components (Part A & Part B with the nozzle on, as I didn’t want to get those chemicals accidentally mixing and touching the gun before I got a tip on. With the color of the two parts, you can initially see in the clear hose if they are flowing, and see in the nozzle tip that they are mixing.
When’s the single drop? 😂
Hi, I'd really like to use a foam kit here in Bogotá Colombia but they're not sold here, I telephoned the airline fright department in Miami and they said no no. No chemicals under pressure. The two components are sold here and are used on the big pro machines. I have an idea but I need a little information; I could import just the Gun, nozzles and houses and hook them up to two fumigation containers that can be pumped up for pressure fumigation. Do you think this would work? Where could I buy just the Gun with the nozzles and house? Thank you.
I have no idea where you could buy the plastic nozzle and tips independent of the chemicals. Also, I have no idea about your idea of the fumigation containers, unless you’re saying they are empty. Sounds like you’re asking about using something meant for spray foam, but using it for fumigation. Fumigation is not something I have done.
I'm not understanding what gets hot. Is it the two chemicals mixing together that causes heat amd do you have to let it cool before adding another coat
The chemical reaction for the foam gets hot. This was a warning from my spray foam contractor. I did notice some heat when I tested it, but didn't see any evidence or smells that indicated anything to worry about. Just passing along the safety info from the professional spray foam contractor.
Thank you. This is helpful. Question: if I have a 6000 square foot house I need to apply close cell foam to, I calculate 536.4 linear feet (3 floors at 2000 sq ft / floor) or a total perimeter of 536.4 feet. With 8 foot walls that is 4,291 sq feet of closed foam insulation. Assuming 2.5" thickness, that is 10,728 board feet of insulation. @ $2 / board foot, insulation should cost $21,456 installed. Does that sound correct?
You would calculate the lineal footage of exterior wall X the height of 8 feet. 536.4 lineal feet X 8 feet high is 4,291.2 sq. feet, so at 2.5” thickness, that is 10,728 board feet, correct. You’re estimating is correct at $2/ board foot.
Once you get above $1200-$1500, it’s cheaper to higher a spray foam contractor to do the work with materials and labor. Froth Pak sells the 200 board foot kit for $409, currently, and the 620 kit for $1,025, which will bring the cost down some if you are still thinking you would do it yourself at $1.65 per board foot, assuming you got a full 620 board feet out of a kit, which you most likely won’t. 18 kits of 620 is $18,450 plus tax and shipping (if any).
@@craftsmanconnection Thanks. This is really helpful.
Hire a pro for that big a job.
Violet, you mean hire a pro for that 6000 Sq. ft. House? Yes, of course. It’ll be way cheaper and faster to hire a pro for a large job. Anything over about 225-300 square feet of wall surface, you’d be better off hiring a pro.
@@craftsmanconnection correct.
Your DIY video is detailed and helpful. Nicely done!
I’m gunna hire a pro to do the walls in my standard two car garage. Spray foam insulation is more expensive but so worth it. Especially for noise reduction. I understand Batt insulation is much cheaper, but it’s also an inferior product.
Can I use this product from under the house to do floors from crawlspace??
Yes, you can use this product in a short crawl space dimension. Crawl spaces are supposed to have a minimum height of 18” to the bottom of the floor joist, and 24” to the bottom side of the wood subfloor. Working in such confined area, It would help if you had some easy way of measuring the depth of the foam. Some pro’s use a metal rod poker, like a metal coat hanger diameter. You will want 2” minimum. How many square feet do you have to do? If it is a small space that you can get done in 3-4 Froth Pak boxes, then you will come out ahead of what my spray foam contractors minimum price is to show up and do the job.
you keep checking the temperature but what are you going to do if it starts getting too hot?
If it gets hot enough to start a fire, I had a fire extinguisher to put a fire out. That is what I was advised to have on hand by my spray foam contractor friend.
Do the empty tanks end up in the Landfill?
Unfortunately, the tanks are not recyclable. I wish they were, as most of my home trash gets recycled.
I couldn't tell if the floor was covered with plastic or not. I don't think so. Was it difficult to get the product off the floor?
The floor had old plush carpet on it, and the carpet was coming up after the spray foam install. I used it as flooring protection. Normally you would want to apply some flooring protection like plastic. Open cell foam (soft and fluffy) is easier to remove overspray, but closed cell foam (dense/firm/hard) is not as easy to remove. Better to spend 5 minutes rolling out a piece of plastic along a wall, and taping it down in a few spots than to spend time being unsure about getting product off of a floor. Fortunately, the Froth Pak wasn’t a really messy product due to the pressure in the tank, unlike other spray foam product videos I have watched.
Many years ago, I had a spray foam contractor spray closed cell foam into the stud cavities of a wine cellar, and he got closed cell foam on top of each stud in about a 10’ x 12’ room, and it took me 2 days to remove all the extra foam just so I could put up the Hardie Backer for my brick veneer.
One thing no one really mentioned bout foam is that you better be sure you've got everything you want on the wall, cable computer and power done, cause there's no fishing wire after it's done. For the extra 5$ I think I'd a put 2 recepticles
I have a receptacle on each side wall at the corner and one receptacle under the window, as I would imagine where furniture could be. Re-wired the great whole room, lots of extra lighting and switches. Modernize the house. Helps to have a plan and think ahead.
There is lots of steps in building a house or remodeling. For the sake of being brief in a video, we can’t tell everyone all the things to think about prior to installing insulation. You kind of have to know the order of things, or study the process.
How do you dispose of the containers once they are empty?
I have tried taking various chemicals to a local hazmat center, but they turned me away because I was a contractor. Seems totally wrong, but they haven’t left me much of a choice, but to just use up a much chemical as possible, and then just dispose of as normal trash. It’s like a governmental disposal problem, that I have no control of.
Bring it back to Lowes and let our hazmat people take it
Will Lowes take back the empty containers? Is that an official Lowe’s policy, practice, or procedure?
I checked out one of the professional rigs when considering doing this. Looked in a professionals trailer. The key seams to be the heater for their 2 chemicals. So, since this is a non heated mix, maybe preheat the jugs in a out door tub of some sorts, like right to the 110 degree... Anyway good effort man.
For a professional spray foam trailer mounted rig, there is a heater in there. One thing though…. They have a preheater because the trailer experiences a variation in environmental temperatures. The 55 gallon container product may need it.
For the Froth Pak 200, if you have your home at 70 -72 degrees and allow the product to sit to acclimate a couple days like I did, then you should get the results I got. I’d ask myself where was the product stored before it got to you. Did the product get mailed to you, therefore outside? (No idea where it was stored before) OR Did you buy the product at Home Depot or Lowe’s where you know the temperature of where it was stored was somewhere around 70-80 degrees inside their store, so it’s already warmed up:
When your done does that kit get recycled or thrown away?
I’d love to recycle the steel containers, but I don’t know of a place that will accept the containers.
Gohan, thanks for the suggestion!
All the temperature concerns make me think you can't install this stuff during the winter(A Chicago winter). Is that true? I want to insulate my detached garage, so I have no residual warmth from the main house to help with this.
My spray foam contractor gave me the warning about the spray foam temperature getting too high, and it may be true, however I didn’t experience anything close to concerning as far as the temperature of the foam.
You may also be referring to the exterior wall temperature. You can use a infrared temperature gun to check the temperature for the wall surface. You can use a space heater to warm the surface until the walls reach an acceptable temperature. And you can use the space heater again to warm the detached garage if you want to work out there.
I’m also working on a shed project video, in which I’ll be installing more of the Froth Pak in that shed. One thing to keep in mind, is the build up of humidity, since there isn’t an air conditioning system. I’ll be installing a temperature sensitive vent at the bottom of a wall, and another vent at the diagonal top of another wall for cross ventilation. You can close this off if you choose to use heating or AC. The whole point is to not have condensation build up, causing mold, since closed cell foam isn’t vapor permeable.
QUESTION How many of those would I need for a mobile home 65 length by 14 width??
65 foot mobile home? 65’ + 14’ + 65’ + 14’ = 158 lineal feet of wall x 8 foot high ceiling = 1264 square feet. If each froth Pak kit covers roughly 172 square feet @ 2” ish thickness = 7.34 kits, than you would need 8 kits at $339 per kit + 8.25% tax, would equal…$2,935.74 after tax.
If you hired a spray foam contractor, it would be cheaper. My spray foam contractors minimum price was $1200 before COVID, and is now $1500. If I remember about right, his closed cell spray foam price was a little over $2 per square foot, so your job might cost you roughly $2,500 with their materials and labor.
…and that is for the walls only. Use roughly $2 per square foot to get you close to what the cost is for materials and labor from a spray foam contractor, let’s say if you want to do the roofline too. Roof line depends on pitch, and with spray foam sealing up the air better, you also have to be aware of other items like combustion air for the water heater, and forced air units, if they are gas units.
@@craftsmanconnection i forgot to tell is under the trailer in the crawl space
65’ x 14’ under the crawl space at 2” to 2-1/2” thickness is 910 square feet. 910 divided by 172 is 5.29 kits or 6 kits, times $339 + tax is $2,201 after tax at 8.25%.
@@craftsmanconnection thank you
I'm confused ... directions on 200 Sealant says .." .. not intended for full coverage " and does not show Class-A fire rating .. ----- 210 insulation shows " Class A rated and " For full coverage "
... is the sealant ( 200 ) fire rated? if not - is that why instructions list not intended for full coverage?
.. does sealant (200) need to be covered by the fire rated insulation ( 210 ) ? What exactly is the difference between 200 210 ?
The Froth Pak 200 is not fire rated. The 210 is fire rated. If you have drywall covering the foam in the walls, you don’t need fire rated foam. If you have it in an exposed foam insulated attic, your city may require a fire rated foam, or an intumescent paint coating.
Looking for a solution to insulate my cargo trailer. The steel suds are only one inch deep. Is it possible to spray this thin or will the thinest application expand to more than 1 inch?
Nomadic Newfies, it is possible to spray this product 1 inch or less. In my video I made 2 passes on the wall to make 2 inches to 2-1/2 inches thick. Just spray a small area first to get a feel for how much product to apply. It might look like you are applying the wet product 1/4” thick, but it will expand. Froth Pak Closed cell foam is a pretty tough product, and I just purchased 2 more boxes at $409 + tax and that will cover about 152 square feet at 1” thick. If you have a 16 foot trailer x 7 feet wide x 80” tall, than you would have 160 sq. ft of walls not counting the ramp and 112 sq. ft. for the roofline of the trailer. The time to apply this might be around an hour or so. Just put a piece of masking tape over each metal bar/post/stud to keep the foam overspray off of the metal, so you can peel the tape off afterwards. Cover your trailer inside light fixture. You won’t have to worry about purchasing and applying adhesive, or weird gaps/seams or having a purple lined trailer, lol! If purchasing 2 froth pack kits at $409 + tax each, and you have 272 square feet of surface area, your cost is $3.00 per square foot + tax. Pros: you can make this the thickness you want, add on to it later, shave it (although not easy to do), adheres well, may spark a conversation with a customer for possible job, and you could film it for TH-cam, and R6 per inch. Cons: Not a smooth surface, and not cheap.
Another alternative is buying some 1” foam board and an adhesive at Home Depot. Each 1” foam board, like the purple one I purchased last week, will cost you $29.00 + tax for each 32 square feet, so you would need at least 5 for the walls and 3-4 for the ceiling, assuming we imagined a perfect world where you didn’t have metal posts in the way, so you know you will want it to look better and not all cut up like a cheap mofo would do. $29 x 10 pieces is obviously $290 + tax, and there would be countless hours cutting the board to fit, adhesive to apply, and probably other issues. The Owens Corning XPS purple 1”board is an R-5 value. XPS is Expanded Poly Styrene. If you go this route, your material cost is $1.25 per square foot with $290 for insulation and $50 for adhesive. Downside: your labor time is higher possibly, and may have a hard time keeping it on the ceiling/ roof if the trailer. Upside: smoother surface. You may be able to find something not purple and hopefully a foil faced product.
If you do decide to film the spray foam work on your trailer, you should get lots of views. The views will slowly grow initially, but as people discover your video, it’ll get a crazy amount of views. This video has shot up dramatically this month to over 21,000 views in just the past 28 days, and over 107,000 views in the past 17 months. That’s around 107 x $5 = $535 and will pay for the spray foam eventually. I’m just about 120 subscribers away from when TH-cam starts paying me for the views.
@@craftsmanconnection thanks!!!!
@@craftsmanconnection sounds like a sound investment.
😎👍🏼 Keep track of your time, so you can help others with the process of doing the same to their own trailers, and help you know what to charge if anyone asks you to do spray foam work for anything else.
My next project in process is a custom built 114 sq. ft tool shed, and I bought the Froth Pak for that project. I’ll film it and disclose my costs (labor time, money cost, etc.)
At today's prices of $395, it's ridiculous how expensive a remodel can get.
I assume you are doing a remodel as a home owner yourself, and not the contractor doing the remodel.
It looks like the Froth-Pak has gone up in price since March 2021 for the one box. Since the minimum price for my spray foam contractor was once $1200, and is now $1500, plus whatever general contractor markup it’s part of a bigger project to be managed, you are still saving considerably, if you have a small quantity of foam type job.
Even as of 2007, I’ve done kitchen remodels that have ranged in price from $20,000 for a small 8’ x 8’ kitchen to $160,000 for something 4 times larger, more extensive, and much nicer materials.
Hopefully the video has answered all of your questions, but if not feel free to ask.
It’s gone up another $100 in a year.
@michaelshelnutt3534 At the Home Depot in Texas, I have seen prices between $369-$429, and it came back down to $369.
How much does it cover from 1 kit if I do 2 in ? Thanks
In the video I mention, via text typed across the screen, how much square footage it covered for me at that 2”-2.5” thickness. Realize that you will have no exact control of thickness. You will spray the foam on with a guesstimated spray pass speed, and the foam will expand to a slightly uncontrollable amount. I do like the Froth-Pak product, as it is closed cell and does not expand crazy like an open cell foam would do.
2” thickness of foam x 12” high x 12” wide is 2 board feet. If I remember correctly, the Froth-Pak kit produced about 177 board feet per Froth-Pak 200 kit. I covered all of this in the video. Thank you for watching! 😎
How much do the cylinders weigh when they are empty? I'd like to use a scale as a fill gauge, but need to know tare weight to do that accurately.
I did not weigh the metal containers empty. You’re welcome to share that info when it is full vs. empty. I think what is important is the yield of the foam in terms of board feet. All of the spray foam contractors I have talked to talk about getting the temperature and mixture correct to produce a properly mixed product, and the yield as how far the product will go at a particular thickness.
@@craftsmanconnection I get that but let's say the containers are 41 pounds when full. If they weigh 9 pounds "empty," then you know you have used half the material when they weigh 25 pounds. If you have less than half of the job done, then you know to spray thinner for the rest of the job.
Hi, yes, I see where you are going with this. I wish I could answer that for you. I kept my empty tanks for over a year until I finally disposed of them. Just missed that opportunity. If I get a chance to buy another tank and plan to completely empty the tanks, I will try to remember to follow back up with a comment.
At another job site I only used a partial tank, and it’s still at that job site mostly full.
@@Rendus4 In addition, would it be just about as accurate if you could just measure the surface in which you sprayed? If one container sprayed 72 square feet around 2” - 2.5” thick, and I’m pretty sure each container probably doesn’t do exactly the same amount, than measure the board thickness you sprayed and subtract that from the total board feet I mentioned in the video. Part of the yield has to do with temperature, according to a spray foam contractor friend of mine. Until I weigh the next set of containers, that is about the best I can do for now.
@@craftsmanconnection The weight is absolute and orders of magnitude more accurate. Way too many variables in board feet, like thickness, how much air got trapped, temperature, expansion, etc.
Why not make the square and fill it in? That's how I saw it done at a site
Why not make a square? Do you mean make a framed sample square?
@@craftsmanconnection go up, across, down, across then fill the gap in the middle for each frame space.. it would save spay and much faster
@@DanLemire Oh you mean picture frame the stud bay with spray foam. Yes, I have seen that from the Spray Jones channel. I shot the video for my video about a year ago and was the first time I have shot spray foam myself. Also I have watched a spray foam contractor friend of mine shoot spray foam many times and he doesn’t do picture framing of the foam. Probably just his preference. I don’t think the spray foam knows in which order it is sprayed for volume sake, but it might help it look better.
why did you use the sealant instead of the insulation one? is the sealant for exterior walls? doesn't really say on their thing
oh I found it on the dupont site and you're supposed to be using the insulation one for what you are doing lol
This is probably the #1 question I get. This “Sealant” kit is an insulation kit. The box is poorly labeled. On the Dow website for the Froth Pak product, 2nd paragraph, their website says “ …sealant and insulation…” I think the only reason they call it a sealant kit, is the size of the box.
The difference is in the nozzle you choose to use in the box, and the box size like 200, 600, 625, etc.. The 200 is great for a single wall of closed cell foam, or to carry around to fill gaps, holes, etc., but due to it’s size, not very cost effective for doing larger areas such as several walls, or a roofline. As with anything, you typically get a price break on larger quantities.
This is a copy and paste from DuPont.com: Froth-Pak™ Foam Insulation is a two-component professional insulation kit. Froth-Pak™ comes as a professional sealant for air sealing gaps and penetrations up to 4 inches wide or as a spray foam insulation to fill larger cavities providing both insulation and air sealing properties.
@@craftsmanconnection yea the green one is for the cracks/corners and the red one is for the flat surface of the board. (of course both do insulate though) the red one is also is the only one that even has an R value on the box, weirdly.
The Froth Pak 200 in the green box is not fire rated. (See more below)
The Froth Pak 210 in the red box is fire rated.
When the spray foam is exposed in areas that are required to have a fire rating, traditionally my spray foam contractor would mention applying an intumescent paint coating to meet the fire rating requirements.
All spray foam has an R-value. Even wood and concrete has an R-value, even as low as it is, even though it isn’t advertised on the product. Wood has an R-value of about R-1 per inch. Hopefully Froth Pak gets their product packaging straightened out.
What do you do with the bottles when you’re done?
If the containers are completely empty, than they can be recycled.
As an example, I talked with my spray foam contractor, and he said when they have 55 gallon drums of chemicals, the recycling plant will take the drums, if there is 1 inch or less of chemicals inside. The drums have pumps and things that screw down and only reach so far down into the 55 gallon drum.
The video was nice great job ..but I think the price is to high for the amount of wall space u doing without the cost of the added essentials that will be needed..
@OscarPerez-uq7zt I’m not sure of the exact retail cost should be, but if the Froth Pak was more around $150-$175, they would sell a whole lot more of them. I’m imagining comparing what I might get out of spray foam cans vs. a bigger container. Maybe some day I could do a test. “How many spray foam cans would it take to get the same R-value of foam?” Of most spray foam cans are open cell in nature, and Froth Pak is closed cell foam, which is about twice the R-value.
Is it cheaper to do it yoirself than hire a company?
For my spray foam contractor, his minimum cost for a job was $1,250, and went up to $1,500, and then went up again to $1,750. So the real question is how much spray foam do you have to do? You’ll need to first measure the square footage of the wall, and then multiply it by the number of inches in thickness to get the board feet. Example: 100 square feet x 2” thick closed cell foam is 200 board feet. In my video I had somewhere around 77 square feet, times a 2” to 2-1/2” thickness, which means I got around 154-192.5 board feet out of a Froth-Pak 200 kit. Keep this in mind when purchasing material.
Froth-Pak 200 currently cost around $389 per kit, so after tax, it cost around $421, depending on your sales tax rate. If you buy 4 kits for a total of $1,684, that is probably the limit for when it’s worth hiring a spray foam contractor, who might have a minimum of $1,750.
When you do it, you can get it as thick as you like, and 2” should be the minimum. You can also get it done at your convenience, and as your project allows if not 100% ready for a contractor. Don’t forget to use a respirator, and cross ventilation so you’re not inhaling chemicals that are very bad for your lungs.
Any dealerships in South Africa
I would not know if there are any dealerships in South Africa, as I am in the United States.
So the foam might reach 450* ??
Ray, I’ve been told by a spray foam contractor friend that fire/ignition is possible if applying too much foam in one pass. So they spray a little foam and let it cool a bit before going over it again to achieve a thicker layer.
What would you have done if the temperature was too high?
For the Froth Pak, if the temperature was too high, and the foam combusted into flames, I had a fire extinguisher on hand to put out any flames, by the advice of my spray foam contractor.
@@craftsmanconnection thank you.
@@craftsmanconnection Appreciate it.
Bottom line was the cost for all that a better value than using traditional fiberglass insulation???
The air sealing qualities of spray foam are far superior to transitional fiberglass. There are no air voids due to anyone’s ability to measure, shape of void, or other obstacles in the walls such as wires, outlet boxes, pipes, etc. Froth Pak is a closed cell foam which has approximately twice the R-value than fiberglass per inch of material. The short term material costs are higher, but the longer term heat loss (during cold months) and air loss through air exchanges is less. Also try caulking your bottom wall plate to the subfloor (concrete or wood), if accessible.
Study ACH which is Air Changes per Hour. Passive house standards are 0.6 ACH 50. That’s 0.6 Air Changes per hour, at 50 bars (not PSI) of pressure created by wind force. An example of this can be seen by checking out videos of blower door tests, to see how air tight some houses are. Essentially all of your money spent on heat and AC is leaving through holes, gaps, and voids in your house. I can see some if this in my clients houses when I do FLIR imaging camera shots.
The cost of spray foam will get cheaper as you buy a larger spray foam kit. Once you get pass about 3-4 kits, you are better off hiring a spray foam contractor, which will bring that down to roughly $2.00 per square foot at 2” thick for closed cell or $1 per square foot per inch of foam, and get the labor included.
@@craftsmanconnection thanks for they info and the reply.
Does this kit insulate, or is it just a sealant?
Hi Alexis, the Froth-Pak is a insulation and an air sealant. It’s closed cell spray foam, which is similar to a foam cooler. It’s water proof.
According to froth Pak the 200 sealant isn't actually meant for insulating rooms. It's meant for sealing. If you want insulation it's the froth pak 650 insulation
The Froth Pak 200 and the Froth Pak 650 is the same product, just a different size package. Clearly nobody would insulate a whole house or a wall with a single 16oz can of spray foam type thing, and that is meant to seal small holes. However, the froth Pak will stick to a wall in large quantities, unlike the type of foam that is in the small spray cans. If anyone tries to use a small spray can of foam in a large quantity like you would find in a 16” wide stud bay, the foam will just fall off the wall.
@@craftsmanconnection interesting. I saw them replying to some questions about if it's insulation. Maybe 5th get want to sell the bigger stuff
Highly Rated Outdoors, I searched for Froth Pak 200, and went to the DuPont website link. if you go to DuPont.com for Froth Pak 200, and scroll down to the second paragraph, it’ll talk about small gaps and penetrations up to 4”, and then it says “or as a spray foam insulation to fill larger cavities providing both insulation and air sealing properties.”
Froth Pak does probably want to sell the bigger package, and probably for a legitimate reason. In my video, you’ll see that the Froth Pak 200 only covered about 77 Sq. Ft., at 2” to 2-1/2” thick, and that would not be ideal to seal/insulate a small bedroom, and therefore need a larger sized unit. However in my case in was the perfect sized unit for what I was doing. When I go to insulate my new larger kitchen, I will be buying the larger Froth Pak 650 unit, since there is about 3 times the length of walls.
@@craftsmanconnection forsure.
The singing at the end 🤣🤣🤣
(Taking a bow) thank you, thank you. What modified song should be the next big hit?
Back listening to the "Spray Foam" song.
Happy you are enjoying my spray foam rendition of the other song, “…up all night to get lucky”
Yeah it’s good I want to record it.
Yeah it’s good I want to record it.
Yeah it’s good I want to record it.
Yeah it’s good I want to record it.
craftsman connection ... thanks for the reply ... after a very long wait , Dupont informed me that these packs will not be adequate ( partial ) as a vapor barrier .. need the professional " high pressure " installation for vapor barrier . ( glad I didn't buy more ).
My spray foam contractor has told me many times that you’ll need at least 1” of closed cell foam to have a vapor barrier. So, I would and do doubt what DuPont rep is saying. Maybe try calling a few spray foam companies to get their take on Froth Pak. Wouldn’t doubt they’ll try to push whatever product they use, but worth a shot.
I looked at the DuPont website for the perm rating on Froth Pak, and all it says is….@ 1” thickness, @ 2” thickness. What the average person wouldn’t see from looking at this product info is the missing values or numbers in front of # @---thickness, so it would appear that it doesn’t serve as or rated as a vapor barrier. Now on other closed cell foam products, they do have vapor/ moisture ratings. Common sense would lead me to believe that if it is a 2lb per square foot closed cell foam, then it should be able to retard vapor/ water. Now I’m wondering if I can make a video on proving or disproving this? Got any creative testing ideas?
Vapor Barrier VS Vapor Retarder:
According to the Building Science Corporation, “A vapor barrier is defined as a layer with a permeance rating of 0.1 perm or less.”
A vapor retarder is 1 perm or less.
From DuPont.com:
For Froth-Pak™ Sealant the LTTR value (Long term thermal resistance)
measurement at 1 inch thick is 5.3 sprayed to Phs thier ine Lif value
(Long term thermal resistance)
measurement at 2 inch thick is 5.5 f2•h•°F/Btu (R value) per inch which is
R11.0 at 2 inches thick.
For Froth-Pak™ Insulation (Aged 180 days @ 75°F):
Thickness (inches)
1.0"
2.0"
R-Value (ASTM C518, F.ft2.h/Btu)
6.0 (when sprayed at 1 inch
thick)
12.2 (R5.6/inch when sprayed at 2” thick)
Small correction: Way off to the side of the spec sheet I found a rating. For the Froth Pak, The perm rating is 5.4 at 1” thick, and 3.1 at 2” thick. So if you know that a Vapor Barrier (blocking vapor) is considered at 0.1 perm or less, and Vapor Retarder (slowing down vapor) is at 1 perm or less, then by seeing a spec of 3.1 perm and 5.4 perm, the Froth Pak is not a Vapor retarder or vapor barrier. Thanks for making me do my homework. 😄
Hey, I know that guy :)
😄 It was a pleasure meeting you too and exciting to see another TH-camrs setup!!!
Is it rain resistant?
The Froth Pak is a closed cell foam and it is water tight/ water proof, but it’s meant to be behind or under another layer of sunlight protection, otherwise the material will degrade just like anything else exposed to the sun and weather.
@@craftsmanconnection thanks a lot!
Cost seems a little high for just a couple cubic feet of coverage
The key to saving money is to know when your job is small enough.that you should do-it-yourself (DIY) to save money or to hire a professional to do the work for you
The Froth Pak 200 is 200 board feet (1 board foot is 12” x 12” x 1”). 200 board feet is 16.66 cu. ft. of foam, but when you buy the larger Froth Pak kit, the Froth Pak 620, the cost goes down significantly. You get a volume discount.
If you hire a spray foam contractor for a minimum size job, the minimum cost is around $1,500. For closed cell foam, the cost is around $1 per board foot or $2 per square foot of 2” thickness of spray foam, or $12 per cubic foot. $12 x 16.66 cu. ft. = $200. So the cost of the Froth Pak is double compared to a spray foam contractor.
For the product alone in March 2021 was $349-$369. These days, late 2022, the product cost has gone up to $409-$429 per kit, but you saved around $900 if you have a small job. My spray foam contractor cost was $1,200 years ago and has gone up to $1,500. The product isn’t cheap, but you will be happy with the results compared to other brands I have seen videos of. Good luck with whatever decision you make.
.
Isn't this the wrong kit for this application? They sell two different Spray Foam kits... This kit is the "Sealant" kit (Green Box): For gaps, cracks and penetrations up to 4" wide. The "Insulation" kit (Red Box) is for in wall insulation? They appear to have the same R value though.. Are these truly different products?
No, this is the kit that does insulation as well as a sealant kit. If you look on the second paragraph of the DuPont website, which is the manufacture of Froth Pak 200, you will see that it is insulation and sealant.
Unfortunately, DuPont has done a bad job labeling the box, but is correctly described on their website. It’s like seeing a Great Stuff spray can that says Gap & Crack Filler, but is still spray foam insulation. It’s just a smaller sized package.
How long do you need to wait between coats?
I gave it a few minutes. I checked the temperature with the heat gun after applying to compare the freshly applied coat and then went back down to normal room temperature fairly quickly.
And by heat gun, I really meant the temperature gun. It’s an IR (infrared) temperature gun/ thermometer.
@@craftsmanconnection okay right on I'm going to pick up one of those laser temperature readers. The part I don't really understand is where you shouldn't spray more than 2 inches or whatever it was. Is that 2 inches of wet foam? Or is that 2 inch once it's expanded? And if so how do I know how thick it's going to be until it's expanded?
@@craftsmanconnection do I try to adjust my rate of speed while spraying to try to let each pass build up to a set thickness of wet foam or how does that work?
That is 2” of foam once it is expanded. When you spray on the foam, it’ll look like you are spraying on 1/4” worth of foam. Very thin, and it’ll expand roughly 1-1/2” is my guess. The best thing to do is to test an area and get a feel for how thick to apply the wet coat. Keep in mind that the wet foam will harden in the spray nozzle in about 30 seconds or less, so you will want to have all of your work area ready to spray, and don’t dilly dally too long, otherwise you’ll need to change out for a new spray tip.
What is the R value at 2" ?
The R-Value of the Froth Pak at 2” thickness is R-12.2 after 75 days according to the company website.
For Froth-Pak™ Sealant the LTTR value (Long term thermal resistance) measurement at 1 inch thick is 5.3 ft²•h•°F/Btu (R value) per inch. When sprayed to 2 inches thick the LTTR value (Long term thermal resistance) measurement at 2 inch thick is 5.5 ft²•h•°F/Btu (R value) per inch which is R11.0 at 2 inches thick.
For Froth-Pak™ Insulation (Aged 180 days @ 75°F):
Thickness (inches)
R-Value (ASTM C518, F.ft2.h/Btu)
1.0" = R- value 6.0 (when sprayed at 1 inch thick)
2.0" R-value 12.2 (R5.6/inch when sprayed at 2 inches)
@@craftsmanconnection Hey thank you a bunch for getting back at me with the answer so quickly. This seems like the best solution for my houseboat!
You’re welcome, and closed cell foam is water proof. Great insulation, and hopefully you don’t need this, but it’ll float. 😄
I’ll be making another Froth-Pak video soon for a 114 sq. ft. shed project. How to use spray foam in a non-air conditioned space, showing additional requirements for ventilation to reduce build up of humidity. Your house boat is not air conditioned all of the time, since you probably don’t use it all of the time. Subscribe 🛎 to be notified when that video gets uploaded to TH-cam. Happy boating!
@@craftsmanconnection lol
it didn't demonstrate what should do when temparature was actually too high...
The temperatures didn’t get too high to be able to demonstrate putting out a fire, but I did mention having a fire extinguisher on hand just in case.
Isn’t this the wrong kit for insulating? The sealant kit has very little R value in comparison to the insulation version. At least that is how they advertise the difference between the two
Incorrect. If you go to the Dow Froth Pak 200 Website, the website says sealant and insulation in the second paragraph for this product. I extensively commented on this with another recent comment. Froth Pak is a closed cell foam that has approximately twice the R-value as open cell foam. I’ll agree the labeling on the box is disappointing, but if you go to their official website, like I have, then you’ll see the correct info.
The following is from the DuPont website: in the first Paragraph when I searched for “Froth Pak 200”.
“Froth-Pak™ Foam Insulation is a two-component professional insulation kit. Froth-Pak™ comes as a professional sealant for air sealing gaps and penetrations up to 4 inches wide or as a spray foam insulation to fill larger cavities providing both insulation and air sealing properties. The Class-A rating (flame spread of 25 or less) of Froth-Pak™ Foam Insulation allows its use in a wide range of interior and exterior industrial, commercial, institutional and residential settings.”
R-Value?
R-5.3 per inch of thickness. So 2” thickness is R-10.6, a 2.5” thickness equals R-13.2
For what you get for the dollar, your better off using foam board.
I used the pink Owens Corning foam board and a Great Stuff pro spray foam gun to seal the gaps. Leave 1/4" gap and fill with the spray foam. Did a much better job for the dollar.
This stuff is VERY expensive for what you get and a big mess to work with.
Difficult to apply if you don't have experience with it.
Hi Mark, I’ve done some small repair areas, like for 1 stud bay, and yes it would not be worth the cost of a whole kit, but will take more labor time. One thing you may not be factoring in is the value of your time, or the ability to tightly fit around other obstacles, like wiring, piping, etc.
This kit is designed more for small projects and repairs of existing spray foam walls. Once you get above 3 Froth Pak kits, now your getting into the zone of what it would cost for you to just hire a professional spray foam contractor. Froth Pak is a closed cell spray foam, but there will be times and places when you want open cell foam, in which case there is not a spray kit that I’m aware of, or other open cell foam products at your home improvement store.
Very difficult to fit foam board around wires and pipes and in small gaps.
@@percyfaith11 Maybe if you are looking for an absolute perfect fit. No need, that's what the great stuff is for.
@@Marvinfj32 True and I hear what you're saying but there are some places just too restricted to fit foam panels and spray foam would be ideal, except it comes in large quantities.
@@percyfaith11 True, there are always those "special" spots to slow your day down. Then there is the old reliable method I use. Stuff fiberglass around the odd places. We didn't have the spray foam when I started out in the trades. Ok I gave away my age some. :)
Why is your hood off....PROTECTION BUD!!!!!!
11:50 to see it applied
Yup! 😅 There is a time code / timeline description along the bottom of the video.
@@craftsmanconnection ya but they'll see comment first
I had no idea spray foam was/is so EXPENSIVE.
I thought of doing this in my home after seeing it done on THIS OLD HOUSE... far more expensive than the glass fiber insulation.
Also the equipment needed to protect oneself from the foam was expensive too... 200 dollars for a face mask???.. I mean come on. Plus the suit and plastic drop cloth for the windows/doors etc.
The total for all of this was probably 800 to 1000 dollars and that is just one wall in one room. What would be the final cost of all four walls and the ceiling?... Christ!!!!
Samson, the cost for these small kits is more than what it would cost per board foot for a spray foam contractor to come in and do a larger project. The cost of the Froth Pak 200 is now $409 - $429 at Lowe’s and Home Depot respectively.
If you look into the Froth Pak 620, the cost per board foot goes down. These kits are great for doing 1 wall or one room and cheaper than hiring a spray foam contractor.
As the project size increases, it’s more beneficial in terms of product cost and having a contractor come out to do the job. Example: It wouldn’t be a very good idea to buy a $40,000 car ($550 monthly payment) to drive 1 mile a day, but makes more sense as you need to drive to work 30 miles or more a day. Since this isn’t the only time I’ll be spraying a wall or two at my house or a clients job, a $200 mask is somewhat expensive, but will make more sense over time.
In addition to my last reply, typically a room inside a house has only 1-2 exterior walls, so the cost can be around $800-$1,000 for 1 room, if you do it yourself. The advantage is not paying a spray foam contractor their $1,500 minimum charge, so you save some money there.
I’ll be filming another Froth Pak 200 spray foam video for my shed project, and that will video will cover all 4 walls, and maybe the roofline too. Of course, I’ll cover all the time and expenses to help viewers make an educated decision on their purchase decisions.
Hi more singing please thanks.
I’ll take that in consideration when the mood strikes.
R value???
For Froth-Pak™ Sealant the LTTR value (Long term thermal resistance) measurement at 1 inch thick is 5.3 ft²•h•°F/Btu (R value) per inch. When sprayed to 2 inches thick the LTTR value (Long term thermal resistance) measurement at 2 inch thick is 5.5 ft²•h•°F/Btu (R value) per inch which is R11.0 at 2 inches thick.
For Froth-Pak™ Insulation (Aged 180 days @ 75°F):
Thickness (inches)
R-Value (ASTM C518, F.ft2.h/Btu)
1.0" thick = R 6.0 (when sprayed at 1 inch thick)
2.0" thick = R 12.2 (R5.6/inch when sprayed at 2 inches)
So if you spray 2” thickness, you’ll have R 12.2, and if you have 2-1/2”. It’ll be approximately R-15.2
@@craftsmanconnection Thanks! I'm gonna be redoing the upper insulation in my 1 1/2 story house...gotta leave a vent gap and then insulate , so this helps me figure out how best to do this.
Do you have HVAC equipment in the attic? If you do, and it’s gas unit, then you need to have a duct through the roof or somewhere to supply combustion air.
If you have an all electric powered system, then you won’t need combustion air.
At my house, I have my entire roofline spray foamed with no gaps at the eaves or ridge, and no equipment in the attic. My HVAC furnace is in a hall closet with a fresh air combustion duct coming from the roofing area to the outside coming down with 12” of the bottom of the closet and within 12” of the top of the closet for combustion air. Not only does Dow sell the Froth Pak 200 for small jobs, but they also sell a Froth Pak 650 for medium jobs. If you’re doing your whole roofline, buy the larger kit or multiple kits and it’ll bring down the cost per square foot. Good luck with your project.
In addition, don’t forget to use the proper respirator and filters, and have a source of airflow into the attic. Don’t even think about using a regular dust mask. You wouldn’t want the chemicals to get into your lungs and crystalize. Try to do this job on a day where the outside temp is about 70 degrees. When the outside air is 93 degrees, the attic temperature can be around 125 deg. F to 130 degrees F. Good luck with your project.
Can you add this song to Spotify? 😂😂
I just might have to!!! 🤔😂
Do you know how to add songs to Spotify?
Enough for half a wall. WOW!!!! Im so under impressed.
It’s enough for a whole wall…..you just need a smaller wall to be a whole wall! 😅
Froth Pak makes the Froth Pak 620 and Lowe’s sell it online for $532.80, which will bring down the cost per board foot.
I doubt those are latex gloves
Nitrile gloves
You put on all that PPE but opted to leave your head and neck exposed😳
The things we do for our viewers and video making 😅 Fortunately, their was no overhead spraying involved necessitating the protection from above.
Great video, but put your hood up before you start 😃
I know “dad” 😉😅, I forgot. Good thing I wasn’t spraying overhead.
I purchased the Froth Pak 12sq foot kit and it was garbage.
Froth Pak 12 sq. ft. Kit? I think I might have seen a really small kit before for touch ups, but the Froth Pak 200 was excellent.
The Froth Pak 12 board foot kit is $102.79 on Amazon today. That’s a lot to pay for 12 sq. ft. at 1” thickness, when you can get a Froth Pak 200 for $369 or so, and get about 155-170 sq. ft. at 1” thickness which will end up being less than 1/10th the cost per board foot. 12 sq. ft, would be relatively equivalent to (1) 14-1/2” x 96” stud cavity at 1” thickness. I don’t know if you just didn’t like the product, or what you ended up paying for the product you got for the cost. Most of your cost was probably packaging, shipping, etc.
@@craftsmanconnection So just to clarify I purchased two of the small kits, they were 79.99 Canadian each. The 200 sq foot kit was $440. I only needed to do one rim joist as it was in a hard to reach area and the building control asked me to seal it with a spray foam kit., the $440 kit was way too much for what I needed to do so I got the two small kits two be sure I had enough.
Well I followed the setup instructions and they both performed the same, crap. Very little flow rate, it was a bunch of splatter then runny goo with very little pressure.
Called the manufacturer of Froth Pak and they said to go to the place where I bought it and get a refund, they just don't care about there customers. I'm sure the big kit performs better but the small spray cans are junk.
As far as the small spray cans, like Great Stuff, the foam won’t stick to the wall surface or studs good enough to do anything like spray foam will. Great Stuff will just fall off the wall, because it doesn’t expand and cure fast enough.
As far as your Froth Pak 12 board foot kit, have you checked the date on the packages (if any date)? Maybe they were expired? Did you agitate like shaking a spray can for the recommended 5 min, like in the case of the Froth Pak 200 in my video? Any signs that someone had used the kit already and maybe returned a partially used kit? Curious.
I used the 12 in my attic to do some air sealing along the top plates. it worked okay for that but the pressure was too low from start to end
I piece of cardboard on floor would be nice
A piece of cardboard on my floor would be nice? Did you notice the ceiling drywall is also missing? Did you see that there is old carpet? Did you notice the big black stain from some old gym equipment mat on the old carpet? Do you know what all the future plans are for this project? Well, I’m glad you asked. I’ll put up all new sheet rock, and all new flooring, base boards, after the spray foam insulation. Of course the whole house is being remodeled. Spray foam mist on carpet that is no longer there is of no concern. The carpet was protecting the concrete subfloors for the new tile flooring. (Taking a bow) thank you, thank you! 😄
You got some in your hair
Are you sure? I don’t remember having any spray foam in my hair. I was only spraying foam in front of me, not above me. Could have been a reflection of my blonde hair and the lighting.🤷🏼♂️
@@craftsmanconnection I was just giving you a hard time. You would have had to cut it out
Use the fifth element, duct tape, to seal the gloves!
If this project was overhead spraying of foam, I might have considered that.
Few things to note here:
1. The supplier recommends a distance of 6 - 18" from the hose to the surface being applied.
2. The intended purpose of this foam is to seal airflow. You are using it as insulation, there is no airflow between your studs and outer wall... hopefully.
3. The supplier recommends changing the nozzle after pausing spraying for 20 - 30 seconds and to not spray over foam that is curing, which takes at least 5 minutes. Patience young one.
I appreciate the presentation of what not to do, this was very entertaining to watch. Cheers.
2. This is a sealant and insulation kit. I have commented on this before, and it’s on the Froth Pak website for evidence. The reason they label it on the box as a sealant kit, is because of the quantity of square footage, but if you read the website, it also says for insulation.
3. The manufacturer, not supplier, recommends changing the tip after so many seconds of not spraying, meaning idle use, and the reason for that is because the foam will cure and harden in the tip of the foam is allowed to sit there. This is not true if you continue to spray foam without any long pauses.
I’m happy you enjoyed the video. I stayed “Up all night to spray foam!”😁🎶
Great video I can't hear a damn word you're saying over the sprayer
Thanks. Sorry you couldn’t hear it so well in this 2021 video. I’m learning what audio settings (dB) to set the back ground job site audio (-20dB), back ground music (-30dB) and voice over (-6 to -12 dB) volumes at. In newer videos on my channel, I think the audio is much better. It’s also funny how, the volume through a controllable source like a headset, turns out obviously different than when I play it back in a TV after uploading the video.
put them cylinders in a milk crate.
Got a milk crate handy? 2 Milk crates for 2 milk Jugs? Normally, the containers are on a hard surface like a concrete slab, or plywood subfloor.
Can't see much just him working.
When I film the next froth Peck video, I will do a better job at getting close-up shots of myself, now that I have a camera monitor and an Apple Watch that can monitor another camera.
Remember- closed cell foam is Isolation not insulation. It is better at separating temperatures where Insulation is a battery for heat. Ideally in cold climates you fkash and batt, 1" of foam the fill with fiberglass. Going the full 3-3.5" is for a hot climate AC only.
The nature of closed cell foam with the skin being a vapor barrier may be the moisture isolation part, but it is still thermal insulation. That is why they call it closed cell spray foam insulation. Spray Foam is not a battery. A battery stores energy for an extended period of time, like your car battery. Spray Foam Insulation slows down the transfer of energy (heat) for a short period of time. You can flash and batt all you like. Different people prefer different methods of insulation and achieving certain ACH Levels (Air Changes per Hour).
You said it’s better at separating temperatures. Doesn’t Insulation separate temperatures? Closed cell foam is used in coolers like Yeti. Is a Yeti cooler a battery for cold? 😄 No. A battery is a storage cell for energy. I live in a warm/hot climate generally speaking, although last cold season got down to -2F last February in Texas, and this summer was over 112F.
Just get the pros to do it
That would be a good idea if you have more than 1-2 walls.
@@craftsmanconnection the cost of the froth pack is a minimum charge for most company’s
My spray foam contractor used to have a minimum of $1200, but has since this year upped his minimum company price to $1500.
5 minutes of talking about the mask he bought.. jump to the 7 minute mark unless you don't know how to put on a mask and tyvec suit
Most people don’t even know what kind of mask to use, how to use it, or even that it is very important to wear the mask to save serious effects to their lungs.
The most unnatural material in the most natural environment enough said.
So are concrete, asphalt, steel, aluminum, pressure treated wood, PVC trim, paint, fiberglass shower enclosures, galvanized nails, stainless steel...
Spray foam is a fire hazard
Rip off
If you buy a larger kit, like the 600 or 620, the price goes down per board foot.
Fast forward 8 minutes for anything useful
Yeah, who needs safety anyways?😂